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All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over. So go! TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET New Orleans Adam Karlin, Ray Bartlett ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 1: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

Plan Your Trip 12

“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.

So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET

New Orleans

Adam Karlin, Ray Bartlett

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 2: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

ContentsContents

Welcome to New Orleans �������������������� 4

New Orleans’ Top 10 ������ 6

What’s New ��������������������13

Need to Know ����������������14

First Time New Orleans ������������������ 16

Top Itineraries ��������������� 18

If You Like��� ��������������������20

Month By Month ������������22

With Kids ������������������������26

Eating ����������������������������28Drinking & Nightlife����32Entertainment ������������ 37Shopping ���������������������� 40LGBT+ New Orleans ����������������42

Plan Your Trip page 1

Understand New Orleans 187

Survival Guide 213

New Orleans Maps 232

Plan Your Trip 4

Explore New Orleans 44

Transportation ������������ 214

Directory A–Z ��������������218

Glossary �����������������������223

Index �����������������������������225

New Orleans Today ���������������������������� 188

History ��������������������������190

People of New Orleans ��������������� 200

Architecture ����������������203

Music ���������������������������208

Environment �����������������211

French Quarter ��������������48

Mardi Gras & Jazz Fest ��������������������� 74

Faubourg Marigny & Bywater ����������������������82

CBD & Warehouse District ����������������������������95

St Charles Avenue Streetcar ������������������������110

Garden, Lower Garden & Central City ��������������� 112

Uptown & Riverbend ��� 125

Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park ����� 139

Tremé-Lafitte ��������������� 151

Day Trips from New Orleans ������������������������161

Sleeping ���������������������� 173

Page 3: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

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Page 4: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

Top ItinerariesDay OneFrench Quarter (p48)

M Wake up and smell the coffee (and enjoy a croissant) at Croissant D’Or

Patisserie (p63). Afterwards, take a stroll around the streets as they wake up (or shake off last night), and then sign up for the Friends of the Cabildo walking tour (p73), our favorite introduction to the architectural wonders of the French Quarter.

French Quarter (p48)

R Wander through Jackson Square (p52), the green heart of the neigh-

borhood, and explore the Quarter’s muse-ums, such as the Cabildo (p50) and Pres-bytère (p53), where you can learn more about the history of New Orleans and Louisiana. Afterwards, enjoy a free after-noon concert at the Old US Mint (p57).

French Quarter (p48)

N Relax with a drink at Bar Tonique (p64) or French 75 (p66), two of the

finest cocktail bars in a city that invented the cocktail. Take in a show at Preservation Hall (p68) or One Eyed Jacks (p69), and when the music is over, have a 3am breakfast at the Clover Grill (p63).

Day TwoCBD & Warehouse District (p95)

M Spend a morning visiting the Ogden Museum of Southern Art (p98). Once

you’ve immersed yourself in the aesthetics of the region, consider immersing yourself in the contemporary art scene at the appro-priately dubbed Contemporary Arts Center (p99), and maybe catch a gallery on Julia St while you’re at it.

Garden, Lower Garden & Central City (p112)

R Stroll along pretty Magazine St in a state of shopping nirvana. Then

walk north, pop into Lafayette Cemetery No 1 (p114) and hop onto the St Charles Avenue Streetcar (p129), heading west toward Audu-bon Park (p128). Along the way, you’ll soak up the lovely architecture and the shade of live oak trees that runs along all of St Charles Ave. Afterwards, continue along in the streetcar towards the Riverbend.

Uptown & Riverbend (p125)

N Have a boozy night perusing the ex-cellent beer menu at Cooter Brown’s

Tavern & Oyster Bar (p135) and consider having an oyster or ten on the side. Then fin-ish it off by heading to the Maple Leaf Bar (p136) or Tipitina’s (p136) and rocking out to whoever is playing.

Dinner Modern Louisianan at Bayona (p60), base of local hero Susan Spicer.

Lunch Mister Gregory’s (p63): French baguettes with truly innovative fillings.

Dinner Creative Vietnamese at Ba Chi Canteen (p129).

Lunch Cochon Butcher (p101) for artisan meats with a Cajun twist.

18 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 5: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

Day ThreeFaubourg Marigny & Bywater (p82)

M Get the day going with oysters and grits at Cake Café & Bakery (p86).

Eat early so you can join the morning Creole Neighborhoods cycle tour with Confederacy of Cruisers (p94). If you don’t fancy traveling on two wheels, walk past Washington Square Park (p85) and Elysian Fields Ave into the residential portion of the Marigny and just lose yourself amidst all of the candy-colored houses.

Faubourg Marigny & Bywater (p82)

R Walk east (or ‘down’ in New Orleans directional-speak) along

Royal or Congress Sts and check out the riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By-water; look for Dr Bob’s Studio (p93). Then take a walk into the Crescent Park (p84), where you can enjoy great views of the Mississippi.

Faubourg Marigny & Bywater (p82)

N Head back into Faubourg Marigny to listen to live music on St Claude

Ave or on Frenchmen Street (p84).

Lunch Lost Love (p87) dive bar has a surprise Vietnamese kitchen.

Dinner Bacchanal (p88) for wine and cheese in a musical garden.

Day FourTremé-Lafitte (p151)

M Consider renting a bicycle and rid-ing around the Tremé; Governor

Nicholls St is particularly attractive. Driv-ing is also an option. While in the neigh-borhood, don’t miss the Backstreet Cultur-al Museum (p154); from here, it’s an easy walk into Louis Armstrong Park. (p154)

Tremé-Lafitte (p151)

R Head up Esplanade Avenue (p143) and gawk at all the gorgeous Creole

mansions sitting prettily under live oaks. Take Esplanade Ave all the way to City Park (p141) and wander around the New Orleans Museum of Art (p143). Afterwards, you can relax for a spell under the trees or along the banks of bucolic Bayou St John.

Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park (p139)

N Have a well-mixed drink at friendly Twelve Mile Limit (p148); it also

serves barbecue, in case you feel peckish again. Now that the night is ending, con-sider catching some more live music (this is New Orleans, folks) at a favorite venue you’ve discovered during your trip.

Lunch Willie Mae’s Scotch House (p158) Get the fried chicken. Just do it.

Dinner Café Degas (p147) for fabu-lously romantic French fine dining.

19PLAN

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Page 6: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travelers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-traveled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions.

Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy.

Behind the Scenes

WRITER THANKSAdam KarlinThanks to Trisha Ping, for putting me on this assignment this time around, and to Jennye Garibaldi for putting me on it the first time. Thanks also to the ever-expanding NOLA family: Dan; Bobby; Dorothy; Trish; Jonah, Mel and Lincoln; Molly, Travis and Sylvie; AJ, Halle, Hugo and Sadie; Adrian, Darcy and Seb; Mike, Nora, David and Dash; and all the crew at UNO. My thanks to Mom and Dad for everything. Finally, thanks to Rachel and Sanda for being the greatest exploration team ever assembled, and to ‘Gus’, an oncoming explorer in his own right.

