quinquina/chinato: bark to the future-presentation
TRANSCRIPT
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Henri Laurent Desrousseaux, 1903, oil on canvas 90x125, Caves Byrrh,Thuir
QUINQUINA: BARK TO THE FUTURETales of the Cocktail 2015
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Sponsors
Please thank our sponsors
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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OUR CAPS TODAY
Please thank CAPS
Antonio ParlapianoJerry Thomas Project, Rome
Rebecca MondayCurio at Harvest, Columbus
Steven SantillanThe Esquire Tavern, San Antonio
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Your Presenters
Jordan SilbertQ Drinks
Jean-Pierre CointreauRenaud Cointreau Group
Eric SeedHaus Alpenz
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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OVERVIEW
– Goals of this seminar
– Define Quinquina/Quinato/Quinado/Chinato
– The history of Quinine and Tonic
– Origins, evolution and decline of Quinquina
– Quinquina in context of WWII and post-war drinks business
– A place in the future
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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GOALS OF THE SEMINAR
Your Takeaways
– Quinine is a unique bittering agent
– Quinquina/Chinato has a unique profile as Aperitif WINE
– Much of its evolution and near demise had little to do with taste or strength of Brand
– The trends shaping its future have little to do with its past
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Define Quinquina: this is WINE
– These are AROMATIZED and FORTIFIED Wines
• Aromatized: infused with herbs, fruits and/or spices
• Fortified: addition of alcohol, – Either to fix must to wine levels, and/or– From infusion of herbs and spices, and/or– Provide some stability until bottled (1 – 2 weeks once opened)
– Under US and EU law, these are all WINE• These are NOT spirits, NOT spirit-like• By US and European Union law, minimum 75% wine content
– Aromatized Wines held apart from Fortified & Other Oxidized Wines• Does not include Madeira, Sherry, Maury, Rivesaltes, Rancio, etc.,.
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Define Quinquina: its own category of aromatized wine
– Quinquina (or, quinine wines) are their own category– Quinquina is NOT a type of vermouth
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Define Quinquina: A Style of Aperitif Wine
Characteristics:
– Quinine focus, wine and/or mistelle based– Wine base historically and today matters
Traditional Application:
– Alone or with soda water– Mix with liqueurs– Some history and today in mixed drinks
• Richness and texture from mistelle base and/or wines
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Define: Italian Chinato
Characteristics:
– Quinine focus, wine based– Wine base historically and today matters
• DOCG Barolo Chinato a subset of the Barolo category– Vermouth Chinato a leading style in 19th century, dead now– Why? Tradition, delicious, and a home for off vintages
Traditional Application:
– Alone (or with dark chocolate)– Vin Brulee– Small history in mixed drinks of 1920s/1930s Italian Futurists– Today in mixed drinks
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Why Quinine?
A history of Quinine and Tonic, with Jordan Silbert
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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History and Production Styles Aperitif Wines
Call from the French Government from 1830’sTo Provide for Colonial Interests
Proved as appealing at home in France
1830: St. Raphael
1837: Amer Picon (ok, a spirit)
1846: Dubonnet
1865: Bonal
1866: Byrrh
1887: Kina Lillet
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall of Quinine Wines
Call from the French Government from 1830’s to Provide for Colonial Interests
– Vigor for soldiers
– Curative for fever
– Better stability in transit and climate
– Appeal to relocating Europeans
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall of Quinine Wines
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall of Quinine Wines
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall
‘takes the national tent to the most far flung colonies’
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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History and Components
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall Lillet 1913
Over time
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall Lillet 1928
Over time
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall Lillet 1946
Over time
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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History and Production Styles Lillet 1954
Over time
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall War and Postwar
– Quinine, forced substitutions• Starting in 1931, Mepacrine (Atabrine), Cloroquine, Mefloquine• Treatments today with Artemisinins
– Postwar loss of French colonies, govt as a customer
– Wartime restrictions on alcohol• Yields to strong postwar interest in French spirits• Golden age of Pastis
– Generational retribution• New generation didn’t want to drink what parents drank
– Evolution of French wine market• Starting in 1930s, progressing 1950’s to now, producers adopting
standards required of AOC (shift away from blending lots)
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Rise and Fall War and Postwar
Insights on Postwar Market evolution with
Jean-Pierre Cointreau of Renuad Cointreau
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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REVIVAL
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Quinquina: Bark to the Future
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Relevance to Today’s F&B Program
Aperitif Service
– Light, low-alcohol offerings– Manageable pour costs– Refreshing– Optimal transition to bottle service with meal
Cocktails
– Rebalance to traditional (and lower alcohol) proportions– Improve net pour costs– Better manage transition to wine service
Other Reasons for Revival…