HORTICULTURE

NEWSLETTER

November 2016

Bullitt County Master Gardeners

Meet on the 1st Tuesday of Each Month

Next Meeting is December 6th at 7pm

Bullitt County

384 Halls Ln.

Shepherdsville, Ky 40165

(502) 543-2257

Fax: (502) 543-6940

www.bullitt.ca.uky.edu

All classes offered by the Horticulture Program require preregistration. If you fail to preregister classes may be full, rescheduled or cancelled.

Please call 543-2257, to RSVP, if you plan on attending a class.

IN THIS ISSUE

Holiday Cactus

Bringing House Plants Indoors

Terraced Landscaping

Asian Lady Beetles and Boxelder Bugs

Plant A Tree

Gourds and Pinecones

2017 Class Schedule

Will be in the January newsletter

Lorilee George

Lorilee George Bullitt County Extension Agent for Horticulture

Garden Craft Ideas

Painted Okra

Garden Craft Ideas using Painted Pavers

Enjoying your Holiday Cactus By Dave Puckett/Bullitt County Master Gardener

Around some of

the major

holidays, it is not

unusual to see

lush pots or

indoor hanging

baskets filled

with holiday

cactus. Three

favorite members of the holiday cactus family are

the Thanksgiving cactus (Schlumbergera

truncate), the Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera

bridgesil), and the Easter cactus (Rhipsalidopsis

gaetneri).

At first glance, they all look alike and they do

have a few things in common. Native to the

forests of Brazil, they are all members of the

group of plants called leaf cacti. In nature, they

are epiphytes...plants that ‘grow on other plants

but are not parasitic, such as the numerous ferns,

bromeliads, air plants, and orchids growing on the

tree trunks in topical rain forests’ (OED). Their

plant bodies are, in truth, stems. The flowers are

produced from the notches between ‘leaves’ or

from the tips and last a long time.

There are, however, a few key differences

between the three.

The most

significant

difference, as their

names imply, is

the time of bloom.

The Thanksgiving cactus can bloom in the late

fall about a month before the Christmas cactus.

The Easter variety starts setting flower buds in

February.

Another difference between the three is fairly

easy to see in the shape of their ‘leaf’ segments.

Christmas cactus have smooth rounded edges,

Thanksgiving cactus have pointy, jagged ones,

and Easter cactus is known for the bristles that

can be found on the edge of their ’leaf’ segments.

The Easter cactus flowers are also more star

shaped.

Temperature and Day Length

No matter which of the holiday cacti you are

trying to nurture, there are a few general

considerations to keep in mind. The major items

on the holiday cactus wish list are few and

simple:

Temperature and day length

Watering

Fertilization

Proper soil

Holiday cacti set flower buds in response to

cool temperatures and shortened day length.

Martha Smith, University of Illinois Extension

Horticulture Educator, says that, “Thanksgiving

and Christmas cactus should be left outdoors,

away from artificial light, until night temperatures

drop into the 40s. At this time, they do best at

temperatures between 50 ° and 65 °F. Bring them

indoors and place them in a cool area, keeping

them away from all light between the hours of

5pm and 8am and water weekly. Avoid heating

vents that can cause temperature fluctuations. The

plants should come into flower sometime in

December or January. If you want them to bloom

sooner, start the cool temp/short day treatment

earlier.”

The Easter cactus has slightly different needs.

It requires a dry period. Smith suggests, “from

October to November, very little water is required

for flower bud initiation. Easter cactus should

also be placed in the same cool area under shorter

light periods at this time. In December, raise the

temperature to about 65 degrees and water

sparingly. Expect flowering around March.”

Continued on next page …..

….. continued from previous page

No matter which of the three types you have,

avoid high temperatures and heat changes when

the cactus is flowering.

Watering Water the soil when it is dry to the touch.

Holiday cacti are fairly tolerant of dry, slightly

under-watered conditions during the spring and

summer. Do not allow the soil to become

waterlogged (especially during the winter), but

don’t let it dry out completely either.

Fertilization

Fertilize your plants monthly from the time

new growth begins in the late winter or early

spring, and throughout the summer using a half-

strength water soluble fertilizer such as 20-10-20

or 20-20-20 with trace elements. Holiday cactus

have a higher need for magnesium than many

plants, so you may want to fertilize monthly,

during the growing season, with Epsom salts

(magnesium sulfate), mixed at 1 teaspoon per

gallon of water. Do not apply the Epsom salts the

same week as the regular fertilizer. If you will

stop fertilizing during late summer you should get

better flower bud production in the fall.

