norm thompson apparel quality guidelines

NORM THOMPSON OUTFITTERS APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES

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Norm Thompson Apparel Quality Guidelines

Updated 2009


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APPAREL QUALITY GUIDELINES TABLE OF CONTENTS I. INTRODUCTION CONTACT INFORMATION ............................................................................................ 4 Technical Design & Quality .................................................................................. 4 Technical Designers............................................................................................... 4 II. VENDOR REQUIREMENTS............................................................................................ 5 SAMPLE TAGS ................................................................................................................. 5 PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS ...................................................................... 5 PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES....................................................................................... 6 TOP-OF-PRODUCTION GARMENTS ............................................................................ 7 REQUIRED PROCESSES BEFORE SHIPPING.............................................................. 8 PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS................................................................................... 9 QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION OF PRODUCTION GOODS............................... 9 III. NORM THOMPSON APPAREL GUIDELINES............................................................ 10 GENERAL ................................................................................................................ 10 MEASUREMENTS.......................................................................................................... 10 FABRICS ................................................................................................................ 10 COLOR ................................................................................................................ 10 CONSTRUCTION ........................................................................................................... 11 Stitching.................................................................................................. 11 Thread..................................................................................................... 11 Seams...................................................................................................... 11

Buttonholes............................................................................................. 11 Hems....................................................................................................... 12

Interfacing – Facing................................................................................ 12 Pockets.................................................................................................... 12 Collars..................................................................................................... 12

Plackets................................................................................................... 12 Cuffs ....................................................................................................... 12

Rib, Binding............................................................................................ 13 Waistbands/Belt loops ............................................................................ 13 FINDINGS ................................................................................................................ 13

Zippers .................................................................................................... 13 Buttons.................................................................................................... 13 Belts/Buckles .......................................................................................... 14

Shoulder pads ......................................................................................... 14 Linings.................................................................................................... 14

PRESSING ................................................................................................................ 14


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IV. PRODUCT LABELING REQUIREMENTS................................................................... 15 BRAND LABELS ........................................................................................................... 15 SIZE TAB LABELS......................................................................................................... 15 CARE & CONTENT LABELS........................................................................................ 15 Care Label Ruling................................................................................... 16 COUNTRY OF ORIGIN.................................................................................................. 16 LABEL PLACEMENT .................................................................................................... 17 V. SUSTAINABILITY RESOLUTION ............................................................................... 18 VI. FLAMMABILITY REQUIREMENTS............................................................................ 19 SUSPTECT FABRICS ................................................................................................... 19 RAISED FIBER FABRICS............................................................................................ 20 EXEMPTIONS ............................................................................................................. 20 VII APPAREL TESTING..................................................................................................... 21 BASIC QUALITY TESTING REQUIREMENTS ........................................................ 21 Woven Fabric ...................................................................................................... 21 Knit Fabric ........................................................................................................... 21 Sweaters............................................................................................................... 22 VIII TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS................................................................... 23 NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol.................................................................. 23-26 IX TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM ............................................................................... 27-28 ADDITIONAL TESTS SUBMIT FORM ........................................................................29 OTHER TESTS .......................................................................................................... 30-31 NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (other tests) .............................................. 30-31 TESTING LAB SUBMIT FORM (other tests) ............................................................32-33 X. APPENDIX ................................................................................................................ 34 READ AND COMPLY .................................................................................................... 35

SPECS. CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET .............................................. 36 GARMENT LABELS .......................................................................................................37

GARMENT LABELS SPECIFICATIONS................................................................. 37-38 GARMENT LABEL EXAMPLES: SEWN IN GARMENT ..........................................39 GARMENT LABEL: ACTUAL “ON BODY” EXAMPLES.................................... 40-41 ASTM GUIDE ................................................................................................................ 42


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I. INTRODUCTION The Norm Thompson Technical Design team establishes corporate quality guidelines and, together with the Merchandise Department, develops products of quality and value. Questions regarding quality guidelines should be directed to the appropriate Tech Design team member listed below via phone, fax, regular mail, or email. CONTACT INFORMATION PHONE FAX ADDRESS 503-614-EXT. 503-614-4725 3188 NW Aloclek Drive

Hillsboro, OR 97124 Technical Design & Quality NAME EXT. E-MAIL Carla Kildahl Director Technical Design/Prod Quality

4595 [email protected]

Technical Designers NAME EXT. E-MAIL Ene Sokk Senior Tech Design

4631 Norm Thompson Apparel [email protected]

Meagan Feeder Senior Tech Design

4691 Norm Thompson Apparel [email protected]


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II. VENDOR REQUIREMENTS SAMPLE TAGS All sample garments must be received with sample tags applied by the vendor and include the following information:

a. Date b. Vendor name c. Vendor reference number d. Norm Thompson reference/product number e. Size f. Sample identification; i.e., 1st Prototype, 2nd Prototype, Pre-production Sample,

Top of Production Sample, Photo Sample, etc. g. Color h. Fabric – content, fabric reference # , article #, and notation if substitute or correct

ALL FIT SAMPLES are to be sent to the attention of Technical Design – not to the buyer. Samples received untagged will be returned to the vendor for tagging. PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS a. Read and Comply Statement will be generated and faxed with first Purchase Order for each style (see Appendix page 30).

1) Care and content is required on all styles and should be submitted prior to due date.

2) Pre-production sample , if requested by Tech Designer. See page 5. 3) TOP garment – One (1) required. See page 6. 4) Color swatches:

New styles: Submit two (1) sets of fabric swatches of any additional colors purchased for that product not represented by TOP samples.

Carryover styles: Submit one set of fabric swatches for new colors only. b. For apparel orders a blank specification sheet will be included (see Appendix page 30).

1) Line Goods: All applicable garment measurements and care/content information must be completed on all new styles. 2) Developed Goods: Complete only care/content information. Spec pack will be sent to you by Tech Design. 3) Carryover Styles: Submit one set of fabric swatches for new colors only.


