new zealand trip report - tropical birding€¦ · trip report: new zealand dates: 31 december 2010...
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TRIP REPORT: NEW ZEALAND
DATES: 31 DECEMBER 2010
GUIDE AND PHOTOGRAPHS
My first trip for the year was to
repeat; for a combination of great birding and incredible scenery, New Zealand
ultimate destinations. This particular trip was designed to be easy going, and focussed
particularly on the endemic birds of this island nation. With only two weeks it was difficult
to fit everything in around these requirements, but we still managed a fine effort
up on the endemics that we targeted
We explored both the North and South Islands of New Zealand, also spending a couple of
days on Stewart Island off the far southern tip
and didn’t just include birds.
Pass and through the Eglinton Valley
hundreds of waterfalls poured
But, the birds still stole the show.
classic New Zealand, while other
the beach for their day at sea,
One of the undoubted highlights of any trip
else are pelagic seabirds as accessible as they are here.
couple of ferry rides, we racked up an incredible 25 species of
your boat (terrible pun intended), put New Zea
The enormous Wandering Albatross, and its 3.6 metre wingspan
NEW ZEALAND CUSTOM TOUR
31 DECEMBER 2010 – 13 JANUARY 2011
AND PHOTOGRAPHS: NICK LESEBERG
My first trip for the year was to New Zealand, land of the hobbits, and it is one I can’t wait to
repeat; for a combination of great birding and incredible scenery, New Zealand
ultimate destinations. This particular trip was designed to be easy going, and focussed
mic birds of this island nation. With only two weeks it was difficult
to fit everything in around these requirements, but we still managed a fine effort
up on the endemics that we targeted, and enjoying a relaxed pace for the whole two weeks
explored both the North and South Islands of New Zealand, also spending a couple of
days on Stewart Island off the far southern tip. The trip highlights were many and varied,
and didn’t just include birds. We enjoyed Fox Glacier, the impressive drive
and through the Eglinton Valley, and an amazing cruise around Milford Sound,
ed off the cliffs steepling above us.
the birds still stole the show. A friendly Southern Brown Kiwi foraging on the be
classic New Zealand, while other highlights included Yellow-eyed Penguins waddling down
the beach for their day at sea, and the boisterous antics of the endemic New Zealand Kaka.
One of the undoubted highlights of any trip to New Zealand is the seabirds, and n
else are pelagic seabirds as accessible as they are here. During two pelagic boat trips and a
couple of ferry rides, we racked up an incredible 25 species of seabird, so
your boat (terrible pun intended), put New Zealand on your to do list!
The enormous Wandering Albatross, and its 3.6 metre wingspan - that’s nearly 5 yards!
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land of the hobbits, and it is one I can’t wait to
repeat; for a combination of great birding and incredible scenery, New Zealand is one of the
ultimate destinations. This particular trip was designed to be easy going, and focussed
mic birds of this island nation. With only two weeks it was difficult
to fit everything in around these requirements, but we still managed a fine effort, cleaning
, and enjoying a relaxed pace for the whole two weeks.
explored both the North and South Islands of New Zealand, also spending a couple of
. The trip highlights were many and varied,
We enjoyed Fox Glacier, the impressive drives up to Arthur’s
, and an amazing cruise around Milford Sound, where
A friendly Southern Brown Kiwi foraging on the beach was
eyed Penguins waddling down
and the boisterous antics of the endemic New Zealand Kaka.
birds, and nowhere
During two pelagic boat trips and a
seabird, so if seabirding floats
that’s nearly 5 yards!
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Note – The common names used by Clements for many New Zealand birds differs quite
markedly from the common names that are in wide usage within New Zealand, and
particularly in the popular field guides. I have used the Clements names in this report, but at
their first mention have included the more commonly used names in brackets to help avoid
confusion. Clements is also conservative regarding the taxonomy of New Zealand birds
when compared to some other authors, something to keep in mind when comparing lists
from other trips. A good example is the New Zealand Robin which is sometimes split into
three species. Although we saw all three Clements groups/subspecies, they are all recorded
here as just New Zealand Robin.
Day 1 – Friday, 31 December 2010
Our trip began in the far south of New Zealand’s South Island, in the harbour city of
Dunedin. After meeting at the airport we decided to head down the coast towards The
Catlins, one of the last large areas of forest in this part of New Zealand. We made our first
stop at Nugget Point, a rocky headland which juts out into the Southern Ocean, and which
provides a good opportunity to get a handle on some of the common seabirds we would see
throughout the trip.
As we approached the coast we saw our first
Swamp Harriers; in New Zealand it seems
that you are rarely out of sight of one of these
majestic raptors. We picked up our first Red-
billed and Kelp (Black-backed) Gulls (not the
Black-backed Gulls U.S birders are familiar
with) before arriving at the point and
commencing the walk out. We soon had our
first introduced passerines, a feature of New
Zealand’s open areas, as we added Dunnock,
Yellowhammer and Common Redpoll to the
list. From the towering cliffs we looked down
at a Royal Spoonbill colony, with about
twenty birds nesting on a nearby rock stack.
Birds passing by included our first Spotted
Shags, an endemic cormorant which is
common in most coastal areas, and on the
rocks below there was a colony of New
Zealand Fur-Seals. With breeding season in
full swing, we watched the antics of many tiny
pups flopping around and play-fighting with
The view south along the Catlins coast
from Nugget Point.
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each other. As we moved out towards the lighthouse on the end of the point some large
seabirds circling behind a fishing boat drew our attention, and we were able to pick out our
first distant White-capped Albatross. Not very satisfying views, but not to worry, we would
see these guys within metres in a couple of days.
Red-billed Gulls (above) are a common coastal bird, and from Nugget Point we were able
to see a breeding colony, continually being harassed by predatory Kelp Gulls.
From the end of the point we were able to observe a breeding colony of Red-billed Gulls,
and another of White-fronted Terns. On a distant stack we could also see a group of
another endemic, the Bronze (Stewart Island) Shag. Watching the activity here was
interesting, with terns and gulls coming and going to their nests, while marauding Kelp Gulls
circled overhead. A commotion in the middle of the Red-billed Gull colony revealed one of
these Kelp Gulls flying off with a small chick in its bill, while the Red-billed Gulls chased in
vain.
After soaking up our fill of the beautiful views north and south along the coast, we decided
to move on to the Catlins Forest Park. We stopped for lunch before birding the forest and
coming to grips with our first woodland birds. Although the wind had picked up, at ground
level things were still calm and the birds moving around. Our first sighting was a small
foraging party of the endemic Pipipi (Brown Creeper), which remained quite high up in the
canopy. Moving along we picked up some of the more common birds like Silvereye and also
our first of the two endemic honeyeaters, New Zealand Bellbird. We then hit a small mixed
flock, with the first bird to reveal itself a delightful little Tomtit. These small black-and-white
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robins are quite common throughout New Zealand, and are very photogenic. They are
extremely responsive to pishing, coming in closely to investigate, and although their
preferred habitat is often quite dark, with persistence we managed some good photos.
A continuous high-pitched contact call
drew our attention to the next target
bird, the tiny little Rifleman. These
diminutive birds behave like nuthatches
as they forage up and down tree trunks
and along branches. They are often
high up, and being so small (only a few
inches long) they are very difficult to
find. It took us quite some searching
before we found a couple of these birds
foraging low down, and managed to get
prolonged views of this fantastic little
bird. After watching the Rifleman (is
the plural Riflemen?) we started our
return to the car, picking up one more
new bird on the way. The impressive
New Zealand Pigeon is quite common
in the forested areas of New Zealand,
and we startled a very friendly pair off
the side of the track which didn’t move
far and gave us great looks. On that
note we decided to call it a day and
head back to Dunedin, our base for the
night. It was to be an early start in the
morning, so we were happy to have an
early finish.
Day 2 – Saturday, 1 January 2011
A new day, a new year, and what better way to kick things off than with a new bird? We
were up early this morning to get out to Aramoana where we were hoping to catch some
Yellow-eyed Penguins on their way out fishing for the day. Although among the rarest
penguins in the world, there are several accessible colonies scattered along the south-east
coast of New Zealand’s South Island. The birds return to shore every night to roost in thick
vegetation behind the beach, where they also breed, so an early morning or late evening
trip to see these birds at one of these beaches will generally be successful. As we arrived at
the beach it was clearly going to be a beautiful day, but unfortunately the bright sunshine
The always inquisitive Tomtit can be seen in most
forested areas throughout New Zealand.
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meant the penguins were up early as well. We got to the beach just in time to see four
Yellow-eyed Penguins disappear into the surf and join a group of about seven birds loafing
just beyond the breakers.
We sat down to wait for any stragglers, which gave us an opportunity to see what else was
around. There was a pair of endemic Variable Oystercatchers feeding along the beach, with
two well grown chicks in tow, while Kelp Gulls and Red-billed Gulls were floating around.
We watched in amusement as another oystercatcher flew past the beach, only for the
resident pair to immediately commence a threat display accompanied by much calling. The
visitor knew he wasn’t welcome and aborted his landing to press on for friendlier territory.
Shortly after we saw a head poke out from the vegetation at the back of the beach, and as
we kept still, another Yellow-eyed Penguin started to wander down towards the surf. This
one wasn’t so sure, and after turning around a few metres into his dash, decided to press
on. We watched in amusement as he waddled awkwardly as quickly as he could (which was
not that quickly) to the surf. Once he hit the water though it was a different story; suddenly
in his element he porpoised gracefully out through the breakers to join his mates.
