Published by the Long Island Aero Radio Society Volume 20, Issue 01, Jan. 2011

AMA CHARTERED CLUB #454 SINCE 1964

President: Steve Siedlecki 631 654-8753 Vice Pres.: Gerard Pernot 631 289-9823 Secretary: Fred Backhaus 516 315-2306

Treasurer: Nick Miceli 631 289-9138

Board: Andy King 631 399-5828 Board: Tom Tyler 631 475-8856 Board: John Calo 631 289-1093 Field Permits: Nick Miceli 631 289-9138

A Message from the President……… Greetings everyone, I hope you all had a

wonderful holiday season. As I write this there

are about 7 more hours left in 2010. Whew! This

year really flew by. Snow is piled up at the field

and flying is not possible. Building season is

here. This weather should allow all of those air-

plane projects to get started and finished for the

spring.

I would like to thank the outgoing Presi-

dent Jim Milligan for the job well done. Also

thanks to Rick Cascella as board member for all

the work he does on the fun flies and the pur-

chasing of gifts for the year end party. I would

also like to thank all of the current officers and

board members for devoting their time and effort

for the best interest of the club.

The year end party was a success and

everyone went away with full tummies. Food was

plenty. The Chinese auction was the high point of

the evening.

Jim Soque has volunteered to make the

chili for the annual Chili fly. Mark your calendar

January 9th 2011.

I would like to wish everyone and their

families a happy and prosperous New Year .

Be Safe and be well!!!!

See you at the field!

Steve Siedlecki

Calendar of Special LIARS and L.I. Events

LIARS Chili Fly at the field January 9th with a snow date of January 16th 2011

Next Meeting at: Brookhaven Recreation Center, Blue Point, NY January 13th, 2011 8:00 PM

Editor: Gerard Pernot 631 289-9823 gpernot@optonline.com Video Librarian: Roger Bossert 631 589-3667 Field Marshals: Andy King 631 399-5828 Steve Siedlecki 631 654-8753 Guest Observer: Avey Shaw 631 271-0145

The Early Spring Fashion is in!!!

Membership renewal time has arrived!

Current members need to send a copy of the new 2011 AMA card, renewal form, check for $50.00 and a SASE to: Nick Miceli, 450 Waverly Ave, Suite 9, Patchogue, NY 11772.

Don’t forget: Dues should be paid by the end of December but no later than the end of Febru-ary. There is a $10 penalty for late payment….

From our treasurer

If you are still sporting one of the hats on the left ( or no hat at all…), it is time to upgrade to the brand new LIARS hat, on the right!!!!!

The new shirts and the hats will be available for sale at the January meeting

LEVITTOWN FLEA MARKET

SPONSORED BY THE NASSAU FLYERS

SUNDAY, JANUARY 30TH, 2011

LEVITTOWN HALL: LEVITTOWN, NY 11756 9A.M. TO WHEN EVERYONE LEAVES!

This is our 26th year running this event and everyone knows that come the last Sunday in January,

we all look forward to attending this swap meet in order to get ready for the upcoming flying season

and to see old friends. There are 35 tables available which are usually loaded with all kinds of good-

ies that we all need. We will also be selling fully built planes, cars, helicopters and boats from the

stage as usual. There will be a $5.00 flat fee per item that you wish to place on stage.

FREE ADMISSION!

WE’LL BE ASKING FOR DONATIONS AT THE DOOR.

Refreshments will be available from the kitchen.

There will be prizes, raffles and a 50-50 drawing!

For more information contact:

Archie Defendini @ 516.510.7378

For more information go to www.nassauflyersrc.com

Directions to Levittown Hall:

From the SS PKWY: Get on the Wantagh State PKWY, North. Get off at the Old Country Road

exit going East. At the 3rd traffic light turn right onto Levittown Parkway. Go straight for

about one half mile and Levittown Hall will be on your left.

From the Northern State Parkway: Go South on the Wantagh State Parkway and follow the

same route as above.

