1SECTION COMMUNITY 1SECTION COMMUNITY

Exploring

the Land

the Art &

the People

Your Tour Guide to the Land of Enchantment and Surrounding Areas

2014

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OUR COVERThree vessels from the NAN RanchCollection show the temporal depth andbeauty of the collection. Pictured are aMimbres Fully Corrugated jar, a MiddleStyle III Classic Mimbres Black-on-whitegeometric bowl, and an Alma Neck Bandedjar. Photograph Courtesy of Western New MexicoUniversity Museum, The NAN Ranch Collection,Photo by Anthony Howell ©2013 WNMU Museum.

2014

DEPARTMENTS16 Exclusively NM 59 Dining, Spa, B&B Guide65 NM Museums 80 Index of AdvertisersS16 Exclusively Silver City

Contents

TO ORDER PERSONALCOPIES OF NEW MEXICOTRAVELER: Soft Bound$12.95. Outside the USA:Please call for rates. BackIssues available. Call or emailarlyn@ziapublishing.com1-575-388-4444 x10.

New Mexico

TRAVELER 2014

FEATURES6 Welcome to New Mexico

The confluence of diverse cultures,history, scenery, food, shoppingand the arts beckons visitors to anenchanting experience and invig-orating state of mind. Explore it,live it - you’ll love it!

8 NAN Ranch Collection10 The Silver City Area27 Gallup: Epicenter for Native

American work worldwide.32 Gallup: Most Patriotic Small Town36 Zuni MainStreet74 Southern New Mexico

Parks & Monuments S10 Shopping, Dining, Galleries

& MuseumsS19 Warriors, Outlaws & Lawmen

COMMUNITIES26 Gallup34 Pueblo of Zuni40 Ojo Caliente42 Taos48 Santa Fe66 Albuquerque76 Alamogordo77 Ruidoso78 Roswell79 Las CrucesS4 SocorroS6 Elephant ButteS8 DemingS9 LordsburgS12 Silver CityS20 Reserve, GlenwoodS21 Pinos Altos, Mimbres ValleyS22 El Paso, Texas

TOURS12 Museums

Art, ancient artifacts, geodes, spacecapsules and rattlesnakes are but a sam-pling of subject matter exhibited in NewMexico museums.

20 Indian Country Colorful old west movie landscapes andthousand-year-old dwellings are thebackdrops for outstanding shopping.

22 Trading PostsThe original grocery and social centersfor Native Americans have evolved intocenters for marketing their hand-madearts and crafts.

38 Northern MountainsThe arts and natural beauty of northernNew Mexico attract international atten-tion, along with a cultural diversity sec-ond to none.

44 Historic Hotels, Lodges & InnsHistoric lodging and home compoundsoriginally built for Spanish colonials andearly settlers now accommodate mod-ern travelers.

50 ChocolateThat wonderful New World discoverythat became a global treat has a distinc-tive New Mexico twist.

56 Buon Appetito!Yes, Italians also migrated to NewMexico and thankfully brought theirwonderful cuisine.

60 Green Chile CheeseburgersIn New Mexico, of course it makessense to include its world-famous greenchile on cheeseburgers.

68 Historic RestaurantsFlavors indigenous to the region, oldfamily recipes and historic surroundingscombine to provide unique diningexperiences.

New Mexico Traveler is published annually by Zia Publishing Corp. P.O. Box 1248, Silver City, NM, 116 McKinney Road, 88062, 575-388-4444, info@ziapublishing.com, www.ziapublishing.com, www.travelernm.com. President & Managing Director: Terri Menges.Vice President: Joseph Burgess. Staff Accountant: Arlyn Cooley. Designers: Debra Sutton and Terri Menges. Contributing Writers:Joseph Burgess, Benjamin Fisher, Tom Kennedy. Kate McGraw, Elizabeth Stewart, Abe Villarreal. Photography: Joseph Burgess, exceptwhere noted. Contributing Photographers: Mike Brislin, Ryan Brown, Mark Erickson, Anthony Howell, Lynn Janes, Tom Kennedy, BrianLeddy, LeAnne Knudsen, Light Language Studio, Debra Sutton. Courtesy Photos:Marissa Bracke, Chris Corrie, John Fowler, C.G. “Colin”Grey, Madeline Holland, Douglas Merriam, Ricardo Ricote Rodriguez, Sheila Sund, Ojo Caliente Resort & Spa, Osteria d’Assisi, PastelStudios, The Compound Restaurant, The Plaza Cafe, Kimberly Vardeman, Betsy Werber, Western New Mexico University Museum, TheNAN Ranch Collection. Advertising Sales: LeAnne Knudsen, Sheri Mann. Special Thanks: Judith Leyba for her invaluable contributionto the 2014 issue. POSTMASTER: Send change of address to: New Mexico Traveler, P.O. Box 1248, Silver City, NM 88062.New Mexico Traveler is manufactured and printed in the United States of America. ©Zia Publishing Corp. 2014. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole orpart without permission of the publisher is prohibited. All submissions of editorial or photography are only accepted without risk to the publisher for loss or dam-age. Every effort was made to ensure accuracy in the information provided. The publisher assumes no responsibility or liability for errors, changes or omissions.

We are celebrating over 20 years! Coyote Cafe continues to be Santa Fe’s most famous and celebrated restaurant, feted by critics and return visitors alike.

Joining Coyote Cafe is world renowned chef Eric Distefano. Chef Distefano brings with him his contemporary global style of cooking that has French and Asian influences accompanied with Coyote Cafe’s known southwestern style.

An award winning wine list is complimented by a full bar offering unique signature cocktails.

7 Nights a Week 5:30 - Clo se

For Reservations Please Call (505)983-1615 or Book Online at OpenTable.com132 West Water Street • Santa Fe, NM 87501

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com66

NEWMEXICO

WELCOME TO

A treasure trove of art, historyand cultural diversity

this page: Artist’s sunlight,blue skies and gorgeoussunsets are among NewMexico’s calling cards – but itis only the beginning of along and exciting list.ph

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Incomparable arts evolving from a broad spectrum of cultures, space-age technology establishingmindsets for the future and incredible scenic beauty are just a hint of what awaits in America’sLand of Enchantment. The dwellings and artwork of prehistoric peoples combined with brilliantsunlight and stunning blue skies contribute to the aura that continues to beckon talented andinnovative newcomers and visitors to a region named Nuevo México by Spanish explorers.From vast pristine wilderness regions to the crystalline dunes of White Sands, forever vistas

keep visitors reaching for their cameras and easels. Heartbeats hasten to the rhythm of Pueblodrums, while the Very Large Array of radio telescopes listens quietly for signs of life in distantgalaxies. A curious lizard scrambles across an ancient ruin and a trophy elk cautiously crosses ahigh mountain trout stream. Locals never tire of driving the web of New Mexico’s scenic bywaysand spending days shopping the world’s best markets for art, jewelry and Native American crafts.Museums and monuments throughout the state highlight the tools of mammoth hunters, the

intriguing artwork of prehistoric potters and the development of pueblo and nomadic tribes thatwere first confronted by Europeans in the early s.The continued influence of Native American,Spanish, Mexican, and pioneer American cultures fuels vibrant fiestas, markets and solemn pro-cessions held throughout the year. Experience the state’s challenging ski slopes and white waterrapids and visit its forts, missions and wildlife sanctuaries. Accept this invitation to explore themost diverse state in the nation. ¡Bien venidos a Nuevo México!

“The NAN Ranch donation is a world-class collection ofMimbres artifacts and materials, which establishes theWestern New Mexico University Museum as one of themajor centers for research and exhibition of this prehistoricculture,” said Dr. Joseph Shepard, WNMU President.The prehistoric Mimbres people inhabited the valleys,

hills and mountains of Southwest New Mexico from A.D.200 to A.D. 1140. They are known for their strikingly beau-tiful decorated painted pottery featuring elaborate geo-

metric designs and stylized naturalistic designs of fish,animals, insects and people.

The late Margaret Ross Hinton, who donatedthe collection to WNMU, recognized the impor-tance of the prehistoric sites on the NAN Ranchand went to great lengths to preserve them. In

WRITTEN BY ABE VILLARREAL PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANTHONY HOWELL

NAN Ranch CollectionReawakening an Ancient Culture

at Museum

opposite: This multi-vessel photograph of the NAN Ranch Collection showsthe diversity and breadth of the collection. The collection contains rich brown-wares bowls and jars, intricate black-on-white geometric designs painted onbowls and water jars, realistic images of hummingbirds and fish, compoundanimal images suggesting intermarriage of clans like the polychrome diamondbacked rattlesnake necked turkey, and several human-bird effigies. PhotographCourtesy of Western New Mexico University Museum, The NAN Ranch Collection. top left:Current WNMU Museum Director Dr. Cynthia Ann Bettison, mapping a strati-graphic profile or room plan map when she was an Eastern New MexicoUniversity graduate student at the 1981 NAN Ranch Archaeological FieldProject. Photograph Courtesy of Western New Mexico University Museum, The NAN RanchCollection, Photo by Dr. Harry Shafer. top right: Dr. Harry J. Shafer, NAN RanchArchaeological Field Project Principal Investigator and Director, mapping, 1980.Photograph Courtesy of Western New Mexico University Museum, The NAN RanchCollection. above: Margaret Ross Hinton, donor of the NAN Ranch Collection,in her field clothes out at the field school, no date. Photograph Courtesy ofWestern New Mexico University Museum, The NAN Ranch Collection, Hinton Family Photo.

1976, she called upon Dr. Harry J. Shafer, a Texas A & M University archeol-ogist, to begin a field school research program that culminated in over threedecades of research and excavation resulting in the NAN Ranch Collection. “My mother chose WNMU Museum due to the demonstrated commitment

to provide scholars research access to collections, to student engagement inresearch, to collection preservation and security, and to the exhibition ofinterpretative displays of artifacts and materials,” said Margaret AnnHampton, Hinton’s daughter. The scientific excavations at NAN Ranch Ruin spanned 10 field seasons

beginning in 1978. In 1981, Dr. Cynthia Ann Bettison, WNMU MuseumDirector and Archaeologist, was a graduate student at the field school. Research on the materials recovered, including stone and bone tools, beads,

pottery, animal bones and pollen and charcoal samples found in living spacesand trash, reveal much about everyday Mimbres life. It is the pottery that cap-tures the imagination because of the graphic depictions of ancient life. “We are honored to be the steward of this incredible research collection,”

stated Bettison. “Our community has completely embraced the collection andthe legacy of Margaret Ann Hinton.” A host of questions still remain about the Mimbres people. The artifacts and

materials of the NAN Ranch collection hold many answers that will no doubtbe revealed as Western New Mexico University Museum embraces a new-found mission as one of the major research facilities for the Mimbres culture.

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Crossing the state’s southwest corner on Interstate 10, one would be hard pressed to imagine that just up the roadlies a historic mining community packed with museums, galleries, coffee shops, nick-knacks and a back door access-ing three million acres of national forest. Silver City has so much to offer, one almost overlooks its primary qualities– a friendly, small-town atmosphere with great weather.The buildings and homes reflect its copper, silver and gold mining heritage as do the nearby head frames and a

large open pit where mining began over 200 years ago. The Silver City Museum and gift shop in the historic H.B.Ailman home and the JW Art Gallery and Mining Museum in Hurley breathe life into the rough and tumble eras atthe turn of the last century.Equally intriguing are the prehistoric peoples who occupied the area in pit-house communities and cliff dwellings.

Western New Mexico University Museum displays incredible collections of artifacts and finely-painted pottery andserves as a research center for the Mimbres Culture. Almost totally surrounded by the nation’s first designated wilder-ness, the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument and Visitor Center allow visitors to experience the rugged regionthat supported these early inhabitants.Silver City hosts its own hiking and biking trails with hundreds of miles of trails crisscrossing the forested regions.