This pair of Variable Oystercatchers, their red bills glowing in the morning sun, were
vigorously defending their stretch of beach and two well-developed chicks.
Leaving the beach, we made two more stops nearby. From the north side of Otago Harbour,
we had a good view across to Taiaroa Head on the south side. On this headland is the only
mainland breeding colony of Royal Albatross, and with the telescope we could see several
pairs scattered across the steep northern bank. We didn’t loiter for long, as we were hoping
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for closer views of these impressive birds on our pelagic trip tomorrow. Our next stop was a
small area of mudflats, where we picked up a few common waders. The first was
Island Oystercatcher, another endemic we would see plenty of
weeks. We also got Paradise Shelducks
the mudflats with several Pied Stilts
hit the road north towards Christchurch.
About an hour north of Dunedin we made a stop at the Katiki Point lighthouse nea
Moeraki. While not expecting
photography, as many of the birds are quite used to people and all
approach. It is also the location of another Yellow
to get one or two out in the open. As we strolled down the slope in the bright sunshine we
were immediately rewarded with a
fluffy brown chick. They were surprisingly out in the open,
seemed quite unperturbed by our presence only a few metres away. The furious clicking of
shutters for several minutes didn’t bother t
This adult Yellow-eyed Penguin and its chick were enjoying the bright sunshine
together at Katiki Point. They were about a metre apart, but we were so close I couldn’t
get them both in frame on my camera without the f
for closer views of these impressive birds on our pelagic trip tomorrow. Our next stop was a
small area of mudflats, where we picked up a few common waders. The first was
, another endemic we would see plenty of during
Paradise Shelducks and Double-banded (Banded) Plovers
Pied Stilts. With nothing else around we needed, we decided to
road north towards Christchurch.
About an hour north of Dunedin we made a stop at the Katiki Point lighthouse nea
Moeraki. While not expecting any new birds here, this is a fantastic location for
photography, as many of the birds are quite used to people and allow relatively close
approach. It is also the location of another Yellow-eyed Penguin colony, and we were hoping
to get one or two out in the open. As we strolled down the slope in the bright sunshine we
were immediately rewarded with a Yellow-eyed Penguin parent, standing guard over their
fluffy brown chick. They were surprisingly out in the open, basking in the sunshine,
seemed quite unperturbed by our presence only a few metres away. The furious clicking of
shutters for several minutes didn’t bother them either.
eyed Penguin and its chick were enjoying the bright sunshine
together at Katiki Point. They were about a metre apart, but we were so close I couldn’t
get them both in frame on my camera without the fence getting in the way!
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for closer views of these impressive birds on our pelagic trip tomorrow. Our next stop was a
small area of mudflats, where we picked up a few common waders. The first was South
the next couple of
banded (Banded) Plovers foraging on
. With nothing else around we needed, we decided to
About an hour north of Dunedin we made a stop at the Katiki Point lighthouse near
any new birds here, this is a fantastic location for
ow relatively close
eyed Penguin colony, and we were hoping
to get one or two out in the open. As we strolled down the slope in the bright sunshine we
parent, standing guard over their
basking in the sunshine, and
seemed quite unperturbed by our presence only a few metres away. The furious clicking of
eyed Penguin and its chick were enjoying the bright sunshine
together at Katiki Point. They were about a metre apart, but we were so close I couldn’t
ence getting in the way!
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We continued out the point,
stopping along the way to watch
and photograph more Red-billed
Gulls and White-fronted Terns,
before getting a surprise as we saw
a head peering out from what I’d
assumed were rabbit burrows. This
head belonged to a Little Penguin
though! We found several resting in
nearby burrows, perhaps sunning
themselves at the entrance. Other
sightings included nice ‘scope views
of Spotted Shags, while Bronze
Shags flew past and some New
Zealand Fur-Seal pups played and
fought in the rock pools. We spent a
very enjoyable hour here, relishing a
great wildlife experience before
time pressed and we had to move
on.
Continuing north along the coast
there weren’t many stops for birds
as we moved through the rural
landscape. We eventually arrived at
Lake Ellesmere, just south of
Christchurch, a large shallow lake
where we hoped to find a few waders to add to our list. We crossed the open grasslands to
the lake shore, flushing several Eurasian Skylarks on the way. From the water’s edge we
could see thousands of ducks out on the lake, but the heat haze made identification quite
difficult. Only the Black Swans stood out.
We inspected the edge of the lake closely, and we soon found our target bird, a lone
Wrybill. Moving closer though, we were rewarded as a party of about eight birds came into
view, all foraging on the exposed mud. The Wrybill is quite a plain bird really, except for one
amazing feature - its bill is bent to the side. It is the only bird in the world (I’m told) with a
laterally assymetrical bill, and with the ‘scope we were able to pick up on this feature while
also watching the bird use its bill to feed. They spent a lot of time holding their heads tilted
to the left, and sifting through the surface mud. After soaking up the Wrybills we headed
towards Christchurch, making a couple of brief stops to pad our list with some of the
introductions we hadn’t ticked yet, including European Greenfinch and European Goldfinch.
The endemic Spotted Shag is a common bird, right
around the New Zealand coastline.
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Following that it was in to Christchurch, where we celebrated a great start to the New Year
with a fantastic pub dinner and some beers.
Day 3 – Sunday, 2 January 2011
We enjoyed a latish start today, as our
only commitment for the day was to
make it to Kaikoura, a couple of hours
up the coast for one of the highlights
of the trip, the Kaikoura Pelagic. Prior
to any boat trip, my attention always
turns to the weather, as it can make or
break the day. It can also be a little
counter-intuitive. While a nice day
with no wind makes for very pleasant
conditions aboard the boat, it is not so
good for seabirds. They rely on the
wind to carry the smell of food across
the ocean, and also to get airborne
and cruise around in search of that
food. So, you pray for a little wind, but
not so much that it makes the trip too
uncomfortable and seasickness an
issue. As we departed Christchurch in
the morning, we tuned in to the
weather forecast, and fortunately
things were looking good, almost
perfect: high cloud with a little breeze,
although there was the threat of a
southerly change arriving later in the
day.
On our way to Kaikoura we made a stop at St Anne’s Lagoon, to pick up a few ducks that we
needed. We didn’t even have to get out of the car to add a couple of birds to the trip list, as
a small dam on the entrance road held a couple of Purple Swamphens (Pukekos), a pair of
Pacific Black (Grey) Ducks, and a lone Australasian Shoveler. Moving up to the main lagoon
we picked up Black Swan, Grey Teal and our target, New Zealand Scaup, another endemic.
Circling the lagoon we were able to get great views of all these birds, and also pick up a
bonus as we spied a group of Cape Barren Geese, an Australian bird which has established a
small population here.
A magnificent Wandering Albatross glides in front
of the Seaward Kaikoura Ranges, all part of the
amazing Kaikoura Pelagic experience.
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Leaving the lagoon we continued to Kaikoura, arriving for a fantastic little seafood lunch,
before checking in for our one o’clock trip. This pelagic has to be one of the great
birdwatching experiences in New Zealand, all because of a fortunate geological
circumstance; the continental shelf here at Kaikoura is only a mile or so off the coast. At the
edge of the continental shelf, deep water currents create upwellings which bring nutrient
rich water to the surface. This makes it a focal point for marine activity. The nutrients attract
the small fish, which attract the big fish, which attract the bigger fish, which attracts all
those things that eat any sort of fish, including seabirds. As we cruised out in our boat with
the magnificent backdrop of the Seaward Kaikoura Range behind us, we were salivating at
the possibilities ahead over the next few hours.
Within minutes we had picked up our
first new birds, as we came across
several rafts of Hutton’s Shearwaters.
These birds gather here during the
summer months to breed in remote
areas of the nearby mountain ranges;
their breeding grounds weren’t even
discovered until 1965. As we continued
out we soon attracted our first albatross,
as a mighty Wandering Albatross started
to follow the boat, perhaps hoping for a
free feed. After about ten minutes we
stopped and our skipper Garry got the
chum ready, a disgusting mixture of fish
offcuts and offal, which is evidently
irresistible to seabirds. Within minutes
we had attracted three Wandering
Albatross, including both gibsoni and
antipodensis subspecies. They were
joined by a bunch of Northern Giant-
Petrels who all settled on the water to
try and pick up the scraps, while several
White-capped and one Salvin’s Albatross
also landed nearby.
Our attention then turned to those seabirds which started to drift in and check out the
action. We soon had several Buller’s Shearwaters circling the boat, and a collection of large
dark petrels. With care we were able to separate White-chinned and Westland Petrels, as
well as a few Flesh-footed Shearwaters. We got a quick flypast from a Sooty Shearwater,
before a Great-winged Petrel meandered in, made a quick circuit of the boat, then
disappeared. Another albatross on the horizon started to work its way in, and when it was
A graceful Buller’s Shearwater arcs above the
swell.
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close enough to make out the all dark wings we had completed the great albatross quinella,
with a magnificent Royal Albatross. It was soon joined by a second bird, both of the
northern race, sanfordi. Our next tick was an unexpected one, as a 2 metre long Blue Shark
suddenly appeared at the back of the boat. Surprisingly the birds didn’t seem in the least
concerned by it, as it also tried to score a free feed.
