pantanal 9–14 july 2016 erling jirle report from a combined conference- and vacation trip in...

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Pantanal 9–14 July 2016 Erling Jirle

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Pantanal 9–14 July 2016

Erling Jirle

Trip report from a combined conference- and vacation trip in Brazil June–July 2016 Erling Jirle, Lund, Sweden Cover photo by Erling Jirle: Female jaguar with cubb at Rio Corixo Negro, NE Porto Jofre 12.7.2016. 30 June. Rio de Janeiro. Picked up at airport by Nilo after a 12-hour flight from Paris. Stayed at a very nice apartment in Copacabana, 200 m from the beach with Nicoletta Faraone and Jothi Kumar Yuvaraj. Booked via booking.com. The morning was spent at a breakfast café and a long walk along the beach. Foggy and cloudy, but around +20. The landlord was a very nice guy, Nilo, who took us on a sightseeing tour along other beaches like Ipanema. The Sugarloaf Mountain was too foggy. We had lunch at a buffet restaurant, where you paid per gram food on the plate; I won with 700 grams. Then the three of us took a minibus up to Redondo, the Jesus statue. Nice views over the city, although there were partly thick clouds with only mountain tops sticking up like nunataks in a glacier. The evening was spent in Nilo's fantastic 15-room attic flat with rooftop view on Jesus. Nilo made 3 kinds of caipirinhas, i.e. with passion fruit. The lime version was best. We saw Portugal win a Euro 2016 match. Evening dinner and more caipirinhas with Nilo and his wife at Copacabana near our flat. Copa has many restaurants on nice small streets without much traffic. 1 July. Early taxi to the airport, and a flight to Foz do Igauaçu, and another fast taxi to our conference hotel; Recanto the Cataratas thermal and spa. A big and very good hotel. 16 years since last visit to this city with 350 000 inh. Spent most of the afternoon by the pool. The pools are filled every third day with warm water from a thermal spring, hence the name of the hotel. I shared room with Jothi, and in the afternoon Souzan M arrived from Sweden, she missed Rio due to illness. She shared room with Nicoletta. The others from our research group also showed up at the hotel; Christer, Glenn, Martin. 2 July. Just some short birding in the hotel garden before breakfast. Workshop with Brazilian colleagues at the hotel. 3 July. Today we visited the Argentinean side of the waterfalls. Did Macuco Trail, and Upper and Lower waterfall trails, but it wasn't as good as it was the last time I visited, in September 2000. Saw a number of species though, but they are not listed in the trip list, since it only covers Brazil. 4 July. Took a taxi with Glenn and Martin to the National Park entrance and birded while walking along the main road in the Iguaçu National Park. Nothing new for me, but Martin got several ticks (first time for him in South America). Tried playbacks for some species I needed, but no result. It is in the middle of the winter, and the species I needed were the difficult ones, like a number of antbirds. 5 July-8 July. Conference days. One afternoon we went on an excursion to the waterfalls on the Brazilian side. 9 July. Flight at 6:00 from Foz do Iguaçu, via Sao Paulo to Cuiabá in Mato Grosso together with Christer Löfstedt and Kristina Haara. And also our guide the coming 6 days; Ricardo Parrini. As usual in South America smooth and easy, they load the aircrafts in 15 minutes, as long as the flight is not cancelled or changed. We had a prearranged tour made by Brasilienexperten in Sweden. We were supposed to be 5 persons, but 2 had to quit Brazil due to family problems, and with additional single room cost I had to pay 40 000 SEK for 6 nights in Pantanal. But to get Seriema on the family list, plus jaguar, giant otter, hyacinth macaw and some other high ranked birds and mammals you have to prepared on some costs. We were supposed to be met by a bus, but due to communication problems in the link Brasilienexperten in Sweden - the Brazilian organiser Ideia Tours - and the local lodge they hadn’t been informed that our flight was changed from arrival in Cuiabá 3 p.m. to 9:30 a.m., but after some phone calls a bus showed up after 30-45 minutes. And the local lodge guide, Patricia showed up as well. Then we went through the city, tarmac road to Poconé for about 140 kms and then the famous straight, flat but narrow gravel road the Transpantaneira started at km 0. But before Poconé Patricia spotted a pair of seriemas, no. 1 on my wish list. Now I have seen all families in South America :-) We bought some fruit in Poconé. Then we started Transpantaneira birding in fairly slow pace. There are many bridges to pass on this road, over 100, so you can't drive very fast anyway. The wetlands, reeds and grasslands were teeming with birds, and they were not very shy so fairly easy to photograph. There were also lots of caymans and some lizards and mammals. The days that followed had about the same schedule: Early morning birding, before buffet breakfast, then morning birding until about 10:00-11:00, then a long siesta including buff lunch. At around 15:00 or 15:30 late afternoon birding until it got dark. Then dinner - buff type of course, after that the bird listing and then finally sometimes a night drive between 20:00 and 22:00. The first two nights, 9 July and 10 July, were spend at Pousada Rio Claro. It is reached by a 3 km long entrance road that starts at Transpantaneira km 42. It was a nice lodge with a swimming pool, and at a small river, were we made a two boat trips. 11 July. After some morning birding the second leg of the trip continued: We were picked up by Eduardo and a driver in a Toyota Hilux 4x4 turbo pickup with nice seats mounted on top of the pickup; excellent for birding and taking photos, and nice cooling by the wind. Eduardo is the owner of our next lodge to stay at; Jaguar Ecological Reserve, at Transpantaneira km 82. He told us a lot about the history of Pantanal and the wildlife. His lodge used to be a cattle ranch, but when he took it over from his father he transferred it to eco-tourism

