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    Contents

    1. Introduction--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3

    2. Background of the Study----------------------------------------------------------------- 4

    2.1. Textile------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5

    2.2. Knitting----------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6

    2.3. Elastomeric Fibre------------------------------------------------------------------ 7

    2.4. Properties of Elastomeric Fiber--------------------------------------------------

    2.5. !istor" of Elastomeric #arn---------------------------------------------------- 12

    2.6. $a% &aterials of Elastomeric #arn------------------------------------------- 14

    2.7. T"pes of Elastomeric #arn----------------------------------------------------- 16

    2.. T'e &an(fact(ring Process----------------------------------------------------- 1

    2.). *+entification of ,pan+ex #arn------------------------------------------------- 24

    2.1. $ecent e/elopments of Elastomeric #arn--------------------------------- 26

    2.11. Test of Elastomeric 0oo+s---------------------------------------------------- 27

    2.12. Pro+(ct of Elastomeric #arn-------------------------------------------------- 2)

    2.13. "cra 0aller"-------------------------------------------------------------------- 31

    3. Experimental------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 32

    3.1. Knitting &ac'ine its ,pecification----------------------------------------- 33

    3.2. Pro+(ction of t'e nitte+ Fabric %it' "cra "arns-------------------------- 34

    3.3. Experimental $es(lts an+ nal"sis-------------------------------------------- 3)

    3.3.1. ales per *nc'---------------------------------------------------------- 4

    3.3.2. o(rses per *nc'------------------------------------------------------- 41

    3.3.3. ,titc' engt'------------------------------------------------------------ 42

    3.3.4. 0,&--------------------------------------------------------------------- 43

    3.3.5. ,'rinage---------------------------------------------------------------- 44

    3.3.6. Extensibilit"------------------------------------------------------------ 4

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 1

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    4. Dicuion of !eult--------------------------------------------------------------------- 5

    4.1. Effect of ales per *nc'-------------------------------------------------------- 5

    4.2. Effect of o(rse per *nc'------------------------------------------------------- 51

    4.3. Effect of ,titc' lengt'----------------------------------------------------------- 52

    4.4. Effect of 0,&-------------------------------------------------------------------- 53

    4.5. Effect of ,'rinage-------------------------------------------------------------- 54

    4.6. Effect of Extensibilit"----------------------------------------------------------- 55

    ". #oncluion--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 56

    $. %ppendix----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 57

    6.1. ist of Table---------------------------------------------------------------------- 57

    6.2. ist of Fig(re--------------------------------------------------------------------- 5

    6.3. ibliograp'"---------------------------------------------------------------------- 5)

    6.4. $eferences------------------------------------------------------------------------ 6

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 2

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    2. Background of the Study:

    ,pan+ex is a s"nt'etic pol"mer. 'emicall": it is ma+e (p of a long-c'ain

    pol"gl"col combine+ %it' a s'ort +iisoc"anate: an+ contains at least 5;

    pol"(ret'ane. *t is an elastomer: %'ic' means it can be stretc'e+ to a certain +egree

    an+ it recoils %'en release+. T'ese fibers are s(perior to r(bber beca(se t'e" are

    stronger: lig'ter: an+ more /ersatile. *n fact: span+ex fibers can be stretc'e+ to

    almost 5; of t'eir lengt'. T'is (ni

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    2.1. Textile:

    lt'o(g' man9s first articles of clot'ing an+ f(rnis'ing %ere probabl" animal

    sin %arps: sometimes stitc'e+ toget'er (sing bone nee+les an+ animal sine%s: 'e

    soon attempte+ to manip(late fibro(s materials into textile fabrics: enco(rage+ b"

    experience gaine+ from interlacing branc'es: lea/es an+ grasses in t'e pro+(ction of

    primiti/e s'elters.

    &igure 1' (hotograph of %ncient )extile )echnology.

    T'e %orl+ Textile9 originates from t'e atin /erb Texere to %ea/e b(t: as

    t'e Textiles *nstit(te9 Terms an+ efinitions G E &clint"re explains: textile %as

    originall" a %o/en fabric: b(t t'e terms textile an+ pl(ral textiles are no% also

    applie+ to fibres: filaments an+ "arn: nat(ral an+ man(fact(re+ an+ most pro+(cts for

    %'ic' t'ese are a principle ra% material. T'is +efinition embraces: for example:

    fibre-base+ pro+(cts in t'e follo%ing categoriesD t'rea+s: cor+s: ropes an+ brai+sD

    %o/en: nitte+ an+ non%o/en fabrics: lace: nets: an+ embroi+er"D 'osier": nit%earan+ ma+e-(p apparelD 'o(se'ol+ textiles: soft f(rnis'ing an+ (p'olster"D carpets an+

    ot'er floor co/eringD tec'nical: in+(strial textiles: incl(+ing geotextiles an+ me+ical

    textile. escripti/e of textile as +efine in one abo/e an+ of t'e ra% materials:

    processes: mac'iner": b(il+ings: craft: tec'nolog": personal (se+ in: an+ t'e

    organi>ations an+ acti/ities connecte+ %it': t'eir man(fact(re.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. "

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    2.2.Knitting:

    T'e term nitting +escribes t'e tec'ni

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    2.".#ro$erties of Elastomeric i!er:

    ,eneral #haracteritic'

    an be stretc'e+ repeate+l" an+ still reco/er to /er" near its original lengt'

    an+ s'ape.

    0enerall": can be stretc'e+ more t'an 5; %it'o(t breaing.

    ,tronger: more +(rable an+ 'ig'er retracti/e force t'an r(bber.

    ig't%eig't: soft: smoot': s(pple.

    *n garments: pro/i+es a combination of comfort an+ fit pre/ents bagging

    an+ sagging.

    !eat-settable - facilitates transforming p(cere+ fabrics into flat fabrics: or

    flat fabrics into permanent ro(n+e+ s'apes.

    "eable.

    $esistant to +eterioration b" bo+" oils: perspiration: lotions or +etergents.

    brasion resistant.

    'en fabrics containing span+ex are se%n: t'e nee+le ca(ses little or no

    +amage from Mnee+le c(ttingN compare+ to t'e ol+er t"pes of elastic materials.

    /ailable in fiber +iameters ranging from 1 +enier to 25 +enier.

    /ailable in clear an+ opaone %'ereas (ret'ane pol"mers

    are relati/el" inert. ot' r(bber an+ span+ex fibers are liel" to contain antioxi+ants?

    t'e span+ex fibers ma" also be stabili>e+ to (ltra /iolet lig't an+ to atmosp'ericcontaminants t'at ca(se +iscoloration. ,pan+ex fibers (se a /ariet" of monomericEFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES.

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    an+ pol"meric 'in+ere+ p'enolic-t"pe antioxi+ants Aers t'at apparentl" act as ra+ical

    sca/engers an+ t'erefore also possess antioxi+ant acti/it". ompo(n+s %it' tertiar"amine f(nctionalit" are commonl" a++e+ to span+ex fibers to in'ibit +iscoloration

    from atmosp'eric poll(tants s(c' as oxi+es of nitrogen an+ c'emicals t'at +e/elop

    (n+er smog-lie con+itions. ,pan+ex pro+(cers 'a/e been +esigning stabili>ers t'at

    are 'ig'l" compatible %it' t'e segmente+ (ret'ane pol"mer to en'ance t'eir

    effecti/eness an+ +(rabilit". ,pan+ex fibers base+ on pol"ester soft segments are

    s(sceptible to mil+e% attac in en+ (ses s(c' as s%im%ear? t'is t"pe of +egra+ation

    is minimi>e+ b" eit'er (sing antimil+e% a++iti/es or b" soft segment str(ct(ral

    mo+ifications.