Proper soil All of the holiday cacti seem to prefer being

kept somewhat root bound. Repotting is only

necessary about once every three or four years.

When repotting, it is better to repot them in the

spring. The soil should be well-drained with good

aeration. A good soil mix might contain 60-80%

potting soil with 20-40% perlite. Always use a

good brand of potting soil which is pH balanced.

Regardless of your preference of a Holiday

cactus, all three offer abundant rich flowering

and lush green foliage to see you through the

holiday seasons.

Sources:

http://clemson.edu/extension/hgic/plants/

indoor/flowering/hgic1554.html

http://web.extension.illinois.edu/state/

newsdetail.cfm?NewsID=8570

http://www.hortmag.com/weekly-tips/qa/

easter-cactus-how-it-differs-from-christmas-

cactus#sthash.Jo6jchtP.dpuf

Easter cactus (R. gaertneri)

Thanksgiving Cactus

Christmas Cactus

Easter Cactus

Bringing Houseplants Indoors

If you brought house plants indoors to

overwinter them, here are a few tips on care.

When plants are outside, they require large

amounts of water due to increased light levels,

heat and wind evaporation. When they are

brought indoors, those light levels change as

well as temperatures and evaporation rates. More

houseplants die from overwatering than from

any other cause. Adjusting your watering routine

is essential for the plant’s continued survival.

Most plants benefit when the soil is allowed to

dry slightly between waterings. This dryness

ensures that

oxygen

penetrates to

the plant’s root

system. A plant

can be allowed

to wilt slightly

before it is

watered: thus giving an indication when water is

needed.

When watering, do so thoroughly in order to

moisten the entire soil ball. This leaches away

excess fertilizer salts which can build up and

burn roots. This results in burnt or dried leaf

edges and plants that wilt, even though they

seem to have plenty of water.

Place the entire pot in a container, fill with

water and allow it to soak up water. Then place

in an empty sink to drain for several minutes. Or

you can place the container in an empty sink and

pour water on top of the soil until water begins

to drain from the bottom. Do this procedure

twice.

Keep in mind that some plants, like ferns,

Rex begonias, Prayer Plant and Calatha, require

high humidity to grow well. Since most house

plants are actually tropical plants, they require

high humidity which can be a challenge due to

household heat. Plants can be placed in

bathrooms or kitchens where humidity is higher.

Plants will also require less fertilizer and

should be put through a leaching process

periodically. Mix 1 teaspoon Epsom salts in one

gallon of water. Place the plant in the bathtub

and pour the mixture into the pot, a little at a

time, until the water starts to come out the

bottom drain holes. Allow to drain and repeat

several more times.

Plants should not be put in a window that

receives direct sunlight. Curtain filtered light, or

indirect bright light will keep most plants happy

for the winter. Keep dead leaves removed and

cleaned up around the plants. Also keep an eye

out for any insects that may have moved in with

the plant. Read labels before spraying any

chemicals on plants, to make sure it is safe for

that particular plant. Also keep plants away from

baseboard heaters and from under heat vents.

Source: Nebraska Extension in Lancaster

County/Winter Care of Indoor Plants

Terraced Landscaping

By Janet Jenkins/ Bullitt County Master Gardener

Terracing is a solution when you don’t have

the privilege of living on flat land. If you want

flower beds, a vegetable garden, or just greenery,

you have to learn how to improvise.

I use the process of dry stacking rocks from

the field and creek on my property. This method

was used in Biblical times when they wanted to

separate fields. It has been passed down through

the years by stone masons. Rock can be used, as

shown in the pictures of my property, to make a

dramatic statement. A hammer and chisel can be

used to slice the rocks into smaller pieces. My

dad was a brick layer, and taught me hot to stack

rock. Over the years I have learned to take the

process a little farther.

Starting at the top of the bed area, lay out an

area where you want to start. On each end, drive a

stake in the ground and tie a string to one of the

stakes. Form your work line, by tying string from

stake to stake, forming curves or jagged edges.

Bed shapes are up to you and the possibilities are

endless.

Measure your first rock, and dig out the soil

behind the string. The ground should be level to

keep the rock stable. Do the same with the rest of

your rocks across the length of the bed, keeping

as level as possible. Once you get the first course

laid up, you can add rocks on top to a height of

no higher than 12 inches. If you go any higher

this will cause your wall to topple. After I get my

wall so high, I like to find nice one inch thick

rocks to use as a cap. These will give you a nice

flat surface to sit on when you work in the bed.

