SEA FURL

MODEL 2636

Owners Manual and

Installation Instructions

HOOD YACHT SYSTEMS

SEA FURL 2 OWNER’S MANUAL

DRUM DRIVE MODEL 2636

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Page 1 Customer Assembly Diagram Page 2 – 9 Assembly Instructions Page 3 Tools Required Page 10 Assembling Norseman Top Terminal Page 11 – 16 Installation Page 15 Furling Line Page 17 – 18 Sea Furl Sails Page 19 Maintenance Page 19 Swivel Assembly Page 20 Drum Assembly Page 21 Troubleshooting

1

CUSTOMER ASSEMBLY

1. Halyard Swivel Assembly 2. Drum Drive Assembly 3. Snapshackles (2) 4. Aluminum Feed Section 5. 1/8” Roll Pin 6. Splice Piece 7. Feed Section Bearing Tube 8. Headstay 9. Marine Eye 10. Aluminum Luff Section 11. Plastic Bearing Tube 12. Core Clamp 13. Socket Head Screw (2) 14. Lock Nut (2) 15. Spring Guard/Furling Arm

Assembly Figure 1

2

SEA FURL MODEL 2636 ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS

Please read the following instructions thoroughly before attempting assembly of the Sea Furl Model 2626. NOTE: One of the characteristics of the Sea Furl is that it is a free-turning system. If undue force is necessary, something is wrong. The system should be checked for installation and/or maintenance problems. The Sea Furl Model 2636 is designed to use a 3/16” or 1/4” diameter 1 x 19 wire ropw headstay with a swaged marine eye at the lower end. A Norseman or Staylock terminal is recommended at the top, since it can be disassembled to allow replacement of parts if necessary. An eye terminal may be used as a second choice. A toggle must be installed at both masthead and stemhead as with any headstay to reduce fatiguing loads. Link plates may be used at the stemhead for length adjustment, if desired. Turnbuckles cannot be used. HEADSTAYS The extrusion that fits over the headstay and the clamp that fits over the bottom terminal are really the only differences between the Sea Furl Model 2636 and a normal headstay. Note the lay of the headstay wire, and be sure to install the furling line so that it tightens the lay of the wire when Furling.

1 . New boat without turnbuckle in headstay: Order the boat without the upper terminal installed, and use the headstay as delivered.

2. New boat with a turnbuckle in the headstay: If it is not possible to order another headstay with the boat, measure the supplied headstay with the turnbuckle 2/3 extended and make a new headstay to this length (with the upper terminal installed after assembly).

3. Existing boat: Unfortunately a new headstay must be made. Since the terminal has to be cut off the headstay to permit installation of the Sea Furl, the existing headstay would be too short to use.

3

TOOLS REQUIRED: 5/32” Allen wrench Needlenose pliers Adjustable wrench

Hacksaw File Measuring tape Loc-Tite Fluid

INSTRUCTIONS:

1. Remove contents from shipping carton.

2. Referring to the CUSTOMER ASSEMBLY drawing (Figure 1), lay all parts out as shown.

3. The halyard swivel [1] and drive drum [2] are pre-assembled.

4. Attach the snapshackles [3] as shown in Figure 1. These are for the sail head and tack, and will rotate with the luff.

5. Slip the feed section [4] into the drum and secure in place with the 1/8” roll pin [5]. There is a notch in the feed section for the roll pin. Use a marine sealant between the drum and the feed section to keep water from running down the luff slots.

6. Slip a splice piece [6] into the feed section. It should go half way in. If not, make sure the feed section bearing tube [7] is in place.

7. Determine the correct headstay length in the following manner (see Figure 2):

8. Accurately measure the Overall Length [L] of the headstay [8]. This is the distance from the centre of the clevis pin in the masthead, to the centre of the clevis pin in the stemhead. (Enter results in Table 1, Line A)

9. Accurately measure the pin to pin length of the Masthead Toggle [M] and the Stemhead Toggle [S]. (Enter results in Table 1, Line B & C)

IMPORTANT CAUTION: All headstays must have a toggle on each end to avoid fatiguing the wire and

end fittings causing failure of the structure.

