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CIP Eco-innovation Pilot and market replication projects Call 2009 Call Identifier: CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009 Progress Report Project acronym BISCOL Contract ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 Covering the reporting period from 01/03/2012 to 31/01/2013 Reporting Date 28/02/2013 Project coordinator: Rebecca Pogni Project website: www.biscol.unisi.it

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CIP Eco-innovation Pilot and market replication projects

Call 2009

Call Identifier: CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009

Progress Report Project acronym

BISCOL

Contract ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 Covering the reporting period from

01/03/2012 to 31/01/2013 Reporting Date

28/02/2013

Project coordinator: Rebecca Pogni Project website: www.biscol.unisi.it

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 2 of 14

1 Progress of work plan in the period

1.1 General progress

The objectives of BISCOL project is to propose a new bio-dyeing process, based on the ecological optimization of the overall dyeing process cycle. All the tasks foreseen for month 29 of the project have been fulfilled regarding textile pre-treatments and new auxiliaries. The main deviation has been represented by the installation of the bioreactor for the scale up of the bio-dyes. This has determined a delay in the production of biodyes. All these aspects will be considered and analysed in details for each WP in the following part. Concerning the financial aspects, at month 29 a budget revision has been decided without affecting the overall budget. The deviations are reported and analyzed in the following part.

1. Progress on all work packages against initial objectives

WP1 The management activity has been continued for all the reporting period (coordinating the work to be done in different WPs, updating the web-site and preparing and delivering all the documents requested by EACI). Different meetings has been organized: periodical and annual meetings of the whole consortium. Face to face meetings with different partners have been organized at any time was needed to plan and discuss research and financial activities.

• The partner King Color has been replaced by the new candidate Lanificio Luigi Ricceri, as new Associated Beneficiary. RICCERI will perform all activities foreseen for the resigning beneficiary in the Grant Agreement since new Beneficiary has the competences and the resources to perform the remaining activities. Lanificio Luigi Ricceri becomes co-beneficiary and assumes all rights and obligation from 01/06/2012. The eligibility of the costs for Lanificio Luigi Ricceri runs from the same date. Lanificio Ricceri s.r.l. has started its activities on the project since June 2012, as a prosecution of activities formerly carried out by King Color s.r.l. – UNIPERSONALE.

• Budget revision A reminder about the twenty seven-monthly financial report has been pointed out by management team (NTT). Some deviations have been incurred and are foreseen at the end of the project: - UNISI is asking to move around 55,000 € money from the Other Costs Category (reduction of the costs of 63%*) to Personnel (22% increase) since they are overspending in staff costs, mainly because more efforts have been required for the optimization of the dyestuff production and to travel (30% increase) since a good dissemination has already been done by the coordinating beneficiary - NTT is under-spending under Other costs category (around 16,200 €, 48% reduction).

- WET is under-spending under Other costs category (around 21,000 €, 17% reduction) that

will be partially allocated under personnel cost category (14-15,000 €, 7% increase).

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 3 of 14

- SETAS is asking to move around 15,000 € money from the Other Costs Category

(reduction of the costs of 19%) and 10,000 € from Durable Equipment (reduction of the costs of 50%) to Personnel (increasing of 15%) since they are overspending in staff costs, mainly because of larger effort have been paid in the last year of the project to recover the delay on biodyes production induced by the late delivery of the pilot. - ACHIMO is overspending (around 15-16,000 € at M30) under the personnel categories since or the problem incurred with KING Color for several months, its personnel performed the activities related with validation of the dyestuffs produced on small and large scale. Since some under-expenditure are foreseen for NTT and WET, this money will be transferred from those partners to ACHIMO. According to the Financial Guidelines the money transferred from NTT and WET is under 50% of the total budget (total over-expenditure for ACHIMO is around 7% and 5% of the total NTT and WET budget respectively) and it is at M30 under the 20% of the total eligible costs that can be accepted by the recipient beneficiary (20% for ACHIMO is 24,550 €, meaning 22,900 € to be allocated under personnel category). These deviations will not affect the overall budget but in any case the Financial Officer has been informed. * % are referred to the cost categories and not to the overall budget

More details are provided in the "budget transfer request" file enclosed to PR2.

