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Thursday august 27, 2015V i Va . c o . n z

It received the most enthusiastic cheer of NZ Fashion Week so far. Emerging brand Harman Grubisa (pictured) showed a promising and polished collection last night

that was an “ode to the women who hold their own”.

It furthered the day’s theme of talented young female designers to watch, with Lucilla Gray holding a morning

installation presentation of her latest collection, followed by group shows from ITZME and Julian Danger, and lingerie brand Her Apparel and sleepwear brand Willa and Mae.

Later still, the fashion crowd continued the celebratory mood at Stolen Girlfriends Club’s show and 10 year party at the St James Theatre.Photography / Guy Coombes

The Sound of ZambeSiMemories with former fashion editor Stacy GreggThe first song of a runway show is so crucial I cannot describe its value. It is the mood-setter — and it defines all else that will follow. If the runway music is lame or predictable or try-hard in any way it taints everything. It is the fear of this that drives many designers to go for the “safety option” — choosing well-worn songs that they have been assured by their crew are “cool”.

Zambesi have never needed to worry about being cool and they have never been safe. Their innate confidence in their own mojo has led them to make astonishing musical choices over the years at NZFW. My favourite moment would be watching the models come out in beautiful, ephemeral stone-grey georgette gowns to the lilting voice of Dolly Parton doing a heartbreaking rendition of Led Zepplin’s Stairway to Heaven.

It’s not like the mood was always wistful though at a Zambesi show. At times their song choices were powerful, dramatic and even comedic. The theme from Jaws being blasted through a cavernous boatyard had everyone startled, bug-eyed and on the edge of their seats when it was used to open the runway show in 2006. Their most music-dependent show though, would be their rock ‘n’ roll performance at the St James Theatre, with its PJ Harvey-esque undertones, and models stalking the stage looking very soigné-grunge while Pluto performed in the background. I went home that night desperate to buy the very Courtney Love full-length pink satin gown and with half a mind to dust off my Fender Stratocaster. The guitar band never happened (who was I kidding?) but that dress is genius and it is still in my wardrobe.zambesi will close NzFW tonight.

Today’s HigHligHTs12pm Miromoda showcase

5pm Project Runway winner sean Kelly

6pm hailwood

8pm Ruby

9pm Zambesi

By Anna LeeIf you were up until the wee hours at stolen Girlfriends club's 10th birthday bash at the st James theatre last night, here are five simple steps to hide your hangover:

1wear large, dark sunglasses. If no one can see your colossal eye bags, are they really

even there?

2Grab the coconut water from your goodie bag as soon as you get to your seat. no

one suspects the health conscious.

3Download a fresh set of filters for the gram. #instagood #instalike

4wear a big hat — perfect to hide under, and so fashion!

5Distract the person sitting next to you with tales of your crazy night. Ideally they’ll

think you’re too cool to suffer anything so dull as a hangover.

How to hide your hangover

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Daily n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Thursday August 27, 2015I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

LuciLLa Gray iTZME WiLLa & MaE HarMan Grubisa

See more LooKS from the ShowS at ViVa.co.nz/faShionweeK

R U N WAY h i g h l i g h t s

the MANY FAces oF… Model eMMA BoYdPhotography by James K. Lowe

Read Katherine Lowe’s interviews with the top models of the week at Viva.co.nz/FashionWeek

Nina Rejthar, 10 year-old.“This man reminds me of a duvet. If you are half naked under it, you’re supposed to be hot, aren’t you? And if you have a big cloak over top that means you’re going to get hotter. He looks like he’s just been to the hairdressers. I have never seen a man with so much gel on his head. His waist-high shorts are school shorts. I’m pretty sure he’s fake smiling and thinking to himself, what am I doing? It reminds me of going to bed. I dread going to bed.”

David Skipwith, New Zealand Herald rugby league reporter“This would work great for a fashion-conscious frostbite patient at a hospital in Antarctica. I love duvets, but hate puffer jackets and hospitals, and this sterile and presumably unfinished piece channels the worst elements of all three. It looks like it could have used a bit of a shake-up before hitting the catwalk too BTW, as the warm filling has shifted off the shoulders to hang like dead weight at the bottom. No thanks, I’d rather freeze to death.”

“real People” review the showsOur volunteers away from Fashion Week are back! This time they weigh-in on a look from NZFW first-timer Lucilla Gray. This was one of her more daring looks from a strong collection presented off-site yesterday morning

By beauty editor Janetta MackayFew trends divide people quite so much as nail art. Love it or loathe it, it’s hard to ignore that this is the latest frontier of beauty artistry. Finger painting is being given ever-increasing attention backstage and looks are scrutinised afterwards, helping spark nail bar crazes.

