The VOLUME VI, NUMBER 3, FALL 1997

Chile Pepper Institute -

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http://www.nmsu.edu/-hotchile/index.htmI E-mail: hotchile@nmsu.edu

Introducing Peruvian Aji Chiles The Spanish word "aji" commonly refers to

fruits of Capsicum baccatum. The phonetic, a' hee, was imported by the Spanish to Peru from the native Arawak peoples of the Caribbean. In the Quechuan language of the Incas, chiles are called "uchu." The chiles of Peru are consid- ered by some to be a "lost crop" of the Incas. Not all chiles grown in Peru are C. baccatum.

The chiles of Peru are considered by some to be a "lost crop" of the Incas.

Our friend and fellow Institute member, Stefan Bederski of Agro-Export Topara in Lima, Peru, has written descriptions of some of the common aji varieties found in Peru. We have grown the varieties in our greenhouse at New Mexico State University and identified the species of each variety.

If you are interested in obtaining these vari- eties for your business, please contact Tom Payne at The Peruvian Aji Collection, P.O. Box 281525, San Francisco, CA 94128; 1-800-442-5777;

Amazon Jungle), it is available year-round in the Peruvian market. Harvest season on the coast wheremost of the Aji Amarillo is planted begins in mid-December and continues until late March. This variety is used almost daily in all dishes in Peru, either as a sauce on the plate with other fare or as an ingredient in the dishes themselves. The A$ Amarillo variety has existed in Peru since ancient Inca times, where it is de- picted in drawings and pottery. (Heat scale: 7)

Aji Panca (Capsicum chinense) Aji Panca is the second most common aji va-

riety in Peru and is grown mainly near the coast. This variety measures 3 to 5 inches long and 1 to 1 1 /2 inches across. The pod flesh is medium thick with a berry flavor and fruit overtones. Aji Panca has the same fruit shape and appear- ance as the Aji Amarillo, but is a deep red to burgundy color when ripe. Aji Panca is sun- dried at the farms and sold as dry whole pods on the national market. Fresh Aji Panca is not found in the marketplace. It is a very mild aji and has zero heat if seeds and veins are

yr Descriptions

Aji Amarillo or Escabeche (Capsicum baccatum var. pendulum)

The Aji Amarillo is the most common aji in Peru. In the United States, it is sometimes re- ferred to as the "yellow chile" or "yellow Pe- ruvian chile." The pods are 4 to 5 inches long and a deep orange color when mature. The thin-fleshed pods have a fruity flavor with berry overtones and a searing, clear pungency. Because the Aji A m d o is grown in all regions of the country (the coast, Andes, and the

m Aji Panca

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Permian Ajf Chiles, continuedfrom page I .

removed. The pads are usually left on plants to partially dry before harvest and for final sun-drymg. The Aji Panca is an excellent son- diment that is used almost daily because of its great taste and beautiful color. It is also used for making aji sauces, to flavor most fish dishes, and is popular as a powder to sprinkle over pizza (like oregano). (.Heat scale: 2)

Aji Limo (Capsicum chinense) Although this variety is referred to as the

Aji Limo, the word "Limo" has no real mean- ing nor translation and is a regional identifica- tion name given to it by the local people. The pod is small and measures 2 to 3 inches long by 1 to 1 1 /2 inches wide. Aji Limo has a red and yellow pod color that ripens into a deep red, yellow, or orange color. When dried, this aji becomes tapered and wrinkled. It is mostly grown and used on the northern coast of Peru, where it is very popular. It is a hot aji and used mostly fresh with seafood, especially in "ceviche," a marinated seafood dish. How- ever, in the Andes the Aji Limo finds great ac- ceptance as whole dried pods. It stores very

Aji Limo

well and, due to its high pungency, it is pre- ferred for spicing up foods during the cold winter nights. (Heat scale: 7-8)

Aji Ayucllo (Capsicum baccatum) Aji Ayucllo is an original and native name

that has no meaning nor translation. This aji variety is a small, thick-fleshed, oval-shaped aji. It is a wild capsicum variety found in the Peruvian jungle, central region, and Chan- chamayo and Villa Rica valleys. The Aji Ayucllo is not commercially grown but is grown mostly in backyards or harvested from wild plants. This variety can be found only in local farmers' markets. The Aji Ayucllo is eaten fresh with foods or used as an ingredient in preparing all types of dishes. (Heat scale: 7)

