perbaiki vespa

7/25/2019 perbaiki vespa

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Tools & Parts NeededSocket Set (7-22mm)Spanner Wrench set (7-22mm)Long Handled Screwdrier Set (!"#2#$ Philips and !2 %lat head)Spark Plg Wrench

'isposale Shop Towels can o% *ar *leaner can o% W'-+, good grease solenter .ace /allet /etal Hammer nmer o% pairs o% 0isegripsNeedlenose pliers set o% circlip pliers Large *hisel (see elow) *ltch nt remoer .l1wheel Pller0arios earing etractors and pnches(i% necessar1) good strong Pnchn oil container set o% %eeler gages (a 2, pack does well) cltch compressorSome milk crates to set the ike on gdgeon pin etractor

Undo the oil drain plug screwwith a spanner and allow oil todrain out of the bike. There isnot much oil in the gearbox, soa 10" pieplate should sufficientlyhold the oil. Drain the oil into a! uice bottle using a funneland take it to the nearestrecycling station when it getsfull.


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#emo$e the rear hub dustco$er and pull the cotter pin outof the large castle nut. Using a%%mm socket, loosen the &ubnut. 'f the nut doesn(t come

loose, try a breaker bar orextend your socket using apiece of pipe o$er the handle.

)ith the hub loosened, placethe bike on secure crates forthe rest of the procedure.

*nce the bike is secure,remo$e the hub nut and washerand pull the wheel away fromthe bike. +ou may want to put abag around the brake pads incase oil happens to spill fromthe motor. ake sure to laysome paper or oil absorbentmaterial beneath the motorduring this procedure.


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*pen the unction box anddisconnect all of the wiresinside, while noting colormatching. There is one greenwire that tra$els past the

unction box into the ignition boxbelow.

Disconnect all of the wires tothe ignition box and pull the-park plug cap off of the plug.ake sure to keep track of allthe rubber bits and if they areexcessi$ely worn, replacethem.

Unscrew all of the engine andfan shroud screws and pullthem off of the engine. arefullyunhook any of the electricalcables attached to them.


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Disconnect the rear brake cableby unscrewing the harness onthe actuator arm of the brake.you will likely need a socket todo this.

#emo$e the two 11mm nutsthat retain the gear selectorbox. Use the handlebar to "shift"to th gear and ust a littlebeyond. the selector box willpop off. take care not todamage the gasket beneath thebox otherwise you will ha$e toadd it to your parts list.

#emo$e the carburetor air boxtop by remo$ing the twoarrowed screws.


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#emo$e the air filter byremo$ing the two arrowedscrews.

Unhook the choke cable /thethin wire in the center of thecarb from the choke le$er.Unscrew the gas line union nutusing a 10mm socket. !oosenany hose clamps that may beapplied to hold the line to theunion bano and pull the banoshaped union out of the fuelline. !oosen the two 11mm boltsthat hold the carb to the engine

using a deep socket orextended wrench. Take care notto lose fasteners in thecarburetor. 'f you ha$e aninected model, do not messwith the inector unless it hasstopped working. *ncee$erything is loose, pull thecarburetor body straight up andout of the air box.


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Underneath the carb to air boxgasket is a flat head screw thatholds the carb box to the motor.simply unscrew the screw todetach the air box. *nce that(s

off, pull the inector gear /ifapplicable from the motor. Thegear should be clean and freeof scratches.

#emo$e the cable nipple thatholds the clutch cable on. ullboth the clutch cable and rearbrake cable free from theirrespecti$e slack adusters.

#emo$e the rear shock bolt andput it aside. The engine maydrop a bit, so take precautionsto make sure the bike is stable.


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lamp a pair of 2isegrips to thebolt head of the enginemounting bolt and allow them tocatch on some part of theframe. Using a %%mm socket,

loosen the nut on the mainengine bolt. *nce it is loose,collect the nut and lockwasherand bang the bolt through witha hammer and a drift. 3eprepared to catch the motor if itfalls.

Undo the 14mm 5xhaust boxbolt. collect the lockwasher andbolt and put them aside.

!oosen the exhaust clamp andsee if you can wiggle theexhaust off the exhaust stub. 'fyou can(t budge it /which isoften the case, take a largechisel to the side and le$er it offwith a few sharp blows with ahammer.


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6ow remo$e the cylinder head.!oosen all the bolts a 17 turn ata time in the following order.The head is 8uit soft metal andeasy to warp, so take your time

and loosen the nuts properly.Unscrew the sparkplug onceyou(re done getting the cylindernuts and washers off. 9inally,ull the head off.

6ext, pull the cylinder off of thestuds and place it aside. Use asmear of oil on the cylinder wallto prohibit rust. gently pry thealloy seal off of the enginecase.

#emo$e the two piston circlipsand put them aside.


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Dri$e the gudgeon pin throughthe piston using a clean :7;"socket extension or a gudgeonpin extractor tool. #emo$e thepiston and the small end

bearing. note< you can see apiston ring locator pin in thecenter of the ring gap.

ush the piston rings apart withyour thumbs and push themo$er top of the crown. They willcome off. 'nspect the piston forscuff marks and make sure thepin locators are in position.

