plan your trip 12 new orleans - lonely planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll...
TRANSCRIPT
Plan Your Trip 12
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
New Orleans
Adam Karlin, Ray Bartlett
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to New Orleans �������������������� 4
New Orleans’ Top 10 ������ 6
What’s New ��������������������13
Need to Know ����������������14
First Time New Orleans ������������������ 16
Top Itineraries ��������������� 18
If You Like��� ��������������������20
Month By Month ������������22
With Kids ������������������������26
Eating ����������������������������28Drinking & Nightlife����32Entertainment ������������ 37Shopping ���������������������� 40LGBT+ New Orleans ����������������42
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand New Orleans 187
Survival Guide 213
New Orleans Maps 232
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore New Orleans 44
Transportation ������������ 214
Directory A–Z ��������������218
Glossary �����������������������223
Index �����������������������������225
New Orleans Today ���������������������������� 188
History ��������������������������190
People of New Orleans ��������������� 200
Architecture ����������������203
Music ���������������������������208
Environment �����������������211
French Quarter ��������������48
Mardi Gras & Jazz Fest ��������������������� 74
Faubourg Marigny & Bywater ����������������������82
CBD & Warehouse District ����������������������������95
St Charles Avenue Streetcar ������������������������110
Garden, Lower Garden & Central City ��������������� 112
Uptown & Riverbend ��� 125
Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park ����� 139
Tremé-Lafitte ��������������� 151
Day Trips from New Orleans ������������������������161
Sleeping ���������������������� 173
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FrenchQuarter
CBD & WarehouseDistrict
Uptown &Riverbend
Garden,Lower Garden &
Central City
Mid-City,Bayou St John
& City ParkFaubourgMarigny &Bywater
Tremé-Lafittep139
p82
p48
p112p125
p151
p95
(left) Insectarium p99
(above) Beignets, Café du Monde p63
(right) Rainbow flags, French Quarter p48
Top ItinerariesDay OneFrench Quarter (p48)
M Wake up and smell the coffee (and enjoy a croissant) at Croissant D’Or
Patisserie (p63). Afterwards, take a stroll around the streets as they wake up (or shake off last night), and then sign up for the Friends of the Cabildo walking tour (p73), our favorite introduction to the architectural wonders of the French Quarter.
French Quarter (p48)
R Wander through Jackson Square (p52), the green heart of the neigh-
borhood, and explore the Quarter’s muse-ums, such as the Cabildo (p50) and Pres-bytère (p53), where you can learn more about the history of New Orleans and Louisiana. Afterwards, enjoy a free after-noon concert at the Old US Mint (p57).
French Quarter (p48)
N Relax with a drink at Bar Tonique (p64) or French 75 (p66), two of the
finest cocktail bars in a city that invented the cocktail. Take in a show at Preservation Hall (p68) or One Eyed Jacks (p69), and when the music is over, have a 3am breakfast at the Clover Grill (p63).
Day TwoCBD & Warehouse District (p95)
M Spend a morning visiting the Ogden Museum of Southern Art (p98). Once
you’ve immersed yourself in the aesthetics of the region, consider immersing yourself in the contemporary art scene at the appro-priately dubbed Contemporary Arts Center (p99), and maybe catch a gallery on Julia St while you’re at it.
Garden, Lower Garden & Central City (p112)
R Stroll along pretty Magazine St in a state of shopping nirvana. Then
walk north, pop into Lafayette Cemetery No 1 (p114) and hop onto the St Charles Avenue Streetcar (p129), heading west toward Audu-bon Park (p128). Along the way, you’ll soak up the lovely architecture and the shade of live oak trees that runs along all of St Charles Ave. Afterwards, continue along in the streetcar towards the Riverbend.
Uptown & Riverbend (p125)
N Have a boozy night perusing the ex-cellent beer menu at Cooter Brown’s
Tavern & Oyster Bar (p135) and consider having an oyster or ten on the side. Then fin-ish it off by heading to the Maple Leaf Bar (p136) or Tipitina’s (p136) and rocking out to whoever is playing.
Dinner Modern Louisianan at Bayona (p60), base of local hero Susan Spicer.
Lunch Mister Gregory’s (p63): French baguettes with truly innovative fillings.
Dinner Creative Vietnamese at Ba Chi Canteen (p129).
Lunch Cochon Butcher (p101) for artisan meats with a Cajun twist.
18 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Day ThreeFaubourg Marigny & Bywater (p82)
M Get the day going with oysters and grits at Cake Café & Bakery (p86).
Eat early so you can join the morning Creole Neighborhoods cycle tour with Confederacy of Cruisers (p94). If you don’t fancy traveling on two wheels, walk past Washington Square Park (p85) and Elysian Fields Ave into the residential portion of the Marigny and just lose yourself amidst all of the candy-colored houses.
Faubourg Marigny & Bywater (p82)
R Walk east (or ‘down’ in New Orleans directional-speak) along
Royal or Congress Sts and check out the riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By-water; look for Dr Bob’s Studio (p93). Then take a walk into the Crescent Park (p84), where you can enjoy great views of the Mississippi.
Faubourg Marigny & Bywater (p82)
N Head back into Faubourg Marigny to listen to live music on St Claude
Ave or on Frenchmen Street (p84).
Lunch Lost Love (p87) dive bar has a surprise Vietnamese kitchen.
Dinner Bacchanal (p88) for wine and cheese in a musical garden.
Day FourTremé-Lafitte (p151)
M Consider renting a bicycle and rid-ing around the Tremé; Governor
Nicholls St is particularly attractive. Driv-ing is also an option. While in the neigh-borhood, don’t miss the Backstreet Cultur-al Museum (p154); from here, it’s an easy walk into Louis Armstrong Park. (p154)
Tremé-Lafitte (p151)
R Head up Esplanade Avenue (p143) and gawk at all the gorgeous Creole
mansions sitting prettily under live oaks. Take Esplanade Ave all the way to City Park (p141) and wander around the New Orleans Museum of Art (p143). Afterwards, you can relax for a spell under the trees or along the banks of bucolic Bayou St John.
Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park (p139)
N Have a well-mixed drink at friendly Twelve Mile Limit (p148); it also
serves barbecue, in case you feel peckish again. Now that the night is ending, con-sider catching some more live music (this is New Orleans, folks) at a favorite venue you’ve discovered during your trip.
Lunch Willie Mae’s Scotch House (p158) Get the fried chicken. Just do it.
Dinner Café Degas (p147) for fabu-lously romantic French fine dining.
19PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
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Behind the Scenes
WRITER THANKSAdam KarlinThanks to Trisha Ping, for putting me on this assignment this time around, and to Jennye Garibaldi for putting me on it the first time. Thanks also to the ever-expanding NOLA family: Dan; Bobby; Dorothy; Trish; Jonah, Mel and Lincoln; Molly, Travis and Sylvie; AJ, Halle, Hugo and Sadie; Adrian, Darcy and Seb; Mike, Nora, David and Dash; and all the crew at UNO. My thanks to Mom and Dad for everything. Finally, thanks to Rachel and Sanda for being the greatest exploration team ever assembled, and to ‘Gus’, an oncoming explorer in his own right.