Camp sites are managed by the forest service near the cliff dwellings, the Gila River, Lake Roberts and near moun-tain brooks. Wildlife and birding opportunities are plentiful.In addition to historic lodging and a variety of restaurant fares that contribute to a positive experience, the city

hosts events that draw national attention. The five-day Tour of the Gila bicycle stage race attracts international rac-ers. The Silver City Blues Festival and the Pickamania Blue Grass Festival include big-name bands and the Wild, WildWest Pro Rodeo touts a large purse. Add to those a Hummingbird Festival, Gila River Festival, Clay Festival, MariachiWorkshop, Fort Bayard Celebration, Gem and Mineral Show markets and tours… well, there you have it – a greatlittle place to have a great big time! See article on page S12.

ENJOY THE GREAT OUTDOORS,MUSEUMS, ART GALLERIES,

SHOPS, RESTAURANTS & HISTORIC SITES.

SilverCityAreaTHE

PhotographCourtesy ofWestern NewMexico UniversityMuseum, TheNAN RanchCollection, Photoby Anthony Howell©2013 WNMU Museum

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11SILVER CITY AREA

AREA ATTRACTIONSBIG DITCH PARKOriginally the town’s Main Street, the “Big Ditch”was formed during a series of floods between1895-1906. In 1980 it became a city park.CITY OF ROCKS STATE PARKA city of giant monoliths protruding unexpectedlyfrom the desert floor is located halfway betweenSilver City and Deming, 5 miles east of US180. Thepark has a visitor center, hiking trails, and a nightsky observatory. Call for the observatory sched-ule. 575-536-2800. FORT BAYARDBuilt in 1866, the fort was occupied for a time byBuffalo Soldiers of the Ninth Cavalry. The fort bor-ders a state elk refuge and includes one of NewMexico’s two national cemeteries.GERONIMO MONUMENTConstructed at the Gila Cliff Dwelling visitor cen-ter, the monument identifies the headwaters ofthe Gila River as the birthplace of Geronimo.GILA CLIFF DWELLINGS NATIONALMONUMENTBuilt late in the 13th century, there are 42 roomswithin five natural caves. The cliff dwellings areaccessible by a short, well-maintained trail. 575-536-9461GILA NATIONAL FOREST ANDWILDERNESS AREASThree million acres of national forest in southwestNew Mexico surround the Gila Wilderness, thenation’s first such designation, and the morerecent Aldo Leopold Wilderness.HEARST CHURCHSeasonal museum and art gallery. Built in 1898with Hearst newspaper empire money. In PinosAltos, 6 miles north of Silver City.HISTORIC DOWNTOWNA delightful setting for shopping and dining remi-niscent of early mining eras.HISTORIC PINOS ALTOSOnce a rip-roaring gold mining camp, the villagealso served as the original county seat.LAKE ROBERTS This 72-acre lake offers fishing, boating, camping,forest trails and a Mimbres Indian site.SILVER CITY MUSEUMBuilt in 1881, its style and detailing reflect theoptimism of the mining boom era. The museumhas permanent and revolving exhibits.TRAIL OF THE MOUNTAIN SPIRITSNATIONAL SCENIC BYWAYLoops north on NM15 to Gila Cliff Dwellings Nat’l.Monument, southeast on NM35, and west onNM152 and US180.WNMU MUSEUM NAN RANCH COL-LECTIONThe recently acquired collection of prehistoricsouthwestern pottery and artifacts elevated themuseum’s reputation for housing the world’slargest permanent exhibit of Mimbres pottery.MOGOLLON GHOST TOWNRemains of a gold-mining boomtown cling to

the walls of a rugged canyon aboveGlenwood.

See page S15 for additional infor-mation on the Silver City Area.

this page: The Gila CliffDwellings NationalMonument providesinsight into an ancientnative culture thatoccupied the ruggedmountains north of Silver

City. left: Style III, ClassicMimbres Black-on-white

flowerpot form bowl withdiffering geometric designs on the interior

and exterior, an Early Style II Black-on-whitebowl with a dragonfly with Tlaloc eyes, and atextured Mimbres brownware mug.

Pat Bearup Qualified Broker, REALTOR®

575-534-5030Pat.Bearup@hotmail.com

www.MimbresRealty.com

Lucy Tully Associate Broker, REALTOR®

575-654-5546LucyTully.Realtor@gmail.comwww.MimbresRealty.com

Helene Perrault HolguinAssociate Broker, REALTOR®

575-313-6799HHolguin4@gmail.com

www.HomesInSilverCityNM.com

Rodger Koest Associate Broker, REALTOR®,

Property Manager 575-313-3208

Rodger@RodgerKoest.comwww.MoveToSilverCity.com

Cissy McAndrew EcoBroker® & GREEN Realtor®

575-538-1337CissyMcAndrew@gmail.comwww.SilverCityTour.com

Open Weekends!Monday-Friday 9 to 5

Saturday-Sunday 10 to 4

No One Knows The CountryLike We Do! ®

Georgia Bearup Qualifying Broker/Owner

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Office in Historic Downtown Silver City • 414 N. Bullard St., Silver City, NM 88061

575-538-3789 • 800-827-9198 • www.MimbresRealty.com

Property Management575-313-3208

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From the historic halls of Santa Fe, to the cavernous foundations of Carlsbad, New Mexico’s history – andmuseums, its temples – maintain an uniquely visible place in the state’s consciousness. But why?There are an estimated 400 museums across the state, boasting everything from ancient relics like the presti-

gious NAN Ranch Mimbres pottery exhibit at the Western New Mexico University Museum in Silver City tothe more than 30 species of living rattlesnakes at the Chiricahua Desert Museum outside of Rodeo.In talking to several leaders from museums and historical organizations throughout New Mexico, a possible

answer emerges in a perfect storm of popular intrigue, environmental factors, and a long and varied population.The story begins, it seems, with a basic description of the environments that make up the state. New Mexico

is expansive, arid and thin with trees. These factors have both informed thestructures and tools the state’s long list of inhabitants have construct-ed to carve out life in the region and preserved those artifacts bet-ter than is possible almost anywhere else.“Without the humidity and moisture you find most places, the

stone, ceramic and fiber tools used most often have held up incred-ibly well,” said Lisa Pugh, President of the New Mexico Associationof Museums, a volunteer organization formed to support museumorganizations and professionals throughout the state. Also, the prolific use of adobe and brick, rather than wood,

in building construction beginning in prehistoric times havehelped those structures survive.It isn’t all about the weather, though, that keeps the history

alive. “New Mexico also has a long history of people from pre-history to the present day and we’re proud of that,” Pugh said.“New Mexicans think it’s important to promote that variedheritage to teach our families and remember the past.”

Whatever the case, New Mexican history is alive andwell at museums throughout the state.

NEW MEXICO’S

Historic Sites & Cultural Centers

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this page: The PoehCultural Center andMuseum in Pojoaquepromotes the arts andshowcases Puebloculture and history.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com12

Museums

13MUSEUMS HISTORIC SITES & CULTURAL CENTERS

ALAMOGORDONM Museum of Space HistoryIf your tastes lie a bit farther from home –

or in the technology it takes to get there –the New Mexico Museum of Space History isthe place for you. With exhibits like early rocket engines,

space suits, and the Daisy Decelerator highspeed test track from famed Holloman AirForce base, the NMMSH is perfect for visi-tors with their head in the stars.“Most people don’t realize how important

New Mexico has been for the space pro-gram,” said Cathy Harper, “but from develop-ing rocket engines, to the upcoming commer-cial space programs, we have it all.”The NMMSH also holds monthly

“Launchpad Lectures” covering topics likeChina’s rapidly developing space programand presentations from past astronauts. Theyalso hold an annual summer space camp thathosts students from around the world. See adon Back Cover.

SILVER CITYSilver City MuseumThrough an exhaustive collection of area

historical exhibits, a knowledgeable staff, anda close connection with the town whose storyit tells, the Silver City Museum is the quin-tessential local museum.Each room of the H.B. Ailman House,

located in Silver City’s historic downtownarea – which, being built in 1881 is itself ahistorical landmark – is packed full of dis-plays depicting the colorful history of nativeAmerican and pioneer cultures, mining,famous resident Billy the Kid, and the leg-endary Big Ditch flood which wiped out thetown’s main street at the time.What really brings the Silver City Museum

and its community together, though, is itsinclusion and support of downtown culturalevents, offering a historical facet to celebra-tions like the Wild,Wild West Pro Rodeo, the4th of July parade, the upcoming ChicanoMusic Festival, and many more.

Western New MexicoUniversity MuseumSome buildings are just destined to be

museums. That seems to be the case for theWNMU Museum, at least.The museum made headlines in 2012

when it became the official home of theextensive NAN Ranch Collection of potteryand artifacts from the Mimbres civilization.The collection includes not only the potteryand artifacts found at the NAN Ranch site bythe Texas A&M faculty and students whoworked it, but also every field notebook andbit of research recorded from the site.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com14

The acquisition was the result of a person-al and exhaustive effort by WNMU MuseumDirector Dr. Cynthia Bettison, who workedat the NAN Ranch site as a student. “I worked on this for 21 years,” she said,

“but finally, the collection came home.”Bettison was also among those who, during

electrical renovation to the former gymnasi-um and science building in 2006-7, found adocument in the basement stating that it wasalways intended to be a museum.

HURLEYJW Art Gallery & Mining MuseumJust southeast of Silver City is the former

mining hub of Hurley. There, in the formerChino mine company store, visitors will finda surprising collection of 14 local artists, andthemed exhibits of regional artwork.Included in the gallery is a small, but histori-cally rich, museum of Hurley and the nearbyghost town, Santa Rita. The museum hosts historical documents

and photographs from the towns’ heydays.Perhaps most exciting are photos of the tower-ing smelter smoke stacks and realtime snap-shots of their eventual demolition.

RODEOChiricahua Desert MuseumDon’t worry about the rattling when you

enter the Chiricahua Desert Museum – it’sjust from the snakes.When Bob and Sheri Ashley visited Rodeo

on their honeymoon, they were hooked andmoved there from out of state a few monthslater. Soon, the couple had opened their natu-ral history oasis, boasting 30 species of rat-tlesnake and other local fauna in their facilityoutside of Rodeo. “Everyone is always so sur-prised by what we’ve built out here,” she said.Next to their serpentine sanctuary is a rare

artwork exhibit related to the state’s wildlifeand regional Native American artifacts.Surrounding the CDM’s indoor rattlesnakefacilities are a number of wildlife gardenscrawling with tortoises and lizards and popu-lar with birds. She13ri says the gardens havedeveloped a reputation and bring wildlifephotographers and birders from all around.

