patterns pants fitting cheatsheet

5/25/2018 Patterns Pants Fitting Cheatsheet

1/13

Fitting pants is a bit tricky, lets face it.

There are a lot of differences among women in the areas between waist and ankles. Youve got hips and

waists of different sizes, butts of various shapes, legs of all different lengths, thighs that bulge in different

ways, calves that may or may not be muscular. And then there are the differences in posture!

With all these factors, no wonder pants fitting seems so mystifying. And no wonder its so hard for most of

us to find a good pair of RTW pants that fit.

I wanted to find a way to distill most of the pants adjustments you might need down into an easy to scan

format. The idea is that you take a look at the symptoms youre experiencing with your muslin, then find

them on the chart to see which adjustments might help you solve them.

Waist and BellySymptoms Potential Issue Adjustments

Tight diagonal smile wrinkles

radiating from the crotch

Larger waist Let out the waistband, add width at

the side seam, grading down toward

the hipline. (see Large or Small Waist

50The Colette Patterns Pants Fitting CheatsheetPosted by Sarai | Leave a Comment

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Waistband feels too tight Adjustments)

Drooping frown wrinkles


Waistband feels too loose

Smaller waist Take the waistband in, remove width

at the side seam, grading down

toward the hips. (see Large or Small

Waist Adjustments)

Tight diagonal wrinkles around

the lower belly

Feels tight over the belly

Full lower belly Add fullness around the lower belly

(see Full or Flat Belly Adjustments)

Excess vertical folds of fabric

around the lower belly

Flat lower belly Remove fullness at the lower belly

(see Full or Flat Belly Adjustments)

Hips and CrotchSymptoms Potential Issue Adjustments

Tight diagonal smile wrinkle


Pants feel like theyre being

tugged downward at the crotch

Longer torso Lengthen the front and back above

the crotch (see Lengthen or Shorten

the Torso)

Drooping frown wrinkles


Shorter torso Shorten the front and back above the

crotch (see Lengthen or Shorten the

Torso)

Tight wrinkles forming around

the hips

Wide hips Add width at the side seams (see

Wide or Narrow Hip Adjustment)

Excess fabric hanging verticallyaround the hips

Narrow hips Remove width at the side seams (seeWide or Narrow Hip Adjustment)

Back and ButtSymptoms Potential Issue Adjustments

Excess fabric pooling

horizontally above your butt

Pants feel tight across butt

Diagonal smile wrinklesradiating from crotch

Swayback Swayback adjustment (see Swayback

Adjustment)

Excess fabric pooling

horizontally above your butt

High butt Shorten the back darts

Excess fabric pooling under your

butt

Side seams seem to be bowing

Swayfront Swayfront adjustment


3/13


butt

Low butt Lower the crotch curve in the back,

for a deeper curve.


butt

Excess fabric around the fullest

part of your butt

Flat butt Flat butt adjustment (see Full or Flat

Butt Adjustment

)

Tight diagonal wrinkles radiatingfrom the fullest part of your butt

Feels tight across the butt

Back waist is pulling down

Full butt Full butt adjustment (see Full or FlatButt Adjustment)

LegsSymptoms Potential Issue Adjustments

Pants too long or short Longer or shorter

legs

Lengthen or shorten, either above

the knee or at the hem.

Diagonal wrinkles around the

knee, coming out from the side

seams

Knock knees Add length at the inseam, remove

length at the side seam.

Diagonal wrinkles around the

knee, coming from the inseam.

Bow legged Add length at the side seam, remove

length at the inseam.

Tight horizontal wrinkles at the

upper thigh

Wrinkles forming from the

crotch to the side seam at the

thigh

Excess fabric pooling under the

butt

Large outer thigh

area

Let out the side seams at the thigh

Feels tight across the upper thigh

Wrinkles at the inner thigh, near

the crotch

Large quadriceps

(front thigh muscles)

Add width at the inseam of the pants

front, close to the crotch and tapering

down toward the knee.

