personal care overview oleon : a natural chemistry
TRANSCRIPT
Personal Care Overview
Oleon: A NATURAL CHEMISTRY
BiotechnologiesSeeds
PesticidesOther services for agriculture Growers
Collect of oilseeds and protein rich seeds
Crushing
Oils
Food
Renewable energies
Renewable chemicals
Oil cake
Animal health and breeding
Animal nutrition
Breeders Transformation and animal productions
Growers and breeders
Oilseeds division
Food and animal sector division
Other Agricultural industries with Sofiprotéol concern
1. Oleon Company
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
OleonOleon is a leading company in Europe for
the production of chemicals based on Natural OilsNatural Oils.
Oleon is a subsidiary of the SofiproteolSofiproteol group, Europe’s reference for vegetable oil with activities in food, feed, biofuels and oleochemistry.
Oleon has production sites in
- Belgium (Ertvelde and Oelegem)- Germany (Emmerich)- France (Compiègne)- Norway (Sandefjord)
In 2009 Oleon started Producing natural esters in Malaysia (Port Klang)
1. Oleon Company
2. Product overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
RawRaw MaterialsMaterialsRapeseed, Sunflower, Palm, Coconut, Soya, PKO, Linseed, Castor…
1. Oleon Company
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
ApplicationsApplicationsSoap, detergents, Personal Care, Lubricants, Food, …
OleochemicalsOleochemicals are esters, fatty acids, glycerol..
1. W/O Properties
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
5. Formulations
•Fatty acids (Radiacid)
•Glycerine, Propylene Glycol
•Radia esters based on PEG,(Poly)glycerol, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, sorbitol, …
•Emulsifiers •Emollients•Stabilizers•Opacifying •Bodying agents•…
PEG
Fatty AcidsFatty alcohols
(Poly)glycerol
Poly
ols
Isostearic
Pentaerythritol
Isoa
myl
Sorb
itol
Radia Esters building blocks
1. W/O Properties
1. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
5. Formulations
•HLB was invented 60 years ago by William C. Griffin
•The letters HLB stand for Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance
•It was intended as a large scale road map to good emulsification performance.
•It was invented for use with NONIONIC surfactants in particular.
Hydrophilic head Lipophilic tail
1. Oleon Company
2. Product overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
• mixing unlike oils together–use surfactants with HLB’s of 1 to 3
• making water-in-oil emulsions–use surfactants with HLB’s of 4 to 6
• wetting powders into oils–use surfactants with HLB’s of 7 to 9
• making self emulsifying oils–use surfactants with HLB’s of 7 to 10
• making oil-in-water emulsions–use surfactant blends with HLB’s of 8 to 16
• making detergent solutions–use surfactants with HLB’s of 13 to 15
• for solubilizing oils ( micro-emulsifying ) into water–use surfactant blends with HLB’s of 13 to 18
2. Oleon Company
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
R7908: Glyceryl Monolaurate 90%
• Our technology has lead to a monoglyceride %> 90%.
• (Co)Emulsifier with HLB of ± 5.0 and super emollient with enhanced skin feel.
• Antibacterial properties; good performance on yeasts,moulds and gram +. Addition of a good chelant (EDTA) can increase the performance on gram -.
• Viscosity increasing in surfactant systems as hydrophobic thickener where combinations with eg CAPB are made.
• Potential of penetration enhancer of active ingredients.
1. Oleon Company
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
1
10
100
1000
10000
MIC
(µ
g/m
l)
GMLButyl ParabenSorbic Acid
Antibacterial Properties of GML
1. W/O Properties
1. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
PEG free & solid O/W emulsifierSelf emulsifying
Radiamuls 2932Radiamuls 2932
•HLB of 10-12
•INCI: GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE
•Gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance
• Synergy with Radia 7145 (Sorbitan Stearate)
•Formation of gel network in water phase•The natural skin moisture barrier is mimicked•Improved moisturizing performance of O/W emulsion•Enhanced stability of emulsion•Skin pleasant rheological profile
1. Oleon Company
2. Product overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Anionic,PEG free & solid O/W emulsifierMulti functional
Radiamuls 2990Radiamuls 2990
• HLB of 16.