ROSWELLAnderson Museum ofContemporary ArtSince 1967, renowned artists have attend-

ed the Roswell Artist-in-Residence programto hone their skills and grow their body ofwork. Much of that work remains and is ondisplay at the Anderson Museum.Four hundred+ pieces make up the collec-

tion by past residents like sculptor Luis

Gift Shopand Gallery

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15MUSEUMS HISTORIC SITES & CULTURAL CENTERS

AlAmogordoNew mexico museum of Space History3198�State�Route�2001�•�Alamogordo,�NM�88310(575)�437-2840�•�www.nmspacemuseum.org

dEmINgdeming luna mimbres museum301�S.�Silver�Ave.�•�Deming,�NM�88030(575)�546-2382www.lunacountyhistoricalsociety.com

HUrlEYHurley History museum at JW Art gallery99�Cortez�Avenue�•�Hurley,�NM�88043(575)�537-0300�•�www.jwartgallery.com

lordSBUrglordsburg Hidalgo County museum710�East�2nd�St.�•�Lordsburg,�NM�88045(575)�542-9086www.lordsburghidalgocounty.net/museum.htm

rodEoChiricahua desert museum4�Rattlesnake�Canyon�Rd.�•�Rodeo,�NM�88056(575)�557-5757�•�www.chiricahuadesertmuseum.com

roSWEllAnderson museum of Contemporary Art409�East�College�Blvd.�•�Roswell,�NM�88201(575)�623-5600�•�www.roswellamoca.org

SIlVEr CITYSilver City museum312�West�Broadway�•�Silver�City,�NM�88061(575)�538-5921�•�www.silvercitymuseum.org

Western New mexico University museumPO�Box�680�•�Silver�City,�NM�88062(575)�536-6386�•�www.wnmumuseum.org

Jimenez, photographer Raissa Venables andNew Mexico painter Scott Greene.The eclectic collection can be viewed seven

days a week, free of charge and is still growingwith work from each year’s residents. “Thewide range of style here, really reflects the con-cerns and styles of artists working from 1967 tonow,” said co-director Nancy Fleming. “It’severything from new media to very traditionalapproaches that is really representative ofwhat’s going on in contemporary art but maynot be portrayed in today’s arts publications.”

DEMINGDeming Luna Mimbres MuseumLocated on the stretch of highway between

Silver City and Las Cruces, the Deming LunaMimbres Museum has pieced together a col-lection of artifacts from every era of NewMexican history to form what volunteer GlennKruger calls “the Smithsonian of the West.”The museum has paired area ranching,

military, mining, and family histories, withdonated archeological artifacts to offer amosaic of life there through the ages. The toys, tools and furniture from different

periods each bring a different story to thefree, volunteer-operated museum.

“NOT JUST A PLACE...BUT A DESTINATION”

575-546-2382 • 301 S. SILVER AVE. • DEMING, NMWWW. LUNACOUNTYH I STOR ICA L SOC I ETY.COM

One of the Largest Mimbres Pottery Exhibits

Gem & Mineral

Ranch & Farm • Doll Room

Military Room • China & Glassware

Main Street • Gift Shop

The Rug RoomA beautiful section of the trading post featuring one of the largestCollections of Navajo Rugs and Blankets in the Southwest.

Richardson’s Trading Co. & Cash Pawn505-722-4762222 W. Hwy. 66, Gallup, NM 87301e-mail: rtc@cnetco.com

NEW MEXICO

Exclusively

Spirit Deer Dancersby Robert Rivera

The Torres Gallery102 East Water StreetSanta Fe, NM 87501(505) 986-8914www.torresgallery.cominfo@torresgallery.com

Fine Product Photographyby Lisa E. RodriguezBracelet by Jack Tom.

Light Language Fine Product Photography211 West Coal AvenueGallup, NM 87301(505) 870-1124www.lightlanguagestudio.com

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17EXCLUSIVELY NEW MEXICO

Best in Showby Anderson and Avella PeynetsaAvailable for purchase at the Zuni Visitors Center.

Zuni Visitor & Arts Center1239 Historic Highway 53. Zuni, New Mexico 87327www.zunitourism.com505-782-7238

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Emerald Valley Turquoise, Ironwood and Ivory BraceletTufa cast, made by Aaron Anderson,inlay by Lester James, Navajo Artists.

Beeman Jewelry Design211 W. Coal Ave. Gallup, New Mexico505-726-9100beemanjewelrydesign.com

Silver Punch Bowl SetCrafted by legendary Zuni silversmith Frank Vacit. The Inlayed Knife Wing designincludes turquoise, coral, black jet andshell. Made for the Paul Merrill Family inthe late 50's or early 60's. The set wascompleted when Chester Mahooty, anotherfamous Zuni artist made the Ladle.

Joe Milo’s Whitewater TradingP.O. Box 104Van der Wagen, New Mexico 873261-888-Joe-Milowww.joemilo.com

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NEW MEXICO

ExclusivelyAntique and ContemporaryNative Jewelry

Palace Jewelers at Manitou Galleries123 W Palace Ave.Santa Fe, NM 87501505-984-9859manitougalleries.com/jewelry

Handmade Throwsfrom Santa Fe artist, Gretel Underwood

Missoni Bedspread and TowelsHome Treasures • Bellino Italian sheets

Pandora’s500 Montezuma, Suite 119

Santa Fe, NM 87501505-982-3298

www.pandorasantafe.comFetishes by: Harold DavidsonHarold Davidson is a 50 year old artist: His talentis a masterpiece all in it’s self. Animal fetishesare symbolic representations of animals endowedwith spiritual powers. They are the embodimentof these animal’s spirit and can serve as a reflec-tion into ourselves, our strengths, and our weak-nesses.This fetish is available at:

Ellis Tanner Trading Co.1980 Hwy. 602Gallup, NM 87305505-863-4434www.etanner.com

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Northwest New Mexico encompasses the largest market for Native American arts and crafts in the world.Successive generations of talented tribal artisans from the Navajo Nation and the pueblos of Zuni, Acoma andLaguna produce the highest quality handmade blankets, jewelry and pottery to be found anywhere.The previous inhabitants of the area were the ancient Anasazi, ancestors of the Pueblo people, who left behind

impressive ruins at Chaco Culture National Historic Park and Aztec Ruins National Monument in New Mexico,Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado and Canyon de Chelly National Monument in Arizona.Segments of Historic Route 66 pass through the pueblos of Acoma and Laguna and form the main streets of

Gallup and Grants. Scenic Route 53 accesses El Malpais and El Morro National Monuments and the Pueblo of Zuni.Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, a cluster of sandstone buttes and needles on the Arizona-Utah border

defines the American West to many western movie buffs. It is located on the Navajo reservation and accessed byUS 163. Certain reservation roads require Navajo permits or guides.Mesa Verde National Park is a region occupied by ancestral Pueblo people from 600 to 1300 A.D. and includes

the most remarkable cliff dwelling communities in the United States. Check in at the Mesa Verde Visitor andResearch Center near the park entrance. It is accessed off US 160 east of Cortez, Colorado.The geologic diversity of the terrain has given rise to major recreational opportunities including trophy fishing,

rock climbing, mountain biking and hot-air ballooning. Four Corners is the only place in the United States where aperson can actually straddle four states at once. Photo opportunities are especially prevalent along I-40 near Lagunaand Gallup, Shiprock near Farmington, Canyon de Chelly in Arizona and Monument Valley in Utah, the latter threelocated in the Four Corners region.

GALLUP, ZUNI, CHACO CANYON, SHIPROCK, CANYON DE CHELLY, FOUR CORNERS, MESA VERDE & MONUMENT VALLEY

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21INDIAN COUNTRY

this page: MonumentValley on the sprawlingNavajo Reservation isone of numerous majorattractions in the FourCorners region.

22

Since the 1880s, Indian Trading Posts have evolved from mere grocery and feedstores and regional social centers for Native American families into marketing firms, quality assuranceregulators and financial institutions for Native American products. While standardizing business prac-tices and creating international markets for Native American arts and crafts, traders were also able toensure that Indian artists and craftspeople received a fair wholesale price for their products. Obviously, a fair return to the artisan was critical to maintaining a viable market.

To do so, however, the artisans often needed financial help to purchase the expen-sive materials, like silver, turquoise and yarn and, of course, the tools for creatingthe handmade products. Trading posts had vaults for safe storage of valuables,so it was natural that a singular and fascinating alternative banking systemdeveloped. Traders have used cash advances and short-term loans tokeep the artisans in production, while accepting handmade items,called pawn, as collateral for the loans. The items were returnedupon repayment of the loan.At the trading posts of the Southwest, business was done on a

handshake. Traders and Native American families consideredthemselves to be each other’s business partners to such an extentthat trading relationships have been handed down through succes-sive generations by both sides. Today, traders descended fromtraders conduct business much as their ancestors did, and havemaintained relationships with three or four generations of some ofthe same Native American families.The pawn system was self-regulating throughout the system’s his-

tory, an example of the best aspects of the free enterprise system.Successive family generations of both traders and artisans continue todo business with each other in an atmosphere of mutual trust. Eventhough most pawn is returned, over a century’s worth of accumulationmakes pawn vaults excellent sources of reasonably priced, top quality hand-made items.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com

HISTORIC

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOSEPH BURGESS

23HISTORIC TRADING POSTS

GALLUPEllis Tanner Trading Co."It has to work for all of us," is the motto

at Ellis Tanner Trading Company. A fair pay-ment to the artisan and a competitive pricefor the customer. Patrons walk through racksof Pendletons, rugs, pottery, baskets andcases of both “dead pawn” and the morerecent turquoise and silver jewelry made byarea Native Americans. The work ofpainters and carvers is also abundant.Resembling the days of old west trading

posts, the trading company remains a full-service facility. People can bring in lambs,piñons, jewelry, wool, and rugs to sell, theycan buy groceries, dry goods, and hardwareand they can pawn for cash.The trading company was founded in1967

and moved to a 10-acre location in 1980.Owner Ellis Tanner is the fourth generationof the Tanner trading families. His great-grandfather, Seth Tanner, came west withBrigham Young and helped settle this area.

ZUNIJoe Milo’s White Water Trading Co.Located between Gallup and Zuni, Joe

Milo’s Whitewater Trading Company carriesa broad selection of authentic handmadeZuni, Navajo and Hopi jewelry, Navajo rugs,pottery, old pawn, kachinas, Zuni fetishes,sand paintings and collector’s items.The first trading post and U.S. Post Office

were opened at this location in the 1940s byRichard and Lee Van der Wagen. The Foutzbrothers bought the property in 1953 and itwas purchased by Joe Milosevich (Joe Milo)in 1993.

Joe started in the trading business at theage of 22 working from the bottom up anddoing everything from sweeping floors tooperating the cash register. He learnedfrom some of the best traders in thebusiness, especially the art of buildingrelationships with area artisans. Hardwork, patience, determination andunderstanding the importance of earn-ing customer trust led to his own suc-cesses in business as a respected traderin Native American products. See ad onpage 33

opposite: Examples of the exquisite work found atIndian Country trading companies include Zunicluster coral, turquoise and silver jewelry byLorraine Waatasa and a traditional piece of potteryby well known Zuni artist Noreen Simplicio.Courtesy of Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co.

Celebrating 100 Years!One of the most interesting and colorful Indian trading companies in the world can be found in downtown Gallup on historic

Route 66 - Richardson’s Trading Company and Cash Pawn, Inc. Established as traders on the Navajo Reservation since the turn ofthe century, the Richardson family continues a long and historic tradition in Gallup, New Mexico.

Wood floors, pew-like benches, cases full of polished silver and turquoise jewelry, piles of richly-colored Navajo rugs,indian pottery, baskets, beaded items, hundreds of unique, one-of-a-kind Indian art pieces and the sweet smell of aged

leather saddles fill the interior of the store.

TRADERS SINCE 1860

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505-722-4762 • Fax: 505-722-9424222 W. Hwy. 66, Gallup, NM 87301 • e-mail: richardsonstradingco@yahoo.com

25HISTORIC TRADING POSTS

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GALLUPRichardson’s Trading Co. & Cash PawnInnovation and technology have altered

the way we live, and the fast pace of the 21stcentury continues to gain momentum. Stepacross the threshold of Richardson’s TradingCompany in Gallup, however, and you'll bestepping back in time. Continuously familyowned, Richardson's is one of the most col-orful and historic Indian trading posts in theworld, operating much like it did over onehundred years ago. The wooden floors creak under your feet

as you wander through an incredible array ofNavajo and Zuni turquoise and silver ear-rings, squash blossoms, concho belts,bracelets, natural-dye hand-woven rugs,baskets, pottery, fine paintings and bead-work. On most days, Bill Richardson, 95,still comes in to oversee the business andvisit with old customers and travelers fromaround the globe. No matter what bringsyou to Richardson's, a peek at the past or toview today's top Native American artists,you'll walk away enriched.