Ray BartlettThanks first and always to my family for making this possible, and for putting up with me. Thanks to Trisha Ping, my awesome editor, and to my fine coauthor Adam Karlin. Hugs to everyone who showed me around their amazing city: Gimena and Miles; Lindsey and Nick; Barrett, Shemsi, Ilana, Nancy, Henny, Angel and Lexi, to name just a few. And a shout out to all the other incredible NOLA denizens who made researching this such an awe-some voyage. I can’t wait to come back.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSCover photograph: Canal Streetcar, French Quarter, Jason Langley/Alamy ©

THIS BOOKThis 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s New Orleans guide-book was researched and written by Adam Karlin and Ray Bartlett, and curated by Adam. The previous two editions were written by Amy C Balfour and Adam. This guidebook was produced by the following:

Destination Editor Trisha PingSenior Product Editor Vicky SmithProduct Editor Ronan AbayawickremaSenior Cartographer Alison LyallCartographer James LevershaBook Designer Gwen Cotter

Assisting Editors James Bainbridge, Jacqueline Danam, Melanie Dankel, Carly Hall, Alexander KnightsCover Researcher Naomi ParkerThanks to Victoria Harrison, Lesya Hrycenko, Aslihan Karatas, Kate Kiely, Jessica Ryan, Angela Tinson, Sam Wheeler

224 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Page 7: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

Index1850 House Museum 57

AA Streetcar Named

Desire 111Acadian Cultural Center

(Lafayette) 168Acadian people 202Acadian Village

(Lafayette) 167-8Acadiana 191accents 201accessible travel 218accommodations 15,

173-86, see also Sleep-ing subindex, individual neighborhoods

parking 173activities, see Sports &

Activities subindex, individual neighborhoods

A Gallery for Fine Photography 58

air travel 214-15Alcee Fortier Park 144Alex Beard Studio 128ambulance 219Amistad Research Center 129Annie Miller’s Son’s Swamp

& Marsh Tours (The Bayou) 165

antiques 40Aquarium of the Americas

26, 99architecture 203-7, 7, 20,

7, 20, 45, 203, 205, 206, see also individual neighborhoods

area codes 221Art Garden 84Arthur Roger Gallery 100arts 21, 37, 40Ashé Cultural Arts Center 115

ATMs 220Audubon Institute 100Audubon Louisiana Nature

Center 13Audubon Park 128Audubon Zoo 26, 127, 127

BBackstreet Cultural

Museum 154, 158ballet 38B&Bs 173Barataria Preserve (The

Bayou) 27, 163-4Barmuda Triangle 89basketball 108bathrooms 221bayous 145, 163-5Bayou St John

(neighborhood) 47, 139-50, 139, 252-3, 12

activities 150drinking 140, 148-9entertainment 149food 140, 145-8highlights 139-42nightlife 140, 148-9shopping 149-50sights 141-5sports & activities 150transport 140

Bayou St John 12, 143, 12Bayou, The (area) 163-5Bayou Woman

Adventures (The Bayou) 165

Bearcat Cafe 130-1Beauregard, PGT 189Beauregard-Keyes House 57beer 33beignets 30Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras

World 115boat travel 216boating 150Bolden, Charles ‘Buddy’ 208Bonaparte, Napoleon 192

Botanical Gardens 144Breaux Bridge 167-70bus travel 215, 216business hours 29butterflies 26, 99, 3Butler, Benjamin 195Byrd, Henry Roeland 208Bywater 47, 82-94, 82,

238-9accommodations 83, 180-1activities 94drinking 83, 88-90entertainment 90-3food 83, 86-8highlights 82-3nightlife 83, 88-90shopping 93-4sights 84-6sports 94transport 83

CCabildo 50-1, 50Cajun Country Swamp Tours

(Breaux Bridge) 169Cajun Man’s Swamp Tours

& Adventures (The Bayou) 165

Cajun Music Hall of Fame & Museum (Cajun Prairie) 171

Cajun people 202Cajun Prairie 170-2Cajun wetlands 167-8canoeing 150car rental 216-17car travel 216-17Carnival 22, 193Carousel Gardens

Amusement Park 143-4casket girls 69CBD 47, 95-109, 95, 242-3

accommodations 96, 181-4

activities 109drinking 96, 104-7

entertainment 107-8food 96, 101-4highlights 95-6, 97, 98landmarks 102nightlife 96, 104-5, 107shopping 96, 108-9sights 97-101sports 109transport 96

Celebration in the Oaks 142cell phones 14cemeteries 156cemetery tours 156Central City 112-24, 112,

246-7accommodations 113,

184-5activities 124drinking 113, 120-2entertainment 122food 113, 116-20highlights 112-13, 114shopping 113, 122-4sights 114-16sports 124transport 113

Champagne’s Swamp Tours (Breaux Bridge) 169

Chicot State Park (Cajun Prairie) 170children, travel with 26-7, 174City Park 27, 141-2, 141City Park (neighborhood)

139-50, 139, 252-3activities 150drinking 140, 148-9entertainment 149food 140, 145-8highlights 139-40, 141-2history 141nightlife 140, 148-9shopping 149-50sights 141-5sports 150transport 140

climate 15

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

See also separate subindexes for:

5 EATING P228

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P229

3 ENTERTAINMENT P230

7 SHOPPING P230

4 SLEEPING P231

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES P231

225©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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climbing 94Clouet Gardens 84cocktails 9, 32-3, 9coffee 33-4Coliseum Square 115Confederate Memorial Hall

Museum 100Confederate statues 189Congo Square 154, 155Contemporary Arts Center

99-100costs 14, 29, 173, 174,

218, 221credit cards 220Creole architecture 7, 204,

205, 206, 7Creole cottages 206Creole food 20-1, 28Creole people 191-2, 200Crescent Park 10, 27, 84, 11culture 188-9currency 14Customs regulations 218cycling 94, 215-16Cypremort Point State

Park (Cajun wetlands) 168

Ddance 38Davis, Jefferson 189Destrehan Plantation (Plan-

tation Country) 162drinking & nightlife 9, 32-6,

34, 9, 32, see also Drinking & Nightlife subindex, individual neighborhoods

clubs 34costs 33opening hours 33

Eeconomy 188-9electricity 218emergencies 219entertainment 37-9, see

also Entertainment subindex, individual neighborhoods

environmental issues 188-9, 211-12, 215

Esplanade Avenue 143etiquette 17, 220events, see festivals &

events

FFair Grounds Race

Course 144Faubourg Marigny 46-7,

82-94, 82, 238-9accommodations 83,

180-1activities 94drinking 83, 88-90entertainment 90-3food 83, 86-8highlights 82-3nightlife 83, 86-8shopping 93-4sights 84-6sports 94transport 83

faubourgs 204festivals & events 22-5, see

also individual neighborhoods

Bayou Boogaloo 23children, with 27French Quarter

Festival 23Gay Easter Parade 23, 42Jazz Fest 23, 74-81, 75,

77, 80Mardi Gras 9, 22, 27, 74-

81, 8, 75, 76-7, 79Running of the Bulls 23Southern Decadence 24,

43, 24film 38, 188fire 219Fly 129food 28-31, 30 3, 28,

80, see also Eating subindex, individual neighborhoods

costs 29opening hours 29

free attractions 21French influence 190-1French Market 57French Quarter 46, 48-73,

48, 234-5, 3, 17, 26, 45, 203

accommodations 49, 176-80

activities 73drinking 64, 66-8entertainment 68-70food 59-64highlights 48-9, 50-5nightlife 64, 66-8shopping 70-3sights 50-5sports 73walks 65, 65