instead. Both Eduardo and Ricardo was sharp finding all the birds along the road, we made frequent stops to watch and take photos. At the lodge was 12 Hyacinth Macaws, the world’s largest parrot, and extremely rare. They liked company of people, when the lodge was empty of visitors they didn't like to be around either. We did birding in a small forest and along the road. 12 July. Today was Jaguar Day. We went very early all the way down to Porto Jofre, where the road ends at a river. On the other side of the river is the state Mato Gross do Sul, which was separated from Mato Grosso 1979. Eduardo had a boat, and we took off and travelled along the big river and several tributaries. No sign of jaguars in several hours, but we saw another species on my wish list; Giant Otter. Then suddenly a big boat from a Porto Jofre Hotel took off; they got a jaguar alert via radio. We tried to follow them, but they had 100 hp heavier engine so we couldn't keep their speed. We came to the site there was about 10 boats. The jaguars had left 5 minutes before. But Eduardo said we should just stay foot and wait for the jaguars. All boat but one left for lunch in Porto Jofre. We waited for over an hour, I was looking all the time at the river bank were the jaguars had disappeared when Eduardo suddenly said; look, there is a jaguar and pointed on the OTHER side of the river. And there they were, they had crossed the river without us noticing it! We went closer with the boat and could lots of excellent photos. It was a big female with a young cub. They went away after 10 minutes, but then came back again after a few minutes, so we could watch them for more than 20 minutes. Fantastic! 13 July. Eduardo was a bit tired of driving the 4W-vehicle, so I volunteered to be driver today, when we drove up to our last lodge, Pouso Alegre. The access road is at km 33, then there is 6 km on a narrow road eastward to the lodge. Halfway to the lodge we made a coffee stop at Fazenda Santa Tereza, were many bird groups stay according to trip reports. It is situated at a river, as many lodges are in Pantanal. We said farewell to Eduardo, who was going to Cuiabá with his children, who study there, at a boarding school. We had 2 days at Pouso Alegre Lodge. We birded along the access road and in a forest patch nearby. It was very good birding here, lots of good photos, and species like Helmeted Manakin and White Woodpecker. 14 July. Departure at 4 a.m. for the airport. We saw a very rare mammal on the access road - that walked up to our bus and bumped into it - a Giant Armadillo! We arrived in good time to the airport, our bus driver was very fast. Then a long flight home via Sao Paolo and Paris - got upgraded to business class the last flight to Copenhagen which was nice. Photo: Hyacinth Macaw Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus at Jaguar Ecological Reserve. Erling Jirle.

