program plus shed installation manual....the addition of roof and wall sheeting to the structure...

of 61

2015

PROGRAM PLUS SHED

INSTALLATION GUIDE

Copyright © 2015 Program Plus Pty Ltd V 2.21

PLEASE READ THIS PAGE CAREFULLY

This information is provided as a guide only. It is intended to show the recommended

method in which Program Plus standard portal framed buildings are constructed. It is

expected that the builder erecting the structure is trade qualified and experienced

with erecting portal framed buildings.

As each building is supplied and designed specifically for each site this installation

manual is not written to suit all designs. For this exercise this manual details the

construction of a gable garage. It would be expected that an experienced person

would be able to construct a building of a different size and design based on the

instructions provided in this booklet. This guideline should be used in conjunction

with the structural engineering drawings as provided to council along with site

specific bill of materials provided to the customer at the time of delivery.

This information is not, and should not be used as a construction manual, Safety

Manual, Standard Operating procedure or material Safety Data Sheet.

It is important to be aware of the following:

Before erecting your building, please check that all local government requirements

such as Building Applications and Development Applications are adhered to.

If you are constructing your own building check with the Department of Fair Trading

or State Building Authority to qualify if you require an Owners Building Permit.

If you are contracting a trade’s person to erect your building, check with your State

Building Authority to qualify if they need to be licensed. If a license is required ask to

see a current copy and also check that all the builders’ insurances policies are current.

It is of the utmost importance to follow all safety recommendations of the Work

cover Authority. Do not work on the building or walk on the roof sheeting in damp or

frosty conditions.

Remember when erecting your building in your backyard it becomes a worksite.

Always ensure that anyone on the worksite conducts themselves in a manner

according to the requirements of the Work cover Authority.


Contents

General notes 4

Structure components 7

Brackets 8

General Shed Terms 12

Small Accessory Items 13

Roofing and Wall Cladding Profiles 14

Gutter Profiles and accessories 15

Tools Required 16

Site Preparation 17

Slab and Reinforced Footing Beam Layout 17

Footing layout 18

Setting Out the Hold Down Base Plates 20

Portal Frame Assembly 22

Construction Bracing 24

Portal Frame Erection 25

Purlins and Girts 26

Roof Purlins when supplied “Z” sections 27

Wall Girts when supplied 64mm Tophat Sections 27

Wall Girts when supplied “Z” Sections 27

End Wall Girts 28

Fly Bracing 29

Cross Bracing 30

Fitting Trim Angle to Raking Girts 31

Skillions Portal Frame Connection to Main Gable Frame 31

Roller Door Side Wall Mullion Assembly 32

Roller Door End Wall Insertion 33

Handling and Cutting of Roof Sheeting 38

Roofing & Wall Sheeting 38

End Wall Sheeting 40

Translucent Sheeting 41

Barge Capping 41

Ridge Cap 41

Trims 41

Corner Trims 42

Fitment of Gutters 42

Roller Door Installation 43

Personnel Access Door Installation 47

Window Installation Procedure 52

Window Assembly 52

Sliding Track & Door Assembly 56


Generalnotes

Program Plus Building Designs are fully engineered and must be constructed utilizing the Bill of Materials,

Engineered Drawings and this Instruction Manual. It is important to read and understand all of these

documents in their entirety prior to commencing any work on the building. This includes identifying all structural

sections, fixings, brackets, plates, strapping, screw bolts, guttering, sheeting and custom made flashing

materials.

Please confirm with your salesperson that the erection plans and Bill of Materials are current with the products

supplied. Older plans will be outdated and unsuitable for the construction of your building.

DocumentsRequired

Please ensure that you have received all of the following documents prior to commencement. Without the

following documents it will be difficult to construct your building.

• Copy of building approval from your local authority.

• Relevant state engineers certification certificate

• Copy of Program Plus Pty Ltd Structural Engineering Certified Drawings to construct the building.

• Structural Engineering Report.

• Detailed Foundation Engineering Report

• Copy of the Bill of Materials.

Sample Copy of Engineers Building Certification for your local council


Sample Copy of certified engineering drawings applicable for your building

Sample Copy of Bill of Materials


Sample Hold down Bolt Set-Out Plan/ Slab Foundation Pages

NOTE: The use of an asterisk ( * ) is standard throughout this manual and indicates a numerical value

such a section size, bracket size or mark number of a component as per your certified erection

drawings. (E.g. MV*** may indicate the use of a C250 vertical mullion or PLBASE*** may indicate

PLBASE100 is to be used.)

Please refer to your Bill of materials and the certified drawings for your shed’s specific requirements.


A competent person is required to construct this building from this manual and erection drawings which

provides the relevant information to do so.

Construction bracing is critical when erecting the framing as it ensures the framing will withstand the usual

forces encountered during all stages of construction.

Portals cannot be relied upon to remain standing during the construction process using column base plates

alone. Relying on column base plates without using the recommended construction bracing could result with

the frame collapsing.

The addition of roof and wall sheeting to the structure provides stability and structural support to the building

once it has been completely erected. Therefore this bracing will need to be substituted during the construction

process with suitable supports (Acro props under portal frame apex plates) until the building is completely

erected.

Checking the Bill of Materials (BOM)

The Bill of Materials (manufacturers Delivery Advice) should be qualified within as per Metroll Terms and

Conditions. Any missing items after that period will become the responsibility of the owner.

It is important to locate and check lengths and sizes, thickness, colours and quantities of all products within the

BOM against what has been supplied. The BOM has a stock description, quantity and length/unit column

which is clearly labelled under each stock category.

All major structural products are labelled/marked in accordance with the BOM, these will include purlins, girts,

top hat sections and plates for connections.

Structurecomponents

1. Left & Right Hand Eaves Girt Brackets- Connects the eave fascia purlin to the top of the column utilising

2 flanged head structural purlin bolts.

2. Left & Right Hand Haunch Plates - connect the rafters to the columns.

3. Apex Plate- Joins the rafters together at the centerline of the roof.

4. End Column to Rafter Plate (sometimes known as smiley plates) - connect the end wall columns to the

end wall rafter.

5. Extended Roller Door Mullion plate- Connect the header mullion to the open flange of a column.

6. Column Base Plate-Connect the column to the footing or concrete slab.

7. Left & Right Hand Inverted Haunch Plate- Connects the column to a rafter either in a skillion carport or

side skillion design of a main gable shed.

8. Roller Door Support Bracket - is screwed to the vertical roller door mullion that runs from floor level to

rafter, positioned to mount the roller door brackets that support the roller door drum axle.