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PRODUCT SPECIFICATION REQUESTS (continued) c. It is a Federal Trade Commission (FTC) regulation that catalog information regarding country of origin and fiber content must be consistent with the information on the product label. Care and content information submitted on the specification sheet must match that of actual product labeling. Inaccurate product information submitted will result in a chargeback of $300.00, plus cost of copy change. d. Fax/email the specification sheet(s) to the appropriate Technical Designer by the due date on the Read and Comply Statement or by date given in by Technical Designer. PLEASE NOTE: Your shipment will not be accepted at our distribution center until a Technical Design representative has received your specification sheet. Failure to supply specification sheets on time will result in a $450.00 surcharge per style, and delayed payment. PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES a. One (1) pre-production sample is required upon request by Norm Thompson Technical Design. With this sample, the vendor is certifying that everything on and about the sample is correct – including materials, construction, labeling and packaging.

If pre-production sample is requested, written approval of the pre-production sample must be

received by the vendor prior to cutting and sewing of the product.

Tech Design will fax/email approval to you.

Samples are to be sent to the attention of the appropriate Technical Designer.

All samples must be received with sample tags per the stated guideline (see Sample Tags on page 4).

Sample is reviewed for quality, construction, and specification compliance.

Labeling – All products must comply with Norm Thompson brand labels if requested. Refer

to Section 4 Product Labeling Requirements (page 13) for more detail.

Any changes required as a result of the review of the pre-production sample must be incorporated into the bulk production.

Failure to supply the requested pre-production sample by the stated date will result in a $450.00 chargeback per style and possible rejection of bulk production.


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TOP-OF-PRODUCTION GARMENTS a. One (1) Top of Production (TOP) garment is required, as detailed on our Read and Comply Statement and Purchase Order. Also required are one (1) set of fabric swatches of any additional colors purchased for that product not represented by the production samples.

TOP garments and swatches (if necessary) are to be received by the due date as specified on the Read and Comply Statement, or by date specified by the Technical Designer (based on production calendar).

TOP garments should be sent to the attention of the appropriate Technical Designer.

TOP garments are reviewed for quality and specification compliance.

TOP garment (approved) will be retained as the inspection standard for the bulk order.

Labeling – All products need to comply with Norm Thompson brand labels if requested. Refer

to Section 4 Product Labeling Requirements (page 13) for more detail.

Packaging (hanging, folded, polybag, SKU sticker, etc.) should be as specified on the Purchase Order and representative of bulk shipment goods.

b. If production of a carryover style moves to a new factory, or if style moves to a new yarn, has new content, etc., one (1) TOP garment samples are required. c. The Technical Designer will email/fax verification that TOP garments meet the production standard, within two working days of receipt. PLEASE NOTE: Your shipment will not be accepted at our Distribution Center until the Technical Designer has approved your TOP garments. Failure to supply the production garments by the due date will result in a $450.00 surcharge per style, and delayed payment to you.


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Required processes before shipment of products

Technical Design and Quality require the following important steps be followed, before A Top of Production garment is considered approved for production to ship. .

1- Testing for Quality and CPSIA be completed and submitted for approval by Technical Design/Product Quality Management. (see: Basic Testing Requirements)

2- CPSIA Certificate of Conformity be fully completed and submitted

By email to - [email protected]

For more details on the Certificate of Conformity – visit our vendor website http://vendor.nortom.com/ - “US CPSIA Act –2008” “Certificate of Conformity”

Submit Certificate of Conformity must also include a) Supporting test documents

- or - b) Statement on letterhead with explanation of exemption.

Note: Apparel Flammability Act 16 CFR 1610 - applies to all items of clothing, and fabrics used for clothing, whether for adults or children, for daywear or nightwear.

Regulations: 16 CFR parts 1615 and 1616 govern the flammability of children's sleepwear. 3- TOP (top of production) with all points met listed in the above guidelines. 4- Receipt of TOP approval letter

Failure to comply will result in a $450.00 QC chargeback per style, per offense

1- Non submittal - CPSIA certificate of conformity and supporting documentation at time of Top of Production submit.

2- Top of Production – product not arriving by specified date

provided by Technical Design and/or on Purchase order (read and comply) Check with appropriate Technical Designer regarding due date.

3- Shipment of products to our warehouse without prior approval Products shipped before approval, may also be held at warehouse and

i. additional charges may be incurred due to lost demand, until all issue and concerns are cleared.

ii. Automatic charge of $450.00 will be given


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PRODUCTION REQUIREMENTS a. Correct product labeling is required. Please refer to Section 4 Product Labeling Requirements

(page 14). b. Garment folded or hanging as specified on the purchase order. c. If Norm Thompson labels are specified on the purchase order, there can be no vendor hangtag

attached unless prior approval is obtained from Product Quality Management (PQM) d. No vendor solicitations allowed on garment (phone numbers, addresses, websites, etc.) with or

without Norm Thompson labeling, unless prior approval is obtained from Product Quality Management (PQM)

e. No price tags. f. One (1) extra button of each button size on garment to be included with garment. QUALITY CONTROL INSPECTION OF PRODUCTION GOODS a. All orders received at our distribution center require a quality inspection to assure consistent quality

of all products. b. Inspection procedure adopted by our distribution center is the 4% Acceptable Quality Level (AQL),

double sampling plan based upon the Military Standard 105D. It is the most widely used random-sampling inspection procedure among the large direct-mail companies.

4% AQL means no more than 4% of the shipment can be defective.

Double sampling means if the amount inspected falls between accept/reject, another sample lot

is pulled and inspected. c. If shipment fails the AQL inspection, goods will automatically be returned to the vendor for 100%

inspection and replacement of goods. d. There are three levels of inspection under the AQL plan: normal, reduced, and tightened. Each

shipment is documented, and a vendor’s status may be changed to reduced or increased inspection levels, based upon inspection of previous shipments.

e. Inspection reports are available upon request. f. For further information or questions regarding the AQL process, please contact the appropriate

Technical Designer.


