1

2

Legal Note, Liability & Disclaimer

All climbing & bouldering is very dangerous & always at your own risk. Nobody is forcing you

to climb. You choose to climb, so choose to go home before the risks become too high.

Remember even small injuries can take 6 weeks to heal. No responsibility for inaccurate or

incomplete information will be accepted by the various contributors to this guide. The

landowners accept no liability at all. Climbers take full responsibility for themselves at all

times. Loose rock is common, solid rock becomes loose & RD writers make up most of the

information anyway. This RD is only a guide & is no substitute for experience, training,

common sense & a touch of caution. So you are on your own…take care!

Note from the scribe

It took consistent effort, time, work & organization to get this guide ready for your pleasure...

for free! Thus please respect that all the information & photographs are strictly Copy Righted.

You are more than welcome to down load, e mail, view & print out down this guide in its

unchanged format, with logos & all information intact. This guide may not be uploaded to a

web site other than www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za without written permission.

As this is a web based guide it can be considered a continual work in progress. It is easy to

change. Please send missing details, corrections, additions & adjustments to

info@easterncaperockclimbing.co.za All information will be greatly appreciated.Gamkaskloof has some fun easy boulders on the side of the road on

the way to De Hel. The boulders are a bit scattered & so-far only 137

easy problems. There are harder problems waiting for harder chaps /

chapesses. Don’t cancel that trip to Font or Rocklands for

Gamkaskloof, but there is some fun to be had.

Access is unrestricted

Walk-In: 3 seconds to 10 minutes

Accommodation: Google obviously ☺ !

© Derek Marshall 3

30 Coombs Gorge 37 EL urban crags & bouldersToorberg Swartberg

1 Lady's Slipper Amatolas 38 Yellowsands & Inkwenkwezi44 Graff-Reinet 49 Towerkop

2 Van Stadens 31 Fort Fordyce 39 Lalapanzi 45 Compassberg 50 Oudtshoorn

3 PE urban crags & boulders32 Hogsback 40 Morgan Bay Transkei 51 Gamkaskloof Bouldering

4 Sleepy Hollow 33 Stutterheim 41 Bola 46 Hole in the Wall

5 Elands River Langkloof Winterberg 47 Hill of Execution

6 Kirkwood 19 Nguniland 42 Mary & Martha 48 Port St Johns

7 Cape St Francis 20 Kouga Wildernes 43 Hangklip

Groot Winterhoek 21 Uniondale Pass

8 Tygerhoek Garden Route

9 Naga's Kloof 22 Titzikama

10 Eagle Gorge 23 Groot Rivier

11 Momentum Gorge 24 Plett Crags

12 Pinnacle Gorge East London

13 Cockscomb 34 NSA

14 Grootbos & Kleinbos 35 Windmill Hole

15 Nivera 36 Buffalo River

Baviaans

16 Grips

17 Kudu Kaya

18 Waterkloof

Grahamstown

25 Alicedale

26 Howieson's Poort

27 Moodies

28 Bouldering

29 Thornkloof

Port Elizabeth

Eastern Cape Climbing Venues

1

N2

Ladismith

Port Elizabeth

HankeyPatensie

SteytlervilleWillowmore

Uniondale

Plettenberg Bay

Oudtshoorn

Graff-Reinet

Fort Beaufort

Grahamstown

Alicedale

QueenstownTarkastud

Middelburg

CradockNieu Bathesda

Stutterheim

Aliwal North

Jeffreys Bay

East London

Port St Johns

Coffee Bay

Mthatha

King Williams Town

Hogsback

Uitenhage

N2

N2

R329

N10

N9

R75

R322

R67

R62

R63

R62

23

4

15

1617

18

6

7

192021

2223

24

8-14

49

46

5

4748

5051

25 29

28

30

31

32

38

39

40

41

42

44

45

34-37

26-27

33

43

N6

N2

More route guides can be found on

www.easterncaperockclimbing.co.za

4

R328

Outdshoorn

R328

Prince

Albert

Waba sê Klip

11.3km, Page 11

Shangri-La

10.6km, Page 7

Fogoda

10km, Page 6

First Stop

1.3km, Page 5

Loppie

12km, Page 12

Peanuts

13.9km, Page 14

Stone HouseKoos sê Klip

15.1km, Page 15

Magic Muffin

12km, Page 13

5

1.3 km from the T junction towards Die Hel. On the LHS.

A1 The Great A Batwa ⚫ 5 BS on jugs, heel hook & top out.