Aji Ayucllo

Aji Cereza (Capsicum annuum) The bi Cereza is similar in shape to a cherry,

thus its name, "Cereza," which means cherry in Spanish. The extremely hot pods are very small and round (cherry-like) measuring a maximum of 1 1 / 2 inches in diameter. The green immature pods develop into a deep red

The Chile Pepper Institute Newsletter Cathy Montes, Managing Editor Rena Lamllaga, Graphic DesignerKditsr Lilly Dominguez, Contributing Editor Rinted at NMSU Agricultural Communications

The Chile Pepper Institute NMSU, Box 30003, MSC 34, Las Cmces, NM 88003 (505) 646-3028 Email: hotchile@Lunsu.edu World Wide Web s i b

http:/~.nm~.edu/-hotchi1e/inde~.html A Non-Rofit, International Organization Devoted to

the Sbdy of Capsicums

Paul W. Bosland, Director DaniiHolterman-Coon, Administrative Assistant

The Chile Pepper Institute Board of Directors Bmmd Jean Cenmtes, Chair, Cervantes Enterprises,

Inc., Vado, NM Louis Biad, Las CNces, NM Paul W. Bosland. NMSU, Las Cruces. NM Dave DeWitt, ~ i e r y ~ o o d r ~ a ~ a z i n e ; ~ l b u ~ u a ~ u e ,

NM James Ferguson, Anthony Foods, Anthony, TX

Gene Jefferies.McIlhenny Co., Avery Island, LA Javiff Vargas, M U , Las Cmces, NM

New Mexico State University ex officio Directors Dr. Jerry Schickedanz, Dean, College of Agriculture

and Home Economics Dr. James Fiher, Chairman, DepL of Agronomy and

Horticulture Dr. Gary Cunningham, Director, Agricultural

Experiment Station

The Chile Pepper Institute Newsletter

color. This variety is found in all regions of the Peruvian jungle. No commercial growing of Aji Cereza exists. Although a few plants are grown on small farms, most of this aji is grown in backyards and can be found only in local markets. The Aji Cereza is eaten fresh with foods or used as an ingredient in preparing all types of dishes and sauces. (Heat scale: 9)

Aji Pinguita de Mono (Capsicum annuum) The Aji Pinguita de Mono is known all over

the country because of its unique name which translates loosely to "little monkey," because of the pod's size, shape, and color. The pods are very small, elongated, and pointed measuring 1/2 to 1 inch long. The pods mature to a deep red color. This variety is among the hottest little ajis known in Peru. The Aji Pinguita de Mono is found in all regions of the Peruvian jungle, mainly in the central valley of Chan- chamayo. This aji is grown in backyards or harvested from wild plants, but never grown commercially. The fruits are found only in local farmers' markets, and are almost never distrib- uted nationwide. The Aji Pinguita de Mono is eaten fresh with foods or used as an ingredient in preparing all types of dishes. (Heat scale: 9)

Aji Norteno (Capsicum baccatum) The name of the Aji Norteno translates to

"northern aji" because it is a variety that is only popular in the northern coastal valleys of Peru. Ripe pods mature to yellow, red, and orange colors and measure about 3 to 4 inches long and 3/4 inch across. Its shape is slightly curved and tapering to a point that is ideal for decora- tion of plates either whole or cut in rings. The Viru and Lambayeque valleys, about 1,000 km north of Lima, are the main production areas.

Aji Norteno

This variety is found only in regional and local markets. The Aji Norteno is a hot aji variety which is commonly eaten fresh with seafood. Northern people pledge that the Aji Norteno has a "better northern taste." (Heat scale: 6)

Aji Mono (Capsicum baccatum) The name of the Aji Mono translates to "mon-

key aji." This aji measures about 4 to 5 inches long and 3/4 inch across. The Aji Mono has a nice red color when ripe. This very hot aji is a bright scarlet and is slightly curved with a ta- pering point. This variety is grown in the Pe- ruvian jungle and found only at local farmers' markets. This medium-fleshed aji is used mostly fresh and is cut in pieces which is served with food or as an ingredient in dishes. People in the jungle eat very spicy foods and Aji Mono is a perfect condiment for their dishes. (Heat scale: 7)