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III. NORM THOMPSON APPAREL GUIDELINES GENERAL These guidelines include, but are not limited to, the following: a. Color, fiber content, fabric and garment construction, and all parts, findings and features, are exactly as

approved for Purchase Order by Merchants, and are representative of photo samples. b. No odors. c. All units of Purchase Order are consistent in quality of fabric, construction, and features. d. Vendor is responsible for physical testing that meets Norm Thompson requirements. Our standards

follow American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC) and ASTM International (ASTM) for product end-use. Refer to Section 6 Physical Testing (page 17).

MEASUREMENTS a. Garment measurements must meet approved graded production specification sheets within tolerances listed on spec sheet. b. Corresponding garment pieces measure within ½" of each other (right and left sleeve, or right and left

pant leg). FABRICS a. No fabric defects, including: holes, stains, weak spots, mispicks, knots, slubs, soil, or other

flaws. b. No streaking, fade lines, heavy barré or foreign matter, unless characteristic of fabric type. c. No large or long slubs (inherent in some natural fabrics) to be found in front of garment, which detracts

from garment appearance. d. No uneven print repeats, off-register prints, off-grain prints, or inconsistent print repeats. e. Stripes, plaids and directional prints must match at center front and center back +/- ⅛",at side seams

and armscye. f. Based on design, center of plaid/stripe is placed at center front and center back. COLOR a. Production colors must match approved lab dip or approved photo sample color. b. All garment components are from the same dye lot. c. Separates should be from the same dye lot or from approved dye lots within shade band pre-approved

by the Technical Designer.


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CONSTRUCTION Stitching a. Required stitch length is 10-12 stitches per inch (SPI) and must be consistent throughout garment. Required stitch length for topstitching is 10-12 SPI, except heavyweight outerwear, which is 8-10 SPI. b. Stitch tension is balanced, so there are no puckers or thread loops. c. No broken or skipped stitches. d. Topstitching is consistently even and parallel from edge or from another line of topstitch. e. No needle cuts, chews, or thread jams. f. Bartacks or back-tacks at garment stress points. g. No conspicuous, overlapped stop-and-start stitching. h. No hand repairs or darning. Thread a. Thread color matches or complements ground color for all seams and topstitching unless another color

is pre-approved. b. Thread color is consistent throughout garment. c. No monofilament thread on any part of garment or labels. d. Thread tails should be clipped and removed from garment. e. Fluff or texturized threads on loopers of swim and/or body wear. Seams a. Seam must be straight: no wavering, curling, puckering, or pleating. b. Minimum seam for overseam is ⅜" woven’s, ½" for lockstitch. Minimum seam for overseam on knits

is ¼". c. Seam edge is finished by serging or taping. d. No open unstitched seams. e. No seam grin due to loose tension or too large stitches. f. Seams match +/- ¼", where seams cross (i.e., inside leg seams at crotch seam, or armscye seams at side

seam). g. No extraneous part of garment caught in seam. h. Shoulder seams on knits reinforced. Buttonholes a. Buttonhole length = diameter + thickness of button. b. Spaced evenly, and correctly aligned to buttons +/- ⅛". c. Thread matches ground color unless another color pre-approved. d. Buttonholes completely surrounded by buttonhole stitches, ends reinforced. e. No clipped buttonhole stitches. f. Reinforced with interfacing. g. Loose fabric yarns and buttonhole threads neatly trimmed. h. Aligned with fabric grain, crosswise or lengthwise as predetermined.


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CONSTRUCTION (continued) Hems a. Hem is sewn after main seam (side, leg, sleeve) unless seam has slits. b. Sewn securely without puckering; no loose or skipped stitches. c. Should not rope. d. Hang evenly and straight. e. Width is consistent throughout garment. Interfacing – Facing a. Interfacing must be of compatible weight for base goods. b. Interfacing must be durable to withstand recommended care. c. Fusible interfacing must be applied at correct temperature and pressure to remain fused for the life of

the garment. d. Facing is clean-finished, serged edge or pre-approved edge finish. e. Facing is sufficiently secured to lie smooth inside garment. Pockets a. Lie flat against garment – no pulling, gaping, or puckering. b. Pockets in correct placement on garment +/- ¼" tolerance. c. Patch pockets aligned evenly with one another horizontally +/- ¼" tolerance and vertically from CF +/-

¼" tolerance. d. Pocket/flap shape is symmetrical and uniform in size +/- ¼". e. Functional pockets are reinforced at stress points, such as top corners. f. Patch pockets, even edge-stitch. g. Pocket bags should use stitch type recommended for durability. Collars a. Collar points/curves are uniform in size and shape +/- ⅛". b. Under-collar does not roll to outside. c. Collar band fits smoothly to neck opening without excessive fullness or tucks in seams. d. Even stripes, plaids or patterns match on both collar points +/- ⅛". e. Collar seam is enclosed within facing or binding. Plackets a. Top and bottom plackets should be equal when buttoned +/- ⅛". b. Inside edge of placket is clean-finished, serged or bound. c. Placket width should be consistently even +/- ⅛". Cuffs a. Cuff seam and cuff edges are in alignment when buttoned +/- ⅛". b. Inside-cuff does not roll to outside. c. Inside-cuff edge clean-finished, serged or bound.


