prepared by Steve Dougherty 2

Introduction

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Scope of Ice School

An Introduction to Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques

Prusik out of a crevasse.

Use two ice tools to do a climb out of a crevasse with a top-roped belay.

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Recommended Reading

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Lower Eliot Glacier

prepared by Steve Dougherty 6

Middle Eliot Glacier

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Upper Eliot Glacier

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Ice Axe

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Evolution of the Ice Axe

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Evolution of the Ice Axe

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Evolution of the Ice Axe

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Ice Axe Parts

Pick

Adze

Shaft

Spike

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Ice Axe Length

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How to Carry an Ice Axe

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Ice Axe Grasps

a. Self-Arrest

b. Self-Belay

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Self-Belay

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Crampons

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Evolution of Crampons

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Purchasing Crampons

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Crampon Maintenance

File Points … grinding can cause excessive heat.

No need for excessive sharpness

Correct any splay in points.

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When to Use Crampons

Do use crampons on frozen snow and ice.

Don’t use crampons in soft snow.

Crampon effectiveness is diminished when snow accumulates between points.

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Crampon Technique

French Technique – Flat-Footing

German Technique – Front-Pointing.

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Pied Marche

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Pied En Canard

Pied Marche

Pied En Canard

Pied A Plat

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Pied A Plat

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Pied Assis

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Pied Troisieme

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Very Low Angle

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Low Angle

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Moderate to High Angle

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High Angle

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Very High Angle

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Ice Axe Technique

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Piolet Canne

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Piolet Manche

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Piolet Ramasse

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Piolet Ancre

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Piolet Panne

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Piolet Poignard

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Piolet Traction

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Piolet Rampe

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Piolet Rampe

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Low Angle

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Moderate Angle

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High Angle

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Low Angle

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Moderate Angle

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Moderate Angle

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High Angle

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Very High Angle

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Combining Techniques

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Combining Techniques

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Crevasse Self-Rescue

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Field Session Content

Morning – Practice Ice Axe and Crampon Techniques.

Lunch

Afternoon – Prusik out of crevasse; Climb out of crevasse with two ice tools.

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Climbing Equipment

sturdy crampon compatible boots

crampons

ice axe

climbing harness

locking carabiner

extra carabiner

prusik slings (5' and 9' of 6mm Perlon)

helmet

belay/rappel device

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Sat. Logistics/Schedule

4:45 AM - Meet at the State Motor Pool Park & Ride 1100 Airport Rd.

5:00 AM - Depart the State Motor Pool Park & Ride

8:00 AM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

8:30 AM - Hike to practice area on Eliot Glacier (2 miles and 1100’)

10:30 AM - Arrive at practice area on the Eliot Glacier.

11:00 AM - Glacier Walk - Practice Crampon & Ice Axe Techniques

12:00 PM - Lunch

12:30 PM - Crevasse Self Rescue

2:00 PM - Use two ice axes to climb out of a crevasse on a top rope.

3:30 PM - Hike to Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

5:00 PM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

6:00 PM – Group Dinner

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Sun. Logistics/Schedule

6:45 AM – Group breakfast

7:30 AM - Hike to practice area on Eliot Glacier

9:30 AM - Arrive at practice area on the Eliot Glacier.

10:00 AM - Glacier Walk - Practice Crampon & Ice Axe Techniques

11:00 AM - Lunch

11:30 AM - Crevasse Self Rescue

1:00 PM - Use two ice axes to climb out of a crevasse on a top rope.

2:30 PM - Hike to Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

4:00 PM - Arrive at Cloud Cap Saddle Campground

4:30 PM - Drive to Salem.

7:30 PM - Arrive at State Motor Pool Park & Ride on Airport Rd.

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The End