Ray BartlettThanks first and always to my family for making this possible, and for putting up with me. Thanks to Trisha Ping, my awesome editor, and to my fine coauthor Adam Karlin. Hugs to everyone who showed me around their amazing city: Gimena and Miles; Lindsey and Nick; Barrett, Shemsi, Ilana, Nancy, Henny, Angel and Lexi, to name just a few. And a shout out to all the other incredible NOLA denizens who made researching this such an awe-some voyage. I can’t wait to come back.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSCover photograph: Canal Streetcar, French Quarter, Jason Langley/Alamy ©
THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Orleans guide-book was researched and written by Adam Karlin and Ray Bartlett, and curated by Adam. The previous two editions were written by Amy C Balfour and Adam. This guidebook was produced by the following:
Destination Editor Trisha PingSenior Product Editor Vicky SmithProduct Editor Ronan AbayawickremaSenior Cartographer Alison LyallCartographer James LevershaBook Designer Gwen Cotter
Assisting Editors James Bainbridge, Jacqueline Danam, Melanie Dankel, Carly Hall, Alexander KnightsCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Victoria Harrison, Lesya Hrycenko, Aslihan Karatas, Kate Kiely, Jessica Ryan, Angela Tinson, Sam Wheeler
224 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Index1850 House Museum 57
AA Streetcar Named
Desire 111Acadian Cultural Center
(Lafayette) 168Acadian people 202Acadian Village
(Lafayette) 167-8Acadiana 191accents 201accessible travel 218accommodations 15,
173-86, see also Sleep-ing subindex, individual neighborhoods
parking 173activities, see Sports &
Activities subindex, individual neighborhoods
A Gallery for Fine Photography 58
air travel 214-15Alcee Fortier Park 144Alex Beard Studio 128ambulance 219Amistad Research Center 129Annie Miller’s Son’s Swamp
& Marsh Tours (The Bayou) 165
antiques 40Aquarium of the Americas
26, 99architecture 203-7, 7, 20,
7, 20, 45, 203, 205, 206, see also individual neighborhoods
area codes 221Art Garden 84Arthur Roger Gallery 100arts 21, 37, 40Ashé Cultural Arts Center 115
ATMs 220Audubon Institute 100Audubon Louisiana Nature
Center 13Audubon Park 128Audubon Zoo 26, 127, 127
BBackstreet Cultural
Museum 154, 158ballet 38B&Bs 173Barataria Preserve (The
Bayou) 27, 163-4Barmuda Triangle 89basketball 108bathrooms 221bayous 145, 163-5Bayou St John
(neighborhood) 47, 139-50, 139, 252-3, 12
activities 150drinking 140, 148-9entertainment 149food 140, 145-8highlights 139-42nightlife 140, 148-9shopping 149-50sights 141-5sports & activities 150transport 140
Bayou St John 12, 143, 12Bayou, The (area) 163-5Bayou Woman
Adventures (The Bayou) 165
Bearcat Cafe 130-1Beauregard, PGT 189Beauregard-Keyes House 57beer 33beignets 30Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras
World 115boat travel 216boating 150Bolden, Charles ‘Buddy’ 208Bonaparte, Napoleon 192
Botanical Gardens 144Breaux Bridge 167-70bus travel 215, 216business hours 29butterflies 26, 99, 3Butler, Benjamin 195Byrd, Henry Roeland 208Bywater 47, 82-94, 82,
238-9accommodations 83, 180-1activities 94drinking 83, 88-90entertainment 90-3food 83, 86-8highlights 82-3nightlife 83, 88-90shopping 93-4sights 84-6sports 94transport 83
CCabildo 50-1, 50Cajun Country Swamp Tours
(Breaux Bridge) 169Cajun Man’s Swamp Tours
& Adventures (The Bayou) 165
Cajun Music Hall of Fame & Museum (Cajun Prairie) 171
Cajun people 202Cajun Prairie 170-2Cajun wetlands 167-8canoeing 150car rental 216-17car travel 216-17Carnival 22, 193Carousel Gardens
Amusement Park 143-4casket girls 69CBD 47, 95-109, 95, 242-3
accommodations 96, 181-4
activities 109drinking 96, 104-7
entertainment 107-8food 96, 101-4highlights 95-6, 97, 98landmarks 102nightlife 96, 104-5, 107shopping 96, 108-9sights 97-101sports 109transport 96
Celebration in the Oaks 142cell phones 14cemeteries 156cemetery tours 156Central City 112-24, 112,
246-7accommodations 113,
184-5activities 124drinking 113, 120-2entertainment 122food 113, 116-20highlights 112-13, 114shopping 113, 122-4sights 114-16sports 124transport 113
Champagne’s Swamp Tours (Breaux Bridge) 169
Chicot State Park (Cajun Prairie) 170children, travel with 26-7, 174City Park 27, 141-2, 141City Park (neighborhood)
139-50, 139, 252-3activities 150drinking 140, 148-9entertainment 149food 140, 145-8highlights 139-40, 141-2history 141nightlife 140, 148-9shopping 149-50sights 141-5sports 150transport 140
climate 15
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
See also separate subindexes for:
5 EATING P228
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P229
3 ENTERTAINMENT P230
7 SHOPPING P230
4 SLEEPING P231
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P231
225©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
climbing 94Clouet Gardens 84cocktails 9, 32-3, 9coffee 33-4Coliseum Square 115Confederate Memorial Hall
Museum 100Confederate statues 189Congo Square 154, 155Contemporary Arts Center
99-100costs 14, 29, 173, 174,
218, 221credit cards 220Creole architecture 7, 204,
205, 206, 7Creole cottages 206Creole food 20-1, 28Creole people 191-2, 200Crescent Park 10, 27, 84, 11culture 188-9currency 14Customs regulations 218cycling 94, 215-16Cypremort Point State
Park (Cajun wetlands) 168
Ddance 38Davis, Jefferson 189Destrehan Plantation (Plan-
tation Country) 162drinking & nightlife 9, 32-6,
34, 9, 32, see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighborhoods
clubs 34costs 33opening hours 33
Eeconomy 188-9electricity 218emergencies 219entertainment 37-9, see
also Entertainment subindex, individual neighborhoods
environmental issues 188-9, 211-12, 215
Esplanade Avenue 143etiquette 17, 220events, see festivals &
events
FFair Grounds Race
Course 144Faubourg Marigny 46-7,
82-94, 82, 238-9accommodations 83,
180-1activities 94drinking 83, 88-90entertainment 90-3food 83, 86-8highlights 82-3nightlife 83, 86-8shopping 93-4sights 84-6sports 94transport 83
faubourgs 204festivals & events 22-5, see
also individual neighborhoods
Bayou Boogaloo 23children, with 27French Quarter
Festival 23Gay Easter Parade 23, 42Jazz Fest 23, 74-81, 75,
77, 80Mardi Gras 9, 22, 27, 74-
81, 8, 75, 76-7, 79Running of the Bulls 23Southern Decadence 24,
43, 24film 38, 188fire 219Fly 129food 28-31, 30 3, 28,
80, see also Eating subindex, individual neighborhoods
costs 29opening hours 29
free attractions 21French influence 190-1French Market 57French Quarter 46, 48-73,
48, 234-5, 3, 17, 26, 45, 203
accommodations 49, 176-80
activities 73drinking 64, 66-8entertainment 68-70food 59-64highlights 48-9, 50-5nightlife 64, 66-8shopping 70-3sights 50-5sports 73walks 65, 65
Frenchmen Street 84Freret Street 130
GGallery Burguieres 58Gallier Hall 100Gallier House
Museum 57Garden 47, 112-24, 246-7
accommodations 113, 184-5
activities 124drinking 113, 120-2entertainment 122food 113, 116-20highlights 112-13, 114nightlife 113, 120-2 shopping 113, 122-4sights 114-16sports 124transport 113walks 117, 121, 117, 121
gardens, see parks & gardens
Gay Easter Parade 23, 42gay travelers 42-3George Schmidt Gallery 101ghost tours 160gumbo 29
HHarouni Gallery 56haunted hotels 178Healing Center 84health 219Hemmerling Gallery of
Southern Art 58Hermann-Grima
House 57Historic Voodoo
Museum 58history 124, 145, 190-9Hogan Jazz Archive 128-9holidays 220horse racing 144hotels 173House of Dance &
Feathers 85Hurricane Katrina 17,
197-8, 211
IInsectarium 26, 99, 3insurance 219internet access 219Irish Channel 115itineraries 18-19, 106, 117,
121, 161-72
JJackson Square 27, 52,
6-7, 52jambalaya 29, 80Jazz Fest 23, 74-81, 75,
77, 80food 81history 78
jazz music 39, 74-81, 196, 208
Joan of Arc Parade 22Jungle Gardens 168
Kkayaking 150KBON (Cajun Prairie) 171
LLafayette 167-70Lafayette Cemetery
No 1 114, 114Lafitte Greenway 13, 154Lake Martin (Breaux
Bridge) 168land loss 188, 198languages 14Laura Plantation
(Plantation Country) 162, 205
Laurel Valley Village Plantation (The Bayou) 164
Laveau, Marie 155, 202Le Musée de f.p.c. 155-6Lee Circle 100-1Lee, Robert E 189legal matters 219-20LeMieux Galleries 100lesbian travelers 42-3Levee Path 128levee system 211-12LGBT+ travelers 42-3literature 188, 212live music 7, 21, 37, 39,