ZUNITurquoise VillageA major supplier of raw materials in Zuni

and dealer in Native American products,Turquoise Village has been a significant con-tributor to the Zuni art market for the last 37years. Owner Greg Hofmann began selling tonative artisans from his car while attendingcollege. In 1978, he and college friend,Richard Toubman, pooled resources to openTurquoise Village in Zuni and remained part-ners there for 13 years. Greg continued until2013 for total of 37 yrs. See ad on page 37.Greg, a respected and knowledgeable Trader,passed away unexpectedly in early 2014. He willbe greatly missed by the Zuni community and thesurrounding area.

NAVAJO NATIONToadlena Trading Co.Toadlena Trading Post was established in

the late 1890s, over time developing theToadlena/Two Grey Hills designs that con-tinued using hand-spun yarns and naturaldyes. The blankets are now considered thefinest Navajo textiles of the 20th century.Navajo rug trader Mark Winter renovated

the post in 1997, retaining the original char-acter of the building. He devoted part of thestructure as a museum displaying rugs fromgenerations of local weavers.

right: Bill Richardson at 95 years old continues tooversee the trading company started by his familyover a hundred years ago and now managed by hisdaughters Frances Richardson and Sue Keeler.

2013 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com26

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Located on Historic Route 66 between the Zuni Reservationand the Navajo Nation, Gallup is truly the Hub o f Indian

Country. It is the driving force of Native Americanmarkets, commanding attention internationally as theforemost outlet for quality handcrafted jewelry,pottery and blankets. The city also hoststhe renowned Gallup Inter-TribalIndian Ceremonial.A multicultural community,

Gallup’s downtown and parks areenriched with sculpture, muralsand WPA era artwork. It is rec-ognized as America’s most patri-otic small town.Gallup is known as the

Adventure Capitol of NewMexico with it's beautiful land-scapes and many finished trails.The opportunities are numerousfor outdoor activities, such ashiking, biking and climbing.The intriguing handiwork of

Mother Nature is also abun-dant in the region with thecolorful bluffs of Red RockState Park, and the nearby forma-tions of El Morro, El Malpais, Window Rockand Shiprock. Major ruins ofthe Anasazi Culture dot theregion, including ChacoCulture National HistoricPark, a World Heritage Site.

GallupThe marketing epicenter for

Native American work worldwide

SETTLED IN 1881

27INDIAN COUNTRY GALLUP

above: Late 1950s ClusterInlayed Turquoise and SilverSquash necklace by legendary,Zuni Artist Virgil Dishta.Courtesy of Joe Milo's WhiteWater Trading Co.opposite: Traditional PlainsNative American outfits wornat the Gallup Inter-Tribal IndianCeremonial in August.©

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WRITTEN BY JOE BURGESSPHOTOS BY RYAN BROWN AND LISA RODRIQUEZ

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com28 2013 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com28

GALLUP EVENTSMay Dawn ‘til

Dusk Mountain Bike Race. Twelvehour endurance race on Gallup’s HighDesert Trail System course. 505-863-7283 www.dawntilduskrace.com

Jun United States Team RopingChampionship USTRC Red Rock ParkClassic. 505-879-6181 Annual Lions Club Rodeoat Red Rock Park Arena. 505-722-2228 www.galluplions.orgWrangler Junior High Finals Rodeoat Red Rock Park Arena. 505-722-2228

Jul Wrangler Junior High Finals Rodeoat Red Rock Park Arena. 505-722-222821st Annual “Wild Thing”Championship Bull Riding at RedRock Park Arena. 505-722-3839United States Team RopingChampionship USTRC TurquoiseClassic. 505-879-6181

Aug Annual Gallup Inter-Tribal IndianCeremonial at Red Rock Park andother Gallup venues. 505-863-3896www.gallupintertribal.com

Sep Rehobeth McKinley CountyChristian Health Care Services Charity Invitational XIII GolfTournament fund raiser. 505-863-7283Annual Navajo Nation Fair. 928-871-6478 www.navajonationfair.comSquash Blossom Classic. MountainBike Race. 505- 979-2402

Oct Annual Shiprock Navajo Fair.928-871-5801

Dec 34th Annual Red Rock Balloon Rallyat Red Rock Park. First weekend inDecember. 505-863-0262www.redrockballoonrally.comSouthwest Indian Foundation and“Reunion of the Masters, Art of thePeople” award scholarships to studentartists in the region through the Children’sArt Scholarship Program. Held the firstweekend in December. Hands-on work-shops held by the artists on Thursday andFriday. Scholarship winners announcedon Sat. 505-722-3730 www.nps.gov/hutr/www.southwestindian.com Ongoing eventsArts Crawl. Local artists featured indowntown galleries and businessesmonthly on the second Saturday of themonth. 505-722-2228Crownpoint Rug Auction. Typicallyheld on the second Friday of eachmonth. Viewing of rugs starts at 4:00pm to 6:30 pm. Auction begins at 7:00pm. Crownpoint Rug Weavers Assn.505-786-5302 or 505-786-7386www.crownpointrugauction.comNightly Indian Dances and NativeAmerican vendors at 7:00 pm at theCourthouse Square. Memorial Daythrough Labor Day. 505-722-2228

MANUEL ITO

Aaron Anderson

(tufa caster)

Lester James

(inlay)

darryl dean Begay

(tufa caster)

Featuring

AAron Anderson

Lester JAmes

dArryL deAn BegAy

Represented by Beeman Jewelry Design

In the U.S., penalties are stiff for illegally labeling imitationsas genuine products. An item can only be labeled genuineif one or more Native Americans have done all the work involved in creating it.

The Indian Arts and Crafts Board (IACB) of the U.S. Departmentof the Interior provides a number for reporting violations:

Call (888)ARTFAKE or visit: http://www.iacb.doi.gov

COLLECTINGArt

Native American

Buyer’s Guide for Purchasing Native American Arts & CraftsAsk the following questions whenmaking a purchase:

Reprinted with the permission of the Indian Arts & Crafts Association (IACA). iaca.com

Materials: Of what is the item made? If thereare stone settings, are they natural, stabilized,reconstituted or man-made?Technique: Was the piece completely hand-made, or was it made with manufacturedcomponents or processes? For example, if pottery, is it hand coiled, wheel thro wn or pouredgreenware? Is it fired outdoors or in a kiln?

Artisan: What is his/her name? What is thetribal affiliation? If the item is marketed only as“Zuni” or “Navajo” jewelry, be sure it is made byan individual who is a member or certified NativeAmerican artisan of the Zuni Pueblo or NavajoNation. Is there any additional information on theartist’s career, awards, etc. which can be includedwith the purchase?

It is worth the effort for purchasers tobecome knowledgeable shoppers.

www.redrockballoonrally.com • 1 -800-380-4989

Photo

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December 5th, 6th & 7th, 2014

New Mexico’s Premier Balloon Event Since 1981

Possibly moveupfont??

Ceremonial Indian DancesContest Pow-Wow

Indoor & Outdoor Marketplace Juried Art Show

Native American Rodeo Downtown Parades

Native American FoodsCraft Demonstrations

Navajo Song and DanceCeremonial Queen Selection

93rdannual

gallup inter-tribalindian ceremonial

Phone: 505-863-3896 • Email: info@gallup-ceremonial.comwww.theceremonial.com

206 West Coal Avenue, Gallup, New Mexico 87301

Photo by

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AUGUST 6-10, 2014

Mark Your Calendar

The roadmap publisher named Gallup the country’s “Most PatrioticCity” in its annual competition to find the best small cities in America.The judges stated that Gallup “acknowledges the heroic contributions ofdiverse cultures; …sees patriotism in small, everyday acts as well as in

monumental, historic deeds; and …has an overall patriotic philosophy of itsvery own – Gallup Strong.”Among Gallup area citizens are the renowned Navajo Code Talkers who

communicated vital military information during World War II. EightyNational Guardsman from Gallup were captured and forced to make the infa-

mous Bataan Death March.During World War II, many American citizens of Japanese ancestry were placed

in “relocation camps.” Gallup refused to allow its Japanese-American citizens to beremoved. Later, during the Korean War, Gallup’s Hiroshi “Hershey” Miyamura, ofJapanese descent, performed acts of heroism that saved many of his fellowAmerican soldiers. His “faith, love of country and obligation to his community”helped him survive over two subsequent years as a P.O.W. He was awarded theMedal of Honor by President Eisenhower andGallup leaders named a school, park andbridge for their local hero.Twelve lighted pillars list the names of thosewho have served and those who have madethe ultimate sacrifice in Gallup’s VeteransMemorial Plaza. Returning guardsmen arehonored with parades and no one inGallup takes freedom for granted.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com32

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS

ATTRACTIONSChaco Culture National Historical Park aWorld Heritage Site features a nine mile loopthat accesses five different Chacoan sites.Canyon de Chelly National Monumentancient ruins loom silently among the sheerred sandstone cliffs.El Morro and Inscription Rock containsover 2,000 historic petroglyphs and inscrip-tions carved into the rock.Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Sitesells old and new Native American art and ishost to two auctions each year.www.nps.gov/hutrOutdoor Murals portraying the area’s richhistory and diverse cultures turn the down-town district into a museum of art.Pueblo of Zuni known for its craftmanshipand skilled artisans is considered to be themost traditional and largest of the 19 NewMexico pueblos. 575-782-5531 www.zunitourism.comWindow Rock the ceremonial center of theearth for the Navajo people and capitol of theNavajo Nation.

LOCATIONGallup is located at the junction of I-40,US 666 and NM 602, in the heart ofIndian Country, 138 miles west of Albu-querque and 31 miles north of Zuni.

MORE INFORMATION Gallup Visitors and Information Center(800) 242-4282 www.gallupnm.orgGallup McKinley County Chamber ofCommerce (505) 722-2228 (800) 380-4989

This is a must stop enroute to the majestic Zuni Pueblo and El Morro National Monument!

Authenticity is guaranteed on Navajo rugs, kachinas, pottery, collector’s items, sand paintings, Zuni fetishes, Old Pawn, Zuni, Navajo and Hopi jewelry.

W H O L E S A L E • R E T A I L

1•888•JOE•MILOP.O. BOX 104 • VAN DER WAGEN, NEW MEXICO • 87326

www.joemilo.com e-mail: joemilo@hughes.net17 miles south of Gallup on Highway 602- Exit 20 in Gallup

White Water Trading Co.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com34

If indeed New Mexico is enchanted, it is due in large part to its Pueblo Indian inhabitants. Themost traditional of these groups, due in part to its relative isolation, is the Zuni. The largest ofNew Mexico’s 19 pueblos, the Zuni Reservation covers over 700 square miles. The town of Zuni,or Halona Idiwan’a, is the pueblo’s ceremonial and government center, as well as the best placeto purchase the incredible crafts of Zuni artisans. Truly an “artist colony,” a large percentage of the

Zuni workforce is involved in making art. The intricate Zuni inlay silverwork and stone “fetish”carvings are unmatched. Its pottery is distinctive and the quality unsurpassed.

A number of tours are possible in Zuni and the surrounding pueblo and can be coordinated throughthe Zuni Visitor Center. The heart of Zuni can be experienced on the “Middle Village” (Halona Idiwan'a) Walking Tour that windsthrough the tribe’s historic residential community and cultural center. The Old Zuni Mission Tour highlights Nuestra Señora deGuadalupe mission – ca. 1630 and its acclaimed larger than life murals of Zuni ceremonial figures. The tribe’s culture is representedin the A:shiwi A:wan Museum and Heritage Center featuring an exhibit of the ancestral village of Hawikku.