    Elastomeric fibers ten+ to s%ell in certain organic sol/ents? r(bber fibers s%ell

    in '"+rocarbon sol/ents s(c' as 'exane. ,pan+ex fibers become 'ig'l" s%ollen in

    c'lorinate+ sol/ents s(c' as tetrac'loroet'"lene APercleneB. lt'o(g' t'e p'"sical

    properties of span+ex fibers ret(rn to normal after t'e sol/ent e/aporates:

    consi+erable amo(nts of its stabili>ers ma" 'a/e been extracte+. T'erefore: t'e

    +e/elopment of stabili>ers t'at are more resistant to sol/ent extraction 'as become

    important as sol/ent sco(ring +(ring mill processing replaces a

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    )a/le 1' ariou )ype of (hyical (ropertie of Spandex yarn and !elated

    #omparion.

    Propert" ,pan+ex Extr(+e+ $(bber (t $(bber ,i>es a/ailable 1.125 tex 1661 tex 2.521 m +ia

    Tenacit": HStex .5.13 .2.3 .1.2

    Elongation: ; 4 67 67

    &o+(l(s:e HStex .13.45 .4.5 .2.4

    ,tabilit"

    Q lig't 0oo+ Fair Fair

    8>one 0oo+ Poor Poor

    H8x Fair: "ello%s Poor Poorcti/e l Fair: "ello%s Poor Poor

    o+" oils Fair Poor Poor

    osmetics 0oo+ Fair Fair

    "eabilit" "eable Hot +"eable Hot +"eable

    brasion

    resistance

    Qer" goo+ Poor Poor

    ensit" AgS cm3

    B 1.2

    r" Tenacit" AgS+B .5

    Elongation at brea A;B 7ommercial region A;B 1.3

    5echanical (ropertie'

    *n bot' r(bber t'rea+ an+ span+ex fibers: mec'anical properties ma" be /arie+

    o/er a relati/el" broa+ range. *n r(bber: /ariations are ma+e in t'e +egree of cross-

    lining or /(lcani>ation b" c'anging t'e amo(nt of /(lcani>ing agent: (s(all" s(lf(r:

    an+ t'e accelerants (se+. *n span+ex fibers: man" more possibilities for /ariation are

    a/ailable an+ t'ere are a large n(mber of pol"mers in t'e classification. &ec'anicalproperties A

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    &igure 4' Stre7Strain #ur*e' : 'ar+ fiber: e.g.: n"lon? : biconstit(ent n"lon

    span+ex fiber? : mec'anical stretc' n"lon? : span+ex fiber? E: extr(+e+ latex

    t'rea+. To con/ert HStex to gfS+en: m(ltipl" b" 11.33.

    2.%.&istory of Elastomeric 'arn:EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 11

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    T'e +e/elopment of span+ex %as starte+ +(ring orl+ ar **. t t'is time:

    c'emists too on t'e c'allenge of +e/eloping s"nt'etic replacements for r(bber. T%o

    primar" moti/ating factors prompte+ t'eir researc'. First: t'e %ar effort re

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    leotar+s t'e loo of t'e moment. eggings an+ bo+"-'(gging Ceans %it' #$=

    fiber are among t'e +efining loos of t'e +eca+e.

    16s - " t'e mi+ 1)s: o/er 'alf of all %omen9s 'osier" an+ (n+er%ear

    relie+ on #$= fiber for a close: comfortable fit.

    16s - (ring t'e 1))s: t'e #$= fiber bran+ position in t'e sports

    maret strengt'ene+ t'ro(g' t'e +e/elopment of 'i-tec' fibers s(c' as #$=

    Po%erU fabric in compression s'orts %'ic' 'elp re+(ce at'letes@ m(scle fatig(e.

    T'is +eca+e also sa% t'e rising pop(larit" of t'e fiber not C(st in %omen9s fas'ion

    b(t in men9s too.

    2666s - T'e #$= fiber bran+ is contin(o(sl" e/ol/ing to create /al(e an+

    inspire ne% pro+(ct experience for cons(mers. *n 24: T'e #$= fiber bran+expan+s be"on+ apparel %it' licensing partner ot": *nc.: intro+(cing $immel

    #$= ear: a s'oc-resistant nail polis' %it' #$= fiber pro+(cts in

    li

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    protect t'e integrit" of t'e pol"mer: an+ colorants. T'e main gro(p of span+ex "arn

    is Pol" E(rot'rin Amain ra% materialB.

    T%o t"pes of prepol"mers are reacte+ to pro+(ce t'e span+ex fiber pol"mer

    bac-bone. 8ne is a flexible macrogl"col %'ile t'e ot'er is a stiff +iisoc"anate. T'emacro-gl"col can be pol"ester: pol"et'er: pol"carbonate: pol"caprolactone or some

    combination of t'ese. T'ese are long c'ain pol"mers: %'ic' 'a/e '"+rox"l gro(ps A-

    8!B on bot' en+s. T'e important feat(re of t'ese molec(les is t'at t'e" are long an+

    flexible. T'is part of t'e span+ex fiber is responsible for its stretc'ing c'aracteristic.

    T'e ot'er prepol"mer (se+ to pro+(ce span+ex is a pol"meric +iisoc"anate. T'is is a

    s'orter c'ain pol"mer: %'ic' 'as an isoc"anate A-H8B gro(p on bot' en+s. T'e

    principal c'aracteristic of t'is molec(le is its rigi+it". *n t'e fiber: t'is molec(le

    pro/i+es strengt'.

    &igure "' 5onomer of the Elatomeric 0arn &ound /y Du(ont.

    &an" ra% materials are (se+ to mae t'e (niers %'ic'protect t'e integrit" of t'e pol"mer: an+ textile colorantsto gi/e attracti/e s'a+es to

    t'e fibers an+ t'e span+ex fabrics. T%o in+s of prepol"mers are reacte+ to pro+(ce

    t'e span+ex fiber pol"mer bac-bone- t'e flexible macrogl"col an+ t'e rigi+

    +iisoc"anate. &acro-gl"col can be an"t'ing from among pol"ester: pol"et'er:

    pol"carbonate: pol"caprolactone or some combination of t'ese. T'ese are long an+

    flexible c'ain pol"mers 'a/ing '"+rox"l gro(ps A-8!B on bot' en+s: responsible for

    t'e stretc'ing c'aracteristic of span+ex. T'e pol"meric +iisoc"anate is a s'orter an+

    rigi+ c'ain pol"mer: 'a/ing an isoc"anate A-H8B gro(p on bot' en+s. T'is molec(le

    pro/i+es strengt' to t'e span+ex fibers. atal"st s(c' as +ia>obic"clo octane is (se+to initiate reaction bet%een t'e t%o t"pes of prepol"mers. 8t'er lo% molec(lar

    %eig't amines are (se+ to control t'e molec(lar %eig't of t'e fibers.

