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Paul Poiret: King of Paul Poiret: King of Fashion (1879 Fashion (1879 -- 1944)1944)

““It is neither by restoring life to the It is neither by restoring life to the color scheme, nor by launching color scheme, nor by launching new styles that I rendered the new styles that I rendered the

greatest to my epoch.”greatest to my epoch.”

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Paul PoiretPaul Poiret

““It was in my inspiration It was in my inspiration of artists, in my of artists, in my dressing of theatrical dressing of theatrical pieces, in my pieces, in my assimilating and assimilating and response to new response to new ideas, that I served ideas, that I served the public of my day.”the public of my day.”

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““He must love life, love the arts, and love He must love life, love the arts, and love women. He must have an unquenchable women. He must have an unquenchable

thirst for beauty and selfthirst for beauty and self--realization.”realization.”

Born April 8Born April 8thth 1879, in Paris1879, in ParisParents: owned shop Parents: owned shop

making woolen clothmaking woolen clothDad forced him to work as Dad forced him to work as

an errand boy for an errand boy for umbrella maker:umbrella maker:

Jacques Doucet, from Jacques Doucet, from whom he learned whom he learned dressmaker crafts, and a dressmaker crafts, and a sophisticated lifestylesophisticated lifestyle

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Paul PoiretPaul Poiret

Used wooden dolls Used wooden dolls from his sisters to from his sisters to design dressesdesign dresses1901 employed by 1901 employed by WorthWorthMadame Poiret gives Madame Poiret gives him 50,000 francshim 50,000 francs11stst Fashion salon in Fashion salon in 19031903

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Paul PoiretPaul PoiretPaul thought Paul thought there was there was nothing more nothing more important than important than external external appearance.appearance.

“I might have “I might have forgotten to forgotten to wash my neck wash my neck now and then, now and then, but I changed but I changed my white collar my white collar every day.”every day.”

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Paul PoiretPaul PoiretBecame Became wellwell--known, known, everybody everybody in Paris in Paris attended attended his partieshis partiesMarried Married Denise Denise TouletTouletLater had Later had five five childrenchildren

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Paul PoiretPaul Poiret

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Contributions to fashionContributions to fashionHobble skirtHobble skirt--1920 (woman 1920 (woman didn’t follow)didn’t follow)4 ways of pantaloon gown4 ways of pantaloon gown--19111911Oriental mode/ Oriental mode/ orientalismorientalismTurbans with feathersTurbans with feathersPrints (designed by real artist)Prints (designed by real artist)Mantle wraps Mantle wraps Traveling, theater, and daytime Traveling, theater, and daytime coatscoatsEvening gowns, afternoon & Evening gowns, afternoon & daytime dressesdaytime dressesTheater costumes (Josephine Theater costumes (Josephine Baker)Baker)Concocted vibrant huesConcocted vibrant hues

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Contributions to fashionContributions to fashion

Minaret skirts Minaret skirts KimonoKimono--sleeved tunicssleeved tunicsExotic embroideryExotic embroideryBarbaric jewelryBarbaric jewelryEye makeEye make--upupFitted tube Fitted tube Dress LA VogueDress LA VogueReplaced the corset with Replaced the corset with elastic braselastic brasIllusion of bare legs Illusion of bare legs

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ROSINEROSINE

11stst couturier with couturier with perfume lineperfume lineRosineRosine 1922 1922 (daughter who died)(daughter who died)Fans (advertising)Fans (advertising)

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MARTINEMARTINESchool for crafts School for crafts decorative artsdecorative artsMartine 1911Martine 1911Interior designsInterior designs--wallpaper, tables, wallpaper, tables, vases, dressers, etcvases, dressers, etcLeft his aesthetic mark Left his aesthetic mark on everything around on everything around him and on everything him and on everything he could sell, from he could sell, from accessories to interior accessories to interior design design

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History continued…..History continued…..Syndicated Defense Syndicated Defense de la Grande Couture de la Grande Couture FrancaiseFrancaise11stst real designer of real designer of the 20the 20thth centurycenturyCalled up to battle Called up to battle front for 4 yearsfront for 4 yearsReturned to Paris for Returned to Paris for fall collection, but fall collection, but RosineRosine died so he died so he abandoned the idea abandoned the idea

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Paul PoiretPaul PoiretAfter WWI, Belle Époque ends

He falls out of fashion, failing to keep up with the times

Chanel and the roaring 20s usher in a new look

Poiret becomes a theater set designer, marginally employed and dies virtually penniless in 1944

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Influences/ AccomplishmentsInfluences/ AccomplishmentsCorsetlessCorsetless “liberated” women“liberated” womenOriental and Middle Eastern ethnic motifs and Oriental and Middle Eastern ethnic motifs and silhouettessilhouettesLampshade skirtsLampshade skirtsA new genre of printmakingA new genre of printmakingJournal des Dames et des ModesJournal des Dames et des ModesPrinted designs straight onto the finest silk (note Versace Printed designs straight onto the finest silk (note Versace on Thursday)on Thursday)11stst of the “ fashion celebrities”of the “ fashion celebrities”Everything he touched turned to headlinesEverything he touched turned to headlines“freed the breast” and shackled the legs“freed the breast” and shackled the legsAdvocated the adoption of the brassiereAdvocated the adoption of the brassiere

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Paul PoiretPaul Poiret

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