TRIPREPORT

BRASIL-16

BIRDS

1 Undulated Tinamou Crypturellus undulatus adspersus Endemic 1 heard Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 heard Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 heard Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7, 4 heard Transpantaneira 12.7 and 1 Transpantaneira 13.7

2 Greater Rhea Rhea americana araneipes 6 Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

3 Southern Screamer Chauna torquata 5 Transpantaneira 12.7

4 White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata 20 Transpantaneira 9.7

5 Black-bellied Whistling Duck Dendrocygna autumnalis autumnalis 12 Transpantaneira 9.7

6 Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata 4 Transpantaneira 9.7 and 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

7 Chaco Chachalaca Ortalis canicollis pantanalensis 10 Transpantaneira 9.7, 40 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 25 Transpantaneira 11.7, 100 Transpantaneira 12.7, 100 Transpantaneira 13.7 and 100 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

8 Chestnut-bellied Guan Penelope ochrogaster Endemic 4 Transpantaneira 9.7, 25 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 6 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 15 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

9 Blue-throated Piping Guan Pipile cumanensis cumanensis 15 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

10 Red-throated Piping Guan Pipile cujubi nattereri 5 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

11 Bare-faced Curassow Crax fasciolata fasciolata 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 3 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7 and 5 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

12 Wood Stork Mycteria americana 20 Transpantaneira 9.7, 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 3 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 25 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

13 Jabiru Jabiru mycteria 10 Transpantaneira 9.7, 4 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 15 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

14 Plumbeous Ibis Theristicus caerulescens 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 5 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 4 Transpantaneira 13.7

15 Buff-necked Ibis Theristicus caudatus caudatus 5 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7, 15 Transpantaneira 13.7 and 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

16 Green Ibis Mesembrinibis cayennensis 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

17 Bare-faced Ibis Phimosus infuscatus nudifrons 7 Transpantaneira 9.7 and 15 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

18 Roseate Spoonbill Platalea ajaja 5 Transpantaneira 9.7, 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

19 Rufescent Tiger Heron Tigrisoma lineatum marmoratum 3 Transpantaneira 9.7, 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 5 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

20 Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius cochlearius 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

21 Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax hoactli 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 12 Transpantaneira 13.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

22 Striated Heron Butorides striata striata 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 25 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 5 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 40 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

23 Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis 50 En route Cuiabá - Poconé 9.7 and 2 Transpantaneira 13.7

24 Cocoi Heron Ardea cocoi 10 Transpantaneira 9.7, 16 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 25 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

25 Great Egret Ardea alba egretta 1 Rio de Janeiro 30.6, 40 Transpantaneira 9.7, 20 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7 and 25 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

26 Capped Heron Pilherodius pileatus 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 5 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 5 Transpantaneira 13.7

27 Whistling Heron Syrigma sibilatrix sibilatrix 1 Transpantaneira 13.7

28 Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea 5 Transpantaneira 9.7

29 Snowy Egret Egretta thula thula 10 Transpantaneira 9.7, 30 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 45 Transpantaneira 13.7

30 Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens 200 Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro 30.6

31 Brown Booby Sula leucogaster leucogaster 20 Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro 30.6

32 Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus brasilianus 5 Rio de Janeiro 30.6, 50 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 30 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

33 Anhinga Anhinga anhinga anhinga 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 10 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 20 Transpantaneira 13.7

34 Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura ruficollis 5 Foz do Iguaçu 2.7, 12 Transpantaneira 9.7, 5 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7 and 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

35 Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture Cathartes burrovianus urubutinga 6 Transpantaneira 9.7, 25 Transpantaneira 11.7, 20 Transpantaneira 13.7 and 3 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

36 Black Vulture Coragyps atratus 50 Iguaçu NP 4.7, 30 Transpantaneira 9.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

37 Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus carolinensis 1 Porto Jofre 12.7

38 Grey-headed Kite Leptodon cayanensis monachus 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

39 Black-collared Hawk Busarellus nigricollis nigricollis 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 4 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 10 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 5 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