Frenchmen Street 84Freret Street 130

GGallery Burguieres 58Gallier Hall 100Gallier House

Museum 57Garden 47, 112-24, 246-7

accommodations 113, 184-5

activities 124drinking 113, 120-2entertainment 122food 113, 116-20highlights 112-13, 114nightlife 113, 120-2 shopping 113, 122-4sights 114-16sports 124transport 113walks 117, 121, 117, 121

gardens, see parks & gardens

Gay Easter Parade 23, 42gay travelers 42-3George Schmidt Gallery 101ghost tours 160gumbo 29

HHarouni Gallery 56haunted hotels 178Healing Center 84health 219Hemmerling Gallery of

Southern Art 58Hermann-Grima

House 57Historic Voodoo

Museum 58history 124, 145, 190-9Hogan Jazz Archive 128-9holidays 220horse racing 144hotels 173House of Dance &

Feathers 85Hurricane Katrina 17,

197-8, 211

IInsectarium 26, 99, 3insurance 219internet access 219Irish Channel 115itineraries 18-19, 106, 117,

121, 161-72

JJackson Square 27, 52,

6-7, 52jambalaya 29, 80Jazz Fest 23, 74-81, 75,

77, 80food 81history 78

jazz music 39, 74-81, 196, 208

Joan of Arc Parade 22Jungle Gardens 168

Kkayaking 150KBON (Cajun Prairie) 171

LLafayette 167-70Lafayette Cemetery

No 1 114, 114Lafitte Greenway 13, 154Lake Martin (Breaux

Bridge) 168land loss 188, 198languages 14Laura Plantation

(Plantation Country) 162, 205

Laurel Valley Village Plantation (The Bayou) 164

Laveau, Marie 155, 202Le Musée de f.p.c. 155-6Lee Circle 100-1Lee, Robert E 189legal matters 219-20LeMieux Galleries 100lesbian travelers 42-3Levee Path 128levee system 211-12LGBT+ travelers 42-3literature 188, 212live music 7, 21, 37, 39,

6-7, 17Louis Armstrong Park 154Louisiana Children’s

Museum 99Louisiana Lost Land

Tours (The Bayou) 165Louisiana Purchase 200Lower 9th Ward 85Lower Bourbon Street 56Lower Garden 112-24, 112,

246-7accommodations 113,

184-5activities 124drinking 113, 120-2

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

226

IND

EX C-L

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Lower Garden continuedentertainment 122food 113, 116-20highlights 112-13, 114nightlife 113, 120-2shopping 113, 122-4sights 114-16sports 124transport 113

Loyola University 128Lucky Rose 58

MMagazine Street 12, 40, 12Mardi Gras 9, 22, 27, 74-81,

157, 8, 75, 76-7, 79Markey Park 85Marsalis, Branford 208Marsalis, Ellis 208Marsalis, Wynton 208Mary Ann Brown

Preserve (St Francisville) 166

McIlhenny Tabasco Factory 168

McKenna Museum of African American Art 116

Metairie Cemetery 144Michalopoulos Gallery 58Mid-City 47, 139-50, 139,

252-3accommodations 186activities 150drinking 140, 148-9entertainment 149food 140, 145-8highlights 139-40, 141-2nightlife 140, 148-9shopping 149-50sights 141-5sports 150transport 140

Milton H Latter Memorial Library 128

minigolf 150Mississippi River 10, 27, 48,

59, 128Mississippi riverboats 64mobile phones 14money 14, 29, 174, 218, 220Moonwalk 59Morial, Ernest ‘Dutch’ 197Morial, Marc 197Mortuary Chapel 156motorcycle travel 216-17muffulettas 29Museum of Death 58, 59museums 21, see also

individual museums

music 154, 196, 208-10bounce 209classical music 38funk 208-9jazz 39, 208live music 7, 21, 37, 39,

91, 6-7, 17opera 38R&B 208-9rock 39, 210zydeco 39, 209

Musical Legends Park 59

NNagin, Ray 197National WWII Museum

97, 97Native Americans 157Neville, Aaron 209Neville, Art 209New Iberia 168New Orleans African

American Museum 156New Orleans Cotton

Exchange 100New Orleans Jazz Museum

at the Old US Mint 57New Orleans Jazz National

Historic Park 58New Orleans Museum of

Art 143New Orleans Pharmacy

Museum 56Newcomb Art Museum 128newspapers 219Ninth Ward Victory Arch

84-5

OOak Alley Plantation

(Plantation Country) 162-3

Oakley Plantation & Audu-bon State Historic Site (St Francisville) 166

Ogden Museum of Southern Art 98, 98

oil 196, 212Oliver, Joe ‘King’ 208Opelousas Museum &

Interpretive Center (Cajun Prairie) 171

opening hours 29, 220Our Lady of the Rosary

Rectory 144

PPalace Market 84parking 173, 216parks & gardens 21, see

also individual parks & gardens

Peristyle 143Pitot House 143planning 16-17

budgeting 14, 21, 29children, travel with 26-7itineraries 18-19New Orleans basics 14-15New Orleans’

neighborhoods 46-7packing 16repeat visitors 13travel seasons 15websites 14

plantations 162-3Plessy v Ferguson

Plaque 85po’boy 9, 25, 29, 31, 8police 219politics 188-9population 189, 200-2

demographics 191-2, 196-7

postal services 220Prairie Acadian Cultural

Center (Cajun Prairie) 170-1

Presbytère 53, 203Preservation Hall 68, 5, 37Preservation Resource

Center 101Press Street Gardens 84public holidays 220

Rrace issues 193-9radio 209, 219Red Dress Run 24, 24refunds 17Rig Museum (The

Bayou) 164Riverbend 125-38, 125,

248-9accommodations 126,

185-6drinking 126, 134-6entertainment 136food 126, 129-34highlights 125-6, 127nightlife 126, 134-6shopping 126, 136-8sights 127-9transport 126

Riverfront 59Rodrigue Studio 58Rosedown Plantation

Historic Site (St Francisville) 166

Royal Street 54, 17, 54Running of the Bulls 23

Ssafety 16, 220-1Sanctuary 144-5Scrap House 100Second Lines 10, 158, 10Shadows on the Teche 168shopping 12, 40-1, 12, see

also Shopping subindex, individual neighborhoods

shotgun houses 206, 206slavery 193-4

Code Noir 193smoking 219Soren Christensen

Gallery 101Southeastern Architectural

Archive 128Southern Decadence 24,

43, 24Southern Food & Beverage

Museum 115souvenirs 40Spanish influence 190-1spas 124sports, see Sports &

Activities subindex, individual neighborhoods

St Augustine’s Church 156St Charles

Avenue 110-11, 110-111St Charles Avenue

Streetcar 11, 110-11, 129, 11, 110-11

St Claude Shuffle 91St Francisville 165-7St Louis Cathedral 55, 55St Louis Cemetery No 1

153, 153St Louis Cemetery No

3 144St Vincent de Paul

Cemetery 84St Vincent’s Infant

Asylum 116Storyland 144streetcars 11, 110-11, 217,

11, 110-11Sydney & Walda Besthoff

Sculpture Garden 143

Ttaxes 17, 221taxi travel 215, 217telephone services 14, 221Tennessee Williams

Literary Festival 93The Historic New Orleans

Collection 56time 14, 221tipping 17, 33, 220

227IN

DEX L-T

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toilets 221tourist information 14, 221Touro Synagogue 128Toussaint, Allen 208train travel 215travel to New Orleans 15travel within New Orleans