Levittown Flea Market

In my opinion, the most inexpensive and durable covering material for model aircraft any size you can-

not beat un-shrunk polyester dress lining material. The trade name for one is Polly-glo. Sig sells it under the

name of Koverall. I have devoted this article to demonstrate the ease with which one can cover and the merits

overlooked by not using it. I have developed these techniques over the years and offer them to you for your

discretion. Before I get into the process there are a few unconventional methods I use you might find useful

even if you stick with your current material for covering. I wrap my iron with cloth from bed sheet or pillow

case cloth and I hold it on with a rubber band around the shank. Keep some talcum powder handy. This is to

keep your iron clean and absorb excess glue by dusting it with the stuff. If you get any build up of glue, just

shift to another area on the cloth. I also use Q tips for applying the heat sensitive glue and nitrate dope. They

are discarded after you make your application. I like tinted dope because you can see where you have applied

it. If you can't get it that way add a little colored dope to the clear stuff. This process does not use a great

amount of dope. I personally dislike the fumes but it is the best product for the purpose.

Now let's start covering. The polyester has a grain. Select the grain to run length wise on all open ar-

eas. It matters little over sheeted areas. In preparation before covering on sheeted areas, seal the wood with

dope or W.B. Polly U, and sand smooth. Get a soft dark pencil, I like one called Stabello. You get it at an art

supply store. Now figure out where the covering will go. Draw a line on the plane where you intend to cut the

covering off like around the perimeter of the wing. Keep in mind you will overlap that area. The adhesive you

use is heat sensitive, I use Stix-it, Sig makes it. If you have to thin out Stix-it, Butyrate or Nitrate dope Duracryl

DTL16 thinners by PPG does the job. It is an automotive paint thinner. Now spread the glue with a brush or Q

tip up to the pencil line, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch wide is enough. Make sure you have glue around areas where

screws, landing gear, servo exits etc., will go. Do not put glue on ribs or internal braces, just on the perimeter

of what you want to cover. While this is drying, cut your covering material oversized. Place it on the frame

work overlapping your pencil line and smooth out the wrinkles. You should be able to see your penciled line

through the cloth. Tack the edges while pulling on the material to make it smooth.

Once you have it as best you can, iron where ever you put the glue but not yet in the open areas. That

comes later. Take your brush or Q tip and go over the pencil area with dope. Let dry and with a #11 blade cut

on the pencil line and remove the excess covering material. The doped cloth will cut clean.

Prepare for the overlapped joint. Again draw with your pencil a line where the overlap joint will terminate. Usu-

ally 1/4 inch over the cut edge. Apply the glue up to that line. Be neat. Now as you did before iron on your

covering material with a decent amount of overlap past the line you just drew. The cloth covered iron shoe

and talc helps at this point.

Now comes the tricky part. You do not want to cut through the under covered material, and yet the

pencil line is right there and that's where you will cut. You need single edge blades for this operation. Start at

an edge where you can pick up the cloth against the blade. While holding the blade firmly down on the pencil

line (like tearing wax paper out of the box), lift the cloth against the blade. Move the blade on the line and

keep tearing up against it. Eventually, it becomes a smooth movement. When you finish that operation, Iron

the seam and dope it again.

Polyester, the best covering material for flying model airplanes.

There are times where the overlap is a straight line. In that case, you have the option to dope an edge

(you do this so the cloth does not fray). Immediately after you apply the dope, lift it off the board. If you do

not, it will be there permanently. With a straight edge, knife the cloth on a flat surface. Place the cut edge up

to your line and iron it. I rarely do that because I have the other method down pat and you will too. You did

not shrink the internal areas yet and that is because you want to avoid warpage. With a heat gun or iron

shrink opposite surfaces a little at a time until everything is tight. Now iron the screw hole, cut outs, landing

gear areas, etc. You can cut through these places at this time. Re-iron and dope them. If you want an invisi-

ble seam, dope it and before it dries, dip your finger in water and go over the seam with it. The covering is

complete. You did a fine job but it aint over yet. Now you must prepare the fabric to take paint and fill the

weave.