40 Snail Kite Rostrhamus sociabilis sociabilis 50 Transpantaneira 9.7, 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 20 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 30 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

41 Crane Hawk Geranospiza caerulescens flexipes 1 Porto Jofre 12.7 and 1 Transpantaneira 12.7

42 Savanna Hawk Buteogallus meridionalis 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 5 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 5 Transpantaneira 13.7

43 Great Black Hawk Buteogallus urubitinga urubitinga 10 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 6 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

44 Roadside Hawk Rupornis magnirostris saturatus: 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 Transpantaneira 11.7, 3 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 3 Transpantaneira 13.7 magniplumis: 2 Iguaçu NP 4.7

45 Red-legged Seriema Cariama cristata 4 En route Cuiabá - Poconé 9.7

46 Sunbittern Eurypyga helias helias 3 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

47 Grey-necked Wood Rail Aramides cajaneus cajaneus 4 Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 5 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

48 Limpkin Aramus guarauna guarauna 25 Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 Transpantaneira 11.7, 50 Transpantaneira 12.7, 30 Transpantaneira 13.7 and 15 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

49 White-backed Stilt Himantopus melanurus 2 Transpantaneira 9.7

50 Southern Lapwing Vanellus chilensis lampronotus 5 Iguaçu NP 4.7, 10 Transpantaneira 9.7, 6 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

51 Pied Plover Hoploxypterus cayanus 3 Porto Jofre 12.7

52 Wattled Jacana Jacana jacana jacana 25 Transpantaneira 9.7, 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 5 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 10 Transpantaneira 13.7

53 Black Skimmer Rynchops niger intercedens 3 Porto Jofre 12.7

54 Grey-headed Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus cirrocephalus 2 Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro 30.6

55 Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus dominicanus 10 Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro 30.6

56 Yellow-billed Tern Sternula superciliaris 10 Porto Jofre 12.7

57 Large-billed Tern Phaetusa simplex 170 Transpantaneira 9.7 and 2 Porto Jofre 12.7

58 Rock Dove Columba livia livia 10 Rio de Janeiro 30.6 and 50 Várzea Grande-Cuiabá area, incl the airport 15.7

59 Picazuro Pigeon Patagioenas picazuro picazuro 10 Transpantaneira 9.7, 20 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 100 Transpantaneira 13.7 and 25 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

60 Pale-vented Pigeon Patagioenas cayennensis sylvestris 100 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 5 Transpantaneira 11.7

61 Scaled Dove Columbina squammata squammata 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

62 Ruddy Ground Dove Columbina talpacoti talpacoti 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

63 Picui Ground Dove Columbina picui picui 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 6 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 10 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 10 Transpantaneira 13.7

64 White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi decipiens 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 heard Transpantaneira 11.7, 4 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7, 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7 and 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

65 Eared Dove Zenaida auriculata chrysauchenia 5 Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro 30.6

66 Guira Cuckoo Guira guira 3 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 1 Transpantaneira 13.7

67 Smooth-billed Ani Crotophaga ani 5 Transpantaneira 9.7, 6 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 20 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

68 Striped Cuckoo Tapera naevia 1 Transpantaneira 9.7

69 Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana cabanisi: 1 heard Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7 macroura: 1 Iguaçu NP 4.7

70 Great Horned Owl Bubo virginianus nacurutu 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7, 1 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

71 Ferruginous Pygmy Owl Glaucidium brasilianum brasilianum 2 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7, 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

72 Burrowing Owl Athene cunicularia cunicularia 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

73 Great Potoo Nyctibius grandis grandis 1 Rio Corixo Negro, NE Porto Jofre 12.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

74 Common Potoo Nyctibius griseus griseus 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

75 Nacunda Nighthawk Chordeiles nacunda nacunda 25 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

76 Band-tailed Nighthawk Nyctiprogne leucopyga majuscula 1 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7 and 100 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

77 Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis derbyanus 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

