Gerald’s Corner

Speakers Bureau For June

Events, Reports, & Announcements

What Plant Am I?

LSU Program and MG Forms

Between the Rows

November General Meeting, Garden Talk and 2nd Saturday Features Dave Patton ... Hummingbirds

What Plant Am I? Answer

Class of 2014 learns propagation

November Calendar

WHAT’S INSIDE

LPMGA NOVEMBER GENERAL MEETING

november 6TH 6pm

vermilionvile “Winter

hummingbirds in

Louisiana”

Dave patton Save Postage: bring your social

reservation form and membership

renewal to the meeting

LPMGA BOARD MEETING 1 PM MONDAY,

NOVEMBER 18TH AT COMPASS ENGINEERING AND

CONSULTANTS, LLC 4023 AMBASSADOR CAFFERY PKWY ct Marc Wiley for more information.

VOLUME 15, ISSUE 9 NOVEMBER 2013

PRESIDENT’S MESSAGE

I always enjoy the change of seasons in Louisiana. The crisp weather of fall seems to reenergize us; perfect timing as we prepare for the holidays ahead. November means turning the clock back and shorter hours of daylight. The sweaters and the gumbo pots come out; we light the fireplace, and start to dream about next year's garden. November brings us Veterans Day and Thanksgiving--two days to gives thanks and to honor the contribution and sacrifice of others.

As the thermometer drops, we look forward to football season that feels like football season, turkey comas, and shopping until we drop at those holiday sales. We are fortunate to have a slate of strong and accomplished volunteers who have agreed to provide LPMGA leadership as we move forward into 2014. For LPMGA, November also means elections, and I urge every active member to attend the November General Meeting to vote for your LPMGA Board. Show your support, use your voice, and vote.

Marc -

LPMGA ELECTION TIMELINE & MEMBER-AT-LARGE ELECTION Refer to LPMGA Handbook, Page 26

November General Meeting: Election of At-Large Member is held at the same time as election of the other board members December General Meeting: Christmas Social, 2013 Master Gardener Class Graduation, Installation of LPMGA Board Officers, including At-Large-Member. All officers, including At-Large member, take office January 1st.

Please remember that only

active members may vote.

Rufous hummer photo by Dave Patton

GERALD’S CORNER

Hello Master Gardeners, As the year winds down and cooler temperatures begin, please keep in mind that here, in south Louisiana, fall is transplanting time –especially for trees and shrubs.

I am focusing on trees for this month for two reasons. The first being that I, like so many of you, appreciate and value the contributions that trees make throughout

our community. The second reason is I’m increasingly getting calls from homeowners asking about the health of trees, how to properly maintain trees, tree

removal, etc. During site visits I encounter variety of problems that could have been avoided or diminished with some planning and a little research.

The first thing that is recommended when deciding to plant a tree or trees is what is the intended use or purpose. Is its primary purpose shade or energy

conservation? Is it going to be used primarily for beautification? Is it going to be used for wildlife habitat since many birds and animals depend on trees for food

and shelter? If you consider what the intended uses are for a tree or for trees, then that directly impacts what you’ll plant, where you’ll plant it, and the required

maintenance. Trees that have been properly selected, positioned, and cared for are a reflection of homeowners who have an appreciation for their environment.

Trees are a long-term investment and we must not only think about how trees will benefit us but how they will benefit others and who will be responsible for the

maintenance and upkeep long after we’re gone. For whatever reason that you want to invest in a tree or trees, one of the most neglected considerations is the size

of the tree at maturity. A mature tree is a tree that has reached a desired size or age for its intended use. Remember that size, age or economic maturity varies ,

depending on the species and intended use. For example, most people who planted or plan to plant live oak trees are not aware of the space requirements as the tree

grows and matures. A live oak tree can dominant an area if not given adequate space to grow. It’s not only the spread of branches but also the root spread that

needs to be considered at planting. I personally planted 3 live oak trees in 1980, and have already had to remove two, and with the third one I’ve been forced to

remove several large branches that were beginning to hang over my house. Unfortunately I see this scenario replayed over and over again throughout Lafayette and

across many communities in our State. I singled out live oaks because of the familiarity of these trees by most people since live oaks are abundant and beautiful

and add so much beauty to our outdoor living areas and property in general.