9. Roller Door Mullion Brackets - used to join the horizontal and vertical door mullions.


Brackets

Fascia Eaves Girt Brackets

L HAND EAVE GIRT BRACKET

CODE: PLFAS***L

PL = PLATE

FAS = FASCIA

*** = PURLIN & GIRT SIZE

L = LEFT HAND PLATE

EAVE GIRT BRACKET JOINER

CODE: PLFAS***J

PL = PLATE

FAS = FASCIA


J = ASSEMBLY/JOINER

R HAND EAVE GIRT BRACKET

CODE: PLFAS***R

PL = PLATE

FAS = FASCIA


R = RIGHT HAND PLATE

Gable Portal Frame Connection Plates


Inverted Haunch Plates

R HAND INVERTED HAUNCH

CONNECTION BRACKET

CODE: PLHINV***C***R*DR

PL = PLATE

HINV = HAUNCH PLATE INVERTED

***C = COLUMN SIZE

***R = RAFTER SIZE

*D = ROOF PITCH

R = RIGHT HAND

L HAND INVERTED HAUNCH

CONNECTION BRACKET

CODE: PLHINV***C***R*DL

PL = PLATE

HINV = HAUNCH PLATE INVERTED

***C = COLUMN SIZE

***R = RAFTER SIZE

*D = ROOF PITCH

R = LEFT HAND

END COLUMN TO RAFTER

BRACKET

CODE: PLIC2R***R

PL = PLATE

IC = INTERNAL COLUMN

2 = TO

R = RAFTER

***R = RAFTER SIZE

FASCIA TO RAFTER STANDARD

INVERTED EAVE BRACKET

CODE: PFBSTIV***E*D*

PF = PLATE FASCIA

BST = BOARD STANDARD

IV = INVERTED

V*** = COLUMN SIZE

E* = ROOF PITCH

D* = LEFT OR RIGHT HAND

100mm COLUMN BASE

PLATE

CODE: PLCBASE100C

PL = PLATE

CBASE = COLUMN BASE

100C = COLUMN SIZE


Base Plates

L HAND ROLLER DOOR Z MULLION TO

RAFTER CONNECTION BRACKET

CODE: PLVMCB***L***D

PL = PLATE

VM = VERTICAL MULLION

CB = CONNECTION BRACKET

*** = MULLION SIZE

L = LEFT HAND

**D = ROOF PITCH

R HAND ROLLER DOOR Z MULLION TO

RAFTER CONNECTION BRACKET

CODE: PLVMCB***R***D

PL = PLATE

VM = VERTICAL MULLION

CB = CONNECTION BRACKET

*** = MULLION SIZE

L = RIGHT HAND

**D = ROOF PITCH


L HAND ROLLER DOOR HEADER

MULLION CONNECTION BRACKET

CODE: PLRDHMBRKT***LH

PL = PLATE

RDHMBRKT = ROLLER DOOR HEADER

MULLION BRACKET

*** = MULLION SIZE

LH = LEFT HAND

R HAND ROLLER DOOR HEADER

MULLION CONNECTION BRACKET

CODE: PLRDHMBRKT***LH

PL = PLATE

RDHMBRKT = ROLLER DOOR HEADER

MULLION BRACKET

*** = MULLION SIZE

RH = RIGHT HAND

ROLLER DOOR VERTICAL MULLION CONNECTION PLATE

CODE: PLDRM***M***G***E

PL = PLATE

RDM = ROLLER DOOR MULLION

***M = Z VERTICAL MULLION PURLIN SIZE

***G = Z WALL GIRT SIZE

***E = C EAVE PURLIN SIZE


GeneralShedTerms

1. Apex Plate - Joins the two opposing rafters together and is the highest point of the shed portal frame

2. Haunch Plate/ Knee plate - Joins the roof opposing side rafters to opposing side columns to complete

portal frame.

3. Roller Door Vertical Mullions and Header - Join to make roller door surrounds and connect to the main

portal frame to support the roller door assembly

4. Column Base plate - Connects the portal frame to the foundation.

5. Intermediate Column - Supports and joins the center intermediate rafters.

6. Wall Girts -This connects the wall sheets to the portal frames. Wall girts run along the length of the

structure and are fixed to the frame. This section is normally 64mm top hats for small bay spacing’s or “Z”

sections used in larger bay spacing’s.

7. End Wall Girts- This connects the wall sheets to the end wall columns. End wall girts run across the width

of the structure fixed to the frame with Teks® screw for 64mm top hat girts or 12mm flanged structural

bolts and nuts for “Z” section girts. This section is normally 64mm Tophats for small bay spacing’s or “Z”


8. Fascia Eave Girt Purlin - These sections fix the wall sheets to the roof sheets. Connects to the upper

column with 2 structural engineering bolts and nuts.

9. Roof Purlin - This connects the roof sheeting to the portal frame. Roof purlins run along the entire length

of the structure fixed to the frame with Tek® screws for 64mm top hat girts or 12mm flanged structural

bolts and nuts for “Z” section girts. This section is normally 64mm top hats for small bay spacing’s or “Z”


10. End Wall Columns - Used to support the end wall rafters and end wall girts. The column is typically “C”

section connected to the rafter with a column to rafter plate (smiley plate) and a base plate to the

foundation.

11. PA Door - Is the terminology for a Personnel Access Door.

12. Fly Bracing - Steel pre-bent strapping that ties Purlin and Girts to the Portal Frame and End Wall

Columns

13. Strap Bracing - Thin steel strap used to diagonally tension Portal Framing, particularly during

construction. Generally supplied on a roll and is fixed in both roof and walls with Tek® screws. Typically

required on buildings over 3 bays in length.


SmallAccessoryItems

Teks® Screws, different length Teks® screws are used for different applications.

This Screw has no neoprene washers to the underside of the hex head, generally used internally for the frame:

• Roofing Teks® screws with Neoprene washer fitted to the underside of the head, used for fixing roof and

wall sheeting.

• Wall Teks® screws are used to pan fixed wall sheeting to girt.

• Wafer Head screws are used for attaching the gutter general purpose bracket to the fascia purlin.

• Cyclonic Assembly Tek® screws are used to screw roofing and walling required by local governing

authorities to meet cyclonic wind conditions.

• Flanged purlin bolts connect the base plates to columns, Haunch and Apex plates, and purlins and girt to

main portal frames.

• Rivets, small fastener used to fasten gutter stop ends, guttering and downpipes.