After about 30 minutes we decided to
push out a little further, so we pulled in
the chum and motored off, with most
of the birds we had already attracted
following us. At our next stop
conditions were noticeably bumpier,
with the swell picking up a bit, and
Garry hearing on the radio that boats
further south were getting increased
winds and swell also. Still, we threw in
the chum and soon had even more
birds crowding the back of the boat.
We picked up another new one as a
pair of small Fairy Prions came in to
the slick we had left, and then another
Royal Albatross arrived, this time of
the southern subspecies, epomophora.
With albatross taxonomy in a state of
flux, it is entirely possible that our day
list of four albatrosses will soon
become six, as the Wandering and
Royal Albatross subspecies are split
out.
Unfortunately at this point the wind started to pick up quite rapidly, as the southerly change
started to come through. Our skipper Garry decided that we had best head closer to shore,
but it soon became apparent that we wouldn’t be able to stay out any longer than we had
already. We pitched the chum overboard and watched the remaining birds, including a
newly arrived Cape Petrel demolish it, before heading back to the harbour. It was a quick
trip with a distant pod of Dusky Dolphins being seen by some, but the deteriorating
conditions meant we couldn’t hang around. It was disappointing to have to finish early, but
we had still seen all the birds we expected, and the trip was definitely a success. After
making it back to the harbour we enjoyed a relaxing afternoon tea, before taking the
opportunity to look around Kaikoura and take some photos of the very scenic surrounds.
We then called curtains, and made the uneventful drive back to Christchurch to finish the
day.
A snow white Royal Albatross joins the back of
the boat. Note the black wings and the dark
cutting edge to the bill.
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We saw both White-capped (top) and Salvin’s Albatross (bottom) on the Kaikoura
pelagic. Along with one other species, they were formerly lumped as Shy Albatross, but
although the body plumage on all birds is the same, head patterns are different.
Salvin’s Albatross has a prominent grey hood, unlike the White-capped.
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In spite of the name, the White-chinned Petrel (top) often doesn’t have an especially
obvious white chin, making it difficult to separate from the very similar Westland
Petrel (bottom). The black patterning on the bill of Westland Petrel is a good feature
to use at close range. We saw several of each off Kaikoura
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Day 4 – Monday, 5 January 2011
After a long day yesterday we had a latish start, and decided to chase up a report of the rare
and endemic Black Stilt at an estuary near Christchurch. With the weather from yesterday
well and truly gone, things looked glorious, with a beautiful sunny day greeting us as we
packed up the car. On arrival at the Ashley Estuary we immediately gave our list a kick, with
a pair of Sacred Kingfishers foraging along the river, while Bar-tailed Godwits, and a few
Wrybills worked the mudflats. On an exposed sandbar in the middle of the estuary we
watched a small colony of White-fronted Terns, with a few Black-billed Gulls scattered
throughout, another endemic added to the list. We scanned the estuary and were able to
pick out several Pied Stilts, and Double-banded Plovers, before a pair of Black-fronted
Terns worked their way down the river. We had good looks at this elegant bird, but after a
final fruitless search for the Black Stilt had to call it quits and move on.
We returned to Christchurch before
heading west towards the Southern
Alps, the range which runs down the
spine of the South Island. One of the
most scenic drives of the trip, we
would be climbing them today as we
headed to Arthur’s Pass, and then
across to the west coast. As we
approached the mountains we could
see quite a bit of threatening cloud,
and it looked like our fortunate run
with the weather was going to come
to an end. Crossing the enormous
valleys with mountains steepling
overhead, it was easy to imagine we
were stepping into a Lord of the
Rings set. Still, we kept our eyes
peeled for any birds which might
cross our path.
We stopped briefly for lunch as we
entered the beech forest which
covers many of the mountains up
here, and unfortunately experienced
our first drops of rain. As we ate
lunch in a little shelter we were still
able to watch another inquisitive
Tomtit, and more New Zealand
This Wrybill is still in breeding plumage – note the
black breast band. You can see the ’wry’ bill, which
apparently always bends to the right.
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Bellbirds, before leaving to continue to the top of the range. Arriving in Arthur’s Pass the
rain became more persistent, but this didn’t stop us getting our next new bird, a small party
of very boisterous Keas. These endemic parrots are alpine specialists, and here they have
learnt where an easy feed comes from; it is not uncommon to see them making a mess of
the rubbish bins, or pressing unsuspecting tourists for a handout!
Leaving the Keas behind, we commenced our descent off the range and also our search for
another elusive endemic, the Blue Duck. This duck is one of only a few torrent specialists in
the world, and with luck can be found in the fast running rivers on the slopes of the South
Island. They are notoriously difficult here though, and often require a lot of searching to
turn up the isolated pairs which live along these wild waterways. The upper Otira River is a
good spot for them though, so at our first opportunity we were out in the rain to inspect a
fast flowing section of river. Unfortunately all we ended up with was wet boots and
drenched raincoats, so at the next section I was responsible for the search, in an effort to
keep everyone relatively dry. More luck this time, as within a minute of getting out of the
car I had found a lone Blue Duck, resting on a rock right in the middle of the stream!
One of my favourite photos from the trip, this very obliging Blue Duck let us snap away for
at least ten minutes, apparently unconcerned at our presence.
Running back to the car, arms waving wildly, we were soon all lined up watching this
absolutely cracking bird, before it launched itself into the stream and started foraging in the
torrent, working its way upstream. It seemed completely oblivious to our presence and we
were able to rattle off some amazing photos of an amazing bird. The beautiful slate blue
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plumage camouflaged it perfectly against the stony background, and when it left the water
we could see the enormous feet which it uses to propel itself through the fast running
water. Definitely one of the trip highlights.
The Blue Duck again, this time working its way dexterously up the swiftly flowing stream.
With the duck in the bag we continued the spectacular descent of the range into Westland,
one of the truly wild areas of New Zealand. Here, the wild rivers still run fast and free, and
the moss-draped rainforest covers the mountain slopes. As the moist air blows in off the
Tasman Sea, it hits these mountains and rises, causing the incredible amounts of rain which
sustain this wild country. Unfortunately for us, this rain was well established today, and as
we hit the coast and turned south it didn’t look like abating. Still, as we continued we were
able to pick out a few more birds. New Zealand Pigeons were common in the forest, and
every open area seemed to have a resident Swamp Harrier. There were plenty of South
Island Oystercatchers and Paradise Shelducks in the fields, and we also picked up another
pair of Cape Barren Geese on a roadside dam, and a Great Egret (White Heron).
As we arrived at our overnight stop of Franz Josef, the rain was still persistent.
Unfortunately this meant that our night time excursion to find the Okarito Brown Kiwi had
to be cancelled. Any search for these birds in the forest relies mainly on sound as you try to
hear them foraging in the undergrowth. With the constant sound of rain it is nearly
impossible to locate them, so we had an early dinner and decided to turn in early, allowing
us an early start in the morning.
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Day 5 – Tuesday, 4 January 2011
Making use of our early night, we
were up this morning and on our way
to the nearby town of Okarito to try
and snare a few new birds for our list.
Our first stop was at a short walk
through some swamp and forest,
where our target was the endemic
Fernbird. It was a cool and overcast
morning, so conditions for birding
were very pleasant, and we hadn’t
been out of the car long before we
had picked up Pipipi (Brown
Creeper), Tomtit, Grey Gerygone
(Warbler) and Silvereye. As we
looked out over the extensive
swampy grassland we could see
many Common Redpoll, and they
diverted our attention from a very
friendly visitor, a curious New
Zealand Robin which arrived to
search for insects along the edge of
the track. We were able to watch this
great little bird for several minutes –
unfortunately it was too close most
of the time for our cameras to focus
on!
We continued along the trail and entered a section of forest where we encountered some
New Zealand Bellbirds, and then our first New Zealand Fantails of the trip. These very
charismatic little birds are always active, twisting from side to side, fanning their white tails
and generally never sitting still. We watched a small party of three chasing each other
through the trees, and in spite of the activity still managed a few reasonable photos of this
very cute bird. Leaving the forest we searched the edge of the swamp again, before hearing
the distinctive insect like call of a Fernbird off the track. Unfortunately it was proving to be
very shy and after ten minutes hadn’t revealed itself, so we moved around the track and
closer to the call. It took some searching, but eventually we picked up a pair of cryptically
coloured Fernbirds foraging low down in the dense undergrowth.
We left the swamp behind and proceeded down to the actual township of Okarito, where
we parked the car and took a walk through the streets. More a settlement than a town,
This New Zealand Robin was so friendly, he was
usually too close to focus on!
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there are only a handful of houses here, and the only road in town was lined with many flax
plants, most in flower. This was attracting plenty of Silvereyes, New Zealand Bellbirds and
Tuis. We had recorded a Tui (pronounced too-ee in case you’re wondering) earlier on the
trip, but had only had fleeting glimpses, so it was good to be able to soak up these very
captivating birds, with their shaggy manes and white cravats. As they chased each other
through the trees and fed on the flax flowers, they even allowed us close enough for some
good photos. After getting our fill of the Tuis, we called curtains on a very successful
morning and returned to Franz Josef for breakfast.
