no.58 lmz795 j61m34-sms mp (revised 10 dec 13)
DESCRIPTION
No.58 lmz795 j61m34-sms mp (revised 10 dec 13)No.58 lmz795 j61m34-sms mp (revised 10 dec 13)No.58 lmz795 j61m34-sms mp (revised 10 dec 13)No.58 lmz795 j61m34-sms mp (revised 10 dec 13)TRANSCRIPT
Issue Date / :
Revised Date :
STYLE : Fit Main Fabric Wash
Supplier Laundry
Series: Mill fab no. Gmt Vendor
Content Develop No.
Season: Front fly Construction Pattern Ref no.
Brand : Remark Weight 288gm/2 Width: 53" Prepared by
BP graph
REMARKS:
Refer to TOP STITCHING color thread indication on separate Page
D2 Seasonal
LC Johnny Ng
Low Rise JTTL-RF-DS-01308
Fall & Winter 2014 Zip 32's x 21's + 70D 167x104
Straight 98% Cotton 2% Spandex cavalry twill No.58
LMZ795 J61 M34795 regular chino J61 (Fabric Dye) M34 (Raven)
Regular Fit Join Win Wash as NAPA sample
MAN PACKOctober 31, 2013
December 10, 2013
Back pocket, refer to
Fabric C inner hem facing
Fabric C coin pocket facing
Issue Date: 30-Oct-13
Revised Dated :
Style No: LMZ795 J61 M34 Season :FW14
Fit Reference :
Develop # 58
SIZE COLOUR SIZE COLOUR
*** Thread 1 Coats EPIC C9954 (Dark grey) Main join seam / bottom hem
Join outseam with 5-threads safety overlock stitch 12 Tex 60 Thread 5 Tex 60 Thread 5
Topstitch Outseam (DN) 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
* Thread 4 Coats ASTRA DTM External Label Join inseam with 5-threads safety overlock stitch 12 Tex 60 Thread 5 Tex 60 Thread 5
** Thread 5 Coats ASTRA C9954 (Dark grey) Back rise (DN) 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Join Front crotch (DN) 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Leg bottom hem 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
* Thread 9 Coats ASTRA DTM Pocketing Waistband
* Thread 10 Coats ASTRA DTM Main Label Join waistband 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Topstitch Waistband - Top & bottom & side edge 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Make belt loops 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Attach belt loops on waisband (Bartack) 36 Tex 60 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 1
Keyhole buttonhole (BH) 42 Tex 60 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 1
(GIMP) Tex 210 Thread 1
Attach Coin pocket facing 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Bartack on Coin pkt opening 36 Tex 60 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 1
Close Coin pocket bag (self fabric) 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Topstitch Front pocket opening 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Bartack on Front pkt opening 36 Tex 60 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 1
Attach Front pkt opening facing (chainstitch w/ cover thread) 12 Tex 60 Thread 5 Tex 60 Thread 9
Stay Front pocket bag on sideseam 9 Tex 60 Thread 9 Tex 60 Thread 9
Close Front pkt bag (Lockstitch) 9 Tex 80 Thread 9 Tex 80 Thread 9
Serge back pkt facing 12 Tex 60 Thread 5 Tex 60 Thread 5
Attach back pkt facing 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Topstitch back pocket 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 5
Bartack on back pkt opening 36 Tex 60 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 1
Keyhole buttonhole on back pocket (BH) 42 Tex 60 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 1
(GIMP) Tex 210 Thread 1
Front Fly
Serge left fly 12 Tex 60 Thread 5 Tex 60 Thread 5
Attach zipper on left fly 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 80 Thread 1
Topstitch left fly - "J" stitch 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 5
- fly edge stitch 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 5
Serge right fly & zipper 12 Tex 60 Thread 5 Tex 60 Thread 5
Topstitch right fly at join seam 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 5
Bartack on fly / hidden bartack 36 Tex 60 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 1
Label & Leather patch
Attach Main Label 9 Tex 60 Thread 10 Tex 60 Thread 10
Attach External Label 10 Tex 60 Thread 4 Tex 60 Thread 9
Others
Topstitch back dart 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 1
Join Front waist panel (overlock stitch + lockstitch) 12 Tex 60 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 1
Attach hem inside facing 9 Tex 80 Thread 1 Tex 60 Thread 5
NEEDLE THREAD / TOP VIEW THREAD BOBBIN / LOOPER / UNDER VIEW
THREAD
** Thread details of operations that didn't mention on chart ,
will be follow the final approved sample . **
STITCH DETAILS
Washing effect :
THREAD COLOUR OPERATIONS SPI
Issue Date: 18-Nov-13
Revised Date : 9 Dec 13
Style No: LMZ795 J61 M34 Season :FW14
Develop # 58
Stitching Details & Construction: Sketches :
1) Waistband 2pcs waistband, cut seam at top edge waistband.