WP3 (concluded) The WP has been concluded at month 28. The biochemical conversion of chemical precursors by immobilized laccase (WET) has been carried on. Some of the biodyes have been selected for their textile dyeability and their scale up is in progress. A tri-colour set (yellow, red and blue) of acid biodyes has been selected for woollen fabrics: Acid yellow dye (SIAY1): from 4-nitro-1-naphthylamine and 4-amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid Acid blue dye (SIAB1): from 3-methyl-2-benzothiazolinone hydrazone and 4-amino-5-idrossinaftalen-2,7-disulfonic acid Acid red dye (SIAR1): from 2,2′-Azinobis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) and 4-amino-1-naphthalensulfonic acid Other selected dyes are: Acid yellow dye (Curie 22): from 3-amino-4-hydroxybenzensulfonic acid Acid red dye (SIAR2): from 2,5-diaminobenzensulfonic acid Between all dyestuffs tested for cotton the one that deserves further study is the fuchsia dye (3-methyl-2-benzothiazolinone hydrazone and aniline).

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 4 of 14

Based on their dyeability, fastness and washable tests the following dyes have been selected to be scaled up of the bioreactor in SETAS:

Dye Precursors Light Fastness ISO 105 B02 (12

hour grade: 3)

Washing Fastness ISO 105 C06 A2S (40°C 30 minute)

SIAY1 4-nitro-1-naphthylamine and 4-amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid

4 5

SIAR1 2,2′-Azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) diammonium salt and 4-amino-1-naphthalenesulfonic acid (molar ratio 1:1)

3 4-5

SIAB1 3-Methyl-2-benzothiazolinone hydrazone hydrochloridehydrate and 4-Amino-5-hydroxynaphthalene-2,7-disulfonic acid monosodium salt hydrate (molar ratio 1:1)

3 5

WP4 (concluded)

The WP has been closed with minor deviations (final revision of the dyeability test with selected biodyes will be finalized by the end of May) because of the delay in the finalization of WP3 and the problems faced with partner KING. The plasma pre-treatment has been tested at pre-industrial scale on woollen and cotton fabrics. The plasma technique in any case has demonstrated better results for woollen fabrics since the oxidation of cotton surface is not influencing direct dyestuff but reactive dyestuff uptakes that have not yet been synthesized by biotransformation. Different plasma pre-treated samples have been prepared to be used for the whole dyeing process in Lanificio Ricceri. The dyeing tests will be done on woollen fabrics

SIAR1 SIAB1 SIAY1

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 5 of 14

since acid dyestuffs have been selected for the upscale and plasma pre-treatment is effective only on reactive dyestuffs for cotton. Technical and economic data ( more details have been included in Deliverables 4.2 and 4.3) have shown the plasma pre-treatment can be effectively implemented in the production chain since it reduces dyeing production costs through chemical and energy saving.

WP5 Lanificio Ricceri has started to perform the deying tests using the pre-treated textiles and the auxiliaries produced by ACHIMO and the bio-dyes. The data obtained from the optimisation of the dyeing parameters will be used to complete the LCA analysis of the whole process. WP6 LCA analysis is focused on the comparison between the conventional dyeing process and that proposed by BISCOL project. The eco-indicators for the first step of the BISCOL project (production of different types of eco-auxiliaries for woollen textiles plus plasma pre treatment) have been calculated and compared with those calculated for the conventional process. The LCA analysis on the whole cycle is still in progress as well as the Life cycle costing analysis. Preliminary results concerning large scale dyestuff biosynthesis show that a reduction in the overall environmental impact can be already achieved at pilot scale (70 kg at a starting concentration of 0,7%) in comparison with performances obtained for solid dyes (powder) and liquid dyestuff (starting concentration 6-7%) at a final concentration of around 25-30% which is the target value for its commercial exploitation. Optimal production parameters will be shortly available and the promising results should be confirmed by the end of the project. No deviations are accordingly forecasted for WP6.

WP8

• BISCOL project has been presented at the Eco-Innovators day in Brussels (November 2012). Flyers of the BISCOL project have been printed and distributed to all partners for project dissemination.

• An article on peer-reviewed journal and different abstracts on meeting proceedings related to BISCOL project have been published.

On July 11-12, 2013 a workshop and the final report meeting will be held in Istanbul. SETAS will take care of the organization. Stakeholders and representatives of turkish Ministry of industry will be invited.