Anyone wanting to plant trees can find endless resources on the subject. The LSU AgCenter website – www.lsuagcenter.com has an abundance of information

available to help make important decisions about tree planting. On the LSU AgCenter’s website there is a publication called “Guide to Successful Trees –

Publication #2631.” It provides all the information you’ll need to make those important decisions from selecting the proper trees for your intended purpose to

proper transplanting, to care and maintenance during and after establishment. There is even a section on common tree problems and choosing an arborist. Another

publication is called “Trees for Louisiana Landscapes – Publication #1622.” This is a smaller publication but still contains a wealth of valuable information on

selecting, transplanting, and the care and maintenance of trees.

Since fall is transplanting time, I’d like to mention how important it is that once the species of a tree or trees is selected for planting, that the proper transplanting

techniques are followed. Root establishment is critical during that first year of transplanting, especially getting that tree or trees through the first summer. It must

be noted that it can easily take at least a year and several additional months before trees are considered established. This is an important point because there are

some people that honestly believe that after a few month trees are on their way and need no further care. Here are a couple of important points I’d like to make

when transplanting trees: first, dig the transplanting hole at least twice the width or diameter of the root ball of the tree; next, don’t dig the transplanting hole any

deeper than that which will allow the tree to sit in the hole at the same depth it was growing in the container, or at the same depth it was growing before being dug

in the case of field grown trees.

One of the biggest mistakes where trees are planted is that they’re transplanted “TOO” deep. Because of our soil type, less than ideal drainage, compounded by

improper mulching, we see issue of root rots which leads to the death of many trees. Additionally it is no longer acceptable to amend the soil that is used as a back

fill once the tree is in the transplanting hole. Backfill the hole with the same soil that was removed from the hole. This is the soil that the tree will have to adjust to

and live in for the rest of its life. Amending the backfill soil – especially with an amendment that is high in organic matter – may create a waterlogged condition

around the root system especially during periods of prolonged rainfall, which again increases the possibility of root rots.

Another common practice that I take issue with is improper mulching. We all are aware of the benefits of mulching such as it reduces weed growth, reduces soil

compaction, conserves moisture, add nutrients and improves the soil structure, etc. However, volcanic or pyramid mulching – which is placing mulch high and

tight around the lower trunk of trees – is improper and leads to rot issues. Avoid placing mulch over the root collar. The root collar is the transition zone between

the stem/trunk and the roots at the soil line of a tree. That area should never be covered up by mulch because it can leads to the buildup of moisture which can lead

to rot issues. There’s been times where I’ve pointed this practice out and been told it’s “never been a problem with my trees.” To that I say why take the risk if you

value trees; talk to someone who’s had to pay someone to take a tree down because of decline due to rot. The depth of mulches can also lead to problems. I have

seen mulches pile high and tight against the lower trunk of trees sometimes to a depth of as much as a foot or more. Mulching trees to a depth of more than 3 -4

inches can lead to problems. There are some species of trees that tolerate pyramiding or volcanic mulching more than others, but under no circumstances should it

ever be done. Mulching to a depth of 3 to 4 inches away from the root collar to the drip line will go a long way towards contributing to the long term health and

performance of trees. Both issues, transplanting too deeply and volcanic or pyramid mulching is common, not just with home owners but also with landscape

maintenance professionals who are getting paid to sometimes engage in practices that are not beneficial to trees.

Let me conclude by stating that the dormant season is also the major pruning period for trees. Improper pruning practices contribute to more problems with trees

than is necessary. By neglecting to properly train trees when they are young leads to structural defects that have to be addressed when trees are much older and

much bigger. This leads to more shock to the tree, larger wounds because of the removal of larger branches, which also present increased safety hazards. Anyone

that has trees that are structurally defective because of the lack of pruning and training while the trees were smaller, needs to consult a licensed arborist. Please

consult the LSU AgCenter’s website for recommendations on selecting an arborist. Information on recommended pruning practices can also be found on the LSU

AgCenter website. Additionally, someone who is credited with studying pruning techniques and how trees respond to wounds, advises that pruning paint or sprays

serve no useful purpose and in some cases may slow down a tree’s natural ability to cover or seal wounds. That person is Dr. Alex Shigo, plant pathologist with the

United States Department of Agriculture’s Forest Service. I highly recommend reading some of Dr. Shigo’s studies and recommendations on pruning and training

trees.