Along with celebrities such as Rihanna, fashion shows lead the way in influencing crazes for the likes of pointy nails, the negative space manicure and coloured French tips. The original French manicure was created as an elegant foil for fashion. My how things have moved on with graphic looks, feature nails, op-art explosions and glitter tips all amping up the special effects.

“Keep a look out for street style pics as many of the guests will have incredible nails,” says Pop Nails artist Imogen Bevan who will be crafting looks for several Fashion Week shows. Designers are increasingly adding nails to hair and makeup in their pre-show beauty briefs.

O.P.I. expert Cheryl Cooke is working on ombre ends this season, while Bevan says other trending effects are watercolouring and chromatic decals. Almond shaped nails are still about and coffin shapes are another look if you have the length. Polish-wise, heading into spring-summer, look out for translucent colour, nude and neons and chromes and raspberries.

The CLAWS ARe OUT

Jade Ingram, early childhood teacher“Not quite sure where to start? Perhaps he has just got out of bed, bringing the duvet with him, or it’s a new form of hospital gown being tested on patients. On the positive side, multipurpose is the word I should be using. Where and whoever would wear this out in public, I do not know.”

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Daily n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Thursday August 27, 2015I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

ogxhairnzAvailable from selected pharmacies and department stores naaonwide or call 0508 734 466 for stockists. |

What have been the biggest moments for you personally, and for the brand?Starting my T-shirt brand at the very start, stocking Kirsty Gregg’s stores; working in Sweden for Absolute label was a great project working with other peers from around the world including Bora Aksu and Henrik Vibskov. Gorgeous Ella [Lorde] wearing my sequin gown on the cover of Billboard was such a thrill — she really is a superstar with brains and all round gorgeousness. There are many, but the

Happy Birthday Hailwood!

best was a young woman coming up to me saying that she had chosen to wear a dress of mine for her 21st and how special it was as her mother had chosen it with her; she lost her mum six months after her birthday. That has always stayed with me. How has the brand changed — and what has stayed the same?Well we really were just a T-shirt brand for the first year — it was all about the prints, then I moved on to denim skirts with big animal prints. I think I made 800 flamingo white denim skirts — hideous, ha ha! We still do a lot of placement print on tees and knitwear but have diversified into full ranges of ready to wear, evening, denim and shoe lines. I still love the illustration side of print and still do all the print designs for all the ranges, like in the beginning. How have you seen the industry change over those 15 years?The business of fashion has always been the same ... you get back what you put in and yes it’s tough but hard work pays off. I’ve had some lucky breaks and support over my career; it’s what you make out of it; nothing gets handed to you. I feel the business of fashion is a changed beast from when I first started: markets have shifted with price pointing, manufacturing, competition is stiff. You have to juggle these components all together. It’s more the business of fashion than designing pretty frocks, where it was the opposite when I started. You have to evolve. What are your memories of your first time showing at NZFW?Pure excitement — it was a group show at the Auckland Town Hall. It was the show with the green swallow print wrap

Danielle tries it onFashion student and Viva intern Danielle Clausen showcases the work of young designers to watch

@jarradgodman

The beauty of Jarrad Godman’s garments is their potential to morph; clever pattern cutting, ties and straps mean his pieces can be anything from gothic to Grecian.

Graduating from AUT just last year, Jarrad has hit the ground running. His spring collection is a humorous exploration of an identity crisis faced after graduating from university, a sense of sarcasm runs rife. The screaming pink and double entendre T-shirt slogans exemplify this tone. Pink and dresses are two things that I normally shy away from, but the subversive nature of Jarrad’s designs makes me feel like I can get away with them.

dress; people still remember that piece. Writer Stacy Gregg still has hers; it’s been around the world 10 times. I hope she’ll wear it to one of her Pony Club Secrets movie premieres one day! You’ve been known for your show-stopping gowns at NZFW. What is it about them that continues to inspire you?I like doing eveningwear, not going to lie. I enjoy making garments that aren’t just about the business side, which, don’t get me wrong, that’s the most important thing — it has to make money and be a viable business — but I feel shows need a little bit extra. Half the garments you see on a lot of the runways overseas are never put into production. It’s a fine balance; you don’t want to do too much as it detracts, you just need a few wow pieces to make it a little less ordinary. That Nicky Watson blue gown was a Fashion Week moment. What happened to the dress?That dress was originally made several years before, for my second individual show at Fashion Week. It was made by a very clever Chilean lady, Elizabeth Ramos Ghirelli, all by hand crochet. The dress is in the archive. What can you tell us about the collection you’ll show at NZFW tonight?It’s an homage to my manufacturing base, Hong Kong, so lots of lucky Lion and dragon motifs and the chrysanthemum, China’s national flower, featuring in embroidery print and sequin patterns. I have added a few more evening pieces to the end part of the show, and looked at Chinese sculpture which is featured in silk Shantung trousers and dresses. The range is called Lion Heart.