•INCI: Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
• Skin conditioning and moisturizing
• white fluffy powder
• light emulsions rich in water
•Can also act as a foam booster in cleansing formulations
1. Oleon Company
2. Product overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Stability, no antioxydant neededSaturated Products
Lower melting point comparedto straight-chain analoguesNo crystallization
Non greasy afterfeel, lipid film more substantive,Soft on the skin and glossy aprearance,
Excellent emolliencyBranched products
Cold emulsion process & easy to handleImportant for heat sensitive products
included in high demanding formulationsLiquid products
Main products derived from oleic acid can be replaced by the corresponding isostearic derivatives without loss of performance.
2. Oleon Company
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Product Range (INCI) Radia
•Isostearic Acid 908 / 909
•Neopentylglycol Diisostearate 7687
•Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate 7179
•Triisostearin 7373
•Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate 7380
•Isopropyl Isostearate 7739
•Sorbitan isostearate 7758
1. Oleon Company
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Radia 7373Radia 7373
Good substantive, rich and non tacky feel emollient
•INCI: Triisostearin
•Functions as dispersant & adhesion promotor of pigments. As solubilizer for active ingredients.
•Can help modifying melting points!
•Special interest combined with light emollient for long lasting spreadability (no migration).
•Comparable to some natural oils but easier to emulsify.
Properties and Benefits
•Lipsticks (long lasting)
•Colour cosmetics
Applications
1. W/O Properties
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Good substantive and rich emollient
Radia 7179Radia 7179
•INCI: Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
•Functions as emollient, dispersant & water repellent.
•Provides high gloss film, resists rub off, reduces drag on application.
•Substantive and cushion feel.
•Good alternative to castor oil.
Properties and Benefits Applications
•Sun care
•Liquid foundations
•lipsticks
•high solid make up
1. Oleon Company
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Radia 7380Radia 7380
Good lubricating and rich film forming emollient
•INCI: Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
•Functions as dispersant for solid ingredients, as potential SPF booster.
•Delivers shine and plasticizer properties in hair care.
•Non tacky sensorial properties.
•Improves skin elasticity.
•Mineral oil replacement
Properties and Benefits
•general skin & hair care
•depilatory creams,
•colour cosmetics,
•sun and baby care,
•shaving formulations
Applications
1. W/O Properties
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Silky and good spreading emollient
Radia 7687Radia 7687
•INCI: Neopentyl Glycol Diisostearate
•Skin Conditioning
•Silky and rich skin feel
Properties and Benefits Applications
•Sun care
•Protective creams
•Shaving creams
1. W/O Properties
2. Product Overview
3. HLB
4. Emulsifiers
5. Isostearic Esters
6. Formulations
Light feel emollient with fast absorbtion and excellent spreadability
Radia 7739Radia 7739
•INCI: Isopropyl Isostearate
•Functions as overall reducer of tackiness, effective solvent and disperser.
•High gloss & low occlusive.
•Fast absorption, imperceptible afterfeel on the skin(Better than IPM), low amount of residue.
Properties and Benefits Applications
•Unique ingredient for many cosmetic preparations
•Face and eyes make up
Spreadability
0
1
2
3
4
5Isopropyl Palmitate
Isostearic Acid
Triisostearin
Isopropyl IsostearateNeopentylglycol Diisostearate
PentaerythritylTetraisostearate
TrimethylolpropaneTriisostearate
Smoothness
012345
Isopropyl Palmitate
Isostearic Acid
Triisostearin
Isopropyl IsostearateNeopentylglycol Diisostearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Absorption speed
0
1
2
3
4
5Isopropyl Palmitate
Isostearic Acid
Triisostearin
Isopropyl IsostearateNepentylglycol Diisostearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Tackiness