    part from t'e basic prepol"mers: catal"sts etc. stabili>ers: s(c' as

    antioxi+ants: are a++e+ to protect t'e fibers from +amaging so(rces lie 'eat: lig't:

    atmosp'eric contaminants: an+ c'lorine. ltra/iolet AQB screeners s(c' as

    '"+rox"ben>otria>oles are a++e+ to protect it against lig't +egra+ation. 8t'er

    stabili>ers s(c' as for pre/enting +iscoloration ca(se+ b" atmosp'eric poll(tants ma"

    also be (se+. s span+ex is often (se+ for maing s%im %ear: antimil+e% a++iti/esare also a++e+ to it. ,tabili>ers a++e+ to t'e span+ex fibers: are resistant to sol/ent

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 14

    http://www.teonline.com/textile-chemicals/textile-colorants.htmlhttp://www.teonline.com/apparel-garments/fashion-clothing/swim-wear.htmlhttp://pubs.acs.org/isubscribe/journals/cen/77/i07/html/7707scit1.ce.htmlhttp://www.teonline.com/apparel-garments/fashion-clothing/swim-wear.htmlhttp://www.teonline.com/textile-chemicals/textile-colorants.html
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    expos(re as t'is co(l+ 'a/e a +amaging effect on t'e fiber. isperse+ an+ aci+ +"es

    are t"picall" (se+ for gi/ing color to span+ex fibers. !o%e/er: special +"eing

    met'o+s are a+opte+ if t'e span+ex fibers are inter%o/en %it' ot'er fibers s(c' as

    n"lon fiberorpol"ester fiber.

    2.,. Ty$es of Elastomeric 'arn:

    T'e t"pes of elastomeric "arn are classifie+ %it' t'e base of Pro+(cers of

    ,pan+ex an+ $elate+ tra+e name at gi/en belo%D

    )a/le 2' Different )ype of )rade 8ame of Spandex 0arn 9a/le in ariou#ountrie.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 1"

    http://www.teonline.com/fibers-yarns-threads/nylon-fiber.htmlhttp://www.teonline.com/fibers-yarns-threads/polyester-fiber.htmlhttp://www.teonline.com/fibers-yarns-threads/nylon-fiber.htmlhttp://www.teonline.com/fibers-yarns-threads/polyester-fiber.html
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    ompetitor o(ntr" Tra+e Hame

    celon 'emicals Fiber orp. Tai%an ,pan+ex

    sa'i 'emical *n+(str" o. Gapan $oicaao+ing ,%an 'emical Fiber o. t+. 'ina ,pan+ex

    a"er 0 0erman" orlastan

    a"er orp. nite+ ,tates orlastan

    E.*. +( Pont +e Hemo(rs o. nite+ ,tates "cra

    Far Eastern Textile t+. Tai%an ,pan+ex

    Fillattice: *nc. *tal" inel

    Formosa sa'i ,pan+ex o. Tai%an ,pan+ex

    F(Ci ,pinning o.: t+. Gapan F(Cibo ,pan+ex ,oflas

    F(Cian 'angle ret'ane Fibre o. t+. 'ina ,pan+ex!ais'an ret'ane Elastic Fibre *n+(str"

    o.: t+.

    'ina ,pan+ex

    !(a Feng *n+(str" o. t+. 'ina WianOi

    !"os(ng orporation Korea reora Toplon

    *srael ,pan+ex o.: t+. *srael Filabell

    Giang,( 'angs'( ,ai ens'i Fiber o. 'ina ,pan+ex

    Giang,( Han !(ang'ai o. t+ 'ina ,pan+ex

    Gilin iao"(an e'eng Fibre o. t+. 'ina ,pan+ex

    Kanebo 0os'en: t+. Gapan (bellKolon *n+(stries: *nc. Korea ,pan+ex

    ian"(ngang R'ongs'an ret'ane Fiber

    o. t+.

    'ina os'en

    Hiss'inbo *n+(stries: *nc. Gapan &obilon

    $a+ici,pan+ex orp. nite+ ,tates 0lospan lerspan

    ,ae'an *n+(stries Korea ,pan+ex

    ,'an+ong Ribo ret'ane Elastic Fibre o.:

    t+.

    'ina anli

    ,'aoxing Pol"ester 'ina ,pan+ex,'ei !eng ,'eiflex o. Tai%an ,'eiflex

    ,ib(r-Qol>'s" $(ssia ,pan+ex

    Tae%ang *n+. o.: t+. Korea celan

    TeiCin t+. Gapan $exe

    Tong !%a ,"nt'etic Fiber o.: t+. Tai%an To%nsp(n

    Tongoo ,"nt'etic Fibres o.: t+. Korea Texlon

    To"obo o. Gapan Espa

    nitia t+. Gapan ,(ccess

    #antai ret'ane Elastic Fibre o. t+. 'ina ,pan+ex

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 1$

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    R'eCiang Hinao ,"nt'etic Fiber

    &an(factor"

    'ina ,pan+ex

    R'ong #(an Enterprise 0ro(p 'ina R"lon

    Qi"ellatex an+ o/erall angla+es' angla+es' "craS,pan+ex

    2.-. The +anufacturing #rocess:

    ,pan+ex fibers are pro+(ce+ in fo(r +ifferent %a"s incl(+ing melt extr(sion:

    reaction spinning: sol(tion +r" spinning: an+ sol(tion %et spinning. Eac' of t'ese

    met'o+s in/ol/es t'e initial step of reacting monomers to pro+(ce a prepol"mer.

    T'en t'e prepol"mer is reacte+ f(rt'er: in /ario(s %a"s: an+ +ra%n o(t to pro+(ce a

    long fiber. ,ince sol(tion +r" spinning is (se+ to pro+(ce o/er ); of t'e %orl+@s

    span+ex fibers: it is +escribe+.

    Baic (rinciple of Spandex &i/er (roduction'

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 1

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    T'e pol"mer c'ain is a segmente+ bloc copol"mer containing long: ran+oml"

    coile+: li

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    2. *n +r" spinning fiber pro+(ction: t'e prepol"mer is f(rt'er reacte+ %it' an

    e

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    'en t'e t%o t"pes of prepol"mers are mixe+ toget'er: t'e" interact to form

    t'e span+ex fibers. *n t'is reaction: t'e '"+rox"l gro(ps A-8!B on t'e macrogl"cols

    react %it' t'e isoc"anates. Eac' molec(le gets a++e+ on to t'e en+ of anot'er

    molec(le: an+ a long c'ain pol"mer is forme+. T'is is no%n as a step-gro%t' or

    a++ition pol"meri>ation. To initiate t'is reaction: a catal"st s(c' as +ia>obic"clooctane m(st be (se+. 8t'er lo% molec(lar %eig't amines are a++e+ to control t'e

    molec(lar %eig't of t'e fibers. ,pan+ex fibers are /(lnerable to +amage from a

    /ariet" of so(rces incl(+ing 'eat: lig't atmosp'eric contaminants: an+ c'lorine. For

    t'is reason: stabili>ers are a++e+ to protect t'e fibers. ntioxi+ants are one t"pe of

    stabili>er.

    Qario(s antioxi+ants are a++e+ to t'e fibers: incl(+ing monomeric an+

    pol"meric 'in+ere+ p'enols. To protect against lig't +egra+ation: (ltra/iolet AQB

    screeners s(c' as '"+rox"ben>otria>oles are a++e+. ompo(n+s %'ic' in'ibit fiber+iscoloration ca(se+ b" atmosp'eric poll(tants are anot'er t"pe of stabili>er a++e+.