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 6 of 14

2. Identified deviations, problems and corrective actions taken in the period

KING COLOR s.r.l. - UNIPERSONALE on December 15th, 2011 has started a procedure for the liquidation of company assets. An amendment has been requested and performed on December 2012. Role of King Color has been entirely undertaken by the new candidate, Lanificio Ricceri s.r.l., willing to join the project as new Associated Beneficiary. Lanificio Ricceri s.r.l. has started its activities on the project since June 2012, as a prosecution of activities formerly carried out by King Color s.r.l. – UNIPERSONALE. The major delay on WP3 has been related to the complete installation of the software for the bioreactor and its workability by WET in SETAS. A delay in the synthesis of biodyes has been recorded. Furthermore the scale up of biodyes has recorded some problems concerning the use of industrial precursors. These have a very low price but on the other hand have a lot of impurities. A purification step has been included with some delays for the biodyes production.

Del. N°

Deliverable name

Type WP N°

Delivery date from Annex I

Delivered (yes/no) and status (draft/final)

Submission with report

Forecasted delivery date

Comments on progress

1.2 Progress, mid term and final project reports to EACI

Technical

description 1 M3,8,18,29,36 Yes, Final PR1,IR,PR2 M3,8,18,29,36 Done

1.3 Minutes of project meetings to be sent also to EACI

Work

organisation 1 M1,8,14,18,23,29,36Yes, Final PR1,IR,PR2 M1,8,14,18,23,29,36Done

3.1 Technical Data Sheet for the bio-dyes

Technical description 3 M4-M28 Yes, Final PR2 M24 Done

3.2 Report including the process parameters for the industrial production of the bio-dyes

Technical description 3 M4-M28 No PR2 M34 Slight delay

as industrial dye production has not been optimized.

4.1 Report including the process parameters for the pre-treatment by means of irradiative processes

Technical description 4 M4-M28 Yes, Final PR2 M30 Done

4.2 Technical analysis of selected pre-treatments

Technical description 4 M4-M28 Yes, Final PR2 M31 Done

4.3 Economic analysis of selected pre-treatments

Technical description 4 M4-M28 Yes, Final PR2 M31 Done

8.1 Project information updates Text, ppt 8 M12,24,36 Yes, Final M12,24 M12,24,36 Done

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 7 of 14

No deviations have been incurred during the progress report period for WP4 and WP6 from the technical point of view.

3. Progress regarding performance indicators

The Table 1 reported herein represents an overview on the preliminary performance indicators of the whole dyeing process that has been analyzed so far using the LCA approach.

Table 1. Performance Indicators for BISCOL treatment of woollen fabrics

Objective Indicators Relative Impact Relative ImpactExpected

CO2 ∼ 55% reduction 20% reduction Greenhouse gasemission

Methane1 ∼ 55% reduction 15-18% reduction

Air quality Particulate matter ∼ 53% reduction 5% reduction

Mutagenic/carcinogenic Reduction /

Toxic (Human) ∼ 97%. This value is referred to the process without considering the dye toxicity. The toxicity tests on biodyes are in progress

Waste minimization 25% reduction (total wastewater)

15-20%

Improved Environmental Performance

Waste management

Hazardous waste 15-20%

Water Reduced water consumption

58% 5-7%

Better use of natural resources

Energy Reduced energy consumption

58% 15-18%

Patents Economic Performance / Market Replication Market potential Market size in million

Euros

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 8 of 14

Market size in number of customers

Entry in newtransational markets

Entry intodifferent sectors

Reduction of costper unit or process

80 €/ton for a treatment of 500 ton/year

1 According to the Recipe method used for the analysis the contribute to fossil depletion impact category has been computed as kg of oil equivalent

The LCA on the whole dyeing process is still in progress but the following figure shows interesting results concerning the comparison between the conventional and BISCOL dyeing process. The LCC analysis on the whole dyeing process is under progress and the results will be reported with the final report.

Figure 1: Cumulative Energy Demand indicator values for 1 kg wollen fabric dyeing process.

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 9 of 14

1. Progress regarding market uptake and exploitation According to the progress achieved till the PR2 the following economic performances have been achieved:

• Plasma Pre-treatment is a promising tool to be introduced in the production chain since it promotes a significant reduction of the production costs in comparison with both the dyeing process and dyeing process combined with antifelting treatment Basolan). Dyeing of 500 tonns/year of woolen fabric is inducing a reduction of the costs in the range 40,000 (compared with the dyeing process without further conventional pre-treatment) and 170,000 euro (compared with dyeing process + conventional antifelting treatment).