Aji Mono

Aji Verde (Capsicum baccatum) Aji Verde is another aji variety found in the

northern coastal valleys of Peru, mainly in Lambayeque and Piura. The name translates to "green chile," however, the mature pods ripen into red and orange colors. The very hot pods of the Aji Verde are small, elongated and pointed, with medium flesh, measuring 2 to 3 inches long and 1/2 inch across. This variety is not commercially grown, but can be found growing in backyards or on farms cultivating a few plants. The Aji Verde is eaten fresh with foods and to make sauces. (Heat scale: 8)

Rocoto (Capsicum pubescens) Rocotos are widely grown in the Peruvian

Andes. The green pods of the Rocoto ripen to a yellow or red, and are rounded in shape. The

Continued on page 4.

Volume VI, Number 3, Fall 1997

P G & ~ Ajf ChUa, santhdfmm pw 3.

AjS Verde

pods measure about 2 1 /2 inches long and about 1 1 /2 inches in diameter. Rocotos are thick- fleshed with a fruity taste and tropical berry overtones. The high pungency gives them the regional expressions of h n h wuertos ("raising the dead") and @ngo huanucM rgringa Wer"). Rocotos have a characteristic flavor only found in the real cuisine of the southern city of Arequipa, home of Rocotos. There is a popular belief that the heat of Rocotos attacks the taste buds but is inoffensive to the digestive tract, consequently known to impart a "cold heat." The Rocoto is primarily used in salsas, sauces, and. ceviches. '

(Heat scale: 9)

Aji Pucomucho (Capsicum chime) Aji Pucomucho, a wild aji, has an original

and native name that has no meaning nor trans- lation and is found in the Peruvian jungle, cen- tral region, and Chanchamayo and Villa Rica valleys. This variety is a small, thin, elongated and pointed aji which matures to a bright yellow

color. The Aji Puncomucha is not comrnercidly grown, but is grown mostly in backyards or harvested from wild plants. This aji can be found only in local farmers' markets and is eaten fresh with foods or used as an ingredient in preparing all types of dishes. (Heat scale: 8)

Aji Pucomucho

Aj i Charapa (Capsicum chime) Aji Charapa is wild variety of aji found in the

northern region of the Peruvian jungle, close to the city of'Iquitos. In this area, the people are called "charapas," thus, the name of the Aji Charapa is derived from their name. The Aji Charapa is very small with a spherical shape measuring a maximum 1 /4 in diameter. The very hot pods are thin-fleshed and mature into a red and yellow color. This variety is not grown commercially, but mostly in backyards or is harvested from wild plants. The Aji Charapa is eaten fresh with foods or used as an ingredient in preparing all types of dishes. (Heat scale: 8) W

Meet the CPI Board (Part I) Louis Biad is the owner of the Biad Chile Com- the Chile Pepper Institute's exhibit at the New

pany, a red chile and paprika dehydrator com- Mexico Farm and Ranch Heritage Museum a pany that has been in Lag Cruces, N.M., for about reality. 30 years. The company's products are used in a Emma Jean Cervantes has owned Cervantes variety of ways, such as in oleoresin, spices, dif- Enterprises, Inc. and Cervantes Agribusiness ferent chile blends, breads, and sauces. Biad be- La Mesa, N.M., for 20 years. m e business is a lieves that "the Chile Pepper Institute has pro- family consortium that includes her son vided an invaluable service for many consum- and daughter Kristina. The chile ers, industry producers, farmers, and compa- plant specializes in hot sauce that nies." He creditxi the New Mexico Chile Confer- internationally. Cervantes is very involved in ence as being instrumental in helping to make(p* ,'--, civic and community projects. In 1993, she was

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recognized as one of the "Outstanding New Mexico Business Women." New Mexico State University's College of Agriculture and Home Economics honored Cervantes with the "Agri- culturist of Mstinction Award" in 1996. Future

* endeavors for Cervantes include promoting -+ 1

chile through the Chile Pepper Institute. Dave DeWitt is one of New Mexico's most -.

renowned chile heads. Involved in the fiery '

foods industry for just over a decade, DeWitt is i co-founder of the Chile Pepper Institute and j editor of the Fiery Foods Magazine. According to ' ' DeWitt, the growth of the industry and the in- terest in the Chile Pepper Institute has been phenomenal. He stated that, "many people have yet to experience the chile pepper and fiery

Recently, Frederick Teague, a CPI member, wrote us cursing the purslane weed (Portulaca oleracea) that was taking over his chile garden. As gardeners we can sympathize with Mr. Teague, but perhaps we can offer one solution. The Latin word, "oleracea" means edible, which means that purslane is an edible plant. Since an- cient times, purslane has been used as a veg- etable. It's believed that purslane origmally came from Iran or India.