0
1
2
3
4
5Isopropyl Palmitate
Isostearic Acid
Triisostearin
Isopropyl IsostearateNeopentylglycol Diisostearate
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate
Radia 7887
Cold Water-in-oil emulsifier
INCI:Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate
HLB 4,2 & Single Emulsifier
Liquid & EO Free & Palm Free
Amber Coloured
1. W/O Properties
2. W/O Applications
3. Famous Examples
4. R7887
5. Formulations
1. W/O Properties
•Skin protection
•Long lasting moisturisation
•Resemblance to the natural skin protective barrier
•Improved spreading and penetration of active ingredients
•Reduced preservative concentration
1. W/O Properties
2. W/O Applications
3. Famous Examples
4. R7887
5. Formulations
2. W/O Applications
•Sun Screen milks, lotions and creams
•Night creams
•Creams & lotions for dry and sensitive skin
•Skin protective baby creams
•Massage milks
1. W/O Properties
2. W/O Applications
3. Famous examples
4. R7887
5. Formulations
4. R7887..
•...is liquid and allows cold production = reduced cost!
•...is based on natural raw materials & is PEG free.
•...has no need for co-emulsifier single emulsifier
•…is fit for high and low internal face
•...provides emulsions with a glossy appearance
•…functions at low levels (≥1%)
1. W/O Properties
2. W/O Applications
3. Famous examples
4. R7887
a. Cold Processb. Emollientsc. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
T (°C)
+/- 80
20
1 2 3
Homogenize4 5
Hot Process
•Solid emulsifier requires temperature (=cost) input.
= Cost
1. W/O Properties
2. W/O Applications
3. Famous examples
4. R7887
a. Cold Processb. Emollientsc. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
T(C°)
20
1 2 3
Homogenize
4 5
•R7887 doesn’t require heating = possible cost reduction!
1. W/O Properties
2. W/O Applications
3. Famous examples
4. R7887
a. Cold Processb. EmollientsC. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
•Potential cost reduction thanks to cold proces.
Hot Proces vs Cold Proces
Weighing and mixing Weighing mixing
Heating Homogenisation
Homogenisation Addition of other raw materials
Cooling & agitation Filling
Time loss during cooling /
Addition of other raw materials
/
Cooling to room tempurature
/
Filling /
Minutes
20
40
60
80
100
120
140
160
1. W/O Properties
2. W/O Applications
3. Famous examples
4. R7887
a. Cold Processb. Emollientsc. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
b. Emollients influence formulation.
• % water => Viscosity Formulation
• Viscosity emollients => Viscosity Formulation
• Homogenisation => Stability (& Viscosity) Formulation
1. W/O Properties
2. W/O Applications
3. Famous examples
4. R7887
a. Cold Processb. Emollientsc. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
c. Single Emulsifier.: Test protocol
Test formulation W/O
Oilphase
Oil 10 or 18 or 30Emulsifier 1 or 3.5
Waterphase
Glycerol 4MgSO4.7H2O 0,7Preservative q.s.Water to 100%
Low external phase = 10%High external phase = 30%Low surfactant = 1%High surfactant = 3.5%
Centrifuge stability
(3x15min @ 4000rpm)
Temperature stability
1week @ 50°C2months@ 40°C3 months@ RT
Viscosity stability ( mPas)
Brookfield 10rpm, 1 minute, LVT spindleAfter 1 dayAfter 3 months
appearance Visual aspect
1. W/O Properties
2. W/O Applications
3. Famous examples
4. R7887
a. Cold Processb. Emollientsc. Single Emulsifier
5. Formulations
c. Single Emulsifier.: Conclusions
•1% emulsifier is stable for MCT and paraffin oils (18%).
• 3,5% emulsfier is stable for MCT, sunflower oil and paraffin oils. Separate esters are being tested.
•Highest viscosity and synergy is obtained by using sunflower oil.
•Internal phases till 82% were achieved.
