process journal

Process Journal 2

11th January 2010

In the course of today’s lesson, I used a jigsaw to cut out my base piece from a

big slab of pinewood. Firstly, I rechecked my measurements, so that it was

accurate and made sure that I didn’t make any mistakes. Secondly, I used a

jigsaw to cut out the base. First of all, when using a Jigsaw, I made sure that I

had safety goggles. Then while using a Jigsaw, one should always watch where

the blade is cutting and should not cut sharp bends or turns, also another point

to watch when switching off a Jigsaw, wait till the blade has stopped moving

before lifting it and place it on its side when resting it on a bench.

During today’s lesson, I think that my performance was mediocre and

that didn’t do enough during the lesson, and that I could have achieved more in

a double period.

1/18/11 4:56 PM

Process Journal 3

17th January 2011

For the duration of this double period, I marked out the outline of my

drawer on a piece of plywood, using a tri-square and a rule to get

accurate measurements, and asked for some feedback from Mr.

Anderson about how the handle of the drawer shall be made and fitted

(see drawing). Using a piece of pinewood, I marked out the handle

which was (measurement). When making the drawer, the

measurements were wrong. The drawer is suppose to be 180mm with

a addition of 70mm so that when it is slide out to be used as a mouse

pad, it would be stable and wouldn’t flop. As I cut out the piece that

was marked wrong, I had to measure the piece again. This could have

been avoided if I had made sure that I had marked right, or listened

properly.

During this lesson, I don’t think that I did my best. I think that I could

have worked harder an put more effort. Instead of only marking out

the pieces, I could have cut out pieces.

Process Journal 4

18th January 2011

In the course of this lesson, I filled the sides of my base piece (using a flat file)

and marked out where the handle shall be placed on the drawer and where the

drawer shall be placed on the base (using a tri-square and a rule). I filled 2

sides of my base, when it was suggested to use a – to round the edges, that was

when I realized that there shall be sponge on both sides of the base, and that

rounding the edges shan’t be necessary. So I carried on to mark out the handle

placement and the drawer placement, using a tri-square and a rule. After

marking, I used a flat file and file the sides of the drawer but as time was

running out, we had to pack up and leave for lunch.

During this lesson, I felt very accomplished because I feel that I did sufficient

things during the double period.

Sanding the sharp edges

21st January 2011

During this lesson, I sanded off the sharp edges of my drawer and completed

a artifact reflection for my wikispace. During the 1st period, I finished an artifact

reflection to place it in my wikispace. The artifact reflection was based on my

process journals, and how I reflected on the work that I have done in the

workshop.

During the 2nd period, I used a flat file to sand of the sharp edges. Sanding

off sharp edges of the project is essential, because sharp edges can be

dangerous to the user. By using a flat file and by moving it in a specific motion,

the sharp edges can be rounded off.

Today, I think that I have done a good job at rounding the edges, but I felt

that I could have achieved more than just rounding the edges today. I think that

if I had done the filing quick, I could have done more.

I think that my learner profile for today was Human ingenuity, as through

the help with equipment and machines, it

For next lesson, I will have to finish rounding the edges, and glue the handle

onto the drawer.

Sanding and Drilling

24th January 2011

During this lesson, I finished filing the remaining sharp edges and

drilled two holes into my drawer, so that I can attach the handle to the

drawer. Firstly I used a flat file to file of the sharp edges, then I

remarked the area in which my drawer shall be placed on the base.

Secondly, I filed of the sharp edges of the drawer handle, so that the

user wouldn’t be hurt by the sharp edges of the handle. Thirdly, I

remarked where the handle shall be placed on the drawer, and then

marked out when the screws would be placed on the drawer. Lastly, I

used a portable drill to drill holes through the drawer. The screws that

I shall use to screw my drawer handle to the drawer is 16x3.5

As today was a single period, I think that I did as much as I can do

with the little time that I had, and I feel very satisfied with my work.

I think that my learner profile for today was Human ingenuity, as

through the help with equipment and machines, like the flat file and

the portable drill.

For next lesson, I will screw and glue my handle to the drawer, this

way it would be secure and it wouldn’t fall of.

This is a portable drill, I used a

portable drill to drill holes through

my drawer. The holes are so that I

can screw the drawer handle to the

drawer.