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CONSTRUCTION (continued) Rib, Binding a. Should be compatible to garment and its recommended care, including: colorfastness, durability and

shrinkage. b. Stretch ratio should be compatible to garment fabric. c. Neck finish seam is set at left shoulder or center back. d. Sleeve finish seam is set at underarm seam. e. Bottom finish seam is set at left side seam. f. Binding ends are clean-finished. g. Binding splices should not fall on garment front. Waistbands/Belt loops a. Waistband width is of consistent width +/- ⅛". b. Inside waistband edge is clean-finished, bound or serged. c. No puckers at waistband seam. d. No missing, crooked or incorrectly placed belt loops. e. Belt loop securely attached to garment. f. Belt loop construction must enclose raw edges. FINDINGS Zippers a. Equivalent in strength to the base fabric and product end use. b. Locking slider, secure pull-tab and bottom stops. c. Teeth and tape match pre-approved color. d. Garment construction should not interfere with zipper operation. e. Should lie flat after construction. f. Zipper tape is enclosed within facing or binding. g. YKK strongly recommended. Buttons a. Button style, quality and color as pre-approved sample. b. Placed evenly and aligned properly on garment. c. Sewn and tacked securely with no loose threads. d. Colorfast and durable to recommended care. e. Consistent color and shape among all garment buttons. f. Placement markings are not visible. g. No sharp edges or noticeable flaws. h. Shanked button when fabric thickness dictates need. i. Button placement reinforced with interfacing


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CONSTRUCTION (continued) Belts/Buckles a. Buckles and grommets should not have any sharp, burred edges. b. For self-fabric belts, fabric should completely cover belting and buckle. c. Self-fabric belt cut from same dye lot as garment. Shoulder pads a. Sufficiently tacked to avoid twisting or shifting from wear or care. b. Shoulder pad fabric should be compatible to garment fabric. c. If attached by hook & loop fasteners, loops should be on garment, hooks should be on pads. d. Exposed shoulder pads covered with self-fabric or fabric compatible to garment. Linings a. Color and content pre-approved by Merchants and Tech Design. b. Must withstand recommended garment care. c. Seams securely stitched and reinforced at stress points. d. Hang straight in the garment without pulling or excessive puckering. e. Do not hang below garment shell. f. Lining and shell fabric have similar shrinkage rates within acceptable tolerance. g. Opaque to prevent show-through of construction details. h. Jacket lining is tacked at underarm seams. PRESSING a. No scorch, burn, shine, press marks, or color changes due to over-pressing. b. Garment properly pressed, unless fabric type warrants otherwise. c. No heat-set creases due to improper pressing. d. Garment must cool to room temperature prior to measuring for final inspection and packaging, to

prevent condensation in bag.


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IV. PRODUCT LABELING REQUIREMENTS BRAND LABELS Refer to examples of Norm Thompson labels (see Appendix) for women’s and men’s products. Use correct brand label as specified on Purchase Order. Brand labels, size labels, care and content labels should be order at www.CheckpointSystems.com. U.S. & CANADA SOURCE CONTACT PHONE FAX Checkpoint Houston 5800 Corporate Drive Building D Houston, TX 77036

Karen Hunt [email protected] -or- Richard Rodriguez [email protected]

1-866-910-9106 713-981-6213

INTERNATIONAL SOURCE PHONE FAX Checkpoint Systems Hong Kong Ltd. 4/F, Block A, Shatin Industrial Centre 5-7 Yuen Shun Circuit, Siu Lek Yuen Shatin, New Territories, Hong Kong

011-852-2995-8355 011-852-2527-8408

SIZE TAB LABELS Size labels, brand labels, care & content labels should be ordered at www.CheckpointSystems.com. a. Specific size information must be included on garment. b. Size information should be a size tav label affixed in a prominent place

(see Appendix: “ Garment Label Examples: Sewn In Garment” for details) CARE & CONTENT LABELS Care & Content labels, size labels, brand labels should be ordered at www.CheckpointSystems.com. Federal Trade Commission (FTC) – All care & content labels must be in compliance with current FTC requirements. For further information regarding fiber content and care labels, contact: Federal Trade Commission 6th & Pennsylvania Avenue, NW Washington, DC 20580 Phone: 202-326-2996 www.ftc.gov. - Business Guidance, Textile/wool/fur apparel.


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CARE & CONTENT LABELS (Continued) a. Care label is permanently affixed at a conspicuous place on garment and legible throughout useful

life of the product.

b. Labels are required to be written in English. Additionally, international languages and American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) symbols may be used (see Appendix).

c. Identification of fiber by generic name and percentages and by weight of each constituent fiber must be listed in descending order of predominance. Fibers of less than five percent should be disclosed as “other fiber(s)”. Exception: Wool or recycled wool must always be disclosed by name and percentage weight, even if it is less than five percent of the product. d. Textile labels must identify either the company name or Registered Identification Number (RN). Please note: It is an FTC requirement that catalog information (mail order advertising) regarding a product’s country of origin, fiber content and care information match the actual product labeling. Submitting accurate information on your spec. sheet will help to ensure compliance with this requirement. Care Label Ruling Instructions are required for regular care under ordinary use of product. Care instructions must include the following:

Method of washing and temperature. Method of drying and temperature. Bleaching – type of bleach or “no bleach” (need tests to support statement on bleach care). Ironing and temperature if needed. Warnings – if any part of care procedure would damage product or others cleaned with it, then label must

contain warning. Dry cleaning – if product warrants this care, due to damage of garment if washed.

When using the statement “Dry-Clean Only” – Testing is required to support this care.


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COUNTRY OF ORIGIN Products are required to show country of origin.

Imported products must identify the country where they were manufactured. Products made in USA of USA materials must be labeled “Made in U.S.A.” Products manufactured in part in the USA and in part abroad must identify both aspects. Products made in USA of imported materials must be labeled to show manufacturing that takes place in the

USA, as well as the imported component. Example: “Made in Sri Lanka, finished in U.S.A.” Products made in the USA with imported materials must identify this, but label does not have to include

country of origin of imported materials. Example: “Made in U.S.A. of imported fabric”.

Please note: It is an FTC requirement that catalog information (mail order advertising) regarding a product’s country of origin, fiber content and care information match the actual product labeling. Submitting accurate information on your spec. sheet will help to ensure this requirement. LABEL PLACEMENT

In a garment with a neck, a label disclosing the country of origin must be visible. On garments without a neck, required information must appear on conspicuous and readily

accessible label(s) on the inside or outside of the product. U.S. Customs service has country of origin labeling requirements separate from those under the FTC Textile and Wool Acts and Rules. For more information, refer to www.customs.ustreas.gov.