15, 215-17Tremé-Lafitte 47, 151-60,

151, 254-5accommodations 152,

186activities 160drinking 152, 159entertainment 159-60food 152, 156-9highlights 151-2, 153nightlife 152, 159shopping 160sights 153-6sports 160transport 152

Tulane University 129Tunica Falls (St

Francisville) 166TV 188

UUnited Fruit Company 102Upper Bourbon Street 56Uptown 47, 125-38, 125,

248-9accommodations 126,

185-6budget travel 133drinking 126, 134-6entertainment 136food 126, 129-34highlights 125-6, 127nightlife 126, 134-6shopping 126, 136-8sights 127-9transport 126

Ursuline Convent 56

Vvacations 220Vermilionville

(Lafayette) 167visas 14, 222volunteering 222voodoo 155, 160, 201-2, 210Voodoo Spiritual Temple 86

Wwalks

French Quarter 65, 65Garden 117, 121, 117, 121Warehouse District

106, 106Warehouse District 95-109,

95, 242-3accommodations 96activities 109drinking 96, 104-7entertainment 107-8food 96, 101-4highlights 95-6, 97, 98nightlife 96, 104-7shopping 96, 108-9sights 97-101sports 109transport 96walks 106, 106

Washington Square Park 85-6

weather 15websites 14, 174Wetlands Acadian Cultural

Center (The Bayou) 164White Linen Night 25Whitney Plantation

(Plantation Country) 162

Williams Research Center 59

Williams, Tennessee 23, 42, 93, 111

wine 33women travellers 222

YYats 201yoga 94

Zzoos 26, 127 zydeco 39

5 EATING13 Monaghan 881000 Figs 146-7

AAcme Oyster & Seafood

House 62Adolfo’s 88Al Aqaba (St Francisville)

166American Sector 104Angelo Brocato 146

Antoine’s 61Arnaud’s 60Avo 132

BBa Chi Canteen 129Bacchanal 88Balise 103Bao & Noodle 88Bayona 60Bearcat Cafe 130-1Bennachin 63Bevi Seafood Co. 147Big Fisherman

Seafood 118-19Billy’s Boudin & Cracklins

(Cajun Prairie) 171Birdman Coffee & Books

(St Francisville) 166Biscuits & Buns on Banks

146Bon Ton Café 104Boucherie 132Bourbon House 60Bourée 131-2Breads on Oak 131Brennan’s Restaurant 61Broussard’s 61Brown Butter 147Buttermilk Drop 156Bywater American Bistro

88Bywater Bakery 86

CCafé Adelaide 103Café Amelie 62Café Beignet 63Café Degas 147Café du Monde 63Café Mosaic (Cajun

Prairie) 171Café Reconcile 118Cajun Seafood 157Cake Café & Bakery 86Camellia Grill 131Canseco’s 146Carmo 101Casa Borrega 119Casamento’s 131Central City BBQ 119Central Grocery 63Clancy’s 133Clover Grill 63-4Cochon 102-3Cochon Butcher 101Commander’s Palace

119-20Company Burger 101-2

Compère Lapin 13, 104Coop’s Place 61Coquette 119Court of the Two Sisters 60Cowbell 132Crawfish House & Grill

(Cajun Prairie) 171Creole Creamery 130Crescent City Steaks 148Croissant D’Or Patisserie 63

DDante’s Kitchen 133Dat Dog 88, 130Deanie’s Seafood 62Delachaise 132-3Dickie Brennan’s

Steakhouse 61District 118Domenica 103Domilise’s Po-Boys 132Dooky Chase 159Drago’s Seafood

Restaurant 103Drip Affogato 101Dryades Public Market 116DTB 133-4Dwyer’s (Lafayette) 169

EEat New Orleans 61Elizabeth’s 88Emeril’s 104

FFiorella’s 62-3Fremin’s (The Bayou) 164-5French Press (Lafayette)

168-9

GGabrielle 158Galatoire’s 60Gautreau’s 134Gene’s 88Green Goddess 62Guy’s 131GW Fins 61

HHansen’s Sno-Bliz 131Herbsaint 103High Hat Cafe 130Horn’s 87

IIdeal Market 146Irene’s Cuisine 62

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

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JJacques-Imo’s Café 132Johnny Sanchez 104Johnny’s Po-Boys 64Johnson’s Boucanière

(Lafayette) 169Joint 87Juan’s Flying Burrito 119Junction 87

KKatie’s 147Kebab 86K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen

61Kukhnya 87

LLa Boca 104La Petite Grocery 133LeJeune’s (The Bayou) 164Lil’ Dizzy’s 157Lilette 134Liuzza’s By The Track 145Lola’s 147Lost Love 87Luke 103

MMagnolia Café (St

Francisville) 166Mahony’s Po-Boy

Shop 132Mais Arepas 118Manchu 158Mandina’s 148Marjie’s Grill 13, 146Maypop 103-4Meauxbar 62Midway Pizza 133Mister Gregory’s 63Mona Lisa 63MoPho 147-8Morning Call 146Mosca’s (Plantation

Country) 163Mother’s 102Muriel’s 59, 60

NNamese 145-6Neyow’s 147Nola 62Nomiya 129-30Nonna Mia Café

& Pizzeria 146

PPagoda Cafe 157Parasol’s 118Parasol’s 116Parkway Tavern 145Patois 134Peche Seafood Grill 102Pho Cam Ly 130Pho Tau Bay 101Pizza Delicious 86Pizza Domenica 132Poche’s Cajun Restaurant

(Breaux Bridge) 169Poke-chan 86Poke Loa 116Poke Poke 13Port of Call 62Public Service 103

QQueenie’s 87

RRampart Food Store 86-7Red’s Chinese 86Refuel 131Restaurant August 104Rita Mae’s Kitchen (The

Bayou) 164Ruby Slipper 146Ruby Slipper

Downtown 102Ruby’s Restaurant (Cajun

Prairie) 171

SSake Café Uptown 119Satsuma 88Satsuma Maple 131Seaworthy 13, 102Seed 118Shank Charcuterie 87Slice 118Slim Goodie’s Diner 119Sneaky Pickle 86SoBou 60Social Southern Table

(Lafayette) 169Stanley 63Stein’s Deli 116St James Cheese Co 131St James Cheese

Company 101St Lawrence 62St Roch Market 87Sucré 118Surrey’s Juice Bar 116

Sylvain 61

TTee-Eva’s Old-Fashioned

Pies & Pralines 132The Francis Southern Table

& Bar (St Francisville) 167

Toups’ Meatery 147Tracey’s 118

VVerti Marte 64

WWayfare 129Wayne Jacob’s Smoke-

house & Restaurant (Plantation Country) 163

White Bowl (The Bayou) 164Who Dat Coffee Cafe &

Cafe Nero 87Willa Jean 103Willie Mae’s Scotch House

158

6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE

AAlto 105Avenue Pub 120

BBalcony Bar 122Bar Tonique 64-5Barcadia 105Bar Redux 90Barrel Proof 120Bayou Beer Garden 149Bayou Wine Garden 149Big Daddy’s Bar 90BJ’s 89Black Penny 66Bouligny Tavern 134Bourbon Pub & Parade 68Bud Rip’s 89Buffa’s 89Bulldog 120

CCafé at Rouler 105Café Lafitte in Exile 67Cane & Table 66Carousel Bar 66CellarDoor 105