78 Buff-bellied Hermit Phaethornis subochraceus 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

79 Glittering-bellied Emerald Chlorostilbon lucidus lucidus: 1 Porto Jofre 12.7 berlepschi: 1 Rio de Janeiro 30.6

80 Fork-tailed Woodnymph Thalurania furcata baeri 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

81 Violet-capped Woodnymph Thalurania glaucopis 1 Iguaçu NP 7.7

82 Rufous-throated Sapphire Hylocharis sapphirina 1 Foz do Iguaçu 2.7

83 Glittering-throated Emerald Amazilia fimbriata nigricauda 1 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7, 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 1 Transpantaneira 13.7

84 Blue-crowned Trogon Trogon curucui curucui 2 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

85 Surucua Trogon Trogon surrucura surrucura 2 Iguaçu NP 4.7

86 American Pygmy Kingfisher Chloroceryle aenea aenea 1 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7 and 1 Transpantaneira 12.7

87 Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana mathewsii 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 4 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

88 Amazon Kingfisher Chloroceryle amazona 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 10 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

89 Ringed Kingfisher Megaceryle torquata torquata 20 Transpantaneira 9.7, 25 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 10 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

90 Rufous-tailed Jacamar Galbula ruficauda heterogyna 1 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7, 3 Porto Jofre 12.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

91 Black-fronted Nunbird Monasa nigrifrons nigrifrons 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

92 Chestnut-eared Aracari Pteroglossus castanotis australis 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 4 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7, 12 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 5 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

93 Toco Toucan Ramphastos toco albogularis 5 Iguaçu NP 4.7, 1 Transpantaneira 11.7, 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7, 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7 and 1 Transpantaneira 13.7

94 White Woodpecker Melanerpes candidus 3 Porto Jofre 12.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

95 Little Woodpecker Veniliornis passerinus insignis 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

96 Golden-green Woodpecker Piculus chrysochloros chrysochloros 1 Transpantaneira 9.7 and 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

97 Green-barred Woodpecker Colaptes melanochloros nattereri 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

98 Campo Flicker Colaptes campestris campestris 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

99 Pale-crested Woodpecker Celeus lugubris lugubris 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

100 Cream-colored Woodpecker Celeus flavus flavus 1 Transpantaneira 13.7

101 Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus lineatus 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 2 Transpantaneira 12.7

102 Crimson-crested Woodpecker Campephilus melanoleucos melanoleucos 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

103 Southern Crested Caracara Caracara plancus 2 Foz do Iguaçu 7.7, 10 Transpantaneira 9.7, 10 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

104 Yellow-headed Caracara Milvago chimachima chimachima 2 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7

105 Laughing Falcon Herpetotheres cachinnans cachinnans 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 1 Transpantaneira 11.7

106 Bat Falcon Falco rufigularis ophryophanes 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

107 Monk Parakeet Myiopsitta monachus cotorra 10 Transpantaneira 9.7, 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 10 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 35 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

108 Yellow-chevroned Parakeet Brotogeris chiriri chiriri 2 Foz do Iguaçu 8.7, 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 12 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 5 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

109 Scaly-headed Parrot Pionus maximiliani siy 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 3 Transpantaneira 11.7

110 Red-spectacled Amazon Amazona pretrei 2 Foz do Iguaçu 2.7

111 Turquoise-fronted Amazon Amazona aestiva xanthopteryx 25 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 100 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

112 Hyacinth Macaw Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus 8 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7, 8 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7, 4 Porto Jofre 12.7, 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

113 Peach-fronted Parakeet Eupsittula aurea 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7, 5 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

114 Nanday Parakeet Aratinga nenday 4 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

115 Golden-collared Macaw Primolius auricollis 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

116 Blue-and-yellow Macaw Ara ararauna 8 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

117 Blue-crowned Parakeet Thectocercus acuticaudatus acuticaudatus 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

118 Pale-legged Hornero Furnarius leucopus assimilis 3 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 heard Transpantaneira 13.7 and 2 heard Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

119 Rufous Hornero Furnarius rufus commersoni: 5 Transpantaneira 9.7, 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 20 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 15 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7 rufus: 1 Foz do Iguaçu 5.7