2 Oh Free Indeed⚫ 5 BS on jugs, heel hook & top out.

B

1 What About Us ⚫ 5 BS on jugs, top out.

2 Dead Has Been ⚫ 5 BS on jug rail, top out.

3 Leader of The Resistance ⚫ 6A BS on jug rail, move out L through the roof.

4 Willfully Asleep ⚫ 6A+ BS on jug rail, move out over nose.

5 All Worked Out ⚫ 6A+ BS on jug, out moving R.

6 We Feel Nothing ⚫ 5 BS on jug, directly up.

7 Battle Beast ⚫ 5C BS on large jug, traverse R on crimps below the lip. Traverse all the way round to the start jug.

BA B

First S

top

25

1525

56A+

65

15

36A

75C

46A+

6

10 km from the T junction towards Die Hel. On the LHS, about 20m from the road.

A

1 Fogoda 6A BS on side pull, up over step.

2 Your Destiny Awaits 6A+ BS on crimps, move slightly L to top out.

3 Mitt Gott En De Mauser 6A SS on crimps, directly up.

4 Make America Metal Again 5 BS on arête, directly up.

5 Sole Sole ⚫ 5 BS on ramp to R of arête.

B

1 Our Glory ⚫ 5 BS on jugs, up over rounded arête.

2 Role of Honour ⚫ 5 BS on jugs.

3 The Pup ⚫ 6A+ BS on jugs, traverse L using edge, Traverse all the way till it gets too easy.

AF

og

od

a

A

A

B

16A 26A+

36A 45 45 55

15

25

36A+

To Swartberg

Pass

10km from

Swartberg

PassTo Die

Hel

Waba sê Klip

Fogoda

Shangri-La

B

A

7

10.6 km from the T junction towards Die Hel. On the LHS, about 200m from the road.

A

1 Trauma 4 BS, up easy face.

2 Achieve This Victory 6B BS on side pulls, move R to juggy nose, up ramp.

3 Freedom Calls 5 BS on jug RH & undercling LH, onto rail, up ramp.

B

1 You Shall Be The One 4 BS on jugs, up face.

2 I Am The Hunter 5 Low feet start on jugs. Pull through directly.

3 Forward Fire Control 5 BS on jug, pull through.

4 Sappers Clear The Way 5 BS in notch, through rail.

C

1 Ignorance 5 BS up easy ramp arête.

2 Watch your Back 5 BS, up easy smear ramp.

3 Unstoppable 5 BS on locked stone, up easy arête.

4 Persuing God 6A BS, up small L facing open book.

A

Sh

ang

ri-La

B

B

C

1435

14 3525

4525

35

15

46A

C

26B

To Swartberg

Pass

10.6km from

Swartberg

Pass To Die

Hel

Waba sê Klip

Fogoda

Shangri-La

BA

C

DE

F

G

H

IJ

K

M

L

8

E

1 Inocence I Know 5 BS on jugs, up broken arête.

2 Get Up ⚫ 6A+ SS, up braken arête.

3 Bread of Life ⚫ 6A+ SS, up prominent break & continue up ramp crack.

4 Send Me an Angel ⚫ 6A+SS, up face into diagonal crack. Rail L & around the corner, then

up the hand crack.

F 1 Piece of Cake ⚫ 6A BS on crimp, up arête.

E

15 E

E

36A+26A+

46A+

46A+

F

16A

G16A 26A+ 36A

45 6555

G

86B

76A 96A+

G

1 Lost Horizon 5 BS on small crimps, directly up.

2 Really Not That Sorry 5 BS on small crimps, directly up.

3 Hunter‘s Moon 5 BS on small crimps, directly up.

4 Peach Blossom Spring 5 BS on small crimps, directly up.

5 Luz 5 BS on small crimps, directly up.

6 Kushta 5 BS on small crimps, directly up.

7 Shangri-La 6A BS on jugs, over ledge.

106A

G

G

8 Shambhala 6B BS on overhanging break. Break out to top.

9 Sapere Aude ⚫ 6A+ BS on jagged arête, LH on undercling.

10 We Are The Unknown ⚫ 6A BS on jug, out L onto slopper. L again ito crack.

H 1 From The Ashes We Will Rise ⚫ 6B BS, up blunt arête.

26A+

Sh

ang

ri-La

9

H 1 From The Ashes We Will Rise ⚫ 6B BS, up blunt arête.

I

1 Symphony of Destruction 6A SS on arête.

2 Twilight of the Underdog 6A+ BS on middle crack. Directly up.

3 Battle Front 5B BS under overhang.

J 1 Happy Ending 6B SS, up middle break.