Selecting the right tree for the right location is very important. So is proper transplanting, proper mulching and

pruning. Selecting and transplanting is only the beginning. The care and maintenance can determine whether or not

trees gives us satisfaction by meeting our expectation for their intended uses.

Gerald P. Roberts Horticulturist/Master Gardener Program Coordinator

LSU AgCenter

1010 Lafayette Street, Suite 325

Lafayette, LA 70501

GRoberts@agcenter.lsu.edu

Office (337) 291-7090

Fax (337) 291-7099

EVENTS, REPORTS, AND BOARD ANNOUNCEMENTS

2013 LPMGA General Meetings Remaining

November 6th December 4th Social and MG Class Graduation

2013 LPMGA Board Meetings Remaining

November 18th December 16th

Do you know what plant I am? I'm a perennial native deciduous understory shrub, with evergreen cousins from Japan. I grow well along

shady, sandy creeks, but bloom best in dappled sun, in a moist, well-drained acidic soil. Although I can grow to 15x18 feet, my usual size is 6x5

feet, in an upright oval form.

My yellow-green leaves are alternate, simple, and wider in the center and 2 to 4 inches long, pubescent below. My funnel-shaped flowers are

mildly fragrant, pink, and occasionally white. They appear in early spring before my leaves. The pistils and stamens protrude well beyond the

corolla in an upward arch. Woody brown capsules form when my flowers die. All of my parts are toxic.

Unfortunately, I'm susceptible to many insect and disease problems, such as aphids, borers, scale, thrips, whitefly, and powdery mildew, and my

shallow roots are prone to root rot. If properly planted and maintained, and with good ventilation, I do just fine. I'm also tolerant of rabbits.

Massed in woodland gardens, I'm a lovely sight in spring. And hummingbirds, bees and butterflies love me.

Do you know what plant I am? See page 6 for the answer.

Master Gardeners must not only perform 20 hours of service

and get six hours of continuing education, they have to enter

it in the system.

Anyone who has questions should contact

Mary Ann Armbruster by phone or

Email mastergardenerhours@yahoo.com

NOVEMBER 6, 9 and 16: DAVE PATTON

MG VP Sherlyn has been arranging the presentations for out General meetings and Second Saturday talks.

Thank Jeanell Menard for scheduling Garden Talk. To volunteer for Speakers Bureau, contact Candy Bienvenu

or Theresa Guidry

LSU AgCenter Horticulture researchers and

Extension specialists in partnership with Louisiana

Nursery & Landscape Association have scheduled a

Louisiana Plant Materials Conference for Louisiana

Master Gardeners only on Tuesday November 19th at

Burden Center in Baton Rouge. Attendance will be

limited to 70 (first come, first served). Pre-registration

and payment must be received early to secure a spot.

If you plan to attend, please be sure and send your

payment to the LSU AgCenter’s Hammond Research

Station address along with a completed registration

form (see next page).

Registration from 8:30--9am, program completion is

scheduled for 3 p.m. and includes segments on piney

woods gardens, caladiums, figs, hostas, begonias, crape

myrtles, Super Plants, vegetable cultivars and more.

Thank you.

Rene' G. Schmit

State Master Gardener Coordinator

The MG Board has approved the November 9 Fall

Planting Day of seed to TABLE for volunteer hours.

Please contact Emily Neustrom if you plan to attend or

have questions.

Thank you for volunteering!

Please complete this 2014 Membership Renewal form and bring to the November meeting or mail

to Babette Werner, Corresponding Secretary at 342 W. Martial Ave. Lafayette, LA 70508, or

complete and email to babsvwerner@aol.com. If your contact information and phone numbers

have not changed, just put “same” in the address field. *****Please check the current committees

that you are working on if you plan on serving on them again in 2014 and check any new committees

that you want to serve on. The information will be compiled and sent to the committee chairs. Also, a

list of committee chairs and committee members will be sent to the general membership in January.

WHAT PLANT AM I? ANSWER:

Rhodendrom canescens: Native

azalea, Sweet Mountain azalea,

Honeysuckle azalea

Pine straw pick up is Friday and Saturday, November 1 and 2, from 8 am to Noon. Demo Gardens Shade House. $7 a bale, cash or check made payable to LPMGA. Thanks! From Theresa Gore

SWEET POTATOS &

CALENDARS

Lafayette 4-H Foundation is

once again selling Louisiana

Sweet Potatoes for a

fundraiser. They can be

perfect as a holiday gift or for

baking! Pre-orders are

required and checks should

be made out to the Lafayette

4-H Foundation. Payment

can either be mailed or

dropped off to Lafayette 4-H

Foundation, 1010 Lafayette

Street, Ste. 325, Lafayette, LA

70501 in the Lafayette Parish

Government Building.