Interview by Rosie Kelway

He’s the Kiwi who won over Project Runway stars Heidi Klum and Tim Gunn to take out season 13 of the popular show. Heidi still raves about the dress Sean

Kelly memorably created, with dye built into the seams so that it turned from white to multi-coloured when “rain” fell from the ceiling.

“He is a great designer — a beautiful human being,” she told Viva earlier this year.

“He’s very technically gifted, and had some great ideas. I mean, he had some of the best designs I feel like I’ve seen over the last 12 years of doing Project Runway. His ‘Rain Walk’ dress was incredible. When a designer comes up with something that is new, when a model walks down, it gives me goosebumps, my hair stands up and I’m like, wow!”

Tonight, all eyes will be on Sean once again, to see what he brings to the runway at New Zealand Fashion Week. He admits to feeling the pressure, not just here but from overseas, too. “There’s a lot of spotlight on me internationally as well, the whole production of the show — everyone wants to know what I am doing next.”

Luckily, he says, he lives for high-pressure situations — it’s at these times that he produces his best work.

What to expect tonight? It will be a 25-piece collection, the biggest he has

ever put together. The show will run in two halves. The first will see a more commercial collection Sean plans to sell online before hopefully picking up stockists overseas, while the second half will be made up of standout show pieces.

“With intricate detailing and one off-pieces, one garment has taken four weeks to make, it’s all hand embroidered. So there’s quite a dynamic mix you are going to see in the collection.”

The 25-year-old says the more elaborate garments will be made for private orders. He envisages the Sean Kelly brand sitting in what he describes as a new pocket

of retail. “I like to call it mid-luxury, not luxury, because luxury is meant to be exclusive and limited to only a few. But since the recession, a pocket of the industry has emerged, with brands such as Phillip Lim and Acne creating really high quality material, at prices that are attainable. Not everyone can afford it but there’s a higher percentage of people that can.”

His debut collection, which he has been working on for three months, is based around the artist’s muse, and tells a story that will get more extravagant as the runway show goes on.

“Often it is a servant or a mistress that

becomes iconic and adored through a painting — a common person who was accidently turned into an idol, like the Girl With a Pearl Earring or Mona Lisa. These people often become icons.”

There will also be an installation with reflective mirror artwork set up on the runway created by Auckland-based spatial artist Angus Muir, much like the newly opened Len Lye Centre in Sean’s hometown of New Plymouth.

Overseas, Sean has worked for Danish designer Henrik Vibskov, whose fashion shows are based around massive installations, which Sean says is often his favourite part of a presentation. “I am interested in spatial design as well as fine art and sculpture, It’s not just the clothes that I am interested in, it’s the story, the feel, the atmosphere, the music that also helps to complement the clothes.”

The team behind tonight’s show is what Sean describes as a “dream team”, with Matt Benns from Stephen Marr heading up hair and Kiekie Stanners from M.A.C directing the makeup. Over the weekend he shot his lookbook with photographer James K. Lowe.

After he presents the collection tonight, Sean will be jetting off to New York, where he is planning a casual off-schedule presentation during New York Fashion Week. Following that he will hold a showcase at Dallas Fashion Week, before returning to live in New York — and watch the finale of Project Runway season 14.

sean Kelly’s next ProjectThe Project Runway winner will debut his first collection tonight

Designer Adrian Hailwood celebrates 15 years, with a glamorous show at NZFW tonight

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ogxhairnzAvailable from selected pharmacies and department stores naaonwide or call 0508 734 466 for stockists. |

Daily n e w z e a l a n d f a s h i o n w e e k / Thursday August 27, 2015I n A s s o c I At I o n w I t h

The New York-based writer and founder of jewellery line Olivia Kane — mood rings for grown-ups — is back home for Fashion Week

What are you doing at NZFW? I’m covering the shows for Vogue.com — and secretly coming home to say happy birthday to my grandmother whose birthday is also this week.Tell us about your first NZFW? I was an assistant at Fashion Quarterly, when RunwayReporter.com was still around. My ex-boyfriend was actually modelling in the shows, so it was a lot of fun.Three designers you’re loving right now? Harriet Were (aka Harry’s Handknits), Joseph Altuzarra, and LA-based basics brand Trois.What did you have for breakfast? Black iced coffee, plus home-made granola with raspberries and almond milk.Five items you couldn’t live without? My phone, Re/Done jeans, a white T-shirt, Aesop body balm, and my Gigi Burris sunhat. (It’s summer in New York).