RoofingandWallCladdingProfiles

• Trimclad® Roofing and Wall Sheeting

• Corodek® Roofing and Wall Sheeting

• Metroclad® Wall Sheeting


GutterProfilesandaccessories

• Metroline® Square Gutter

• Metroline® Square Gutter General Purpose Bracket

• Metroline ® Square Gutter Stop End

• Quad Gutter

• Quad Gutter General Purpose Bracket

• Quad Gutter Stop End

• Downpipe drops or commonly known as pops connect the gutter to the downpipe


ToolsRequired

• Extension and step ladder

• Extension leads

• Reversible drill

• Spirit level

• String Lines

• Tape Measure (long enough for your job)

• Concrete Hammer Drill

• Set out pegs

• Drill bits for concrete (e.g. 12mm or 16mm depending on hold down bolts)

• Electric Drill (at least half inch chuck)

• Good rope and star pickets to help brace frame

• Tin snips (left and right handed)

• Nibbler or shears to cut openings

• Spanners and general hand tools

• Wood saw

• One piece 4" x 2" timber at about 300mm long (for damming sheets)

• Tek screw Gun & adapters, drill bits

• Pop rivet gun

• Silicon and silicon gun

• Set square

• Builders pencil

• Agro props one for each portal (to support apex of portals during construction)

Do It Yourself – Slabs

Materials

• Concrete

• Mesh (whatever recommended e.g. F62)

• Plastic for under slab.

• Mesh stools to hold mesh at correct height. (bar chairs)

• Water available on site.

Tools

• Formwork - Can be purchased from your distributor.

• Trowel's for finishing and edging.

• Helicopter - Hire from local hire agent.

• Bull float - Hire from local hire agent.

• Mud Barrow- Hire from local hire agent.

• String lines to set out slab.

• Steel pegs to hold up string lines and form boards.

• Leveling pegs for setting height of concrete in middle of slab.

• Shovels to help spread concrete.

• Screening board to hold float of concrete.

• Compactor - Hire from local hire agent.

Set-up

• Level to help get site correct (dumpy or laser - from local hire)

• Compact if site is new fill or loose soil.

• Set out string lines to slab size(check diagonal measurements are equal)

• Mark out and dig footing holes.


SitePreparation

It is important when forming the foundation slab for your building to allow sufficient space for machinery such

as scissor lifts and cranes to operate safely. A leveled area around the shed slab of approximately 4-5 meters

would be adequate to provide a safe and accessible working space.

When your building pad is finally prepared it should be level, compacted and clear of any obstructions. The

layout of the footings/foundations should be clearly defined using profile pegs and string lines.

SlabandReinforcedFootingBeamLayout

The measurements found within the plans are the exterior measurements to be used for the slab. It is

important to take into account, when a partial slab is used, the slab measurements need to accommodate a

dividing wall, girts and internal columns if the sheeting for the dividing wall is to overhang the slab or be

positioned below slab level.

• Establish the parameters of the building slab layout starting from the bottom left hand side of your plan.

• Place the first profile peg approximately 1 metre outside the bottom left hand side of the slab then run the

string line to the bottom right hand side of the shed slab allowing for slab length plus say 2mtrs. This string

line will represent the bottom side of your shed on your building plan.

• Referring to your plan, position a profile stand 1 metre below the left hand bottom corner of your plan then

run the string line to the top left hand side of the shed slab allowing for slab length plus say 2mtrs. This

string line will represent the left side of your shed on your building plan.

• To establish the top edge of the slab of your building plan repeat the slab process as follows:

• Place the first profile peg approximately 1 metre outside the top left hand corner of the slab then run the

string line to the top right hand side of the shed slab allowing for slab length plus say 2mtrs. This string line

will represent the top side of your shed on your building plan.

• Referring to your plan position a profile stand 1 metre above the right hand top corner of your plan then run

the string line down to the bottom right hand side of the shed slab allowing for slab length plus say 2mtrs.

This string line will represent the right side of your shed on your building plan.

• To check that all corners of the profile lines are at 90 degrees to each other, diagonally check the

measurement from one corner to another to qualify the measurements are the same, if not adjust until both

measurements are equal.

• Next locate and mark your Roller door jamb footings.

• If a lean-to/skillion is included in the shed design repeat the above and mark the footings.

• Ground spray should be used to mark out your footings prior to digging

• Periodically check your footings centres with string lines and re-measure each footing as you progress to

ensure that each trench is correct to the engineer plans.

• Next, box the perimeter edge of your slab ensuring that the sides are square and in line with your string

lines previously set out.

• Inlay a plastic liner and your selected mesh as specified by your engineer to suit the soil requirements.

• Have a council inspector or certifier; inspect slab preparation prior to pouring.

• After slab inspection has been granted you may pour your slab and footings.

• During the pouring of the slab periodically check to ensure all boxing has been maintained in line with your

string lines, adjust if necessary.


Footinglayout

Establish the basic parameters of your building, the exterior measurements are exactly the overall

measurements given on the plans for the positioning of the sheeting.

• Establish the parameters of the building layout starting from the bottom left hand side of your plan.

• Place the first profile peg approximately 1 meter outside the bottom left hand side of the building column

center’s then run the string line to the bottom right hand side of the shed allowing for building length plus

say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the bottom side column center line on your footing plan.

• Referring to your plan position a profile stand 1 meter below the left hand bottom corner of your plan then

run the string line to the top left hand side of the shed allowing for building length plus say 2mtrs. This

string line will represent the left side of your shed column centers line on your footing plan.

• To establish the top building column center line of your footing plan repeat the process as follows.

• Place the first profile peg approximately 1 meter outside the top left hand side of the building column

center line then run the string line to the top right hand side of the shed allowing for building length plus

say 2mtrs. This string line will represent the top side of your column center line on your footing plan.

• Referring to your plan, position a profile stand 1 meter above the right hand top corner of your plan then

run the string line down to the bottom right hand side of the shed allowing for building length plus say

2mtrs. This string line will represent the right side of your shed column center line on your footing plan.

• To check that all profile lines are at 90 degrees to each other, diagonally check the measurement from one

corner to another to qualify the measurements are the same, if not adjust until both measurements are

equal.

• Using your footing plan for both top and bottom center lines mark your footing center as per the given

measurements, the last measurement should be the center line of the right hand side profile string line.

• Again, repeat this process in conjunction with your footing plan for skillion/lean-to.

• Use spray type paint prior to digging footings to assist in directing your auger.

