Notes on Canoeing the Big Black River April 13, 2019

By Frank Richards

By way of introduction, I am in the process of writing a canoeing

guidebook for the St. John River. I have canoed the Big Black twice as part

of research. I plan to do it again in 2019.

These notes are a draft proto chapter to assist people interested in

canoeing the Big Black, which is rarely visited . I put an over view map at

the end. I’d l ike to encourage people to give this river a try.

From Depot Road to Escourt Road is an eas y 4 day trip, camping 3 nights.

Water Level

This is a run off river , suitable for canoeing in mid-May. At other times,

there l ikely won’t be enough water in the river.

In mid-May, the gauge on the internet should be about 700 csf. 800 is

even better. Based on 2 trips, I wil l estimate that 500 is the minimum. The

river has the potential for crashing to 100 cfs in late May early June.

About May 15 to about May 21 is the best window.

Rapids

This is not a beginner’s r iver. At least one person in each canoe

(preferably both) should have had actual paddling lessons. If not, let me

recommend going go to the nearby Allagash River, which is also a

beautiful river but less technically demanding.

There are 2 significant deadwaters, fol lowed by Class II+ whitewater.

There is one potential Class II I drop just upstream from the Maibec Road

Bridge. Certain sections of whitewater below the Maibec Road Bridge

require switching lines on a regular basis. A beginner would have trouble.

However, for an experience paddler, this section is an afternoon of pure

pleasure.

The severity of rapids is very dependent on the volume of flow. The above

is based on about 800 cfs. More than that would make these rapids mor e

demanding, but stil l doable by qualif ied paddlers.

There is a long deadwater, known as the Ninemile Deadwater after the

confluence with Shields Brook. It ends with a washed out dam. After the

dam, the river returns to Class I I rapids, until the confluenc e with the St.

John.

There are no portages.

Campsites

These are wilderness campsites. There are no picnic tables, fire rings, or

outhouses.

Starting from the put in at the Depot Road Bridge:

1. The first campsite is less than an hour down river from the pu t in. It is

the last campsite for the length of the deadwater, approximately 4 miles.

2. At the end of the deadwater , there is an old roadbed on river r ight that

ends with a washed out small bridge abutment. That’s a nice campsite.

3. The area on the other side of the river is also flat enough to erect a

tent.

4. About 2 hours or so after the Maibec Bridge there is a cottage on river

left. About half a mile below that there is a decent place to pull the canoe

on shore on river left and a place higher up to pitch a tent.

View from Camp 4

5. There is another place on river right a little before the confluence with

Shields Brook, but the landing is not as good.

6. About 15 minutes downstream from the confluence with Shields Brook,

there is a campsite on river r ight. It is difficult to find and it is r ight after

the first bend on the map. I recommend paddling just a few feet off the

bank on river right, going slow, and watching the shoreline carefully. If

you miss it, there’s a good 8 miles to the next one.

7. The washed out dam has space to erect a small tent. It is a beautiful

place. However, a spade would be needed to establish more places for

tents for a group larger than 2 people.

View from Camp 7

8. The area in front of 5 mile brook is difficult to locate, the brook is t iny.

However, it is excellent. There is a good landing and the view is over the

top.

View from Camp 8 That is the view across the river.

9. Similarly, there is good campsite in front of 2 mile brook.

View from Camp 9

Camping tips .

In mid-May, cold weather is an issue, particularly at night. Long

underwear, extra layers of clothing, a cold weather sleeping bag, and a

good sleeping pad are all important. The tradeoff : it hasn’t warmed up

enough for bugs to be an issue, even though you should pack insect

repellant.

Put ins .

Either Depot Bridge or Maibec Bridge. There is no access at Maibec

Bridge. However, a shuttle driver will know a near by place to put in.

Take Outs .

I recommend taking out at the Escourt Road Bridge. Down river, only the

Ferry Crossing campsite is accessed by good roads.

It is possible to take out at one of the downstream campsites on the St.

John. . It is possible to take out at the top of Big Rapids.

However, at that time of year, the side roads are highly questionable. I’d

only try them if advised by someone who knows. In these remote areas,

getting stuck in mud is a nightmare that may take days to resolve.

Additionally, the take out before Big Rapids is easy to mis s and requires a

carry up a hill to get to the parking area. If you miss that take out, you are

in a potential ly l i fe threatening situation.

Big Rapids at high flows and frigid spring water is for experts wearing

neoprene suits , using spray decks and floatation. It is class 4 at the gorge

at the end. The frigid water puts everything over the top. If you should

capsize, your l ife is at risk.

Fishing .

This is musky fishing. The transitional areas at the end of the deadwaters

are good. I recommend a large paddle tailed swimbait or a surface lure

known as a Whopper Plopper. I am at the beginning of the learning curve

on fishing the Big Black . I wil l know more in a few years. But that half a

mile or so of transition between deadwater and rapids seems to be high

potential for muskies. My canoe partner caught this approximately 8 -lb

muskie casting from the second campsite at the end of the gravel road

using a paddletailed swimbait.

Logistics .

A shuttle and vehicle drop at the take out is the way to go. Those roads

are too complicated and unpredictable early in the year for someone

unfamil iar with the area to safely navigate.

I recommend staying overnight at AGS and getting a fresh start in the

morning. It is possible to arrive at AGS in the early afternoon, get shuttled

in, and be camped by maybe 6 pm.

However, it is a lot of work and very risky because of weather. Potentiall y,

the one day approach risks driving 6 hours to Allagash, driving another 3

hours into the bush, and then needing to top off the day by paddling a

while, and making camp in the freezing rain.

Next the map.