prof sewing techniques patterns

8/12/2019 Prof Sewing Techniques Patterns

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notch

facing1/2extension

use for:grainlinelayoutcutting fabricpattern markingsdartsseamscollarsclosures

cut 1 fabric on foldcut 2 with facing

cut 2interfacing

c e n t e r f r o n t f o l d

Front Bodice #1

1To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 2

Chapter 4Chapter 6Chapter 17


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2

s t i t c h t o m a t c h p o i n t s

f o r d a r t t u c k

f r o n t b o d i c e

# 2

n o t c h

s t i t c h t o m a t c h p o i n t s

f o r d a r t t u c

k s

t o c o m p l e t e t h e p a t t e r n j o i n

b o d i c e

# 1 t o

# 2 a t c i r c l e

To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

F r o n t B o d i c e # 2

Chapter 2Chapter 4Chapter 6Chapter 17


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3

cut 2 fabric

use for:

grainline

layout

cutting fabricpattern markings

darts

seams

collars

c u t h e r e f o r c e n t e r b a c k s e a m

c e n t e r b a c k f o l d

Back Bodice #1

To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circleChapter 2Chapter 4Chapter 6


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4

stitch to matchpoints

for dart tuck front bodice #2

notch

stitch to matchpoints

for dart tucks


Back Bodice #2

Chapter 2Chapter 4Chapter 6Chapter 17


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5

front bodice #1

cut 1

c e n t e r f r o n t p l a c e o n f o l d


French Curved Dart

Chapter 4


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6

French Curved Dart

To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle Chapter 4


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fisheye/contoureddart cut 1 in fabric

c . f .

f o l d

Fisheye/Contoured Dart

7

Chapter 4


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notch notch

stitching line

this is not the stitching

line it is a guide to show

the difference between the

curved stitching and straight

dart line

cut 1 in fabric

c e n t e r f r o n t

p l a c e o n f o l d

Curved Waist Dart

8 Chapter 4


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cut 1

notch notch

fold line

facing cut 1 interfacing

Square/Round Patch Pocket

9Chapter 5


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10

welt pocket lining cut 1 here

cut 1

use for:welt pocketcut 1 in fabriccut 1 lining(as above)

opening

Square/ Round PatchPocket Lining

Chapter 5


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11

width

cut 2 fabric

cut 1 interfacing

Pocket Flap

Chapter 5


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cut 2


Shorts Front with Angled Side Pocket

12Chapter 5


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13

cut 2

Angled Side Pocket Lining

Chapter 5


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14

cut 2

Angled Side Pocket

Chapter 5

p o c k e t

p l a c e m e n t


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cut on fold

n o t c h

w h e n c u t o n f o l d

cut 1 on fold for gathered seam

cut 1 on fold for faced ruffle

cut 1 on fold for single ruffle

cut 1 on fold for straight narrow rolled hem

c u t h e r e f o r s i n g l e r u f f l e

cut 1 fabric here on fold for eased seam

Straight Fabric Section

15Chapter 6Chapter 10Chapter 15


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princess seamfront bodice #1notched/lapel collarcut 2 fabric

c e n t e r

f r o n t

to complete the patternjoin bodice #1 to #2 at circle

matchpoint

Princess Seam Front Bodice #1

16 To complete the pattern join bodice #1 to #2 at circle

Chapter 6Chapter 11


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18

front bonotched/collar #2

cut 2 fabric


Princess Seam Side

Front Bodice

Chapter 6

Chapter 11


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19

c u t 1 f a b r i c

C o n c a v e C u r v e

Chapter 6


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20

c u t 1 f a b r i c

C o n v e x C u r v e

Chapter 6


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21

cut 1 fabric

use for: v shaped seam

waistband

waist facing

bias waist finish

curved a line hem

bias false hem c

. f

. f o l d

matchpoint

Front Skirt

Chapter 6Chapter 9Chapter 12

Chapter 15


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22

cut 1 fabric

cut 1 interfacing

use for: v shape seam

waistband

waist facing

bias waist finish c

. f

. f o l d

m a t c h p o i n t

Front Yoke

Chapter 6

Chapter 9Chapter 12


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23 Chapter 6Chapter 8 Chapter 9Chapter 12Chapter 15

mark dart point here

cut 2 fabric

use for:

seams

zipperswaistband

waist facing

bias waist finish

curved a-line hem

bias false hem

Back Skirt


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24

cut 1

matchpoint

Godet

Chapter 6


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25

cut 1 fabric

cut 2 underlining

c .

f .