K

1 A Shadow In My Life 5B BS in sharp crimp rail.

2 Feel Alive 6A+ BS in sharp crimp rail.

3 Ghosts of the Past 5 SS on jugs.

4 I Feel No More 6A BS under arête.

Fo

go

da

Sh

ang

ri-La

16B

H

I

J

26A+

16A35B

16B

K

15B

26A+35

46A

L

L

To Swartberg

Pass

10.6km from

Swartberg

Pass To Die

Hel

Waba sê Klip

Fogoda

Shangri-La

BA

C

DE

F

G

H

IJ

K

M

L

10

M

1 Enraged 6B+ BS on sharp crimp pockets.

2 Imploder 6B+ BS on pinches, up over crack.

3 Open Their Eyes 5 SS, up jagged arête.

4 Till The End 5 Hang start on jug, directly up.

5 Without Regrets 5 BS on side pull, directly up.

6 Unstoppable 5 BS on side pull, directly up.

7 Soon We Will Attack 5 BS on side pull, directly up arête.

8 Toegether We Will March ⚫ 5 BS on crimp, up moving R.

9 Unhappy Ending ⚫ 5 BS in crack, out a bit L.

Fo

go

da

Sh

ang

ri-La

M

M M

M16B+

35

35

75

65 85

45

5575

16B+

95

26B+

To Swartberg

Pass

10.6km from

Swartberg

Pass To Die

Hel

Waba sê Klip

Fogoda

Shangri-La

BA

C

DE

F

G

H

IJ

K

M

L

11

11.3 km from the T junction towards Die Hel. On the LHS, about 8m from the road.

A

1 Initialized ⚫ 6B+ AS on large sloper. R through roof.

2 Wabba Chabba ⚫ 6B AS on large sloper. R through roof.

3 Side Show ⚫ 6B+ AS on jug side pull. L into rail.

4 L.O.V.E. Machine ⚫ 6B+ AS on RH jug side pull. Move through the prow.

5 Simple 5 SS on side pulls.

6 Ancient Sun Shine 5 SS diagonal crack.

7 Kilograms per cm² 5B SS into under cling.

8 Natural Girls 5A SS into diagonal side pull.

9 Wabba Wie? 5 SS on wide apart crimpers.

10 Chainsaw Charlie ⚫ 5 SS low from a nice jug.

A

Wab

a sêK

lip

26B

36B+

A

46B+

6555

95

105

75B 85A

16B+

To

Swartberg

Pass

A

11.3km from

Swartberg

Pass

To Die

HelPark

Waba sê Klip

12

12 km from the T junction towards Die Hel. Loppie is on the LHS.

B

1 Not A Must 5C SS, up prominent break.

2 Loppit 6B+ BS on jam side pulls in crack.

3 Loppie Pops 6A SS from jug.

4 Snooze You Loose 6B+ BS under overhanging arête.

5 Ting-a-ling 5A SS.

6 Frog 5 SS.

7 Choof 5 SS.

8 Witches Dog 6A SS.

9 Follow Through 6A SS up R trending diagonal.

10 Whale 4 BS easy. Use for down climb.

11 Blubber 5 SS easy. Slight overhang.

12 A New Alliance 5A SS on side pulls.

13 Crack-a-Doie 6A BS up crack system.

14Assignment of

Alignment5

SS just R of LH arête. Up on easy

ground.

15 Draconian Measures 5 SS up past prominent rectangular jug.

16 Rise to The Skies 5C SS, up just R of middle of face.

17Constitutional

Revolution5

SS on jugs, move R around the corner &

up ramp.

C 1 Last-But-Not-Least 6A SS on crimps, continue up crack system.

BA

B

Lo

pp

ie

P

PP

B

104

B

65

To

Swartberg

Pass

?

A

B

C

12km from

Swartberg

Pass

To Die

Hel

Loppit

Park

Magic

Muffin

15C

46B+46B+

96A

115125A

136A

145155

165C 175

C

36A

96A86A

75

26B+

55A

16A

13

12 km from the Swartberg pass T junction towards Die Hel. Park at a T junction. On the RHS.

A

1 Any Given Day 6A SS RH on small side pull, up sloppy ramp.

2 Lets Move On ⚫ 5B SS on jugs, directly up over horn.

3 Premonitions of War 5C SS on rail L of horn. Directly up.

4 The Hidden Truth 6A SS on rail, directly up.

5 A War of Our Own 6B+ SS on jug rail, dyno for the top.

6 Dollemore 6A SS on crimp, up break.

7 Any Given Day 6A SS on primp, up break.

B

1 Good Luck ⚫ 4 BS on jug rail, directly up.

2 Changed Sides 5C BS on jug rail, move R on rails.

3 Against Myself 5 SS on jug rail, up on rails.

4 I Doubt It 5 SS on jug rail, up on rails.

5 Seven Spires ⚫ 6A+ SS, LH on crip, up into jug & rails. Move R over the nose.

C

1 Stormy Watch ⚫ 5 BS on rail, directly up.

2 Adversries 6A BS on jugs, directly up overhanging break.

3 Cracks in The System 6B BS on jug rail, directly up.

4 Life of War ⚫ 5C BS under break. Directly up.

AA A

Mag

ic Mu

ffin

46A76A66A

66A

A

25C

25B

56B+

16A

35C

56A+

14

B

4535

C36B

45C

15 26A

To

Swartberg

Pass

?