Tight wrinkles coming from the

inseam, near the crotch

Large inner thighs Add width at the inseam of the pants

front, close to the crotch and tapering

down toward the knee.

Excess fabric hanging vertically

around the inner thighs

Small inner thighs Remove width at the inseam of the

pants front, close to the crotch and

tapering down toward the knee.

Tight wrinkles forming around

the calf.

Large calves Add width to the pants back, down

the center back of your leg. (see Large

Calves Adjustment)


4/13

333

Some pants fitting

basics

First Look: Colette

Patterns Fall 2011

Fall patterns are

shipping and Clover

Sewalong in October!

Welcome to the Clover

Sewalong!

Tight horizontal wrinkles around

the whole leg

Large legs Add width at the center of the pants

front, and the center of the pants

back (see Large or Thin Leg

Adjustments)

Excess fabric hanging vertically

all down the leg

Thin legs Remove width at the center of the

pants front, and the center of the

pants back (see Large or Thin Leg

Adjustments)

Citations:

Fitting and Pattern Alteration by Elizabeth G. Leichty, Della Poterburg-Steineckert, Judith A. Rasband

(A fantastic, comprehensive fitting book that helped tremendously with the research for this post), Pants

For Real People by Pati Palmer and Marti Alto, The Perfect Fit

Some related posts you may be interested in:

Some pants fitting basics: Plenty of info and links on some of the basics of pants fitting.

Welcome to the Clover Sewalong: This cheatsheet is part of our Clover Sewalong! Start with this

post to find out more.

Choosing the right fabric for Clover:How to pick out fabric for the Clover pants, with some ideas.

File Under: Sewalongs | Tutorials, Tips, & Tricks

You may also like:

On Oct 6th, eunnysaid: | whitcombstreet.tumblr.com

omg. saved immediately.

On Oct 6th, Slvisaid: | solvi.se | @delfinelise

This is fantastic! Thank you so much. Will come in handy, especially when sewing for others!

:-)


5/13

On Oct 6th, Alisonsaid:

This is AMAZING. Thanks so much for your work compiling it and posting it!!

I have a question about the full/flat lower belly adjustments, where your suggestion is to

add/remove fullness at the lower belly. How would you go about doing this? Im picturing

slashing from the CF to the side seam, then spreading/overlapping the desired amount. I *think* this would

have the effect of adding/removing a horizontal wedge, widest at the CF and tapering to nothing at the side

seam. Would this work, or would that mess up lengths of other seams/grainlines/ etc?

On Oct 7th, Saraisaid: | colettepatterns.com | @saraicat

Yes, you want to do that, but *also* add/remove width at the CF, tapering up from the

crotch. That way, youre not just changing the length, but changing the fullness over the

belly.

However, you might notice that adding width at the CF changes the size of the waist seam, right?

So on most pants, what you want to do is take that change and move it to the front dart. So if you added a

1/2!to the width (just an example), make the dart 1/2!bigger.

These pants happen to not have a front dart. You have two choices here. You can either add a front dart, or

you could remove the width at the CF seam, tapering down toward the belly.

This is sounding a bit complicated all written out. I will see if I can do a tutorial if I ha ve time!

On Oct 7th, lsaspaceysaid: | lifeisexamined.blogspot.com

Yes, please? Ill be needing to add a bit of fullness or a PBA (pot belly adjustment) to my

Clovers too!

On Oct 7th, Alisonsaid:

Thanks so much!! This makes sense (at least picturing it in my head), so I will try it and

see! Again: many many thanks for this chart!

On Oct 6th, Marlisesaid: | pomme-et-asperge.blogspot.com

This is great, thank you for putting this together! I gave up sewing pants because I wasnt

patient enough to fix all the fitting issues I had. But I might give it another try Btw, I love

your blog!

On Oct 6th, Rebeccasaid:

AWESOME! This is great!