6-7, 17Louis Armstrong Park 154Louisiana Children’s
Museum 99Louisiana Lost Land
Tours (The Bayou) 165Louisiana Purchase 200Lower 9th Ward 85Lower Bourbon Street 56Lower Garden 112-24, 112,
246-7accommodations 113,
184-5activities 124drinking 113, 120-2
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
226
IND
EX C-L
Lower Garden continuedentertainment 122food 113, 116-20highlights 112-13, 114nightlife 113, 120-2shopping 113, 122-4sights 114-16sports 124transport 113
Loyola University 128Lucky Rose 58
MMagazine Street 12, 40, 12Mardi Gras 9, 22, 27, 74-81,
157, 8, 75, 76-7, 79Markey Park 85Marsalis, Branford 208Marsalis, Ellis 208Marsalis, Wynton 208Mary Ann Brown
Preserve (St Francisville) 166
McIlhenny Tabasco Factory 168
McKenna Museum of African American Art 116
Metairie Cemetery 144Michalopoulos Gallery 58Mid-City 47, 139-50, 139,
252-3accommodations 186activities 150drinking 140, 148-9entertainment 149food 140, 145-8highlights 139-40, 141-2nightlife 140, 148-9shopping 149-50sights 141-5sports 150transport 140
Milton H Latter Memorial Library 128
minigolf 150Mississippi River 10, 27, 48,
59, 128Mississippi riverboats 64mobile phones 14money 14, 29, 174, 218, 220Moonwalk 59Morial, Ernest ‘Dutch’ 197Morial, Marc 197Mortuary Chapel 156motorcycle travel 216-17muffulettas 29Museum of Death 58, 59museums 21, see also
individual museums
music 154, 196, 208-10bounce 209classical music 38funk 208-9jazz 39, 208live music 7, 21, 37, 39,
91, 6-7, 17opera 38R&B 208-9rock 39, 210zydeco 39, 209
Musical Legends Park 59
NNagin, Ray 197National WWII Museum
97, 97Native Americans 157Neville, Aaron 209Neville, Art 209New Iberia 168New Orleans African
American Museum 156New Orleans Cotton
Exchange 100New Orleans Jazz Museum
at the Old US Mint 57New Orleans Jazz National
Historic Park 58New Orleans Museum of
Art 143New Orleans Pharmacy
Museum 56Newcomb Art Museum 128newspapers 219Ninth Ward Victory Arch
84-5
OOak Alley Plantation
(Plantation Country) 162-3
Oakley Plantation & Audu-bon State Historic Site (St Francisville) 166
Ogden Museum of Southern Art 98, 98
oil 196, 212Oliver, Joe ‘King’ 208Opelousas Museum &
Interpretive Center (Cajun Prairie) 171
opening hours 29, 220Our Lady of the Rosary
Rectory 144
PPalace Market 84parking 173, 216parks & gardens 21, see
also individual parks & gardens
Peristyle 143Pitot House 143planning 16-17
budgeting 14, 21, 29children, travel with 26-7itineraries 18-19New Orleans basics 14-15New Orleans’
neighborhoods 46-7packing 16repeat visitors 13travel seasons 15websites 14
plantations 162-3Plessy v Ferguson
Plaque 85po’boy 9, 25, 29, 31, 8police 219politics 188-9population 189, 200-2
demographics 191-2, 196-7
postal services 220Prairie Acadian Cultural
Center (Cajun Prairie) 170-1
Presbytère 53, 203Preservation Hall 68, 5, 37Preservation Resource
Center 101Press Street Gardens 84public holidays 220
Rrace issues 193-9radio 209, 219Red Dress Run 24, 24refunds 17Rig Museum (The
Bayou) 164Riverbend 125-38, 125,
248-9accommodations 126,
185-6drinking 126, 134-6entertainment 136food 126, 129-34highlights 125-6, 127nightlife 126, 134-6shopping 126, 136-8sights 127-9transport 126
Riverfront 59Rodrigue Studio 58Rosedown Plantation
Historic Site (St Francisville) 166
Royal Street 54, 17, 54Running of the Bulls 23
Ssafety 16, 220-1Sanctuary 144-5Scrap House 100Second Lines 10, 158, 10Shadows on the Teche 168shopping 12, 40-1, 12, see
also Shopping subindex, individual neighborhoods
shotgun houses 206, 206slavery 193-4
Code Noir 193smoking 219Soren Christensen
Gallery 101Southeastern Architectural
Archive 128Southern Decadence 24,
43, 24Southern Food & Beverage
Museum 115souvenirs 40Spanish influence 190-1spas 124sports, see Sports &
Activities subindex, individual neighborhoods
St Augustine’s Church 156St Charles
Avenue 110-11, 110-111St Charles Avenue
Streetcar 11, 110-11, 129, 11, 110-11
St Claude Shuffle 91St Francisville 165-7St Louis Cathedral 55, 55St Louis Cemetery No 1
153, 153St Louis Cemetery No
3 144St Vincent de Paul
Cemetery 84St Vincent’s Infant
Asylum 116Storyland 144streetcars 11, 110-11, 217,
11, 110-11Sydney & Walda Besthoff
Sculpture Garden 143
Ttaxes 17, 221taxi travel 215, 217telephone services 14, 221Tennessee Williams
Literary Festival 93The Historic New Orleans
Collection 56time 14, 221tipping 17, 33, 220
227IN
DEX L-T
toilets 221tourist information 14, 221Touro Synagogue 128Toussaint, Allen 208train travel 215travel to New Orleans 15travel within New Orleans
15, 215-17Tremé-Lafitte 47, 151-60,
151, 254-5accommodations 152,
186activities 160drinking 152, 159entertainment 159-60food 152, 156-9highlights 151-2, 153nightlife 152, 159shopping 160sights 153-6sports 160transport 152
Tulane University 129Tunica Falls (St
Francisville) 166TV 188
UUnited Fruit Company 102Upper Bourbon Street 56Uptown 47, 125-38, 125,
248-9accommodations 126,
185-6budget travel 133drinking 126, 134-6entertainment 136food 126, 129-34highlights 125-6, 127nightlife 126, 134-6shopping 126, 136-8sights 127-9transport 126
Ursuline Convent 56
Vvacations 220Vermilionville
(Lafayette) 167visas 14, 222volunteering 222voodoo 155, 160, 201-2, 210Voodoo Spiritual Temple 86
Wwalks
French Quarter 65, 65Garden 117, 121, 117, 121Warehouse District
106, 106Warehouse District 95-109,
95, 242-3accommodations 96activities 109drinking 96, 104-7entertainment 107-8food 96, 101-4highlights 95-6, 97, 98nightlife 96, 104-7shopping 96, 108-9sights 97-101sports 109transport 96walks 106, 106
Washington Square Park 85-6
weather 15websites 14, 174Wetlands Acadian Cultural
Center (The Bayou) 164White Linen Night 25Whitney Plantation
(Plantation Country) 162
Williams Research Center 59
Williams, Tennessee 23, 42, 93, 111
wine 33women travellers 222
YYats 201yoga 94
Zzoos 26, 127 zydeco 39
5 EATING13 Monaghan 881000 Figs 146-7
AAcme Oyster & Seafood
House 62Adolfo’s 88Al Aqaba (St Francisville)
166American Sector 104Angelo Brocato 146
Antoine’s 61Arnaud’s 60Avo 132
BBa Chi Canteen 129Bacchanal 88Balise 103Bao & Noodle 88Bayona 60Bearcat Cafe 130-1Bennachin 63Bevi Seafood Co. 147Big Fisherman
Seafood 118-19Billy’s Boudin & Cracklins
(Cajun Prairie) 171Birdman Coffee & Books
(St Francisville) 166Biscuits & Buns on Banks
146Bon Ton Café 104Boucherie 132Bourbon House 60Bourée 131-2Breads on Oak 131Brennan’s Restaurant 61Broussard’s 61Brown Butter 147Buttermilk Drop 156Bywater American Bistro
88Bywater Bakery 86
CCafé Adelaide 103Café Amelie 62Café Beignet 63Café Degas 147Café du Monde 63Café Mosaic (Cajun
Prairie) 171Café Reconcile 118Cajun Seafood 157Cake Café & Bakery 86Camellia Grill 131Canseco’s 146Carmo 101Casa Borrega 119Casamento’s 131Central City BBQ 119Central Grocery 63Clancy’s 133Clover Grill 63-4Cochon 102-3Cochon Butcher 101Commander’s Palace
119-20Company Burger 101-2
Compère Lapin 13, 104Coop’s Place 61Coquette 119Court of the Two Sisters 60Cowbell 132Crawfish House & Grill
(Cajun Prairie) 171Creole Creamery 130Crescent City Steaks 148Croissant D’Or Patisserie 63
DDante’s Kitchen 133Dat Dog 88, 130Deanie’s Seafood 62Delachaise 132-3Dickie Brennan’s
Steakhouse 61District 118Domenica 103Domilise’s Po-Boys 132Dooky Chase 159Drago’s Seafood
Restaurant 103Drip Affogato 101Dryades Public Market 116DTB 133-4Dwyer’s (Lafayette) 169
EEat New Orleans 61Elizabeth’s 88Emeril’s 104
FFiorella’s 62-3Fremin’s (The Bayou) 164-5French Press (Lafayette)
168-9
GGabrielle 158Galatoire’s 60Gautreau’s 134Gene’s 88Green Goddess 62Guy’s 131GW Fins 61
HHansen’s Sno-Bliz 131Herbsaint 103High Hat Cafe 130Horn’s 87
IIdeal Market 146Irene’s Cuisine 62
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
228
IND
EX EA
TIN
G
JJacques-Imo’s Café 132Johnny Sanchez 104Johnny’s Po-Boys 64Johnson’s Boucanière
(Lafayette) 169Joint 87Juan’s Flying Burrito 119Junction 87
KKatie’s 147Kebab 86K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen
61Kukhnya 87
LLa Boca 104La Petite Grocery 133LeJeune’s (The Bayou) 164Lil’ Dizzy’s 157Lilette 134Liuzza’s By The Track 145Lola’s 147Lost Love 87Luke 103