Pick-up is scheduled for

Thursday, November 21, 2013

from 1 – 5 p.m. at the UL

Lafayette Ira Nelson

Horticulture Center located at

2206 Johnston Street, enter

from Johnston Street. If your

place of business purchases

orders ten (10) or more

orders we will set up a

delivery.

We are promoting the LSU

AgCenter’s “Get It Growing”

Calendar along with our sale.

If any of you are interested in

volunteering to assist us with

the pick-up of calendars and

sweet potatoes, please contact

Charles Hebert or Linda Alesi.

We encourage you to share

this offer with friends and

family members who support

our “Buy Local, Buy Fresh

Louisiana Produce Sale.” We

appreciate your continued

support to support Lafayette

LSU AgCenter Programs.

Thanks once again!

Lafayette 4-H Foundation

In my last column, I said that I wasn’t going to plant garlic this year. I re-thought that

decision after reading an article about its effect on the bad bugs. Now I have decided to

plant some scattered among my other beds. Just a note: this is the time to be planting garlic.

It’s November and an excellent time to start new beds. By starting them now, you can take advantage of the availability of

materials, like leaves and yard waste that might otherwise be thrown away. By keeping these materials in our own gardens,

instead of putting them in the trash, we can improve our soil, and reduce the load on our already over-taxed waste disposal

systems. This saves money in many ways, from reduced cost of soil amendments to lower costs for waste disposal and taxes.

Placing yard waste into the trash is terrible for the environment and a tremendous waste, at every level. Learn to look at those

bags of leaves and grass clippings like the valuable products they are. Another reason that starting beds in the fall is a great idea is

that the materials placed in the bed now will have all winter to break down and enrich the soil. The increased rains that come

during the winter will also aid in speeding up the breakdown, and by spring, you will have rich, beautiful soil.

The easiest way to create new beds is with sheet composting, a permaculture technique that takes a lot of the work out of

starting new beds. If you have an area of lawn or field that you want to convert to a bed, sheet composting easily beats all the

other methods. Start by outlining the area that will be your new garden bed. You can use an actual edging, like stone, wood,

plastic, or metal, or you can just use a garden hose or some flour to mark out the space. Once you’ve decided where you want your

new bed, cut down any weeds, leave them in the bed, and wet the area thoroughly. Yes, I have not left anything out, you do NOT

have to dig, or remove sod, or take out rocks, or anything else back-breaking. Just cover the area with cardboard or newspapers.

Personally, I prefer cardboard, simply because it’s easier to handle. If you do use newspaper, you must use at least six sheets at all

locations. Newspaper or cardboard, you must overlap each section by at least a foot. That is another reason I prefer cardboard to

newspaper, you can get cardboard in very large sizes, like appliance boxes. The larger the sections, the fewer overlaps required. If

you fail to overlap the sections adequately, you will have weeds work their way up in the bed, not as many as if the cardboard were

not there, but the fewer the better. I hate weeding! It’s absolutely necessary to wet the paper as you work because the paper will

blow away otherwise. That’s why the cardboard is easier to use, you can lay the cardboard and wet the whole thing at the end.

The reason that the cardboard or newspaper works is that it keeps out light. Plants need light for photosynthesis; if they do not

get light, the roots will eventually be worn out, and the plant will die. That’s why you can leave the weeds, and any seeds that may

be there, in the bed. The seeds will germinate, and then they will die without light. The weeds that spread by runners will

continue to try to find light, but eventually, they too will die.

OK, so we have an area designated as a bed, it now has cardboard or newspaper over it. Water the paper or cardboard well. Next,

put in the brown layer. This layer will be the leaves, pine straw, peat, coir, coffee grounds and tea leaves/bags or shredded

newspaper. Wet this well. Then lay on the green layer, this will be the raw compost. It can be anything that you would put into a

compost bin or pile, like kitchen scraps, grass clippings, weeds (non-runners and those that have not gone to seed), manure,

seaweed, faded blooms and other healthy trimmings from the garden. This layer should be half as deep as the previous brown

layer. Then lay on about a two or three-inch layer of manure if you have it. You can repeat the brown/green/manure layers up to

two feet, or you can stop with just the one set. The final total should be at least 6 inches thick, but it can be much deeper if you

have the materials. When you have used up all the layering material that you want to use, add a layer of soil and/or finished

compost, then a thick, final layer of good organic mulch, like pine needles, or shredded leaves.