f o l d

notch

Princess SeamStrapless Front Bodice

Chapter 6


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26

cut 2 fabric

cut 2 underlining

Princess SeamStrapless SideFront Bodice

Chapter 6


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to complete pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle

n ot c h

n ot c h

n ot c h

b o x i n v e r t e d


i n v e r t e d

kni f e p l e a t

kni f e p l e a t

kni f e

n o t c h

n o t c h

n o t c h

n ot c ha l l p l e a t s

( t op a ndb ot t om

)

c ut 1 ,

u s e f or :

i n v e r t e d

b ox kni f e

P l e a t s # 1

27 To complete the pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle


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n ot c h

n ot c h

n ot c h


b o x


kni f e p l e a t

p l e a t

kni f e p l e a t

n o t c h

n o t c h

n o t c h

c ut

1 ,

u s e f or :

i n v e r t e d

b ox kni f e

n ot c ha l l p l e a t s

( t op a nd

b ot t om

)

to complete pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle

P l e a t s # 2

To complete the pattern join pleats #1 to #2 at circle28


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matchpoint

matchpoint

use for:kickpleat (cut 2 fabric)hem split (cut 2 fabric) vent cut (1 fabric w.s.u)

f o l d

l i n e

cut 2interfacingfor hemsplit

cut 1 for vent

notch

notch

Kick Pleat

29

Chapter 7 Chapter 16


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matchpoint

cut 1 fabric

Kick Pleat Underlay

30Chapter 7


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fly front

matchpoint

Fly Front

31Chapter 8

5 z i p p e r l e n g t h

c u t 1 s i d e t o

h e r e


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cut 1 fabric cut 1 interfacing

Fly Front Extension

32

Chapter 8


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cut 1/2interfacing

cut 1/2interfacing

e x t e n s i o n

s t r a i g h

t w a i s t b a n d # 2

c u t 1 f a b r i c

s t r a i g h t w a i s t b a n d # 1

c u t i n f a b r i c

to complete the pattern, joinwaistband #1 to #2 at circle.

c b

s i d e s e a m

S t r a i g h t W a i s t b a n d # 1

33

S t r a i g h t W a i s t b a n d # 2

To complete the pattern, join waistband #1 to #2 at circle

Chapter 9


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g r a i n l i n e

c u t t i n g

l i n e

use for:single flounce (cut 1)gathered flounce (cut 2)overlaping flounce (cut 2)mock seam (cut 1)edgestitch (cut 1)circular narrowrolled hem (cut 7)

flounce

s t i t c h h e r e f o r n a r r o w

r o l l e d h e m

1 / 4

s e a m

a l l o w a n

c e

f o

r s

i n g l

e f l o

u n c e

1 / 2 a

l l o w a

n c e

f o r

g a

t h e

r e

d f l o

u n c e

Flounce

34 Chapter 10Chapter 15


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cut 2

cut 1 interfacing

c .b .f ol d

Mandarin Collar

35

Chapter 11


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36

cut 2

cut 1 interfacing

c .b .f ol d

Shirt Collar

Chapter 11


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37

cut 1

cut 1 interfacing

c . b .

f o l d

matchpoint

Notched/Lapel Upper Collar

Chapter 11


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38

cut 2 on biasmatchpoint

Notched/Lapel Under Collar

Chapter 11


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matchpoint

cut 2cut 2 interfacing

1

d/lapelfacing #2

to complete the patternjoin facing #1 and #2 at circle

Notched LapelCollar Facing #1

To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle


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40

cut 1 c b f o l d

notched/lapelcollar facing #2

to complete thejoin facing #1 an

To complete the pattern join facing #1 to #2 at circle


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41

cut 1 c b f o l d

Back Neck Facing


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42

c.f. fold

f r o n t c u t 1 o n f o l d f a b r i c

c u t 1 o n f o l d i n t e r f a c i n g

F r o n t N e c k

F a c i n g

Chapter 12


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c ut 2f a br i c

c ut 2i nt e r f a c i n g

B a c k S q u a r e

N e c k F a c i n g

Chapter 12


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44

cut 2 fabric

cut 2 interfacing

Back Waist Facing

Chapter 12


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45

cut 2 fabricn ot c he s

n ot c he s shirt sleeve placket cut this length

Continuous Placket

Chapter 13


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46

f ol dl i ne

cut 2 fabric

Shirt SleevePlacket

Chapter 13


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47 Chapter 13

t u c k

n ot c h

n ot c h

t u c k

cut 2 fabric

Tucked Shirt Sleeve


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cut 2

c u t

cut 1/2 interfacing

c u f f l e n g t h s h i r t s l e e v e p l a c k e t

c u f f l e n g t h t o h e r e

c o n t i n u o u s p l a c

k e t

Cuff

Chapter 13


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49

cut 2

Full Size Front ArmholeEased Set-in Sleeve

Chapter 14


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50

cut 2

Full Size Back Armhole #1Eased Set-in Sleeve

To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle

Chapter 12Chapter 14


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51

c u t

2

F u l l S i z e B a c k A r m h o l e # 2

E a s e d S e t - i n

S l e e v e

To complete the pattern join back armhole #1 to #2 at circle

Chapter 12Chapter 14


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cut 2

match notch

to shoulder seam

Front Set-in Sleeve

52

Chapter 14


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cut 2

Back Set-in Sleeve

53

Chapter 14


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notch

notch

notch

matchpoint

vent

cut 1 fabric

w.s.u.

f o l d l i n e

interfacing

cut 1

Vent

54Chapter 15


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55

notch

matchpoints

notch

hem split lininguse for:hem split (cut 2 in lining) vent (cut 1 lining w.s.u.)

Hem Split Lining Chapter 16


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notch

notch

matchpoint

vent lining

cut 1 w.s.u.

Vent Lining

Chapter 16


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right front left front

c e n

t e r f r o n t

c e n

t e r f r o n t

Button and Buttonhole Placement Worksheet Shirt with Front Band and Mandarin Collar


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neckline



Button and Buttonhole Placement Worksheet Shirt with No Band or Collar

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