120 Chotoy Spinetail Schoeniophylax phryganophilus phryganophilus 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 ♂ Transpantaneira 12.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

121 White-lored Spinetail Synallaxis albilora albilora 3 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

122 Rusty-backed Spinetail Cranioleuca vulpina vulpina 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

123 Yellow-chinned Spinetail Certhiaxis cinnamomeus russeolus 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7, 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7 and 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

124 Rufous-fronted Thornbird Phacellodomus rufifrons sincipitalis 4 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

125 Greater Thornbird Phacellodomus ruber 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 4 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 7 Transpantaneira 12.7

126 Grey-crested Cacholote Pseudoseisura unirufa 4 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

127 Buff-browed Foliage-gleaner Syndactyla rufosuperciliata acrita 1 Iguaçu NP 4.7

128 Olivaceous Woodcreeper Sittasomus griseicapillus griseicapillus 3 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

129 Great Rufous Woodcreeper Xiphocolaptes major remoratus 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

130 Straight-billed Woodcreeper Dendroplex picus peruvianus 2 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7

131 Buff-throated Woodcreeper Xiphorhynchus guttatus dorbignyanus 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

132 Narrow-billed Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes angustirostris bivittatus 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

133 Red-billed Scythebill Campylorhamphus trochilirostris lafresnayanus 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

134 Great Antshrike Taraba major major 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7, 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7 and 5 heard Transpantaneira 13.7

135 Barred Antshrike Thamnophilus doliatus radiatus 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

136 Planalto Slaty Antshrike Thamnophilus pelzelni Endemic 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

137 Large-billed Antwren Herpsilochmus longirostris 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

138 Rusty-backed Antwren Formicivora rufa rufa 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

139 Mato Grosso Antbird Cercomacra melanaria 2 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7

140 Band-tailed Antbird Hypocnemoides maculicauda 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

141 Forest Elaenia Myiopagis gaimardii gaimardii 2 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7

142 Southern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma obsoletum cinerascens 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7, 2 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 3 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

143 White-bellied Tyrannulet Serpophaga munda 1 Transpantaneira 12.7

144 Plain Inezia Inezia inornata 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

145 Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant Hemitriccus margaritaceiventer margaritaceiventer 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

146 Rusty-fronted Tody-Flycatcher Poecilotriccus latirostris ochropterus 1 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7

147 Common Tody-Flycatcher Todirostrum cinereum coloreum 2 Foz do Iguaçu 2.7, 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

148 Yellow-olive Flatbill Tolmomyias sulphurescens pallescens 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

149 Fuscous Flycatcher Cnemotriccus fuscatus bimaculatus 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

150 Tropical Pewee Contopus cinereus cinereus 1 Foz do Iguaçu 1.7

151 Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus rubinus 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

152 White-rumped Monjita Xolmis velatus 1 Transpantaneira 9.7

153 Black-backed Water Tyrant Fluvicola albiventer 2 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 4 Transpantaneira 13.7

154 White-headed Marsh Tyrant Arundinicola leucocephala 1 Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro 30.6, 4 Transpantaneira 9.7 and 1 Transpantaneira 13.7

155 Cattle Tyrant Machetornis rixosa rixosa 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 2 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7, 2 Porto Jofre 12.7 and 5 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

156 Rusty-margined Flycatcher Myiozetetes cayanensis cayanensis 1 Porto Jofre 12.7, 3 Transpantaneira 13.7 and 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

157 Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus maximiliani 2 Foz do Iguaçu 1.7, 15 Transpantaneira 9.7, 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 10 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

158 Lesser Kiskadee Philohydor lictor lictor 3 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 6 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

159 Boat-billed Flycatcher Megarynchus pitangua pitangua 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

160 Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus melancholicus 2 Várzea Grande-Cuiabá area, incl the airport 9.7 and 1 Transpantaneira 12.7

161 Rufous Casiornis Casiornis rufus 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

162 Short-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus ferox australis 4 Transpantaneira 9.7

163 Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus tyrannulus 1 Transpantaneira 9.7, 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