Next, water it well. Really drench it; this not only keeps everything in place, but it starts the decomposition process. The wet

compost will start to draw earthworms and the rest of the microherd where they will begin their work. Together they will work to

mix the layers and degrade the compost to produce the richest, most beautiful soil you have ever had the pleasure of planting.

If you want to plant your garden without waiting for the whole winter to pass, just follow the instructions for the cardboard,

brown and green layers, but top the whole thing with about six inches of a good soil/compost mix, and plant into that. Then add

your top layer of mulch. By the time the roots get to the brown and green layers, the microherd will have done enough work that

the plants will be able to extract the nutrients they need to grow well.

You will notice that the height of the bed shrinks quite a bit as the materials are broken down into nutrients and humus. You will

also notice that, after the bed has cooked for a few months, the soil is loose and easy to work. If you let the bed sit over the

winter, come spring, you can plant the bed as usual, but the results will be more than you have ever enjoyed before.

Continued on page 8 ...

VEGETABLE GARDENING WITH

MARY ANN ARMBRUSTER

Saturday, November 9, 10 a.m.

at Grass and Rock Shoppe

1800 East Milton Avenue

A delightful presentation by Nancy

Richard and

Judy Keller

The presenters ask that we bring a container

(to make our arrangements in) and any

supplies such as greenery, ribbon, grape vines,

etc to the class so that we can make our own

personal creations.

The presentation last year was great fun and

so inspiring!

LEARN ABOUT OUR SPECIAL WINTER FRIENDS

Dave Patton will be making the Master Gardener rounds in November~! He's the speaker at Garden Talk, the Second Saturday Class, and General Meeting at the Vermilionville Performance Center, Wednesday, November 6th at 6 p.m. Dave began studying birds in 1987. Participating in bird counts and surveys led to his involvement in area birding organizations. He is a past president of the Louisiana Ornithological Society, and current Sanctuary Chairman for Baton Rouge Audubon Society. He began assisting Nancy Newfield of New Orleans, in the early 1990's, as she banded hummingbirds in Louisiana. He received his own hummingbird banding permit in 1995. His banding has focused on southwest Louisiana and helped to document our winter population of hummingbirds. Louisiana plays host to a large number and variety of hummingbirds during the winter months. This interesting fact was only recently discovered. Nancy Newfield began banding winter hummingbirds in 1978 and spreading the word of their presence. The interest in winter hummingbirds soared in the early 1990's. Yard owners started maintaining feeders and planting for these winter visitors. Dave's presentation will look at our various hummingbird species, some of the interesting information learned from banding winter hummingbirds and how to attract these lovely feathered friends into our own yards.

Dave Patton will also be presenting at our demo beds Garden Talk at 10 a.m. on Saturday, November 16. Take advantage of his formidable know- ledge and hummer expertise. Dave Patton was the one banding hummers at the demonstration that took place on September 15th.

Continued from page 7 …

Some of these results are:

There will be fewer weeds because of the cardboard or newspaper

below and the mulch above

The soil will hold water better because of the increased organic

material in the soil

The soil will be easier to work than your native soil because it’s

looser and more friable

The bed will need less fertilizer than native soil because of the

enrichment provided by the compost and the microherd

Remember, all of these advantages come from a method that

requires LESS work than a conventional bed! If you don’t step on

it the soil will remain light and fluffy. (Make your beds about four

feet wide so that you can reach the middle from either side, and

you won’t have to step on it.) Keep adding organic materials to the

top in the form of mulches, and you will keep the nutrients high

and the friability of the soil excellent for years to come. If you’re

anything like me, you will never want to go back to digging and de-

sodding again.

Until next month,

Good Gardening, Mary Ann Armbruster, PhD, MG

Make this Christmas

A Master Gardener Christmas

Give Your Friends a Master Gardener Calendar!