• Auxiliaries set-up by ACHIMO are effective and a cost of 2-3 euro/kg is foreseen • A preliminary costs for the biodyes has been computed and it should be 2-3 euro more

than conventional dyestuffs (range 7-10 euros)

2. Work plan for the next period

1. Planned activities in the next period

WP5 - According to a quantification of the energy conservation potential of textile dyeing industry, defined in the Life Cycle Assessment, the effectiveness of the reduction of energy consumption related with slight modification of the dyeing processes will be investigated. On the basis of the work developed within task 5.1 and task 5.2, the most promising process will be validated for the production of coloured textile.

WP6 – Environmental performances of new dyeing processes developed in the project will be compared with the ones showed by classical treatments. A Life Cycle Costing analysis will be performed on classical and the new proposed dyeing processes. Assessment of the toxicity of the novel molecules of dyes and comparison with traditional dyes will be performed by the selection of toxicity tests. Finally, the performance indicators will be monitored. WP7 – Two different business plans will be created: one regarding production of bio-dyes and one regarding the whole new dyeing process.

2. Planned meetings, activities related to market uptake and dissemination activities

The final project meetings will be held from 11-12/07/2013 in SETAS (Turkey).

Results concerning the project has been disseminated by UNISI through the publication of scientific papers and in conferences dealing with chemical and enzymatic processes. Peer-reviewed papers: Martorana A., Bernini C., Valensin D., Sinicropi A., Pogni R., Basosi R. and Baratto M.C. (2011). “Insights into the homocoupling reaction of 4-methylamino benzoic acid mediated by

Trametes versicolor laccase”. Molecular BioSystems 7, 2967-2969.

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 10 of 14

Spinelli, D, Fatarella, E, Di Michele, A, Pogni, R, 2013. Immobilization of fungal (Trametes versicolor) laccase onto Amberlite IR-120 H beads: Optimization and characterization. Process Biochemistry 2013, 48, 218-223. Magazine articles: Techno Fashion 2012, vol. 34, 34-35. Title of article: “Sviluppi ecologici della nobilitazione:

il progetto Biscol”. Author: Aurora Magni. Newspaper article for the Italian journal “Corriere della Sera”, 29th April 2013. Title of

contribute: “Textile dyeing, how to reduce the impact on the environment”. Author: Manuela Messina. Newspaper article for the Italian journal “Green Report” 26 Marzo 2013. Title: “Ridurre

l’impatto ambientale della filiera del tessile? Ci prova l’ateneo di Siena, con BISCOL” Newspaper article for the Italian journal “Terranuova” 26 Marzo 2013. Title:”Ridurre l’impatto

del tessile: un progetto italiano” Newspaper article for the Italian journal “Corriere di Siena ” 26 Marzo 2013. Title: Eco-

Innovation ”Nuovo processo di tintura sui vestiti per un maggior risparmio energetico” Meeting oral contributions: Eco-innovators Day, 8th-9th November 2012, Brussels. Title of contribute: “BISCOL project:

Bioprocessing for Sustainable production of Coloured Textile”. Author: Pogni R. University of Siena, 25th March 2013 “Nuove imprese e nuove tecnologie nel settore moda:

esperienze a confront”. Title of contribute: “BISCOL project: Bioprocessing for Sustainable

production of Coloured Textile”. Author: Pogni R. Abstracts in proceedings: Environmental Microbiology and Biotechnology 2012 (EMB 2012), 10-12th April 2012, Bologna (Italy). Title of the contribute: “Synthesis of textile dyes by laccase

biotransformations”. Authors: Spinelli D., Martorana A., Baratto M.C., Basosi R. and Pogni R.

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 11 of 14

Europhysics Conference on the Atomic and Molecular Physics of Ionized Gases 2012 (ESCAMPIG 2012), 10-14th July 2012, Portugal. Title of contribute: “Sustainable finishing of

wollen fabrics by means of plasma treatment”. Authors: Fatarella E., Parisi M.L., Peruzzi F., Corsi L., Tacconi L., Basosi R. and Pogni R.

Oxyzymes, 16th-19th September 2012, Marseille. Title of contribute: IMMOBILIZED FUNGAL LACCASES FOR BIOTRANSFORMATION PROCESSES. Authors: Daniele Spinelli, Enrico Fatarella, Andrea Martorana, Caterina Bernini, Adalgisa Sinicropi, Maria Camilla Baratto, Riccardo Basosi & Rebecca Pogni.

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 12 of 14

3. Overview on hours spent The hours spent cover the period until month 27.

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Technical progress report p. 13 of 14

CIP-EIP-Eco-Innovation-2009: Pilot and market replication projects - ID: ECO/09/256112/SI2.567273 BISCOL

Technical progress report p. 14 of 14