Chart Room 67Columns Hotel 135Cooter Brown’s Tavern &

Oyster Bar 135Cosimo’s 68Country Club 89-90Courtyard Brewery 120Cure 134, 32

DDeja Vu 67Double Play 67-8

EErin Rose 68

FFair Grinds 149F&M’s Patio Bar 136Faubourg Wines 90Finn McCool’s 148-9Foundry On The Bayou

Lounge (The Bayou) 165French 75 66Fulton Alley 107

HHalf Moon 122Handsome Willy’s 105Hivolt Coffee 120, 122

IIgor’s Lounge 122

JJ&J’s 89John 90

LLafitte’s Blacksmith Shop

67, 36Latitude 29 67Le Bon Temps Roulé 134Loa 107Lost Love 89Lucy’s Retired Surfers

Bar 107

MMarkey’s 90Mid-City Yacht Club 149Mimi’s in the Marigny 89Molly’s at the Market 66-7Monkey Hill Bar 135Ms Mae’s 135-6

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Mudbug Brewery (The Bayou) 165

NNapoleon House 67NOLA Brewing 120

OOak Wine Bar 135Old Absinthe House 68Orange Couch 90Oz 68

PPal’s 148Parleaux Beer Lab 90Passions 13, 59, 66Pat O’Brien’s 67Patrick’s Bar Vin 66Pearl Wine Co 149Pirate’s Alley Cafe 68Piscobar 105Polo Club Lounge 107

RR Bar 90Rendezvous 122Rue de la Course 135Rusty Nail 105

SSaint Bar & Lounge 122Sazerac Bar 105, 107Second Line Brewing 148Sidebar 149Sidney’s Saloon 159Snake & Jakes 135Solo Espresso 89Spitfire Coffee 67St Joe’s 135Station 148Still Perkin’ 122Swizzle Stick Bar 105

TTiki Tolteca 66Toulouse Dive Bar 59Treo 148Tropical Isle 67Twelve Mile Limit 148

UUrban South 120

VVerret’s Lounge 120

WWine Institute of New

Orleans 105

3ENTERTAINMENTAllWays Lounge 90Apple Barrel 92Art Garage 92-3Artmosphere (Lafayette) 169Atchafalaya Club (Cajun

wetlands) 170Balcony Music Club 70Banks Street Bar 149Blue Moon Saloon

(Lafayette) 169Blue Nile 92Broad Theater 13, 159Bullets 159Café Istanbul 92Cafe Negril 91Candlelight Lounge 159-60Checkpoint Charlie 92Chickie Wah Wah 149Cinebarre Canal Place 9 108Circle Bar 107d.b.a. 91Dragon’s Den 92Entergy Giant Screen

Theater 108Fleur de Tease 69Fountain Lounge 108Fred’s Lounge (Cajun

Prairie) 171Fritzel’s European Jazz

Pub 68Gasa Gasa 136Harrah’s Casino 108Hi Ho Lounge 91House of Blues 69Howlin’ Wolf 107Joy Theater 107-8Kajun’s Pub 91Kermit’s Treme Mother in

Law Lounge 159La Poussiere (Breaux

Bridge) 170Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux

Carré 70Liberty Theater (Cajun

Prairie) 172

Louisiana Philharmonic Orchestra 107

Lupin Theatre 136Mahalia Jackson Theater

159Maison 92Maple Leaf Bar 136Marigny Opera House 91Mercedes-Benz

Superdome 108Mudlark Theater 93New Movement Theater 92One Eyed Jacks 69Orpheum Theater 107Palm Court Jazz Café 70 Phoenix Bar 92Preservation Hall 68-9,

5, 37Prytania Theatre 136Randol’s (Lafayette) 169-70Republic New Orleans 108Rock ‘N’ Bowl 136Saenger Theatre 159Saturn Bar 92Savoy Music Center (Cajun

Prairie) 171Siberia 91Snug Harbor 91-2Spotted Cat 90-1Three Muses 92Tipitina’s 136Vaughan’s 92Zeitgeist 122

7 SHOPPING5 Press Gallery 94

AAidan Gill for Men 123Anton Haardt Gallery 123-4Arcadian Books & Art

Prints 73Ariodante 108Artisans’ Well 94

BBeckham’s Bookshop 72Berta’s & Mina’s

Antiquities 137Bloomin’ Deals 138Boutique du Vampyre 70Bywater Bargain Center 93

CC Collection 138Chiwawa Gaga 71

Cole Pratt Gallery 137Collectible Antiques 72-3Crescent City Comics 138

DDiaspora Boutique 123Dirty Coast 71, 138Disko Obscura 123Dr Bob’s Studio 93-4

EElectric Ladyland 94Esoterica Occult Goods 71Euclid Records 93

FF&F Botanica Spiritual

Supply 150Faubourg Marigny Book

Store 93Faulkner House Books 71Feet First 138Fifi Mahony’s 70Fleur de Paris 72Fleurty Girl 124Floyd’s Record Shop (Cajun

Prairie) 172French Library 13, 137French Quarter Postal

Emporium 71Freret Street Market 138Funky Monkey 123

GGarden District Bookshop

124GoGo Jewelry 123

HHazelnut 137-8Home Malone 150Hové Parfumeur 71Humidity Skate Shop 72

II.J. Reilly’s 93Island of Salvation

Botanica 94

JJames H Cohen & Sons 72Java House Imports 72

KKeife and Co 108Kitchen Witch 160

Sights 000Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

230

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LLA46 94Le Garage 73Leah’s Pralines 72Librairie Books 71Little Toy Shop 70Louisiana Music Factory 93Lucullus 71

MMagazine Antique Mall 124Maskarade 72Massey’s 150Meyer the Hatter 109Moss Antiques 72MS Rau Antiques 70

NNew Orleans Art Center 94New Orleans Art Supply 94

OOd Aomo 72Ogden Museum Store 108Outlet Collection at

Riverwalk 109

PPeaches Records

& Tapes 137Pelican Coast Clothing

Co 137Pied Nu 138Piety Street Market 93Potsalot 137

QQueork 71

RRev Zombie’s House of

Voodoo 71-2RHINO 123Rubber Library & Flower

Bodega 94

SSecondLine Art &

Antiques 70Shops at Canal Place 109Simon of New Orleans 123Stonefree 108

TTabasco Country Store 72Tchoup Industries 122-3Thomas Mann Gallery

I/O 123

Trashy Diva 71, 122Tubby & Coos 150

UUptown Costume &

Dancewear 138

YYvonne La Fleur 137

4 SLEEPING

AAce Hotel 183Alder Hotel 185Aloft New Orleans 182Ashton’s Bed & Breakfast

186Astor Crowne Plaza 180Atlas House 184Audubon Cottages 177-8Auld Sweet Olive Bed &

Breakfast 181

BBalcony Guest House 181B&W Courtyards 181Bienville House Hotel 176Bourbon Orleans Hotel 177Burgundy 180Bywater Bed & Breakfast

180

CCatahoula Hotel 13, 183Chateau Hotel 176Chimes 185City House Hostel New

Orleans 176Columns Hotel 185-6Cornstalk Hotel 179Creole Gardens 184Crescent City Guesthouse

180

DDauphine Orleans 179Drifter Hotel, The 186Degas House 186Drury Inn & Suites 182

EEmbassy Suites Hotel 182

FFairchild House 184Frenchmen Hotel 181

GGarden District B&B 184Gentry Quarters 176Green House Inn 184

HHenry Howard Hotel 185HH Whitney House 186Historic French Market

Inn 176Hotel Indigo 185Hotel Maison de Ville 180Hotel Modern 182Hotel Monteleone 179Hotel Provincial 177Hotel Royal 176Hotel St Marie 177Hotel Villa Convento 177