Keshshi! “Welcome!”Zuni

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY TOM KENNEDY

35INDIAN COUNTRY ZUNI PUEBLO

Archaeological tours of the actual ruins ofHawikku, the place of first European contactin the Southwest, are also possible. Touringthe Village of the Great Kivas, a Chacoanoutlier with nearby rock art, is an option.Visitors should absolutely consider the Zuni

Artist Workshop Tour to gain exclusive accessto some of Zuni's finest artists and learnabout traditional Zuni arts from an expert.Use common sense etiquette when visit-

ing any of New Mexico’s pueblos or reser-vations. They are sovereign, self-governednations with rules and laws that must befollowed. Information obtained at theVisitor Center will guide you toward a safeand exciting Zuni experience.

opposite: Feathers, turquoise, beads and silverconnect even young dancers to ancient roots.below: Sleeping Beauty Turquoise Cluster Braceletby noted Zuni artists Robert & Bernice Leekya.Courtesy of Joe Milo's White Water Trading Co.

ATTRACTIONSOld Zuni Mission. Originally constructed in1629, the Spanish mission architecture nowincludes murals of Zuni Kachina figures. Halona Plaza & The Inn at Halona. Theformer 1866 trading post provides freshproducts, supplies and a deli. The adjoining,lively Bed & Breakfast features examples ofZuni arts, and modern conveniences. (800) 752-3278 www.halona.com A:Shiwi A:Wan Museum & HeritageCenter Displayed are artifacts from a 1916Zuni excavation and a visual representationof the ancestral village. (505) 782-4403. Turquoise Village. One of seven localtrading posts sells both raw materials as wellas finished artworks. (505) 782-4892 Joe Milo’s Whitewater Trading Co.Located seventeen miles south of Gallup, the oldtrading post offers Zuni, Navajo and Hopi artsand crafts. 1(888) JOE MILO www.joemilo.com

EVENTSMay Zuni MainStreet Festival

(505) 782-7238Aug Zuni Community Arts Expo.

(505) 350-786749th Annual Zuni McKinley County Fair.800-748-2142

Oct Zuni Ancient Way Fall Festival & ArtsMarket. (505) 782-7238

Nov Zuni Christmas Lights Parade.(505) 782-7238Holiday Arts Market.(505) 782-7238

LOCATION Zuni Pueblo islocated onScenic NM53,37 milessouth ofGallup, 77miles southwest of Grants,155 miles west of Albuquerque.

MORE INFORMATIONZuni Visitor Center (505) 782-7238www.zunitourism.comMuseum & Heritage Center (505) 782-4403

ZUNI VISITOR& ARTS CENTER1239 HISTORIC HWY. 53

ZUNI, NEW MEXICO 87327ZUNITOURISM.COM • 505-782-7238

ZuniEXPERIENCE

Carvings and Jewelry Handmade By Zuni Artists

Owned and Operated by Zuni Craftspeople. Authenticity Guaranteed. Come in and see our selection at 1177 Hwy. 53.

Visa and Master Card Accepted.

P.O. Box 426 • Zuni, NM 87327 • 505-782-4521

Cimarron Rose& Tierra Madre Arts Gallery

Nurture your spirit in the rustic elegance of our hand-craftednaturally “green” Zuni Mountain Inn known for gracious hospitality, private full kitchen suites and ample amenities.

Bed & Breakfast

v Delivered Breakfastsv Fireplaces v Patios

v GrillsvWildlife Gardensv Trails

Your “Zuni Mountain Oasis”On Trail Of The Ancients Scenic Byway ~Highway 53Between El Morro & El Malpais Nat’l. Monuments

1 - 8 0 0 - 8 5 6 - 57 7 6 v www . c i m a r r o n r o s e . c o m

Welcome to Zuni Pueblo MainStreet –the first Native American Main Street com-munity in the country! This traditionalPueblo community in northwest NewMexico (37 miles south of Gallup) hasembraced appropriate development alongits main corridor of N.M. Highway 53 toenhance local economy and quality of life.The challenge continues to be how to bal-ance an active traditional culture with theneeds of a modern economy and lifestyles.With the unexpected success of the first

Zuni Pueblo MainStreet Festival in mid-May 2013, things are off to a productivestart! The many local and out of town visi-tors enjoyed this positive celebration of Zuniculture, heritage and future possibilities.

WRITTEN BY TOM KENNEDY

Support Zuni

MainStreet Welcome to Zuni

the first Native American

37INDIAN COUNTRY ZUNI PUEBLO

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE BRISLIN

Pueblo

Businesses Pueblo MainStreet —

MainStreet in the country!

Over sixteen venues, thirty-five participat-ing businesses and organizations, and overten traditional and contemporary musicperformance groups and more provided acommunity-wide celebration. Look for aneven bigger and better Zuni PuebloMainStreet Festival in 2014! In the mean-time, come discover how this community issecuring its future and help support itsdozen or more MainStreet trading posts,convenience stores, and restaurants. Seeyou on Zuni Pueblo MainStreet!For more information: 505-782-7238

opposite: The Deer Dance was one of severaltraditional social dances featured during the ZuniPueblo MainStreet Festival. above: A traditionalBuffalo Dance group takes modern transportationto its next performance during the Festival.

For business or pleasure. Uniquely molted in the heart of

Zuni Pueblo. 8 Guest Rooms, beautiful Patios for lounging

and outdoor events, Meeting/Conference/Reception/Retreat

facilities and full Catering Services. Listed in all major Travel

Guide Books and recommended by Guests on Trip Advisor.

23 Pia Mesa Road • Zuni, New Mexico 87327Phone: 505-782-4547 • Fax: 505-782-2155 • email: contact@halona.com

800-752-3278 • www.halona.com

FINE ZUNI JEWELRY

LOCATED IN THE HEART OF THE ZUNI PUEBLO

Monday�thru�Saturday�10:30�-�6:00

P.O.�Box�429�•�Zuni,�NM�87327

505.782.5521�•�1.800.748.2405email:�tvillage@hughes.net�

www.TurquoiseVillage.comTurquoise�Rounded�

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Legendary�Zuni�Artist

Edith�Tsabetsaye

505-782-2100 • 1344 SCENIC HIGHWAY 53 • ZUNI, NM

DAILY LUNCH & DINNER SPECIALSPIZZAS, CALZONES, SUBS & HAMBURGERSLunch and DinnerSpring, Summer & FallLunch and Dinner - Winter

HOURS 11AM - 10PM

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com38

NorthernMountainsSANTA FE, ALBUQUERQUE, TAOS& OJO CALIENTE

WRITTEN BY JOE BURGESS

this page: The northernmountains of New Mexicoinclude its oldest communities,highest peaks and incredible art,history and dining experiences.

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39NORTHERN MOUNTAINS

The remains of prehistoric civilizations in New Mexico’s northern mountains mingle with Native AmericanPueblo populations striving to preserve their ancestral drumbeat while forging ahead with twenty-first centu-ry economic interaction. Isolated Spanish villages have remained unphased by the influx of America’s top sci-entific minds and the world’s fastest computers. Over the centuries, the introduction of horses, prairieschooners, locomotives and airplanes have allowed people from around the world to seek the history, arts, nat-ural beauty and enduring lifestyles – the treasures of Northern New Mexico that alluded Spanish explorers.Thousand-year-old native cultures and 400 years of European influence combine with unique natural hot

mineral waters, some of the nation’s best skiing and white water rafting, and arguably the best shopping in theuniverse to distinguish this region from the rest of the nation.But it’s the brilliant sunlight and the bluest of skies, jagged peaks, rivers tumbling through narrow canyons

and colorful sandstone bluffs that continue to attract creative minds and visitors from afar. From the carvingof ancient petroglyphs through modern graphic manipulation, the artistic spirit that lightly touches every facetof this land of deep spiritual enchantment grows stronger by the day.Discover your artistic niche or extreme physical thrill, hand in hand with Mother Nature herself…or just

sit back and bask in the enlightening ambiance of New Mexico’s Northern Mountains.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com40

ATTRACTIONSOjo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & SpaSuites, cottages, hotel, private homes, full-service spa, restaurant, gift shop, wine bar and lounge, yoga, hiking & biking trails..The Artesian Restaurant. Serving wine and beer. Menu items to include: Grilled Artichoke, Cowboy Caesar Salad, Chile Seared Sea Scallops, lamb, ribeye,housemade pasta and many southwestern favorites. Wine Bar menu includesGreen Chile Fries, Homemade New Mexican Pizzas and Angus, Buffalo andVegetarian Burgers with Sweet Potato Fries. Don't miss the Mango Trés Lechesand Chocolate Cigar desserts!Full-service Spa. Offers a wide array of soothing and restorative therapies including nurturing massage and rejuvenating face and body treatments.

LOCATIONOjo Caliente is located 24 miles north of Españolaon US285, featuring centuries old hot springsflowing from four distinct mineral sources.

TOURFrom Ojo Caliente, take US285 south and gowest on US84 to Abiquiu and GhostRanch or east on US84 to return south throughEspanola to Santa Fe. To Taos, travel 37 milesnortheast on NM 567 through Carson to thepaved West Rim Road to US 64, crossing thestunning Rio Grande Gorge Bridge to Paseo delPueblo Norte and head south into town.

MORE INFORMATIONOjo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa(800) 222-9162 or (505) 583-2233www.ojospa.com

Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa is a legendary oasislocated in the high desert of Northern New Mexico. Deemedsacred by the Native Americans who inhabited this area, this treas-ured land and its ancient springs have provided a secluded sanctu-ary and a source of healing for body, mind and spirit for thousandsof years. Now entering it’s 145th Anniversary (1868-2013), Ojo isone of the nation’s oldest natural health resorts and is the world’sonly known hot springs with the combination of four different, sul-fur-free, mineral waters including iron, arsenic, lithia and soda.Enchanting accommodations (including two private homes), a full-service spa, an exceptional restaurant, daily yoga and thousandsacres of hiking and mountain biking trails make Ojo Caliente a truehealth and wellness destination.Nearing the end of a multi-million dollar renovation, Ojo has

made numerous enhancements to the property including the addi-tion of a wine bar and lounge, a new spa entrance and gift shop, andlodging enhancements including 23 new suites and eight newlyrestored cottages. Secluded private pools with Kiva fireplaces, plus aspa lounge and private treatment rooms have been added to ensurea fully customizable guest experience. One of the spa’s most popular

OjoCalienteMineral Springs Resort & Spa

41NORTHERN MOUNTAINS OJO CALIENTE

opposite, from top left: Eleven pools are fed bynatural, sulfur-free hot springs supplying four distinctmineral waters. The Cliffside Suites have a privateback patio with outdoor soaking tub facing the cliffs.The Artesian Restaurant provides a casual diningexperience and charming atmosphere. Thedetoxifying Mud Pool (open seasonally, May-October)is a popular guest favorite. inset: Iron from this sand-bottom pool is believed to be beneficial to the bloodand immune system. above: Stunning evening soaksunder star-filled skies in the Cliffside Pools.Photos courtesy Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa.

amenities, the Mud Area, will now be openyear-round offering geothermally heated claythat is as soothing to the skin as it is healing.But it is the legendary waters that contin-

ue to attract generations to Ojo CalienteMineral Springs. Over 100,000 gallons perday come to the surface, revitalizing thosewho soak in the healing waters. Ojo haseleven meticulously maintained geothermalmineral pools, including the new Kiva Poolwhich is available exclusively to those lodg-ing in Ojo’s suites to offer a serenely privatesoaking experience. The rejuvenating full-service spa offers a

wide array of pampering Native Americanand Ayurvedic therapies including theAncient Echoes, based on East Indian headmassage, and Blue Corn and Prickly Pear SaltScrub that incorporate locally harvested,wild-crafted herbs and oils. Ojo Caliente, which means “hot eye,” was

named by the Spanish explorers who discov-ered it on their search for the Fountain ofYouth in the 1500s, while Native Americaninhabitants of the area believed the waterswere given to them by their gods. Steeped inmyth and legend, the ancient springs at OjoCaliente provide a welcome respite of heal-ing and relaxation for all who soak in itssacred waters. Lodging rates include entry to all mineral

pools every day during your visit includingthe day you arrive and depart. Ojo Caliente islocated just one hour from Taos and Santa Fe.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com42

TaosAgeless Beauty & Mystique

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS

43

opposite: The San Francisco de Asis church in Ranchos deTaos was photographed by Ansel Adams and continues to bea subject for countless artists and photographers. above: Artand history museums compliment Taos attractions that includean exciting array of shops, galleries and restaurants. right: Taosplaza sculpture includes historic figures and war veterans.

