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Poucher s Perfumes, Cosmetics and

Soaps

Volume 3

Cosmetics



Poucher s Perfumes, Cosmetics

and Soaps

Volume

3

Cosmetics

NINTH E ITION

dited

nd

revised

by

Hilda Butler

Consultant

in

Cosmetics

U SPRINGER-SCIENCE BUSINESS MEDIA,

B.v.



First edition 1923

Reprinted 1976, 1979,

1984

Ninth edition 1993

© 1993 Springer Science+Business Media Dordrecht

Originally published by Chapman Hall in 1993

Typeset in 10 12 pt Times by Best-set Typesetter Ltd., Hong Kong

ISBN 978 94 010 4650 3

Apart from any fair dealing for the purposes of research or private study,

or

criticism

or

review,

as

permitted under the UK Copyright Designs and

Patents Act, 1988, this publication may not be reproduced, stored, or

transmitted, in any form or by any means, without the prior permission in

writing of the publishers, or in the case of reprographic reproduction only

in accordance with the terms of the licences issued

by

the Copyright

Licensing Agency in the UK, or in accordance with the terms of licences

issued by the appropriate Reproduction Rights Organization outside the

UK. Enquiries concerning reproduction outside the terms stated here

should be sent to the publishers at the London address printed on this

page.

The publisher makes no representation, express or implied, with regard

to the accuracy of the information contained in this book and cannot

accept any legal responsibility or liability for any errors or omissions that

may be made.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication data

Butler, Hilda.

Modern cosmetics. - 9th ed. edited and revised by Hilda Butler.

p. cm. - (Poucher s perfumes, cosmetics, and soaps; v. 3)

Updated ed. of: Modern cosmetics

by

W.A. Poucher. 8th ed.

1975.

Includes index.

ISBN 978-94-010-4650-3 ISBN 978-94-011-1482-0 (eBook)

DOI 10.1007/978-94-011-1482-0

1. Cosmetics. I Poucher, W.A. (William Arthur). Modern

cosmetics. II. Title. III Series: Poucher, W.A. (William

Arthur). Perfumes, cosmetics, and soaps; v. 3.

TP983.P723 vol. 3

1992

668 .5 - dc20 92-30592

CIP



Contents

Contributors

vii

Preface

x

Foreword

xii

PART ONE

1

Antiperspirants and deodorants

Brian R. Cuzner and Philip Klepak

3

2

Bath and shower products

Anthony

L L

Hunting

27

3

Dental and mouthwash preparations

Stephen Mason

64

4

Depilatories, masks, scrubs and bleaching preparations

Kenneth Morris

91

5

Face powders

Sue Hurst

109

6

Hair treatments

F.l. Mottram

130

7

Hair shampoos

F.l. Mottram

170

8

Hair colourants

Bryan P Murphy

194

9

Lipstick

D.

Max Bryce

212

10

Manicure preparations

Mitchell

L

Schlossman 243

11

Men s toiletries

Ahmed l

Sahir

258



vi

Contents

12

Pressurized dispensers

David Page

288

13

Rouges, blushers

and

eye cosmetics

Angela Janousek

308

14 Skin

preparations

Grace Abamba

335

15

Soap

Michael Willcox

393

16

Sunburn

and

sunscreen preparations

Laurence W. Ashley

405

PART TWO

17

Analytical

methods

Douglas

C.

Cullum

443

18

Efficacy testing

of

cosmetics

and

toiletries

Marion Roberts

491

19

Emulsion theory

John

L

Knowlton

534

20

Legislation

and

safety regulations for cosmetics in

the

United

States,

Europe and

Japan

556

Louis

G.

Santucci and Jennifer

M.

Rempe

21

Microbiological control

of

cosmetics

Hilda Butler

574

22

Safety

John

D.