• Always leave your corner profile pegs to assist when pouring your footings so as to locate the footing

positions and height.

• Footings must comply with engineering specification requirements as supplied by your certified engineer to

suit your soil compaction test.

• Whilst digging your footings, ensure all debris is cleared from the top and base of the footing holes.

• Periodically check your footings center’s with string lines and re-measure each footing as you progress to

ensure that each is correct to the engineer plans.

• Obtain an engineer or council certifier prior to pouring the footings.

• When the concrete truck is on site, ensure to maintain an adequate separation between the truck and the

footing holes to prevent collapsing

• Pour your footings. Whilst pouring the cement ensure you maintain adequate support of the reinforcing

steel. There should be a minimum 50mm cover of reinforcing over all surfaces.

• The use of a dumpy level is recommended whilst pouring to ensure the correct portioning is being

dispatched to each hole so that final leveling is not a major task.

• Immediately following the departure of the concrete truck check your footing levels, adjust if required.

• Re-establish your profile lines tightly then mark the center line for the column center and spacing by

troweling the intersecting point on the top of the footing pad by utilizing a cement trowel point.


Typicalpierdetail

• Use the bolt set-out plan to mark all footings for the placement of your footing bolts.

• Once complete, re-check all bolt spacing’s and footing levels.

• Allow the correct curing time for your footing to mature before assembly.


SettingOuttheHoldDownBasePlates

Column Base Plates can now be fitted to the slab or footing. Use the correct size masonry drill; carefully drill

the hole in the marked position. The depth of the drilled hole should be the screw bolt length plus the 2 times

the screw bolt diameter.

Screw bolts are designed to function correctly within DIN standards. The drill diameter must be the same size

as the root diameter of the screw bolt being used.


Use a high torque hammer drill to firmly tighten screw bolts into the slab or footing taking care not to over

tighten which may result in snapping off the bolt head. Ensure a continual pressure is applied to the hammer

drill at all times.

During installation, debris or dust may be created by the threads cutting action which may cause screwing

resistance. To overcome this, unscrew one or more turns before continuing to full embedment.

Using a chalk line, you can mark the slab as per the measurements on the hold down plan as above.

With the chalk line, mark the center of the first hole of your hold down plates from the edge of the slab down

one side of your concrete as per your plan. Next mark the second bolt hole of the same hold down plate from

the edge of slab.

Repeat the process on the opposite side of the slab. Next mark from the center of your first bolt holes to the

center to bolt holes on the opposite side of the slab. Repeat the process on the opposite end of the slab.

Mark the center portal hold down plate position from one side of the slab to the other.


PortalFrameAssembly

• Utilize your Bill of Materials to identify and layout your portal columns, rafters, apex plate, haunch plates in

the shape of the building with the flanges of the “C” flanges facing up.

Note: End wall portal frames will sometimes utilize different apex plates and rafters to accommodate

intermediate end wall columns. These can be identified by extra holes along the web face of the apex

plate. In some cases where an end wall column is to be utilized, the apex plate will have a section

notched out on the flange on the bottom of the plate to accept the end wall column.

• Position the two rafter beams over the top of the apex plate aligning the corresponding holes and

assembling the structural bolts in the holes provided

• When constructing the end wall portal, the end wall apex plates on some designs will have a notch section

in the apex plate to receive the end wall mullion.

• Fit the haunch plates and eave girt fascia brackets to the columns then bolt the rafter using the structural

purlin bolts as supplied and hand tighten.


• Locate and fit base plates to columns. Hand tighten again.

• Please check that the frame assembly measurements are correct as this may save time later if you have

selected the incorrect components.

• With the main portal frame, correctly tighten all structural bolts with a pneumatic torque wrench.

• Repeat this procedure until all portal frames are assembled.

• Assemble each portal frame in the prone position and “stack” each portal on top of the previous one, this is

done to assist with ensuring each frame matches dimensionally and is metrically square. As in the figure

above.

• Assemble and mark the end wall rafters and columns at the same time. These are generally a smaller

member size than the main rafter.


ConstructionBracing

WARNING: Construction bracing is critical when erecting the framing as it ensures the framing will

withstand the usual forces encountered during all stages of construction.

Portals cannot be relied upon to remain standing during the construction process using column base plates

alone. Relying on column base plates without using the recommended construction bracing could result with

the frame collapsing.

The addition of roof and wall sheeting to the structure provides stability and structural support to the building

once it has been completely erected. Therefore this bracing needs to be substituted during the construction

process with suitable supports (Agro props under portal frame apex plates) until the building is completely

erected.

Factors that determine the above will include the building size, the wind region and any other factors that may

jeopardize erection completion.

It is absolutely essential to apply fixed bracing to both ends plus every second portal. This will be deemed to

be the absolute minimum fitted bracing requirement. In addition to this, all sides must be braced in both

directions.

When a portal frame is standing unsupported the frame will deflect slightly within its own weight. To overcome

the sag or downward deflection, utilization of an agro prop will camber the portal to the required height

depending upon portal span.

To counteract the deflection whilst assembling a portal frame, when propping allow 6mm for 1 meter of portal

span. E.g. 9 meter portal span will require 45 mm over correction to counteract the downward force when

assembly is completed.


PortalFrameErection

• The most important factor when considering the crane type required to achieve erection of the portals,

reach must be considered in lieu of weight.

• Always utilize fabric slings as this will prevent damage to the frame and are more conversant than chains

due to slippage.

• Before starting, ensure you have sufficient fixed bracing available onsite for the full shed and ready to use.

• Start at one end of the building; lift the first portal into place.

• Always support the rafter by utilizing two lifting points at the haunch plates plus additional support half way

between the apex and the portal end.

• When lifting don’t allow for the columns to make contact with the footings or slab until such time they are

placed directly onto the footing plates.

• Do not release the portal until the portal frame is secured and properly braced and the base plate bolts

have been tightened and agro props are in place. (Note: over propping to a small degree is desired as this

will assist in preventing roof sag in the construction process.)

• Fix bracing to the top of the columns/haunch plate as well as the rafter near the apex plate.

• Utilize a spirit level on the columns to ensure that they are level vertically.

• After the fixed bracing has been fixed release the lifting slings from the portal frame.

• Stand the second portal, fit structural bolts to base plates and fix bracing in the same method as end

portal.

• To both sides of portal fit center roof purlins and eave purlins then proceed to fit the remainder purlins and

girts until that total section is complete.

• Proceed to the third portal, attach the portal to the base plates and fix bracing to columns and apex,

reminder that every second portal must be braced as per the end portal frame.

