ocean waves essential question how does ocean water work? objectives identify parts of a wave...
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Ocean WavesEssential Question
How does ocean water work?
ObjectivesIdentify parts of a waveExplain the process that causes waves to breakDescribe different ocean currents
WavesA wave is a rhythmic movement that carries
energy through matter or space.As a wave passes, only energy moves
forward, while the water molecules move around in circles and stay near their original position.
Waves are created by friction from wind.
Wave Characteristics
Wave CharacteristicsThe crest is the high point of a wave.The trough is the low point of a wave.Wavelength is the horizontal distance
between the crests or between the troughs of two waves.
Wave height is the vertical distance between crest and trough.
Half the distance of the wave height is called the amplitude of a wave.
Wave HeightDepends on three
factors:Wind SpeedWind DurationFetch
Expanse of water wind blows across
BreakersWaves lose energy and slow down as they reach
the shore, due to friction with the beachIncoming crests catch up to slower crests aheadsmaller crest-crest wavelengthWaves become higher, steeper, and unstableThe crests collapse forward
Wave Breaking
Ocean CurrentsDensity Current
Due to difference in temp. and salinityMove slowly in deep ocean waters
Surface CurrentWind-drivenWest to east due to prevailing westerlies
UpwellingUpwelling is the upward motion of ocean
waterWater is cold because it originates from the
bottom