part one understanding alaska …catalogimages.wiley.com/images/db/pdf/0764579703.excerpt.pdf ·...
TRANSCRIPT
P A R T O N E
U N D E R S TA N D I N GA L A S K A
THE LAST FRONTIERE V E RY T H I N G I S B I G I N A L A S K A .
The fish are huge. The mountains are tall. The rivers are wide. Gofishing or hiking, and these symbols of grandness can be rationallycomprehended. They can be measured and photographed and braggedabout when you get back home. It’s an adventure traveler’s paradise.
But to fully comprehend just what big means in Alaska, considerthis: While you can drive your car across some continental U.S. statesin a few hours, here it would take you that much time in a jet to getfrom end to end.
What this translates to is a land that offers unlimited opportunitiesfor the traveler who is willing to get off the beaten track and explore thenooks and crannies that really make Alaska remarkable. Whether it’s adeep fjord or a meandering river, a massive icefield or a steep moun-tain, Alaska is where the most adventurous of travelers are drawn.
The Unofficial Guide to Adventure Travel in Alaska offers yousome insight into this vast land with a section-by-section outline ofthe state’s best outdoor adventures—from rafting a Class V river andclimbing a 15,000-foot mountain to hiking a scenic trail and cyclingacross the state. We realize that Alaska’s vastness alone makes it suchan alluring place to the thousands of adventure travelers who comehere each year, but we also know from experience that it can be over-whelming to take in at once.
Alaska is the largest state in the union: one-fifth the size of thecontiguous United States and larger than California, Montana, andTexas combined. The land is tremendous, covering some 586,000square miles. It is home to North America’s tallest mountain—Mount McKinley, also known as Denali—and many other peaks thatare among the highest in the United States. Statistics are even more
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COPYRIG
HTED M
ATERIAL
mind boggling: Alaska is home to some 3,000 rivers, 10,000 glaciers,and, incredibly, more than 3 million lakes. And wildlife roams throughit all: bears, moose, and, in the waters, whales and fish.
Yet Alaska is also one of the least populated states in the country,with just about 650,000 residents, most of them living in the state’sthree largest cities and outlying areas.
These qualities combined give the outdoor traveler even moreincentive to come here. Here is a place where, despite progress and allthat comes with it—high rises, cell phones, buses, cars, government—you can still reach the wilderness relatively easily. Think about this: Itis entirely conceivable to land at one of Alaska’s international air-ports, grab a taxi, and drive as few as five miles to the nearest statewilderness park. Pay the driver, slip on your backpack, and youradventure has begun. It really doesn’t get any better than this.
Of course, there are many more-elaborate trips that can be takenin Alaska, and those are the ones of which truly memorable momentsare made. But it’s fun to imagine that such a place still exists in theUnited States in which the wilderness remains so predominant.
More than a century ago, Alaska’s population wasn’t nearly aslarge as it is today, but the arrival of the Gold Rush brought peopleby the thousands, setting the foundation for today’s population.When hardy miners, searching the land and water for glistening rock,hit the jackpot in the late 1800s, this harsh land suddenly had some-thing irresistible to offer. Prospectors flocked here in search of richesbeyond their wildest dreams. Some found them; others died trying.
Today, adventure travelers the world over come to Alaska with thesame zeal those prospectors had, only what they seek is priceless. Itis Alaska’s unyielding beauty that draws visitors, who come to climbits highest peaks, travel its longest rivers, and visit its most isolatedvillages. They drive limited roads, photograph plentiful wildlife, andcruise glacier-studded waterways. After experiencing the Last Fron-tier, as Alaska is so often referred to, those visitors often becomeresidents. And it’s easy to understand why.
The landscape of Alaska was wild and awe inspiring for millenniabefore the discovery of gold, and has remained so since. Indigenouspeople were first to recognize the grandeur of this place. They wor-shiped the land for the riches it gave: not gold, but food and shelter.Despite the challenges of this extreme country, they survived andthrived. Today, their songs and stories tell of a time when they spokedirectly to the land and the land spoke back.
Early outsiders like authors Jack London and Robert Service alsoappreciated the country for its rugged splendor. Their stories andpoems romanticize the place, and can we argue with them? If weimagine London, cozy in his Yukon cabin, watching the aurora bore-alis on a frigid winter evening, it’s no surprise that he was inspired topen his classic, Call of the Wild.
T H E L A ST F RO N T I E R 7
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�To Seattle
KenaiANCHORAGE
Skagway
Whitehorse,Yukon
Cordova
Kodiak
Whittier
PalmerWasilla
Tok
DeltaJunction
ManleyHot Springs
Nenana
Talkeetna
Willow
Bettles
Soldotna
Seward
Kotzebue
Dillingham
KingSalmon
Unalakleet
Galena
McGrath
YUKON
BRITISHCOLUMBIA
Uni
ted
Stat
esC
anad
a
Kenai FjordsNational Park
Cape KrusensternNational Monument
Arctic NationalWildlife Refuge
Nome
ColdBay
DutchHarbor
Atka
Adak
Bering Sea
Attu Island
Adak IslandAtka Island
UnimakIsland
Rat IslandsCapeSt. Stephen
sdnalsInaituelA
NunivakIsland
PribilofIslands
ChukchiSea
NortonSound
BristolBay
A l a s k a
P e n i n s u l a
BethelBethelBethel
Eagle
Coldfoot
reviRmiwkoksuK
reviRnoku
Y
R a n g e
Brooks Range
Brooks Range
Arctic Circle
Fort GlenFort Glen
P A C I F I C
AnaktuvukPass
Dal
ton
Hw
y.
364
619
Un
ited
Sta
tes
Juneau
Admiralty IslandNational Monument
Petersburg
Wrangell
Anchorage
Circle
Eagle
Fairbanks
Haines
Homer
Prudhoe Bay
Seward
Skagway
Tok
An
cho
rag
e
Cir
cle
Eag
le
Fair
ban
ks
Daw
son
Cit
y
Hai
nes
Ho
mer
Pru
dh
oe
Bay
Sew
ard
Seat
tle
Skag
way
Tok
Val
dez
MILEAGECHART
520
501
358
775
226
847
126
832
328
304
520
541
162
815
746
1972
646
872
368
526
501
541
379
620
727
868
627
579
173
427
358
162
379
653
584
489
484
710
206
364
775
815
620
653
1001
1142
901
359
447
701
226
746
727
584
1001
1073
173
1058
554
530
847
1972
868
489
1142
1843
2271
1073
973
1199
695
853
126
646
627
484
901
173
973
958
454
2169
872
758
328
368
173
206
447
554
695
454
504
304
526
427
Dawson City 494 530 379131 548 713 868 619 430 189 428
701
530
853
430
430
Seattle 2243 2271 1974
494
530
379
548
713
868
430
189
428
131
1843 2121 1774 2455 2610 2493
832
579
710
359
1058
1199
958
504
254
1577
1577
2234
1974
2121
1774
2455
2610
2493
1931
1931 2169
758
254
Approximate driving distances in miles
between cities.