Our aim for the remainder of the day
was to continue south down the
coast of Westland, before crossing
the mountains to Queenstown. Our
first stop was at Fox Glacier, one of
two glaciers that are viewable on
this part of the coast. A short drive
up the access road gave us good
views of this retreating glacier, and
also a birding surprise. Diving in a
small pond to the side of the river
was another Blue Duck. Having
thought we were only a slim chance
to record this species given our
itinerary, we had now recorded two.
We then moved to a lookout on the
steep hills above the glacier, and
tried for some forest birds. Long-
tailed Koels were our target here,
but unfortunately there were none
calling. We did hear a Shining
Bronze-Cuckoo though, and got
some great views of the glacier.
Unfortunately a camera malfunction
means I can’t put any photos in here
to show you!
Leaving the glacier and heading south we made a quick stop at Knight’s Point, which gave us
good views both up and down the coast. There were some distant White-capped
Albatrosses and Sooty Shearwaters, but nothing new for the list. Because of our excellent
morning we were dragging our heels a little, so as we turned away from the coast and
climbed up over Haast’s Pass we didn’t really have time to stop for much. We enjoyed the
incredible scenery as we passed Lakes Wanaka and Hawea then made a stop at the top of
The flowering flax plants in Okarito were full of Tuis
(above) and New Zealand Bellbirds.
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the Crown Range to look out over Arrowtown, Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu. We
descended into Arrowtown for a delicious dinner before making it to our accommodation in
Queenstown where we crashed for the night.
Day 6 – Wednesday, 5 January 2011
Our target bird for today was the Black Stilt, a rare endemic wader with a very restricted
distribution. From our base in Queenstown we planned to strike out into the Mackenzie
Basin where we would bird the braided rivers and wetlands, searching for this little gem. We
decided to make it a late start after our demanding schedule so far, and didn’t get underway
until mid-morning. Unfortunately it was a pretty miserable day which was disappointing, as
on a sunny day the Mackenzie Basin is among the most stunning parts of New Zealand. You
can find yourself distracted from the birding with spectacular snow-capped mountains
climbing above you, while the aqua blue lakes in the north of the basin scream for photos,
with the sentinel-like Mount Cook rising in the background.
Approaching Twizel we perused a couple of small wetlands where we saw our first Canada
Geese for the trip, a common introduction in New Zealand. We also passed some fields
being ploughed, with large numbers of Kelp Gulls, South Island Oystercatchers and Black-
fronted Terns in attendance. We stopped for lunch in Twizel, and after a short break set off
to our first site, the Poaka Wetlands just outside town.
We took about 30 minutes to wander around this pleasant wetland area, but had no luck
finding any stilts. We did find some ducks though, with several New Zealand Scaup around
and the ubiquitous Mallard. Having decided to head off, we checked one last sandbank, and
met with success; there was a lone Black Stilt resting there. It was only a young bird, with
some white still in the plumage, but with the ‘scope we were able to pick out the
characteristics that convinced us we were looking at a Black Stilt rather than a hybrid
Black/Pied Stilt. Still, it was a little unsatisfying, a bit like ticking a bird-of-paradise having
only seen the female, so we decided to keep searching for a full adult bird.
We checked a few nearby ponds and found several Pied Stilts, including a pair with very
young chicks, and also had probably our best looks at a resting Black-fronted Tern. Leaving
on our way to another site for the stilt, we passed Poaka again, and this time out on the
quiet ponds spied what looked like an adult Black Stilt. After hurriedly getting to the shore
and setting up the telescope we had fantastic views of a full, jet black adult stilt feeding
along the wetland edge. We watched this bird in worsening weather for a good 20 minutes
before the strengthening rain forced us into the car, and with our target bird in the bag, we
decided to leave the weather behind and head for home. We did make a brief stop just
outside Queenstown at Lake Hayes, where we were able to add Eurasian Coot and Great-
crested Grebe to the trip list, before making it back to our hotel and getting an early night.
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Day 7 – Thursday, 6 January 2011
Today is a fantastic day on the tour, and one I had been looking forward to immensely. Not
only are there some great birds on offer, but we pass through some of New Zealand’s finest
scenery before taking a cruise on the stunning Milford Sound in the remote south-west of
the South Island.
We left Queenstown early and drove quickly to Te Anau, where we proceeded up the
eastern edge of Lake Te Anau. This lake is bordered on the western side by the legendary
Murchison Mountains, wild and remote home of the only remaining natural population of
Takahe, a giant flightless swamphen. Although this population is not accessible to the public,
we would have a shot at seeing these incredible birds later in the trip at one of their
reintroductions sites. Passing the lake we entered the southern reaches of the grand
Eglinton Valley, its steep forest clad slopes and winding shallow river coming straight from a
Lord of the Rings set. We didn’t stop in the valley as we were hoping to get to the high
alpine slopes at the entrance to the Homer Tunnel for a crack at South Island (Rock) Wren,
before out cruise on Milford Sound. Approaching the tunnel is a truly awe inspiring
experience, as tremendous sheer cliffs climb above wild rivers, and waterfalls careen off the
high plateaus.
The boulder strewn slopes at the entrance to the Homer Tunnel are the inhospitable
habitat of the beautiful little South Island (Rock) Wren. The perspective doesn’t do this
landscape justice. The waterfalls in the background are several hundred metres high.
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Unfortunately this can be an inhospitable location, with avalanches during the winter and
howling cold winds possible at any time of year. We were lucky; on our arrival all we had to
contend with was light rain. Leaving the car we started our walk along the boulder strewn
slopes, straining our ears for the high pitched contact call that might lead us to a pair of
wrens. The call is so highly pitched that any wind makes it very difficult to hear, so we were
lucky to only be dealing with rain. After about fifteen minutes a small squeak grabbed our
attention. Pishing didn’t reveal any perpetrator, then just as we turned away, a spiffing little
South Island (Rock) Wren bounced up on a boulder and announced its presence. It was
soon joined by a mate, and then we were treated to a truly magical birding experience as
we spent about ten minutes watching these delightful birds work their way along the
boulders, feeding and posing for photographs.
An enigmatic bird, these
wrens along with the
Rifleman, belong to the New
Zealand Wren family and are
thought to be the most
ancient lineage of songbirds.
Their ecology is also poorly
understood; no one really
knows what they do in the
winter. The few locations
where they are found above
the snowline are covered in
snow during winter, and
although it had been
suspected the birds moved
lower down, there are no
records of the birds in the
winter months. It is now
thought that perhaps they
enter some kind of torpor, or
maybe survive under the
snow, being able to forage in
the air pockets left under
boulders. One thing that is for
sure, these guys are
absolutely cracking little birds,
and one my favourites in New
Zealand. The very cute South Island Wren. We were lucky to find a
pair of these birds which posed very nicely for some
photographs.
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Leaving the wrens behind we
continued through the Homer Tunnel
and down the other side to Milford
Sound. It was raining steadily as we
checked in for our cruise, but that was
not necessarily a bad thing. To use a
Campbellism (for those of you who
know Iain), the Milford Sound cruise is
a very ‘dude’ part of the tour. It is
aimed squarely at the tourist in all of
us, as there aren’t really any birds you
need to cruise the sound to see, but
coming to New Zealand and not seeing
Milford Sound would be criminal. It is
also said that Milford Sound needs to
be seen several times to really
appreciate its grandeur. One of the
most amazing things about the sound
is the hundreds of ephemeral
waterfalls which pour into it. On rainy
days (like this particular one), all of
these waterfalls are pouring furiously
from the high cliffs surrounding the
sound. It only has to stop raining for a
day or two (which is a rare occurrence
here), and most of these waterfalls dry
up completely.
So, we left the dock and spent the next couple of hours enjoying the natural beauty that
surrounded us. We also kept an eye out for the endemic Fiordland Penguin which can be
seen in the sound, although at this time of year they have finished breeding and mostly
gone to sea. As we briefly left the sound we spied a few Sooty Shearwaters skimming the
ocean, but otherwise things were quiet on the bird front. We made a stop at the
underwater observatory inside the sound which was interesting. The large amounts of fresh
water which pour into the sound cause a phenomenon called Deep Sea Emergence. The
layer of freshwater which constantly sits on top prevents the normal amount of light
penetrating the water. Coupled with the still conditions inside the sound, this creates an
environment very similar to that of much deeper water, and so marine life which is usually
restricted to much deeper water occurs in the shallow water of the sound. The underwater
observatory allows visitors to see these marine creatures up close.
Hundreds of waterfalls like these, careen off the
high cliffs that surround the spectacular Milford
Sound.
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We finished our cruise as the
weather improved, and returned to
the car for our return to Te Anau.
Leaving Milford Sound and slowing
the car at a narrow bridge, we were
lucky to hear the distinctive insect
like call of a Long-tailed Koel.
Stopping immediately we jumped
out of the car, and the bird called
again. This is a notoriously difficult
species to see, as they can be
unresponsive to tapes, but will call
continuously from the same hidden
perch. It seemed like this bird was
only metres from us, but after a
frustrating ten minutes we couldn’t
see it. Ready to give up, someone
glimpsed some movement in the
canopy and saw the bird’s tail. With
a little manoeuvring and if you held
your mouth like so, it was possible
with the ‘scope to see most of a
Long-tailed Koel, preening and
occasionally calling in the canopy;
unsatisfying, but tickable views of a
tough bird.
Leaving the koel behind we continued back up to the tunnel where we stopped again to find
the South Island Wrens, hoping for more photos. We were lucky to come across the pair in
the same place as earlier, and enjoyed watching and photographing these great little birds.