•Phase •Ingredient •INCI •% w/w
•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •3.6
•Radia 7373 •Triisostearin •0.5
•Radia 7363 •Triolein (= Sunflower oil) •18
•B •Glycerin 4810 •Glycerin •4
•water •Aqua •To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.8
•C •preservative •0.7
Low Cost W/O protective cream HP11-22-2
Viscosity : 121000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 7, rpm 10, 1 min.)Assessment: Rich protective cream, high viscosity, film forming , good spreading
5. Formulations
•Phase •Ingredient •INCI •% w/w
•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •4
•Radia 7208 •Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate •2
•Radia 7732 •Isopropyl Palmitate •11
•Sweet almond oil •2
•Avocado oil •2
•B •Glycerin 4810 •Glycerin •3
•water •Aqua •To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.5
•C •preservative •0.7
W/O soft body cream/Lotion HP03-54-3
•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading
5. Formulations
•Phase •Ingredient •INCI •% w/w
•A •Radia 7887 •Polyglycerol-3 Polyricinoleate & Sorbitan Isostearate •3,6
•Paraffin Oil •15
•Radia 7373 •Triisostearin •0,5
•Radia 7500 •Cetyl Palmitate •2
•B •Glycerin 4810 •Glycerin •3
•water •Aqua •To 100
•Mg.SO4.7H2O •0.5
•C •preservative •0.7
•ZnO •10
Low Cost Protective baby cream HP11-12-1
•Viscosity ,35000 mPa.s (Brookfield RV, spindle 6, rpm 10, 1 min.)
•Assessment: Rich day lotion, nice, soft skinfeel, smooth afterfeel , good spreading
5. Formulations
Isoamyl Esters
Oleon: A NATURAL CHEMISTRY
Isoamyl Esters
Biofermentation Isoamyl Alcohol
Vegetable Fatty Acids
+
=
Isoamyl esters are the natural alternative to high performance dispersing products.
Isoamyl Ester
Fully natural : originates from fusel oils coming from the bio -fermentation of sugar beets
Isoamyl alcohol = isobutyl carbinol =isopentyl alcohol
Vegetable fatty acids : C8/C10, C12, C14, C16, C18 ,C16-C18, cocoate, oleate
Oleon isoamyl esters contain only natural building blocks.
Isoamyl Esters
Radia 7750: Isoamyl Laurate
Sunscreen products & UV filtersVery good solvating power
Colour cosmetics and skin care.Ability to disperse pigments
Baby care and cleansing formulationsExcellent skin compatibility
Improved spreadability. Low viscosity & Quick absorbing
Silicone like sensorial profileExcellent sensorial profile
R7750 Sensorial Properties
During rubbing
010203040
50absorbence
residue
sticky
moisture
After rubbing
R7750IPM Dimethicone
0
20
40
60shiny
absorbence
thickness
silky
Greasysticky
oily
moisture
spreading
Visual evaluation of wetting properties
10 gr TiO2 +
C12-C15 A. B. Castor Oil IA Laurate IA Myristate IA Palmitate IA Oleate
12 ml 5
13 ml 4 5 5
14 ml 2 5 5 4
15 ml 5 5 1 4 4 3
16 ml 4 4 4 4 2
17 ml 3 4 4 4 1
18 ml 3 4 3 3
19 ml 3 4 2 2
20 ml 3 3 2 2
21 ml 3 3 1 1
22 ml 3 2
23 ml 3 2
24 ml 2 1
25 ml 2
26 ml 1
1smooth dispersion
2
Glossy dispersionslighly Granular
3Granular cream
4Granular paste
5Adhesive paste
Isoamyl esters disperse the same dosage of pigment TiO2 with a small amount of ester.
Analytical evaluation of wetting properties
Isoamyl esters provide a steady viscosity with increasing TiO2 concentration. This stability translates into easier handling for end formulations.
Viscosity in function of %TiO2 in dispersion
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
3 4 5 6 7 8 9
gr TiO2
C12-C15 AlkylbenzoateIA laurateIA Palmitate
Visually identified as smooth and viscous dispersion
Imparts a dry lubricating feel in the presence of large amounts of mineral oil or vegetable oils; i.e., “de-oils” mineral oil and “de-greases” vegetable oils.
Is a short chain ester which acts as a superior solubilizer of lipophilic cosmetic raw materials as eg sunscreen agents.
Provides high spreading and quick penetration.
Acts as an anti-tack agent.
Acts as a wetting agent and auxiliary suspending agent for waterinsoluble powdered products.
R7750 Application Info
First choice emollient in natural and conventional cosmetic frame formales
Usage level: 4-80%. Often used as primary oil.
Higher usage levels 30-80% in all kind of body oils & bath oils.
5-20% in both O/W and W/O emulsion creams.
Wet wipes O/W: 0.5-2 %
Natural hair care products: 1-5%
Formulation Data