4

Figure 2.

5

TABLE 1

Lines Descriptions Dimensions

A Overall Length [L] (Masthead Pin to Stemhead Pin)

B Stemhead Toggle [S] (Pin centre to pin centre)

C Masthead Toggle [M] (Pin centre to pin centre)

D Stemhead link plates (if used) (Pin centre to pin centre)

E Norseman eye reductions (See Norseman Table)

F Wire stretch deduction (See Table 2)

G Finished Wire Length

Subtract Lines B, C, D, E and F from A to get finished wire length G NORSEMAN DEDUCTION TABLE Wire Size Deduction

3/16” 5mm 1 1/8”

1/4” 6mm 1 1/2”

TABLE 2 Wire Size Wire Stretch Deduction

3/16” 5mm 3/4”

1/4” 6mm 7/8”

6

10. Determine the Norseman Deduction (from Norseman Table) matching

headstay size. (Enter correct amount in Table 1, Line E)

11. Determine the Wire Stretch Deduction (from Table 2) matching your headstay size. (Enter correct amount in Table 1, Line F)

12. Determine the correct Headstay Length by subtracting lines B, C, D, E and F from line A. This is the length your wire must be cut from the pin centre of the lower marine eye [9] (stemhead) to the top end (masthead). Make sure to tape the wire where it is to be cut to ensure it does not inlay.

13. Assemble the luff sections [10] (see Figure 1) with the feed section. Also see Figure 3 for the splice detail.

STEP 1 - Remove splice piece from feed section and push it up into A luff

section. STEP 2 - Slide luff sections together (Figure 3, Step 1) STEP 3 - Slide swivel over this joint. STEP 4 - Push bearing tube [11] (and therefore splice piece] down from top

end. STEP 5 - Slip splice piece into luff section. It should go half way in. STEP 6 - Remove splice piece from luff section and push it up into next luff

section. STEP 7 - Repeat steps 2 through 6 until extrusion is roughly as long as

headstay. NOTE: The plastic bearing tube has a smaller inside diameter than the

aluminium splice pieces

7

8

Figure 4

9

14. (See Figure 4). Lay the headstay wire out alongside the assembled sections with the marine eye as shown. (Bottom of core clamp [12] even with bottom of marine eye shank).

15. Sawcut the extrusion and bearing tube 2 1/2” from the cut end of the wire (as shown in Figure 4)

16. Deburr the cut end of the wire.

17. Slide the headstay up through the drum and bearing tubes. It may be helpful to rotate the wire in the direction of the lay.

18. Fasten the core clamp to the marine eye by tightening the socket head screws [13] and the lock nuts [14]. This also fastens the spring guard/furling arm assembly [15].

10

19. Assembling the Norseman Upper Terminal

Place terminal body on wire. Unlay outer strands one turn.

Apply locktite to both threads and screw eye into body and tighten.

Slip cone over second layer of strands. One wire diameter protruding beyond cone. Twist outer strands back.

Unscrew to inspect and insure strands are evenly spaced and neatly closed over cone.

Bend outer strands in to centre strands with pliers from point where taper reverses.

Apply marine sealant to blind hole in eye and reassemble. Repeat until sealant oozes from wire end of body. Tighten eye and lock nut.

Start mating threads, using terminal end or the Norseman starter tool.

11

20. Carefully hoist into place on the boat taking care to keep the luff sections as straight as possible to avoid bending them or the splice pieces.

21. Due to the great variations in masthead construction, sail stretch, and individual halyard loads, the following sail installation steps should be carefully followed. If you install your Sea Furl 2 as follows, a smoothly operating system will be assured. STEP 1 - Attach the head of the sail to the lower shackle of the halyard swivel but

DO NOT attach the tack. STEP 2 - Feed the sail into one of the luff grooves as you hoist it. A pre-feeder

(A-2268) may be purchased separately from your Hood Yacht Systems distributor or dealer to facilitate this operation.

STEP 3 - Hoist the swivel and sail as high as it will go without straining, and

secure. STEP 4 - Down haul the sail utilizing a spare line temporarily attached to the sail

tack and lead through the line drive sheave shackle until the maximum desired luff tension is achieved (See Figure 5).