By this time it was getting quite late, so we pressed on to Te Anau, where our last new bird
was an Australasian Pipit, followed by a well deserved dinner and some rest before our
assault on Stewart Island the next day.
Day 8 – Friday, 7 January 2011
Having connected with most of the birds we needed so far, we had an easy start to the day
with some forest birding around Te Anau. We didn’t get anything new for the list, but were
able to get some photos of a few more common species we had already seen. Some obliging
From the underwater observatory on the edge of the
sound it is possible to see the beautiful marine life,
some which usually occurs in much deeper water.
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Tomtits put on a show, while the ringing calls of Tuis and New Zealand Bellbirds echoed
through the forest. We saw a range of introduced species like Common Redpoll and
Dunnock, as well as a few of the smaller native birds like Grey Gerygone and Silvereye.
Leaving Te Anau we worked our way towards Invercargill, getting a few Black-billed Gulls on
the way.
New Zealand Bellbirds are quite common throughout New Zealand. It is not uncommon to
see Tuis or Bellbirds with yellow foreheads like this one, as they become dusted with the
pollen of flax flowers.
In Invercargill we stopped for lunch, and did a little shopping before proceeding out to Bluff,
the departure point for our ferry to Stewart Island. It had turned into a very blustery and
windy day, which was a double-edged sword. The Foveaux Strait, between the South Island
and Stewart Island can be notoriously rough, and with the strong winds our boat trip was
going to be very unpleasant. If you can stand the wind and swell though, taking a position
on the back deck of the boat in such conditions can result in some great birds, so that’s
where this foolish guide tried to stick it out. It was worth the effort.
Within minutes of leaving the safety of the harbour the first of hundreds of Sooty
Shearwaters were rolling past, then for a split second a large Pterodroma petrel revealed
itself between the waves. With the briefest of views I suspected White-headed Petrel, but
unfortunately it was not seen well enough to tick. Still, it got the juices flowing, and soon we
had a White-capped Albatross following the boat, while a couple of Fairy Prions crossed our
wake. A small seabird fluttering away from the boat was our first Common Diving-Petrel,
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followed by several more, with some quite close and giving good views. A flash of white
from the underwing of a nearby bird had me inspecting closely, revealing another first, this
time the sought after Mottled Petrel. At this time of year these birds are breeding on a few
of the islets around Stewart Island, and over the next forty minutes nearly twenty of them
passed by the boat. Following the excitement of the petrel we added two new birds to the
list, a marauding Northern Giant-Petrel which followed the boat briefly, and a lone Short-
tailed Shearwater among the Sootys. Conditions calmed as we entered Halfmoon Bay and
we received an unexpected surprise as we came alongside the jetty. An albatross cruising
around inside the bay was not the expected White-capped, but a Buller’s Albatross.
Uncommon at this time of year, this was a bonus bird we were happy to get on the list.
After checking in to our accommodation
we had some local fish and chips for
dinner, before taking a rest in
preparation for our night time excursion
in search of Southern Brown Kiwi. An
absolute trip highlight, this expedition
has been running for twenty years, and
would be well known to birders who
have seen Sir David Attenborough’s Life
of Birds series. He was filmed on the very
same beach we visit, and perhaps with
the very same kiwi! Leaving the dock at
9pm the trip started with a 45 minute
boat ride across Paterson Inlet. We were
joined briefly by a pod of Bottlenose
Dolphins which rode our bow wave, and
we also spotted several Little Penguins
coming into shore after a long day of
fishing. Arriving at our jetty, we received
a short introductory talk from our guides
Phil and Garry, then left the dock in the
twilight, crossing a narrow spit of land to
Ocean Beach. We listened carefully for
any kiwis foraging in the undergrowth on
the way, but didn’t find anything. On
arrival at the beach we walked the length, keeping an eye out for kiwis. The birds come out
of the brush at the back of the beach, and search for food along the high tide mark, where
there is plenty of seaweed washed up. This seaweed hides a multitude of invertebrates
which the kiwis like to feed on.
This sign greeted us after getting off the boat
on Stewart Island. A sign of things to come?
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After one lap of the beach we had still not found a kiwi, and we were starting to get
nervous. Phil had made the mistake of telling us that for the last two years they had not
failed to find a kiwi, so the pressure was on. On our second run along the beach we had
reached a small stream at the end with no luck and were about to turn around for another
lap, when our guide Garry spotted some movement. Hurriedly following him and gathering
around we were able to glimpse a Southern Brown Kiwi running along the back of the
beach and into a depression. We crept forward slowly, and were rewarded with good looks
at a female kiwi working her way along the beach before disappearing into the
undergrowth. With the monkey off our back we did one more lap of the beach but couldn’t
improve on our first sighting, with a quick glimpse of another kiwi leaving the beach, but
nothing else. As we decided to leave and head back to the boat a pair of kiwis serenaded us
with their eerie piping and roaring duet, an excellent end to the night.
New Zealand’s iconic bird, the kiwi – this is a Southern Brown Kiwi foraging on Ocean
Beach, Stewart Island.
Day 9 – Saturday, 8 January 2011
After a late night we took a little extra rest this morning before getting on our way to Ulva
Island. Our birding started as soon as we left the hotel, with both Variable and South Island
Oystercatchers feeding on the beach, while White-fronted Terns and Red-billed Gulls
foraged in the bay. We started our walk over to Golden Bay where we would catch the
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water taxi, and hadn’t gone far before we heard the strange gurgling and hooting whistles of
a New Zealand Kaka. We saw a bird fly over, but shortly after got our first good looks, as we
found one of these very charming parrots feeding on some flax. It didn’t hang around long,
but was soon replaced by a very loud Tui which gave great views, while we could hear the
nearby chattering of a Red-fronted Parakeet. We arrived at the jetty and boarded our water
taxi for the ten minute voyage to the Island. On the way we picked out a few Little Penguins
loafing on the surface, before pulling alongside and stepping onto the island.
Perhaps the most devastating
problem New Zealand’s birds
have had to face since the
arrival of man, has been the
introduction of land-based
predators where there
previously were none. Prior
to the arrival of Pacific Rats
and a variety of mustelids,
the only native land
mammals on New Zealand
were a few species of small
bat. As soon as these
voracious predators arrived
though, bird populations were
decimated with many species only surviving on remote islands that the predators could not
reach. This has resulted in conservation efforts focussing on similar small islands that are
intensively managed to eradicate mammal predators, allowing the reintroduction of native
birds which then thrive. Ulva Island is one such sanctuary, and is an incredible place to visit
and see New Zealand how it once was.
Within minutes of stepping
off the boat we had our first
new bird, an inquisitive
Weka. These flightless rails
are quite common on the
island, and over the next few
hours we would see several
of them, including families
with young birds. While
watching the Weka, the
distinctive chattering of Red-
fronted Parakeets caught our
attention, as a pair flew in
One of the first birds of the day, an endemic South Island
Oystercatcher.
This pair of gorgeous Red-fronted Parakeets were among
the first birds we saw on Ulva Island.
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and landed right above our heads. We were able to watch these shy birds for several
minutes as they rested in the canopy and preened each other. Moving into the forest we
soon had our first New Zealand Robin in attendance, following us along the track looking for
any insects we disturbed. They are so friendly it feels like an effort to stop from treading on
them! There were plenty more common birds around, with Tuis, Tomtits, New Zealand
Pigeons and Red-fronted Parakeets regular sightings.
The weird hooting and gurgling calls of the New Zealand Kaka are usually the first sign of
their presence. We were lucky to watch a pair of birds including this one foraging very
close to us on Ulva Island. They behaved almost like nuthatches, crawling up and down
trunks and branches, looking for grubs.
We arrived at a small bench and took the opportunity for a rest, when the chattering of a
parakeet again caught our attention. Looking closely though, we were able to see the yellow
forehead of a Yellow-fronted Parakeet, another of our target birds. This was closely
followed by the arrival of a pair of New Zealand Kakas, which entertained us for a good ten
minutes. They foraged among the trees like giant nuthatches, even allowing close approach
for some reasonable photographs. We reluctantly left the kakas behind, and continued
searching for our remaining quarry, the elusive Yellowhead. On a couple of occasions we
could hear their distinctive staccato call, but they remained too far away to chase down.
While taking another rest we heard a bird call closer, and start moving towards us.
Immediately jumping up and running down the trail, we craned our necks skyward, as we
saw the silhouette of the bird skip through the canopy. Finally it landed on an open branch
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in full sun, and we were treated to the spectacle of a brilliant Yellowhead, calling its heart
out.
Having nailed our last target, and with a late night behind us, we decided to take an early
mark and head back to the hotel for a restful afternoon. Waiting for out water taxi back at
the jetty we were able to get a few more photos of the Weka, before returning to Golden
Bay and walking over to our accommodation, the delightful South Sea Hotel.
The first bird to greet us on Ulva Island and the last to see us off was this Weka, a
flightless rail endemic to New Zealand.