Screwing the Drawer Handle 28th January 2011

What I Did:

During this lesson, I screwed the Drawer handle into my drawer. By

Aligning the screws with the hole that I had drilled into the drawer, I used a

screwdriver to screw it in with a clockwise motion. A problem that I faced when

screwing the Drawer handle to the drawer was that the screw went at an angle

and slightly cracked the drawer handle. By using a portable drill, I drilled a

little way into the drawer handle, that way the screw doesn’t go an angle into

the drawer handle and continue to split the wood. After screwing the drawer

handle to the drawer, I used a sanding block and garnet paper to smoothen the

face of the drawer. That way I can get rid of any pencil marks and any slight

dents in the drawer. I also redid my markings of where the Drawer shall be

placed on the base, by remarking it, I can be sure that the markings are

accurate and I wouldn’t be making any mistakes.

Emotions:

I think I did good as to saving the drawer handle from splitting the whole

way, but I think that I could have done more in the workshop today.

Learner Profile:

I think that my learner profile for today was Thinker, that is because

during this period of class I thought, and consulted Mr. Anderson, about how to

stop the drawer handle from continuing to split.

What to do next:

For next lesson, I will have to cut out where the drawer shall be placed on

the base.

Using a Portable Power Router

What I Did:

During this lesson, I used a portable power router to router out my

drawer. By using a potable power router and aligning it with the drawer marks

which have been marked out, I could accurately router out the drawer area. I

used a portable power router, which is a bigger version of a router. During this

lesson, I only routed the outside shape of the drawer, and used a 20mm chisel

with a rubber hammer to correct any mistakes that I had made, by doing this I

could make sure that the area which the drawer shall be placed would be

accurate. I used safety googles and wore an apron during my time in the

workshop, so to be careful and be safe. This way I could make sure that no sand

dust reaches my eyes or any thing ruins my clothes.

Emotions:

I think I did good in using my time wisely, and I feel satisfied with the

amount of things that I have done.

Learner Profile:

I think that my learner profile for today was human ingenuity, because I

am creating the project.

What to do next:

For next lesson, I will have continue to remove all the remaining piece of

wood in the drawer area

1/18/11 4:56 PM

What I Did:

During this lesson, I used a portable power router to router out my

drawer. By using a potable power router and aligning it with the drawer marks,

which have been marked out, I could accurately router out the drawer area. I

used a portable power router, which is a bigger version of a router. As we

router out the outline of the drawer already, I had to freehandedly router out

the rest of the drawer. With the help of Mr. Anderson, I routered out the

remaining area of the drawer free handedly. It was much harder using a router

freehand, as there isn’t the help of the stopper. After routering out the

remainder of the drawer, I realized that the dept at which I had been routering

at was too shallow, so for next lesson I would have to router deeper into the

wood. I used safety goggles and wore an apron during my time in the workshop,

so to be careful and be safe. This way I could make sure that no sand dust

reaches my eyes or any thing ruins my clothes.

Emotions:

I think I did well in using my time wisely, and I feel satisfied with the

amount of things that I have done.

Learner Profile:



What to do next:

For next lesson, I will have continue to router out the drawer, but this

time I would have to router

it with a different dept, so

that the drawer can fit.

Chisel

What I Did:

During this lesson, I used a 20mm chisel to clean out the edge. By doing

this, the drawer could properly fit, and would be at an angle, or be crooked. By

placing the flat edge of the chisel aligned with the marked out line, and using a

rubber mallet to hammer the chisel, I could chisel the sides straight. If I were to

use the angle side, and chisel the sides it would result in a uneven edge. I didn’t

start router this lesson, as there wasn’t enough time, and I would rather finish

router the whole drawer in a double lesson.

Emotions:

I think that I did well, as this was a single lesson and it wasn’t enough time

to finish router out the whole drawer.

Learner Profile:

I think that my learner profile for today was thinker by managing my time

and organizing it.

What to do next:

For next lesson, I will finish chiseling out the edges and continue to

router out the drawer, but this time I would have to router it with a different

dept, so that the drawer can fit.

1/18/11 4:56 PM

What I Did:

During this lesson, I continued used a 20mm chisel to clean out the edge,

and I screwed the drawer holder in place. By doing this, the drawer could

properly fit, and would be at an angle, or be crooked so that the drawer

wouldn’t fall out. By using a cordless drill, I could drill holes into the drawer

holder so to start out the screws. Then using a screwdriver, I could screw the

screws in place. After finishing screwing them in, I used wood filler to fill in the

cracks along the side of the drawer holder.

