I t••e~ I g ..... e N I G H T L I F E

Havana is best seen from a vintage car, so hail a i95os convertible and cruise the waterfront Malec6n to the Miramar neighborhood, where you can walk through the high-ceilinged parlors of the converted mansion Espacios (espacios-habana.com). In the back is a leafy outdoor bar with a louche, garden-party vibe. In nearby Vedado, where the bes t bars are located, Bar Bohemia (1065 Calle 21; 53-7-833-6918) isn't a bohemian den, but rather a restored villa that's been transformed into an airy, colonial-era lounge with a swank backyard. Order the house cocktail, a frozen blend of vodka and basil.

Gay nightlife, too, has become more visible: friendly, basement-level Humboldt 52 (52 Humboldt; 53-5-295-4893) has young, attractive barmen and the occasional drag show, while the wild dance floor at King Bar (kingbarhavana.com) showcases DJs spinning Latin and American hits.

Elsewhere in Vedado, El Cocinero (Calle 26 between Calles 11 and i3; 53-7-832-2355) is secreted up three flights of stairs in what was once a cooking-oil factory. It's now a sophisticated roof bar with sharp, professional service (not a given in Cuba) and some of the city's best daiquir is. Sip a round before braving the crowd at Fabrica de Arte Cubano (fac.cu; open Thursdays through Sundays), a warren of stages, galleries, and bars-don't be surprised

if you wander into a modern-jazz set, some performance art, and a spacious outdoor terrace, all \vi th out setting down your refreshingly dry mojito.

Farther east, the hipster crowd congre­gates at Sia Kara Cafe (s iakaracafe.com), where Havana's eclectic aes thetic finds expression in the irreverent a rt juxtaposed with quirky vintage details. Even La Guarida (laguarida.com), the city's most­publ icized paladat; or in-home restaurant, has recently opened a new rooftop bar. IL serves refined cocktails crafted by internationally recognized British and American mixologists.

TREN DI NG I NEW INFUSIONS From California to Cuzco, Peru, ingenious bartend­ers are altering the flavor profiles of classic cocktails. infusing spirits with unusual ingredi­ents, creating some deliciously avant-garde results. At L.A.'s speak­easy-style Walker Inn {thewalkerinnla.com). you might find beet­steeped vermouth or a strawberry-infused cognac-and-mezcal blend, both made in a centrifuge. At the new Broken Shaker [broken shaker.com) in Chicago, indulge your inner tween with the Cocoa Puff Old-Fashioned. which uses bourbon infused with the chocolaty cereal as its base. Portland keeps it weird at Kachka {kachkapdx.com). where the menu includes whiskey flavored with caraway in the Jewish Rye. The trend isn't limited to the States: In Cuzco. the pisco sour served at the Qespi Bar {jwmarriott.com) is made with your choice of pisco steeped with purple corn or coca leaves. - u.

140 T RAV E L + L EISUR E I D EC EMB ER 2 01 5 0 TO EXPLORE THE ESSENCE OF CUBA THROUGH TH E ISLAND NATION"S

REGIONAL COCKTAILS, GO TO TA NDL.ME/ CUBANDRI NKS.