Middleton

607

23

Stability testing

John S. Cannell

620

PART THREE

24

Historical

background

Hilda Butler

639

25

Perfume and the

manufacture of

consumer

products

Norman

J

Van

Abbe

693

26

The psychology of fragrance

Jean Ann Graham

728

Index

740



Contributors

Grace Abamba

s c

Johnson

Milton Park

Egham

Surrey TW20

9UH

UK

Laurence W. Ashley

Technical Service Manager

Boehringer Ingelheim

Ellesfield A venue

Bracknell

Berkshire RG12 4YS

UK

D. Max Bryce, FRSC

Long Eaton

Derbyshire

UK

Hilda Butler, FRSC

Northwood

Middlesex

UK

John S. Cannell, FRPharmS

Eastleigh

Hampshire

UK

Douglas C. Cullum

Hillside Bush Way

Heswall

Wirral L60 9JB

UK

Brian Cuzner

Managing Director

Wilfrid Smith, Ltd

Edgware

Middlesex HAS 7ET

UK

Jean Ann Graham, PhD

Psychological Research Consultant

Prestatyn

Clwyd

North Wales

UK

Anthony L L Hunting

Micelle Press

12 Ullswater Crescent

Weymouth

Dorset DT3 5HE

UK

Sue Hurst

Managing Director

MiDAS

40 Colney Hatch Lane

East Finchley

London NlO

1DU

UK

Angela Janousek

Director, Technical Resources

Quest International

Ashford

Kent TN24 OLT

UK



Norman J. Van Abbe, FRPharmS

Esher

Surrey

UK

Contributors ix

Michael Willcox

Technical Director

Standard Soap Co. Ltd

Croda Cosmetics and Toiletries

Ashby de la Zouch

Leicestershire LE6 5N G

UK



Preface

Cosmetic Science has developed greatly since the publication

of

the 8th

edition of this textbook in 1974. Although the first part of this volume still

consists of chapters about product preparations in alphabetical order,

each product category has been revised and updated by a specialist. An

outline of the biology, structure and function of skin, hair, teeth and

nails and the reasons for the need for cosmetics are given in those

dealing with the relevant preparations. Throughout, the word Cosmetics

includes toiletries and thus all products which protect, cleanse, adorn,

and perfume the human body, and combat body odour and perspiration.

The

f

spelling for the element sulfur and its derivatives has been

used following the recommendations of the International Union of Pure

and Applied Chemistry (IUP AC) and the decision taken by the Royal

Society of Chemistry (RSC) and the British Standards Institute (BSI) to

use

f

instead of ph in all their publications. This stems from the

derivation of the use of the f from Latin and its use in England until the

15th century.

Deionized water has been used in the formulations because many

manufacturers standardize the water supply to the factory by removing

cations and anions by exchange resin treatment. This lessens the variation

in ionic content which can occur in the mains water. A typical design for a

water supply of constant quality in factories, which can be tailored to

fit

local conditions, was described for the Max Factor Company by

N. Wheeler and J. Kilsheimer in the Water Documentary issue of

Cosmetic and Toiletries in 1983. The properties of the water supply and its

treatment are also discussed elsewhere, especially in Chapter 15 page

403

and Chapter

21

page 595.

In most formulae the quantities for preservatives and perfume are

indicated by q.s. -

quantum sufficit.

I t would be unwise to be more exact

when the actual quantities depend on the results of research on each

formulation where differing raw materials, methods and conditions of

production will occur. In some formulae the main ingredients already add

up to 100

and the preservatives and perfume appear as extras - q.s. When



Preface Xl

these two are determined as a result of tests and the two quantities are

significant then an equivalent amount can be deducted from the largest

ingredient present to maintain the total at 100.

These tests at the development stage will be described by the chapters

in the second part and give an idea of the research needed to produce a

safe, stable and successful product which is acceptable to Governments

and Consumers alike. This would have been appreciated by Poucher

who at the end of the preface to the 6th edition, advised: keep the

formulations simple and give the experiments long shelf tests, with

frequent observations before finally approving a formula .

n a previous volume Poucher included a historical sketch. This has

been retained and brought up to date in the present edition, followed

by a chapter of advice on perfuming products, and finally one on the

psychology of fragrance. My thanks are due to the authors who have

spent so much time and trouble in providing their contributions; and to

all others who have helped to make this book possible.

Hilda Butler, Editor

1992



Foreword

There can be no doubt

as

to the importance of cosmetics and cosmetic

science - this edition of

Poucher s Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps

is at

once powerful evidence of the importance of its subject and of the

detailed study of its applications. Cosmetics are as old as mankind

itself. Even in the most primitive societies the use of deodorants and

decorative cosmetics was universal, and the same basic objectives

remain unchanged today although the means employed to further them

are now far more complex and are scientifically based and controlled.

The importance of the subject fully warrants the increasing attention

being paid to it in recent years and this new edition of Poucher illustrates

both the advances made to date and direction of further progress. Mrs

Hilda Butler is to be congratulated on her provision of a volume both

practical and fascinating as well as comprehensive and I commend it not

just to the practitioners of cosmetic science but to all chemists interested

in the practical development of their science.

Lord

Todd OM, FRS

Cambridge, 1992

Editor s note: Lord Todd is

Patron

of

the Society

of

Cosmetic Scientists

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