&ere are most of the parts ofthe piston assembly. The onlything not show in the picture isthe small end caged bearing.6ote how scratched up thepiston skirt is. 't would be wiseto replace a piston that is thatscuffed up. 'f your piston lookslike this, you will ha$e too$ersi=e your cylinder and usea new o$ersi=ed piston.


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!et us now mo$e to the clutch.To get at the clutch you willneed to remo$e the clutchco$er. There are : 10mm boltsaround the clutch co$er and

another large 14mm bolt to theright. !ea$e the 14mm boltalone for now, as it holds in partof the gearing.

This is a shot of the inside ofthe clutch co$er. this assemblyconsists of a few seals and anarm that puts pressure on theclutch. The part to watch for isthe little brass push out bearingin the center of the co$erassembly. 't can drop out andinto the motor.

To remo$e the clutch, you mustfirst take off the pressure plate.There is a little piece of wireholding in the plate. >ll youha$e to do is push the wiretowards the center with ascrewdri$er and the plate willrelase. 6525# 356D T&5)'#5?


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Underneath the pressure plateyou(ll find the nut that holds theclutch onto the crank. +ou(llha$e to pry back the little teethon the lockwasher in order to

loosen the clutch.

This is a clutch nut remo$altool, a speciali=ed tool for2espas. +ou need to buy thistool in order to remo$e theclutch. There are other ways ofgetting it off, but we couldn(t getthem to work.

+ou will also need a clutchholding tool. This is the way todo it right. it sa$es a lot of griefo$er doing it other ways andpreser$es the clutch nut teethmuch better. 'f you are hard upfor time, put a round toolthrough the small end of theconnecting rod. with theapparatus in place, undo theclutch center nut.


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*ften the clutch will be looseenough so it will come off whenit is le$ered with twoscrewdri$ers. The crankshaft isnot tapered so it shouldn(t be a

wrestling match. &owe$er, thewoodruff keys sometimes getsheared, making it extremelydifficult to remo$e 'f you can(tget it out now we(ll deal with itlater in the process. *therwisepull it out and remo$e thewoodruff key.

3efore unscrewing the nut onthe flywheel, you will ha$e tolock the flywheel. This is thehard part to do right. @enerally 'lock the crankshaft by sticking around tool through the smallend of the conrod. +ou couldalso put a tool between theflywheel fins or buy a rareflywheel holder tool. *nce it(slocked, pull the dust co$er from

the flywheel and unscrew thenut underneath.

Take the special flywheel pullingtool and thread it about A or Bgood turns into the flywheel.Then, using two wrenches,slowly turn the center of the tooltighter and hold the outside ofthe tool steady. 5$entually theflywheel will release from thecrank and pull away.


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Underneath the flywheel is thestator, the electrical generatorfor your bike. ake suree$erything is nice and clean. 'fyou see ratty wires or anything

like that, it might be a good ideato replace them. Ceep this partof the motor super clean.#emo$e the woodruff key fromthe crank taper.

ark your default timing pointby hitting a flat headscrewdri$er on the case andstator. areful about using feltmarkers as gasoline will eraseyour timing mark and you(llha$e to retime the engine.

Undo the three hilips headscrews that hold the stator plateto the motor. The stator will thendangle free.


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ull the stator free of the motorand place it somewhere safe. ifit needs electrical repairs orwire replacement, do that whileyou wait for new parts.


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#emo$e the arrowed bolts.)e(re about to crack the cases.

#emo$e the arrowed bolts.an(t you feel the excitementE?

Undo the kickstart le$er.


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Take a rubber hammer andwhack the case a few timeswhile holding the motor flywheelside down. The cases will ustpeel right apart.

This is the flywheel side of thecase. ollect the kickstart gearand the kickstart spring /they(resitting on the kickstart gear inthe picture.

ut the flywheel side case asidefor now and mo$e to the gears.heck the gearbox float with afeeler gauge. -tick another setof feeler gauges under theopposite side of themeasurement point to balancethe reading. the float should be0.1A0.0mm /0.A0mm is theextreme limit. 'f it goes beyondthat, you ha$e to buy a biggergearbox shim. Use your math toget the float down to about0.:0mm float and o$ersi=eaccordingly.


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#emo$e the gear retainercirclip.

This is the gearbox shim. 'f youfound your float measurementswere out of spec, this is the partyou will ha$e to o$ersi=e. Thispart hold the gears tighttogether so they cant rock onthe output shaft. 'f you lea$e abad condition, you may causerapid wear to your gearbox.

#emo$e the gears one by oneand mark the side facing outwith a grease pencil for easyreassembly. !ook for extremewear such as this on thenotches. > gear this badlychipped should be replaced,because it will cause 8uick wearon the shift cross.