I have a yellow lab that likes to run across in

my beds, so I cut dry bamboo canes, that I have

growing on my property, and drive them into the

ground next to the rocks. Rowdy animals can

make your rock walls take a tumble.

If you are making multiple terraced levels,

you will continue the same process. You will

always want to have the rocks connecting up the

side to the front of the previous bed. Black plastic

can be lain up against the rocks to keep soil from

coming through when it rains or when you water.

The soil will need to be leveled by cutting

down at the back part of the bed. The bed can

make a slight downward slope, but if you leave it

too steep, water will wash away your soil, mulch,

and plants and even the lower rock walls. You can

incorporate a good mixture of compost or potting

soil into the existing soil. Once it rains it will

compact your beds so you will have to add more

soil in the future. It is best to plant after a good

soaking rain or soaking with a water hose. This

will give you a good solid base.

You don’t necessarily have to have sloped

land to have a dry stacked flower bed. This type

of bed looks great anywhere. When planting, put

the shortest flowers at the bottom and work

towards the back with the taller plants. This way

you will get to see all of the flowers instead of

some being hidden.

Have fun, start small and dream big.

Resources

http://www.extension.umn.edu/garden/

landscaping/implement/retaining.htm

Asian Lady Beetles and Boxelder Bugs

Autumn is here, and so are the bugs looking

for a warm place to spend the winter. Seeing

them outside is ok but when they come inside, we

get concerned. Asian lady beetles and boxelder

bugs are attracted to exterior walls and

foundations of buildings, looking for warmth.

Both insects are harmless and can not breed or

reproduce indoors.

Boxelder bugs are common insects that feed

on sap from leaves, twigs, and seeds of boxelders,

as well as other members of the maple family.

This harmless accidental invader may be a

temporary nuisance as it moves into sheltered

sites to spend the winter.

Adult boxelder bugs are elongate, 1/2 inch

long insects with sucking mouthparts. They are

mostly black with some red markings. There are

three narrow red lines on the segment behind the

head, one down the center and one on each side

and a thin red inverted “V” about the middle of

the back.

Asian lady beetles (not to be confused with

the native lady beetle) are not native to Kentucky.

They were introduced in surrounding states in an

attempt to establish the beetle as a natural control

agent of agricultural pests. They are native to

eastern Asia, where they are an important

predator of scale and aphid pests on trees.

Adult Asian lady beetles are oval, convex,

about 1/4 inch long, and pale yellow-orange-red.

They often have several black spots on the wing

covers, although on some specimens the spots

may be indistinct or entirely absent. Most

specimens have a small, dark, “M” shaped

marking on the whitish area directly behind the

head.

To cut down on the number of insects in the

home, you can start with a barrier pesticide

application on the foundation of the house and

the adjacent foot or two of soil around it, with

something like permethrin or bifenthrine

insecticide. This puts down a barrier that insects

crawl through when trying to get in or on your

house. In severe cases of insects congregating on

outside walls, entire walls can be treated. Just

make sure you test apply the chemical to a small

section to make sure you don’t discolor siding.

If insects are already in the house, the barrier

won’t stop them. Only aerosol products should be

used in the home. The safest of the group are the

ones for flying insects that contain pyrthrins or

their derivatives. These products basically kill

insects that you get the spray on, and the sprays

are inactivated by hitting the wall, floor, or other

surfaces. You can spray the air in a particular

room and vacuum up the dead insects in an hour

or so. Be sure to follow label directions.

For those that don’t like to use chemical

products, the use of sticky boards offer an option

for millipedes and somewhat for boxelder bugs.

Place these in areas where many insects are seen,

such as room corners and under stairs in the

basement. Ceiling lights are the best traps for the

Asian lady beetles. The vacuum cleaner is also a

good option for cleaning insects from draperies

and the like. Mechanical control, such as a

flyswatter, shoe, or newspaper, can leave

discolored marks from the smashed insect, so

keep this in mind when killing the insects.

Source: Asian Lady Beetle Infestation of

Structures/University of Kentucky Ent-64

Asian Lady Beetles and Boxelder Bugs/

University of Illinois: In The Backyard

Plant A Tree

Trees are living organisms and usually live for

many years longer than people do. It is important

therefore to plant trees for special purposes, such

as needed shade, focal points, or even a memorial

to someone. Trees that are native are best for a

natural forest area.