Day 10 – Sunday, 9 January 2011
After a leisurely breakfast at the hotel while looking out over the glorious Halfmoon Bay, we
reluctantly packed up our gear and headed down to the wharf to catch the ferry back to the
mainland. It was a beautiful day with bright sunshine and barely a breath of wind, so
conditions on the water would be pleasant but less than ideal for birds. As we left the
harbour we got several Bronze (Stewart Island) Shags resting on a rock stack, but there was
barely a bird in sight outside the heads, with a distant White-capped Albatross loafing on
the surface while a few Sooty Shearwaters passed by slowly. As we moved out into the
straits we were able to pick up a few Common Diving-Petrels, and with the boat not rocking
all over the place, we got reasonable views. Otherwise, it was a quiet trip back to Bluff.
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After collecting the car and packing our gear, we worked our way slowly back to Invercargill
where we would be staying the night. We stopped at a few wetlands the area is well known
for along the way, but didn’t pick up any new birds. There were plenty of ducks around, and
we saw Paradise Shelduck, Australian Shoveler and Mallard, plus large numbers of Black
Swan. There were waders about as well, with plenty of Pied Stilts, South Island
Oystercatchers and a smattering of Bar-tailed Godwits. As lunch approached we made for
Invercargill and checked in to our accommodation. With no new birds on offer and a 5am
start in the morning, we decided to have a quiet afternoon catching up on admin and sleep
before commencing our final assault on the North Island tomorrow.
Day 11 – Monday, 10 January 2011
An early morning flight
out of Invercargill with a
stopover in Christchurch
had us arriving in
Auckland at around
lunchtime. We picked up
our new car, and with no
time to waste got on the
road north, heading for
our first stop at Muriwai.
The highlight at Muriwai is
the Australasian Gannets
that have formed a
nesting colony above the
steep cliffs on the
mainland, and which allow
close approach from a
couple of designated lookouts. It was another beautiful day and we spent over an hour just
enjoying the antics at the colony, where there were several chicks close to fledging, and
many adults soaring in the updrafts from the cliffs. Also around were White-fronted Terns
and Red-billed Gulls, both with small nesting colonies on the cliff as well, while several Kelp
Gulls hovered around looking for an easy feed. Several hundred photos later we dragged
ourselves away, leaving the colony behind to go for our next target bird.
A common bird right around the coast of New Zealand, we
saw many White-fronted Terns, including a small nesting
colony on the cliffs of Muriwai.
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A majestic adult Australasian Gannet soaring above the cliffs at Muriwai.
Moving out onto the south head of Kaipara Harbour, our next destination was Lake Kereta, a
lake which can hold a variety of waterbirds. On arriving we weren’t disappointed as we
picked up several cormorants including Little Pied, Pied, Little Black and Great. Cruising in
close to the reedbeds was a pair of Pacific Black (Grey) Ducks, and as we pulled in at the
end of the lake, a lone Caspian Tern passed overhead. We jumped out of the car and started
searching for our quarry. At first it looked like we may have been out of luck, until some
movement in the cover of the nearby reeds drew our attention. Soon, an adult New Zealand
Grebe popped up from its dive, and was soon followed by another adult, then two very
small chicks emerged from the reeds, only recently out of the nest. For fifteen minutes we
watched the adults constantly diving and returning with morsels of food for their young, and
as they worked closer to our vantage point we were able to get good views of these
delightful little birds.
By this time it was quite late, so leaving the grebes behind we got on our way back to
Auckland. There wasn’t much to excite us on the trip back except a few roadside Purple
Swamphens and more Swamp Harriers. Arriving in Auckland we had dinner before moving
off to bed, requiring a good night’s rest before our second pelagic tomorrow.
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Day 12 – Tuesday, 11 January 2011
Today was arguably the best day of the tour. Leaving Auckland we headed north for our first
stop at Tawharanui Regional Park, getting our list off to a good start with some common
birds like Purple Swamphen, Sacred Kingfisher and New Zealand Pigeon. Arriving at the
park we drove to the first small wetland and got out to scan the edges. On the near side was
a large group of Paradise Shelducks which were very close and allowed some good photos.
Continuing to scan the edge, we soon picked up the first pair of our target bird, Brown Teal.
These rare ducks have been subject to an intense conservation program and it was pleasing
to find them so easily. We watched this pair forage in the water very close to us, even
allowing some reasonable photographs. Continuing to scan the wetland revealed some
other good birds, with White-faced Herons feeding actively along the water’s edge, and a
pair of Caspian Terns loafing on a sandbank. We also found more Brown Teal, ending up
with about nine birds in total.
Leaving Tawharanui behind
we continued up the coast
to Leigh, the departure point
for our pelagic trip. This
pelagic trip would take us
out into the Hauraki Gulf,
which at this time of year is
a seabirding hotspot. The
gulf is surrounded by a
series of islands, islets and
rocky stacks which are a
mecca for breeding seabirds,
and at this time of year it is
possible to rack up an
impressive list. We met our
skipper and trip organiser Karen on the jetty, and were soon aboard our boat and leaving
the harbour, excited at the prospects of what we might see.
Our first bird was unfortunately a dead one floating down the side of the boat, which was
netted and identified as a Short-tailed Shearwater, an uncommon bird in these parts. It had
been caught on a fishing hook and some line. We hadn’t gone far from the harbour though
when we had our first live birds, as we started to scatter some resting groups of Fluttering
Shearwaters from the surface. This was followed by the first of several hundred Cook’s
Petrels we would see over the course of the day, as they sliced across the increasing swell.
Luckily there was enough wind to keep the birds moving around, but not enough to make
the boat trip too uncomfortable. At one point as a few of us were looking out the side of the
boat we had an incredible experience, as a Short-beaked Common Dolphin leapt clear of the
We found this pair of rare Brown Teal at Tawharanui
Regional Park, where an intensive management program is
helping the population recover.
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water within about three metres of the boat, only to disappear just as quickly. It was one of
those moments when you wish you could take a freeze frame of what your eyes had just
seen!
After about an hour we arrived at our first stop, where we started chumming and waited for
the birds to roll in. It didn’t take long, and within seconds the first of many White-faced
Storm-Petrels arrived at the back of the boat, dancing across the surface like little
ballerinas. Some Cook’s Petrels came in close for photos, while a small bluish bird was our
first Fairy Prion. We were quickly joined by a few Buller’s and Flesh-footed Shearwaters,
and after close passes we were able to bed down the ID of all these species. This was just in
time for the prize of the day, as the shout of ‘storm-petrel’ went out, with a large black-and-
white storm-petrel coming in swiftly to the slick. It hung around and we had great views of a
cracking New Zealand Storm-Petrel as it fed on the slick for a while. An enigma, this small
bird was known from only three specimens taken in the 19th
century, and had been thought
to be a colour morph of the more common Wilson’s Storm-Petrel. It was ‘rediscovered’ off
New Zealand in 2003 and can now be regularly seen during summer in the Hauraki Gulf.
Incredibly, their breeding location still remains unknown, although it seems likely to be one
of the many islands that surround the gulf.
One of the first birds to arrive at the back of the boat once we started chumming was the
delightful little White-faced Storm-Petrel.
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With the storm-petrel in the
bag, we decided to move a little
further out to try for our next
target, Parkinson’s (Black)
Petrel, which breeds on the
nearby Little Barrier Island. On
the way we saw a distant
Common Diving-Petrel, but
until we stopped to chum things
were quiet. We were soon
joined by the White-faced
Storm-Petrels again, and
another New Zealand Storm-
Petrel stopped by. It didn’t take
long before several large, dark
petrels approached the boat, and after carefully looking for the diagnostic features we
confirmed our first Parkinson’s Petrels. Luckily they were joined by a Flesh-footed
Shearwater which allowed us to directly compare these two difficult species. As the petrels
were sitting on the water they were surprised by a 1.5 metre Shortfin Mako Shark who was
attracted to our berley. Unlike the Blue Shark at Kaikoura which hadn’t bothered the birds
at all, this guy was a different story and we watched as each bird took its turn to jump out of
the way of this menacing predator.
Having now seen all the
species we had hoped for,
we decided to head for
home. We made a short
stop to watch a large
school of fish feeding on
the surface, accompanied
by Fluttering and Buller’s
Shearwaters, both storm-
petrels and several Fairy
Prions, but otherwise it
was a quiet trip back to
the harbour, after a very
successful pelagic.
Our final target for the day was Parkinson’s (Black)
Petrel. We found nearly a dozen birds, just off Little
Barrier Island.
This Shortfin Mako Shark came along to investigate the slick,
and the birds didn’t enjoy having him around.
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Cook’s Petrels (top) were common around the boat all day, slicing past on the stiff breeze.
We were also lucky to see our prize bird for the day, the recently rediscovered New
Zealand Storm-Petrel (bottom). If you look closely you can see the diagnostic streaking on
the white belly.
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But the day wasn’t over quite yet.
After getting off the boat we decided
to make a dash for nearby Pakiri
Beach, where a pair of the very rare
Fairy Tern had recently fledged some
young. On arrival we moved out onto
the beach, scanning for the terns, but
not finding them. We did get a good
consolation prize though, as we picked
up our first Red-breasted (New
Zealand) Dotterels, which also breed
here. We were able to approach some
of them quite closely, and got some
great photos of this endemic
shorebird. Leaving the beach behind
we moved out to the small river
behind the beach, where we were
lucky to spy an Australasian Bittern
from the car. We jumped out for
better looks, but were too slow as it
slid back into the fringing vegetation.