Purslane is a popular vegetable in France and is cultivated commercially in Egypt and Sudan. This vegetable can be eaten raw or cooked as greens and tastes somewhat like watercress or spinach. Gene Lopez, a farm assistant at New Mexico State University's Fabian Garcia Horti- culture Center, provided us with the following recipe he obtained from his mother, Consuela,

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and his nmhew. Albert Benavidez. So if mrslane is -Ql.sing 6ver your gardwLyre-w~dend that

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food industry and the Chile Pepper Institute can help educate and inform them in m y differ- ent areas. Ocur exhibit at the New Mexico Farm and Ranch Her;itage Musgum'will help reach all of those people."

Pad Boslmd, CPI director, stated that "with- out the volunteer efforts and support of the board, the Chile Pepper Institute would not be the program that it is today. Each member brings his or her own unique experience and perspective to form an enthusiastic, innovative, and supportive Board of Directors."

Editor s note: Other members of the CPI Board of Directors will be profiled in the next issue qf the CPZ newsktter. w

Weed or Vegetable? instead of cursing this "weed," you try this recipe favorite and enjoy this wonderful veg- etable!

Verdulagas / Purslane

2 hands-full of fresh purslane leaves re- moved from stems

1 / 2 medium onion--diced 1 / 2 cup diced tomatoes, fresh or canned 1 /2 cup diced fresh jalapefios 1 /2 tablespoon vegetable oil

Add washed and drained purslane leaves to boiling water with a dash of salt. Let boil for five minutes, drain, and set aside. In a separate pan, sautb onions with vegetable oil, add jalapefios, and tomatoes. Sautb for 1 minute; add purslane. Simmer for 10 minutes, season to taste. W

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To order back issues of the Chile Pepper Institute Newsletter, contact The Chile Pepper Institute, NMSU, Box 30003,

Dept qQ, Las Cruces, NM 88003.

Volume VI, Number 3, Fall 1997 , =-- * .a<

C A P S I C U M N E W S In Memorium

The Chile Pepper Institute has lost a good friend and en- thusiastic supporter with the death of Martin Steinman. Steinrnan passed away on September 10 at his home fol- lowing a long-term illness.

As CEO and president of Border Foods, the world's ,

largest processor of chile and jalapefios and president of the New Mexico Food Processors Association, Ste' ~nman con- tributed iinmeasurably to the develovment of the chile in- dustry'in New Mexico. Steve Moore, vice president of sales at Border Foods, described Steinman as a "visionary who was unafraid of taking risks and probably one of the most respected individuals in this business.

Paul Bosland, CPI director, reflected on Steinman's con- tributions stating, "Martin's contributions to the Chile Pepper Institute were many.

He was one of its staunchest supporters, contributing both time and money. He served on the CPI Board of Directors since its inception and early this year he and his wife, Lilian, contributed $10,000 to the CPI-the largest individual endowment ever made to the organization."

Memorial contributions may be made to the Chabad Children's Fund, P.O. Box 30851, Albuquerque, NM 87190.

Doil't Try This at Home

The scientific journal Toxicon reported that drinking a quart and a half of Louisiana-style hot sauce will cause death by respiratory failure if your body weight is less than 140 pounds.

Martin and Lilian Steinman - --

Check Out Our New Look

Included in this issue of' your newsletter is one of our new and improved Chile Pep- per Institute brochures. We have arranged information in the brochure to make it easier to follow and read. We also have given the brochure a new look with brighter pictures and colors.

Don't hesitate to let a chile- loving friend borrow it!

Patent Medicines with Cayenne

In 1909 and again in 1912, the British Medical Association published two volumes con- cerning "secret remediesn-the classic patent medicines. The association performed chemi- cal analysis of these remedies, and found that many of them contained high quantities of capsicum or cayenne.