Valdez
Halibut CoveHomer
Katmai NationalPark and Preserve
UnalaskaUnalaska
Yukon DeltaYukon DeltaNational WildlifeNational Wildlife
RefugeRefuge
Yukon DeltaYukon DeltaNational WildlifeNational Wildlife
RefugeRefuge
Prince Rupert,B.C.
Misty FjordsNational Monument
KetchikanCraig
Sitka
Gustavus
LittleDiomedeIsland
Lake Clark NationalPark and Preserve
Mt. McKinley
DenaliNational Park
A l a s k a
Bering Land BridgeNational Preserve
Noatak NationalPreserve
Fort Yukon
Circle
FairbanksNorth Pole
McCarthyWrangell–St. EliasNational Park and Preserve
GlennallenWrangell Mts.
Kobuk ValleyNational Park
CANADA
Valdez
Dawson City,Yukon
ChenaHot Springs Yukon-Charley Rivers
National Preserve
Dempste
r Hw
y.
Un
ited
Sta
tes
Can
ada
Unalaska
Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
Refuge
Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
Refuge
Gates of the ArcticNational Park and Preserve
Yukon FlatsNational Wildlife
Refuge
Haines
alaska
8 PA RT 1 U N D E R STA N D I N G A L A S K A
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Coo
kIn
let
�To SeattleTo Seattle �
Yakutat
KenaiKenaiANCHORAGEANCHORAGE
SkagwaySkagway
Whitehorse,Whitehorse,YukonYukon
CordovaCordova
KodiakKodiak
WhittierWhittier
PalmerPalmerWasillaWasilla
TokTok
DeltaDeltaJunctionJunction
ManleyManleyHot SpringsHot Springs
NenanaNenana
TalkeetnaTalkeetna
WillowWillow
BettlesBettles
SoldotnaSoldotna
SewardSeward
KotzebueKotzebue
DillinghamDillingham
KingKingSalmonSalmon
UnalakleetUnalakleet
GalenaGalena
McGrathMcGrath
YUKONYUKONYUKON
BRITISHBRITISHCOLUMBIACOLUMBIA
BRITISHCOLUMBIA
Uni
ted
Stat
esU
nite
d St
ates
Can
ada
Can
ada
Uni
ted
Stat
esC
anad
aC
anad
a
Kenai FjordsKenai FjordsNational ParkNational Park
Cape KrusensternCape KrusensternNational MonumentNational Monument
Arctic NationalArctic NationalWildlife RefugeWildlife Refuge
Deadhorse
Barrow
Kodiak Island
Admiralty IslandBaranof Island
Chichagof Island
Prince of Wales Island
Arctic Ocean
Gulf of Alaska
PrinceWilliamSound
PrudhoeBay
Beaufort Sea
To Seattle
Glacier Bay NationalPark and Preserve
Aniakchak NationalMonument and Preserve
7
2
46
4
11
1
1Bethel
SkagwayHaines
Whitehorse,Yukon
PalmerWasilla
Tok
DeltaJunction
EagleEagleEagleManley
Hot SpringsNenana
Talkeetna
Willow
BettlesColdfootColdfootColdfoot
Kotzebue
Dillingham
KingSalmon
Unalakleet
Galena
McGrath
Kenai FjordsNational Park
Cape KrusensternNational Monument
Arctic NationalWildlife Refuge
reviRmiwkoksuK
reviRnoku
Y
R a n g e
Brooks Range
Brooks Range
reviRmiwkoksuK
reviRnoku
Y
Arctic CircleArctic Circle
R a n g e
Brooks Range
Brooks Range
Fort Glen
Alaska MarineHighway
O C E A N
AnaktuvukAnaktuvukPassPass
Dal
ton
Hw
y.D
alto
n H
wy.
Dal
ton
Hw
y.
AnaktuvukPass
Un
ited
Sta
tes
Un
ited
Sta
tes
Un
ited
Sta
tes
Un
ited
Sta
tes
JuneauJuneauJuneau
Admiralty IslandAdmiralty IslandNational MonumentNational MonumentAdmiralty IslandNational Monument
PetersburgPetersburgPetersburg
WrangellWrangellWrangell
100 Mi0
0 100 KmN
1
Paved RoadState or Provincial Route
Unpaved RoadFerry
KenaiANCHORAGE
Soldotna
Halibut CoveHalibut CoveHomerHomer
Katmai NationalKatmai NationalPark and PreservePark and Preserve
Unalaska
Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
Refuge
Yukon DeltaNational Wildlife
Refuge
Prince Rupert,Prince Rupert,B.C.B.C.
Misty FjordsMisty FjordsNational MonumentNational Monument
KetchikanKetchikanCraigCraig
SitkaSitka
GustavusGustavus
Lake Clark NationalLake Clark NationalPark and PreservePark and Preserve
Mt. McKinleyMt. McKinley
DenaliDenaliNational ParkNational Park
A l a s k a
Bering Land BridgeBering Land BridgeNational PreserveNational Preserve
Noatak NationalNoatak NationalPreservePreserve
Fort YukonFort Yukon
CircleCircle
FairbanksFairbanksNorth PoleNorth Pole
1
McCarthyMcCarthyWrangellWrangell–St. EliasSt. EliasNational Park and PreserveNational Park and Preserve
GlennallenGlennallenWrangell Mts.
Kobuk ValleyKobuk ValleyNational ParkNational Park
CANADACANADA
ValdezValdez10
8
2
5
Dawson City,Dawson City,YukonYukon
ChenaChenaHot SpringsHot Springs
9
34
8
Yukon-Charley RiversYukon-Charley RiversNational PreserveNational Preserve
6
Dempste
r Hw
y.
Dempste
r Hw
y.
5
Un
ited
Sta
tes
Un
ited
Sta
tes
Can
ada
Can
ada
Prince Rupert,B.C.
KetchikanCraig
Misty FjordsNational Monument
Sitka
Gustavus
CordovaWhittier
Seldovia
Seward
Halibut CoveHomer
Kodiak
Katmai NationalPark and Preserve
Lake Clark NationalPark and Preserve
Mt. McKinley
DenaliNational Park
A l a s k a
Bering Land BridgeNational Preserve
Kobuk ValleyNational Park
Noatak NationalPreserve
Fort Yukon
ChenaHot Springs
Circle
FairbanksNorth Pole
McCarthyWrangell–St. EliasNational Park and Preserve
GlennallenWrangell Mts.
CANADAYukon-Charley RiversNational Preserve
Valdez
Dawson City,Yukon
Dempste
r Hw
y.