Wait as we might it wouldn’t come out
again, although we did get great views
of a Buff-banded Rail foraging on the
edge of the mangroves instead. On
that note we wrapped things up and
drove to Matakana where we
celebrated a fantastic day with a few
beers and a hearty pub dinner.
Day 13 – Wednesday, 12 January 2011
After yesterday’s big day there was no respite; we left early for the pier in downtown
Auckland where we would board our ferry to Tiritiri Matangi, another island sanctuary just
off the coast. Like Ulva Island, Tiritiri has been the subject of intense efforts to eradicate
mammalian predators, followed by the reintroduction of several bird species which now
thrive. A visit to Tiritiri is one of the great New Zealand birding experiences.
We left for the island around 9:30am, and the trip was relatively uneventful, except for two
new birds we added to the list; a Pacific Reef-Heron on the breakwater at Gulf Harbour, and
a pair of Parasitic Jaegers seen just before arriving at Tiritiri. After leaving the ferry we had
We found several endemic Red-breasted (New
Zealand) Dotterels on Pakiri Beach, including
several young birds.
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to wait a few minutes for a brief from
the ranger, before we moved off and
started to build our list. Within minutes
we had added Tui, which are very
common on the island, along with New
Zealand Bellbird, and a pair of
overflying Red-fronted Parakeets. As
we steadily climbed the trail we caught
our first of many groups of Whitehead,
another endemic, followed by a very
friendly Brown Quail which was
foraging on the edge of the trail. A
Sacred Kingfisher crossed the track and
perched giving us good views, followed
soon after by a very obliging New
Zealand Pigeon.
We soon had our attention drawn to a
loud two-note call from the
undergrowth, and as we looked in that
direction, saw two Saddlebacks
explode from the bushes, chasing each
other around. We watched in delight as
the birds bounced around us, although
they were too quick for photos, try as
we might. We had a rest stop in some
denser forest, hoping to hear or
perhaps see a Kokako, but were without luck. Continuing in to the forest we arrived at one
of the supplementary feeders set up on the island to help support the population of
Stitchbird which has been established on the island. We watched the New Zealand Bellbirds
using the feeder, but it took about five minutes before the first Stitchbird arrived, a cracking
male. We watched him use the feeder before being followed shortly after by another male
and a female. These absolutely gorgeous birds are very striking, much more dapper than the
field guide suggests. They are also very jumpy, and we spent quite a while just enjoying their
antics, but try as we might we only succeeded in getting some average photographs.
Leaving the Stitchbirds behind, we worked our way up to the lighthouse, where we arrived
in time for lunch. Unsurprisingly the first bird we saw was ‘Greg’ the Takahe, who has
unfortunately taken a shine to human food, and now pesters everyone for their sandwich,
even taking it right out of your hands if you’re not careful. Not all the Takahes are like Greg
though, and after finishing lunch we moved to the rank grasslands behind the lighthouse,
where we found a pair of Takahe foraging very normally, and looking after two fluffy black
We had seen plenty of New Zealand Pigeons
during the trip, but it wasn’t until Tiritiri Matangi
that we were able to get really good views.
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chicks at the same time. Nearby, the insect like call of a Fernbird had us peering into the
middle of some thick undergrowth, but unfortunately we couldn’t get anything better than
a silhouette of this cryptic bird.
Both Stitchbird (top) and Saddleback (bottom) are extinct on the mainland, but survive on
a few predator free islands off the coast, such as Titiriti Matangi.
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We started to move back to the
ferry at this point, coming across
another confrontation between two
Saddleback pairs. This time they
were so involved in scolding each
other that we were able to take
some good photos of these
attractive birds. Retracing our steps
we went back to the Stitchbird
feeders and admired these guys for
a little longer, also hoping we may
come across a Kokako, but
unfortunately the large numbers of
people around (it was summer
holidays) was keeping these shy
birds at bay. We arrived at the
wharf just as the ferry was pulling
in, and were soon on our way back
to Auckland.
The ferry trip was used as time to
rest our weary legs, before we
arrived in Auckland and had to
immediately hit the road south for
the drive to Miranda. We arrived
there right in time for dinner,
before checking in to our
accommodation. As we were
unloading the car, the distinctive
repetitive whistle of a Shining Bronze-Cuckoo caught our attention. We couldn’t see the
bird despite our best efforts, until it burst from the canopy and flew over, only to keep on
going and not be seen again. Very frustrating! With some sunlight still remaining we made a
brief trip to the mudflats where although the tide was low, many waders were still visible.
With the ‘scope we were able to pick out many waders, although there was nothing here
that we needed for life lists. Still, it was good to see more Wrybill, a few Pacific Golden
Plovers, Sharp-tailed Sandpipers, Red Knots and Black-billed Gulls.
As darkness fell, we left the estuary and headed inland for a few minutes to try for the
formerly endemic New Zealand owl, Morepork; formerly endemic because in the latest
Clements update it has been lumped with its Australian relative, the Southern Boobook.
After arriving at our site we could hear several birds calling straight away, but none seemed
to respond to our tape. Moving along the road, we kept trying until it seemed we were
With only a very small wild population remaining in
the mountains of Fiordland in south-western New
Zealand, Takahe have been reintroduced to several
sites including Tiritiri to ensure their survival.
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going to have to record a heard only, when suddenly one called from right beside the track.
Try as we might it wouldn’t reveal itself though, until an attempt at squeaking had the bird
exploding from the undergrowth to investigate. It perched, and in the spotlight we were
able to watch a Southern Boobook peering around and calling only metres above our heads;
a fantastic end to another spectacular day.
Day 14 – Thursday, 13 January 2011
Unfortunately our last day of the tour had arrived, and we were faced with a dilemma. We
had seen nearly all of the birds we were after, with only two endemic birds still within our
reach, the New Zealand Falcon and Kokako. So, instead of spending the day wader watching
and returning to Auckland, at a leisurely pace, we made the decision to go on a mad twitch
in the hope of possibly picking up one of these difficult birds. We left early and with
breakfast on the run, had arrived at Mapara Wildlife Reserve by mid-morning. Leaving the
car and moving into the forest, we didn’t regret our decision as we were soon surrounded
by birds. A flock of Whitehead moved over, and we also picked up a very inquisitive New
Zealand Fantail. We soon heard the first of many Long-tailed Koels, their buzzing call
echoing across the steep hillsides, although they refused to show themselves.
The found this very cute and charismatic New Zealand Fantail at Mapara Wildlife Reserve
on our last day of the tour.
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As we approached an open area a distinctive strident cry sounded from overhead, and as we
snapped our heads skywards we were rewarded with a New Zealand Falcon cruising slowly
by. Much fist pumping and shouting ensued, followed by another falcon which soared by at
a very leisurely pace, allowing us to soak up this magnificent endemic before it folded its
wings and dashed out of sight. Already the trip was worth it, but as we continued we saw
many more fantastic birds. A New Zealand Robin posed quietly in the understorey, while a
Tomtit came to investigate our squeaking. Unfortunately the Long-tailed Koels wouldn’t
reveal themselves, and the Kokako stayed silent and hidden. We had climbed quite a way by
this point, so decided to work our way back down slowly. We heard another falcon calling,
but couldn’t see it, then finally as we reached the bottom, we got brief views of an aptly
named Long-tailed Koel as it flew high overhead. We resigned ourselves to dipping on the
Kokako and started the long haul back to Auckland.
We made one last stop at the Whangamarino wetlands, where we were able to get nice
views of several waterfowl including Paradise Shelduck, Australasian Shoveler, Pacific Black
Duck and a mysterious all dark Little Pied Cormorant which confused us momentarily. Our
last new bird of the trip though was a surprise. A distant brown shape skulking in the reeds
looked like a fallen tree, until through the ‘scope it revealed itself as an Australasian Bittern.
Fortunately this one hung around for a few minutes and allowed us reasonable if distant
views before retreating to cover. By that stage it was getting late in the afternoon, and after
a big day and a big two weeks we had to draw the curtain on a magnificent trip, returning to
Auckland and saying our farewells.
The beautiful Paradise Shelduck is a common bird throughout New Zealand and we saw
them on most days. This bird is a female – the males have black heads.
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In summary, given the length of the tour and the time of year, we ended up with a very
respectable total of 125 species. While an extra few days would have allowed us to target
more endemics, the requirement for this custom tour to fit as much as possible into only
two weeks while still maintaining a relaxed pace, meant we had to prioritise and miss a few
birds. The only endemic we missed was Kokako, and this was again a function of our
schedule. With only a few extra days in the itinerary we would have probably added this,
plus a couple of extra kiwi species to the list. The time of year also meant that some birds
like Fiordland Penguin weren’t possible, while others were more difficult, such as the Long-
tailed Koel. Still, given these restraints we did well, and saw nearly all the endemics possible.
Onto the highlights, and for any New Zealand trip, kiwi has to top the list. The Southern
Brown Kiwi on Stewart Island is not only a cool bird, but the whole trip from the boat ride
across Paterson Inlet, to walking through the dark forest, and then the tantalising
excitement of stalking along the beach is a fantastic wildlife experience. Other highlights
included our day trip to Tiritiri Matangi, while individual birds that caught our imagination
were the tiny little South Island Wren, and the gorgeous Blue Duck. New Zealand must also
be the seabird capital of the world; nowhere else is such a wide range of seabirds so easily
accessible. This trip certainly lived up to expectations, with five species and seven taxa of
albatross recorded, fifteen species of petrels and shearwaters, two species of storm-petrel
and one diving-petrel.
