production of denim fabrics using rope dyeing and slasher dyeing methods: a comparative study
TRANSCRIPT
According to Textile Terms and Definition ‘Denim is traditionally a 3/1 warp face twill fabric made from yarn dyed warp and un-dyed weft yarn’
3/1 RHT 3/1 LHT
The word ‘denim’ probably came from the name of France, “serge de nimes” – serge (a kind of material/fabric) from Nimes (a town in France) at 17th
century.
Leob Strauss started a wholesale business of denim at the first of 18th century in America by the name of Levi.
Cowboys – who often wore denim in the movies –became very popular at around 1930 which lead to an increased interest in the rugged trousers.
Fewer jeans were made during the World War 2 at 1943 for American soldiers. After the war, rival companies, like Wrangler and Lee, began to compete with Levi’s for a share of the international market.
Denim became very popular with young people in the 1950′s. Some schools in the US went so far as to ban students from wearing denim at that time.
Manufacturers started to make different styles of denim to match the 1960′s fashions.
Denim become fashionable cloth at around 1990’s.
And now denim is the most usable cloth for men and women for all ages.
Slasher Denim: Dyeing and sizing are done in form of sheet/ slasher simultaneously and that is why the process is also called sheet dyeing and the denim is sheet denim.
Rope Denim: Warping and dyeing are done in the form of rope and dyeing sizing is done separately.
Direct warping
Creeling
Pre-wetting
Cold Wash
Hot Wash
Cold Wash
Dyeing(6 bath)
Cold Wash
Hot Wash
Cold Wash
Drying
Sizing
Ball warping
creeling
Pre-wetting
Cold wash
Hot wash
Cold wash
Dyeing (10 bath)
Cold wash
Hot wash
Cold wash
Storage
100% cotton or polyester blend yarn is used where count range is 7OE to 40OE for slasher and up to 20OE for rope.
Steel for zipper, snaps and buttons.
Leather, plastic for level.
Indigo vat dye: it is natural organic dye achieved from plant. But now several thousand tons of indigo produced each year — is synthetic.
Criteria
Required floor space
Man power
Count
Floor space is comparatively higher for rope denim production
Comparison
Criteria
Required floor space
Man power
Count
Less man power required for slasher denim production.
Comparison
Criteria
Lapper tendency
Dye bath capacity
Shade variation.
Lapper tendency is higher in rope dyeing than slasher dyeing.
Comparison
Criteria
Lapper tendency
Dye bath capacity
Shade variation.
Dye bath capacity of slasher is lower than rope dyeing machine .
Comparison
Criteria
Lapper tendency
Dye bath capacity
Shade variation.
Lower shade variation in rope dyeing process.
Comparison
Criteria
Production
breakage rate
Wastage
Production of rope denim is about 50% higher than slasherdenim.
Comparison
Criteria
Production
Breakage rate
Wastage
Breakage rate of Slasher is higher than rope method.
Comparison
Criteria
Production of Stripe fabric
LCB process
warping.
Stripe fabric can be produced only by rope method. Not possible for slasher.
Comparison
Criteria
Production of Stripe fabric
LCB process
warping.
No need of LCB process for slashermethod. For rope, it is need to do re-beaming.
Comparison
Criteria
Production of Stripe fabric
LCB process
warping.
Direct warping is done for slasherwhile, ball warping for rope method.
Comparison
Denim type Weight (oz/sq. yd)
Sheet denim (price)
Rope denim(price)
Regular 6-14 1.55 to 2.1 $ 1.75 to 2.25 $
Multi count 6-14 1.75 to 2.15 $ 1.9 to 2.35 $
Slub 6-14 1.8 to 2.25 $ 1.95 to 2.45 $
Stretch(regular) 10-12 2.15 to 2.65 $ 2.35 to 2.85 $
Stretch(multi count)
10-12 2.40 to 2.80 $ 2.55 to 3.0 $
Stretch(slub) 10-12 2.40 to 2.90$ 2.60 to 3.10 $
Sales price of denim is about 1.5 $ to 3.0 $ per oz.
Price of slasher denim per oz is about 1.5 $ to 2.9 $.
Rope denim price is about 1.75 $ to 3.0 $ per oz.
Sales price of rope denim is 7 to 9.3% higher than slasher denim.
Count: slasher-7 to 40 Ne. rope up to 20 Ne.
Breakage rate: higher at slasher.
Man power: higher at rope.
Lapper tendency: higher at rope.
Production rate: higher for rope.
Shade variation: frequently seen at slasher.
Wastage: higher at slasher.