For example, the Home Doc- tor Backache and Kidney Pills promised to "induce the kid- neys to perform their proper functions." They contained 20 percent chile powder along with oil of juniper, potassium nitrate, magnesia, sugar, and soap.

Towle's Pennyroyal and Steel Pills contained an aston- ishing 43 percent chile powder, while Levasco ("The Great In- dian Gout and Rheumatic Cure") was a topical treat- ment. It guaranteed: "Earache cured in 2 minutes, toothache cured in 2 minutes, gout cured in a few hows."_It contained

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The Chile Pepper Institute Newsletter

- z;.4 :-: -% three of oleoresin cap- .-, - *- -: ,: sicum along with camphor, - - - . f - oil of lavender, oil of rose- ,,

- mary, and soap. -t

- Mother Siegel's Curative ,

Syrup contained tincture of capsicum, along with dilute hydrochloric acid, aloe, and water. It was touted as "a cure for impurities in the blood" as well as "a .cure for dyspepsia and liver complaints." The advertising copy, which ig- nored the tincture of capsi- cum, read: "So let's get rid of the smoke by putting out the fire, and purify our blood with Mother Siegel's Syrup, which will sweep away the poisons and make us healthy and strong."

Box's Pills and Golden Fire were ills and a liniment that were h e n together "in se- vere cases of rheumatism." The pills contained a large quantity of chile powder along with powdered gentian, flour, aloe, and soap. The liniment contained a decoction of cap- sicum plus the oils of amber,

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iosernary, eucalyptus, and camphor. Golden Fire Feated not only rheumatism but also gout, neuralgia, sprains,

- asthma, bronchitis, enlarged joints, and tumors. It was both rubbed on the throat and gargled with water as a cure for sore throat and diphtheria, and it was recommended for toothache as well.

Source: "Peppm Profile: Cay- enne," by Dave DeWitt, wia the Fie y Foods web site at htfp:// www.fiery-foods.com

- . Complete Your Peppati. . Ubra~y

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Now available from the Chile Pepper Institute is the much-sought-after Peppers of the World and The Pepper Gar- den by Dave DeWitt and Paul Bosland. If you're interested in receiving a copy of one of these books, please contact Danise at the Institute at (505) 646-3028 or e-mail your re- quest to hotchile@nmsu.edu. The books sell for $20 each.

Don't Lose Your News

Memberships will be expir- ing in December 1997. Check your mailing label for your membership expiration date. Renew by mailing the form . .

We finally have below. Don't miss out on the next members in 50 states. issue of The Chile P m e r I~lsti- Thanks to all of you for

spreading the word.

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tufe Newsletter!

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Feeling Sick? Add a Little Spice

Herbs and spices flavor and tenderize meat, but they also serve a more evolutionary signifi- cant purpose-killing contaminating bacteria, claims Paul Sherman, an evolutionary biologist at Comell University in Ithaca, New York.

Sherman and colleague, Jennifer Billing, looked at patterns of spice use in 4,164 traditional meat recipes from 31 countries. Onion, black and white pepper, garlic, lemon juice, chiles, and ginger proved among the most popular. When they combed the literature to determine what herbs and spices had been shown to have antibacterial effects, they found that many are "really power- ful antibiotics," Sherman reported last month at the annual meeting of the Animal Behavior So- ciety in College Park, Maryland.

Garlic, onion, allspice, and oregano killed all the bacteria they were tested against including

The Chile Pepper Institute NMSU, Box 30003, MSC 3Q Las Cruces, NM 88003 (505) 646-3028

Salmonella and Staphylococcus. Others, such as hot peppers, destroyed at least 75 percent of their bacterial targets.

The researchers say their case is bolstered by the fad that the hotter the c l j m a t ~ d thus the more danger of food spoilage-the more spices are used in a cuisine. Conversely, some spices low in antibiotic properties, such as celery seed, are not much used in southern cuisines.

"Most people think the only reason we use spices is because of the taste, but [Sherman] has gone beyond that," comments Zuleyma Tang- Martinez, an ethologist at the University of Mis- souri, St. Louis,

Source: Science Magazine, Vol. 277, July 18, 1997. W

. . Kc :-,< A Non-Profit, !nternationpl Organization Devoted ta the Study of Capsicums