Un
ited
Sta
tes
Can
ada
Gates of the ArcticGates of the ArcticNational Park and PreserveNational Park and Preserve
Yukon FlatsYukon FlatsNational WildlifeNational Wildlife
RefugeRefuge
Gates of the ArcticNational Park and Preserve
Yukon FlatsNational Wildlife
Refuge
HainesHainesHaines
T H E L A ST F RO N T I E R 9
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KENAI FJORDSKENAI FJORDSNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKKENAI FJORDS
NATIONAL PARK
WRANGELLWRANGELL–ST. ELIASST. ELIASNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKAND AND PRESERVEPRESERVE
WRANGELL–ST. ELIASNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
DENALI DENALIPRESERVEPRESERVE
NATIONAL PARKATIONAL PARK
DENALIPRESERVE
NATIONAL PARK
G u l f o f A l a s k a
P a c i f i c O c e a n
Tanana River
Cape Yakataga
ChickenChickenChicken
ChistochinaChistochinaChistochina
ChitinaChitinaChitina
Copper CenterCopper CenterCopper Center
CordovaCordovaCordova
GirwoodGirwoodGirwood
Delta JunctionDelta JunctionDelta Junction
GakonaGakonaGakona
GlennallenGlennallenGlennallen GulkanaGulkanaGulkana
MccarthyMccarthyMcCarthy
Mentasta LakeMentasta LakeMentasta Lake
NabesnaNabesnaNabesna
NorthwayNorthwayJunctionJunctionNorthwayJunction
PaxsonPaxsonPaxson
SlanaSlanaSlana
TanacrossTanacrossTanacross
TetlinTetlinTetlin
TetlinTetlinJunctionJunctionTetlinJunction
Tonsina
Eagle RiverEagle RiverEagle River
y
SkwentinaSkwentinaSkwentinaSkwentina
Talkeetna
WhittierWhittierWhittier
Kodiak
HomerHomerHomer
PalmerPalmerPalmer
SewardSewardSeward
ValdezValdezValdez
AnchorageAnchorageAnchorage
ALASKA
U.S
.A.
CA
NA
DA
25 mi0
0 25 km
BackpackingCrow PassKesugi Ridge
CanoeingLynx Lake Loop
ClimbingMount BlackburnMount BonaMount SanfordMount St. Elias
1.2.
3.
4.5.6.7.
CyclingAnchorage–ValdezBird-Gird TrailEldutna LakeHatcher PassKenai Peninsula TourTony Knowles Coastal Trail
Day HikesBird RidgeFlattop
8.9.
10.11.12.13.
14.15.
Gold Mint TrailPioneer Ridge– Austin HelmersReed LakesWinner Creek Gorge
Dog MushingChugach Express Dog Sled Tours
FishingCopper River Basin
16.17.
18.19.
20.
21.
JuneauJuneauJuneau
KetchikanKetchikanKetchikan
SitkaSitkaSitkaKenaiKenaiKenai CordovaCordovaAnchorage
Fairbanks
SouthcentralInland Alaska
Cordova
5
43
2
1
10
9
8
7
6
15
14
13
12
11
20 19
18
17
16
21
southcentral inland alaska
1 0 PA RT 1 U N D E R STA N D I N G A L A S K A
05_579703_ch01.qxd 2/1/06 10:48 AM Page 10
KATM
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Gu
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Cap
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Ch
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Ch
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Gle
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Gu
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Gu
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Mcc
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McC
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Men
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Men
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abes
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Nab
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No
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Jun
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No
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Jun
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Paxs
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Slan
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Slan
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Ton
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Yak
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Yak
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Akh
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Akh
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Eag
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Eag
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Eag
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Iliam
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Iliam
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No
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on
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Iliam
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Kar
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Lars
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Lars
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Lim
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No
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Old
Har
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Old
Har
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Ped
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Bay
Ped
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ay
Port
Als
wo
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Port
Als
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Port
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Skw
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Talk
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a
Wh
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erW
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Wh
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Kodi
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Hom
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Hom
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Palm
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Sew
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Sew
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Vald
ezA
ncho
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Anc
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geA
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20 m
i0 0
20 k
m
ALA
SKA
U.S.A.
CANADA
Jun
eau
Jun
eau
Jun
eau
Ket
chik
an
Sitk
aK
enai
Ken
aiK
enai
Kod
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Cor
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Cor
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Anc
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Fairb
anks
Sou
thce
ntr
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tal A
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Cor
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WRA
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ST. E
LIA
SST
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AS
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surr
ectio
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wy.
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reek
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1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Can
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Ken
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anoe
Tra
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Car
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sA
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Val
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Kod
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Isla
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a Ro
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ssM
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olla
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surr
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ss
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
Day
Hik
esC
resc
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Gol
d C
reek
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Sho
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ayG
rew
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kH
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alde
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ake
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erse
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er C
reek
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Cra
ter
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Do
g M
ush
ing
God
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Gla
cier
Dog
sled
Tou
rs
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
Seav
ey’s
Idid
aRid
e
Sle
d D
og T
ours
Fish
ing
Ken
ai R
iver
Sea
Kay
akin
gK
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Prin
ce W
illia
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S
ound
Resu
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Shuy
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26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
31.
54
3
2
1
10
9
2
8
7
6
15
14
13
12
11
20
19
18
17
16
25
24
23
22
21
30
29
28
27
26
31
southcentral coastal alaska
T H E L A ST F RO N T I E R 1 1
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MISTY FIORDS MISTY FIORDSNATIONALNATIONAL
MONUMENTMONUMENT
MISTY FIORDSNATIONAL
MONUMENT
CraigCraigCraig
Elfin CoveElfin CoveElfin Cove
Excursion InletExcursion InletExcursion Inlet
Hawk InletHawk InletHawk Inlet
HydaburgHydaburgHydaburg
KakeKakeKake
KlawakKlawakKlawak
KlukwanKlukwanKlukwan
MetlakatlaMetlakatlaMetlakatla
PelicanPelicanPelican
PointPointBakerBakerPointBaker
PortPortAlexanderAlexander
PortAlexander
SkagwaySkagwaySkagway
Tenakee SpringsTenakee SpringsTenakee Springs
Yakutat
YukonYukonRiver
River
YukonRiver
TeslinTeslinLakeLakeTeslinLake
WrangellWrangellWrangell
PrincePrinceRupertRupertPrinceRupert
SitkaSitkaSitka
PetersburgPetersburgPetersburg
JuneauJuneauJuneau
YUKON TERRITORYYUKON TERRITORY
BRITISH COLUMBIABRITISH COLUMBIA
YUKON TERRITORY
BRITISH COLUMBIABRITISHCOLUMBIA
ALASKA
ALASKACANADA
BRITISH COLUMBIA
U.S.A.
25 mi0
0 25 km
BaronoffBaronoffIslandIsland
BaronoffIsland
KuiuKuiuIslandIslandKuiu
Island
KupreanofKupreanofIslandIsland
KupreanofIsland
PrincePrinceofof
WalesWalesIslandIsland
Princeof
WalesIsland
GrahamGrahamIslandIsland
GrahamIsland
ChicagofChicagofIslandIsland
ChicagofIsland
KetchikanKetchikanKetchikan
HainesHainesHainesG u l f o fA l a s k a
P A C I F I CO C E A N
JuneauJuneauJuneau
Ketchikan
SitkaKenaiKenaiKenai
CordovaCordovaAnchorage
Fairbanks
SoutheastAlaska
Cordova
GLACIER BAY GLACIER BAYNATIONALNATIONALPARK ANDPARK ANDPRESERVEPRESERVE
GLACIER BAYNATIONALPARK ANDPRESERVE
BackpackingChilkoot Pass
BirdingDredge LakesEagle River HainesMendenhall WetlandsPoint Bridget State Park
CartripsHaines and Skagway
CyclingEast Glacier TrailHaines–SkagwayPrince of Wales Island
Day HikesMount RileyWest GlacierDeer MountainIndian River
FishingTenakee Springs
Sea KayakingGlacier Bay
1.