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V. SUSTAINABILITY RESOLUTION NOTE: Norm Thompson Outfitters is a member of the Business for Social Responsibility, and supports activities of the BSR organization. As a participating member, Norm Thompson asks all suppliers to become aware of substances that are harmful either to the environment or to humans, and ensure Norm Thompson that use of these products will be curtailed to designated limits or less. A list of these substances follows. Further information may be found online at www.bsr.org/rsl.

Azo dyes Disperse dyes

Flame retardants Formaldehyde

Pentachlorophenol (PCP) Organotins

Polyvinyl chloride (PVC) Phthalates

Nickel Other metals; including antimony, arsenic, barium, total chromium & selenium

Mercury Cadmium

Lead Chromium VI

Asbestos Dioxins and Furans

Pesticides


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VI. FLAMMABILITY REQUIREMENTS All apparel must comply with the U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) Regulation CFR1610 for flammability. The only exemptions to this regulation are hats, gloves and shoes. Although most fabrics burn, the CPSC identifies in the regulation, those fabrics which, due to their burning characteristics, will not fail to meet this regulation. These fabrics are categorized as EXEMPT. The regulation also identifies those fabrics that are categorized as SUSPECT, and therefore not exempt. Leather and suede are not considered to be suspect fabrics however suede, due to its raised surface, must be tested for flammability. Smooth leather products do not need to be tested for flammability. Norm Thompson requires that all SUSPECT fabrics be tested prior to shipping and that all such fabrics be classified as “Class 1”. The following list provides fabric types that are “EXEMPT” and “SUSPECT”.

SUSPECT FABRICS Lightweight Fabrics: Fabrics weighing less than 2.6 ounces per square yard composed of cotton, rayon, ramie, acetate or silk fibers. This includes, but is not limited to: • Cellophane or Chiffon • Moss Crepe • Cheese Cloth • Net • Crepe de Chine • Ninon • Crinoline • Organdy • Gauze • Swiss Marquisette • Georgette • Tissue Faille Crepe • Lace • Tissue Gingham • Lawn • Tobacco Cloth • Leno Weave • Tulle • Light Weight Momme Cloth • Veiling • Lingerie Batiste • Voile • Metallic


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SUSPECT FABRICS (continued) Raised Fiber Surface Fabrics Fabrics, which have raised fiber, yarns such as pile, tufting or nap of cotton or rayon fibers, or blends containing these fibers. This includes but is not limited to: • Chenille • Flocked Weaves • Flannel • French Terry • Fleece • Sherpa • Terry Exemptions The CPSC exempts certain fabrics from the flammability testing requirements. Following is a list of these exemptions: • Plain surface fabrics which weigh 2.6 ounces per square yard or more, regardless of their fiber content. • All fabrics (both plain and raised fiber surface) made completely from any of the following fibers or

entirely from combinations of the following fibers: • Acrylic • Modacrylic • Nylon • Olefin • Polyester • Wool


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VII. APPAREL TESTING

Basic Quality Testing Requirements WOVEN FABRIC

Description Method Fibre Composition AATCC 20/20A Yarn Count ASTM D1059 Thread / Stitch Count ASTM D3775 / D3887 Fabric Weight ASTM D3776 Seam Strength ASTM D1683 Dimensional Stability to Washing / Commercial Dry-cleaning

AATCC 135 / 150 or Commercial Dry-cleaning

Appearance After Washing / Commercial Dry-cleaning

Subjective Assessment

Colorfastness to Washing and/or Commercial Dry-cleaning

AATCC 61 / 132

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS-001 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8 Flammability test US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 /

ASTM D4151

KNIT FABRIC

Description Method Fibre Composition AATCC 20/20A Yarn Count ASTM D1059 Thread / Stitch Count ASTM D3775 / D3887 Fabric Weight ASTM D3776 Dimensional Stability to Washing / Commercial Dry-cleaning





AATCC 61 / 132

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS-001 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8

Flammability test US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 / ASTM D4151


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Basic Quality Testing Requirements (continued) SWEATERS

Description Method Fibre Composition AATCC 20/20A Yarn Count ASTM D1059 Thread / Stitch Count ASTM D3775 / D3887 Garment Weight ASTM D3776 Dimensional Stability to Washing / Commercial Dry-cleaning





AATCC 61 / 132

Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS-001 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8

Flammability test US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 / ASTM D4151

Test packages with reduced prices are available, o See: “ Testing Submit Form “

“NTO Laboratory Testing Form (Apparel & Home Textiles)”

o Questions on test packages please; contact Technical Designers – For contact list – see “Technical Design and Quality”


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VIII. TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS

NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel & Home Textiles)

Pro

toco

l

Item

#

Description Method Guidance Requirement

1 Fibre Composition

AATCC 20/20A

Test one color per fabrication.

No tolerance for single fiber; +/-3% for blends

2 Yarn Count ASTM

D1059 - Sweater only. - Test one color per fabrication.

+/-5% (lab shows also + or -% besides result after comparing the declared)

3 Thread / Stitch Count

ASTM D3775 / D3887

Test one color per fabrication.


4 Fabric Weight (Garment Wt. for Sweater)

ASTM D3776 / D3887

Report mm for silk fabric.


Style

Fabric > 3 oz/sq yd & Strength

Fabric < 3 oz/sq yd & Strength e.g.

moss crepe, silk, georgette

Woven outerwear (shell/lining) 35 lbs 15 lbs Tops, flannel and seersucker 25 lbs 10 lbs

Bottoms 30 lbs 15 lbs All other Pockets 10 lbs 10 lbs

5 Seam Strength ASTM D1683

- Woven only. - Test one color per fabrication.