Top edge : 1/8" margin SN lockstitch
Bottom edge : 1/8" margin SN lockstitch
Side edge : 1/8" margin lockstitch (see sketch)
2) Inseam Join seam with 5-threads safety overlock, NO TOPSTITCH.
Add crotch bartack (see sketch)
3) Outseam Join seam with 5-threads safety overlock stitch,
1/4" DN topstitch along back sideseam.
4) Front rise Wrapped seam clean finish inside, 1/4" DN topstitch,
5/16" horizontal bartack at top of stitch (see sketch)
5) Back rise Felled Seam, 5/16 DN topstitch.
6) Front fly J stitch : 1/4" DN topstitch, (see sketch)
Top fly edge : 1/4" SN topstitch.
Fly hidden bartack (see sketch)
CONSTRUCTION SHEET (1 of 2)
Washing effect : Fit Reference :
Shank button / keyhole buttonholeposition
INSIDE VIEW OF UNDER FLY
All layers sew together, one overlock stitch only. ***
Keep distance between endof zip stopper and fly end bartack is 3/16"
Keep hidden bartack position 3/16" higher than lowest zip slider positioning.
Front fly zipper and hidden bartack position
Crotch Bartack
Waistband
OUTSIDE VIEW OF TOP FLY
CUT SEAM AT WAISTBAND TOP EDGE
1 1/2"
lockstitch
Stitch of inside button do not show on top waistband
INSIDE VIEW OF TOP FLY
lockstitch
1 3/4" 1/8" SN topstitch.
OUTSIDE VIEW OF UNDER FLY
7/16"
1 1/2"
Shape of Front fly stitch
5/16"
3/4"
1 3/4"
Issue Date: 18-Nov-13
Revised Date : 9 Dec 13
Style No: LMZ795 J61 M34 Season :FW14
Develop # 58
Stitching Details & Construction: Sketches :
7) Front pocket Opening : Add self fabric facing, height about 1 1/4".
1/8" margin, 1/4" DN topstitch along opening edge.
"X" shape bartack at both ends for reinforcement.
Facing : Attach facing on pkt bag with 1/4" coverstitch
(#408 stitch type - top view coverstitch / bottom view
DN chainstitch)
Pocketing : Clean Finish around pkt bag. (see sketch)
8) Panel seam Join seam with overlock stitch + lockstitch.
(above frt pkt)
9) Coin pocket Opening : On seam opening, NO TOPSTITCH.
Vertical bartack at both ends for reinforcement.
Self fabric pocketing + check fabric facing (see sketch)
10) Back pocket Opening : Single Jet, 1/16" SN topstitch around,
Vertical bartack at both ends for reinforcement.
Pocketing : Clean Finish around pkt bag.
External Label position : see sketch
11) Back dart Triangle shape topstitch (see sketch)
12) Belt loop 1/4" DN coverstitch (bottom view) at centre of loop.
Top & Bottom Bartack place at 1/8" from edge.
**Bartack extend 1/16"
longer over loop edge. **Fold construction :
13) Bottom hem Attach check facing, top edge clean finish and sew with
SN topstitch.
3-fold hem, 3/8" SN topstitch. Overlapped stitch place at
nseam hem, its length do not exceed 3/4".
CONSTRUCTION SHEET (2 of 2)
Washing effect : Fit Reference :
Front & Coin Pocket
1/4" SN stitch Clean
finish on pkt bag edge
**Bottom view (on pkt bag) is chainstitch loop thread (stitch type #408)
Triangle stitch width at top is 5/8"
Back dart aligned centre of back pkt opening. ***
Vertical bartack at both ends for reinforcement. ****
External woven label is 4-sides sew, place at 1/2" above pkt seam. ***
Vertical bartack at BOTHends for reinforcement. **
Bartack.