When you are deciding on a tree, there are

many factors to take into consideration. The

purpose of the tree, such as focal point or shade,

will be a factor in how big you want the tree to

be. Consider the soil, surrounding trees and

buildings, drainage, how much light it will

receive, and how many leaves it will shed in the

fall. Detailed information is available from a

publication by the Kentucky Division of Forestry/

The Kentucky Tree Planting Manual.

There are two planting seasons in Kentucky,

spring and fall. Fall planting allows the tree’s

roots to become better established over the winter

and be healthy for the spring budbreak the

following year. Trees are more likely to survive if

they are transplanted when they are inactive, or

dormant. This helps minimize what is called

“transplant shock.” If the tree is trying to grow

new roots and new leaves and carry on

photosynthesis when it is moved from place to

place, there is often too much stress, and the tree

will wilt, or even die. If you plant when the tree

inactive, it has a much better chance of putting its

energy into readjusting to the new site before it

has to grow new roots and leaves.

The rules are slightly different for good-sized

trees and for seedlings. Trees that come with a

ball of soil attached are called “balled and

burlapped” stock. These trees are several years

old, often several feet tall. These trees may need

to be staked by using guy wires or a single long

stake bound directly to the tree. Smaller trees will

need to be protected from ‘critters’, large and

small, by a surround and some sort of protection

of the trunk. Also make sure you mark it so you

know where it is and don’t accidently destroy it

yourself. Mark stakes with paint or flags so they

will not be a trip hazard. To protect newly planted

trees from “frost heaving”, place a 2 or 4 inch

layer of mulch around the base. Make sure it is

not touching the trunk.

Ten important facts to remember:

Make sure you have the right tree for the

location and that the location is right for the

tree.

Choose the right tree for the right purpose.

Contact utility company before your dig. Also

know the location of lateral lines and septic

tanks and cisterns on your property.

Plant properly, know the tree’s needs.

Do NOT put fertilizer in the planting hole.

Water well, letting the water settle the soil.

Watering frequency depends on the soil,

weather and needs of the tree.

A newly planted tree needs only minimal

pruning. Prune out dead, diseased or injured

wood. Do not use pruning compounds.

Stake if needed, but for no longer than a year.

Remember that swaying helps roots establish.

Mulch with 2 to 4 inches of wood chips,

chunk bark, straw, pine needles or shredded

leaves. Do not use plastic that water and air

can not penetrate. Make sure that the mulch is

not touching the trunk, as this can cause rot.

Wrap tree trunks in the fall and remove wrap

in the spring. This prevents winter sunscald

and protects from rodents chewing on the

bark.

Sources:

University of Kentucky/Kentucky 4-H Forestry

Project.

CSU/Denver County Master Gardener/The Ten

Commandments of Tree Planting.

Gourds

Gourds must be ripened, harvested and cured

properly before use. Decorative, bright-colored

gourds need to be harvested before frost, to avoid

the possibility of spoilage. Mature hard shell

gourds are usually left on the vines until after the

first killing frost, but if you plan on saving seeds,

harvest them before they freeze.

Gourds are thoroughly washed or wiped clean

prior to curing. Curing times can vary from 7

days to 6 months, depending on the type and size,

as well as the thickness of the rind. Curing

requires a warm, dry, dark, well-ventilated area.

They should not touch one another during the

curing process and can be placed on screen racks

or hung. Luffa gourds are soaked in water until

the shells can be peeled back and the sponges

easily removed.

Gourds come in many shapes and sizes. They

make beautiful fall decorations and are even

worthy of festivals entirely

in their honor. They can be

used for varied purposes

from water dippers and

storage vessels, to bird

houses and

even qualify

as fine art.

Pinecones

Don’t throw those pinecones away!

Paint them using craft paint, spray paint or

even dip them in left over house paint. Use glitter

on them, or glue charms and gems to them. Spray

on some polyurethane top coat if putting your

creation outside. Make them look like flowers,

succulents, mini Christmas trees, owls and

anything else you can imagine. Make wreaths,

put them in old picture frames, pretty dishes,

table centerpieces and any where you can find a

place for them. Use hot glue or floral wire to

attach them. You can even use them as ornaments

on your Christmas tree!

Bullitt County Cooperative Extension Service

384 Halls Ln.

Shepherdsville, Ky 40165

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