On Oct 6th, Seraphinalinasaid: | seraphinalina.blogspot.com

Thats awesome, what a great resource. Thanks for compiling that, it wil l be great to see all the tutorials.


6/13

On Oct 6th, Melaniesaid:

Wow this is an amazing reference! Thanks for sharing this. But just one question: what

measurement is best for choosing which size to start with? I know to use my high bust for tops

because the shoulders are most difficult to fit. For pants, should it be the widest part so other

things could be taken in? Or are there other factors to consider like a large difference between

waist and hips or many large thighs? ( If the answer to this is take a class fair enough. You must have put

in an awful lot of work on this post and it seems greedy to ask for more. )

On Oct 6th, lsaspaceysaid: | lifeisexamined.blogspot.com

I think the common wisdom is to pick a s ize that matches the widest part, usually the hips

or the booty because the waist can be adjusted.


I agree with Lisas answer you usually want to go by the hip measurement.

On Oct 6th, knitmosaid: | portraitofawannabedomesticgoddess.blogspot.com | @knitmo

I am so glad to see this distilled so simply. I cant wait to actually get my muslin made and

really identify what I need to do.

On Oct 6th, Robinsaid:

OMG. I love you. Thank you SO MUCH for posting this!! What a fantastic resource.

I always have a problem with just pajama and yoga pants I make pulling down a t the back

waist, and I love that you told me I need a FBA and that youre going to tell me how to do it. If I

can have success with these easy type pants, then Ill be so much more likely to take on a more challenging

pair of real pants, like the Clover pants. :-)


I hear you, I have the same fitting issue a lot of the time, and in ready to wear too.

On Oct 6th, Debisaid: | fashionsfromthepast.blogspot.com

Saraiyou are a sewing goddess!!! Thank you for this post!


7/13

On Oct 6th, Wendysaid:

This looks completely fantastic!

I too would appreciate more information on the full lower tummy adjustment my cherubs

have not left my tummy in anything resembling its former glory?!


Check out my comment to Allison above!

On Oct 6th, Gingersaid:

Thank you so much for the awesome chart. Im saving it, I know I will use it again and again.

On Oct 7th, Katiesaid:

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU for this! I cant wait to see the tutorial for a larger waist

adjustment. I often have this problem and I cant find many tutorials online for it! I wont be

working on the Clover until my workload gets lighter, but Im glad you will be posting these

tutorials on here.

I do have a question for you: when cutting out the pattern for the pants, what measurement should I go with?

I was told its the hip measurement, but the waist measurement is significantly smaller than my actual waist

(I have almost a rectangular shape with a gentle waist curve). Should I go with my waist measurement and

then adjust the hips?


Id still go with the hip measurement. Its just a lot easier to adjust the size of the waist than

it is to fiddle with the hip area.

If you have a really significant difference, just cut two sizes to start with when making your

muslin! For example, if you have a size 8 hip and size 12 waist, cut most of the pattern in an 8, but grade

the line toward the size 12 at the wa ist. Then do your muslin and see how that works.

On Oct 7th, Mandysaid:

Thanks so much for this extremely useful cha rt. I have saved it because I know I shall need to

refer to it.

What a lovely idea, to put it all together in a chart like this. I does make it so easy to use as a

reference.

Like Katie, I often ha ve a problem deciding which s ize to go for in any new pattern I am trying for the first

time. Is there any advice on choosing the best size? In the past I have wasted time making muslins only to

decide I ought to have chosen a different size to start with.



8/13

Generally, you want to choose size based on the most difficult areas to fit. For bodices/dresses/blouses,

this is the bust and shoulders. For skirts and pants, its usually the hips.

Its a good idea to also look at the finished garment measurements to see how much ease is

included. The big 4 pattern companies include a lot of extra ease.