• Continue this procedure until all portals are stood, ensuring that the fixed bracing, purlins and girts are

fitted to every portal as it is erected.

• Fit fly bracing and cross bracing to roof and walls as per the engineering drawings supplied.

• After all portals have been completed with all purlins, girts, cross bracing, fly bracing fitted you will be

required to torque all structural bolts to 40 ft pounds.


PurlinsandGirts

Roof Purlins when supplied 64mm Tophat sections

When Tophat sections are provided they are marked on the BOM so as to give an indication as to how many

go in each bay. The Tophats themselves will not be physically marked.

The top (apex) roof purlin is to be fixed (Tek® Screwed) as per the engineering drawings close to the ridge

line.

The bottom purlin is to be fixed (Tek® screwed) as per the engineering drawing distance from the eaves girt

purlin.

The remaining of the roof purlins are to be spaced evenly between the bottom purlin and the ridge line purlin

and fixed (Tek® screwed) as per the engineering drawings supplied.

When the building consists of multiple lengths per length of building the Top hat purlins supplied should be

lapped in accordance with the drawing supplied. (Other words lapped 250mm either side of rafter).

Purlin Lapping


RoofPurlinswhensupplied“Z”sections

All “Z” sections utilized for wall girts and roof purlins are punched in the flange with structural bolts and nuts

provided to bolt to the portal frame, please refer to the engineering drawings provided for location reference.

The top roof purlin is fixed utilizing holes punched in the rafter spaced to accommodate roof screws for fixing

the sheeting and ridge cap.

The eaves purlin is spaced and fixed utilizing holes punched in the rafter to accommodate the roof screws for

fixing the sheeting adjacent to the eaves gutter.

Intermediate purlins are spaced in accordance to the local wind region, terrain, topography and importance

level.

WallGirtswhensupplied64mmTophatSections

The eave girt bracket is mounted in position to the top flange of the column with 2 structural engineering bolts.

The eaves girt fascia purlin projects outward past the column to the same distance height of the wall girts and

projects upwards to the same distance height of the roof purlins. The eaves girt purlins are fitted with the open

“C” flanges facing inwards towards the interior of the building. The eaves girt purlin fits over the eaves girt

fascia bracket utilizing 2 structural engineering bolts. The eaves girt purlins that require being a continuous run

fit to the middle bays of your building exactly to the center of each column. The ends protrude past the end

column to the same height as the end wall girts.

When Tophat sections are provided they are marked on the BOM so as to give an indication as to how many

go in each bay. The Tophats themselves will not be physically marked. The bottom wall girt is to be fixed (Tek

screwed) as per the engineering drawing distance 200mm above the finished floor level height.

The remainder of the wall girts are to be fixed (Tek Screwed) spaced evenly between the eave/fascia and the

bottom girt. When the building consists of multiple lengths per length of building the Top hat girts supplied

should be lapped in accordance with the drawing supplied. (Lapped 250mm either side of rafter)

WallGirtswhensupplied“Z”Sections

The eave girt bracket is mounted in position to the top flange of the column with 2 structural engineering bolts.

The eaves girt fascia purlin projects outward past the column to the same distance height of the wall girts and

projects upwards to the same distance height of the roof purlins. The eaves girts are fitted with the open “C”

flanges facing inwards towards the interior of the building. The eaves girt purlin fits over the eaves girt fascia

bracket utilizing 2 structural engineering bolts. The eaves girt purlins that require being a continuous run fit to

the middle bays of your building exactly to the center of each column. The ends protrude past the end column

to the same distance out as the end wall girts.

All “Z” sections utilized for wall girts are punched in the flange to accommodate the structural engineering bolts

and nuts provided to bolt to the portal frame column, please refer to the engineering drawings provided for

location reference.

Intermediate purlins are spaced and bolted to the column in accordance to the local wind region, terrain,

topography and importance level

The bottom wall girt is fixed utilizing holes punched in the column as per the engineering drawing distance

200mm above the finished floor level to accommodate the wall screws for fixing the sheeting adjacent to the

floor.


EndWallGirts

The end wall girts attach to the end of the corner column and overlap on the flange with the opposing wall girt.

In some instances the end wall girts, positioning will clash with the heads of the flange purlin bolts used on

haunch plate connection. Two options are available either notch the flange of the Z / top-hat wall girt to allow

passage or drill holes in the wall girt to allow it fix in the same positioned as the bolts used in the haunch plate

connection.

When the wall is sheeted to the ground level, the sheeting is fixed to a girt running 200mm adjacent to the floor

surface.

All girts are to be spaced to the predetermined distance nominated on the engineering assembly drawings,

additional girts are provided on the end wall where the distance above the eave/fascia purlin to the apex

exceeds the maximum allowable girt spacing.

Wall sheeting fixing at the roof line is screwed to the racking girt that is fixed to the bottom side of the purlins. A

small angle (trim angle) is provided to minimize unsupported sheeting.

EaveGirtPurlin

The Eave Girt Purlin is mounted to the eaves girt fascia bracket which is attached to the column utilizing 2

holes provided on the external flange. The eaves girt brackets projects past the outer flanges of the column to

the same height of the purlin and girt provided. The eaves girt are fitted with the open section of the “C” facing

inwards the interior of the building. Fascia purlin bolts are utilized to make the connection.


FlyBracing

For location of fly bracing refer to the engineering structural drawing supplied. The structural fly bracing is pre-

cut and bent to the required length and is fixed by using TEK 14-20 x22 screws. The strap needs to be fixed so

that no lateral movement is evident, taught not loose.


CrossBracing

Please refer to the engineering drawings for the location of cross bracing. The structural cross bracing is

utilised with strap material 32mm wide and fixed by using TEK 14-20 x 22 screws. The cross bracing is

attached to the apex point of the shed rafter and attached diagonally to the opposing column top and stretched

underneath the purlins and screwed to the bottom of the purlin as the strap crosses the bay width .

Sequence of fitment as follows:

• Fix the cross brace with 1 screw at the apex of the rafter.

• Stretch the bracing tight by fixing a screw in the strap at the column end utilising a claw hammer to tension

the strap.

• Fix the cross brace with 2 screws at the column end of the opposing rafter whilst holding tension.

• Place the second screw in the rafter at the apex.

• Fix 2 screws to each cross point to the underside of the roof purlin.

• Repeat the process when applying the opposing diagonal cross brace to the same bay.

• Complete the same process with the next bay requiring cross bracing.