164 White-eyed Attila Attila bolivianus bolivianus 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

165 Helmeted Manakin Antilophia galeata 1 ♂ Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

166 Band-tailed Manakin Pipra fasciicauda scarlatina 1 heard Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

167 Black-crowned Tityra Tityra inquisitor inquisitor 2 Iguaçu NP 4.7

168 Rufous-browed Peppershrike Cyclarhis gujanensis gujanensis 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

169 Red-eyed Vireo Vireo olivaceus chivi 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

170 Ashy-headed Greenlet Hylophilus pectoralis 2 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7

171 Purplish Jay Cyanocorax cyanomelas 1 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7, 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

172 White-winged Swallow Tachycineta albiventer 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 10 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 15 Transpantaneira 13.7

173 Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea macrorhamphus 10 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7 and 15 Transpantaneira 13.7

174 Brown-chested Martin Progne tapera fusca 5 Transpantaneira 13.7

175 Blue-and-white Swallow Notiochelidon cyanoleuca cyanoleuca 2 Várzea Grande-Cuiabá area, incl the airport 9.7 and 5 Transpantaneira 11.7

176 Southern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx ruficollis ruficollis 20 Porto Jofre 12.7

177 Black-capped Donacobius Donacobius atricapilla atricapilla 2 Transpantaneira 9.7, 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 5 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

178 Thrush-like Wren Campylorhynchus turdinus unicolor 4 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

179 Moustached Wren Pheugopedius genibarbis intercedens Endemic 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

180 Buff-breasted Wren Cantorchilus leucotis peruanus 2 Transpantaneira 13.7

181 Fawn-breasted Wren Cantorchilus guarayanus 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

182 House Wren Troglodytes aedon bonariae 1 Foz do Iguaçu 1.7

183 Masked Gnatcatcher Polioptila dumicola dumicola 4 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7, 4 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 8 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

184 Chalk-browed Mockingbird Mimus saturninus 2 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7 frater: 2 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

185 Rufous-bellied Thrush Turdus rufiventris rufiventris 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

186 Pale-breasted Thrush Turdus leucomelas leucomelas 6 Foz do Iguaçu 2.7

187 Creamy-bellied Thrush Turdus amaurochalinus 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

188 House Sparrow Passer domesticus domesticus 10 Foz do Iguaçu 1.7 and 5 Transpantaneira 13.7

189 Yellowish Pipit Anthus lutescens lutescens 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

190 Purple-throated Euphonia Euphonia chlorotica serrirostris 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

191 Tropical Parula Setophaga pitiayumi pitiayumi 3 Iguaçu NP 4.7

192 Flavescent Warbler Myiothlypis flaveola flaveola 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

193 Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus azarae 2 Iguaçu NP 4.7

194 Crested Oropendola Psarocolius decumanus maculosus 2 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

195 Solitary Cacique Cacicus solitarius 1 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7, 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

196 Yellow-rumped Cacique Cacicus cela cela 10 Pousada Rio Claro 11.7 and 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

197 Red-rumped Cacique Cacicus haemorrhous affinis 2 Foz do Iguaçu 2.7 and 4 Iguaçu NP 7.7

198 Orange-backed Troupial Icterus croconotus strictifrons 1 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7, 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

199 Variable Oriole Icterus pyrrhopterus periporphyrus 5 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

200 Giant Cowbird Molothrus oryzivorus oryzivorus 20 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

201 Shiny Cowbird Molothrus bonariensis bonariensis 2 Foz do Iguaçu 2.7 and 100 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

202 Scarlet-headed Blackbird Amblyramphus holosericeus 1 Transpantaneira 11.7 and 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

203 Chopi Blackbird Gnorimopsar chopi chopi 5 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 3 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

204 Greyish Baywing Agelaioides badius badius 4 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

205 Unicolored Blackbird Agelasticus cyanopus cyanopus 3 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 5 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

206 Bananaquit Coereba flaveola chloropyga 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

207 Rufous-collared Sparrow Zonotrichia capensis subtorquata 1 Rio de Janeiro 30.6

208 Saffron-billed Sparrow Arremon flavirostris devillii 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

209 Red-crested Cardinal Paroaria coronata 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

210 Yellow-billed Cardinal Paroaria capitata capitata 10 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 5 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7, 40 Porto Jofre 12.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