IIndia House Hostel 186Inn on St Peter 176-7Inn on Ursulines 179International House 183

LLa Belle Esplanade 186La Quinta Inn & Suites

Downtown 182Lafayette Hotel 182Lafitte Guest House 178-9Lamothe House 181Le Pavillon 182-3Le Richelieu 177Lions Inn B&B 180Loews New Orleans Hotel

183Loft 523 181-2Lookout Inn of New

Orleans 180

MMaison de Macarty 181Melrose Mansion 180-1Moxy Hotel New Orleans

182

NNine-O-Five Royal Hotel

176NOPSI Hotel 183

OOlivier House 177Omni Royal

Orleans 179

PParisian Courtyard 185Park View Historic Hotel

185Pierre Coulon Guest

House 181Prince Conti Hotel 177Prytania Park 184

QQueen Anne, The 185

RRitz-Carlton New Orleans

179Roosevelt New Orleans 183Royal Sonesta 180

SSaint 178Soniat House Hotel 178

TTerrell House 184

WW French Quarter 179Westin New Orleans at

Canal Place 179Windsor Court Hotel 183-4

2 SPORTS & ACTIVITIES

American Bicycle Rental Co 73

American Photo Safari 73Belladonna Day Spa 124City Putt 150Confederacy of Cruisers 94Escape My Room New

Orleans 109Friends of the Cabildo 73Haunted History Tours 73Kayakitiyat 150Magic Tours 73New Orleans Boulder

Lounge 94New Orleans Culinary

History Tours 73New Orleans School of

Cooking 73Nola Gondola 150Royal Carriage Tours 73Save Our Cemeteries 124Tours By Judy 73Voodoo Bone Lady 160Wheel Fun Rentals 150Wild Lotus Yoga 94

231IN

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Walking Tour detourWalking Tour

Path/Walking Trail

BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information

Airport

Border crossingBART station

Boston T stationBus

CyclingFerry

Underground station

MonorailParking

Metro/Muni station

Petrol stationSubway/SkyTrain stationTaxiTrain station/RailwayTram

Other Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

Beach

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River, CreekIntermittent River

Swamp/Mangrove

Reef

Canal

Water

Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake

Glacier

Beach/Desert

Airport/Runway

Cemetery (Christian)

Cemetery (Other)

Park/Forest

Mudflat

Sportsground

Sight (Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

Pedestrian overpass

Secondary

Unsealed roadRoad under construction

Tunnel

Cable car/Funicular

BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuin

Sento Hot Baths/Onsen

ShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight

DivingBodysurfing

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking & NightlifeCafe

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingCourse/Tour

SkiingSnorkelingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity

Gate

Information Routes

Boundaries

Hydrography

Areas

Geographic

Population

Transport

Sights

Activities,Courses & Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Nightlife

Entertainment

ShoppingNote: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book

New Orleans Maps

232 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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Page 18: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

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Page 19: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

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Page 20: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

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æ Sights (p84) 29 Lost Love .....................................................C4 1 Art Garden ................................................... G1 30 Pizza Delicious.............................................F5 2 Clouet Gardens ...........................................E5 31 Poke-chan ...................................................D4 3 Crescent Park..............................................F6 32 Queenie's..................................................... F4 4 Frenchmen Street.......................................G2 33 Rampart Food Store .................................. A4 5 Healing Center ............................................C4 34 Red's Chinese ............................................. E4 6 Markey Park ................................................ F5 35 Satsuma .......................................................F5 7 Ninth Ward Victory Arch............................G5 36 Shank Charcuterie .....................................C4 8 Palace Market ............................................. G1 37 Sneaky Pickle..............................................H4 9 Plessy v Ferguson Plaque..........................D5 38 St Roch Market...........................................C4 10 Press Street Gardens.................................D5 39 Who Dat Coffee Cafe & Cafe Nero...........C4 11 St Vincent de Paul Cemetery.................... F3

12 Voodoo Spiritual Temple...........................A4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p88) 13 Washington Square Park...........................B5 40 Bar Redux....................................................H6 41 Big Daddy's Bar .......................................... C5 ú Eating (p86) 42 BJ's...............................................................H5 14 13 Monaghan .............................................. H3 43 Bud Rip's.......................................................F5 15 Adolfo's ........................................................ G1 44 Buffa's.......................................................... A5 16 Bacchanal ................................................... H6 45 Country Club............................................... E5 17 Bao & Noodle...............................................D5 46 Faubourg Wines..........................................D4 18 Bywater American Bistro ..........................D5 47 J&J's.............................................................H5 19 Bywater Bakery........................................... F5 48 John..............................................................B4 20 Cake Café & Bakery....................................C5 Lost Love ........................................... (see 29) 21 Dat Dog ........................................................G2 49 Markey's ...................................................... E5 22 Elizabeth's....................................................F6 50 Mimi's in the Marigny................................. D5 23 Gene's...........................................................B4 51 Orange Couch............................................. C5 24 Horn's ...........................................................B5 52 Parleaux Beer Lab......................................H6 25 Joint ............................................................. G6 53 R Bar............................................................. A5 26 Junction .......................................................E4

27 Kebab ...........................................................C4 ý Entertainment (p90) 28 Kukhnya .......................................................B4 54 AllWays Lounge ..........................................B4

240

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fAuBOurG M

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AtEr 55 Apple Barrel.................................................G2 79 Faubourg Marigny Book Store .................G2 56 Art Garage ...................................................B4 80 I.J. Reilly's .....................................................H1 57 Blue Nile .......................................................G3 Island of Salvation Botanica ..............(see 5) Café Istanbul ....................................... (see 5) 81 LA46.............................................................B4 58 Cafe Negril ...................................................G2 82 Louisiana Music Factory ...........................H3 59 Checkpoint Charlie .....................................G3 83 New Orleans Art Center ............................ F4 60 d.b.a..............................................................G2 84 New Orleans Art Supply ............................ E4 61 Dragon's Den.............................................. H4 85 Piety Street Market.....................................F5 62 Hi Ho Lounge...............................................C4 86 Rubber Library & Flower Bodega..............F5 63 Kajun's Pub..................................................C4

64 Maison..........................................................G3 Ø Sports & Activities (p94) 65 Marigny Opera House ................................D4 87 Confederacy of Cruisers ............................H1 66 Mudlark Theater .........................................D3 88 New Orleans Boulder Lounge...................C4 67 New Movement Wild Lotus Yoga...................................(see 5) Theater......................................................D4

68 Phoenix Bar .................................................B4 ÿ Sleeping (p180) 69 Saturn Bar....................................................E4 89 Auld Sweet Olive Bed & Siberia ................................................(see 28) Breakfast ..................................................C4 70 Snug Harbor ................................................ G1 90 B&W Courtyards ........................................ C5 71 Spotted Cat ................................................. G1 91 Balcony Guest House ................................C5 72 Three Muses................................................G2 92 Burgundy.....................................................C4 73 Vaughan's ................................................... H6 93 Bywater Bed & Breakfast.......................... E4 94 Crescent City Guesthouse........................ B5 þ Shopping (p93) 95 Dauphine House......................................... A5 74 5 Press Gallery ............................................D5 96 Frenchmen Hotel........................................H3 Artisans' Well....................................... (see 5) 97 Lamothe House .......................................... B5 75 Bywater Bargain 98 Lions Inn B&B ............................................. C5 Center........................................................E5 99 Lookout Inn of New Orleans .....................H5 76 Dr Bob's Studio...........................................E5 100 Maison de Macarty..................................... G5 77 Electric Ladyland ........................................ G1 101 Melrose Mansion........................................ A5 78 Euclid Records ............................................F6 102 Pierre Coulon Guest House ...................... C5