2.3.4.5.6.
7.
8.9.
10.
11.12.13.14.
15.
16.
54
3
2
1
10
9
8
7
6
15
14
13
12
1116
southeast alaska
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KENAI FJORDS KENAI FJORDSNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK KENAI FJORDS
NATIONAL PARK
LAKE CLARK LAKE CLARKNP &NP &
PRESERVEPRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARK and PRESERVE
WRANGELL–ST. ELIASPRESERVE
NATIONAL PARK
DENALI PRESERVE DENALI PRESERVENATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
DENALI PRESERVENATIONAL PARK
YUKON-CHARLEYYUKON-CHARLEYRIVERSRIVERS
NATIONALNATIONALMONUMENTMONUMENT
YUKON-CHARLEYRIVERS
NATIONALMONUMENT
GATES of the ARCTIC GATES of the ARCTICNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
& PRESERVE& PRESERVE
GATES of the ARCTICNATIONAL PARKand PRESERVE
B e a u f o r tS e a
G u l f o fA l a s k a
YukonRiver
YukonRiver
Porcupine River
Colville
River
Koyukuk
River
Kuskokuim
River Tanana
R iver
Anaktuvuk PassAnaktuvuk PassAnaktuvuk Pass
Beaver
Big Delta
CapeCapeYakatagaYakataga
CapeYakataga
Central
Chalkyitsik
Chicken
ChistochinaChistochinaChistochina
ChitinaChitinaChitina
Circle
Cirlce HotSprings
Copper CenterCopper CenterCopper Center
CordovaCordovaCordova
Delta Junction
Eagle
GakonaGlennallenGlennallenGlennallen GulkanaGulkanaGulkana
Kaktovik
MccarthyMccarthyMcCarthy
Mentasta Lake
NabesnaNabesnaNabesna
NorthwayNorthwayJunctionJunctionNorthwayJunction
Paxson
SlanaSlanaSlana
TanacrossTanacrossTanacross
Tetlin
TetlinTetlinJunctionJunctionTetlinJunction
TonsinaTonsinaTonsina
Venetie
Eagle River
EurekaManleyManley
Hot SpringsHot SpringsManley
Hot Springs
Minto
NorthPole
Rampart
Skwentina
Talkeetna
Tanana
Fort Yukon
WhittierWhittierWhittier
FairbanksFairbanksFairbanks
HomerHomerHomer
Palmer
SewardSewardSeward
ValdezAnchorageAnchorageAnchorage
ALASKA
U.S
.A.
CA
NA
DA
YUKO
N TERRITO
RY
ALA
SKA
25 mi0
0 25 km
JuneauJuneauJuneau
Ketchikan
SitkaKenaiKenaiKenai
CordovaCordovaAnchorage
FairbanksFairbanksFairbanksFairbanks
InteriorAlaska
Cordova
BackpackingChena DomeDenali National Park
BirdingFairbanks
CanoeingCharley RiverChena RiverTangle Lakes- Delta River
1.2.
3.
4.5.6.
CartripsDenali Highway
ClimbingArigetch PeaksDenali (Mt. McKinley)Mount ForakerMount Hunter
CyclingBirch Hill Ski TrailsDalton HighwayDenali Highway
7.
8.9.
10.11.
12.13.14.
Denali Park RoadEster Dome- Alder ChuteTour of the Mining Country
Day HikesAngel RocksGranite TorsLandmark Gap TrailSkookum Volcano
15.16.
17.
18.19.20.21.
Dog MushingChena Dog Sled AdventuresDenali West LodgeEarthsong Lodge and Denali Dogsled ExpeditionsKing’s Husky Homestead ToursSourdough Outfitters
22.
23.24.
25.
26.
5
4
3
2
1
109
8
7
6
15
14
13
12
11
20
19
1817
16
25
2423
22
21
26
interior alaska
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Akutan
B e r i n g S e a
P a c i f i c
YukonYukon
RiverRiverYukon
River
Kuskoku
im
Kuskoku
imRive
rRive
r
Kuskoku
imRive
r
Biorka
Kashega
Nikolski
AtkaAtkaAtka
Anvik
False PassFalse PassFalse Pass
Golovin
Gra
King CoveKing CoveKing Cove
KipnukKipnukKipnuk
Kotlik
Kwigillingok
NapakiakNapakiakNapakiak
PilotStation
SaintMicheal
Sand PointSand PointSand Point
Shaktoolik
Stebbins
Tanunak
ToksookToksookToksook
Unalakleet
Cold BayCold BayCold Bay
BethelBethelBethel
Nome
UnalaskaUnalaskaUnalaska
RUSSIA
20 mi0
0 20 km
JuneauJuneauJuneau
Ketchikan
SitkaKenaiKenaiKenai
Kodiak
CordovaCordovaAnchorageAnchorageAnchorageAnchorage
Fairbanks
Bush/Southwest
Alaska
SeeInset
Cordova
BackpackingLake Clark National Park
BirdingNome–Safety SoundThe PribilofsSt. Lawrence Islands
CanoeingWood River
Sea KayakingKatmai Coast
1.
2.3.4.
5.
6.