MMagnolia Café (St
Francisville) 166Mahony’s Po-Boy
Shop 132Mais Arepas 118Manchu 158Mandina’s 148Marjie’s Grill 13, 146Maypop 103-4Meauxbar 62Midway Pizza 133Mister Gregory’s 63Mona Lisa 63MoPho 147-8Morning Call 146Mosca’s (Plantation
Country) 163Mother’s 102Muriel’s 59, 60
NNamese 145-6Neyow’s 147Nola 62Nomiya 129-30Nonna Mia Café
& Pizzeria 146
PPagoda Cafe 157Parasol’s 118Parasol’s 116Parkway Tavern 145Patois 134Peche Seafood Grill 102Pho Cam Ly 130Pho Tau Bay 101Pizza Delicious 86Pizza Domenica 132Poche’s Cajun Restaurant
(Breaux Bridge) 169Poke-chan 86Poke Loa 116Poke Poke 13Port of Call 62Public Service 103
QQueenie’s 87
RRampart Food Store 86-7Red’s Chinese 86Refuel 131Restaurant August 104Rita Mae’s Kitchen (The
Bayou) 164Ruby Slipper 146Ruby Slipper
Downtown 102Ruby’s Restaurant (Cajun
Prairie) 171
SSake Café Uptown 119Satsuma 88Satsuma Maple 131Seaworthy 13, 102Seed 118Shank Charcuterie 87Slice 118Slim Goodie’s Diner 119Sneaky Pickle 86SoBou 60Social Southern Table
(Lafayette) 169Stanley 63Stein’s Deli 116St James Cheese Co 131St James Cheese
Company 101St Lawrence 62St Roch Market 87Sucré 118Surrey’s Juice Bar 116
Sylvain 61
TTee-Eva’s Old-Fashioned
Pies & Pralines 132The Francis Southern Table
& Bar (St Francisville) 167
Toups’ Meatery 147Tracey’s 118
VVerti Marte 64
WWayfare 129Wayne Jacob’s Smoke-
house & Restaurant (Plantation Country) 163
White Bowl (The Bayou) 164Who Dat Coffee Cafe &
Cafe Nero 87Willa Jean 103Willie Mae’s Scotch House
158
6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
AAlto 105Avenue Pub 120
BBalcony Bar 122Bar Tonique 64-5Barcadia 105Bar Redux 90Barrel Proof 120Bayou Beer Garden 149Bayou Wine Garden 149Big Daddy’s Bar 90BJ’s 89Black Penny 66Bouligny Tavern 134Bourbon Pub & Parade 68Bud Rip’s 89Buffa’s 89Bulldog 120
CCafé at Rouler 105Café Lafitte in Exile 67Cane & Table 66Carousel Bar 66CellarDoor 105
Chart Room 67Columns Hotel 135Cooter Brown’s Tavern &
Oyster Bar 135Cosimo’s 68Country Club 89-90Courtyard Brewery 120Cure 134, 32
DDeja Vu 67Double Play 67-8
EErin Rose 68
FFair Grinds 149F&M’s Patio Bar 136Faubourg Wines 90Finn McCool’s 148-9Foundry On The Bayou
Lounge (The Bayou) 165French 75 66Fulton Alley 107
HHalf Moon 122Handsome Willy’s 105Hivolt Coffee 120, 122
IIgor’s Lounge 122
JJ&J’s 89John 90
LLafitte’s Blacksmith Shop
67, 36Latitude 29 67Le Bon Temps Roulé 134Loa 107Lost Love 89Lucy’s Retired Surfers
Bar 107
MMarkey’s 90Mid-City Yacht Club 149Mimi’s in the Marigny 89Molly’s at the Market 66-7Monkey Hill Bar 135Ms Mae’s 135-6
229IN
DEX D
RIN
KIN
G &
NIG
HT
LIFE
Mudbug Brewery (The Bayou) 165
NNapoleon House 67NOLA Brewing 120
OOak Wine Bar 135Old Absinthe House 68Orange Couch 90Oz 68
PPal’s 148Parleaux Beer Lab 90Passions 13, 59, 66Pat O’Brien’s 67Patrick’s Bar Vin 66Pearl Wine Co 149Pirate’s Alley Cafe 68Piscobar 105Polo Club Lounge 107
RR Bar 90Rendezvous 122Rue de la Course 135Rusty Nail 105
SSaint Bar & Lounge 122Sazerac Bar 105, 107Second Line Brewing 148Sidebar 149Sidney’s Saloon 159Snake & Jakes 135Solo Espresso 89Spitfire Coffee 67St Joe’s 135Station 148Still Perkin’ 122Swizzle Stick Bar 105
TTiki Tolteca 66Toulouse Dive Bar 59Treo 148Tropical Isle 67Twelve Mile Limit 148
UUrban South 120
VVerret’s Lounge 120
WWine Institute of New
Orleans 105
3ENTERTAINMENTAllWays Lounge 90Apple Barrel 92Art Garage 92-3Artmosphere (Lafayette) 169Atchafalaya Club (Cajun
wetlands) 170Balcony Music Club 70Banks Street Bar 149Blue Moon Saloon
(Lafayette) 169Blue Nile 92Broad Theater 13, 159Bullets 159Café Istanbul 92Cafe Negril 91Candlelight Lounge 159-60Checkpoint Charlie 92Chickie Wah Wah 149Cinebarre Canal Place 9 108Circle Bar 107d.b.a. 91Dragon’s Den 92Entergy Giant Screen
Theater 108Fleur de Tease 69Fountain Lounge 108Fred’s Lounge (Cajun
Prairie) 171Fritzel’s European Jazz
Pub 68Gasa Gasa 136Harrah’s Casino 108Hi Ho Lounge 91House of Blues 69Howlin’ Wolf 107Joy Theater 107-8Kajun’s Pub 91Kermit’s Treme Mother in
Law Lounge 159La Poussiere (Breaux
Bridge) 170Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux
Carré 70Liberty Theater (Cajun
Prairie) 172
Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra 107
Lupin Theatre 136Mahalia Jackson Theater
159Maison 92Maple Leaf Bar 136Marigny Opera House 91Mercedes-Benz
Superdome 108Mudlark Theater 93New Movement Theater 92One Eyed Jacks 69Orpheum Theater 107Palm Court Jazz Café 70 Phoenix Bar 92Preservation Hall 68-9,
5, 37Prytania Theatre 136Randol’s (Lafayette) 169-70Republic New Orleans 108Rock ‘N’ Bowl 136Saenger Theatre 159Saturn Bar 92Savoy Music Center (Cajun
Prairie) 171Siberia 91Snug Harbor 91-2Spotted Cat 90-1Three Muses 92Tipitina’s 136Vaughan’s 92Zeitgeist 122
7 SHOPPING5 Press Gallery 94
AAidan Gill for Men 123Anton Haardt Gallery 123-4Arcadian Books & Art
Prints 73Ariodante 108Artisans’ Well 94
BBeckham’s Bookshop 72Berta’s & Mina’s
Antiquities 137Bloomin’ Deals 138Boutique du Vampyre 70Bywater Bargain Center 93
CC Collection 138Chiwawa Gaga 71
Cole Pratt Gallery 137Collectible Antiques 72-3Crescent City Comics 138
DDiaspora Boutique 123Dirty Coast 71, 138Disko Obscura 123Dr Bob’s Studio 93-4
EElectric Ladyland 94Esoterica Occult Goods 71Euclid Records 93
FF&F Botanica Spiritual
Supply 150Faubourg Marigny Book
Store 93Faulkner House Books 71Feet First 138Fifi Mahony’s 70Fleur de Paris 72Fleurty Girl 124Floyd’s Record Shop (Cajun
Prairie) 172French Library 13, 137French Quarter Postal
Emporium 71Freret Street Market 138Funky Monkey 123
GGarden District Bookshop
124GoGo Jewelry 123
HHazelnut 137-8Home Malone 150Hové Parfumeur 71Humidity Skate Shop 72
II.J. Reilly’s 93Island of Salvation
Botanica 94
JJames H Cohen & Sons 72Java House Imports 72
KKeife and Co 108Kitchen Witch 160
Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000
230
IND
EX EN
TE
RTA
INM
EN
T
LLA46 94Le Garage 73Leah’s Pralines 72Librairie Books 71Little Toy Shop 70Louisiana Music Factory 93Lucullus 71
MMagazine Antique Mall 124Maskarade 72Massey’s 150Meyer the Hatter 109Moss Antiques 72MS Rau Antiques 70
NNew Orleans Art Center 94New Orleans Art Supply 94
OOd Aomo 72Ogden Museum Store 108Outlet Collection at
Riverwalk 109
PPeaches Records
& Tapes 137Pelican Coast Clothing
Co 137Pied Nu 138Piety Street Market 93Potsalot 137
QQueork 71
RRev Zombie’s House of
Voodoo 71-2RHINO 123Rubber Library & Flower
Bodega 94
SSecondLine Art &
Antiques 70Shops at Canal Place 109Simon of New Orleans 123Stonefree 108
TTabasco Country Store 72Tchoup Industries 122-3Thomas Mann Gallery
I/O 123
Trashy Diva 71, 122Tubby & Coos 150
UUptown Costume &
Dancewear 138
YYvonne La Fleur 137
4 SLEEPING
AAce Hotel 183Alder Hotel 185Aloft New Orleans 182Ashton’s Bed & Breakfast
186Astor Crowne Plaza 180Atlas House 184Audubon Cottages 177-8Auld Sweet Olive Bed &
Breakfast 181
BBalcony Guest House 181B&W Courtyards 181Bienville House Hotel 176Bourbon Orleans Hotel 177Burgundy 180Bywater Bed & Breakfast
180
CCatahoula Hotel 13, 183Chateau Hotel 176Chimes 185City House Hostel New
Orleans 176Columns Hotel 185-6Cornstalk Hotel 179Creole Gardens 184Crescent City Guesthouse
180
DDauphine Orleans 179Drifter Hotel, The 186Degas House 186Drury Inn & Suites 182
EEmbassy Suites Hotel 182
FFairchild House 184Frenchmen Hotel 181
GGarden District B&B 184Gentry Quarters 176Green House Inn 184
HHenry Howard Hotel 185HH Whitney House 186Historic French Market
Inn 176Hotel Indigo 185Hotel Maison de Ville 180Hotel Modern 182Hotel Monteleone 179Hotel Provincial 177Hotel Royal 176Hotel St Marie 177Hotel Villa Convento 177
IIndia House Hostel 186Inn on St Peter 176-7Inn on Ursulines 179International House 183
LLa Belle Esplanade 186La Quinta Inn & Suites
Downtown 182Lafayette Hotel 182Lafitte Guest House 178-9Lamothe House 181Le Pavillon 182-3Le Richelieu 177Lions Inn B&B 180Loews New Orleans Hotel
183Loft 523 181-2Lookout Inn of New
Orleans 180
MMaison de Macarty 181Melrose Mansion 180-1Moxy Hotel New Orleans
182
NNine-O-Five Royal Hotel
176NOPSI Hotel 183
OOlivier House 177Omni Royal
Orleans 179
PParisian Courtyard 185Park View Historic Hotel
185Pierre Coulon Guest