    T'ese are t"picall" compo(n+s %it' tertiar" amine f(nctionalit": %'ic' can interact

    %it' t'e oxi+es of nitrogen in air poll(tion. ,ince span+ex is often (se+ for

    s%im%ear: antimil+e% a++iti/es m(st also be a++e+. ll of t'e stabili>ers t'at are

    a++e+ to t'e span+ex fibers are +esigne+ to be resistant to sol/ent expos(re since t'is

    co(l+ 'a/e a +amaging effect on t'e fiber. 'en t'e" are first pro+(ce+: span+ex

    fibers are %'ite. T'erefore: colorants are a++e+ to impro/e t'eir aest'etic

    appearance. isperse+ an+ aci+ +"es are t"picall" (se+. *f t'e span+ex fibers are

    inter%o/en %it' ot'er fibers s(c' as n"lon or pol"ester: special +"ing met'o+s arere

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    &igure ' Schematic Diagram of :et-Spinning (roce.

    T'e filaments forme+ are gat'ere+ on a spin+le after (n+ergoing %as'ing:

    +r"ing: etc. 8ne important point to be borne in min+ %'ile car"ing o(t %et spinning

    is t'at sometimes +roplets are forme+ instea+ of contin(os filaments. T'is 'appens asa res(lt of t'e breaing of contin(it" in t'e Cet as it emerges from t'e spinnet 'ole

    an+ is ca(se+ b" t'e forces of interfacial tension acting on t'e ne%l" forme+ Cet. T'is

    co(l+ be a/oi+e+ b" incerasing t'e /iscosit" of t'e pol"mer sol(tion. oag(lation: an

    essential step in %et spinning: is a rat'er slo% process. !ence: compare+ to t'e ot'er

    t%o processes: t'e rate of %et spinning ma" be as lo% as 5 mSmin. t'e %et spinning

    process is empol"e+ commerciall" to mae fibes from cell(lose: /iscose ra"on:

    pol"acr"lonitrile.

    Dry Spinning (roce'

    Step 1'T'e first step is to pro+(ce t'e prepol"mer. T'is is +one b" mixing a

    macrogl"col %it' a +iisoc"anate monomer. T'e t%o compo(n+s are mixe+ toget'er

    in a reaction /essel to pro+(ce a prepol"mer. t"pical ratio of gl"col to +iisoc"anate

    is 1D2.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 21

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    &igure ' Schametic Diagram of Dry Spinning (roce.

    Step 2'T'e prepol"mer is f(rt'er reacte+ %it' an e

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    t'ro(g' a metal plate calle+ a spinneret. T'is ca(ses t'e sol(tion to be aligne+ in

    stran+s of li

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    laboratories an+ re

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    part from it: +ar colore+ fabrics also cannot be teste+ %it' microscope as lig't

    cannot pass t'ro(g' +ar s(bstances. For s(c' fabrics: eit'er t'e textile +"es'a/e to

    be remo/e+ b" stripping: bleac'ing etc. or t'e" 'a/e to be c'emicall" teste+.

    ,pan+ex fiber'a/e t'e o(tstan+ing c'aracteristic of appearing lie gro(ps offibers f(se+ toget'er. !o%e/er: +ifferent /ariants of span+ex s'o% +ifferent

    c'aracteristics too. T'e "cra fiber loos lie f(se+ m(ltifilament cross sectionall".

    *n+i/i+(al fibers are +otte+ an+ in s'ape lie t'at of +og-bone. *f /ie%e+

    longit(+inall": t'e" appear straig't.

    2.1/.)ecent 0eelo$ments of Elastomeric 'arn:

    T'e

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    %ill be pro+(ce+ %'ic' incorporate span+ex fibers %it' con/entional fibers.

    (rrentl": n"lonSspan+ex fiber blen+s are a/ailable. Finall": impro/ements in

    man(fact(ring %ill also be +isco/ere+. T'ese %ill foc(s on pro+(cing fibers faster

    an+ more efficientl".

    *HQ*,T@s commitment to inno/ation is e/i+ence+ in its prolific la(nc' of

    ne% pro+(cts. #$= lac fiber: la(nc'e+ in ,eptember 24: p(ts an en+ to t'e

    %as'e+-o(t +a"s of fa+e+ gre"s.

    ,%im%ear man(fact(rers 'a/e been

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    AiiB Single yarn trength tet's(all" ni/ersal strengt' tester is (se fort'e elastomeric "arn strengt' test.

    &a/ric )et'

    AiB ,rey &a/ric'0enerall" t'ere are no test is fo(n+ in t'e gre" fabric.

    AiiB &inihed &a/ric'0enerall" t'ere are 3 to 1; "cra "arn are (se+ int'e elastomric fabric. 8ne of t'e most important special tests of "cra

    fabric is Extension an+ &o+(le relate+ to stretc' an+ reco/er". T'ere

    are /ario(s t"pes of test are fo(n+ in t'e finis'e+ elastomericS"cra

    fabric Aafter +"eing: %as'ing an+ ot'er processingB: an brief i+ea as

    gi/en belo%D

    )a/le 4' )et of ariou )ype of Spandex 5aterial (ropertie and )heir

    9ing Intrument.

    Testing Title *nstr(mentS&et'o+s

    ,trengt' !"+ra(lic (rsting Tester

    Elongation ni/ersal ,trengt' Tester

    0,& 0,& c(tter an+ +igital alance

    ,piralit" 0eo-metric alc(lation

    ,'rinage T(mble r" met'o+

    ;uality #ontrol of (roduct'

    To ens(re t'e

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    !an+ or mac'ine %as'es in l(e%arm %ater.

    o not (se c'lorine bleac' on an" fabric containing span+ex. se ox"gen or

    so+i(m per borate t"pe bleac'.

    $ise t'oro(g'l".

    rip +r". *f mac'ine +rie+: (se lo% temperat(re.

    *roning: if re

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    *HQ*,T carries o(t contin(al researc' an+ +e/elopment in fiber tec'nolog".

    T'is is s(pporte+ b" an (n+erstan+ing of t'e maret an+ e/er c'anging fas'ion

    tren+s co(ple+ %it' an a%areness of +e/eloping cons(mers9 %ants an+ nee+s.

    Some 5a

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    !ome f(rnis'ings &icrobea+ pillo%s.

    *n clot'ing it (s(all" appears as a small percentage of total material. *n Hort'

    merica it is rare in men@s c'eaper clot'ing: b(t pre/alent in %omen@s. *t is (se+more often in %omen@s as t'eir clot'es are (s(all" more form-fitting. *t is (s(all"

    mixe+ %it' a greater percentage of one ot'er textile s(c' as cotton: pol"ester: or

    ot'ers. T'is eeps t'e reflection of lig't re+(ce+ to being 'ar+l" noticeable.

    2.13. ycra allery:

    ll samples are collecte+ from Q*#ETEO an+ nlima Textile t+

    AKnitting "ing sectionBD

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 36

    Two Thread

    Fleece LycraFeeder Stripe

    Single JerseyLycra Interlock Lycra

    http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Microbead_Pillow&action=edit&redlink=1http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Microbead_Pillow&action=edit&redlink=1
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    3.Ex$erimental:

    (ring t'e t'esis t'e follo%ing mentions experiment can be +one.

    Knitting of t'e fabric %it' "cra.

    &eas(rement of ales per *nc'. &eas(rement of o(rse per *nc'.

    &eas(rement of ,titc' lengt'.

    &eas(rement of 0,&.

    &eas(rement of ,'rinage.