FittingTrimAngletoRakingGirts

• Angle trim is provided to support the end wall and internal sheeting which is to be fixed level to the

underside of the purlins.

• Fit the angle trim to the top side edge of the roof purlins utilizing 1 TEK 14 – 20 x 22 screws per purlin.

• The angle trim is to extend from the apex of the building to the fascia eave girt.

• Always lap join the angle trimmer over a purlin with a minimum lap of 200mm.

SkillionsPortalFrameConnectiontoMainGableFrame

• Fit the reverse haunch bracket utilizing the holes provided to the main gable columns with structural

engineering bolts provided.

• Fit the column base connector plates to the skillion columns

• Fit the haunch plates the top of the skillion columns.

• Fit the skillion rafter to the skillion rafter haunch plate and tighten all structural bolts connecting column to

all connection plates.

• Lift into position the skillion rafter column assembly and connect to the inverted haunch plate fixed to the

main gable column using structural engineering bolts provided, and then tighten.

• Then apply temporary support bracings to the skillion portal frame assembly before proceeding to the next

skillion frame assembly.

• Repeat the process to construct the next assembly.


RollerDoorSideWallMullionAssembly

All roller door vertical mullions are “Z” sections. These sections are to be placed with wider flange of the Z

section extended with the lip forward to the internal side of the portal with the narrow lip of the “Z” Section

positioned to receive the wall girts on either side of the roller door opening. As per Figure 1 Below.

• The z mullions are attached to the foundation with the PLBASE*** plate via screw bolts supplied and 2

structural bolts per mullion, The vertical roller door mullions extend from the foundation to the fascia or

rafter purlin depending on positioning. Vertical mullions are marked MV*. As in figure 4 below.

• The base plate size is dependant on the size of the roller door to be fitted. The following provides a

general overview of the plate that will be supplied for each set of vertical mullions.

1. Domestic door up to 3000mm high x 3150mm wide will have Z150 vertical mullions, the base plate

for these mullions is PLBASE150.

2. Wind-lock door up to 3000mm high x 3150mm wide will have Z150 vertical mullions the base plate

for these mullions is PLBASE150.

3. Industrial door up to 5100mm high x 5100mm wide will have Z250 vertical mullions, the base

plates for these mullions is PLBASE250.

• There are two different types of roller door headers used in the roller door surrounds.

1. Type one is an open lip ‘C’ section. These are used in the case of small domestic sheds and an

extend support for wall sheeting is not required.

2. Type two is a standard “C’ purlin. These are used on most shed designs where extended wall

sheet support is required to meet the offset of the wall girts.

• Where the “C” purlin roller door header is being used the section is placed between the leading edge

flanges of each of the vertical “Z” mullions with the open side of the section facing up toward the fascia or

rafter. This section will protrude past the leading edge of the Z mullion flange to provide support for the

sheeting over the top of the roller door opening and is joined via an angle brackets RDHMBRKT***RH and

RDHMBRKT***LH to each vertical mullion with 4 structural bolts. Roller door header sections are marked

MH*.

• Where the open lip “C” roller door header section is used this section will also be placed between the

leading flanges of each of the vertical mullions with the open side of the section facing up toward the fascia

or rafter. This section will sit flush with the leading edge of the Z mullions to provide support for the

sheeting over the top of the roller door opening and is joined via an angle bracket RDHMBRKT***RH and

RDHMBRKT***LH to each vertical mullion with 4 structural bolts. Roller door header sections are marked

MH*

• The header brackets RDHMBRKT***RH and RDHMBRKT***LH are to be attached to the vertical roller

door mullion prior to positioning. Place the wider part of the bracket on the internal side vertical mullion

with the narrow portion of the bracket extending along the leading edge of the vertical mullion ( purlin

flange)positioned to connect to the inside of the open lip “c” section or “c” purlin roller door header. As per

figure 2.

• The bottom of the roller door header is the height from the ground equal to the nominated door height. The

roller door should be fitted so the bottom edge of the door curtain retracts to an open position 50mm below

the header mullion.

• In all cases refer to the roller door manufactures instruction manual for the fitment and positioning of the

roller door brackets


RollerDoorEndWallInsertion

• The vertical roller door mullions extend from the foundation to the end wall rafter purlins when an end wall

configuration is to be used. Depending on the size of the roller door to be inserted it may be necessary to

“notch” the haunch plates on the end wall portal to allow the vertical mullions passage to connect to the

portal rafter. This “notching” can be achieved with the use of an angle grinder and removing the section of

the return lip of the underside of the haunch plate. As shown in Figure 5.

• In most cases of end wall door insertion the end wall support mullion has removed as the roller door

support mullion will provide the required support in place of the end wall support mullion. This is dependent

on the quantity and size of doors used in the end wall.

Figure 1.


Figure 2 - View from External Side of Shed


Figure 3 - Side wall componet positioning for roller door insertion.


Figure 4 - Roller surrounds for side wall roller door insertion


Figure 5

Haunch plate notched on the return fold to allow connection of “Z” mullion to rafter with PLVMC***L**D

connection bracket.

Note only the return fold of the haunch plate requires notching. This notching is only to be the correct width to

match the width of the “Z’ section. The web of the “Z’ mullion is to be in contact with the web of the haunch

plate.


HandlingandCuttingofRoofSheeting

For safety, wear gloves when handling Roofing & Walling. Ensure your hands or gloves are clean, especially

when handling Zincalume© sheeting which can mark. Use a coloured pencil for marking steel, as lead or black

pencils contain graphite which promotes rusting.

Roofing and Wall sheeting is best cut using tin snips, but for larger cuts it may be necessary to use a power

saw with a steel cutting blade or a power nibbler. Avoid using abrasive discs as they can cause burred edges

and coating damage. Where possible cut sheets on the ground, and always clean off any swarf and metal

filings progressively during the installation. Dispose of off-cuts carefully.

Roofing&WallSheeting

• All fasteners used to secure roof & wall sheeting must have neoprene washers.

• For Trimclad each pan requires one fastener. Four* (4) wall screws per full sheet per wall girt

perpendicular to the sheeting and adjacent to the wall profile crest.

• For Corodek each pan requires one fastener. Five* (5) wall screws per full sheet per wall girt perpendicular

to the sheeting and adjacent to the wall profile crest.

• Wall sheeting should be laid into the prevailing wind and sit neatly on the preceding roof sheet, as shown

in the laying procedure below. They should be fixed at the recommended support spacing’s.

• Avoid ‘stretching' the width of the sheet when installing, as this could allow wind and rain to enter.