House 181Prince Conti Hotel 177Prytania Park 184
QQueen Anne, The 185
RRitz-Carlton New Orleans
179Roosevelt New Orleans 183Royal Sonesta 180
SSaint 178Soniat House Hotel 178
TTerrell House 184
WW French Quarter 179Westin New Orleans at
Canal Place 179Windsor Court Hotel 183-4
2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES
American Bicycle Rental Co 73
American Photo Safari 73Belladonna Day Spa 124City Putt 150Confederacy of Cruisers 94Escape My Room New
Orleans 109Friends of the Cabildo 73Haunted History Tours 73Kayakitiyat 150Magic Tours 73New Orleans Boulder
Lounge 94New Orleans Culinary
History Tours 73New Orleans School of
Cooking 73Nola Gondola 150Royal Carriage Tours 73Save Our Cemeteries 124Tours By Judy 73Voodoo Bone Lady 160Wheel Fun Rentals 150Wild Lotus Yoga 94
231IN
DEX S
LEE
PIN
G
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
Airport
Border crossingBART station
Boston T stationBus
CyclingFerry
Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro/Muni station
Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/Shelter
Beach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin
Sento Hot Baths/Onsen
ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour
SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Gate
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
New Orleans Maps
232 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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ErFAUBOURG MARIGNY & BYWATER Map on p238
æ Sights (p84) 29 Lost Love .....................................................C4 1 Art Garden ................................................... G1 30 Pizza Delicious.............................................F5 2 Clouet Gardens ...........................................E5 31 Poke-chan ...................................................D4 3 Crescent Park..............................................F6 32 Queenie's..................................................... F4 4 Frenchmen Street.......................................G2 33 Rampart Food Store .................................. A4 5 Healing Center ............................................C4 34 Red's Chinese ............................................. E4 6 Markey Park ................................................ F5 35 Satsuma .......................................................F5 7 Ninth Ward Victory Arch............................G5 36 Shank Charcuterie .....................................C4 8 Palace Market ............................................. G1 37 Sneaky Pickle..............................................H4 9 Plessy v Ferguson Plaque..........................D5 38 St Roch Market...........................................C4 10 Press Street Gardens.................................D5 39 Who Dat Coffee Cafe & Cafe Nero...........C4 11 St Vincent de Paul Cemetery.................... F3
12 Voodoo Spiritual Temple...........................A4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p88) 13 Washington Square Park...........................B5 40 Bar Redux....................................................H6 41 Big Daddy's Bar .......................................... C5 ú Eating (p86) 42 BJ's...............................................................H5 14 13 Monaghan .............................................. H3 43 Bud Rip's.......................................................F5 15 Adolfo's ........................................................ G1 44 Buffa's.......................................................... A5 16 Bacchanal ................................................... H6 45 Country Club............................................... E5 17 Bao & Noodle...............................................D5 46 Faubourg Wines..........................................D4 18 Bywater American Bistro ..........................D5 47 J&J's.............................................................H5 19 Bywater Bakery........................................... F5 48 John..............................................................B4 20 Cake Café & Bakery....................................C5 Lost Love ........................................... (see 29) 21 Dat Dog ........................................................G2 49 Markey's ...................................................... E5 22 Elizabeth's....................................................F6 50 Mimi's in the Marigny................................. D5 23 Gene's...........................................................B4 51 Orange Couch............................................. C5 24 Horn's ...........................................................B5 52 Parleaux Beer Lab......................................H6 25 Joint ............................................................. G6 53 R Bar............................................................. A5 26 Junction .......................................................E4
27 Kebab ...........................................................C4 ý Entertainment (p90) 28 Kukhnya .......................................................B4 54 AllWays Lounge ..........................................B4
240
fAuBOurG M
ArIGNY & BYW
AtEr 55 Apple Barrel.................................................G2 79 Faubourg Marigny Book Store .................G2 56 Art Garage ...................................................B4 80 I.J. Reilly's .....................................................H1 57 Blue Nile .......................................................G3 Island of Salvation Botanica ..............(see 5) Café Istanbul ....................................... (see 5) 81 LA46.............................................................B4 58 Cafe Negril ...................................................G2 82 Louisiana Music Factory ...........................H3 59 Checkpoint Charlie .....................................G3 83 New Orleans Art Center ............................ F4 60 d.b.a..............................................................G2 84 New Orleans Art Supply ............................ E4 61 Dragon's Den.............................................. H4 85 Piety Street Market.....................................F5 62 Hi Ho Lounge...............................................C4 86 Rubber Library & Flower Bodega..............F5 63 Kajun's Pub..................................................C4
64 Maison..........................................................G3 Ø Sports & Activities (p94) 65 Marigny Opera House ................................D4 87 Confederacy of Cruisers ............................H1 66 Mudlark Theater .........................................D3 88 New Orleans Boulder Lounge...................C4 67 New Movement Wild Lotus Yoga...................................(see 5) Theater......................................................D4
68 Phoenix Bar .................................................B4 ÿ Sleeping (p180) 69 Saturn Bar....................................................E4 89 Auld Sweet Olive Bed & Siberia ................................................(see 28) Breakfast ..................................................C4 70 Snug Harbor ................................................ G1 90 B&W Courtyards ........................................ C5 71 Spotted Cat ................................................. G1 91 Balcony Guest House ................................C5 72 Three Muses................................................G2 92 Burgundy.....................................................C4 73 Vaughan's ................................................... H6 93 Bywater Bed & Breakfast.......................... E4 94 Crescent City Guesthouse........................ B5 þ Shopping (p93) 95 Dauphine House......................................... A5 74 5 Press Gallery ............................................D5 96 Frenchmen Hotel........................................H3 Artisans' Well....................................... (see 5) 97 Lamothe House .......................................... B5 75 Bywater Bargain 98 Lions Inn B&B ............................................. C5 Center........................................................E5 99 Lookout Inn of New Orleans .....................H5 76 Dr Bob's Studio...........................................E5 100 Maison de Macarty..................................... G5 77 Electric Ladyland ........................................ G1 101 Melrose Mansion........................................ A5 78 Euclid Records ............................................F6 102 Pierre Coulon Guest House ...................... C5