4
3
2
bush/southwest alaska
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ANIAKCHAK ANIAKCHAKPRESERVEPRESERVENATIONALNATIONAL
MONUMENTMONUMENT
ANIAKCHAKPRESERVENATIONAL
MONUMENT
KATMAI KATMAINATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
KATMAINATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
KENAI FJORDS KENAI FJORDSNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK KENAI FJORDS
NATIONAL PARK
LAKE CLARK LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVEAND PRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
DENALI PRESERVE DENALI PRESERVENATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
DENALI PRESERVENATIONAL PARK
G u l f o fA l a s k a
B e r i n g S e a
O c e a n
P a c i f i cO c e a n
IliamnaIliamnaLakeLakeIliamnaLake
BecharofBecharofLakeLakeBecharofLake
Kuskokuim Rive
r
Attu
Big Delta
CopperCenter
CordovaCordovaCordova
Delta JunctionDelta JunctionDelta Junction
GakonaGakonaGakona
GlennallenGlennallenGlennallenGulkanaGulkanaGulkana
PaxsonPaxsonPaxsonPaxsonPaxson
Tonsina
AkhiokAkhiokAkhiok
CrookedCreek
Eagle RiverEagle RiverEagle River
Egegik
FlatFlatFlat
GraylingGraylingGrayling
HolyHolyCrossCrossHoly
Cross
Iditarod
IliamnaIliamnaIliamna
Kaltag
Karluk
King SalmonKing SalmonKing Salmon
Larsen Bay
Lime Village
Long
ManokotakManokotakManokotak
McGrath
Medfra
NaknekNaknekNaknek
Nondalton
Old HarborOld HarborOld Harbor
Pedro BayPedro BayPedro Bay
Poorman
Port AlsworthPort AlsworthPort Alsworth
Red Devil
t
Shageluk
Skwentina
SleetmuteSleetmuteSleetmute
Stony RiverStony RiverStony River
Takotna
Talkeetna
WhittierWhittierWhittier
Kodiak
HomerHomerHomer
PalmerPalmerPalmer
SewardSewardSeward
ValdezValdezValdez
Anchorage
DillinghamDillinghamDillingham
Inset
5
1
6
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BERING LAND BRIDGE BERING LAND BRIDGEPRESERVEPRESERVE
NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
BERING LAND BRIDGEPRESERVE
NATIONAL PARK
CAPE KRUSENSTERN CAPE KRUSENSTERNNATIONAL MONUMENTNATIONAL MONUMENT CAPE KRUSENSTERN
NATIONAL MONUMENT KONAT
NOATAK NATIONAL PRESERVE NOATAK NATIONAL PRESERVE NOATAK NATIONAL PRESERVE NA NOATAK NATIONAL PRESERVE
A r c t i c A r c t i c
B e r i n g S e aB e r i n g S e a
C h u k c h iS e a
C h u k c h iS e a
Yukon
RiverYukon
River
Kuskokuim
Rive
rKuskok
uim
Rive
r
AnvikAnvikAnvik
Buckland
Kotzbue
Elim
GolovinGolovinGolovin
GraylingGraylingGrayling
Kiana
KipnukKipnukKipnuk
Kivalina
Kotlik
Koyuk
KwigillingokKwigillingokKwigillingok
NapakiakNapakiakNapakiak
Noorvik
Pilot StationPilot StationPilot StationPilot Station
Point Hope
Saint Micheal
Shaktoolik
StebbinsStebbinsStebbins
Tanunak
Taylor
ToksookToksookToksook
Unalakleet
Wainwright
Wales
BethelBethelBethel
Nome
RUSSIARUSSIARUSSIARUSSIA
20 mi0
0 20 km
LawrenceLawrenceIslandIsland
LawrenceIsland
NunivakNunivakIslandIsland
NunivakIsland
JuneauJuneauJuneau
Ketchikan
SitkaKenaiKenaiKenai
Kodiak
CordovaCordovaAnchorageAnchorageAnchorageAnchorage
Fairbanks
Bush/Far NorthAlaska
Cordova
BirdingKougarok Road
CartripsDalton Highway
CyclingAnvil Mountain
Dog MushingJerry Austin’s Alaska Adventures
FishingSelby Lake– Kobuk River
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
B r o o k s R a n g e
4
3
1
bush/far north alaska
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LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
LAKE CLARKNATIONAL PARKAND PRESERVE
DENALI PRESERVE DENALI PRESERVENATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
DENALI PRESERVENATIONAL PARK
KOBUK VALLEY KOBUK VALLEYNATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK KOBUK VALLEYNATIONAL PARK
GATES of the ARCTIC GATES of the ARCTICNATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVENATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE
GATES of the ARCTICNATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE
NATIONAL MONUMENT NATIONAL MONUMENTE NATIONAL MONUMENT NATIONAL MONUMENT
O c e a nO c e a n
Yukon RiverYukon River
Colville RiverColville River
Koyukuk
RiverKoyukuk
River
Kuskokuim
RiverKuskokuim
River
Anaktuvuk PassAnaktuvuk PassAnaktuvuk Pass
CrookedCreek
Eagle River
Eureka
Flat
Galena
Holy CrossHoly CrossHoly Cross
IditarodIditarodIditarod
Kaltag
KokrinesKoyukuk
Lime Village
Long
Manley Hot SpringsManley Hot SpringsManley Hot Springs
Mcgrath
Medfra
MintoMintoMinto
Nondalton
Nulato
Poorman
Port AlsworthPort AlsworthPort Alsworth
Rampart
RedDevil
Ruby
Shageluk
Skwentina
SleetmuteStony River
TakotnaTakotnaTakotna
Talkeetna
TananaTananaTanana
Whittier
Fairbanks
Barrow
Palmer
Seward
AnchorageAnchorageAnchorage
B r o o k s R a n g eB r o o k s R a n g e
5
2
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After all these years, the world has realized that the true wealth ofAlaska remains. In contrast to our cramped and hurried lives, inwhich high-rises block the skies, highways bisect the ground, andcrowds fill every space, Alaska lets us breathe, slow down, and appre-ciate the earth. It’s a good way to live.
Unfortunately, the very thing that makes this state so alluring—itsendless possibilities and unlimited destinations—also can be intimi-dating to visitors who don’t know where to begin. That’s where TheUnofficial Guide to Adventure Travel in Alaska comes to the rescue.The most-often-heard lament among travelers to this state is thatthey didn’t get to see everything they wanted. Believe us, they’re notalone. There are lifelong Alaskans who still have not seen the entirestate, so what’s the hurry for those of you seeing it for the first time?
This guide strives to narrow your focus, readjust your internalrules of measurement, and help you see that the vastness of Alaskadoes not have to be overwhelming. Slow down. Enjoy the special
moments. Watch the sun set behind a snow-capped mountain, or peer through binocularsat a pair of bear cubs frolicking on a hillside.Sip some locally brewed beer and listen tostreet musicians perform. Set up camp and
roast marshmallows by the fire. Paddle to a remote cove and stop to watch sea otters play.
In other words, think of Alaska as more than just a one-time vaca-tion. This state is larger than most European countries, and there isno way you’ll be able to see it all in a week, two weeks, even three.
Take time to absorb the enormousness of a place that still retainsa bit of Last Frontier wildness despite the ever-quickening encroach-ment of progress.
No matter which part of Alaska you visit, you will experience afeeling of vastness. The distinct regions each have their own climate,culture, and geography, with unique opportunities for adventure—from rafting to backpacking to dog mushing to fishing. The oneaspect they all share, however, is room to roam.
A QUICK GLIMPSE at OUR REGIONSW H E N P L A N N I N G A V I S I T TO A L A S K A based on outdoor adventure,the most important question to ask is, “What do I want to do?” Howyou get there, which region of the state you’ll need to go to, and howto organize the logistics will fall into place quite easily after that firstquestion is resolved. The Unofficial Guide to Adventure Travel inAlaska is set up with this premise in mind, offering a breakdown ofactivities and outfitters in our special-interest chapters.
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unofficial T I PAdjust your perspectiveand think s-l-o-w.
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However, if your trip happens to be limited to a specific region—for example, your great uncle on your father’s side has sent you aticket to Fairbanks, or you have just enough frequent-flier miles to getyou to Anchorage—simply start by perusing our region-by-regionchapters. More details on each area are available in their respectivechapters, but here’s a quick overview.
S O U T H C E N T RA L I N L A N D A L A S KAS O U T H C E N T R A L I N L A N D A L A S K A B E G I N S W I T H the state’s largestpopulation center, the municipality of Anchorage, and moves inlandtoward Talkeetna to the north and the Copper River–Glennallen corri-dor to the west. At just over 260,000 people—more than 40 percentof the state’s residents—Anchorage is the hub of Alaska’s economy.With its port, train station, and international airport, it serves as agateway for travelers from around the globe. Yet the sprawlingmetropolis is surrounded by wilderness: the waters of Cook Inlet andthe dense spruce, birch, and aspen forest of Chugach State Park. It isentirely conceivable, then, to have an outstanding outdoor adventurewithout ever leaving the city limits.