A

B

C12km from

Swartberg

Pass

To Die

Hel

Loppit

Park

Magic

Muffin

14

13.9 km from the Swartberg pass T junction towards Die Hel, 3 boulders before the block house.

A

1 Remarkable Result ⚫ 5B BS on jug, up moving L on arête.

2 Reindeer ⚫ 5A BS on crimps, up moving R.

3 Outros Inimigos ⚫ 6A BS on crimps. Directly up.

B1 The Rhodesians 6A+ BS on big side pull on arête. Up arête.

2 Tribute to The Fallen 6A Hang low start on jugs. Directly up.

C

1 A New Tradition 5C SS on crimps, up ramp.

2 Nos March Amos Sem Terror 5C SS on crimps, up ramp.

3 We March Without Fear 5C BS in break, up moving L onto arête.

4 Our Glory 5 BS under small overhang. Directly up.

A

A

C

Pean

uts

C

B

To

Swartberg

Pass

13.9 km from

Swartberg

Pass

To Die

Hel

Park

Magic

Muffin

CB

A

Block

House

Into

Kloof

15B26A

36A 16A+ 26A

25C

15C

35C

45

15

15.1 km from the T junction towards Die Hel. On the RHS is a small sign posted

boulder & a field of boulders running up the hill on the LHS.

A

1 Koosie! 6B+ BS on crimps, up arête in the road.

2 Doosie 5 BS off rock to L of sign.

3 Pikwyn 5 BS on ramp, diagonal L on jugs.

4 Nie Vok! 6B+ BS, match on jug, out R to jug.

5 Koel 6B SS L on large crimp, R on triangular point.

6 Fat Kitty 6B+ SS, Jugs, rail 3.5m to top out.

B

1 Obstruction of Justice ⚫ 5A BS, up easy jugs.

2 Lose Your Concience ⚫ 5A BS, up easy jugs.

3 All I Wanna Do is Fight ⚫ 5A BS, up easy jugs.

4 We Got A Lot To Lose ⚫ 5A BS, up easy jugs.

5 Incarnate ⚫ 5 BS, up easy jugs.

AA

B

Ko

os S

êK

lip

56B

66B+

46B+

352516B+

B B B

A

25A

15A

35A45A

55

ParkA

FG

C B

D

E

J

I

P

ON

M

K LQ

RH

S

W

X

T

U

VZ YШ

16

C1 Life Scream ⚫ 5C BS on crimps, directly up.

2 Singing Out ⚫ 5C BS on jug, directly up.

D1 Your Power ⚫ 5 BS on crimps, directly up.

2 I‘m Not Laughing ⚫ 5 BS on jug rail, up on crimps.

E

1 We are The Universe 6A SS on underclin jug, up small open book.

2 Darkness Meets the Day 5 BS on jug, directly up.

3 You are Not Aloan 5C SS on rounded arête, directly up.

4 Testicular Fortitude ⚫ 6A+ SS on jug, directly up.

F

1 Excisise Fat Cat II 5 BS, up blunt arête.

2 Velt Skoen Koosie 5 SS, directly up the middle.

3 Fashion Boss 5C BS on LHS of layaway.

DC

F

Ko

os S

êK

lip

46A+

D

E E

15C25C

25

15

25

25

16A

35C

1525

35C

ParkA

FG

C B

D

E

J

I

P

ON

M

K LQ

RH

S

W

X

T

U

VZ YШ

17

H

1 Land of The Morning Star ⚫ 5 SS on slopers directly up.

2 Desperate Effort ⚫ 6A+ BS on slopers L of arête.

3 The Attack 5 BS on jug & side pull, up.

4 More Clashes 5 BS on jug, move L on ramp.

Ko

os S

êK

lip

352516B+

GGG H

H

H

I

I

I

ParkA

FG

C B

D

E

J

I

P

ON

M

K LQ

RH

S

W

X

T

U

VZ Y

Ш

26A+15C25C

15

35

45

18

Ko

os S

êK

lipJJ

J K

H

H

L M N

KKK

O P

19

Ko

os S

êK

lipQQ

Q

U V

Q

R

W

X

S T

ParkA

FG

C B

D

E

J

I

P

ON

M

K LQ

RH

S

W

X

T

U

VZ YШ

20

Ko

os S

êK

lipZ

Y

Y

Ш

Z

Ш

ParkA

FG

C B

D

E

J

I

P

ON

M

K LQ

RH

S

W

X

T

U

VZ YШ