GARDEN TALK FOR 2013 THIRD SATURDAY OF EACH MONTH AT THE DEMO BEDS 10 AM - TOPICS AND SPEAKERS SUBJECT TO CHANGE

NOVEMBER 16th HUMMINGBIRDS DAVE PATTON

DECEMBER NO GARDEN TALK

As we enjoy Robbin Hebert’s phone-camera images of the Class of 2013 engaged in the propagation workshop, how many of us can recall our own day learning propagation from Becky Taylor and other seasoned Master Gardeners? How many years has Becky Taylor been the propagation expert aficionado? However many years, whoever may have been our teacher and guide, we all learned that propagation offers results that make our plant sales a fruitful success, in more ways that one!

Members introduce the Class of 2013 to our Demo Beds.

Becky Taylor

demonstrates the

finer points of

propagation to the

Master Gardener

class we are about

to see inducted into

membership.

Class of 2013 takes on the task of PROPOGATION WITH GUSTO!

ULL will have their Arbor Day celebration, November 9, at 9 a.m. The activity will begin at the Sorority Row with the “Sorority Ladies” and move over to Blackham Coliseum around 9:30 a.m. to plant the bike path. Bring shovels and gloves. TreesAcadiana is joining with ULL for the Arbor Day project. The weather is perfect for planting.

Get those labels ready!

Knowing the date you plant

and identity of your

cuttings and seeds is an

important of propagation.

Time is running out to record Your

Continuing Education and Volunteer Hours

for 2013.

Make Every Hour Count!

This is important for every member —

whether active or one of our

“sustaining status members.”

Gardener’s Gazette is issued to all members of the Lafayette Parish Master Gardeners’ Program.

All members are encouraged to submit news, educational features, and photographs. The deadline for all submissions is

the 24th of each month for publication in the next month’s issue unless otherwise noted.

Please send newsletter items to:

Theresa Rohloff thescottherald@aol.com or

Louann McClelland-Long louannmc@aol.com

Please include: “MG NEWSLETTER” in your subject bar.

The Master Gardener program is a division of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Agency and can be contacted at:

1010 Lafayette Street/Suite 325,

Lafayette, Louisiana 70501

Telephone (337) 291-7090

fax (337) 291-7099

The Web site is www.lsuagcenter.com

The Louisiana cooperative extension provides equal opportunities in programs and employment. Louisiana State

University and A&M College, Louisiana Governing Bodies, Southern University, and the United States Department of

Agriculture Cooperating

A State Partner in the Cooperative

Extension System

It is the policy of the Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service that no person shall be subjected to discrimination on the

grounds of race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, or disability.

If you have a disability which requires special assistance for

your participation in our meetings, please call

337-291-7090

Please note: All meeting and event dates, times, and

locations are subject to change.

LSU AGRICULTURAL CENTER

COOPERATIVE EXTENSION SERVICE U.S. Department of Agriculture

1010 Lafayette Street, Suite 325

Lafayette, LA 70501-6884

November 1st: All Saint s Day - Pine Straw orders Demo Bed Shade House until noon

November 6th: LPMGA General Meeting at Vermilionville, 6 pm

Topic “Winter Hummingbirds in Louisiana ” courtesy of Dave Patton

LPMGA Board Member Elections at the meeting

November 9th: Second Saturday, “Hummingbirds” by Dave Patton

November 9th: Seed to TABLE planting day at Truman Elementary School grounds,

from 9 a.m. until noon. Contact Emily Neustrom for more information: 291-7193

November 9th: ULL Arbor Day celebration, 9 am

November 9th: Grass & Rock Shoppe Class, 1800 East Milton Avenue, 10 a.m.

November 10th: Deadline for ordering $5.60 replacement name badges. Call Patricia.

November 11th: Veteran’s Day … Fly your flag, Salute a Veteran!

November 14th: Deadline for Sweet Potato orders and payments

November 16th: Garden Talks, Humingbirds by Dave Patton, Ira Nelson Center, 10 a.m.

November 18th: MPMGA Board Meeting at Compass Engineering on Amb. Caffery

November 19th: Louisiana Plant Materials Conference, Burden Center Baton Rouge

November 21st: Pick up your Sweet Potato orders at Ira Nelson Center from 1 to 5 pm

November 28th: Happy Thanksgiving

December 15th: Deadline for 2014 budget submissions to Mary T. Miller (See pg. 3)

Lovely Yellow Hibiscus by Theresa Gore