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CENTRALCITY
TulaneAve
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Sugar Bowl Dr
Cleveland St
La S
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St C
harle
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Baron
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Union St
LafayetteSt
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PerdidoSt
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Common St
Car
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Martin Luther King Jr Blvd
Poydras Ave
Howard Ave
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Loyo
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ElkPl
Roosevelt Way
S Rober
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UnionPassengerTerminal
Carondelet St/Julia St St Charles Ave/
Julia St
Carondelet St/Poydras St
Julia St
Poydras St
Canal St/Rampart St
St Charles Ave/Lee Circle
UnionPassengerTerminal
Ogden Museumof Southern Art
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WAREHOUSEDISTRICT
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Exch
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Port of New
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æ Top Sights (p97) 32 Johnny Sanchez............ C3 Louisiana 1 National WWII Museum E6 33 La Boca........................... F6 Philharmonic 2 Ogden Museum of 34 Luke ................................ E3 Orchestra.......... (see 60) Southern Art............... D6 35 Maypop ..........................C4 59 Mercedes-Benz 36 Mother's ......................... F4 Superdome................. A3 æ Sights (p99) 37 Peche Seafood Grill ...... E5 60 Orpheum Theater ......... D2 3 Aquarium of the 38 Pho Tau Bay....................B1 61 Republic New Orleans.. F6 Americas.....................G3 Public Service.......(see 81)
4 Arthur Roger Gallery .....E5 39 Restaurant August.........F3 þ Shopping (p108) 5 Confederate Memorial 40 Ruby Slipper – 62 Ariodante ....................... E5 Hall Museum............... D6 Downtown....................F3 63 Keife and Co ..................D6 6 Contemporary Arts 41 Seaworthy......................D4 64 Meyer the Hatter........... E2 Center.......................... E6 42 St James Cheese Ogden Museum 7 Gallier Hall......................D4 Company......................F5 Store .....................(see 2) 8 George Schmidt 43 Willa Jean .......................C4 65 Outlet Collection at Gallery ......................... D5 Riverwalk.....................H5 9 Insectarium.....................F3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p104) Shops at Canal 10 Lee Circle .......................D6 44 Alto..................................D4 Place .................. (see 53) 11 LeMieux Galleries...........F6 45 Barcadia ......................... F4 66 Stonefree .......................C4 12 Louisiana Children's 46 Café at Rouler................D4
Museum .......................F6 47 CellarDoor......................C4 Ø Sports & Activities (p109) 13 New Orleans Cotton 48 Fulton Alley ....................G5 67 Creole Queen.................H4 Exchange .................... D3 49 Handsome Willy's ..........B1 68 Escape My Room New 14 Preservation Resource Loa .........................(see 75) Orleans ........................ E4 Center...........................F6 50 Lucy's Retired
15 Scrap House.................. G7 Surfers Bar ..................F5 ÿ Sleeping (p181) 16 Soren Christensen Piscobar ................ (see 71) 69 Ace Hotel........................D4 Gallery ..........................F6 Polo Club Lounge (see 83) 70 Aloft New Orleans......... D2 17 United Fruit Company.. E3 51 Rusty Nail........................E7 71 Catahoula Hotel ............ D3 Sazerac Bar ......... (see 82) 72 Drury Inn & Suites.........D4 ú Eating (p101) Swizzle Stick Bar..(see 21) 73 Embassy Suites Hotel ...F5 18 American Sector........... E6 52 Wine Institute of New 74 Hotel Modern.................D6 19 Balise ..............................D4 Orleans (WINO)...........F5 75 International House...... E3 20 Bon Ton Café................. E4 76 La Quinta Inn & 21 Café Adelaide .................F4 ý Entertainment (p107) Suites Downtown....... E3 22 Carmo..............................E5 53 Cinebarre Canal 77 Lafayette Hotel..............D4 23 Cochon ............................F7 Place 9..........................F3 78 Le Pavillon......................D3 24 Cochon Butcher.............F7 54 Circle Bar ....................... D7 Loews New 25 Company Burger .......... C4 55 Entergy Giant Screen Orleans Hotel.....(see 21) 26 Compère Lapin...............F4 Theater........................G3 79 Loft 523.......................... E3 27 Domenica....................... D2 Fountain Lounge . (see 27) 80 Moxy Hotel New 28 Drago's Seafood 56 Harrah's Casino............. F4 Orleans ........................D2 Restaurant ..................G4 57 Howlin' Wolf................... F6 81 NOPSI Hotel...................D3 29 Drip Affogato ................. D5 58 Joy Theater.....................C1 82 Roosevelt New 30 Emeril's............................F6 Orleans ........................D2 31 Herbsaint ....................... D5 83 Windsor Court Hotel..... F4
244
GArDEN, LOW
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Orleans Parish
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RIVERBEND
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Audubon ParkGolf Course
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Cohn St
Lower
line
St
Audub
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t
Cherokee St
Sycamore St
Leon
tine
St
Jolie
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S Robertson St
Burthe St
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nut S
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erAv
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Cambro
nne St
Zimple St
Riverview
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St
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nore
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t
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bella
St
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ry C
lay
Ave
Hickory St
Oak St
Pine
St
Magnolia St
Short St
Benjamin St
Milla
udon St
Green St
Burdette
St
Hurst St
Benjamin St
Adams S
t
Newco
mb B
lvd
Dante S
t
Laure l St
Clara St
Neron St
Pitt St
Plum St
Dominican StAud
ubon
St
Pearl St
Garfield St
Chestnut St
Cal
houn
St
Lower
line
St
Annunciation St
Hurst St
Spruce St
Pitt St
Jeffe
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Pine
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Expo
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way S
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Prytania St
Hillary
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Coliseum St
Belle
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Camp St
Jose
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Monro
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Patton St
Eleo
nore
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Ara
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Maple St
Garfield St
MississippiR
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Leonidas St
Constance St
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Eagle St
Leake Ave
Leake Ave
Freret St
Audu
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St Charles Avenue Streetcar
St Charles Ave/Calhoun St
St Charles Ave/Broadway St
St Charles Ave/Tulane University