    &eas(rement of Extensibilit".

    ompare all of t'e properties of fabric an+ t'eir effect.

    isc(ssion of res(lts.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 31

    Single Jersey

    Lycra Stripe

    Rib Single Stripe

    Lycra

    Lycra Lacosta

    Single Jersey

    Engineering

    Stripe Lycra

    Mercerized Feeder

    Stripe Lycra

    Single Jersey

    Lycra Stripe

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    3.1.Knitting +achine and Its S$ecification:

    e 'a/e +one t'is experiment on t'e nlima Textile t+. T'e compan"@s

    Knitting pro+(ction facilit" comprises of fort" bran+ ne% &a"er ie of 0erman"

    'ig' spee+ comp(teri>e+ circ(lar nitting mac'ines as %ell as ten semi-Cac

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    &igure ' (hotograph of Experimental +nitting 5achine.

    Specification'T'e specification of t'e experimental nitting mac'ine is as follo%sD

    &o+el D &a"er ie.

    8rigin D 0erman".

    ia D 3.0a(ge D 24.

    $P& D 25.

    Fee+er D )6.

    H(mber of nee+lesD 2256.

    3.2. Knitting of the a!ric:

    nitte+ fabric ma" be ma+e %it' a single "arn %'ic' is forme+ into

    interlocing loops %it' t'e 'elp of 'ooe+ nee+les. ccor+ing to t'e p(rpose of t'e

    fabric: t'e loops ma" be loosel" or closel" constr(cte+. roc'ete+ fabric is t'e

    simplest example of nitting %'ere a c'ain of loops is constr(cte+ from a single

    t'rea+ %it' t'e 'elp of a 'oo. s t'e loops are interloce+ in a nitte+ fabric: it can

    stretc' in an" +irection e/en %'en a lo%-gra+e "arn 'a/ing little elasticit" is (se+.

    T'e constr(ction of nitte+ fabric is assesse+ b" t'e n(mber of stitc'es or

    loops per s

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    r(n across t'e fabric: eac' ro% is calle+ a co(rse t'at correspon+s to t'e filling or

    %eft in %o/en fabrics. nitte+ fabric 'a/ing 5 loops or stitc'es in one inc' of

    %i+t' an+ 6 loops in one inc' of lengt' %ill be sai+ to 'a/e 5 ales an+ 6

    co(rses.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 34

    Fabric ac Fabric Face

    ooping iagram

    'ain Hotation

    Hee+le rrangement

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    &igure 16' Baic (icture of Simple Single =erey +nit Structure.

    &igure 11' Sample of Experimental +nitted &a/ric.

    8(r experimental fabric is ,ingle Gerse" fabric accor+ing to anal"sis of nitte+

    str(ct(re. ccor+ing to Textile Terms an+ efinition T'e Textile *nstit(te ,ingle

    Gerse" +efine+ as: M generic name applie+ to nitte+ fabrics ma+e on one set of

    nee+le. T'e c'aracteristics are /arie+ to ac'ie/e t'e +esire+ en+-(se or patterne+

    effectN. T'e ,ingle Gerse" fabric generall" pro+(ce+ from one sets of nee+les. T'e

    face si+e an+ bac si+e of t'e fabric loo similar an+ all are face or all are bac

    loops. T'e ,ingle Gerse" 'as greater c(rling ten+enc" an+ (nbalance+. *ts generall"t'icness an+ %eig't is 'alf of o(ble Gerse" A$ibB. To pro+(cing ,ingle Gerse"

    fabric generall" atc' nee+les are (se+. T'e 'ooe+ metal nee+le is t'e principal

    nitting element of t'e nitting mac'ine.T'e s'ape of nee+le 'oo an+ latc' an+ t'e

    stroe of t'e nee+le pla" an important bearing on t'e loo an+

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    &igure 12' (hotograph of atch 8eedle %cti*ation &orming Single =erey.

    T'e ,iner is t'e secon+ primar" nitting element. *t is a t'in metal plate %it'

    an in+i/i+(al or a collecti/e action operating approximatel" at rig't angles from t'e

    'oo si+e of t'e nee+le be+: bet%een a+Cacent nee+les. *t ma" perform one or more

    of t'e follo%ing f(nctions: +epen+ent (pon t'e mac'ines nitting action an+

    conse

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    Knitting cam controls t'e motion of t'e nee+les t'ro(g'o(t t'e nitting c"cle

    as %ell as t'e pro+(ction rate of t'e mac'ine. T'e press(re to increase t'e rate of

    pro+(ction of goo+

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    aB F(ll Fee+er.

    3.3. Ex$erimental )esults and 4nalysis:

    8(r experimental t'esis is MEffect of inp(t tension of elastomeric "arns

    A"craB on nitte+ fabric propertiesN. (e to anal"sis abo(t t'is t'esis %e can %oron /ario(s t"pes of experiment. brief i+ea of experimental t'esis an+ t'eir /ario(s

    t"pes of effect can be +isc(ss as belo%D

    )a/le $' 5eaurement of :ale per Inch? #oure per Inch? Stitch ength and

    ,S5 ith Different &eeding )enion of ycra.

    Fabric Properties "cra Fee+

    1"6 16 16

    ale per *nc' 3) 37 35oarse per *nc' 7 75 66

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 3

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    ,titc' engt' AmmB 2.)3 3.1 3.7

    0,& 237.47 23.3 225.5)

    )a/le ' 5eaurement of :ale per Inch? #oure per Inch? Stitch ength and

    ,S5 ith Different &eeding )enion of ycra in %fter :ahing.

    Fabric Properties "cra Fee+

    1"6 16 16

    ale per *nc' 41 4 3)

    oarse per *nc' 71 67 61

    ,titc' engt' AmmB 2.)7 2.) 2.))

    0,& 244.4 23.3 232.12

    3.3.1. 5ales $er Inch: col(mn of loops along t'e lengt' of a fabric is calle+ ales. T'e n(mber of

    /isible loops per (nit lengt' meas(re+ along a co(rse. T'e tra+itional (nit 'as been

    ales per inc' b(t t'e /al(e is no% expresse+ as ales per cm.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 3

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    &igure 1"' (hotograph )hat Shoing :ale per Inch.

    5eaurement of :ale per Inch'

    e calc(late+ t'e n(mber of ales in one inc' %it' t'e 'elp of co(nting glass

    an+ nee+le. t first %e selecte+ t'e one s

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    meas(re+ along a %ale. T'e tra+itional (nit 'as been co(rses per inc' b(t t'e /al(e is

    no% expresse+ as co(rses per cm.

    &igure 1$' (hotograph )hat Shoing #oure per Inch.

    5eaurement of #oure per Inch'

    e calc(late+ t'e n(mber of co(rses in one inc' %it' t'e 'elp of co(nting

    glass an+ nee+le. t first %e selecte+ t'e one s

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    &igure 1' (hotograph )hat Shoing Stitch ength.

    5eaurement of Stitch ength'

    ,titc' lengt' is t'eoreticall" is a single lengt' of "arn %'ic' incl(+e onenee+le loop an+ 'alf t'e lengt' of #arn A'alf of a siner loopB bet%een t'at nee+le

    loop an+ t'e a+Cacent nee+le loops on eit'er si+e of it. oop exists in co(rse in co(rse

    lengt' an+ it is t'at %'ic' infl(ence fabric +imension an+ ot'er properties incl(+ing

    %eig't. *n or+er to +etermine t'e stitc' lengt': %e co(nt 1 n(mber ales or stitc'

    an+ co(nt its lengt' b" 'anging t'e "arn on t'e stitc' lengt' co(nters. T'e rea+ing is

    fo(n+ in mm (nit.