Patch Pockets 15 lbs 15 lbs

Fabrication Machine Washes Hand Washes Dry-cleaning

Woven/Knit cotton +/-5% +/-4% +/-4% Woven CVC +/-4% +/-3% +/-2% Woven CVS +/-3% +/-3% +/-2%

Knit CVC +/-5% +/-4% +/-3%

Knit CVS +/-4% +/-4% +/-2% Ribs of any fibers

+/-8% +/-8% +/-2%

Wool/Cashmere/Angora/CVL/CV Rayon/Silk

+/-5% +/-5% +/-4%

Spandex blends

+/-7% +/-7% +/-4%

Thermal Knits +/-6% +/-6% +/-3%

Pac

kag

e

6 Dimensional Stability to Washing / Commercial Dry-cleaning


- the darkest color(s) is/are preferable. - for garment test, vendor submits one out of every three colors per style to lab (3 maximum). Lab test all submitted colors. - use "Tide" detergent to wash. - 3 washes for machine and hand wash. - 1 wash for dry-cleaning. - For "Appearance", Lab can skip 1st wash result if 3rd washes result is passed. - Leather to be "Professional Dry Cleaned".

Leather N/A N/A +/-2%


24

TESTING METHODS AND STANDARDS (continued)


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Description Method Guidance Requirement 7 Appearance

After Washing / Commercial Dry-cleaning


Commercial Acceptable (report color change grade, skewing, pilling appearance according to ASTM D 3512 template and all poor performance after wash - for both fabric and garment). For failed color change grade, report also color change with UV depressor, but comment according to without depressor)

Non-

Swimwear

Swimwear Light/Medium

Color

Swimwear dark colors

neon/fluorescent

Color Change

4.0 3.5 3.0 Color Staining

3.5 3.0 3.0

8 Colorfastness to Washing and/or Commercial Dry-cleaning

AATCC 61 / 132

- Fabric: test all colors except pastels and white. - Garment: vendor submit one out of every three colors with darkest shade(s) except pastels and white to the lab. Lab test all submitted colors.

Self Staining 4.5 4.5 4.5

9 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach

AATCC TS-001

All colors. Color Change 4.0

10 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach

AATCC TS-001

All colors. Color Change 4.0

Fabric Colors Dry Wet

Light/Med 4.0 3.0 CVC Dark 3.0 2.5

Light/Med 4.0 3.0 CVS Dark 3.5 2.5

11 Colorfastness to Crocking

AATCC 8 All colors, except pastels and white.

Wool / Linen / Leather All Colors 3.0 2.5

US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 for garment

ASTM D4151 for blanket

Class 1 Op

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12 Flammability test

US CPSC 16 CFR Parts 1630 / 1631 for carpet/rug

Test all colors.

Pass


25



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Description Method Guidance Requirement Thread Count ASTM D3775 Woven only. +/-5%

Style Acceptance Level Woven tops, dresses, lounge wear, lining on jackets/coats, other light weight woven’s

25 lbs. Min.

Woven bottoms, denim less than 8.5 oz.

35 lbs. Min.

Tensile Strength ASTM D5034 Woven only.

Denim over 8.5 oz., shell fabric on jackets/coats

40 lbs. Min.

Bursting Strength

ASTM D3786 Knits only. Minimum 45 lbs

Snap & Fabric Strength

Snap only. Snap action: 2-8 lbs.; Snap strength: Min. 15 lbs.

Eyelet Pull Strength

Modified ASTM D4846 / D1683

- Eyelet only. - using Tensile Testing Machine, CRE

Minimum 15 lbs

Fabrication Grade

CVC 3.0 Snag Resistance

ASTM D5362

CVS 2.0 Fabrication Grade

CVC, CVS 3.0

Pilling Resistance

ASTM D3512 For fleece and flannel, or other suspected fabrics.

Wool 2.0

Abrasion Resistance

ASTM D4685 For corduroy fabric only.

Face : 3.0 ; Back : 4.0

Stretch and Recovery

ASTM D2594 / D3107

Knit - 95% Min.; Woven - 85% Min.

Pull Tab Strength (min.)

Top Stop Strength (min.)

Chain Crosswise Strength

(min.)

Bottom Stop Strength

(min.)

Size 1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10

1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10

1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10

1-2 / 3-4 / 5-7 / 8-9 / 10

Brass/Nickel 20 / 25 / 30 / 40 / 60

10 / 15 / 15 / 30 / 30

50 / 75 / 120 / 150 / 150

7 / 10 / 10 / 20 / 30

Aluminum 20 / 25 / 35 / 40 / 60

10 / 15 / 15 / 20 / 20

50 / 50 / 75 / 80 / 100

7 / 10 / 10 / 15 / 20

Plastic/Nylon 20 / 25 / 35 / 40 / 40

15 / 15 / 20 / 30 / 30

50 / 50 / 75 / 80 / 100

8 / 10 / 15 / 15 / 20

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Zipper Strength ASTM D2061

CEF 15 / 15 / 30 / 50 /50 10 / 10 / 20 / 40

/ 60 50 / 50 / 100 /

150 / 200 7 / 8 / 15 / 40 /

60


26



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Composition Analysis

Fed. Std. 48a, Method 2

Feather and down only.

Oxygen number Fed. Std. 48a,

Method 4 Feather and down only.

Less than 10.0 for an oxygen cleanliness rating

Criteria Non-Permanent

Press Permanent

Press

Fabric Appearance Retention

3.5 4.0

Seam Appearance Retention

3.0 3.5

Wrinkle Resistance / Durable Press

AATCC 124 / 143

- For woven wrinkle-free garments if claimed. - Test all colors. - Report 3rd and 5th washes. Lab can skip 3rd washes result if 5th washes result is passed.

Crease Resistant 3.0 3.5

Determine Twist in both Woven & Knit Garments

AATCC 179 +/-5%

Water Repellency

AATCC 22 All colors. Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3 Launderings - 70 (ISO2)

Condition Height of Water Time Water

Absorption

Rain Shower

Water Resistance - Rain test

AATCC 35 All colors.

Storm 2 feet 2 minutes

Not more than 1.0 gram

Test Area General

Requirement Leather (Lining

only)

Color Change Class 4.0 Min. Class 3.5 Min. Staining Class 3.0 Min. Class 3.0 Min.