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æ Top Sights (p97) 32 Johnny Sanchez............ C3 Louisiana 1 National WWII Museum E6 33 La Boca........................... F6 Philharmonic 2 Ogden Museum of 34 Luke ................................ E3 Orchestra.......... (see 60) Southern Art............... D6 35 Maypop ..........................C4 59 Mercedes-Benz 36 Mother's ......................... F4 Superdome................. A3 æ Sights (p99) 37 Peche Seafood Grill ...... E5 60 Orpheum Theater ......... D2 3 Aquarium of the 38 Pho Tau Bay....................B1 61 Republic New Orleans.. F6 Americas.....................G3 Public Service.......(see 81)

4 Arthur Roger Gallery .....E5 39 Restaurant August.........F3 þ Shopping (p108) 5 Confederate Memorial 40 Ruby Slipper – 62 Ariodante ....................... E5 Hall Museum............... D6 Downtown....................F3 63 Keife and Co ..................D6 6 Contemporary Arts 41 Seaworthy......................D4 64 Meyer the Hatter........... E2 Center.......................... E6 42 St James Cheese Ogden Museum 7 Gallier Hall......................D4 Company......................F5 Store .....................(see 2) 8 George Schmidt 43 Willa Jean .......................C4 65 Outlet Collection at Gallery ......................... D5 Riverwalk.....................H5 9 Insectarium.....................F3 û Drinking & Nightlife (p104) Shops at Canal 10 Lee Circle .......................D6 44 Alto..................................D4 Place .................. (see 53) 11 LeMieux Galleries...........F6 45 Barcadia ......................... F4 66 Stonefree .......................C4 12 Louisiana Children's 46 Café at Rouler................D4

Museum .......................F6 47 CellarDoor......................C4 Ø Sports & Activities (p109) 13 New Orleans Cotton 48 Fulton Alley ....................G5 67 Creole Queen.................H4 Exchange .................... D3 49 Handsome Willy's ..........B1 68 Escape My Room New 14 Preservation Resource Loa .........................(see 75) Orleans ........................ E4 Center...........................F6 50 Lucy's Retired

15 Scrap House.................. G7 Surfers Bar ..................F5 ÿ Sleeping (p181) 16 Soren Christensen Piscobar ................ (see 71) 69 Ace Hotel........................D4 Gallery ..........................F6 Polo Club Lounge (see 83) 70 Aloft New Orleans......... D2 17 United Fruit Company.. E3 51 Rusty Nail........................E7 71 Catahoula Hotel ............ D3 Sazerac Bar ......... (see 82) 72 Drury Inn & Suites.........D4 ú Eating (p101) Swizzle Stick Bar..(see 21) 73 Embassy Suites Hotel ...F5 18 American Sector........... E6 52 Wine Institute of New 74 Hotel Modern.................D6 19 Balise ..............................D4 Orleans (WINO)...........F5 75 International House...... E3 20 Bon Ton Café................. E4 76 La Quinta Inn & 21 Café Adelaide .................F4 ý Entertainment (p107) Suites Downtown....... E3 22 Carmo..............................E5 53 Cinebarre Canal 77 Lafayette Hotel..............D4 23 Cochon ............................F7 Place 9..........................F3 78 Le Pavillon......................D3 24 Cochon Butcher.............F7 54 Circle Bar ....................... D7 Loews New 25 Company Burger .......... C4 55 Entergy Giant Screen Orleans Hotel.....(see 21) 26 Compère Lapin...............F4 Theater........................G3 79 Loft 523.......................... E3 27 Domenica....................... D2 Fountain Lounge . (see 27) 80 Moxy Hotel New 28 Drago's Seafood 56 Harrah's Casino............. F4 Orleans ........................D2 Restaurant ..................G4 57 Howlin' Wolf................... F6 81 NOPSI Hotel...................D3 29 Drip Affogato ................. D5 58 Joy Theater.....................C1 82 Roosevelt New 30 Emeril's............................F6 Orleans ........................D2 31 Herbsaint ....................... D5 83 Windsor Court Hotel..... F4

244

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Page 28: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

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Page 29: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

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Page 30: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

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Page 32: Plan Your Trip 12 New Orleans - Lonely Planet · riot of rainbow residences; on the way, you’ll pass the Press Street Gardens (p 84). Once you pass Press St, you’re in the By

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æ Top Sights (p127) 42 St James Cheese Co.................................. E6 1 Audubon Zoo...............................................B6 43 Tee-Eva's Old-Fashioned Pies & Pralines ..................................................... E6 æ Sights (p128) Wayfare............................................... (see 31) 2 Alex Beard Studio ...................................... G6 44 Whole Foods ...............................................D6 3 Amistad Research Center .........................C4

4 Audubon Park..............................................B5 û Drinking & Nightlife (p134) 5 Fly..................................................................A6 Bouligny Tavern................................ (see 34) 6 Hogan Jazz Archive ....................................C3 45 Columns Hotel ............................................ G5 7 Levee Path ...................................................A2 46 Cooter Brown's Tavern & Oyster Bar...... A3 8 Loyola University ........................................C4 47 Cure.............................................................. E4 9 Newcomb Art Museum ..............................C3 48 F&M's Patio Bar...........................................E7 Southeastern Architectural 49 Le Bon Temps Roulé.................................. E6 Archives ............................................ (see 6) 50 Monkey Hill Bar...........................................C6 10 Touro Synagogue ....................................... F5 Ms Mae's.............................................(see 18) 11 Tulane University........................................C3 51 Oak Wine Bar .............................................. B2 52 Rue de la Course......................................... B2 ú Eating (p129) 53 Snake & Jakes............................................. B2 12 Avo ................................................................C6 54 St Joe's ........................................................D6 13 Ba Chi Canteen ...........................................B3

14 Bearcat Cafe................................................E4 ý Entertainment (p136) 15 Boucherie.....................................................B2 55 Gasa Gasa ................................................... E4 Bourée.................................................(see 15) 56 Lupin Theatre..............................................C4 16 Breads on Oak............................................. A1 57 Maple Leaf Bar............................................ B2 17 Camellia Grill ...............................................A3 58 Prytania Theatre......................................... D5 18 Casamento's ............................................... F6 59 Tipitina's .......................................................F7 19 Clancy's........................................................C7