Check fabric coin pocket facing (same check pattern as hem inside facing)
Coin pocket depth : 3 1/2"
Self fabric pocketing.
Clean finish on edge of check facing, attach on pocket bag with lockstitch.
BO
DY
FAB
RIC
"X" shape bartack
"X" shape bartack
facingheight 4"
Outside view of hem facing
Inside view of hem facing
Outside view of hem after rolled. **
3-fold hem, 3/8" SN stitch. **
Back pocket
Bottom hem
Cut seam
ou
tse
am
Join outseam hem facing BEFORE attach it on body. After rolled up, outseam hem facing must be clean finish. ****
Issue Date : November 18, 2013
Revised date :
Style No: LMZ795 J61 M34 Season :FW14
Develop # 58
Construction Sheet
Label & Belt loop placement
Washing effect : Fit Reference :
Back side belt loops, balance on both sides.
Front belt loops, balance on both sides.
AB
CB double belt loop, balance on both sides.
Belt loop position (sz 32) : A = align end point of panel /// B = 1 1/4" /// C = 2 1/4"
C
SAMPLE MEASUREMENT Issue Date : 18 Nov 13
Men's bottom
Style No: Season :
Date : 9-Dec-13 Date : Date : Date : Date :
Col : Col : Col : Col : Col :
TOL. Proto Meas. SMS Meas. PPS Meas.
POINT ( +/- ) ( +/- ) ( +/- )
A Waist at top edge +/- 1/2 34 34
B Waistband Height +/- 0 1 1/2 1 1/2
C Lower hip width - 4" above crotch - V meas +/- 3/4 41 1/2 41 1/2
D Thigh width - at crotch point +/- 1/2 25 25
E Knee width - 2" up from half of inseam +/- 1/4 17 17
F Bottom leg opening +/- 1/4 15 1/2 15 1/2
G Bottom hem height +/- 0 3/8 3/8
H Front rise length (incl. waistband) +/- 1/4 10 1/8 10 1/8
I Back rise length (incl. waistband) +/- 1/4 13 3/4 13 3/4
J Inseam +/- 1/2 33 33
K Front waist panel height - along sideseam +/- 1/8 1 1/2 1 1/2
L Front waist panel width - along waistband seam +/- 1/8 5 5
M Frt pkt opening width - along panel seam +/- 1/8 1 1/2 1 1/2
N Frt pkt opening length - along sideseam +/- 1/8 5 3/4 5 3/4
O Front pocket bag width +/- 1/8 7 7
P Front pocket bag depth - to bottom edge +/- 1/8 11 11
Q Coin pocket position - from front pocket edge +/- 0 1/2 1/2
R Coin pocket opening +/- 1/8 2 3/4 2 3/4
S Coin pocket depth - from opening edge to bottom +/- 1/8 2 1/2 2 3/4
T Back dart position (from CB) +/- 1/8 match centre of back pkt match centre of back pkt
U Back Pkt blw waistband - near sideseam +/- 1/8 2 5/8 2 5/8
V Back Pkt blw waistband - near CB +/- 1/8 2 5/8 2 5/8
W Back Pkt from CB +/- 1/8 2 1/2 2 1/2
X Back Pkt jet height (SINGLE) +/- 0 1/2 1/2
Y Back Pkt width - at opening +/- 1/8 5 3/4 5 3/4
Z Back Pkt depth - opening edge to bottom +/- 1/8 6 1/4 6 1/4
AA Belt loop length +/- 1/8 2 1/2 2 1/2
BB Belt loop width +/- 0 1/2 1/2
CC Zipper opening +/- 1/8 5 1/2 5 1/2
DD "J" stitch width (to outside stitch) +/- 0 1 1/2 1 1/2
DEVELOP #58 SAMPLE SIZE : 32Initial
Spec REMARKS
Revise
Spec
Revise
Spec
Revise
SpecMEASURE METHOD
LMZ795 J61 M34 FW14Washing effect : Fit Reference :
Revised
after No
.57
style (du
plicate style) P
roto
Samp
le fitting. **
MEASUREMENT CHART Issue Date :
Men's bottom
Style No: Season :
TOL.
