prodew500 hair styling
TRANSCRIPT
ASP0051E
PRODEW® 500 The Amino Acid supplement for Hair Care
ASP0051E 2AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Line Up PRODEW®
• PRODEW® 300… A combination of Na-PCA & Proline
• PRODEW® 400… Skin Amino Acids
• PRODEW® 500… Hair Amino Acids
Introduction
ASP0051E 3AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PRODEW® 500
Components ConcentrationSodium PCA and PCA 20Arginine 7Amino Acids Mix 7Sodium Lactate 12Aspartic Acid 4Water 50
�PRODEW® 500 is amino acids cocktail, designed for the efficient application of PCA and amino acids in hair care preparation.
PRODEW®
Technical Data Sheet No.1002-0010E
ASP0051E 4AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PRODEW® 500 - Composition
�18% high quality amino acids premix..
�… of 11 kinds of amino acids = easy to handle
� 32% humectant
�Almost odorless and colorless
�Preservative free
PRODEW®
Technical Data Sheet No.1002-0010E
ASP0051E 5AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Composition of Amino Acids Mix� The composition of Amino Acids Mix is modeled after
the constituent amino acids of protein in Cell Membrane Complex (CMC).
� Amino Acids Penetration and Supplementation
Constituent amino acids of protein in CMC**Cys and Met are excluded. J. A. Swift et. al., Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemist, 25, 355,(1974)
Amino Acids Mix of PRODEW® 500
Asp Glu Thr
Ser
Leu
Pro
Gly Ala
Val Ile
Tyr
Phe
His Lys Arg
Amino Acids Mix
Technical Data Sheet No.1002-0010E
ASP0051E 6AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Cell Membrane Complex
� Intercellular cement for cuticle and cortex
� Non-keratinous region
� Continuous structure from surface to inside
� Responsible for swelling of hair
� Target of alkali, oxidant, and reductant
� Destroyed by 10 - 20% extension – cuticle decementation
Similar composition…easier to penetrate ?
Likely to be lost…then replenish !
Amino Acids Mix
ASP0051E 7AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Improvement of Hair Luster by PRODEW® 500
� PRODEW® 500 imparts luster and brilliant appearance to hair.
Amino Acids Mix
10
20
30
40
0% 2% 5%
PRODEW® 500
Glo
ss In
dex
(%)
N=3, mean ± S.D.
Technical Data Sheet No.1002-0050E
ASP0051E 8AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Designing PRODEW® 500
Components ConcentrationSodium PCA and PCA 20Arginine 7
Amino Acids Mix 7Sodium Lactate 12Aspartic Acid 4Water 50
Part 1
Part 3
PRODEW®
Part 2
ASP0051E
Designing PRODEW® 500
Part 1 : HUMECTANT: PCA
ASP0051E 10AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Sodium PCA (AJIDEW® NL-50)
� PCA is derived from L-Glutamic acid in the skin.
� Sodium PCA for hair care
� Moisturizing� Conditioning� Color protection
O COO- Na+
NH
PCA
ASP0051E 11AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Humectant for health hair
ASP0051E 12AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
AJIDEW NL-50 : Effective moisturizer for hair
Wat
er c
on
ten
t in
hai
r(g
/hai
r-10
g)
<Procedure>After hair tresses (15cm, 6g) were immersed in each humectant solution for 5 min.,
they were dried under 20oC/65%RH, then the amount of absorbed water in hair tresses was measured by weight.Water adsorption mass on hair = (B) – (A) – (C)(B) : Weight of hair tress after maceration (65 % RH)(A) : Before maceration (65 % RH)(C) : Weight of moisturizer sorbed on hair
0.0
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
Ajidew NL-50GlycerinBlank(water)
Technical data sheet 1001-0133
ASP0051E 13AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
• AJIDEW NL-50 reduces the creakiness of hair.
1%SLES+Glycerin1%SLES+AJIDEW NL-50
1%SLES+1,3-BG
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1.0
Dyn
amic
Fric
tion
Coe
ffici
ent
Humectant (%, active)
25oC, 40%RH
0 0.2 1.20.4 0.6 0.8 1.0
creaky
Wet friction reduction with AJIDEW NL-50
ASP0051E
Designing PRODEW® 500
Part 2 : Arginine
ASP0051E 15AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Arginine Has Strong Affinity for Hair
� Arginine bears cationic charge below pK2=9.0, so has strong affinity for hair at pH over about 4.
0
10
20
30
40
50
3.2 4.3 5.3 7.2
pH of Arginine Solution
Arg
inin
e R
eco
very
(mm
ol/g
-hai
r)
Removed by acidic buffer solution
Arginine
Removed by water
Technical Data Sheet No.3000-0060E
ASP0051E 16AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Arginine has Strong Affinity for Hair
� Arginine bears cationic charge below pK2=9.0, so has strong affinity for hair at pH over about 4.
0
10
20
30
40
50
3.2 4.3 5.3 7.2
pH of Arginine Solution
Arg
inin
e R
eco
very
(mm
ol/g
-hai
r)
Removed by acidic buffer solution
Arginine
Removed by water
Affinity to acidic groupson hair surface
++++L-Arg
COOH
----±±±±
pH 3 pH 6
COO-
Technical Data Sheet No.3000-0060E
ASP0051E 17AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
L-PCA 5wt%N=3, mean
Uptake of PCA –the pH Dependence
� Interaction of PCA and hair is relatively weak at pH range between 4 and 7.