Naturally, Anchorage has a cosmopolitan side. The most discrim-inating travelers will find shopping, theater, art galleries, museums,and fine dining to suit their tastes. A short drive south brings you tothe world-class ski resort at Mount Alyeska. To the north lie suchgems as the Matanuska-Susitna Valley, which has incredible rafting,hiking, four-wheeling, and biking options, as well as a chance formountaineering, even in the summer.
S O U T H C E N T RA L COA S TA L A L A S KAT H E C OA S TA L WAT E R S A N D C O M M U N I T I E S that make up PrinceWilliam Sound, the Kenai Peninsula, and Kodiak Island are included in theregion we call Southcentral Coastal Alaska. These areas are overwhelm-ingly the best places for water sports such as fishing, adventure cruising,and kayaking, but don’t overlook the superior hiking, biking, andwildlife viewing. The Kenai Peninsula satisfies just about any outdoordream, which is why it is known as Alaska’s playground to residents,who flock there when they have their own vacation time to spend.
S O U T H E A S T A L A S KAO F T E N R E F E R R E D TO A S “ T H E PA N H A N D L E ” to reflect its status asthe long, thin branch of the state holding it all together, SoutheastAlaska is an especially diverse region, offering lush forests, rich nativeculture, and limitless coastline. It is the ideal place for adventurecruising as well as kayaking, wildlife viewing, birding, fishing, andbiking. Of its communities, only Skagway and Haines connect to theroad system, but it is an easy area to visit by air and water. Theregion’s largest city, Juneau, is also the state capital. From here, daytrips to outlying waterfront villages can easily be arranged. The state
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ferry system forms an integral part of life for those who call South-east Alaska home.
T H E I N T E R I O RP O I N T S M AC K - DA B I N T H E M I D D L E O F T H E S TAT E , and you’ve gotthe Alaska of most visitors’ imaginations: the Interior. Toweringmountain ranges extend forever along the Parks Highway towardFairbanks, the Interior’s largest city. In the north of the state loomsthe wild Brooks Range, and in the south, the Alaska Range. In betweenis land so wide open that when you pass a cabin or small businessalong the road, you wonder how on earth the people survive.
But survive they do. The Interior is home to hardy Alaskans whobrave cold and isolation for the reward of a simple, uncluttered wayof life. In summer, endless days and temperatures in the 80s Fahren-heit bring a blessed reprieve, a time to play. This is a region rich indog-mushing expertise, remote lake and river fishing, and wilderness-hiking and backpacking opportunities galore. And if you want to seewildlife, this is the place to go.
T H E B U S HFA N N I N G O U T F RO M T H E I N T E R I O R I S L A N D so remote, is simplycalled the Bush. The majority of Alaska’s native people choose toreside here, often living off the land by fishing, hunting, and gather-ing as their ancestors did before them. The largest communities areBarrow, Nome, Kotzebue, and Bethel, augmented by dozens of villagesscattered across the country. We have included Southwest Alaska aspart of our Bush chapter because of its remoteness and its sparsepopulation.
The Bush’s Inupiat, Yup’ik, and Aleut natives depend on boats,snowmobiles, and dog teams to get around the mostly roadless com-munities. In winter the rivers freeze, creating ribbon highways forsnowmobile and dog-team travel; in summer, boats provide trans-portation. Today, most communities also have airplane service,connecting the world to these once-inaccessible places. The Bush iswhere some of the most adventurous of adventurers roam, raftingrivers that perhaps see fewer than a dozen people in any given year,or fishing lakes that don’t know the feel of human footprints.
A BRIEF HISTORY of aBIG STATET WO C E N T S A N AC R E .
That’s what William H. Seward, the man responsible for purchas-ing Alaska from Russia in 1867, negotiated for the United States.
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At the time, that rate, which totaled $7.2 million, was called out-rageous. Critics said Seward was a foolish man. They called thepurchase “Seward’s Folly” and the land “Seward’s Icebox.”
But oh, what a bargain it was. Today, not only is Alaska one of themost beautiful states in the country, but it has a wealth of naturalresources and a growing economy dependent on tourism. It’s stilllightly populated compared with other states, and it maintains afrontier attitude in many smaller communities.
The Russians were among the first to explore the area, and vestigesof their presence remain today. From their first ventures to Alaskan ter-ritory back in the 1700s, the Russians have shown that they may havesold the territory, but many of them never stopped calling it home.
Vitus Bering was the original Russian explorer. The year was 1741,and Bering and his crew reached what is now called Kayak Island.However, Bering and much of his crew perished in a shipwreck on thereturn trip. Those who survived the disastrous event and stayedthrough winter brought home luxurious sea otter skins that spurredother Russian explorers to rush to Alaska. Grigori Shelekhov was oneof those entrepreneurs who in 1784 founded the first permanent set-tlement in Alaska on Kodiak Island and sent Alexander Baranov tomanage his company.
Kodiak is, in fact, the first place where the Russians settled, firstin secluded Three Saints Bay and later in present-day Kodiak. Theirinfluence is evident in a modern-day walking tour of the city, includ-ing the museum, Holy Resurrection Russian Orthodox Church, andthe Saint Innocent Veniaminov Research Institute Museum. There isalso a yearly event celebrating the canonization of a Russian priest,Saint Herman, in an area outside of town called Monk’s Lagoon.
As the Russians became involved with the sea otter–skin industry,they inevitably clashed with Alaskan natives, who saw the foreigninflux as an intrusion on their lives and livelihoods. By 1786 Russianfur traders had made their way to the Kenai Peninsula, and had set-tled in the area by 1791. Russian Orthodox priests arrived and beganintroducing the natives to Christianity, and their churches grew.
But tension mounted, and in 1797 a battle for the Kenai eruptedbetween the Dena’ina Athabascans and the Lebedev Company, thefur-trading company based on the Kenai. More than 100 Russians,Dena’ina, and other natives were killed.
Meanwhile, the majority of Russians had moved eastward towardSitka and other Southeast communities, where they continued to tradefurs. By 1796, they had arrived in Yakutat, later settling in Sitka, whichbecame their capital. The Tlingit Indians living in the area knew thatsubmitting to the Russians meant allegiance to their czar and slavelabor for their fur-trade company. A battle between the Tlingits and theRussians ensued in 1802, and nearly all the Russians and their Aleutslaves were killed.
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In 1804, undaunted by the battle, Baranov arrived ready to fight.For six days he fought the Tlingits, this time overpowering them. TheRussians named their newly acquired land New Archangel, and thesite known as Castle Hill evolved.
Sitka is one of the best places to learn about Russia’s influence onAlaska. Just take a walk around the city. Enjoy lofty views of the sur-rounding islands and ocean from Castle Hill (where, incidentally,“Russia America” officially became Alaska, USA, in 1867); see a re-created Russian blockhouse; visit the old Russian cemetery and theLutheran cemetery, where, for some reason, the Russian PrincessMaksoutoff lies buried; pass many historic houses; check out SaintMichael’s Russian Orthodox Cathedral; and visit the Russian Bishop’sHouse, which is part of Sitka National Historical Park.
