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Parts of a UkuleleBodyNeck

Parts of a UkuleleFingerboard or FretboardHeadstockNut

Parts of a UkuleleTunersBetter known as Tuning Machines or Machines for short

Tuners

Parts of a UkuleleBridgeSaddle

Parts of a UkuleleFrets

Stringing a UkeTying at the bridgeSlotted BridgeClassical Bridge

Tying at the tuning machinesPost type machinesBarrel type machines

Winding the string

Slotted Bridge

Typical Slotted BridgeOne end of the string is knotted and slipped into slot in the bridgeKnots keep the string from pulling through the bridgeTwo types of knots commonly usedOverhand knotFigure Eight

Overhand knotFigure Eight

Classical Bridge

OverUnderOver

Behind Back of BridgeTail from this stringTucks into loopof this string

String winds around post toward centre of headstockTurn machine this wayTurn machine this way

Not Like This!

TowardCentre

OverTowardCentre

Under

Over

Double-Locking Knot

Winding starts hereAnd works DOWN the post

String forms downward angle at nut

Little or no angle at nutMay cause string to buzz in nut

Two or three winds on the post

UnderUnder

More windings = more stretchingFewer winds = less stretching, stays in tune better

More winds may allow you to re-use string if it breaks at the bridgeMore vs Fewer Windings

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Ukulele enthusiast brought me back after many years away from instrument

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Todays topic: Stringing a Ukulele

Before we begin, quickly review the parts of a ukulele so we can talk about it properly and not get confused by terms

Dont mean to insult anyones intelligence, I found that its always better when we can communicate clearly. It can be a bit difficult when someone says the string makes a buzzing sound where it goes over the white thing.We should refer to the tuners as Tuning Machines, or machines for short

These are NOT Tuners!THESE are TunersThe saddle is part of the bridge

Many times I have heard the saddle called the nut and vice-versa.

Heres how to remember. If you are crazy, which you must be to play ukulele, , you are a little NUTS in the HEAD(the nuts in the head-stock)Heres what we will cover in this Clinic

Tying the string at the bridgeWill learn how to do it on 2 bridge types, Slotted and Classical

Tying at the tuning machinesYes you should be TYING your strings at the machines

Winding the stringWhats to learn you may askFour common bridge types

Most common are slotted and classical bridges shown on the left

First is slotted where strings sit in slots

Next is classical, where strings are tied onto the end block of the bridge

Some instruments use variation on the slotted bridge where strings go into holes in the bridge and are tied off inside the ukulele ANYONE here got one?

Last is pegged bridge. Any HERE?

Not going to deal with the last twoSimplest of all bridges

Say no moreThe end of the string is knotted and the string is slid into the slot

Knot fits into a little pocket in the bridge

Generally one of these two knots is used at the end of the string

The common overhand knot is usually sufficient for most strings

However, if the string needs a heavier knot to keep it from pulling through the slot in the bridge, the Figure Eight can be used.End of string is pushed through hole in the end block of the bridge

Loop the string up towards the headstock and under the main part of the string

Bring the end back down over the bridge and pass the end over the loop created

Pass the end of the string UNDER the loop

On finer strings you may want to wind the free end one more time around the loop but its not really necessary if you string properly.

Be sure to leave a little extra at the end of the string Heres the knot all snugged up.

Two things are VERY important here.

The tail end of the string must be bound at the back edge of the bridge

ADVANCE SLIDE

The loose end of the string must be long enough that it can be tucked into the loop of the next string

ADVANCE SLIDE

The last string is wound backwards to the others so that the tail can be slipped into the loop of the previous stringA few things to note here

The string is bound at the back of the bridge properly

However two problems

Some strings have no twistsFree ends are not tucked inConsequentlyString ends may mark top of instrumentString ends may vibrate against top and cause some buzzingLooks bad!At the Headstock

Each string to the correct post please

Each string wound the right way on the postHow not to wind the stringsPhotograph of Headstock of Guitar as it arrived in repair shop

Only one string is wound the right way on the post

Only 2 of six strings are going to the right postHeres how to tie to the Tuning machine

First, line up the hole in the tuning post to be in line with the string

Slip string through the hole

Loop the string toward the CENTRE of the headstockDont loop it the other way like thisLoop it toward the CENTRE of the headstock

The tail end passes OVER the string

Loop the tail end UNDER the string on the nut side of the tuning post

Pass the end of the string OVER the loop you just formedAll snugged up

This is a DOUBLE-LOCKING knot

The free end of the string is bound to the post at two points

ADVANCE SLIDECloser view

String is bound to post by tension of the string at this point

CLICK

And this point

No slippageNow we just wind the string

The winding starts here

CLICK

And proceeds DOWN the post

Dont just wind the string any which way. It must go DOWN the post

Heres why ADVANCE SLIDEWhen wound down the post, the string forms a downward angle at the nut

This is called the Break Angle

Sufficient Break Angle ensures that the string seats in the nut properly and doesnt vibrate there

ADVANCEIf the string is wound UP the post, there is very little or no Break Angle at the nut

The string may not seat properly and consequently may buzz in the nut

Two or three winds on the post are sufficient

More winds are superfluous and may cause difficulty in tuning or maintaining tuning. WHY??

As you tighten string add tension. Tension is evenly distributed along length of string. By nature the tension will even out

But it may not do so easily where the strring wraps around the post because of friction between string and post. Or friction in the layers of string windings on post.

Eventually over time the increased tension on the main part of the string will tighten the windings on the post. When it does the string will go flat

So, fewer windings on post = less tesion distribution problem = better in-tunenessOn Roller or Barrel type tuning machines

Line up the hole with the string path

Run string through hole

Loop back OVER the barrel

Loop free end under string, back up

And UNDER the loop createdAll snugged up

Be sure to tune so that the barrel rolls in the direction shown (string passes over top of barrel, not under itBack to number of windings

Only one disadvantage to having fewer windings on post

IF you break a string at the bridge, you have some more length stored at the machine

Maybe enough to let out some string and tie another bridge knot

Then again, if you routinely break strings at the bridge, you should find out why and correct the problem