PCA
COOH----±±±±
pH 3 pH 6
COO-
----PCA
Arginine
0
5
10
15
20
1 3 5 7 9
pH
PC
A (
mg
/g-h
air)
Technical Data Sheet No.1001-0710E
ASP0051E 18AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Use of Arginine as an “Anchor” -1
�By combination with Arginine the uptake of PCA is enhanced.
L-PCA 5wt%, pH 7.2N=3, mean ± S.D.
Arginine
Technical Data Sheet No.1001-0720E
0.0
1.0
2.0
3.0
4.0
PCA-Arg PCA-Na
PC
A (
mg
/g-h
air)
ASP0051E 19AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Use of Arginine as an “Anchor” -2
�Arginine also enhances the uptake of acidic and neutral amino acids.
Arginine
Technical Data Sheet No.1002-0090E
PRODEW® 500 PRODEW® 500Without Arginine
0.00
0.05
0.10
0.15
0.20
Am
ino
Aci
ds
(mg
/g-h
air)
His Phe
Ile Val
Ala Gly
Pro Ser
Thr Asp
ASP0051E
Designing PRODEW® 500
Part 3 : Amino Acids Mix
ASP0051E 21AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Composition of Amino Acids Mix� The composition of Amino Acids Mix is modeled after
the constituent amino acids of protein in Cell Membrane Complex (CMC).
� Amino Acids Penetration and Supplementation
Constituent amino acids of protein in CMC**Cys and Met are excluded. J. A. Swift et. al., Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemist, 25, 355,(1974)
Amino Acids Mix of PRODEW® 500
Asp Glu Thr
Ser
Leu
Pro
Gly Ala
Val Ile
Tyr
Phe
His Lys Arg
Amino Acids Mix
Technical Data Sheet No.1002-0010E
ASP0051E 22AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Improvement of Surface Hydrophobicity
• Alanine
** **
*
N=20
*: p<0.05**: p<0.01Dunnett’s test, control = STAC
Natural Bleach STAC STAC+ Ala
DSDAC
110
100
90
80
70
60
50
Co
nta
ct A
ng
le (
o)
Bleached
Hair & Amino Acids
Technical Data Sheet No.3000-0381E
ASP0051E 23AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Improvement of Tensile Strength
• Histidine and Phenylalanine
NaturalControl
Phe His Ala Ile Arg Glu
50
40
30
20
10
0Ten
sile
Str
eng
th*
(g)
**: p<0.01Dunnett’s test
Bleached
N=36** **
* Stress at 20% extension measured in water.
Hair & Amino Acids
Technical Data Sheet No.3000-0590E
ASP0051E
Benefits of PRODEW® 500
ASP0051E 25AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Improvement of Hair Luster by PRODEW® 500
� PRODEW® 500 imparts luster and brilliant appearance to hair.
Amino Acids Mix
10
20
30
40
0% 2% 5%
PRODEW® 500
Glo
ss In
dex
(%)
N=3, mean ± S.D.
Technical Data Sheet No.1002-0050E
ASP0051E 26AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
• Sodium PCA and PCA– Moisturizing, conditioning, color protect
• Arginine (basic amino acids)– Enhances PCA and amino acids uptake
• Arginine & Aspartic Acid (acidic and basic amino acids)– Improve wet hair property
• Neutral amino acids– Improve dry hair property
• Sodium Lactate– Moisturizing, softening
PRODEW® 500 – Amino Acid Supplement
ASP0051E 27AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
PRODEW® Improved color retention of died hair
Technical Data Sheet No. 1002-0070E
Hard to fade
0
5
10
15
20
25
After post-dyeconditioner
After 1st cycle
After2nd cycle
After3rd cycle
∆∆ ∆∆E
*ab
mean±S.D., N=3
Without PRODEW® With PRODEW®
ASUL-4025&
PDC-0003
ASP0051E
PRODEW® 500 The amino acid supplement for hair
Replenish damaged hairImprovement of tensile strength
Improvement of surface hydrophobicityMoisturizing
Color care – improved color retention
ASP0051E 29AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
TIPS for Formulation with PRODEW® 500
� Recommended dose
� 0.5 – 5.0% for rinse-off formulations
� 0.2 – 2.0% for leave-on formulations.
� The pH of is around 5, suitable for wide range of formulations
� Addition to anionics/ amphoterics base formulations (i.e. shampoos) are not difficult at all.
� Addition to emulsions are likely to cause the severe viscosity decrease due to high content of PCA-Na, but emulsion is possible.
� Addition to alkaline formulations such as waving lotion or dye component is not necessarily recommended, because PCA is not so stable at highly alkaline condition.
ASP0051E
Applications of PRODEW® 500
ASP0051E 31AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Recommended Applications
� Hair shampoos
� Hair conditioners
� Post-dye conditioners for pH control
� Hair masks
�Hair sprays
�Hair styling gels
� ….
Applications
ASP0051E 32AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Hair treatment water
ASP0051E 33AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories
Dream hair shining star
ASP0051E
PRODEW® 500
Amino Acids Supplement for Hair