Colorfastness to Perspiration


Self Staining Class 4.5 Min. --- Garment/ Fabric

Type Color Type Hour Grade

Light/Med 10 hours 4.0 Dark 20 hours 4.0

Silk/swimwear

Fluorescent 10 hours 4.0 Leather All Colors 20 hours 4.0 Suede All Colors 20 hours 3.0

Colorfastness to Light


All Other Garments All Colors 20 hours 4.0

Colorfastness to Water


CC 4.0; CS 3.0; Self-Staining 4.5

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water

AATCC 162 All colors, except pastels and white. CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0

Colorfastness to Sea Water

AATCC 106 All colors, except pastels and white. CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0; CS 3.0; Self-Staining 4.5

Soil Release AATCC 130 4.0

Oil Repellency AATCC 118 For stain repellent. Original 5.0; After 3 washes 4.0

pH Value AATCC 81 White colors and

denim. pH 5.0 - 7.0

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Formaldehyde AATCC 112 Max. 75 ppm


27

IX. TESTING SUBMIT FORM

NTO Laboratory Testing Form (Apparel & Home Textiles)

Product # Requirement (Refer to vendor if not specified)

Package Fabric Testing (Apparel) Garment Testing

Note; Mark box below on fabric type

NOTE: IF TESTING FABRIC : circle if fabric is 1st order or Re-order below

NOTE: IF TESTING GARMENT: circle if garment is 1st order or Re-order below

First Order Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 First Order Item # 5, 6, 7, 8

Woven

Re-Order Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12 Re-Order Item # 5, 6, 7, 8

First Order Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 First Order Item # 6, 7, 8

Knit

Re-Order Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12 Re-Order Item # 6, 7, 8

First Order Item # 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12 First Order Item # 6, 7, 8

Sweater

Re-Order Item # 1, 2, 6, 7, 8, 11, 12 Re-Order Item # 6, 7, 8

Submit this page and next 2 pages (completed)


28

Home Textiles Test Package

Submit all colors for lab test.

Item # 1, 3, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12

Pro

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Item

#

Description Method 1 Fibre Composition AATCC 20/20A

2 Yarn Count ASTM D1059

3 Thread / Stitch Count ASTM D3775 / D3887

4 Fabric Weight ASTM D3776

5 Seam Strength ASTM D1683

6 Dimensional Stability to Washing / Commercial Dry-cleaning


7 Appearance After Washing / Commercial Dry-cleaning


8 Colorfastness to Washing and/or Commercial Dry-cleaning

AATCC 61 / 132

9 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach AATCC TS-001

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10 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach

11 Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8

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12 Flammability test US CPSC 16 CFR Part 1610 / 1630 /1631 / ASTM

D4151

Instructions: (1) SGS and INTERTEK labs are authorized to conduct testing for NTO.

(2) Vendor should refer to PO to inform the Lab whether it's first or re-order and the specification of each test item.

(3) Lab should automatically conduct the "Optional" test item(s) based on the guidance specified, if necessary. The test report should clearly state if any sample is exempted.

(4) Vendor will require to conduct second test for flammability on the semi-finished or end-product when needed.

(5) Final decision on acceptance will be made by NTO. (6) Test Report should be emailed to attn. PQM Manager/Brand,

(Norm Thompson) [email protected]; (Sahalie) [email protected]; (Solutions)[email protected]; (Gold Violin) [email protected] ; and the applicant/vendor

Require Additional test(s), please refer to those tick(s) on page 30 – and submit with test requests Note: mark box to left with X if additional tests are requested

Additional test is not required, do not attach page 30 with test request. Note: mark box to left with "X" if no additional tests are requested


29

ADDITIONAL TESTS submit form

Product # 0 Requirement (Refer to vendor if not specified) 0

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Item Mark box with "X" Description Method Thread Count ASTM D3775 Tensile Strength ASTM D5034 Bursting Strength ASTM D3786

Snap & Fabric Strength Modified ASTM D4846 / D1683

Eyelet Pull Strength

Snag Resistance ASTM D5362

Pilling Resistance ASTM D3512 Abrasion Resistance ASTM D4685 Stretch and Recovery ASTM D2594 / D3107 Zipper Strength ASTM D2061 Composition Analysis Fed. Std. 148a, Method 2 Oxygen number Fed. Std. 148a, Method 4 Wrinkle Resistance / Durable Press AATCC 124 / 143

Determine Twist in both woven & Knit garments

AATCC 179

Water Repellency AATCC 22

Water Resistance - Rain test AATCC 35 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Water AATCC 107 Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Colorfastness to Sea Water AATCC 106 Soil Release AATCC 130 Oil Repellency AATCC 118 Formaldehyde AATCC 112

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pH Value AATCC 81


30

OTHER TESTS

NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Others)

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Description Method Guidance Requirement 1 Fiber Composition AATCC 20/20A Not applicable for leather. No tolerance for single

fiber; +/-3% for blends 2 Thread / Stitch Count ASTM D3775 /

D3887 Not applicable for leather.

+/-5%

3 Abrasion Resistance ASTM D1630 - Not applicable to slippers. - Outsole only. Abrasion index 50%

4 Flexing Resistance ISO 5402 Upper only. No cracking after 50,000 cycles.

5 Ross Flexing Resistance ASTM D1052 Outsole only.

Max. 3mm growth in cut length after 20,000 cycles.

6 Slip Resistance ASTM F609 (Mod.) - Static and Kinetic - Dry and wet Min. 0.4

7 Bonding Strength ISO 17708 Upper and sole. Min. 3N/mm

8 Lead Content 16 CFR 1303 - Product that is handled or touched often. - Scrapable surface coating only. - Test all colors.

- Not exceed 90 ppm.

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9 UL listed UL related test(s) - Test AC items only. - Validity of certificate should be within 2 years.

Material Dry Wet

Textiles 4.0 3.0

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10 Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8 All colors, except pastels and white.