@rosiekelway

The NZFW EDIT

ROSIE KELWAY, VIVA WRITER

StockiStS: Apple apple.com/nz, kate Sylvester (09) 307 3282, Lonely Hearts (09) 376 1566, Louis Vuitton louisvuitton.com, M.A.c (09) 358 4200, Net-A-Porter.com, Runway Shoes (09) 522 0808, Sunglass Hut (09) 379 0730.

M.A.C x Giambattista Valli lipstick in Bianca B $44.

Louis Vuitton clutch $7750.

Ray-Ban sunglasses, $545, from Sunglass Hut.

Acne biker jacket, about $4637, from Net-A-Porter.com

Apple Macbook $2399.

I’m not sure if it’s the 70s trip down memory lane that has taken over the fashion world, but I’m

finding myself drawn to suede or anything with a camel, caramel, nude or golden hue — laptops

included. I’ve even found myself seeking out denim flares. When it comes to Fashion Week,

yes, being practical is probably the right answer, but I much prefer to put my showiest foot forward

and dress up. Hence the floor-length Georgia Alice dress and sparkly Mi Piaci heels I’m wearing

here. My regular wardrobe consists of a lot of denim, preferably worn-in Levi’s with a leather

jacket and a bright lipstick. When I’m not wearing denim and having withdrawals, this denim-esque Louis Vuitton Petit Malle Epi clutch seems like the perfect companion to any outfit. And Beyonce has these wooden Ray-Ban Clubmasters sunglasses

so, of course, I want them too.

Kate Sylvester leatherette skirt $445,

with tie belt $145.

Lonely Hearts rib knit crop top $115.

Kenzo sandals, $560, from Runway Shoes.

Flamenco StyleCombine flowers, frills, flounces and lace with ruffles and it’s not hard to envisage

some sort of 80s prom dress horror — but not when Erdem Moralioglu is on the job. The London-based designer references the trend for oversized ruffles for Resort 2016,

tastefully balancing proportions.

Illustrating the Trends by Sean Cai

Focus On: Olivia Fleming

What websites do you frequent? The New York Times, Vogue.com, Elle.com, Women’s Wear Daily, and Aftertastes — my best friend’s literary food website, which everyone should read.What does your typical day look like? Early to rise, and early to bed. I live close to Brooklyn’s best outdoor swimming pool, so I do laps first thing in the morning, write until lunchtime — usually at home or a cafe — and then spend the afternoon working on my newly-launched line of mood rings, Olivia Kane. Dinner is always eaten out with friends; or my boyfriend and I will grab takeout and head to the park. Sadly, New York has ruined my ability (or need) to cook.What’s your handbag – and what’s in it? I’m carrying my Mansur Gavriel mini bucket bag. There is Kora lip balm, face mist and hand cream in there always; plus red lipstick, sunglasses, my phone, a notepad, pen, and a portable phone charger. Also an overstuffed Comme des Garcons wallet, thousands of receipts, and there’s probably some sand in there at the moment, too.What’s your beauty routine? Thanks to the advice of Peach and Lily’s Alicia Yoon, I have started using Korean beauty products. Morning and night I cleanse with a Cremorlab Gel followed by Aromatica Sea Daffodil Mousse. For day I use a Cremorlab serum, and for night I’m addicted to the Mizon Snail Repair Cream, and the Cremorlab eye cream. I don’t really wear makeup other than mascara, if I have a meeting, or red lipstick at night — so it’s pretty quick.If you could spend 10 minutes in a room with anyone, who would that be? Probably Hillary Clinton, there are so many things I’d love to ask her.

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WIN!Stolen Girlfriends Club and Samsung have teamed up with three fashion photographers – James K. Lowe, Harriet Were and Loic Quedec – to capture the best moments of the brand’s 10th birthday celebrations at New Zealand Fashion Week. The photographers have each used the new Samsung GS6 to document all the behind-the-scenes action at Stolen Girlfriends Club and shared their exclusive images on their personal Instagram accounts.