Taos, backed by the rugged peaks of the Sangre de Cristo mountain range, hasbecome a major hub for both the arts and the ultimate in outdoor experiences.Streets lined with galleries, shops, quaint coffee houses and historic hotels touch thecreative spirit within each of us. Huge cottonwood trees, seasonal flowers and crack-ling fireplaces warm the atmosphere of this high altitude plateau year round. An impressive collection of museums showcase the region’s diverse cultures and

multifaceted talent pool.The mysticism of Taos, in a centuries old presentation of cultural development,

natural beauty and brilliant sunshine, has captivated America’s artists, writers, his-torians and anyone else who simply want to experience the essence of New Mexico’senchanted spirit. The multistoried structures of Taos Pueblo, occupied for a millen-nium, the bold adobe walls of St. Francis de Asis church and the stark contrasts cre-ated by the river and its gorge fill portfolios and manuscripts with the jewels of thishigh desert destination. The region represents New Mexico’s bold challenge to Colorado ski claims. It includes the

adrenaline-charged slopes of Taos Ski Valley, ranked among National Geographic’s top 25 ski

towns in the world, and the family-oriented slopes at Red River, Sipapu and Angel Fire. High

speed lifts, snowmobiles and hot air balloons round out this plein air sketch of a perfect win-

ter getaway.

Summer activities are no less challenging. White water rafting, fly fishing, hiking, bik-ing, horseback and llama treks, and yes, lifts are still running and the nightlife steaming.Live music, excellent food, wine, a round of Las Vegas style gambling and a hot rock

massage provide an incredible diversion to sore muscles from the day’s activities.

ATTRACTIONSGov. Bent House & Museum. 117A Bent St. Home of first territorial governor. Old family furnishings andfrontier artifacts on display. 505-758-2376.Millicent Rogers Museum. 1504 Millicent Rogers Rd. New Mexico art, history andcultural exhibits. 505-758-2462. www.millicentrogers.orgRio Grande Gorge Bridge. 11 miles northwest ofTaos. 650 feet above the Rio Grande River.Taos Pueblo. Designated as a World Heritage Site.505-758-1028. www.taospueblo.comTaos Ski Valley. Ski school rated No.1. Vast system of trails for beginning, intermediate and expert skiers.505-776-229l. www.skitaos.org

TAOS EVENTSJan Winter Wine FestivalApr Taos Home & Garden ExpoMay Taos Spring Arts Celebration

Taos Spring Arts & Crafts FairJun Taos Solar Music FestivalJul Fiesta de Santa Ana y Santiago

Taos Pueblo Pow WowAug Autumn Run Classic Car Show

Taos County FairSep Fall Arts Festival

Fall Arts & Crafts FairOct Taos Storytelling Festival

Taos Mountain Balloon RallyNov Yuletide in Taos Arts & Crafts FairDec Festival of Trees

Lighting of LedouxChristmas Eve at Taos Pueblo

LOCATIONTaos is located at the junction of US64, NM68and NM522 between New Mexico’s highestpeaks and deepest gorge.

MORE INFORMATIONTown of Taos(877) 587-9018 www.taosguide5.comTaos Chamber of Commerce (575) 751-8800 www.taoschamber.comTaos Convention Center(800) 323-6338 www.taosconventioncenter.com

NORTHERN MOUNTAINS TAOS

Taos Country Club54�Golf�Course�DriveRanchos�de�Taos,�NM�87557(575)�758-7300www.taoscountryclub.com

A Truly Memorable

Golfing Experience

This 18 hole course received a four-starrating from Golf Digest. Facilities includepractice areas, a pro shop staffed by PGAprofessionals, a restaurant and lounge.

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Among the first businesses established when Santa Fe was founded by Spanish colonists in 1607 was aninn or “fonda.” A place to sleep, eat and bathe after long journeys has always been a welcome conclusion fora weary traveler’s day or trip. The need for accommodations in New Mexico expanded rapidly with thearrival of settlers by the wagonload from eastern states on the Santa Fe and Butterfield Trails. The coming ofthe iron horse, a means of safe, fast and more comfortable form of travel, was accompanied by a rapidlyexpanding lodging industry.Today’s travelers and visitors expect much more from their accommodations in the way of comfort and

amenities. The intriguing tales and meticulous craftsmanship found in historic facilities throughout the statethat have been renovated to serve modern expectations are major draws for those seeking to immerse them-selves in the Land of Enchantment. From rustic old west furnishings to exquisite Victorian styles and offerings,the spirit and warmth of New Mexico prevails.

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS

HistoricHotels, Lodges & Inns

45HISTORIC HOTELS, LODGES & INNS

opposite: The historic Mabel Dodge Luhan Houseaccommodated and inspired notables includingGeorgia O’Keeffe, D.H. Lawrence, Ansel Adams,Martha Graham, Willa Cather and Carl Jung.

Accommodations in Santa Fe and thenorthern villages often reflect the Spanishheritage that prevailed in the region for cen-turies. Taos, however, was greatly influencedby the influx of peoples from eastern statesand northern Europe. Historic route 66 isthe most prevalent influence along the I-40corridor from Tucumcari throughAlbuquerque to Gallup, with Gallup alsobeing influenced by the old west movieindustry. Southern New Mexico reflects itsold west cattle, mining and railroad history,complete with bars, bordellos and a tinge ofupscale Victoria. New Mexico’s historic lodging compli-

ments the exciting eras of Native Americanemergence, Spanish conquests, old westshootouts and the arts from prehistoric timesto modern contemporary. Of course thefacilities are comfortable, they represent amyriad of historic periods, moments andevents and, most importantly, they’re fun!

TAOSMabel Dodge LujanMabel Dodge Luhan, a wealthy heiress,

was a well-known patron of the arts in NewYork and in Europe and a nationally syndi-cated columnist for the Hearst organization.When she moved to Taos in 1919, she

bought a 12-acre property on the advice ofTony Luhan, a Native American whom shemarried four years later, and built the MabelDodge Luhan House. This early example ofPueblo Revival style in Taos was declared aNational Historic Landmark in 1991.For 40 years, Mabel and Tony nurtured the

famous artistic community that centered onher Taos home. During the 1920s and 1930s,hundreds of artists and writers visited andworked at this house. Georgia O’Keeffe,Willa Cather, Ansel Adams, Carl Jung andothers found inspiration there that wouldshape their work. More recently, DennisHopper stayed there while editing Easy Rider.The house remains a haven for artists

and writers.

Historic Taos InnThe inn encompasses several adobe

homes, originally clustered around a court-yard and community well that were con-structed in the 1800s. In the 1890s, thelargest became the home and clinic of the

Retreat style lodging inspires the human spirit…

Georgia O’Keeffe stayed here, as well as many other notables, such as,

D.H. Lawrence, Ansel Adams, Martha Graham and Carl Jung.

240 Morada Lane • Taos, New Mexico 87571

575-751-9686 • 800-846-2235fax: 575-751-0365

E:mail: mabel@mabeldodgeluhan.comwww.mabeldodgeluhan.com

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2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com46

county’s first physician, Dr. Thomas PaulMartin, simply known as “Doc.” Followinghis death in 1936, his wife Helen turned thehomes into guest accommodations.There are 44 unique rooms and suites,

most with pueblo-style fireplaces. A “wish-ing” fountain replaced the original commu-nity well and is now the centerpiece of thelobby, enclosed by vertical vigas rising twoand a half stories to a stained glass cupola. Just a half block from Taos plaza and sur-

rounded by intriguing shops, galleries andmuseums, historic Taos Inn has all the charmof its European counterparts. Acclaimed byNational Geographic Traveler as “One ofAmerica’s Great Inns,” it is listed on theNational and New Mexico Registers ofHistoric Places.

CHIMAYORancho de Chimayó HaciendaSitting on property in the upper Cañada

de Chimayó acquired by Manuel Jaramillo inthe early 1700’s, two family homes were con-structed by his great grandsons,Hermenegildo and Epifanio Jaramillo in the1800s. In 1965, the home of Hermenegildoand his wife, Trinidad, was turned into arestaurant, Restaurante Rancho deChimayó, managed by Florence Jaramillo. In 1984, the successful restaurateur com-

pleted the transformation of the old adobehome of Epifanio and his wife, Adelaida intoHacienda Rancho de Chimayó. Perchedatop a quiet mesa overlooking the restaurantproperty, each of the hacienda’s seven guest

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47HISTORIC HOTELS, LODGES & INNS

rooms opens onto an enclosed courtyard.Within each room one finds turn of the cen-tury antiques, a private bath, a quiet sittingarea and fireplace.The Jaramillos trace their heritage to

José Jaramillo Negrete and his wife Maríade Sotomayór who arrived from MexicoCity in 1693. Their offspring were amongthose colonizing the Spanish villages northof Santa Fe.

SILVER CITYThe Palace Hotel As reported by the Silver City Enterprise,

the Palace Hotel opened on March 1, 1900.Owner Max Shutz, “spared no pains orexpense to make the new hotel an up-to-date house in every respect,” to include clos-ets, bathrooms and electric lights! It is locat-ed in the elegant Meredith and Ailman bankbuilding originally constructed in 1882 withdark green ironwork and an imposing facade. Current owner Nancy Thompson

Johnson, with the help of the MainStreetProject and New Mexico HistoricalPreservation Office, restored the Palace toits former elegance, reopening it in July1990. The lobby includes period furnishings,a large mirror and a painting of Silver City’sfamous “Madame Millie” Cusey.Located in the historic downtown district,

The Palace Hotel is surrounded by galleries,shops, coffee houses and restaurants. It hasbeen featured in Sunset, Gourmet, Traveland Leisure, National Geographic Travelerand the New York Times.

Drinks on the patio at Rancho de Chimayó Restaurante.

Reminiscent of a small hotel inthe European Tradition.

Celebrating 114 Years

Located in the Downtown Historic District.