211 Cinnamon Tanager Schistochlamys ruficapillus ruficapillus 1 Rio de Janeiro 30.6

212 Orange-headed Tanager Thlypopsis sordida sordida 1 Transpantaneira 12.7

213 Black-goggled Tanager Trichothraupis melanops 2 Iguaçu NP 4.7

214 Silver-beaked Tanager Ramphocelus carbo carbo 2 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7, 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 20 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 30 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

215 Sayaca Tanager Thraupis sayaca sayaca 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

216 Palm Tanager Thraupis palmarum palmarum 20 Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro 30.6, 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 2 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

217 Fawn-breasted Tanager Pipraeidea melanonota melanonota 5 Iguaçu NP 4.7

218 Blue Dacnis Dacnis cayana paraguayensis 1 Iguaçu NP 4.7

219 Chestnut-vented Conebill Conirostrum speciosum speciosum 1 Foz do Iguaçu 1.7

220 Red Pileated Finch Coryphospingus cucullatus rubescens 4 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

221 Saffron Finch Sicalis flaveola pelzelni 100 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

222 Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina jacarina 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

223 Rusty-collared Seedeater Sporophila collaris ochrascens 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

224 White-bellied Seedeater Sporophila leucoptera leucoptera 10 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

225 Chestnut-bellied Seed Finch Oryzoborus angolensis angolensis 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7

226 Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens superciliaris 2 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7, 1 Transpantaneira 12.7 and 15 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

MAMMALS

1 Giant Armadillo Priodontes maximus 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 15.7

2 Southern Tamandua Tamandua tetradactyla 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7

3 Common Marmoset Callithrix jacchus Endemic 5 Rio de Janeiro 30.6

4 Black-tailed Marmoset Mico melanurus 10 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

5 Azaras's Capuchin Cebus cay 5 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 15 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

6 Tapeti Sylvilagus brasiliensis 2 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 15.7

7 Capybara Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris 10 Transpantaneira 11.7, 15 Porto Jofre 12.7 and 20 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

8 Azara's Agouti Dasyprocta azarae 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 2 Transpantaneira 11.7, 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 12.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

9 Jaguar Panthera onca 2 Rio Corixo Negro, NE Porto Jofre 12.7

10 Crab-eating Fox Cerdocyon thous 2 Pousada Rio Claro 9.7 and 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

11 Giant Otter Pteronura brasiliensis 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 1 Rio Corixo Negro, NE Porto Jofre 12.7

12 South American Coati Nasua nasua 2 Iguaçu NP 4.7, 4 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7 and 8 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

13 Marsh Deer Blastocerus dichotomus 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

14 Red Brocket Mazama americana 2 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7

15 Proboscis Bat Rhynchonycteris naso 25 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7.

16 Lowland Tapir Tapirus terrestris 1 male Poso Alegre Lodge 13.7 (night drive). Same individual seen in the afternoon the following day

REPTILES

1 Large-headed Pantanal Swamp Turtle Acanthochelys macrocephala 1 Transpantaneira 11.7

2 Green Iguana Iguana iguana 1 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7 and 2 Porto Jofre 12.7

3 Argentine Black and White Tegu Tupinambis merianae 1 Jaguar Ecological Reserve (Lodge) 11.7 and 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 14.7

4 Golden Tegu Tupinambis teguixin 1 Transpantaneira 11.7

5 Bothropoides matogrossensis Bothropoides matogrossensis 1 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

6 Yacare Caiman Caiman yacare yacare 30 Transpantaneira 9.7, 50 Pousada Rio Claro 10.7, 100 Porto Jofre 12.7 and 50 Pouso Alegre Lodge 13.7

Checklist generated by the iGoTerra tool MyTrips; www.igoterra.com Observations by Erling Jirle & Ricardo Parrini. Photos of jaguar (female with cubb) and Christer & Kristina saw a Giant Anteater, Myrmecophaga tridactyla 13.7 at Pouso Alegre.