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GARDENDISTRICT
UPTOWN
CENTRALCITY
Mississippi River
LafayetteCemetery No 1
LafayetteCemetery
No 2
Magazine St
S Robertson St
Chestnut St
Toledano St
SecondSt
Constantinople St
SecondSt
Eighth St
Dufo
ssat
St
Tchoupitoulas St
PhilipSt
Harm
ony StSeventh St
Prytania St
Delachaise St
Valence St
Peniston St
Marengo S
t
Upp
erlin
e S
t
Am
elia St
Son
iat S
t
First St
Constance St
Perrier St
ThirdSt
Rocheblave St
Milan S
t
Magnolia St
Carondelet St
Annunciation St
Jackson Ave
S LibertySt
Rampa
rtSt
Felicity St SSa
rato
gaSt
St AndrewSt
Jena St
Jena St SGay
oso
St
FourthSt
Tonti St
Eden St
Perdido St
SSa
lced
oSt
Miro St
Constance St
Thalia St
Johnson St
Prieur St
Bordeaux
St
SLo
pez St
Aline St
Erato St
Coliseum St
FourthSt
Rob
ert S
t
Prytania St
Cadiz S
t
Laurel St
Clara St
Roman St
Gen P
ershing St
Camp St
Annunciation St
LasalleSt
Carondelet St
Loyola St
La Salle St
Foucher St
Napoleon A
ve
Cadiz S
t
Napoleon A
veLyon
s S
t
Rob
ert S
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Jeff
erso
n Av
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Lyons St
JenaSt
Gen Taylor St
Pitt St
Delachaise St
Antonine St
S Derbigny St
S Dup
re S
t
S Broad St
Galvez St
Freret St
Austerlitz St
Dryades St
Sim on Bolivar St
Martin Luther King Jr Blvd
Napoleon
Ave
Louisiana Ave
LouisianaAve
Toledano St
Earhart Blvd
S Cla
ibor
ne A
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Laurel St
ThirdSt
Washington
Ave
PenistonSt
Gen Taylor St
Am
elia StFoucher St
Danneel St
S Liberty St
Valence St
Cadiz S
tJena S
tMagnolia St
Oct
avia
St
Nash
ville
Ave
Gen
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Gen
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Freret St
S Claiborne Ave
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Danneel St
Dryades St
Baronne St
Carondelet St
ToledanoSt
Harm
ony StSeventh St
SixthSt
Johnson St
Fontainebleau Dr
S Robertson St
St Charles Ave
Tchoupitoulas St
S Derbigny St
S Galvez St
S Prieur S
t
S Saratoga St
S Saratoga St
S Bro
ad S
t
St Charles Ave/Washington Ave
St Charles Ave/Louisiana Ave
St Charles Ave/Napoleon Ave
47
49
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UPTOWN & RIVERBEND Map on p248
æ Top Sights (p127) 42 St James Cheese Co.................................. E6 1 Audubon Zoo...............................................B6 43 Tee-Eva's Old-Fashioned Pies & Pralines ..................................................... E6 æ Sights (p128) Wayfare............................................... (see 31) 2 Alex Beard Studio ...................................... G6 44 Whole Foods ...............................................D6 3 Amistad Research Center .........................C4
4 Audubon Park..............................................B5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p134) 5 Fly..................................................................A6 Bouligny Tavern................................ (see 34) 6 Hogan Jazz Archive ....................................C3 45 Columns Hotel ............................................ G5 7 Levee Path ...................................................A2 46 Cooter Brown's Tavern & Oyster Bar...... A3 8 Loyola University ........................................C4 47 Cure.............................................................. E4 9 Newcomb Art Museum ..............................C3 48 F&M's Patio Bar...........................................E7 Southeastern Architectural 49 Le Bon Temps Roulé.................................. E6 Archives ............................................ (see 6) 50 Monkey Hill Bar...........................................C6 10 Touro Synagogue ....................................... F5 Ms Mae's.............................................(see 18) 11 Tulane University........................................C3 51 Oak Wine Bar .............................................. B2 52 Rue de la Course......................................... B2 ú Eating (p129) 53 Snake & Jakes............................................. B2 12 Avo ................................................................C6 54 St Joe's ........................................................D6 13 Ba Chi Canteen ...........................................B3
14 Bearcat Cafe................................................E4 ý Entertainment (p136) 15 Boucherie.....................................................B2 55 Gasa Gasa ................................................... E4 Bourée.................................................(see 15) 56 Lupin Theatre..............................................C4 16 Breads on Oak............................................. A1 57 Maple Leaf Bar............................................ B2 17 Camellia Grill ...............................................A3 58 Prytania Theatre......................................... D5 18 Casamento's ............................................... F6 59 Tipitina's .......................................................F7 19 Clancy's........................................................C7
20 Company Burger ........................................E4 þ Shopping (p136) 21 Cowbell......................................................... A1 60 Berta's & Mina's Antiquities...................... F6 22 Creole Creamery.........................................E6 61 Bloomin' Deals............................................ E4 23 Dante's Kitchen...........................................A2 62 C Collection................................................. A2 24 Dat Dog ........................................................E4 Cole Pratt Gallery ............................. (see 38) 25 Delachaise ...................................................G5 63 Crescent City Comics................................ E4 26 Domilise's Po-Boys.....................................D7 64 Dirty Coast ..................................................D6 27 DTB ...............................................................B2 65 Feet First...................................................... F6 28 Gautreau's ................................................... E5 66 French Library ............................................G6 29 Guy's.............................................................D6 67 Freret Street Market .................................. F4 30 Hansen's Sno-Bliz....................................... E7 68 Hazelnut ......................................................D6 31 High Hat Cafe ..............................................E4 Peaches Records & Tapes ...............(see 18) 32 Jacques-Imo's Café....................................B2 Pelican Coast Clothing Co............... (see 68) 33 La Petite Grocery........................................ F6 Pied Nu............................................... (see 68) 34 Lilette........................................................... G6 69 Potsalot........................................................G6 35 Mahony's Po-Boy Shop............................. G6 Uptown Costume & Dancewear......(see 18) 36 Midway Pizza...............................................E4 70 Yvonne La Fleur .......................................... A2 Nomiya ...............................................(see 33)
37 Patois............................................................C6 ÿ Sleeping (p185) 38 Pho Cam Ly ................................................ G6 71 Alder Hotel .................................................. E3 39 Pizza Domenica ..........................................E6 72 Chimes......................................................... F6 40 Refuel ...........................................................A2 Columns Hotel .................................. (see 45) 41 Satsuma Maple ...........................................B3 73 Park View Historic Hotel............................ B4
250
MID