Affordable Rates • 18 Rooms & Suites • WiFi • Cable TVContinental Breakfast • Special Meeting & Event Room

106 W. Broadway • Silver City, NM 88061

575-388-1811www.silvercitypalacehotel.comVisit Ol West Gallery & Mercantile next door.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com48

SantaFeThe oldest capital city in the United States

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOE BURGESS

ATTRACTIONSCanyon Road. East of Paseo de Peralta. Originally aNative American trail into the mountains; now lined withunique shops, art galleries, artists' studios, restaurantsand local hangouts. 800-777-2489 or 505-955-6200.EI Rancho de las Golondrinas. South of Santa Fe offI-25. Historical Spanish colonial village, now a living his-tory museum, was a stopping point on EI Camino Real.Call for annual event schedule and tours, 505-471-2261.Hyde Memorial State Park. Eight miles northeast ofSanta Fe. Camping, hiking and picnicking. 505-983-7175.www.nmparks.comLoretto Chapel. 207 Old Santa Fe Trail. Houses themiraculous staircase built by a mysterious carpenterbelieved to have been St. Joseph by the Loretto nuns.505-982-0092. www.lorettochapel.comMuseum Hill. On Camino Lejo off Old Santa Fe Trail.Home of the Laboratory of Anthropology, Museum ofIndian Arts & Culture, Museum of International Folk Art,Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, and the WheelwrightMuseum of the American Indian. www.museumhill.orgMuseum of Fine Arts. 107 W. Palace Ave. Southwest,historical and contemporary art. 505-476-5072.www.mfasantafe.orgPalace of the Governors. 105 W. Palace Ave. 17th century building on the Santa Fe Plaza housing his-torical exhibits. The oldest continuously used publicbuilding in the US. 505-476-5100. www.palaceofthegovernors.orgSan Miguel Mission Church. 401 Old Santa Fe Trail.Dates back to first Spanish colonization. Rebuilt follow-ing Pueblo Revolt of 1680. 505-983-3974 or 988-9504.Santuario de Guadalupe. 100 S. Guadalupe. Missionmuseum exhibiting Spanish colonial art. 18th centuryshrine to Our Lady of Guadalupe. 505-988-2027.

EVENTSMay Native Treasures Indian Arts Festival.

505-476-1250Civil War Weekend. El Rancho de lasGolondrinas 505-471-2261 www.golondrinas.orgSanta Fe Film Festival 505-988-7414www.santafefilmfestival

Jun Rodeo de Santa Fe. 505-471-4300www.rodeosantafe.org

Jul Santa Fe Opera Season opens thru Aug 17.800-280-4654 www.santafeopera.orgWine Festival at El Rancho de lasGolondrinas 505-471-2261Santa Fe Int’l. Folk Art Market.505-992-7600 www.folkartmarket.org Traditional Spanish Market on the Plaza.505-982-2226 www.santafenm.info/spanish.htm

Aug Indian Market on the Plaza. 505-983-5220.www.swaia.org

Sep Reniassance Rair at El Rancho de lasGolondrinas 505-471-2261Burning of Zozobra and Santa Fe Fiesta.505-988-7575 www.burnzozobra.comSanta Fe Wine & Chile Fiesta. 505-438-8060www.santawineandchile.org

Oct Harvest Festival at El Rancho de lasGolondrinas. 505-471-2261

Dec Canyon Road Farolito Walk Christmas Eve.Winter Spanish Market 505-982-2226Christmas at the Palace. 505-476-5100Farolitos on the Plaza. 800-777-2489

LOCATIONSanta Fe is located at the junction I-25 and US84/285, the historic termination of El Camino Real and the Santa Fe Trail.

MORE INFORMATIONSanta Fe Chamber of Commerce

(505) 988-3279www.santafechamber.com

Santa Fe Convention andVisitors Bureau (505) 955-6200www.santafe.org

Santa Fe is the #1 best shopping destination in the country, according to USA Today.It has been ranked the #1 Cultural getaway and #1 Spa and Relaxation destination byTravel + Leisure. It is the #2 top city in the U.S. to visit, according to Condé Nast

Traveler and the American Lung Association claims that it has the cleanest air inAmerica. The arts and the city’s history no doubt played major rolls, oh, and the factthat Santa Fe cuisine and wine are always ranked in top ten lists and the AmericanPodiatric Association ranks it the top walking city.Santa Fe, the oldest capital city in the United States and inhabited 13 years before the

pilgrims settled Plymouth Colony, became one of America’s premier centers for both visu-al and performing arts. More than 250 galleries line a mile-long stretch along CanyonRoad and every plaza area street. Shops and galleries fill the Guadalupe/Railyard district.Santa Fe’s performing arts encompass more than a dozen venues including historic theaters and

magnificent churches. The renowned Santa Fe Opera occupies its own unique structure and con-tinues to bring stars and audiences from around the globe for summer performances. The city hostsvarious annual music festivals, including chamber, jazz and traditional.Santa Fe has more than ten museums. The adobe Palace of the Governors is the state's

history museum and the oldest continuously occupied public building in the UnitedStates. The Santa Fe Fiesta is the nation’s oldest community celebration.The “City Different” can be accessed by nonstop flights from Dallas, Denver and Los

Angeles. The New Mexico Rail Runner Express carries passengers betweenAlbuquerque and Santa Fe, with free shuttle service from Albuquerque Sunport.

opposite: Santa Fe, the City of Faith, claims the nation’s oldest church, San Miguel Mission, theCathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi and Loretto Chapel (pictured) with its miraculous stair case.above: A bronze sculpture in the courtyard of the Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi depicts theearly inhabitants of Santa Fe. right: Journey’s End at the entrance to Museum Hill is a wagon trainsculpture by Reynaldo Rivera in collaboration with landscape architect Richard Borkovetz.

NORTHERN MOUNTAINS SANTA FE 49

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com50

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51NEW MEXICO CHOCOLATE

When Hernan Cortes stepped out of the ship and splashedashore in Mexico in 1519, he was met by tall Aztec Indians offer-ing a drink—an elixir, actually, a thin syrupy mixture that theycalled Xocolatl.The name “bitter water” was an accurate description, but Cortes

was a man with an eye for the main chance. Within a few years, hehad a cocoa-bean plantation in the Yucatan, operated with slave labor,and he was persuading the Spanish king that this stuff wasn’t bad ifyou added a little sugar to it. There was something about it—a lin-gering sensation of satiety and stimulation familiar to any chocophil-iac in the centuries since. In the interim, of course, this New World

commodity has made its way around the world—much greatchocolate is now grown on the Ivory Coast and inHawaii—and back to its hemisphere of origin.Spanish settlers coming north brought the delicacies

to New Mexico more than 300 years ago. The Land ofEnchantment now has a treasure-trove of small choco-

latiers and their boutiques where travelers can find exemplarychocolate confections. The modern-day trek for chocolate loversstarts in Santa Fe in the north and winds its way down the map toSilver City. Whether you like it in dark or light truffles, infused withchile, or delighting you in an elixir, there’s a chocolate delight foryou in New Mexico!

SANTA FECG Higgins Confections

Start a trek at C.G. Higgins Confectioner, 130 Lincoln Street,right in the heart of downtown Santa Fe, where you’ll find hand-crafted truffles and handcrafted sipping chocolates—you can sipyour drink in-house or buy some chocolate mix to take home.Chuck Higgins—he’s so New Mexican—slips a little chile into a lotof his products, although of course he and his crew make chocolateswithout chile as well. He is known for his mouthwatering brittles.Higgins’ Red Chile Pecan Brittle, the official candy of Santa Fe’s400th anniversary in 2010, has been featured on the cable FoodChannel. With a little bit of red and green chile, it’s a succulentbundle of Santa Fe in a bite. A true boutique chocolatier, Higginsbuys much of his chocolate from Guittard, broker-processors basedin California, who source their products from throughoutMesoamerica. He also buys single-source Hawaiian chocolate—Hawaii being the only one of the United States that grows choco-late. “It’s unusual to get single-source Hawaiian, but we want thebest,” he says proudly.

Chocola�e�-Xocolatl

Comes Home�

opposite: Originally brought to Santa Fe by earlySpanish colonists, chocolate achieves a whole newlevel of decadence at CG Higgins Confections.

WRITTEN BY KATE McGRAW I PHOTO BY JOE BURGESS

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com52

The ChocolateSmithThe ChocolateSmith across from Railyard

Park at 851 Cerrillos Road is dark chocolateheaven—“We specialize in dark chocolate.Everything is 72 percent dark chocolate,”owner Jeff Keenan says. Their gourmet darkchocolate is made by hand using a bittersweetblend of dark chocolate and premium, fresh,local and organic ingredients. You canindulge in timeless classics like the Don JuanPecan confection with toasted pecans,caramel and dark chocolate, or explore con-temporary twists and regional flairs such astheir Backpacker’s Bark. This quaint bou-tique is famous for “barks with bite.” Peoplewalk in asking for the green chile/pistachiodark chocolate bark, because they saw it fea-tured on the Food Channel. AndChocolateSmith does break the dark-choco-late rule sometimes: their white chocolate/lemon/lavender bark will make you thinkrule-breaking is a good thing. Let’s put it thisway—this is true word of mouth. “Peoplecome in asking for it,” Keenan says bemused-ly. “I guess they’ve heard of it.” Well, yes,we’d guess so.©

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53NEW MEXICO CHOCOLATE

Kakawa Chocolate HouseRevive chocolate-as-a-beverage history atKakawa Chocolate House near the largegalleries at 1050 Paseo de Peralta. Oh, theymake some luscious caramels and truffles.Their Earl Grey Tea truffle is memorable.But the real specialty at Kakawa is theirdrinking elixirs, historic drinking choco-lates, such as the Aztec Warrior: 100 per-cent dark chocolate, with a dash of redchile, no sweetener. You may need to be anAztec Warrior to guzzle that one!Montezuma would recognize it. Many peo-ple, owner Tony Bennett admits, prefer theModern Mexican, which is sweeter, with72 percent dark chocolate and cinnamon.All the elixirs start with chocolate import-ed from Switzerland (Fechlin) and France(Valrhona). “That’s the whole game,”Bennett says. “You have to get the best.”These elixirs have garnered Kakawa a lotof press, Bennett adds. Not to brag, butthey were named one of the Top 11 placesin the world to get a hot chocolate onMSN, and one of the top five places in theU.S. by Fodor’s. ©

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CoCopelli ChocolatierThe new kid on the Santa Fe chocolate

block is CoCopelli Chocolatier at 3482Zafarano Dr, Ste A, a mega-center on thesouth side of town. This homespun sweetshop is owned by Lauren Gurney and basical-ly run by her mom-who-helps-out (sheswears that’s her official title), BobbieCronin. CoCopelli is not a boutique—it’s aneclectic chocolate emporium. In your car,someone wants a cupcake, someone wantschocolate-and-peanut butter, and someone iscraving ice cream. CoCopelli is where you’llfind the caramel-ly turtles, the cupcakes, thepeanut-butter chocolate cups—all made in-house—plus Taos Cow ice cream and even,possibly, that dream wedding cake you’vebeen yearning for. “We’re getting more andmore orders for wedding cakes,” Bobbie says.CoCopelli gets its chocolate from SmithChocolate, a fair-trade broker that puts someof its profits back into third-world communi-ties, building schools and houses.

SILVER CITYThe Curious KumquatRon Connoley is chef-owner of The

Curious Kumquat, a restaurant, beer andwine garden (some foodies call it a gastropub)on College Avenue in Silver City that alsooffers gourmet chocolates and desserts. He isone of those fellows who works all day andinto the evening, cooking up fabulous mealsof what he calls “foraged cuisine” for bothlunch and dinner. Saveur magazine’s 2013award for “most far-flung modernist cuisine”went to Connoley. Other media have fea-tured the ‘Quat lately: The New York Timesand Gastronomica magazine. His customersare very glad he finds time to make his gem-like chocolates, enjoying unique fillings likehoney saffron, brandy almond, spearmint,salted caramel. Oh, that rosemary salted

55NEW MEXICO CHOCOLATE

above: Diane’s in Silver City is highly respected forits pastries with chocolate cake topping the list.

caramel! Small wonder that it won BestChocolate Bonbon at the national 2012national Chocolate Fantasy ChocolatierCompetition. To die for.