STEP 5 - Furl and unfurl the sail several times while watching the halyard swivel

to see if it is rotating smoothly and NOT being restricted in its operation.

STEP 6 - If the final distance between the sailt tack and drum drive shackle (“X”)

is greater than 6 inches, the temporary lashing should be replaced with a permanent wire pennant. If this distance (“X”) is less than 6 inches, a permanent lashing (a minimum of 3 turns of line) can be used.

DO NOT put the sail tape into the luff grooves below the feed slots as

this will prevent the sail from being smooth when reefed.

12

Figure 5.

Figures 6 through 11 illustrate conditions that are frequently encountered at the masthead when installing a sail for the first time. Upon examining these illustrations, it will be noticed that the halyard swivel must be restrained with either a force pulling aft or by being hoisted so close to the masthead sheave that very little halyard is exposed. This will prevent the halyard from wrapping around the headstay when reefing.

13

Figure 6 An ideal circumstance. The halyard swivel is hoisted to the end of the luff sections and has an angle (aft) between the headstay and the halyard sheave of 15° to 30°.

Figure 7. The swivel is too low, decreasing the angle between the headstay sheave and halyard sheave to 6°. While this installation may function, it would be better to install a pennant.

Figure 8. The pennant increases the height and angle of the swivel to the headstay. Pennants may be installed on the tack of the sail instead of at the head. This provides better leeward visibility and reduces possible damage to the sail from seas coming aboard.

14

Figure 9. Shows a common problem caused by location of the masthead sheave. A “bad” angle (no aft restraining force) is created between the headstay and sheave. This condition is aggravated by the swivel not being high enough on the luff section.

Figure 10. Here the swivel height is improved so that there is a better angle and the exposed halyard is much shorter.

Figure 11. Another alternative is to install a strap bale or block that restrains the halyard. Without such a device, the condition illustrated in Figure 9 would cause halyard wrap problems.

15

21. (cont’d): Halyards wrapping around the headstay are usually caused by:

i. The sail is too short on the luff and no pennant has been attached.

ii. Excessive halyard tension.

iii. Halyard swivel bearings are contaminated with salt or dirt particles.

iv. The halyard sheave creates a bad angle with the halyard swivel.

22. INSTALLATION OF FURLING LINE (not supplied)

Use 1/4” braided rope, 2.5 times the length of the boat. Install furling line by passing through the fairlead eye, through the hole in the drum bottom, and tying a small figure 8 knot in the line. INSTALLING FURLING LINE ON BOAT The furling line must lead perpendicular to the axis of the headstay (Figure 12). Position the first block on the deck to achieve this lead. The line should then be lead back to the cockpit through small blocks. Do not run through shackles or excessive friction will result (Schaeffer 01-03 or equivalent blocks should be used; the one on the fore deck will need a padeye, while the others may be attached to stanchion bases). As mentioned before, the furling line should be 1/4” braided line, 2.5 times the length of the boat.

16

Figure 12

17

23. Sea Furl Sails: Referring to Figure 12, measure precisely the distance from the top of the halyard sheave (at the masthead) to the centre of the stemhead pin (Dimension”E”). From Dimension “E”, subtract 22”. (10” for the drum drive assembly with toggle and shackle and 12” for the halyard swivel with shackle). This will give you the maximum luff dimension for your sail when it is fully stretched. TABLE 1 Overall length from Sheave top to stemhead pin “E”

Halyard swivel deduction including shackles 12”

Drum drive assembly including shackle and toggle 10”

Link plates (centre of pin to pin) if used

Maximum sail luff length

Hood Gemini single or double bolt rope tape must be used on the luff so that the sail easily slides up and down yet doesn’t pull out in heavy air. On small to medium length boats (up to 35’ LOA) 1/2” webbing loops should be sewn to the head and tack of the sail to replace cringles. These loops should be 2” to 3” longer than the corner of the sail. Their use creates a much tighter roll, improving sail shape and eliminating the need for swivel shackles. The webbing can easily twist 90° to allow the sail to lie flat against the luff sections when reefed. Cringles and twist shackles promote wrinkly furls. Standard cringles may be used, of course, if swivel shackles or lashing are used with them, but they do bear on the section. If you use lashing, it should be left long enough to twist 90° when reefed. You should use a “D” shackle in the head and tack.