• Wall sheeting should be fixed on the side wall as soon as possible as this provides excellent bracing to a

partially built building.

*This amount may vary in cyclonic areas.

• Due to its higher rib height, flashing turn downs into the pan of Trimclad should always be notched around

the rib to provide maximum weather tightness. Pan fixing is only suitable for walling, carport and veranda

applications or where weather tight roofing is not essential.

• When spans exceed 900mm for roofing or 1200mm for walling, it is recommended the side laps are fixed

at mid-span to ensure a weatherproof seal and to secure the overlap, especially when the roof is walked

on occasionally. Use either 8 x 12mm self-drill stitching screws or 3.2mm sealed blind rivets.

• On roofing, at the end of the sheets, the pans should be turned up at the crest of the roof and down into

the gutter using a turn up/down tool.

• On walling take particular care to level your first and second sheets, and then check every couple of

sheets from there on with a spirit level to maintain a vertical level.


Fixing Trimclad Roof and Wall Sheeting to your new structure

ROOFING

Crest fixing

WALLING

Pan fixing

Fixing to Steel

Self drilling and tapping

screw with neoprene

washer

TEK HX 12-14x50 Neo Zacs4


Laying procedure

Fixing Corodek Roof and Wall Sheeting to your new structure

ROOFING

Crest fixing

WALLING

Pan fixing

Fixing to Steel

Self drilling and tapping

screw with neoprene

washer



Laying procedure

• Corodek sheets should be laid into the prevailing wind and sit neatly on the preceding roof sheet, with a

side lap of 1.5 corrugations, as shown in the laying procedure below. Avoid ‘stretching’ the width of the

sheet when installing, as this could allow wind and rain to enter.

• On roofing, at the end of the sheets, the valleys of each corrugation should be turned up at crest of the

roof and down into the gutter using a turn up/down tool.

• On walling take particular care to level your first and second sheets, and then check every couple of

sheets from there on with a spirit level to maintain a vertical level.

• When walking on Trimclad or Corodek roofing, it is recommended you walk over the purlins to avoid any

damage. Wear flat, rubber soled shoes and walk flat footed, spreading your weight evenly over as many

corrugations as possible. For carport and verandah applications, crawl boards should be used to avoid

damage during installation and maintenance.


• Once all the side walls are screwed off the roof sheeting can be installed. Before doing so make sure you

have a centre prop to support the centre portal frames this is to ensure you don’t induce a negative

downward camber in the ridge line when applying downward pressure when screwing the sheeting to the

roof purlins.

• First position the roof sheeting to protrude 60mm past the wall sheeting into the gutter to avoid drainage

problems.

• Please refer to the screw fixing details in the diagrams above.

• Do not fix screws to the apex purlins on either side of the ridge until you are ready to fix the ridge and

barge caps.

EndWallSheeting

Screw a trim angle to the underside of the overhanging roof purlins prior to sheeting the end wall. The end wall

sheeting is then screwed to the trim angle.

Lay all gable wall sheeting from the smallest to the largest sheet prior to fixing. The starting point for fixing the

sheeting is the left hand side of the gable with the shortest sheet then descending from the gable end wall

apex to the other sheet corner. Never start at the middle of the gable. Before doing so, please check the

direction of the overlap is facing opposite to the prevailing winds.

Using a spirit level please ensure the vertical level is maintained as you progress across the end wall at the

same time maintaining a straight screw line to the wall girt.


TranslucentSheeting

A maximum of one (1) translucent sheet can be fitted per side per bay, you should check to see if it is a

building requirement to fit safety mesh under each skylight.

Translucent sheeting should be fitted after the roof sheeting and on top of both sides of the steel roof sheet as

to support the translucent sheeting on both sides. To ensure that the roof sheeting is fitted parallel, fit a dummy

sheet (without screws) and then fit the next roof sheet required. Remove the dummy sheet and continue,

making sure to fit the safety mesh if required before screwing the roof sheeting on either side of the skylight.

The translucent sheeting must be drilled 2 x times the diameter of the roofing screw to allow for expansion and

contraction. Special roof screws and washers are supplied to fix the sheeting. The screws have a large sealing

washer to ensure adequate waterproofing is achieved and to allow for the different expansion rates between

the steel and the fiberglass.

BargeCapping

Always start fixing the barge from the bottom gutter end of the gable. If your building has a wide span several

pieces will be supplied which will involve overlaying the top barge over the lower barge, this will create a

weather tight seal. The standard overlap used is between 100mm and 200mm.

Cut the barge cap vertically at the apex so there is a vertical joint in the centre of the building.

RidgeCap

Fix the ridge cap in a direction so the joint is facing away from prevailing weather. Seal the overlap of the ridge

with silicon sealer provided.

Trims

It is essential that everything is square and parallel to sheeting lines to provide a neat finished product

therefore when applying the flashings care must be taken.


CornerTrims

Fit corner trims up behind the barge capping and gutters with wall screws (TEK HX 10-16x16 Neo. Zacs4)

making sure to fix on the same line as the wall girt. Corner flashing’s are provided with uneven sides, this is to

allow for corners where the wall sheeting has been trimmed to allow for a flush finish. Place the flashing with

the longest side extending over the rise in the sheeting furthest from the corner of the building.

FitmentofGutters

First of all a concealed gutter bracket should be placed at either end of the building just under the protruding

roof sheets. Then a string line is to be attached to the bottom edge of the concealed bracket so the remainder

of the bracket can be fixed level at 700mm spacing. Avoid placing a bracket at the same position of a

downpipe and at least 300mm from a gutter join.

Brackets are attached with wafer head screws to the sheet profile ridges of the wall sheeting. Before fitting the

gutter to the building first turn the gutter upside down to mark the positioning of the downpipe nozzle, use a

downpipe nozzle as a template to mark the area that you are that you are going to insert the nozzle. Carefully

cut out the shape section so that the nozzle will fit snuggly into the hole, allowing for the flanges of the nozzle

to be fitted inside the gutter. Take the nozzle and place a bead of plumber’s silicone sealer around the face of

the flange and place the nozzle into position then fix the nozzle with rivets provided.

It is essential with Colorbond© gutters to remove all plastic from the areas you are working on. Now fit the stop

ends to the gutter with 4 colored rivets. Seal the inside of the gutter stop end with plumber’s silicone sealer.

Now remove all plastic from the gutter and place the gutter onto the brackets bead then rotate the gutter

towards the rear of the bracket until it clips into place, at the same time ensuring the gutter fits neatly under the

barge capping at either end of the building.