20 Company Burger ........................................E4 þ Shopping (p136) 21 Cowbell......................................................... A1 60 Berta's & Mina's Antiquities...................... F6 22 Creole Creamery.........................................E6 61 Bloomin' Deals............................................ E4 23 Dante's Kitchen...........................................A2 62 C Collection................................................. A2 24 Dat Dog ........................................................E4 Cole Pratt Gallery ............................. (see 38) 25 Delachaise ...................................................G5 63 Crescent City Comics................................ E4 26 Domilise's Po-Boys.....................................D7 64 Dirty Coast ..................................................D6 27 DTB ...............................................................B2 65 Feet First...................................................... F6 28 Gautreau's ................................................... E5 66 French Library ............................................G6 29 Guy's.............................................................D6 67 Freret Street Market .................................. F4 30 Hansen's Sno-Bliz....................................... E7 68 Hazelnut ......................................................D6 31 High Hat Cafe ..............................................E4 Peaches Records & Tapes ...............(see 18) 32 Jacques-Imo's Café....................................B2 Pelican Coast Clothing Co............... (see 68) 33 La Petite Grocery........................................ F6 Pied Nu............................................... (see 68) 34 Lilette........................................................... G6 69 Potsalot........................................................G6 35 Mahony's Po-Boy Shop............................. G6 Uptown Costume & Dancewear......(see 18) 36 Midway Pizza...............................................E4 70 Yvonne La Fleur .......................................... A2 Nomiya ...............................................(see 33)

37 Patois............................................................C6 ÿ Sleeping (p185) 38 Pho Cam Ly ................................................ G6 71 Alder Hotel .................................................. E3 39 Pizza Domenica ..........................................E6 72 Chimes......................................................... F6 40 Refuel ...........................................................A2 Columns Hotel .................................. (see 45) 41 Satsuma Maple ...........................................B3 73 Park View Historic Hotel............................ B4

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æ Top Sights (p141) 34 Namese........................................................C6 1 City Park....................................................... F2 35 Neyow's ........................................................F5 Nonna Mia Café & Pizzeria.............. (see 23) æ Sights (p143) 36 Parkway Tavern.......................................... F4 2 Alcee Fortier Park.......................................G3 37 Ruby Slipper.................................................F7 3 Bayou St John ............................................. F2 38 Toups' Meatery........................................... E3 4 Botanical Gardens.......................................E1

5 Carousel Gardens Amusement Park ....... D1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p148) 6 Esplanade Avenue ......................................G3 39 Bayou Beer Garden.....................................F5 7 Fair Grounds Race Course ....................... H2 40 Bayou Wine Garden ....................................F5 8 Metairie Cemetery......................................A2 41 Fair Grinds...................................................G3 9 New Orleans Museum of Art......................E1 42 Finn McCool's ............................................. D5 10 Our Lady of the Rosary Rectory ...............G2 43 Mid-City Yacht Club ................................... B4 11 Peristyle .......................................................E2 44 Pal's..............................................................G4 12 Pitot House.................................................. F2 45 Pearl Wine Co.............................................. E4 13 Sanctuary .................................................... F3 46 Second Line Brewing................................. C2 14 Singing Oak...................................................F1 47 Sidebar..........................................................E7 15 St Louis Cemetery No 3............................. G1 48 Station .........................................................C3 16 Storyland ..................................................... D1 49 Treo ..............................................................C6 17 Sydney & Walda Besthoff Sculpture 50 Twelve Mile Limit........................................D6 Garden........................................................E1

ý Entertainment (p149) ú Eating (p145) 51 Banks Street Bar........................................C4 18 1000 Figs .....................................................G3 52 Chickie Wah Wah........................................ F6 19 Angelo Brocato ...........................................D4

20 Bevi Seafood Co..........................................D4 þ Shopping (p149) 21 Biscuits & Buns on Banks..........................C4 53 F&F Botanica Spiritual Supply..................H5 22 Brown Butter...............................................D4 54 Home Malone.............................................. E3 23 Café Degas...................................................G3 55 Massey's......................................................D3 24 Canseco's ....................................................G3 56 Tubby & Coos .............................................D3 25 Crescent City Steaks................................. H4

26 Ideal Market................................................. F7 Ø Sports & Activities (p150) 27 Katie's...........................................................E5 57 City Putt........................................................D1 28 Liuzza's By The Track ............................... H3 58 Nola Gondola ............................................... F1 29 Lola's ............................................................G3 59 Wheel Fun Rentals....................................... F1 30 Mandina's.....................................................D5

31 Marjie's Grill................................................. F7 ÿ Sleeping (p186) 32 MoPho ..........................................................C2 60 India House Hostel..................................... F6 33 Morning Call .................................................E1 61 The Drifter Hotel.........................................D6

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æ Top Sights (p153) 1 St Louis Cemetery No 1 ...............................D7

æ Sights (p154) 2 Backstreet Cultural Museum...................... E6 3 Congo Square ............................................... E7 4 Lafitte Greenway...........................................C6 5 Le Musée de f.p.c..........................................C3 6 Louis Armstrong Park.................................. E6 7 Louis Armstrong Statue .............................. E6 8 Mortuary Chapel........................................... D7 9 New Orleans African American Museum.. E5 10 St Augustine's Church ................................. E5

ú Eating (p156) 11 Buttermilk Drops ...........................................D1 12 Cajun Seafood............................................... E4 13 Dooky Chase ................................................. B5 14 Gabrielle .........................................................B4 15 Lil' Dizzy's ...................................................... E4 16 Manchu .......................................................... E4 17 Pagoda Cafe ..................................................C3 18 Willie Mae's Scotch House ..........................B4

û Drinking & Nightlife (p159) 19 Sidney's Saloon..............................................F5

ý Entertainment (p159) 20 Broad Theater ...............................................A4 21 Candlelight Lounge....................................... D5 22 Kermit's Treme Mother in Law Lounge..... E4 23 Mahalia Jackson Theater.............................D6

þ Shopping (p160) 24 Kitchen Witch................................................C2

Ø Sports & Activities (p160) 25 The Voodoo Bone Lady................................D7

ÿ Sleeping (p186) 26 Ashton's Bed & Breakfast ...........................D3 27 Degas House .................................................C3 28 HH Whitney House .......................................D4 29 La Belle Esplanade........................................C3

255

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Published by Lonely Planet Global LimitedCRN 5541538th edition – Nov 2018ISBN 978 1 78657 179 3© Lonely Planet 2018 Photographs © as indicated 201810 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.

Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.

Our WritersAdam KarlinFaubourg Marigny & Bywater; CBD & Warehouse District; Garden, Lower Garden & Central City; Mid-City, Bayou St John & City Park; Tremé-Lafitte Adam has contributed to dozens of Lonely Planet guidebooks, covering an alphabetical spread that ranges from the Andaman Islands to the Zimbabwe border. As a journalist, he has written on travel, crime, politics, archeology and

the Sri Lankan Civil War, among other topics. He has sent dispatches from every continent barring Antarctica (one day!), and his essays and articles have featured in the BBC, NPR and multiple non-fiction anthologies. He is based out of New Orleans, which helps explain his love of wetlands, food and good music. Learn more at http://walkonfine.com or follow on Instagram @adamwalkonfine. Adam also wrote the Plan Your Trip, Understand New Orleans and Survival Guide sections.

Ray BartlettFrench Quarter, Uptown & Riverbend, Day Trips from New Orleans Ray has been travel writing for nearly two decades, bringing Japan, Korea, Mexico and many parts of the United States to life in rich detail for top publish-ers, newspapers and magazines. His acclaimed debut novel, Sunsets of Tulum, set in Yucatán, was a Midwest Book Review 2016 Fiction pick. Among other

pursuits, he surfs regularly and is an accomplished Argentine tango dancer. Follow him on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram or contact him via www.kaisora.com, his website. Ray currently divides his time between homes in the USA, Japan and Mexico.

Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.

Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

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© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’