18

Your sailmaker should terminate the bolt rope portion of the luff tape approximately 24” down from the head and 24” up from the tack. This provides better reefed shapes in the same manner as not attaching the the luff grooves at the tack. If your sail has a leech line or foot line installed, release it when you reef and reset it after reefing to avoid it folding over on itself causing unnecessary stress and wrinkles along the luff. If extreme halyard tension has been applied to alter sail shape when sailing, it is advisable to ease the halyard once the sail is furled to relieve the static load on the swivel bearing. This is especially true if the boat will not be used for a few days.

19

24. MAINTENANCE

The Sea Furl must be inspected annually. To keep your unit operating efficiently and properly the following should be done:

i. The extrusion should be cleaned and inspected, looking for nicks, excessive wear or salt build-up.

ii. The cover on the halyard swivel should be removed and the sealed bearing re-coated with a marine lubricant or an anti-corrosive agent such as “Neverseize”.

iii. The drum must be disassembled and the bearings inspected for corrosion as well as friction while turning. If either condition is present, replace the affected bearing; then recoat the bearing with a marine lubricant or “Neverseize” before reassembly.

25. SWIVEL ASSEMBLY Fit swivel bearing onto swivel slide. Coat with marine grease and fit into swivel body, and lock in with large snap ring. Fit diaphragm seal with shoulder toward the bearing and slide until the snap ring groove is exposed, and lock in place with the small snap ring. Fasten snap shackle to bottom of swivel slide. Slide the assembled halyard swivel onto the extrusion with the snap shackle toward the drum.

Figure 13

20

26. DRUM ASSEMBLY

i. Slide ball bearing

onto core clamp, coat with marine grease, then slide this assembly into the drum and lock in with the large snap ring.

ii. Slide diaphragm seal with shoulder toward the bearing until the snap ring groove is exposed and lock into place with the second snap ring.

iii. Slide assembled drum onto the headstay down over the lower eye terminal. Place the clamp portion over the eye terminal and install the two allen head screws into the upper holes and tighten.

iv. Install the snap shackle onto the drum.

21

27. TROUBLESHOOTING

PROBLEM PROBABLE CAUSE

SOLUTION

Genoa halyard wrapped around headstay

1. Check to be sure the halyard swivel is within 12 inches of the masthead sheave.

2. Check halyard swivel eye for free turning 3. Inspect inside of in swivel for excessive

wear and play 4. A few boats have the genoa halyard sheave

so close to the headstay there is no load aft to keep halyard swivel from rotating. A smaller sheave to make a 15° angle between headstay and halyard will solve the problem

Spinnaker halyard caught in halyard swivel

Flip spinnaker halyard behind spreaders (may require masthead modification)

1. Unit furls partially and jams

Furling line jammed in drum

Remove wrap – put drag on furling line when unrolling by a) Bending stainless steel spring guard in or b) Leaving one wrap around furling winch in

cockpit 2. Halyard swivel

cannot be fully hoisted

Less than full-hoist sails or pennant too short

Add pennants to sails that are not full hoist. Pennants must be attached to head of sail and bottom fitting of halyard swivwl to bring swivel within 12” of sheave.

Excess friction in furling line

1. Check alignment of drum fairlead to make sure it is not chafing or excessively bending furling line

2. Ensure furling line is led through a minimum number of small blocks, not just shackles or stantion bases

Extrusion jammed against swedge or core clamp

Remove locking pin, remove extrusion and check 2” insertion (see Page 2, Installing Extrusion)

Furling line partially jammed in drum

See PROBLEM 1 above

3. Difficulty in furling: system furls completely but with much difficulty

Corrosion of bearings

1. Disassemble drum and replace drum bearings.

2. Send halyard swivel to Hood yacht Systems for swivel bearing replacement.

4. Drum & clamp slide up terminal

Clamp bolts have loosened

Loosen clamp, reposition furling drum on terminal, tighten clamp.