Emotions:

I think that I did well,

Learner Profile:

I think that my learner profile for today was thinker by managing my time

and organizing it.

What to do next:

For next lesson, I will finish chiseling out the edges and continue to

router out the drawer, but this time I would have to router it with a different

dept, so that the drawer can fit.

Cutting out the drawer holder

What I Did

During this lesson, I used a sanding block and garnet paper to sand the surface

of my drawer, and using a pull saw to cut a the piece of wood that shall keep the

drawer in place. By having this piece of wood, the drawer wouldn’t slip out and

can stay securely in place. The area in which the drawer holder shall be placed

wasn’t big enough, so I would need to use a router and router out the remaining

area. To cut out the drawer holder, I found a block of wood that was the similar

depth of the area in which it shall be placed, and used a rule and a – to mark out

accurately the measurements. Mr. Anderson helped with cutting the wood to

the right depth. Then by placing it in the vice, so that it is secure and wouldn’t

move about, I used a pull saw to cut the piece of wood out. It was slightly hard,

because I had to cut through 2 piece of wood which is a few millimeters apart,

and while cutting it out, it vibrated very hard.

Emotions

During this lesson, I think that I did very well, and used my time very wisely.

Learner Profile

This lesson’s Learner Profile is thinker, and I had to think of how to solve the

problem of the small area of where the drawer holder shall be placed. I figured

that I should router the area larger so that

What To Do Next/Changes to the plan

The next thing I would have to do it router out the remaining area of which the

drawer holder shall be placed.

Chiseling out the groove for the drawer holder1/18/11 4:56 PM

What I Did

I started out the lesson by sanding the drawer, with a sanding block and garnet

paper. After sanding, I used a 20mm chisel to chisel out the area in which the

drawer holder shall be placed. By doing that, the drawer would be able to slide

out completely. After chiseling out the area where the drawer holder shall be

placed, I glued and screwed the drawer holder onto the drawer. I glued the

drawer holder on, using PVA glue and a wet cloth to clean of the excess glue.

After doing that, I screwed the piece of wood that shall hold the drawer onto the

base. Altogether, during this lesson, I finished my drawer.

Emotions

During this lesson, I think that I did very well, and used my time very wisely.

Learner Profile

I think that my learner profile for today was human ingenuity, because I am

creating the project.

Routering the sides of my base

What I Did:

During this lesson, I tried to come up with a way of fitting the pieces of sponge

onto the base. I was unsuccessful because the sponge was hard to cut. It is said

that sponge is easy to cut using a turkey saw, but we didn’t have a turkey saw

at hand, and couldn’t come up with a way of cutting the pieces of sponge into

the wanted shapes. After being unsuccessful, with the sponge, I moved onto

routering the edges of my base with a router. I took safety precautions when

using the router, wearing safety goggles and aprons. When using the router, I

made sure that I didn’t have my hair in the way, or had anything in the way of

the router. That way there wouldn’t be any accidents that shall happen.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I felt unsuccessful because the sponge idea couldn’t be

accomplished

Learner Profile:



What To Do Next:

The next step is to continue to router the remainder of the edges.

Sanding my base 1/18/11 4:56 PM

What I Did:

During this lesson, I started the lesson out by using garnet paper and a sanding

block to remove the pencil line of my name, and the measurement markings.

After sanding off the pencil markings, I moved onto marking out where the

sponge pieces shall be placed. The sponges shall be cut in half, and be

strategically placed. I used tri-square and a rule, so that my measurements

were accurate.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I think that I didn’t do enough during this single period.

Learner Profile:



What To Do Next:

The next step is to round off the sharp edges.

Rounding and Sanding the sharp edges

What I Did:

During this lesson, I rounded the sides using a trimmer router, I made sure I

wore safety glasses. After using a trimmer router, I used garnet paper and a

sanding block, also a flat file. By rounding the sides, I take a step towards

safety, so the user doesn’t get scratched or hurt when using the product. I used

the trimmer router first, so that majority of the edges are sanded. After using

the trimmer router, I used a flat file to round the remaining of the edges. After

using a flat file, I used garnet paper to smooth the sides. By using the garnet

paper in a circle motion, I made sure that there wasn’t any sharp edges.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I think that I didn’t do enough.

