Anne-Marie Faiola is the author of Soap Crafting and owner of Bramble Berry, a company that sells soapmaking supplies at www.brambleberry.com. Known as The Soap Queen, she has a dedicated blog and a YouTube channel featuring how-to tutorials.

learn to make beautiful, nourishing soaps — it’s fun,

and your skin will thank you! Moisturize with shea butter,

exfoliate with crushed walnut shells, and soothe itchy skin with

oatmeal. More than 30 expertly formulated recipes take advan-

tage of the beneficial properties in many natural ingredients.

PA M P E R YO U R S K I N

Natural IngredientsW I T H

Storeyßwww.storey.com

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ISBN 978-1-61212-533-6

$19.95 USCRAFTS/SOAPMAKING

PURE

FaiolaSOAPM

AKINGßStorey

“ A must-have resource. Perfect for new and advanced soapmakers alike!”­—­Kenna­Cote, Modern Soapmaking

“ This book has everything you need for success. From buttermilk to alkanet root, and from swirls to layers and everything in between, you’ll be making amazing natural soap in no time. A great addition to your soapy library!”

—­Donna­Maria­Coles­Johnson, Founder and CEO, Indie Business Network

EDITED BY Lisa Hiley

ART DIRECTION AND BOOK DESIGN BY Michaela Jebb

INDEXED BY Nancy D. Wood

COVER PHOTOGRAPHY BY © Lara Ferroni (author), Mars Vilaubi (back), and Michaela Jebb (front and spine)

STILL-LIFE PHOTOGRAPHY BY © Tara Donne, WITH PHOTO STYLING BY Raina Kattelson: 1–3, 5–8, 11, 18, 42, 54, 68–70, 78, 82, 86, 100–102, 108, 114, 118, 126, 130, 136, 140, 146–148, 158, 162, 166, 178, 182, 186, 190, 198, 204, 210, 218, 224

HOW-TO PHOTOGRAPHY BY © Lara Ferroni: 15, 16, 21–39, 45–50, 58, 60, 64, 72, 73, 76, 77, 80, 81, 84, 85, 88, 89, 92–94, 98, 99, 104–107, 110–112, 115–117, 120, 121, 124, 125, 128, 129, 132–134, 137–139, 142–145, 150–152, 155, 157, 160, 161, 164, 165, 168–171, 174–176, 179–181, 184, 185, 188, 189, 192–196, 199–203, 206–209, 213–217, 220–223, 226–229, 232–236

ADDITIONAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY Mars Vilaubi: 52, 74, 122, 136, 154, and Michaela Jebb: 90, 96, 172, 230

COVER LETTERING BY © Nicolas Fredrickson

Be sure to read all the instructions thoroughly before undertaking any of the projects in this book and follow all the safety guidelines provided.

© 2016 by Anne-Marie Faiola

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be repro-duced without written permission from the publisher, except by a reviewer who may quote brief passages or reproduce illustrations in a review with appropriate cred-its; nor may any part of this book be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means — electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or other — without written permission from the publisher.

The information in this book is true and complete to the best of our knowledge. All recommendations are made without guarantee on the part of the author or Storey Publishing. The author and publisher disclaim any liability in connection with the use of this information.

Storey books are available for special premium and promotional uses and for customized editions. For fur-ther information, please call 1-800-793-9396.

This is an excerpt from

AVAILABLE JANUARY 2016

Storey Publishing 210 MASS MoCA Way North Adams, MA 01247 www.storey.com

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INTRODUCTION

The Beauty of Pure, Handmade Soap

CHAPTER 5

Using Herbs Other Natural

Additives

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43

T HE USE OF NATURAL INGREDIENTS in body care products, long a

popular commercial trend, continues to increase. Adding herbs

and other natural additives can increase customer demand, label

appeal, and overall aesthetics. Additives such as herbs and flowers, coffee

and tea, nuts, chocolate, oatmeal, silk fibers, and even tobacco can be

added for many different reasons. For starters, many of them have excellent

antioxidant properties, which can help to increase the skin-loving traits

of your bar. Others make for great use as exfoliants. They can also help to

color your soap or add texture.

Before You StartWhen adding natural products to soap, there are a few things to take into consideration:

Will it discolor?While some herbal additives produce beautifully colored soap, most others will eventually turn brown and discolor the final product. Some cause a “halo” effect where the color spreads out from the herb particles in the soap, eventually taking over most of the bar. You’ll want to plan for this when creating your soap design. Or just use those soaps up more quickly!

How scratchy will it be?If you’re using additives as an exfoliant, you’ll want to do some testing to find the correct “scratch factor.” A product that is ground too finely or used in very small amounts will be unnoticeable; using larger chunks or adding too much of it could potentially cause harm. (Nobody wants to lose a layer of skin!)

Is this additive a possible allergen?Additives like nutshells could cause an allergic reaction in some sensitive people. You’ll want to make sure you add a warning to your label

if using any of these. (See Considering Nut Allergies, page 41.)

Should I use the herb itself or make an infusion?When using herbs to color your soap, you’ll need to make an oil infusion to extract as much colorant as possible. To use them as an exfoliant, to add texture, or for aesthetic purposes, adding the actual herb directly at thin trace is fine. (See pages 48–49 for directions on making herbal infusions.)

How long will natural colors last in soap?How long color lasts depends on the ingredient. Natural green colors tend to fade fairly quickly (within a couple of weeks) to brown or gray or even become almost non-existent. Shades of orange and red, such as the tomato color in Layered Tomato Swirl Bars (page 126) will fade, but not as drastically or as quickly as the greens.

Keeping your soap out of direct sunlight can help extend the life of the color. A good alternative to natural colorants is to use nature-identical oxides, which are often called for in this book. They hold their color much better.

fresh ALKANET 5-month AL

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CHAPTER 9

All About Simplicity

R E C I P E S

CHAPTER 8

All about Simplicity

Comfrey & Spirulina

Multicolored Cubes

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Safe Soaping!Wear proper safety gear the whole time.

Work in a well-ventilated space.

No distractions (keep kids and pets away). 71

Comfrey SpirulinaMULTICOLORED CUBES

Makes 9 bars

Spirulina is a dark-green algae that grows in lakes. It is rich in essential fatty acids, such

as Omega-3s, -6s, and -9s, that are great for the skin. Comfrey leaves contain allantoin,

which is said to protect the skin and promote new cell growth. The addition of refreshing

rosemary and peppermint essential oils cools the skin and awakens the mind.

Mold and Special Tools » 9-bar silicone cube mold

» Heating pad

Lye-Water Amounts 5.1 ounces lye (5% superfat)

11.5 ounces distilled water

2 teaspoons sodium lactate (optional)

Oil Amounts 8.5 ounces palm oil (23%)

9.2 ounces coconut oil (25%)

1.9 ounces avocado butter (5%)

11.1 ounces olive oil pure (30%)

0.7 ounce castor oil (2%)

5.6 ounces rice bran oil (15%)

Essential Oil Blend 1.1 ounces rosemary essential oil

0.3 ounce peppermint essential oil, 2nd distill

Colorant and Additive Amounts 1 tablespoon comfrey powder

dispersed into 1 tablespoon rice bran oil

1 teaspoon spirulina powder dispersed into 1 tablespoon rice bran oil

1 teaspoon rose clay dispersed into 1 tablespoon distilled water

1 teaspoon alkanet root pow-der dispersed into 1 table-spoon rice bran oil

Note: This mold creates beautiful bars, but it can be tricky to remove them if sodium lactate is not included.

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Gardener Scrub with Coffee Grounds

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Pale Ale with Cocoa Powder

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Goat Milk Sunset Burst

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