So, in short, a wonderful trip and one I hope to guide again soon. This trip will be making our
catalogue for 2012, so if you want to come along, give the office a call. I would love to have
you along next time!
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BIRD LIST
This list includes all the bird species that were recorded on this tour. Taxonomy and
nomenclature closely follow Clements (2007). Parentheses denote an alternate name used
by some checklists.
Total: 125 species.
KIWIS: Apterygidae
1. Southern Brown Kiwi Apteryx australis
DUCKS, GEESE AND SWANS: Anatidae
2. Greylag (Feral) Goose Anser anser
3. Canada Goose Branta canadiensis
4. Cape Barren Goose Cereopsis novaehollandiae
5. Black Swan Cygnus atratus
6. Paradise Shelduck Tadorna variegata
7. Blue Duck Hymenolaimus malacorhyncos
8. Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
9. Pacific Black Duck Anas superciliosa
10. Australian Shoveler Anas rhynchotis
11. Grey Teal Anas gracilis
12. Brown Teal Anas chlorotis
13. New Zealand Scaup Aythya novaeseelandiae
PHEASANTS, GROUSE AND ALLIES: Phasianidae
14. Red Junglefowl (Feral Chicken) Gallus gallus
15. Ring-necked Pheasant Phasianus colchicus
16. California Quail Callipepla californica
17. Brown Quail Coturnix ypsilophorus
18. Wild Turkey Meleagris gallopavo
GREBES: Podicipedidae
19. New Zealand Grebe Poliocephalus rufopectus
20. Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus
PENGUINS: Spheniscidae
21. Yellow-eyed Penguin Megadyptes antipodes
22. Little Penguin Eudyptula minor
ALBATROSSES: Diomedeidae
23. Buller’s Albatross Thalassarche bulleri
24. White-capped Albatross Thalassarche cauta
25. Salvin’s Albatross Thalassarche salvini
26. Royal Albatross Diomedea epomophora
27. Wandering Albatross Diomedea exulans
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SHEARWATERS AND PETRELS: Procellariidae
28. Northern Giant-Petrel Macronectes halli
29. Cape Petrel Daption capense
30. Great-winged Petrel Pterodroma macroptera
31. Mottled Petrel Pterodroma inexpectata
32. Cook’s Petrel Pterodroma cookii
33. Fairy Prion Pachyptila turtur
34. White-chinned Petrel Procellaria aequinoctialis
35. Parkinson’s (Black) Petrel Procellaria parkinsoni
36. Westland Petrel Procellaria westlandica
37. Flesh-footed Shearwater Puffinus carneipes
38. Buller’s Shearwater Puffinus bulleri
39. Sooty Shearwater Puffinus griseus
40. Short-tailed Shearwater Puffinus tenuirostris
41. Hutton’s Shearwater Puffinus huttoni
42. Fluttering Shearwater Puffinus gavial
STORM-PETRELS: Hydrobatidae
43. New Zealand Storm-Petrel Oceanites maorianus
44. White-faced Storm-Petrel Pelagodroma marina
BOOBIES AND GANNETS: Sulidae
45. Australasian Gannet Morus serrator
CORMORANTS AND SHAGS: Phalacrocoracidae
46. Little Black Cormorant Phalacrocorax sulcirostris
47. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
48. Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax varius
49. Bronze (Stewart Island) Shag Phalacrocorax chalconotus
50. Spotted Shag Phalacrocorax punctatus
51. Little Pied Cormorant Phalacrocorax melanoleucos
HERONS, EGRETS AND BITTERNS: Ardeidae
52. Australasian Bittern Botaurus poiciloptilus
53. Great Egret Ardea alba
54. White-faced Heron Egretta novaehollandiae
55. Pacific Reef-Heron Egretta sacra
IBIS AND SPOONBILLS: Threskiornithidae
56. Royal Spoonbill Platalea regia
HAWKS, EAGLES AND KITES: Accipitridae
57. Swamp Harrier Circus approximans
FALCONS AND CARACARAS: Falconidae
58. New Zealand Falcon Falco novaeseelandiae
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RAILS, GALLINULES AND COOTS: Rallidae
59. Weka Gallirallus australis
60. Buff-banded Rail Gallirallus phillipensis
61. Purple Swamphen Porphyrio porphyrio
62. Takahe Porphyrio mantelli
63. Eurasian Coot Fulica atra
PLOVERS AND LAPWINGS: Charadriidae
64. Masked Lapwing Vanellus miles
65. Pacific Golden-Plover Pluvialis fulva
66. Red-breasted (New Zealand) Dotterel Elseyornis melanops
67. Double-banded (Banded) Plover Charadrius bicinctus
68. Wrybill Anarhyncus frontalis
OYSTERCATCHERS: Haematopodidae
69. South Island Oystercatcher Haematopus finschi
70. Variable Oystercatcher Haematopus unicolor
STILTS AND AVOCETS: Recurvirostridae
71. Pied Stilt Himantopus leucocephalus
72. Black Stilt Himantopus novaezelandiae
SANDPIPERS AND ALLIES: Scolopacidae
73. Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
74. Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
75. Red Knot Calidris canutus
76. Sharp-tailed Sandpiper Calidris acuminata
GULLS, TERNS AND SKIMMERS: Laridae
77. Black-billed Gull Chroicocephalus bulleri
78. Red-billed Gull Chroicocephalus scopulinus
79. Kelp (Southern Black-backed) Gull Larus dominicanus
80. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia
81. Black-fronted Tern Chlidonias albostriatus
82. White-fronted Tern Sterna striata
SKUAS AND JAEGERS: Stercorariidae
83. Parasitic Jaeger Stercorarius parasiticus
PIGEONS AND DOVES: Columbidae
84. Rock Pigeon Columba livia
85. Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis
86. New Zealand Pigeon Hemiphaga novaeseelandiae
NEW ZEALAND PARROTS: Strigopidae
87. Kea Nestor notabilis
88. New Zealand Kaka Nestor meridionalis
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PARROTS: Psittacidae
89. Red-fronted Parakeet Cyanoramphus novaezelandiae
90. Yellow-fronted Parakeet Cyanoramphus auriceps
91. Eastern Rosella Platycercus eximius
CUCKOOS: Cuculidae
92. Shining Bronze-Cuckoo Chrysococcyx lucidus
93. Long-tailed Koel Eudynamys taitensis
OWLS: Strigidae
94. Southern Boobook Ninox novaeseelandiae
KINGFISHERS: Alcedinidae
95. Sacred Kingfisher Todiramphus sanctus
NEW ZEALAND WRENS: Acanthisittidae
96. Rifleman Acanthisitta chloris
97. South Island (Rock) Wren Xenicus gilviventris
HONEYEATERS: Meliphagidae
98. New Zealand Bellbird Anthornis melanura
99. Tui Prosthemadera novaeseelandiae
THORNBILLS AND ALLIES: Acanthizidae
100. Grey Gerygone (Warbler) Gerygone igata
WATTLEBIRDS: Callaeidae
101. Saddleback Philesturnus carunculatus
STITCHBIRD: Notiomystidae
102. Stitchbird Notiomystis cincta
BELLMAGPIES AND ALLIES: Cracticidae
103. Australasian Magpie Gymnorhina tibicen
WHISTLERS AND ALLIES: Pachycephalidae
104. Whitehead Mohoua albicilla
105. Yellowhead Mohoua ochrocephala
106. Pipipi (Brown Creeper) Mohoua novaeseelandiae
FANTAILS: Rhipiduridae
107. New Zealand Fantail Rhipidura fuliginosa
AUSTRALASIAN ROBINS: Petroicidae
108. Tomtit Petroica macrocephala
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109. New Zealand Robin Petroica australis
LARKS: Alaudidae
110. Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis
SWALLOWS: Hirundinidae
111. Welcome Swallow Hirundo neoxena
GRASSBIRDS AND ALLIES: Megaluridae
112. Fernbird Megalurus punctatus
THRUSHES AND ALLIES: Turdidae
113. Eurasian Blackbird Turdus merula
114. Song Thrush Turdus philomelos
BABBLERS:Timaliidae
115. Silver-eye Zosterops lateralis
STARLINGS: Sturnidae
116. Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
117. European Starling Sturnus vulgaris
ACCENTORS: Prunellidae
118. Dunnock Prunella modularis
WAGTAILS AND PIPITS: Motacillidae
119. Australasian Pipit Anthus novaeseelandiae
BUNTINGS, SPARROWS AND ALLIES: Emberizidae
120. Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella
SISKINS, CROSSBILLS AND ALLIES: Fringillidae
121. Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs
122. European Greenfinch Chloris chloris
123. Common Redpoll Acanthis flammea
124. European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis
OLD WORLD SPARROWS: Passeridae
125. House Sparrow Passer domesticus
MAMMAL LIST
European Hedgehog Erinaceus europaeus
Stoat (Ermine) Mustela ermine
Common Brushtail Possum Trichosurus vulpecula
European Hare Lepus europaeus
European Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus
New Zealand Fur-Seal Arctocephalus forsteri
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Short-beaked Common Dolphin Delphinus delphis
Dusky Dolphin Lagenorhyncus obscurus
Bottlenose Dolphin Tursiops truncatus
OTHERS
Blue Shark Prionace glauca
Shortfin Mako Shark Isurus oxirhynchus