POINT
A Waist at top edge +/- 1/2 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 4 6 8
B Waistband Height +/- 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
C Lower hip width - 4" above crotch - V meas +/- 3/4 -4 -3 -2 -1 0 1 2 4 6 8
D Thigh width - at crotch point +/- 1/2 -2 -1 1/2 -1 - 1/2 0 1/2 1 2 3 4
E Knee width - 2" up from half of inseam +/- 1/4 -1 - 3/4 - 1/2 - 1/4 0 1/4 1/2 1 1 1/2 2
F Bottom leg opening +/- 1/4 -1 - 3/4 - 1/2 - 1/4 0 1/4 1/2 1 1 1/2 2
G Bottom hem height +/- 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
H Front rise length (incl. waistband) +/- 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/8 - 1/4 - 1/8 0 1/8 1/4 1/2 3/4 1
I Back rise length (incl. waistband) +/- 1/4 - 1/2 - 3/8 - 1/4 - 1/8 0 1/8 1/4 1/2 3/4 1
J Inseam +/- 1/2 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
K Front waist panel height - along sideseam +/- 1/8 - 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/4 - 1/4 0 0 1/4 1/4 1/2 1/2
L Front waist panel width - along waistband seam +/- 1/8 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
M Frt pkt opening width - along panel seam +/- 1/8 - 1/4 - 1/4 - 1/4 0 0 0 0 1/4 1/4 1/4
N Frt pkt opening length - along sideseam +/- 1/8 - 1/4 - 1/4 - 1/4 0 0 0 0 1/4 1/4 1/4
O Front pocket bag width +/- 1/8 - 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/4 - 1/4 0 0 1/4 1/4 1/2 1/2
P Front pocket bag depth - to bottom edge +/- 1/8 - 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/2 0 0 0 0 0 0
Q Coin pocket position - from front pocket edge +/- 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
R Coin pocket opening +/- 1/8 - 1/4 - 1/4 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
S Coin pocket depth - from opening edge to bottom +/- 1/8 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
T Back dart position (from CB) +/- 1/8 -------------------------------------------------- match centre of back pkt --------------------------------
U Back Pkt blw waistband - near sideseam +/- 1/8 - 1/4 - 1/4 - 1/4 0 0 0 0 1/4 1/4 1/4
V Back Pkt blw waistband - near CB +/- 1/8 - 1/4 - 1/4 - 1/4 0 0 0 0 1/4 1/4 1/4
W Back Pkt from CB +/- 1/8 - 1/8 - 1/8 - 1/8 0 0 1/8 1/8 1/4 1/4 1/4
X Back Pkt jet height (SINGLE) +/- 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
Y Back Pkt width - at opening +/- 1/8 - 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/4 - 1/4 0 0 0 1/4 1/4 1/4
Z Back Pkt depth - opening edge to bottom +/- 1/8 - 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/4 - 1/4 0 0 0 1/4 1/4 1/4
AA Belt loop length +/- 1/8 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
BB Belt loop width +/- 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
CC Zipper opening +/- 1/8 - 1/2 - 1/2 - 1/2 0 0 0 0 1/2 1/2 1/2
DD "J" stitch width (to outside stitch) +/- 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 0
REMARKS
MEASURE METHOD32 33 34 36 38 40
Grade spec is not final
DEVELOP #58 SIZE : 28 29 30 31
LMZ795 J61 M34 FW14Washing effect : Fit Reference :
Issue Date / :
Style no. Season Submit Re-fit sample Proto Approved Approved for proceed PPS with
Mock up for approval corrections.
TRIMS :
CONSTRUCTION / WORKMANSHIP :
SMS comments : (SMS proceeded by
MEASUREMENTS / FIT :
COMMENT SHEET 評語表
LMZ795 J61 M34FW14
Issue Date / :
Style no. Season Submit Re-fit sample Proto Approved Approved for proceed PPS
Mock up for approval with corrections.