You, too, can get your hands on an amazing new Samsung GS6 — plus your favourite Stolen Girlfriends Club outfit from the catwalk. All you have to do is follow @samsungnz on Instagram and re-gram your favourite image using the hashtag #stolenlovessamsung to go in the draw. Easy!

Usually when designers present new collections at Fashion Week, consumers must wait at least six months before they can actually buy them. At Ruby’s off-site show this evening, however, shoppers will be able to buy the range straight off the runway, in a NZFW first.

The new collection will be available for purchase directly after Ruby’s show in the form of a one night only, pop-up store within the show venue. The 15-piece collection will also be available online tonight and in Ruby stores tomorrow.

Ruby designer Deanna Didovich says she and her team were looking for a way to push the retail side of their business. “The whole retail environment has changed so dramatically and we are such a retail focused brand, it made complete sense that we would have an in-season show.”

The range takes inspiration from dance, specifically an Erwin Blumenfeld photo of Russian-born ballerina, Alexandra Danilova. • Ruby top, $189, skirt, $269, belt, $85, and earrings $129. Available online tonight, and at ShopViva.co.nz and Ruby stores tomorrow morning. Ph (09) 522 6658.

Managing editor Amanda Linnell. Associate editor Zoe Walker. Fashion editor Dan Ahwa. Beauty editor Janetta Mackay. Writers Rosie kelway, Jessica Beresford, Rebecca Barry Hill. Photographer Guy coombes. Designers Sue Pat, Beth Walsh, Lucy casley. Sub editor Fiona Ralph. Editorial assistant Anna Lee. Intern Danielle clausen.

Contributors Sean cai, Jessica Grubisa, Stacy Gregg, katherine Lowe, James Lowe, Dan Roberts, David Skipwith, Jade ingram, Nina Rejthar. Advertising Michelle Fowler.Contact us viva@nzherald.co.nz

Daily

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“There’s something disgustingly satisfying about chowing into a plate of the Montreal poutine at the Federal Delicatessen, especially if it’s after 11pm. I’m yet to try the Buffalo Wings, also on the late shift menu, but I’m sure they wouldn’t disappoint either.” — Jessica Beresford, digital content producer

“I’m not afraid to admit that I love McDonald’s. It is a guilty pleasure, and a squishy Filet-O-Fish burger or Cheeseburger tastes particularly good after a few drinks. Failing that, a ham and cheese toasted sandwich from The White Lady is a dreamy way to end the night.” — Dan Ahwa, fashion editor

“I like to pretend I keep going back to Fatima’s because the fish kebabs or falafels are a vaguely healthy takeaway choice, but it’s probably the potato koftas I crave late at night.” — Janetta Mackay, beauty editor

“My obsession with Giapo is so great that I’ve learned all the quick exits from The Civic theatre in order to beat the queues. Nick Cave was a glorious night, the icing on the cake being a siamu popo (Samoan caramel) icecream for the road. And I ate my own body weight in the Raglan Coconut and Napier quince flavour during

LaTE NIgHT FEaSTSThe Viva team reveal their favourite places to eat after hours

The puT on my shades cause my fuTure’s so brighT selfie

My favourite sunglasses! They were my first Acne Studios purchase and I struggle to let them leave my face. I’m wearing them with a Harman

Grubisa space mesh jacket and white shirt.

Co-designer for Harman Grubisa, Jessica Grubisa also has a formidable sense of style. Each day this week, she’ll share her

favourite accessory selfies.

Selfies with Jess

the recent film festival. Late at night is the only time to go; I could never handle the hordes during daylight hours.” — Rebecca Wadey, wellbeing editor

“One of the best hidden spots in central Auckland is Tanuki’s Cave, a yakitori and kushiage bar. Yes, it is really tricky to get a table, but all good things take time, right? Order cold or warm sake and a bowl of cabbage with Japanese mayo to get you started. This place has a great atmosphere, delicious food and is good for a group or just two people. You won’t regret a trip here.” — Rosie Kelway, writer

“After a show, launch or boozy night out there’s no better place to be than the booths at the Late Night Diner. Open till 2am and conveniently located on Ponsonby Rd, the deep-fried gherkins, burgers, and hard shakes (milkshakes laced with alcohol) will keep your belly happy until the wee hours.” — Anna Lee, editorial assistant

“For a late night feast I can always count on Jack Tarr to have the best choices to feed my appetite — I welcome the pizza and fries, not to mention the waterfront scenery and the inner-city location.” — Lucy Casley, design and digital assistant

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