Now the gutter has been attached to the brackets, depress the tags down over the rear of the gutter to hold it

against the wall sheeting and rivet the bottom of the gutter to the bottom flange of the concealed bracket.

Silicone rivets to prevent gutter leakage.

If you have a continuous run of gutter to include the fitment of several lengths of gutter, peel the protective

plastic off the gutter. Allow for a suitable overlap, place 2 lines of silicone in the new section of gutter at the

overlap. Follow the same procedure for fixing along the building until the entire wall is correctly guttered.

Metrolline Gutter and V Bead Barge. Barge cut and folded to match gutter.


Metroline gutter position over roller doors on side wall of shed.

RollerDoorInstallation

If your roller door is steel wrapped then you can now cut the bands and remove the outer wrapping. DO NOT

under any circumstances remove the plastic wrapping at this stage.

Measuring from the outside of the shaft to the outside of the barrel take the measurement and use it to

measure from the bottom of the header mullion up the roller door support bracket to locate the position of the

top of the mounting bracket. Using a spirit level, ensure both mounting brackets are even. From the inside of

the roller door jamb, measure 100 mm on one side and 125mm on the chain side to the leading edge of the

roller door mounting bracket. You should now be able to secure the mounting brackets.

See below for restricted and normal headroom required for your roller door


Lift your roller door (still in its plastic wrap) onto the top of the mounting brackets. Ensure that the roller door

protrudes the same distance over the roller door mullions on both sides (overlap 25mm each side for series 1

roller doors and 50mm each side for series 2 roller doors). Put the U bolt clamp over the shaft through the

lower clamp and the mounting bracket. Do not tighten the U clamp bolt at this stage.


While the U clamp is loose, roll the door so that the end of the door is closest to the roller door mullion. Slide

the door so that the end of the door is close to the roller door mullion without touching it. Before tightening the

U clamp, recheck that the roller door protrudes the same distance over the roller door mullion on both sides.

Now ensure the U clamps are securely tightened. Failure to do so will result in the door unraveling.

Ensuring the door is still in its plastic wrapping; roll the door towards the roller door mullions one and a half to

two turns. Hold the door and cut the plastic wrap. Warning do not lose control of the door and allow it to

unravel, this door has been tensioned and will exert some pressure. Pull the end of the roller door

approximately 300mm. Place a soft wooden chock between the door end and the barrel of the door to prevent

it from retracting.

Z Mullion, Roller Door Track and Roller Door Support Bracket View.


Roller Door to Support Bracket Mounting.

Portal Column with Z Mullion and Roller Door Support Bracket.

Splay the track guide entry points to allow easy access for the door ends. Engage the roller door into the

tracks. Attach your guide tracks loosely to the roller door mullion with two brackets on each track. Ensure that

the bottom of the guide tracks are level with the lowest desired point of the door. Check that the door goes up

and down smoothly without binding on the tracks. Secure the tracks to the roller door mullions, making sure

that all of the supplied brackets have been used.

With the door closed, mark the bottom of the locking bars on the roller door tracks. Open the door and slot the

track appropriately. Close the door and check that the locks work smoothly. Warning, make sure there are no

sharp edges or swarf remaining in the tracks.


PersonnelAccessDoorInstallation

As displayed below, PA door in side wall (figure 1) and PA door in gable or end wall of building (figure 2).

Having constructed the portals and placed wall girts as per the mark numbers in the certified drawings and Bill

of Materials, use the following procedure to construct the PA door surrounds and insert the PA door into the

desired position.

There are 2 types of PA door commonly used; These are the preassembled Larnec door which comes in

mounted within its own frame and the component or deluxe door which requires site assembly.

Figure 1.

Figure 2.

The pre-assemble Larnec door comes per hung within its own frame. The door handle/lock is pre- fitted for

convenience.


The above are the components for the PA door assembly including support mullions, door

jambs and PA door frame with skin.

1. Measure wall batten depth. This will give the required distance to notch the PA door support mullions.

2. Notch the PA door support mullions to the depth measured above as per Figure 3.

3. Measure the PA door frame width and mark support mullion position on wall girts allowing for

thickness of mullions and door jambs on both sides of door. Allow 10mm clearance. This can be

adjusted with the door jambs before securing jambs to mullions.

4. Place mullion into position (see Figure 4).

5. Using wafer head screws supplied, secure support mullions to each batten both internally and

externally as per Figure 5.

6. Secure the support mullions to the concrete utilizing the PLPAM brackets and concrete screw bolts

supplied as in Figure 5.


Figure 3.

Figure 4.


Figure 5.

7. Take the PA Door Jambs (as seen in Figure 6) and place over the outside of the PA support mullions

(as seen in the figure 7). Adjustment to opening size can be made here by withdrawing the door jamb

away from the mullion support by the required distance to narrow opening width. Check required

distance between jambs on erection drawings ( nominal size 785mm from high rise to high rise of

jamb)

8. Notch PA Door Jamb header as indicated in figure 6. To make tabs for securing header to vertical

jambs, measure length of door frame and position header the measured distance allowing for

clearance for door to swing.

9. Fix hinges to door jambs. Hinges should be mounted between 250-300 mm from each end of door.

10. Fix PA Door Frame to hinges.

11. Fit door lock and mark barrel position in relation to vertical jamb.

12. Drill hole in vertical jamb as marked to receive lock barrel and fasten face plate to door jamb.


Figure 6.

Figure 7.


WindowInstallationProcedure

WindowAssembly

1. Measure the depth of the wall girts. This measurement will be used to notch the window support

mullions prior to assembly.

2. Using the measure taken above notch, the window support mullions to the measured depth as shown

in figure 1.

3. Insert support mullions into wall as per figure 2. and fasten tabs of mullions to wall girts top ,bottom, and

both sides of wall girts.

4. Following the measurements on the certified drawings supplied with your kit, measure the distance from

foundations to indicated window head height on your drawings, mark wall girts appropriately.

5. Position window in between support mullions. Secure window to support mullions with Tek screws

through side flanges on window frame (Figure 5).


Figure 1.

Figure 2.

1. Window surrounds flashing to be attached to window support mullions prior to sheeting walls.

2. The window frame is to support sheeting at the top and bottom of the window by sheeting over the

outside of the window frame


Figure 5.

Internal shed view of window support assembly


View from internal side of window support setup. Sheeting cut to receive window frame.


SlidingTrack&DoorAssembly

4

SSSSSS


5 6