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)ith all the gears off, pull theplunger to the extreme outeredge. This part is re$ersethreaded, so turn the flattenedpart of the plunger with a 1:

mm wrench in a clockwisemotion /opposite to normal toloosen it. 5xtract the plungerand its spacer washer.

5xtract the plunger and itsspacer washer.

Turn the cruciform on its sideand remo$e it from the axlehousing.


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6ow go to the hub side of thecase and remo$e the hub seal.

#emo$e the circlipunderneath.

#emo$e both brake clips byhand or with a pair of pliers.They tend to go flying, so hold arag o$er top of them.


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!e$er the brake shoes off usinga wrench and operating thebrake cam. The brakes wille$entually slide off the camsand collapse.

Unscrew the philips headscrews and remo$e the backingplate.

ollect the backing plate.Underneath the plate are a few*#ing style buffers, remo$ethose as well.


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6ow back to the clutch wherewe left off earlier. )ith theflywheel side of the caseremo$ed, you can get thecrankshaft and the clutch out in

a few taps of the hammer. ut ametal punch in the hole on thecrank arm and use a metalhammer to tap it out. #esistgoing mad with the hammer youdon(t want to warp the crank.+ou(ll usually be able to hearthe relief of resistance on thebearing race as you hit it. 'fyou(re really new at working onmotors, a crank puller might bea better bet.

This is the crankshaft. There isa clutch side woodruff key toremo$e. Two $ery, $eryimportant parts will usually fallout. *ne is the clutch spacer,the other is the clutch side seal.always replace this seal when

going this far into the engine.The clutch spacer goesbetween the clutch and theclutch side bearing. *n inectedmotors, the spacer will ha$egearing on it.

&ere(s the reason we did thisproect in the first place. This isan excellent example of a pretty

catastrophic clutch side sealfailure. 't appears the clutchside seal had taken a ride onthe crank and bashed itself topieces. )e should ha$e knownby the waterlike oil that cameout of the motor. @as in the oilis a sure sign of a blown clutchside seal.


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ompress the clutch bys8uee=ing the top plate and thedri$e gear. )e used a woodclamp to do our bidding, but ascrew and a few large washers

is e8ually effecti$e. )hile theclutch is compressed, remo$ethe circlip by hand /you can seethe circlip sticking out of theclutch housing ust below thedri$e gear in the picture.

>nother $iew of that peskycirclip.

#elease the pressure of thecompressor and all the plateswill push out of the clutch body.ull off all of the plates andmemori=e the order. >lwaysreplace the friction and metalplates during a rebuild.


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if you ha$e gouges, rust, orloose ri$ets in your dri$e gear, itis best to replace the part.

Under the dri$e gear is a brassbushing and all of the springsand spring caps. ollect themall and store them. 'f the capsand springs look okay, they maybe reused. The brass bushingshould always be replaced.

@o back to the motor, now, andloosen the tabbed washerholding on the 14mm nut. Thenundo the nut with a socketwrench.


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&ere are the parts you(ll get. >special weird ass washer/s8uare washer, a tabbedwasher and a 14mm nut. '($ealso included a picture of that

elusi$e clutch spacer /bottomcenter

9lip the motor o$er carefullyand slowly. ull the layshaft alittle and see if you can get it tobudge. 'f not, use a punch andgently drift it out a little. Thereason for caution is there(s abunch of uncaged needle rollersabout to fall out.

>nd here they are? Thereshould be %1 of them /one ishiding in the picture. They areusually reusable, but on a highmileage engine, it might be agood measure ust to toss (emout and get some more.


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6ow you can ust pull thelayshaft /primary7spring gearout at your leisure. This is anexample of a $ery nice layshaft.6o $isible wear and the ri$ets

are tight.

ull the plastic oil wiper/s fromthe case.

ull the kickstart buffers fromthe case.


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ush the kickstart spring backwith a screwdri$er, and pry it upand o$er the lip. The spring hasa bit of tension, but it(s notgoing anywhere. *nce the

pressure is relie$ed and thespring is off of the kickstartcrown, the le$er shaft will pullright out.

&ere(s the result.

>ccording to this picture thecrank is still installed.


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> ob well done. -ee thosebearings under thereE Unlessthey(re definitely fuct, like if therace is broken or half the rollersare missing, it(s kind of a bear

to get out, so lea$e it alone.3earings can go in the industrialparts cleaner, too.

ick up the clutch co$er. Undothis spring, it(s under a bit oftension, so watch your fingers.

The spring hold the actuatorarm in place as well as the pushout actuator. The little brassbearing should ha$e no cuts orpitting in it /other than the oilgap that is cut through themiddle, otherwise it(s fit for thegarbage.


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&ere is the actuator arm in full.That little tiny *ring should bereplaced e$ery time. 't is thecause of superhappyfun oilleaks. > little *ring grease will

immensely increase itslifespan.

Unscrew the clutch co$erbreather and spray it with carbcleaner. ake sure there is apath for air to get through asthis breather helps to prolongengine seal life. 't relie$es thepressure of the gear box as themotor heats up. 'f you can(t unblock it, buy a ne

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