COMMENT SHEET 評語表
LMZ795 J61 M34FW14
SMS Fit Photos : (Fit Model : Jason)
Issue Date / :
Revised date :
Style no Fit Main Fabric Wash
Supplier Laundry
Series Mill fab no Gmt Vendor
Content
Season Construction Ref no
Brand Remark Weight 288gm/2 Width 53" Prepared by
Fabric Details /
Shell: Shell A : A position Trim Fabric B: position Trim Fabric C: Trim Farbic D:
Code J61 (Fabric Dye) body Code pkt bag Code J41 Code
T/C 108 x 58 / 21 x 21
Content 98% Cotton 2% Spandex cavalry twill Content Content 100% Cotton Content
Colot Colot Semi-bleach Colot K16 Navy Colot
Position Position Front pocket Position Inner hem, coin pocket facing Position
Remarks Remarks Remarks Remarks
Accys/Trims
Size Size Size
Thread 1 Coats EPIC C9954 (Dark grey)
Tex 60 &
Tex 210Tex 60 Tex 80
Thread 4 Coats ASTRA DTM External Label Tex 60
Thread 5 Coats ASTRA C9954 (Dark grey) Tex 60 Tex 80
Thread 9 Coats ASTRA DTM Pocketing Tex 60 Tex 80
Thread 10 Coats ASTRA DTM Main Label Tex 60
Sty ref Size Combo COL :
Lee 4YG Teeth Tape Slider
Brass 0 75 Brass
Button 1 trim MasterLBN-744 28L c# B
Lee 4-holes Black 1
Button 2 trim MasterLBN-740 24L c# B
Black 2 Back pocket
Rivet
Leather Patch
Main label Wah Sing
LWL-236
33 x
26mm C# A
black .
Yellow&white
wording
1
Woven label Wah Sing
LWL-299
22(W) x
33(L) mm Co# B
Beige ground
blue wordings1
Care label
LCL-302
white groud /
black wording1
Pocketing stitch Close pocket bag
Needle and Bobbin thread of Main Label
Thread
Keyhole buttonhole (waistband &
back pocket) "See page of Stitch details" "See page of Stitch details"
"See page of Stitch details" "See page of Stitch details"
Wash as NAPA sample
0
Join Win
No.58
M34 (Raven)
32's x 21's + 70D 167x104
TRIM SHEET October 31, 2013
0
Zipper 1 YKK Olive
Trim Category Position Position Position
Needle thread of External Label
LMZ795 J61 M34795 regular chino J61 (Fabric Dye)
D2 Seasonal
0
Front Fly
Low Rise JTTL-RF-DS-01308
Zip
Straight 98% Cotton 2% Spandex cavalry twill
Regular Fit
Fall & Winter 2014
LC 0
Insert into wearer's left side waistband, 2" from side seam
Wearer's right back of inside waistband, 3 1/2" from sideseam
Right back side align center of back pkt, and 1/2" above pkt jet
seam. 4-sides sew.
Center front of waistband
Center Front Closer
Johnny Ng
Description :
1
Label
Trim
Care Labels for Tops & Bottom in multi-
languages (Double sides printed label)
Lee, 4-holes
Zipper 2
Issue Date / :
Style no Fit Main Fabric Wash
Front Fly Supplier Laundry
Accys/Trims
Qty
Plastic Bag 1
Price Tag 1
Gurantee Card 1
"col transfer" Tag
"Stretch" Tag 1
Warning Tag (general) 1
Pocket Flasher
Packing Method
Box BSM-001
Hangtag 4.3 x 6cm 1 1/2" away from front left belt loop toward sideseam
under Lee guarantee card (toether with the guarantee card)
NA
Regular Fit Join Win Wash as NAPA sample
Use black cord hanging at right side beltloop
STEAM ONLY NO PRESS
Printed black ground white wordings
LMZ795 J61 M34795 regular chino J61 (Fabric Dye)
TRIM SHEET
Printed black ground white wordings
Trim name Trim code
White Ground w/Black wordings
NA
October 31, 2013
Put garment into this
Printed BLACK ground WHITE wordings
under Lee guarantee card (toether with the guarantee card)
Next to leather patch, with barcode sticker
Color / Description Position
PE04 (Recyclable) Man Ming Hung Tai Mfg. Co., Ltd.
M34 (Raven)
OTHER
Packing
Method
Size : 19"L x 15"W
LPL-699 Regular
TBA
TBA
015
NA
LPL-753
Issue Date / :
: :
Folding sequence
PACKING October 31, 2013
LMZ795 J61 M34Fall & Winter 2014
Issue Date / :
Style no. Season
Date: Revised by : Date: Revised by :
RIVISION HISTORY October 31, 2013
LMZ795 J61 M34FW 14