On Oct 7th, eghbravosaid:

Hi, Im new to your site and Im glad I joined! This is so helpful and the most conciseexplanation of how to address my getting-pants-to-fit dilema. I dont have problems making

pants for myself because Ive made enough mistakes on my own pants to know where my own

pattern-fitting nuances arebut this is so handy when it comes to making pants for other

people (I dont have to cringe at the idea anymore). I cant wait for the tutorials!

On Oct 8th, meagansaid:

Thankyou Sarai. I have dwelling over making some capri pants as the last pair just didnt fit

right. now to make the corrections to the pattern and try again. Thankyou, than you

On Oct 8th, Janesaid:

No matter how many times I measure myself I come out at a 27!waist and a 38!hip:

supposedly a Colette size 6. However, Ive made my muslin and its far too small, not even

close!

The problem seems to be that the pattern tapers inwards at the point where my hips are still at

their widest. The trousers are definitely a 38 just above the crotch but a bit higher they reduce to a 36 and at

that point I am still a 38. Im going to need at least an extra couple of inches just to get the zip to close. I also

feel the trousers sit very low and might be more flattering if they come up a bit higher.

Do you think I should try a muslin in an 8 or a 10 or is there some way I can adjust the rise to bring it up

higher?


Jane, Im going to be posting tutorials all next week, but from what youve said it sounds

like you might need to lengthen the torso. They definitely shouldnt feel like they are sitting

too low, but should be just below the wa ist.

Personally, I have a short torso (though Im an average height for my size) and they come up too *high*

on me without adjustment. Im just mentioning that because I think its a good illustration of how much

bodies can vary and why fitting is so important!

On Oct 8th, Janesaid:

Thank you Sarai. Im looking forward to seeing the tutorials and getting on to the next

steps!

On Oct 8th, Emily-Janesaid:

This is fantastic, Sarai! Thanks for putting it together for us all.


9/13

I have a question, though, that I think isnt addressed in your cheat sheet. Ill give you a little

background first, in case it helps:

RTW pants almost never fit me unless I really get lucky with the curvy fit, because I have a bit

of a swayback and my hips (40!) are a bigger standard size than my waist (28!). The back waist nearly

always gaps, and sometimes the sideseams arent straight. These things I can fix when Im sewing my own

pants, and sometimes correct in RTW pants.

But, the fit issue that just kills me and that Ive never been able to reliably fix with pants Ive made for myself

is that the hem of the pants hang funny. They stay close to the leg in the front, over my foot, but stick out

awkwardly in the back, over my heel. Ive seen this on lots of other women who are generously built throughthe hip and butt, and it happens more with short pants, a nd pants with a flared leg.

But seriously, it would be nice to be able to make a pair of capris or ankle length pants (l ike Clover!) and

know I was going to avoid this pitfall. Do you have any suggestions?


Its really hard to diagnose a problem like this, but it sounds like it might be a symptom of

the swayback issue. The swayback posture can pull the fabric of the pants toward the back

like youre describing.

On Oct 10th, Chloe Mowersaid: | @madebymissmower

Sarai you have an amazing way of explaining pattern adjustments. Do you do master classes

or workshops?

Thanks, Chloe


Maybe someday! I dont have much time for teaching at the moment, but its a great idea.

On Oct 13th, Pamelasaid:

Cannot wait for the flat butt tutorial I do avoid making pants for this very reason!

On Oct 13th, EasilyAmewsedsaid:

Im curious what a SWAY FRONT is in relation to the excess fabric below the buttocks? Is

this another way of describing a backward hip tilt? My DD has this issue and Id really like to

see your take on altering for it if its not simply doing SWAY BACK alt in reverse.

So far all your alts are very clear and quite helpful.

On Oct 13th, becksnycsaid:

I like your IDEA of trying to pair Symptoms with Issues and Adjustments. Its a great

concept! Kudos for tackling it!