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æ Top Sights (p141) 34 Namese........................................................C6 1 City Park....................................................... F2 35 Neyow's ........................................................F5 Nonna Mia Café & Pizzeria.............. (see 23) æ Sights (p143) 36 Parkway Tavern.......................................... F4 2 Alcee Fortier Park.......................................G3 37 Ruby Slipper.................................................F7 3 Bayou St John ............................................. F2 38 Toups' Meatery........................................... E3 4 Botanical Gardens.......................................E1
5 Carousel Gardens Amusement Park ....... D1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p148) 6 Esplanade Avenue ......................................G3 39 Bayou Beer Garden.....................................F5 7 Fair Grounds Race Course ....................... H2 40 Bayou Wine Garden ....................................F5 8 Metairie Cemetery......................................A2 41 Fair Grinds...................................................G3 9 New Orleans Museum of Art......................E1 42 Finn McCool's ............................................. D5 10 Our Lady of the Rosary Rectory ...............G2 43 Mid-City Yacht Club ................................... B4 11 Peristyle .......................................................E2 44 Pal's..............................................................G4 12 Pitot House.................................................. F2 45 Pearl Wine Co.............................................. E4 13 Sanctuary .................................................... F3 46 Second Line Brewing................................. C2 14 Singing Oak...................................................F1 47 Sidebar..........................................................E7 15 St Louis Cemetery No 3............................. G1 48 Station .........................................................C3 16 Storyland ..................................................... D1 49 Treo ..............................................................C6 17 Sydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture 50 Twelve Mile Limit........................................D6 Garden........................................................E1
ý Entertainment (p149) ú Eating (p145) 51 Banks Street Bar........................................C4 18 1000 Figs .....................................................G3 52 Chickie Wah Wah........................................ F6 19 Angelo Brocato ...........................................D4
20 Bevi Seafood Co..........................................D4 þ Shopping (p149) 21 Biscuits & Buns on Banks..........................C4 53 F&F Botanica Spiritual Supply..................H5 22 Brown Butter...............................................D4 54 Home Malone.............................................. E3 23 Café Degas...................................................G3 55 Massey's......................................................D3 24 Canseco's ....................................................G3 56 Tubby & Coos .............................................D3 25 Crescent City Steaks................................. H4
26 Ideal Market................................................. F7 Ø Sports & Activities (p150) 27 Katie's...........................................................E5 57 City Putt........................................................D1 28 Liuzza's By The Track ............................... H3 58 Nola Gondola ............................................... F1 29 Lola's ............................................................G3 59 Wheel Fun Rentals....................................... F1 30 Mandina's.....................................................D5
31 Marjie's Grill................................................. F7 ÿ Sleeping (p186) 32 MoPho ..........................................................C2 60 India House Hostel..................................... F6 33 Morning Call .................................................E1 61 The Drifter Hotel.........................................D6
251
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Toulouse StLafitte Ave
Baudin St
Cleveland St
D'Hemecourt St
Banks St
Ulloa St
Tulane Ave
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Canal St
Orleans Ave
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D ixon St
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N Dor
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N Car
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City Park Ave
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Toulouse St
Dumaine StN S
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æ Top Sights (p153) 1 St Louis Cemetery No 1 ...............................D7
æ Sights (p154) 2 Backstreet Cultural Museum...................... E6 3 Congo Square ............................................... E7 4 Lafitte Greenway...........................................C6 5 Le Musée de f.p.c..........................................C3 6 Louis Armstrong Park.................................. E6 7 Louis Armstrong Statue .............................. E6 8 Mortuary Chapel........................................... D7 9 New Orleans African American Museum.. E5 10 St Augustine's Church ................................. E5
ú Eating (p156) 11 Buttermilk Drops ...........................................D1 12 Cajun Seafood............................................... E4 13 Dooky Chase ................................................. B5 14 Gabrielle .........................................................B4 15 Lil' Dizzy's ...................................................... E4 16 Manchu .......................................................... E4 17 Pagoda Cafe ..................................................C3 18 Willie Mae's Scotch House ..........................B4
û Drinking & Nightlife (p159) 19 Sidney's Saloon..............................................F5
ý Entertainment (p159) 20 Broad Theater ...............................................A4 21 Candlelight Lounge....................................... D5 22 Kermit's Treme Mother in Law Lounge..... E4 23 Mahalia Jackson Theater.............................D6
þ Shopping (p160) 24 Kitchen Witch................................................C2
Ø Sports & Activities (p160) 25 The Voodoo Bone Lady................................D7
ÿ Sleeping (p186) 26 Ashton's Bed & Breakfast ...........................D3 27 Degas House .................................................C3 28 HH Whitney House .......................................D4 29 La Belle Esplanade........................................C3
255
Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541538th edition – Nov 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 179 3© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
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Our WritersAdam KarlinFaubourg Marigny & Bywater; CBD & Warehouse District; Garden, Lower Garden & Central City; Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park; Tremé-Lafitte Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, archeology and
the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!), and his essays and articles have featured in the BBC, NPR and multiple non-fiction anthologies. He is based out of New Orleans, which helps explain his love of wetlands, food and good music. Learn more at http://walkonfine.com or follow on Instagram @adamwalkonfine. Adam also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand New Orleans and Survival Guide sections.
Ray BartlettFrench Quarter, Uptown & Riverbend, Day Trips from New Orleans Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top publish-ers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other
pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram or contact him via www.kaisora.com, his website. Ray currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
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