    T'e ,titc' lengt' %as teste+ in fi/e places of eac' fabric sample an+ at eac'

    place t%o rea+ings %ere taen before an+ after %as'. T'e teste+ res(lts are s'o%n in

    tables Table 6 7. Teste+ res(lts are also presente+ grap'icall" an+ s'o%n in Fig(re21 %'ere stitc' lengt' %as plotte+ against inp(t tension Al"cra fee+B AmmB.

    From to t'e mentione+ +ata c'arts %ere pro+(ce+ in %'ic' O-axis in+icates t'e inp(t

    tension. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'ree +ifferent inp(t tensions %ere generate+ from

    t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ e.g. 1): 17 15. T'(s in case 1) t'e l"cra fee+

    %as 'ig'est as a res(lt tension %ill be lo%est similarl" for 15 t'e l"cra fee+ %as

    lo%est as a res(lt inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est. T'ese t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra

    fee+ %ere plotte+ against stitc' lengt' in+icates in #-axis an+ s'o%n in fig(res 21. *t

    ma" be mentione+ t'at t'o(g' inp(t tension %ere (se+ as 1): 17 15 b(t in t'e

    program con/erte+ it to 1: 2 3. T'erefore 1 in+icates lo%est tension an+ 3 in+icate'ig'est inp(t tension.

    3.3.". S+:

    T'e stan+ar+ meas(rement for %eig't an+

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    &igure 1' (hotograph of Sample #utter ith ,S5 Balance.

    5eaurement of ,S5'

    T'e 0re" 0,& A0rams per s

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    $elaxation s'rinage

    Felting s'rinage

    ompressi/e s'rinage $esi+(al s'rinage

    ,'rinage is mainl" +(e to "arn s%elling an+ t'e res(lting crimp increase +(ring

    %as'ing in case of cotton fabrics. #arn s%elling percentage is more t'an pol"ester

    cotton blen+ing "arn.

    !elaxation hrinkageD (ring man(fact(res fabrics an+ t'eir component

    "arns are s(bCecte+ to tension (n+er /ar"ing con+itions of temperat(re an+

    moist(re content: after man(fact(ring %'en t'e fabric is taen from t'emac'ine an+ eep on floor or store room: t'en t'e fabric ten+s to s'rin:

    t'is t"pe s'rinage is calle+ relaxation s'rinage.

    &elting hrinkageD *n case of %ool fibers +imensional c'anges can be

    magnifie+ b" felting s'rinage. 'en (ntreate+ %ool fibers are s(bCecte+

    to mec'anical action in t'e presence of moist(re

    #omprei*e hrinkageD process in %'ic' fabric is ca(se+ to s'rin in

    lengt' b" compression. T'e process often referre+ to as controlle+compressi/e s'rinage

    !eidual hrinkage' fter %as'ing t'e fabric is s'r(n. T'is t"pe of

    s'rinage is calle+ resi+(al s'rinage. $esi+(al s'rinage is t'e main factor

    of garments in+(str".

    5eaurement of Shrinkage'

    (reparation of pecimen' T'e fabric s'o(l+ be con+itione+ in a stan+ar+

    testing atmosp'ere before maring o(t: s(ppose sample c(t 5 O 5 cm an+

    stitc'ing an+ mare+ o(t 35 O 35 cm

    :ahing' T'e sample is %as'e+ in t'e rele/ant %as'ing sol(tion in a

    %as'ing mac'ine. fter t'e specifie+ time 'as elapse+ t'e sample is rinse+.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 44

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    1. Drying' fter rinsing: t'e s(rpl(s %ater is remo/e+ b" centrif(ge or b"

    'an+ sing. r"ing is complete+ b" means of a flat 'eate+ press or a

    'eate+ flat iron.

    Shrinkage (ercentage #alculation'

    ,'rinage percentage L-

    1- BA1--

    L

    LL

    'ere:

    -L L T'e +istance bet%een t'e +at(m lines before %as'ing.

    1L L T'e +istance bet%een +at(m lines after %as'ing.

    0enerall" in in+(str" *,8 stan+ar+ scales are (se+ %'ere t'e scale is 35 cm

    an+ contain s'rinage percentage: for t'is reason t'e" meas(res s'rinage percentage+irectl".

    5eaurement of Shrinkage'

    !ecipe'

    &ac'ine D 'irlpool 0arments %as'ing mac'ine A&a+e b" *n+iaB.

    ,ample D 5gm A*n+i/i+(alB.

    ater D 1.2 g.

    etergent D 2gmS A,(rf ExcelB.

    !eat D

    4- Time D 2 &in(tes.

    r"ing D Hormal air +r"ing AFlat r"ingB.

    T'e ,'rinage %as teste+ in fi/e places of eac' fabric sample an+ at eac'

    place t%o rea+ings %ere taen before an+ after %as'. T'e teste+ res(lts are s'o%n in

    tables Table . Teste+ res(lts are also presente+ grap'icall" an+ s'o%n in Fig(re 23

    %'ere s'rinage %as plotte+ against inp(t tension Al"cra fee+B AmmB.

    From to t'e mentione+ +ata c'arts %ere pro+(ce+ in %'ic' O-axis in+icatest'e inp(t tension. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'ree +ifferent inp(t tensions %ere

    generate+ from t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ e.g. 1): 17 15. T'(s in case

    1) t'e l"cra fee+ %as 'ig'est as a res(lt tension %ill be lo%est similarl" for 15 t'e

    l"cra fee+ %as lo%est as a res(lt inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est. T'ese t'ree +ifferent

    rates of l"cra fee+ %ere plotte+ against ,'rinage in+icate in #-axis an+ s'o%n in

    Fig(re 23. ccor+ing to t'is c'art it %as follo%e+ t'at %'en "cra Fee+ Tension

    increases t'en t'e ,'rinage ; gra+(all" +ecreases. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'o(g'

    inp(t tension %ere (se+ as 1): 17 15 b(t in t'e program con/erte+ it to 1: 2

    3. T'erefore 1 in+icates lo%est tension an+ 3 in+icate 'ig'est inp(t tension.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 4"

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    !eult'

    )a/le ' Data a/out Shrinkage.

    0#!% &EED 1"6

    :idth @InchA ength @InchA

    Before :ahing 15. 15.

    %fter :ahing 13.) 13.)5

    Difference @InchA 1.16 1.6"

    ycra &eed 16

    :idth @InchA ength @InchA

    Before :ahing 15. 15.

    %fter :ahing 13.)2 13.)4Difference @InchA 1.6 1.6$

    ycra &eed 16

    :idth @InchA ength @InchA

    Before :ahing 15. 15.

    %fter :ahing 13.)3 13.)5

    Difference @InchA 1.7 1.5

    ycra &eed @1"6A'

    Percentage of ,'rinage i+t' %ise +irection L-

    1- BA1--

    L

    LL

    L15

    B)-.1315A1--

    L 7.33 ;.

    Percentage of ,'rinage engt' %ise +irection L-

    1- BA1--

    L

    LL

    L15

    B)5.1315A1--

    L 7. ;.ycra &eed @16A'

    Percentage of ,'rinage i+t' %ise +irection L-

    1- BA1--

    L

    LL

    L15

    B)2.1315A1--

    L 7.2 ;.