By the time the United States took ownership of Alaska, much ofthe Russian conflict had subsided. The next wave of activity to reachthe state had nothing to do with war and a lot to do with wealth. Goldwas discovered near Sitka in 1872, prompting the beginning of a goldrush that would peak at the turn of the century. In 1897, the largest dis-covery was made in the Klondike, stretching from Canada’s Yukon Ter-ritory into Alaska and attracting thousands of gold seekers. In 1898,prospectors found gold on the beaches in Nome, sparking another rushto the western part of the territory. The gold rush turned one-streettowns into bustling cities of thousands, seemingly overnight.
By 1906, gold production was at its peak, and Alaska got its ownnonvoting delegate to Congress. Gold mining was on the decline, butwith the influx of so many new residents, other exciting prospectsemerged. Copper mining at the Kennicott mine began, and oil pro-duction at select spots throughout the land was already under way. By1912, Alaska was named an official U.S. territory.
Although still just a territory, Alaska played a significant role in thenation’s economy, bringing in money from natural-resource develop-ment. Construction of the Alaska Railroad began in 1914, and loggingin Southeast Alaska was becoming a large industry around the sametime. In 1935, Depression-era farming families came to Alaska as partof the Matanuska Valley Project. The government-backed effort to create a self-sustaining farming community in Alaska gave poverty-stricken families free land in exchange for their sweat and toil “bringingup” the wilderness into wide-open cropland and pastures. While manyabandoned the project, intimidated by the harsh winters and crude liv-ing conditions the first few years, others thrived. Today, countless gen-erations of those first families still call the Matanuska-Susitna Valley inSouthcentral Alaska their home. Visitors to the area come to gawk atthe giant cabbages, massive carrots, and other vegetables and fruits thatgrow so huge during the summer.
As those valley farmers settled into their new homes, another regionof the Alaska territory came to the forefront of the public eye. Today,
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it’s a little-known fact that the Japanese invaded American lands dur-ing World War II, but in 1942 it was headline news. On a June day onthe remote archipelago that makes up the Aleutian Chain in South-western Alaska, just six months after the attack on Pearl Harbor inHawaii, the Japanese came. Planes from a Japanese aircraft carrierbombed the Naval Station and Fort Mears in Dutch Harbor, then oc-cupied nearby Attu and Kiska islands. It was the first time since theWar of 1812 that foreign forces had occupied American territory.
Forty-two people from the islands were taken to Japan ashostages, 17 of whom died in captivity. Meanwhile, the U.S. govern-ment evacuated the remaining Aleuts from their homes in theAleutian and Pribilof islands. American troops destroyed many ofthe homes on the islands to prevent the Japanese from settling in tooeasily. Many of the natives who once called this remote region homewere not able to return for years. Much of their settlement had beenburned to the ground, leaving them with nothing.
Fortunately, U.S. forces did not tolerate the occupation for toolong. By May 1943, the Japanese had been mostly defeated, but at ahigh cost to American soldiers. In the end, more than 20 U.S. pilotsand 2,500 troops perished.
With the war came better access to Alaska. Recognizing the needto reach to this remote territory, the government approved funds in1942 to build the Alaska Highway. U.S. Army engineer troops designedand built the primitive, 1,400-plus-mile road in a mind-boggling ninemonths and six days, from Dawson Creek, British Columbia, to whatis now Delta Junction in Alaska. It was the first and only overlandconnection to the Lower 48 states and still one of the primary waysof reaching Alaska today.
Alaska gained statehood in 1959, making it the 49th state to jointhe nation. Over the years, defining moments put Alaska in the spot-light: On March 27, 1964, on a Good Friday afternoon, a magnitude-9.2 earthquake rattled the state, wiping out the villages of Chenegain Prince William Sound and the community of Portage on Turn-again Arm. Other communities suffered millions of dollars in damage.In the end, the four-minute-long earthquake killed 131 people inAlaska, along with 14 others in Oregon and California who wereswept away by tidal waves.
In 1971, Congress approved the Alaska Native Claims SettlementAct, which gave 40 million acres and $900 million to Alaskan natives,officially recognizing their aboriginal ownership of the land. Foryears the government had been vague about its acknowledgement ofnatives’ land ownership, but the discovery of oil brought incentive forsettling the long-standing claim. The signing of the Alaska NativeClaims Settlement Act then cleared the way for the construction ofthe Trans-Alaska Pipeline System, an 800-mile raised tube that car-ries oil from the North Slope oil fields to Valdez. The construction of
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the pipeline brought thousands of workers to the state, creating awave of activity. A boom of construction followed, and for a timeAlaskans were living large.
In 1980, the Alaska legislature, led by then-Governor Jay Ham-mond, recognized the value of the oil resource and created what itcalled the Permanent Fund, which held a quarter of all oil royaltiesfor future generations and was paid out as a dividend to each quali-fied Alaskan once a year. The first checks, mailed in 1982, paid eachqualified Alaskan, including babies and children, $1,000. Today, thelegislature is attempting to raid the Permanent Fund to pay for gov-ernment. If you’re visiting Alaska and read the newspapers or watchthe news, you’ll likely see countless reports about the ongoingdebate. So far, the voters have kept attempts to raid the fund at bay.In 2000, the dividend to each Alaskan reached a record high of$1,963.86. In 2004, it dropped to $919.84, the first time since 1995that it was below $1,000.
Through it all, Alaskans, both native to the land and those whomoved north for a bit of adventure but decided it was a pretty goodplace to call home, have persevered. They have proved that the criticswho called Alaska “Seward’s Folly” or “Seward’s Icebox” all thoseyears ago were simply wrong. Seward just may have been the mostbrilliant man of his time, recognizing in Alaska a potential that con-tinues to shine today. Oil production, commercial fishing, and tourismare growing industries that offer Alaskans a way to earn a living in aridiculously beautiful setting. But above all, Alaska’s biggest asset isits natural environment. It is something to be celebrated, enjoyed,and, most of all, protected for generations to come.
ALASKA’S NATIVE PEOPLES and CULTURESU N L E S S YO U R O U T D O O R A DV E N T U R E I N C L U D E S travel in some ofthe remotest sections of the state, there’s a good chance you won’tcross paths with that many of Alaska’s native people. It’s a surpris-ingly true and unfortunate phenomenon. Alaska natives make uponly 16 percent of the population of today’s Alaska, although thereare 11 distinct cultures and 20 languages among the group as a whole.
But many natives still live in the most remote and wildest areas ofthe state, putting them off the radar for the traveler who only blowsby the larger cities. Even though there are a fair number of natives inthe cities, too, they share these places with tens of thousands of otherpeople of all nationalities. In fact, technically speaking, Anchorage isthe largest native village in the state, considering that nearly 19,000American Indian/Alaska natives call it home. That’s a larger popula-tion than any of the more remote, mostly native communities.