Learner Profile:



What To Do Next:

The next step would be to continue to round off the sides.

Sanding and Using Lazerpan (Transfer paper)

During this lesson, I used garnet paper and a sanding block to remove any and

all pencil markings. By sanding off the sharp edges and smoothening the

surfaces, it prevents the user from any problems caused by the product, like

splinters and cuts from sharp edges.

In the course of today’s lesson, Mr. Anderson and Ms. Mercer tried and

demonstrated the use of lazerpan(transfer paper) on plastic. Firstly the picture

is printed on the lazerpan, then with a big bucket of water, they soaked the

lazerpan, until a clean film comes off from the lazerpan. Once the cleanfilm

comes off, one must very carefully remove it from the water and place it

strategically on the plastic. Once the clean film is on the plastic, you must

remove the water, by rolling it, or using a sponge. Once it is dry it is ready to be

placed on the mold. The constant problem when using the lazerpan, was that

once it came out of the mold, it had a texture to it, as if it has air bubbles or

water bubbles stuck under its surface.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I felt disappointed as I don’t feel that I did enough to my

ability.

Learner Profile:

I think that my learner profile for today was learner, because I was learning

how to use lazerpan on plastic

Measuring and Marking

During this lesson, Mr. Anderson suggested using triangular timber sticks

instead of sponge. I think that it was a good idea, as it would be sturdy and also

help with cooling the computer. I used a tri-square and a rule to measure and

mark out the measurements of 280mm on the triangular timber. Once the

triangular sticks have been cut out, I shall glue and nail the timber sticks down,

and sand the sharp edges down.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I felt content with what I did this lesson, and how we found a

different way to cool the computer instead of using sponge.

Learner Profile:

I think that my learner profile for today was thinker, as it relates to figuring out

how to cool the computer instead of using sponge.

What to do next:

Cut out the triangular pieces

Measuring & Marking, Cutting, Disk sanding and Rounding 18th March 2011

What I Did

I started out the lesson, finishing off measuring and marking out the triangular

timber pieces. After using a tri-square and a rule to accurately mark out the

measurements, I used a gent saw and a bench hook to cut out a total of 8

pieces. Following on from cutting out the pieces, I proceeded to use a coin to

mark out a curved edges on all the pieces. By doing that, I shall have a perfectly

round edge. Then, wearing a pair of safety goggles and using a disk sander, I

began to round the edges, by doing that I would have a rounded end. After

rounding the end, I used a flat head file, garnet paper and a sanding block to

round the edges, so that the user shall not be hurt in anyway.

Why

I started out the lesson measuring and marking, so that the measurements

would be accurate and I wouldn’t make any mistakes. I used a bench hook so

the timber pieces would be sturdy, and wouldn’t move when I used a gent saw

to cut the timbe3r pieces. After, I used a coin to mark the curved edges, so that

I would have an exact round edge. I then moved on to use the disk sander, I

wore safety goggles so that I wouldn’t get any sand dust in my eyes and I made

sure that I didn’t have my fingers anywhere close to the turning disk. I then

used a flat-head file, garnet paper and a sanding block to round the edges, so

that the corners of the timber aren’t sharp and wouldn’t harm the user.

Connection to Biomimicry and Gantt Chart

I’m using triangular timber, so to create a raised texture on the top of the

computer stand, so that it relates to Biomimicry. My product is related to the

ants, because Ant have air scoops on their back to cool them down, and by

using that idea, I want to include it in my computer stand to cool down the

computer.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I felt pleased with the amount of work I got done during the

period, because I am closer to the end of the project.

Learner Profile:

I think that my learner profile for today was Human Ingenuity, because I am


What to do next:

Continue to round the remaining edges of the triangular timber.

Sanding and Rounding 21st March 2011

During this lesson, I finished rounding off the sharp edges of all the triangular

timber. I used a flat file, garnet paper and a sanding block. I used two types of

garnet paper, one to remove the sharp edges, and the second to smoothen out

the surface of the wood.

Why

I sanded all the sharp edges with a flat file, garnet paper and a sanding block,

this is a safety precaution for the user, so that when used, the product wouldn't

cause any harm to the user.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I felt accomplished as I finish sanding down the sharp edges,

and I’m closer to finishing my product

Connection to Biomimicry





computer.