    Percentage of ,'rinage engt' %ise +irection L-

    1- BA1--

    L

    LL

    L15

    B)4.1315A1--

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 4$

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    L 7.7 ;.

    ycra &eed @16A'

    Percentage of ,'rinage i+t' %ise +irection L-

    1- BA1--

    L

    LL

    L15

    B)3.1315A1--

    L 7.13;.

    Percentage of ,'rinage engt' %ise +irection L-

    1- BA1--

    L

    LL

    L15

    B)5.1315A1--

    L 7. ;.

    3.3.(. Extensi!ility:

    ccor+ing to Textile Terms an+ efinition b" T'e Textile *nstit(te

    Extensibilit" can be +efine as: MT'e increase in lengt' of a specimen +(ring a tensile

    test expresse+ as percentage of t'e ga(ge lengt' or t'e nominal ga(ge lengt'N.

    5eaurement of Exteni/ility'

    Extensibilit" %as meas(re+ man(all" beca(se of t'ere is less instr(ment in

    TTW laborator". To meas(re extensibilit" +ifferent loa+ lie 2gm: 3gm an+

    4gm are applie+. T'e experimental samples are c(t 12Y4 inc' an+ t'is sample is'anging %it' loa+ remaining fo(r min(tes. T'en t'e elongation lengt' is meas(re in

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 4

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    meter scale (se of (nit inc'. ll of t'e +ata collecte+ abo(t fi/e places at abo(t fi/e

    times an+ finall" calc(late a/erage +ata t'at are collecte+ on Table ).

    From to t'e mentione+ +ata c'arts %ere pro+(ce+ in %'ic' O-axis in+icates

    t'e inp(t tension. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'ree +ifferent inp(t tensions %eregenerate+ from t'ree +ifferent rates of l"cra fee+ e.g. 1): 17 15. T'(s in case

    1) t'e "cra fee+ %as 'ig'est as a res(lt tension %ill be lo%est similarl" for 15 t'e

    "cra fee+ %as lo%est as a res(lt inp(t tension %ill be 'ig'est. T'ese t'ree +ifferent

    rates of "cra fee+ %ere plotte+ against extensibilit" in+icate in #-axis an+ s'o%n in

    fig(res24. *t ma" be mentione+ t'at t'o(g' inp(t tension %ere (se+ as 1): 17

    15 b(t in t'e program con/erte+ it to 1: 2 3. T'erefore 1 in+icates lo%est tension

    an+ 3 in+icate 'ig'est inp(t tension.

    )a/le ' 5eaurement of Exteni/ility :ith different ycra &eed )enion.

    "cra Fee+ A15B

    H(mber of

    obser/ation

    oa+ AgmB *nitial

    engt'

    A*nc'B

    it' oa+

    engt'

    A*nc'B

    Extension

    A*nc'B

    fter isplace

    oa+ engt' A*nc'B

    1. 2 12 13.75 1.75 12.1

    2. 3 12 15. 3. 12.45

    3. 4 12 17. 5. 13.

    "cra Fee+ A17B

    H(mber of

    obser/ation

    oa+ AgmB *nitial

    engt'

    A*nc'B

    it' oa+

    engt'

    A*nc'B

    Extension

    A*nc'B

    fter isplace

    oa+ engt' A*nc'B

    1. 2 12 14.1 2.1 12.15

    2. 3 12 15.75 3.75 12.5

    3. 4 12 1.5 6.5 13.

    "cra Fee+ A1)B

    H(mber of

    obser/ation

    oa+ AgmB *nitial

    engt'

    A*nc'B

    it' oa+

    engt'

    A*nc'B

    Extension

    A*nc'B

    fter isplace

    oa+ engt' A*nc'B

    1. 2 12 14.5 2.5 12.2

    2. 3 12 16.25 4.25 12.6

    3. 4 12 1). 7. 13.2

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 4

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    ". 0iscussion of )esults:

    From t'e abo/e experiment of effect of inp(t tension of elastomeric "arn A"craB on

    nitte+ fabric properties %e fo(n+ t'e follo%ing res(lts.

    ".1.Effect of 5ales $er Inch:

    ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 16 an+ Table 6 7 %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at as "cra

    Fee+ Tension increases t'e ales per *nc' are +ecreases. T'is is probabl" beca(se of

    t'at %'en fee+ tension of "arn increases t'en t'e s'rinage %o(l+ occ(r ales %ise

    +irect ion +(e to t'e 'ig' exten+e+ properties of "cra "arn.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. 4

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    35

    37

    3939

    40

    41

    32

    33

    34

    35

    36

    37

    38

    39

    40

    41

    42

    1 2 3

    Lycra Feed

    WalesperInch

    Wales per Inch (Before Washing)Wales per Inch (After Washing)

    &igure 1' Effect of :ale per Inch of ariou &eeding )enion of ycra.

    ".2.Effect of 6ourse $er Inch:

    ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 1 an+ Table 6 7 %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en "cra

    Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e o(rse per *nc' are gra+(all" +ecreases. T'is is

    probabl" beca(se of t'at %'en fee+ tension of "arn increases t'en t'e s'rinage

    co(l+ be occ(r o(rse %ise +irection +(e to t'e 'ig' exten+e+ properties of "cra

    "arn.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. "6

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    6675

    78

    6167

    71

    010

    20

    30

    40

    50

    60

    7080

    90

    1 2 3Lycra Feed

    CourseperInch

    o!rse per Inch (Before Washing)o!rse per Inch (After Washing)

    &igure 26' Effect of #oure per Inch in ariou &eeding )enion of ycra.

    ".3.Effect of Stitch ength:

    ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 2 an+ Table 6 7 %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en "cra

    Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e ,titc' lengt' are also increases.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. "1

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    2"93

    2"97

    3"073"01

    2"99

    2"98

    2"85

    2"9

    2"95

    3

    3"05

    3"1

    1 2 3Lycra Feed

    S

    titchLenght(mm)

    #titch $ength (Before Washing)#titch $ength (After Washing)

    &igure 21' Effect of Stitch length @mmA in ariou &eeding )enion of ycra.

    ".".Effect of S+:

    ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 22 an+ Table 6 7 %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en "cra

    Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e 0,& are gra+(all" +ecreases. T'is is probabl"

    beca(se of t'at %'en fee+ tension of "arn increases t'en t'e s'rinage co(l+ be occ(r

    ales o(rse %ise +irection +(e to t'e 'ig' exten+e+ properties of "cra "arn.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. "2

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    237"47

    244"48

    225"59

    230"38

    232"12

    238"3

    215

    220

    225

    230

    235

    240

    245

    250

    1 2 3

    Lycra Feed

    GSM

    %#& (Before Washing) %#& (After Washing)

    &igure 22' Effect of ,S5 in ariou &eeding )enion of ycra.

    ".%.Effect of Shrinkage:

    ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 23 Table %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en "cra Fee+

    Tension increases t'en t'e s'rinage percentage are gra+(all" +ecreases.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. "3

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    7"33

    7"2

    7"13

    7"2

    7 7"13

    6"8

    6"9

    7

    7"1

    7"2

    7"3

    7"4

    1 2 3Lycra Feed

    Shrinkage%

    Wi'th ise #hrinage $ength ise #hrinage

    &igure 23' Effect of Shrinkage (ercentage of ariou &eed )enion.