Leather 3.5 2.5


31

OTHER TESTS (continued)

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Mark box (below) with "X" for requested test Eyelet Strength Eyelet only. Min. 30 lbs.

Pull Through Strength Min. 35 lbs. for leather; Min. 25 lbs. for

rubber/others. Toe Strap Breakage Min. 25 lbs.

Reinforcement Effectiveness

Min. 25 lbs.

Tongue Strength Min. 30 lbs.

Setting Strength - For jewelry with plates.

- Test per each style. Min. 10 lbs.

Lace Strength Lace only. Min. 30 lbs. Seam Strength

ASTM D1683 (Mod.)

Min. 25 lbs.

Zipper Operability (Open/Closed)

ASTM D2062 Zipper only. Max. 5 lbs.

Lead Content 16 CFR 1303 - Product that is handled or touched often. - Scrapeable surface coating only. - Test all colors.

Should not exceed 90 ppm.

Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes

AATCC 23 - Textiles and/or foam material only. - White and light colors only. - One cycle

Color Change min. 4.0

Material Dry Wet Textiles 4.0 3.0

Colorfastness to Crocking


Leather 3.5 2.5 Color Change Min. 4.0 Staining Min. 3.0

Colorfastness to Perspiration

AATCC 15 - All colors, except pastels and white. - Inner component only. Self Staining Min. 4.5

Material Hour Grade Leather 10 hours 4.0

Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16 - Upper only. - All colors, except pastels and white. Suede 10 hours 3.0

Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water


CC 4.0; CC-Fluorescent 3.0; CS 3.0; Self-Staining 4.5

Water Repellency AATCC 22 All colors. Original Before Wash - 90 (ISO4); After 3

Launderings - 70 (ISO2) Condition (height of water 2 ft, duration 2 minutes)

Water Absorption

Rain Shower

Water Resistance - Rain test

AATCC 35 All colors.

Storm

Not more than 1.0 gram

Appearance after Storage

storage method All colors No bad and adverse appearance after storage of 48 hours, 95% relative humidity and 50 degrees Celsius

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UV Protection AATCC 183 For clothing, sunscreen or sunglass.

Min. UPF 40

Instruction; Same as mentioned in "NTO Laboratory Testing Protocol (Apparel)".


32

TESTING SUBMIT FORM (OTHER TESTS)

NTO Laboratory Testing Form (Others)

Product # Requirement (Refer to vendor if not specified) Hardline Test Package Footwear Test Package (mark box below with "X" for correct test request)

(mark box below with "X" for correct test request)

First & Re-Order

Item# 8 First Order

Item # 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10

Re-Order Item # 1, 2, 3, 7, 10

Electrical Test Package Bag Test Package (mark box below with "X" for correct test request) (mark box below with "X" for correct test request)

First & Re-Order

Item# 9 First & Re-Order

Item# 1, 10

Jewelry Test Package (mark box below with "X" for correct test request)

First & Re-Order

Item# 8

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#

Description Method 1 Fiber Composition AATCC 20/20A 2 Thread / Stitch Count ASTM D3775 / D3887 3 Abrasion Resistance ASTM D1630 4 Flexing Resistance ISO 5402 5 Ross Flexing Resistance ASTM D1052 6 Slip Resistance ASTM F609 (Mod.) 7 Bonding Strength ISO17708 8 Lead Content 16 CFR 1303

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9 UL listed UL related test(s)

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10

Colorfastness to Crocking AATCC 8


33

TESTING SUBMIT FORM (OTHER TESTS) (continued)

In addition to the above "Package" test, please test the item(s) selected below: (mark box below with "X" for correct test request)

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Description Method Eyelet Strength

Pull Through Strength

Toe Strap Breakage

Reinforcement Effectiveness

Tongue Strength

Setting Strength

Lace Strength

Seam Strength

ASTM D1683 (Mod.)

Zipper Operability (Open/Closed) ASTM D2062 Lead Content 16 CFR 1303 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes AATCC 23 Colorfastness to Perspiration AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Light AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Chlorinated Pool Water AATCC 162 Water Repellency AATCC 22 Water Resistance - Rain test AATCC 35 Appearance after Storage Storage method

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UV Protection AATCC 183 Instructions: (1) SGS and INTERTEK labs are authorized to conduct testing for NTO. (2) Vendor should refer to PO to inform the Lab whether it's first or re-order and the specification of each test item.

(3) Lab should automatically conduct the "Optional" test item(s) based on the guidance specified, if necessary. The test report should clearly state if any sample is exempted.

(4) Vendor should provide all colors to the Lab to conduct testing. (5) Vendor will require to conduct second test for flammability on the semi-finished or end-product when needed.

(6) Final decision on acceptance will be made by NTO. (7) Test Report should be emailed to attn. PQM Manager/Brand,

(Norm Thompson) [email protected]; (Sahalie) [email protected]; (Solutions)[email protected]; (Gold Violin) [email protected] ; and the applicant/vendor


34

X. APPENDIX

1- READ AND COMPLY

2- SPECS, CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET

3- GARMENT LABELS

• Specifications

• Garment Label Examples: Sewn in garment • Garment Label Examples: On body

4- ASTM CARE SYMBOLS


35

1- READ AND COMPLY DOCUMENT


36

2- SPECS, CARE & CONTENT SPECIFICATION SHEET


37

3- GARMENT LABELS

Following are specifications for Norm Thompson garment labels. All labels should be ordered from www.checkpointsystems.com


38

GARMENT LABELS-Specifications (continued)


39

GARMENT LABEL EXAMPLES: SEWN IN GARMENT Following are examples of our different labels as they would be sewn into garments. Please note these are examples only and your sizing/wording may differ from our examples.


40

GARMENT LABEL: ACTUAL “ON BODY” EXAMPLES


41

GARMENT LABEL : ACTUAL “ON BODY” EXAMPLES (continued)


42

ASTM CARE SYMBOL GUIDE

norm thompson apparel quality guidelines

Documents