Learner Profile:



What to do next:

Finish off sanding down the sharp edges and glue and screw the triangular

timber to the base.

Sanding the sharp edges.

During this lesson, I started out marking out where the triangular timber shall

be placed, using a tri-square and a rule. I finished rounding off the sharp edges

of all the triangular timber. I used a flat file, garnet paper and a sanding block. I

used two types of garnet paper, one to remove the sharp edges, and the second

to smoothen out the surface of the wood.

Why

By using a tri-square and a rule I can accurately mark out where the triangular

timber shall be placed. I sanded all the sharp edges with a flat file, garnet paper

and a sanding block, this is a safety precaution for the user, so that when used,

the product wouldn't cause any harm to the user.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I felt accomplished as I finish sanding down the sharp edges,

and I’m closer to finishing my product






computer.

Learner Profile:



What to do next:

Glue and nail the triangular piece down

In this picture, I am using a tri-

square and a rule to markout

where the triangular timber shall

be placed. Using a tri-square and

a rule is essential to getting a

accurate marking.

Gluing and Nailing 1/18/11 4:56 PM

During this lesson, I started gluing the triangular timber and nailing them

down. I used PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue. I first check where each and every

triangular timber was placed, then lined the bottom of the triangular timber

with glue. I then continued to place the timber on its respective place and used

a wet cloth to wipe off any excess glue. I the repeated the process to the other

triangular timber. Following the gluing of the timber, I used nails to secure the

timber to the base. The nails I used to nail down the triangular timber was

20mm long, I didn’t want it to be too long, so that it would go through the base

and nail into the drawer. I used a rubber mallet to hit the nails in at a 45 degree

angle into the triangular timber

Why

By using PVA (polyvinyl acetate) glue, I could take a step to securing the timber

properly onto the base, and by nailing it down, I would be sure that the timber

is securely on the base, and wouldn’t fall off or move from its place.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I felt accomplished as I am close to finishing my project.






computer.

Learner Profile:



What to do next:

Continue to nail the triangular piece down

Nailing and Wood filling

During this lesson, I continued to nail the triangular timber down. By doing this,

the triangular timber would be secure, and wouldn’t budge. Mr. Anderson

suggested to place rubber on the triangular timber, so that the computer

doesn’t move around as much, as the surface of the triangular timber is

slippery. It was an aspect to think about. After nailing down the triangular

timber, I continued to use a Nail punch, so that the nails are below the surface

of the wood, then I used a light colored wood filler to fill up the holes

Why

By nailing down the triangular timber, this way it makes sure it is secure and

firm. Placing rubber on the triangular timber would increase the friction

between the computer and the wood, thus making it less likely to slip around.

By using a nail punch, it makes sure that the nail wouldn’t be on the surface of

the wood and I can fill the hole up with wood filler would make the surface

smooth.


This is a picture of an ant, the

air scoops on the back are

related to my project as I

want to incorporate it so that

I can cool my computer. After

I finish with the triangular

timber, I will paint it blue-black so to show the color of the ant.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I felt accomplished as I am close to finishing my project.

Learner Profile:

I think that my learner profile for today was thinker, because I thought about

using a nail punch so that the wood surface would be smooth.

What to do next:

Continue wood filling the holes

Painting

During this lesson, I used acrylic paint to paint my computer stand. I used the

color red, white and yellow to create a salmon pink. Then with the tools

cardboard, cup of water, paintbrush and a nail stand, I proceeded to paint the

computer stand all over.

Why

By using acrylic paint, I could make sure that the paint isn’t hazardous or any

danger to the user, if put in the mouth. The tools that I used, were cardboard,

so that none of the paint used would get on the work table. The use of the

paintbrush was to paint the computer stand, while the cup of water was to wash

the paintbrush between colors so not to contaminate both colors. The nail stand

was to keep the project off the cupboard and so that it has a higher surface area

that can dry.

of the ant.

Emotions:

During this lesson, I felt successful as I am very close to finishing painting my

project.

Learner Profile:

I think that my learner profile for today was thinker, as I thought about my

colors and the color wheel.

What to do next:

Continue to paint the project.

process journal

Documents

drawer handle

drawer placement

remaining sharp edges

handle placement

edges shant

flat file

base piece

sharp bends