    ".(.Effect of Extensi!ility:

    ccor+ing to t'e Fig(re 24 an+ Table ) %e 'a/e follo%e+ t'at %'en "cra

    Fee+ Tension increases t'en t'e extensibilit" being increases. e 'a/e also follo%e+

    t'at %'en respecti/e loa+ is increases t'en t'e elongation increases t'at extension

    abo/e t'e smaller loa+.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. "4

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    2"5

    4"25

    7

    1"752"1

    3

    3"75

    5

    6"5

    0

    12

    3

    4

    5

    6

    7

    8

    1 2 3Lycra Feed

    Ete

    nsi!ility

    (Inch)

    *+tensi,ilit- ($oa' 200 g.) *+tensi,ilit- ($oa' 300 g.)

    *+tensi,ilit- ($oa' 400 g.)

    &igure 24' Effect of Exteni/ility in ariou &eeding )enion of ycra ith

    Different oad.

    %.6onclusion:

    T'e inp(t tension of "cra "arn is /er" important for t'e nit fabric

    properties. From t'is proCect it is fo(n+ t'at %'en t'e "cra fee+ %as lo%est inp(t

    tension %ill be 'ig'est fabric properties if inp(t tension c'anges in same fabric b(t

    in +ifferent places ales per inc': o(rse per inc': stitc' lengt': 0,& an+

    s'rinage: Extensibilit" are also c'anges. To stabili>e t'ere propert" a goo+ finis'ing

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. ""

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    is re

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    )a/le 2'ifferent T"pes of Tra+e Hame of ,pan+ex #arn sable in Qario(s

    o(ntries--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16

    )a/le 3'*+entification of ,pan+ex #arn sing (rn Test an+ lso T'eir

    Properties--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24

    )a/le 4'Test of Qario(s T"pes of ,pan+ex &aterials Properties an+ T'eir

    sing *nstr(ment------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 27

    )a/le "'Pro+(ct of ,pan+ex 0oo+s an+ T'eir se------------------------------------- 3

    )a/le $'&eas(rement of ales per *nc': o(rse per *nc': ,titc' engt' an+ 0,&

    %it' ifferent Fee+ing Tension of "cra-------------------------------------------------- 3)

    )a/le '&eas(rement of ales per *nc': o(rse per *nc': ,titc' engt' an+ 0,&

    %it' ifferent Fee+ing Tension of "cra in fter as'ing---------------------------- 3)

    )a/le 'ata abo(t ,'rinage------------------------------------------------------------- 46

    )a/le '&eas(rement of Extensibilit" it' +ifferent "cra Fee+ Tension--------- 4

    6.2. it of &igure'

    &igure 1' P'otograp's of ncient Textile Tec'nolog"----------------------------------- 5

    &igure 2' P'otograp's of ecorati/e Knitte+ 0oo+s ------------------------------------ 6

    &igure 3' P'otograp's of Elasstomeric Fibre to #arn ------------------------------------ 7

    &igure 4' ,tress,train (r/es ------------------------------------------------------------ 11

    &igure "' &onomer of t'e Elastomeric #arn Fo(n+ b" (Pont ---------------------- 14

    &igure $' P'otograp's of ,pan+ex Fibre Pro+(ction &et'o+s ------------------------ 1

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. "

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    &igure ' ,c'ematic iagram of et-,pinning Process ------------------------------- 21

    &igure ' ,c'ametic iagram of r" ,pinning Process -------------------------------- 22

    &igure ' P'otograp's of Experimental Knitting &ac'ine ---------------------------- 33

    &igure 16'asic Pict(re of ,imple ,ingle Gerse" Knit ,tr(ct(re---------------------- 35

    &igure 11',ample of Experimental Knitte+ Fabric------------------------------------- 35

    &igure 12'P'otograp's of atc' Hee+le cti/ation Forming ,ingle Gerse"-------- 36

    &igure 13'P'otograp's of atc' Hee+le an+ eb !ol+ing ,iner

    rrangement----------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 36

    &igure 14' P'otograp's of am "namics of ,ingle Gerse" Knitte+ Fabrics-------- 37

    &igure 1"'P'otograp's T'at ,'o%ing ales per *nc'--------------------------------- 4

    &igure 1$' P'otograp's T'at ,'o%ing o(rse per *nc'-------------------------------- 41

    &igure 1'P'otograp's T'at ,'o%ing ,titc' engt'----------------------------------- 42

    &igure 1'P'otograp's of ,ample (tter %it' 0,& alance------------------------- 43

    &igure 1'Effect of ales per *nc' of Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of "cra---------- 5

    &igure 26'Effect of o(rse per *nc' in Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of "cra--------- 51

    &igure 21'Effect of ,titc' lengt' AmmB in Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of "cra------

    52

    &igure 22'Effect of 0,& in Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of "cra---------------------- 53

    &igure 23'Effect of ,'rinage Percentage of Qario(s Fee+ Tension----------------- 54

    &igure 24'Effect of Extensibilit" in Qario(s Fee+ing Tension of "cra %it'

    ifferent oa+--------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 55

    $.3.Bi/liography'

    Book'

    1. Textile Terms an+ efinition b" t'e Textile *nstit(te ATent' E+itionB:

    1))7.

    2. Knitting Tec'nolog" b" a/i+ G. ,pencer AT'ir+ E+itionB: 21.

    3. irc(lar Knitting b" "er A,econ+ E+itionB: 1))5.

    4. Textile *n+(str" n+er 0lobali>ation b" &. ,o(n+arapan+in AFirst

    E+itionB: 24.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. "

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    5. !an+ oo of Tec'nical Textiles b" A R Horrocks and S C Anand

    (Frs! Ed!on)" #$$$.

    6. !an+ oo of Textile Fibres b" G. 0or+on oo AFift' E+itionB: 1)4.

    7. Textile Testing " P. ngappan AFo(rt' E+itionB: 1))7.

    . Principles of Textile Testing b" G. E. oot' AT'ir+ E+itionB: 1))6.). &an-&a+e Fibres b" $. . &oncrieff A,ixt' E+itionB: 1)75.

    1.Pol"mer ,cience " Q. $. 0o%arier AFo(rteent' $eprintB: &a" 1))).

    :e/ite'

    1. 'ttpDSS%%%.0&E.com

    2. 'ttpDSS%%%.K&E.com

    3. 'ttpDSS%%%.google.com

    4. 'ttpDSS%%%."a'oo.com5. 'ttpDSS%%%.te(line.com

    6. 'ttpDSS%%%.ebooee.com.cn7. 'ttpDSS%%%.2man(fact(rer.com. 'ttpDSS%%%.cn-"ana.com

    ). 'ttpDSS%%%.fibre2fas'ion.com

    1.'ttpDSS%%%.textileglossar".com

    11.'ttpDSS%%%.E>inerticles.com

    8epaper'

    1. T'e Prot'om lo.

    17t'Ho/ember 2.2t'Ho/ember 2.

    2t'G(l" 2).

    Seminar (aper'

    1. *TET ,eminar: Presente+ b" &iCan(r $a'man '(i"an on 27 t' G(l"

    27.

    $.4.!eference'

    *nternet.

    He%spaper.

    0&E.

    Q*#ETEO.

    extex imite+.

    ,eminar Paper.

    EFFECT OF INPUT TENSION OF ELASTOMERIC YARNS (LYCRA) ON KNITTED

    FABRIC PROPERTIES. "

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    r. &+. &a'b(b(l !a