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It would be a shame to come all the way to Alaska, though, and notlearn more about the indigenous peoples who first called this landhome. Their cultures are fascinating and impressive, yet humbling andchallenging. A good number of today’s natives, especially those in thevillages, still live entirely by the same means as their ancestors did hun-dreds of years before them. They catch fish, harvest berries, and huntfor most of their food. They go whaling and hold potlatches. Theirconnection to the land is, for many, as close now as it was hundreds ofyears ago, despite the arrival of electricity, running water, and the con-venience of four-wheel-drive vehicles over dogsleds.
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When you visit an area whose residents are predominantly natives, above all, berespectful. Just as you would while traveling in any other country, whetheryou’re encountering shepherds in Ireland leading their sheep home or abo-rigines in Australia working on their ranches, avoid the temptation to gawk.In general, treat them as you would want to be treated.
If you are close enough and able to, ask before taking photographs.Native cultural events are steeped in tradition. Many of them represent
the living or the dead, and are of a religious nature. The same goes for nativeburial sites. Again, resist the urge to take photos without asking first.
You may notice that native Alaskans speak slowly and often take time torespond to a question or comment. Do not become unnerved by this orassume they do not hear you.
Likewise, try not to interrupt when conversing with native Alaskans. It ispurely a Western tendency to try finishing another person’s thoughts orjumping in with your own opinions. By Alaska native standards, it is consid-ered rude—although it would also be rude to point it out.
When traveling, especially in remote areas, be sure to have the properpermits for traveling on native-owned land. With the advent of the AlaskaNative Claims Settlement Act, more than 40 million acres of Alaska land isnative owned. That means it is private. Some native corporations require afee for use of its land; others only require that visitors to get permission, anda few do not allow public access at all. (For details on traveling on native land,see Part Three, Getting Around, page 44.)
In general, there are three groups of Alaska natives—Indian,Eskimo, and Aleut. The terms Inuit and Native American aresometimes used in place of Eskimo and Indian in an effort to beconsiderate, but that doesn’t work in Alaska. It is true that in manyother places, Eskimo is considered a derogatory word because it issaid to mean “eater of raw meat”; however, using the term Inuitis not accurate in an Alaskan context because the Inuit language isrestricted to the peoples of Arctic Canada and portions of Green-land. In Alaska and Arctic Siberia, where Inuit is not spoken, the
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comparable terms are Inupiat, Yup’ik, or one of the other culturalnames within that region.
For the most part in Alaska, Indian and Eskimo are not offensivewords. In fact, Eskimos pride themselves on their heritage. Still, ifyou feel uncomfortable using such terms, ask instead what culture anative is from. The natives of the northern reaches of Alaska will notuse the word Eskimo when answering. Instead they likely will namea more specific culture, such as Inupiat, Yup’ik, or Cup’ik.
These three designations are further divided into five cultures, basedon similarities in tradition, language, and proximity. At the Alaska Na-tive Heritage Center, considered the defining authority on the subject,there are houses representing each of the five cultures, and visitors tothe Anchorage-based center can learn how the varying native groupslived. They include Athabascan; Yup’ik and Cup’ik; Inupiat and St.Lawrence Island Yupik; Aleut and Alutiiq; and Eyak, Tlingit, Tsimshian,and Haida. As the state continues to grow and those from all over theUnited States and other nations arrive, Alaska’s first peoples are find-ing it more important than ever to celebrate their heritage and educatethose who want to know more about them.
AT H A B A S C A NYO U ’ L L S E E T H E WO R D Athabascan spelled two ways, with a c andwith a k, but don’t be confused—they are one in the same. The geo-graphic region for the Athabascan people traditionally begins in theInterior, just south of the Brooks Range, and follows all the way tothe Kenai Peninsula, which is described in more detail in the South-central Coastal chapter. Before the advent of modern transportation,the Athabascans lived along five major rivers, including the Copper,Yukon, Tanana, Susitna, and Kuskokwim. They were a nomadic peo-ple, often traveling hundreds of miles to follow their best sources offood, depending upon the time of year and severity of the seasons.
Today, Athabascan people live throughout the entire state, as wellas the Lower 48 states. According to the Alaska Native Heritage Cen-ter, “the Athabascan people call themselves ‘Dena,’ or ‘the people.’ ”They are taught a respect for all living things; hunting is for subsis-tence only. They also are taught to share, perhaps a throwback to atime when combining resources was the only way groups could sur-vive. Sharing is a community-wide belief, and those who have, give.
When you see the name Denali—and, believe us, you will if youset foot into this state—give a nod to the Athabascan people. Denali,the native name for Mount McKinley, North America’s largest peak,is an Athabascan term meaning “high one.”
T L I N G I T, H A I DA , E YA K , A N D T S I M S H I A NT H E H A I DA A R E A N I N D I A N G RO U P O F A B O U T 800 who emigratedfrom Canada and now live in Southeast Alaska, the Prince of WalesIslands, and surrounding areas. The Tlingit, about 11,000 strong, live
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mostly in the southeast. The Tsimshian are a small group from Met-lakatla living in the area on their own reservation. The Eyak arenatives related to the Athabascans but influenced greatly by the Tlin-gits. The Eyak language is nearly extinct, with only one speaker knownto still be living.
I N U P I AT A N D S T. L AW R E N C E I S L A N D Y U P I K E S K I MO ST H E I N U P I AQ A N D T H E S T. L AW R E N C E I S L A N D Y U P I K people callthemselves the “Real People,” according the Alaska Native HeritageCenter, and their homelands are in north and northwest Alaska.They depend largely on subsistence and still hunt whales, seals, wal-rus, and other large animals, and gather berries in season. They alsohunt birds and fish when the conditions are right. These groups ofnatives are in the same category because of their similar subsistencepatterns, the way they constructed their homes, and the tools theyused to survive.
St. Lawrence Island Yupiks speak Siberian Yupik, which is differ-ent from the languages spoken by other Yup’ik Eskimos (thus thedifference in the spellings Yupik and Yup’ik).
Y U P ’ I K A N D C U P ’ I KT H E S E G RO U P S O F E S K I M O S L I V E I N S O U T H W E S T Alaska in suchcommunities as Nome, Unalakleet, and Perryville. Their names comefrom the dialects of the languages they speak. Like the Yupiks of St.Lawrence Island and the Inupiat of north and northwestern Alaska,they depend upon a subsistence lifestyle for their livelihood, andelders tell stories of traditional ways of life to teach younger genera-tions about their heritage.
A L E U T A N D A LU T I I QS O U T H A N D S O U T H W E S T A L A S K A A R E T H E O R I G I NA L regions forthe Aleut and Alutiiq peoples, although today they live all over thestate and beyond. Traditionally, Aleuts and Alutiiqs depended uponthe ocean for their livelihoods, living off what they could catch fromthe sea, creeks, rivers, or even lakes. Their territory ranged from theNorth Pacific and Bering Sea, from Prince William Sound to the endof the Aleutian Chain. In places such as Kodiak Island, the influenceof Russians, which began in the 18th century, can still be seen today.The Orthodox Church became the focal point of every village, andthe native people in these communities adopted many of the Russiantraditions and the language.WANT TO KNOW MORE? The Alaska Native Heritage Center, which pro-vided the bulk of information for this section, can be contacted at8800 Heritage Center Drive, Anchorage 99506; # 800-315-6608 or907-330-8000; www.alaskanative.net.
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