This process also helps the fabric not to relax and attaches the covering to all the surfaces. Mix

Elmer's white glue with water to a W.B. paint consistency about 2/3 white glue to 1/3 water. Spread over the

entire covering surface with a broad brush moving quickly so as not to have runs under the fabric. If that hap-

pens, use air pressure to disperse the run. Allow to dry. A second coat is necessary over sheeted areas but

you can go over the open areas as well. You can now prime. I prefer latex primer for bathrooms. Zinzer

makes a good product. Mix the primer with talc, lots of it. Add a dash of Floetrol and water. Get it to spray

through your gun. It is amazing how a creamy consistency can be sprayed. Keep mixing so as not to let the

talc settle. Use a hair drier to help speed up this operation. You will find sanding is no problem and if you see

pinholes touch them up with a brush. Sand smooth. You are ready to paint. I like latex house paint. Any color

can be mixed. Remember to add some Floetrol. It can be used for gas powered and electric. Then I top coat

to even out the sheen using W.B. urethane. However, for glo use clear Butyrate dope to top coat. Get it in a

spray can. Any paint must be allowed to cure before fuel gets on it.

Some hints on spraying. You must filter the paint. Don't spray heavily. Use a hair drier between coats.

Build up the intensity of color gradually. Have a paint chip handy to match the intensity. Screw ups correct

easily. Just let it dry. Mask with cheap paper masking tape. Just seal by clear coating the edges. Allow the

paint to dry thoroughly before lifting. If a problem arises, use a hair drier to help remove the tape. Use sticky

back shelf paper to mask curves or designs. Saran wrap is good for masking. Do not use newspaper. I have

been using this method for years and the results are always great. Think about this. If you crash you do not

have to pick up the pieces. The covering is so strong everything stays in it. Actually the plane is its own carry-

ing bag.

Avey Shaw

Polyester, the best covering material for flying model airplanes.

At the field

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LIARS Christmas Party

LIARS Christmas Party

LIARS Christmas Party

by Avey Shaw

I never write about helicopters because I don't know didley about them. I have the Real Flight pro-gram that has them on it. I have tried and cannot master it. Crash and burn every time. I can appreciate and envy those who can successfully fly those machines but for me it looks like I'll have to be content with fixed wing flying. Therefore, the construction of these whirly beasts is completely foreign to me. I hear terms and names of parts unlike anything I can fathom. You guys are a separate but viable entity in model avia-tion. Model airplanes with wings I know about. I have written many articles about them and the people that fly them. Today I was thinking of just that, the types of guys in this hobby. What type are you?

Firstly, we are all good fellows with a common interest in model flying. Some are more proficient than others and strive for perfection. Some are content just to get in the air and there are those in be-tween. Some build scale with exact color matching, all the stitching and rivets, sophisticated engines, all this and more with a cost that can blow your mind. They might enter contests to show their work and win prizes. Then there is the foam profile, good enough to fly and win fun fly contests. In between, runs the gamut of he builds neat and clean or sloppy but functional. Whatever you do, your satisfying yourself making a tool to enjoy the hobby. Beyond the builders we have the assemblers. Some of these guys do a great job with A.R.F.s. They put extra work into them. Not being satisfied with colors, they might repaint and add details. Having the structure completed saves time. This might be the only way they could have the airplane they always wanted. When A.R.F.s were introduced into the hobby, it made a dramatic change. You could enjoy flying without having to know how to build. That was a huge stimulus to the hobby. If you are one of them, welcome. There is a small faction of guys that for the most part do not fly but enjoy being a member of a flying club. They en-joy the comradeship and the subject of airplanes. Their enjoyment is to watch others do what perhaps they themselves cannot do. All are welcome. In closing the last thing I would like to touch on is the willingness of the more informed and proficient to help others. If you are new to the hobby, do not be shy. Ask for help and you shall receive. The news letter is there for you. You can find help at club meetings, at the field and the telephone. Whatever you want to know pertaining to model aviation, the answers can be had. The L.I.A.R.S club is at your disposal.

Avey Shaw

THE ALTITUDE A LIARS Publication

Gerard Pernot Editor 29 Oregon Avenue

Medford, NY 112763-3721

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