However, even with 35 years altering RTW & sewing custom clothing, I cannot reconcile some


10/13

On Oct 15th, this post was linked from:

Sewing schadenfreude enjoy my Clover conundrum threadsquare

[... ] expected with my hip:waist ratio. There were slight frowning wrinkles in the crotch. The Colette cheat

sheet says I have a smaller waist, so I made this adjustment, 1!total. Furthermore, knowing that I [...]

On Oct 22nd, this post was linked from:

Pattern pick: Clover | Fresa Handmade

[... ] Its been awhile since Ive tried and Ive learned a lot since then. Besides, the Coletterie has had a series of

pants fitting tutorials that will help me immensely if I need to make major [... ]

of your symptoms with the suggested adjustments. For example, a large waist does not necessarily create

smile wrinkles radiating from the crotch. It depends on where the person carries their weight. Ive seen many

a customer with a large waist (not tummy) and a flat seat or short rise (crotch depth), in which case the

wrinkles, if any, run across and usually just above the fullest part of the seat.

May I suggest that, a picture is worth a thousand words, so a photo in the first column would help us

visualize the fitting issues you describe.

Pants are complicated due to their construction and the tremendous variety in the human form. Hats off to

your efforts to break the adjustments down!

Becks


Yes, of course this is by necessity a simplification. If someone has a combination of different

fit issues, i t can manifest in a completely different way. However, I think people need at

least a place to start.

Your photo suggestion is great! It sounds like a great concept for a fitting book rather than a blog post,

perhaps.

On Dec 2nd, Sunnysaid:

Oh my goshis that the premise of your second book? ::fingers crossed::

On Oct 13th, Lindasaid:

Concerning the waist, how do you address if the slacks pull down in the middle back due to

more room needed for the butt?

On Oct 18th, Emsaid:

Just want to express thanks for the wonderful hints and tutorials! Really helpful.


11/13

On Nov 1st, this post was linked from:

In Which I Show the World My Bum how she flowers

[... ] to my eyeballs and Coletteries Pants Fitting Cheat Sheet, my belly and butt are too big, a nd maybe also

my legs. Ive always considered myself a [.. .]

On Nov 9th, this post was linked from:

Clover: Fitting | Fresa Handmade

[... ] They fit surprisingly well, but there are a few w rinkles here and there. I have been pondering the Colette

Patterns fitting cheat sheet and trying to figure out which issues apply to me, based on the photos I took of my

first [...]

On Jan 15th, this post was linked from:

Colette Patterns Clover trousersScruffy Badger Time

[.. .] had my fabric (4/ m from Birmingham Rag Market) but nothing more expendable. All the wonderful

fitting fixes prepared by the sewalong also convinced me that I was going to have to get heavily involved in

issues, [... ]

On Jan 22nd, this post was linked from:

A call for testers! (not mine) Un Peu de Couture

[... ] one ca lled The Seam method of pattern alteration, and also had a look at the series on the Clover pattern

sewalong by Colette [... ]

On Nov 18th, Gingersaid: | summersdesigns.blogspot.com

I posted a pic and link to one of your tutorials. I hope you dont mind, but let me know if you

want me to remove it and I will do it right away. Thank you for this chart, it is great!

On Jan 2nd, Nancysaid:

Where can I find the swayfront adjustment?

On Jan 2nd, EasilyAmewsedsaid:

I also had this question about the swayfront. Ive not heard the term before so does it mean

using the front pattern alt shown for the swayback adjustment or something entirely different?

I noted the term is not linked so it makes me think the latter.

Thanks for any clarification.

On Apr 2nd, Kathi ssaid:

Wow! I am printing this out and laminating it for my sewing room! This is the first tutorial

that addresses my leg issues.


12/13

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On Apr 16th, mary j.said:

This is a great list. I use Palmer and Pletch, and will put this in my alteration book

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13/13

patterns pants fitting cheatsheet

Documents

fitting pants

wonder pants fitting

pants adjustments

lower bellyflat lower

lower bellysee

bellyfull lower belly

yourbuttexcess fabric

dartsexcess fabric pooling