Diane’s BakeryYou’ll need to flash some cash to win a

Diane’s Chocolate Cake at a charity auction.The last one brought in a top bid of $1,050! Ofcourse, for a much lower price you can havethe piéce de resistance top your scrumptioussteak dinner at the venerable Silver CityDiane’s Restaurant. There’s no deep secret tothe deliciousness. A highly trained, award-winning pastry chef, Diane makes her cakeswith the finest, freshest ingredients: sweet but-ter, fresh flour, and Amber Cacao Powder fromCallebaut, with Callebaut baking chocolate inthe frosting. “We’re also known for brownies,chocolate cream pie and great chocolate chipcookies,” says Diane’s son and manager BodhiWerber, “but it’s really the chocolate cake thatpeople come looking for.” Well, yeah.

The Hester House Candy & GiftsIn 1970 when Carroll and Dorothy Porter’s

Hester House Gifts on Bullard in Silver Citystill a fledgling, they needed a little somethingto attract more customers. Carroll suggestedDorothy’s great fudge. Cut to 2014 and thefudge—at least three batches of 36 poundseach per week—is being made by daughterAlison Porter-Hunter and her son, JonathanHunter. Folks can nosh on fabulous fudgewhile filling their gift lists with cards, CamilleBeckman Hand Therapy, Woodwick candles,Southwestern items and ornaments. Maltedmilk fudge is their newest confection. Classicsare available: Milk Chocolate/Pecan, CaramelNut, Walnut, Pecan, Penuche, Maple, ButterPecan, Divinity, Irish Mint, Rocky Road…Oh,good grief! Go get yourself some fudge already!

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Chocolate Truffles

Chocolate Croissants

Chocolate Cupcakes

Specialty Cakes

Wedding Cakes

Artisan Breads

Pastries • Cookies • Pies

Mon - Sat 7am - 6pm • Sun 8am - 3pm

601 N. Bullard, Suite A • Silver City, NM • 575.534.9229

• Delicious homemade fudge in a variety of flavors

• Large selection of truffles and chocolates

• Southwest edibles and fine gifts

• Woodwick candies

316 N. Bullard St. • Silver City, NM • 575.388.1360

With the arrival of the railroad, Italians immigrants began to flow into New Mexico via New York fromvarious regions of Italy. They found jobs with the railroads, in the coalmines and on farms, since manycame from farming backgrounds. Communities like Las Vegas, New Mexico host large inventories of his-toric homes, many of which were built by Italian bricklayers and stonemasons. Drawn by New Mexico’srich multi-cultural heritage, the Italians were widely assimilated into the population throughout the stateand went on to become successful business owners, community leaders and political figures. Gradually, Italian food gained in popularity and especially in the Santa Fe area, there are restaurants

specializing in the cuisines originating from specific regions of the Italian homeland. Area wise, Italy is notmuch larger than New Mexico, but its wide-ranging terrain and climate from Alpine mountains to sun-drenched Mediterranean islands has produced a diverse cuisine. Cheese varies with each location, withrice, meat and dairy products being more predominant in the north while pasta, vegetables and olive oilare more popular in the south.As one of the oldest wine-producing regions in the

world, wine is an important element of any Italianmeal. There are about 350 official varieties

BuonAppetito!

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com56

WRITTEN BY JOE BURGESS I PHOTO COURTESY OSTERIA D’ ASSISI

57ITALIAN CUISINE

spread across the Italian landscape. Howexciting to pair one of the great Italian importswhenever dining Italian in New Mexico.Spanning the gap from pizza parlors to high-

end chic restaurants, New Mexico has certain-ly embraced its Italian experience and espe-cially the intrigue of a fine Italian evening.

SANTA FEOsteria D’AssisiOstería d’Assisi, Ristorante Italiano, was

opened in Santa Fe by owner/chef LinoPertusini in 1995 with the goal of creating athoroughly Italian experience for northernNew Mexico. Growing up with a professionalchef father in the Lake Como area of north-ern Italy and extensive travel refined andcomplimented Lino’s palate for authenticand memorable cuisine. A warm greeting,gracious service and the use of fresh, season-al ingredients in every homemade item byExecutive Chef Cristian Pontiggia keep theclientele engaged and returning. The LambOsso Buco, a Milanese specialty consisting oforganic braised lamb shank with vegetablesand gremolata polenta, will make you kiss thetips of your fingers. Osteria d’ Assisi is a winner of the distin-

guished Ciao Italia award and the LuigiVeronelli gastronomy award of NorthernAmerican fine Italian dining. Lino has beenawarded the title of Cavaliere del Lavoro bythe Italian government.

Pizzaria LinoTo create pizza for those enjoying the true

essence of life, owner/chef Lino Pertusinipulled all the stops when he establishedPizzeria da Lino near the historic plaza indowntown Santa Fe. He drew on his vastculinary experience in northern Italy toimplement the requirements for the best pos-sible products. He uses only the freshestingredients and time-honored recipes pairedwith the most appropriate wines. Even thedough ages for maximum flavor. He created acharming old-world atmosphere that is bothEuropean and distinctly Santa Fe and heimported the Ferrari of wood-burning pizzaovens. Using a blend of oak for stable heatand pecan wood for flavor, the difference iseasily discernable. A full compliment of pas-tas, soups and salads is available.

opposite: Ostería d’Assisi in Santa Fe is home to fineItalian dining, an authentic and memorable experience.

OSTERIAD’ASSI SI

Ristorante Italiano�RESTAURANT • BAR • PIZZERIA

58 S. FEDERAL PLACE • SANTA FE, NM 87501

505.986.5858 osteriadassisi.com

AUTHENTIC WOOD OVENPIZZA IN SANTA FE

Pasta • Salads • House-made Gelato

505.982.8474pizzeriadalino.com

204 NORTH GUADALUPE STREET • SANTA FE, NEW MEXICO 87501

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com58

Pizzeria EspirituPizzeria Espiritu, a Santa Fe landmark, is

an old world restaurant offering scrumptiousauthentic Italian dishes. The serves al dentepastas, sinfully delicious desserts, and freshgreen salads. All meals are carefully anduniquely prepared using old world recipeswith emphasis on excellent homemadesauces – the key to any worthy Italian fare.The Fettuccini Alfredo in a rich cream

sauce with nutmeg is also available withgreen chile or chipotle. The unmatchedLinguine and Salmon comes with roma andsun-dried tomatoes and eggplant in a lightcream sauce. Beer is served and there is agood selection of Italian wines.

The Palace RestaurantThe Palace Restaurant and Saloon special-

izes in Italian fare as well as contemporaryand classic American and Spanish disheswith draft beer and a strong wine list. Amongthe Italian dishes are Pasta al Forno – bakedrigatoni with short ribs, meatballs and Italiansausage in a savory tomato sauce with parme-san and mozzarella and Ravioli di Tacchino -house made and filled with roasted turkey,ricotta and herbs tossed in a tarragon-mus-tard cream sauce.The dining room combines traditional

Victorian style with Spanish colonial aesthet-ics of the 1850s, providing a distinct atmos-phere for elegant dining and a relaxed barfare. See ad on page 73.

SILVER CITYDiane’s RestaurantIt’s all about freshness for any restaurant

and it’s certainly a requisite for Italian food.Opened in 1996, Diane’s in Silver City con-tinues to make everything from scratch,including the breads and salad dressings. Itoffers a full menu, but you can’t go wrongwith the Chicken Italiano or Marinara Pasta.Owner Diane Barrett’s background

includes baking for some of the largest andmost prestigious resorts and hotels in bothHawaii and Santa Fe. Both her sons, Bodhiand Daniel, share in the cooking, Bodhi hav-ing cooked for restaurants in northernCalifornia and Hawaii.Diane’s has been recognized with numer-

ous awards including New Mexico Magazine’s“Best Eats” award. Not only a local favorite,Diane’s is a visitor destination for its food,artisan breads and European pastries.

Live Entertainment

Fine Wine • BeerSteaks • Seafood

Special EventsSee our Website

FineDinin�

Tues - Fri 11am-10pm • Sat & Sun 9am -10pm • 510 North Bullard • Silver City, NM

575.538.8722 • DianesRestaurant.com

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GOURMET

ALBUQUERQUECafe Plazuela & Cantina Traditional BREAKFASTHotel Albuquerque 800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW New Mexican • • LUNCH505.843.6300 www.hotelabq.com American DINNERCristobal's Fine Dining Room Customized Private Group Rental Only, Hotel Albuquerque Fine • • • DINNER800 Rio Grande Blvd. NW 505.843.6300 CuisineZacatecas 3423 Central Ave. NE Mexican

• • • LUNCH505.255.TACO www.zacatecastacos.com Taqueria DINNERCHIMAYORancho de Chimayo • • • • WEEKEND BRUNCH575.351.4444 www.ranchodechimayo.com

New Mexican LUNCH, DINNERDEMINGLazy Lizard Bar & Grill Holiday Inn Steak & Seafood BREAKFAST, LUNCH4600 E Pine 575-546.2661 holidayinn.com New Mexican,BBQ • • DINNER, SUN BRNCHEL PASOCarlos & Mickey’s BREAKFASTEl Paso Int’l. Airport 6701 Convair Road Mexican • • LUNCH915.780.4749 www.flyelpaso.com DINNEREl Paso VineyardsEl Paso Int’l. Airport 6701 Convair Road Mexican • • LUNCH915.780.4749 www.flyelpaso.com American DINNERTortilla Flats Bar and Grill BREAKFASTEl Paso Int’l. Airport 6701 Convair Road Mexican • • LUNCH915.780.4749 www.flyelpaso.com Grill DINNERELEPHANT BUTTEIvory Tusk Tavern & Restaurant New Mexican BREAKFASTElephant Butte Inn - 401 Hwy 195 Steak • • • • • LUNCH575.744.5431 www.elephantbutteinn.com Seafood DINNERLAS CRUCESGardunos Restaurant & Cantina Authentic BREAKFASTHotel Encanto de Las Cruces - 575.532.4277 New Mexico • • • LUNCH705 S. Telshor Blvd. www.hotelencanto.com & Mexican DINNER OJO CALIENTEThe Artesian Restaurant BREAKFASTOjo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa Steakhouse • • • LUNCH50 Hwy. 414 575.583.2233 www.ojospa.com DINNERSANTA FECowgirl BBQ 319 S. Guadalupe Contemporary LUNCH505.982.2565 www.cowgirlsantafe.com American • • • • • DINNERCoyote Cafe 132 W. Water St. Southwestern LUNCH505.983-1615 www.coyotecafe.com Cuisine • • • • DINNERDel Charro Saloon Appetizers, SaladsInn of the Governors 101 W. Alameda Sandwiches, • • • LUNCH505.982-4333 www.innofthegovernors.com Burgers, Desserts DINNERGeronimo Restaurant 724 Canyon Rd. Global505.982.1500 www.geronimorestaurant.com Eclectic • • • DINNERJoe’s Dining Rodeo Rd. at Zia European BREAKFAST505.471.3800 www.joesdining.com Gluten Free • BW LUNCH, DINNERJunction 530 Guadalupe St. Authentic LUNCH505.988.7222 www.junctionsantafe.com New Mexican • • • DINNERLos Cuates 750 N. St. Francis Dr. Authentic LUNCH505.992.5800 www.lodgeatsantafe.com New Mexican • • • DINNEROsteria D’Assisi 58 Federal Place Authentic LUNCH505.986.5858 www.osteriadassisi.com Italian • • • • • DINNERPizzeria da Lino 204 N. Guadalupe St. Pizza, Pasta LUNCH505.424-8000 www.pizzeriaespiritu.com Salads, Gelato • • • BW DINNERPizzeria Espiritu 1722-A St Michael’s Dr. Authentic Italian LUNCH505.982.8474 www.pizzeriadalino.com Pizza Delivery • • • BW DINNERThe Compound 653 Canyon Road Contemporary LUNCH505.982.4353 www.thecompountrestaurant.com American • • • • DINNERThe Plaza Cafe 54 Lincoln Ave. New Mexican BREAKFAST505.982.1664 www.santafeplazacafe.com American • LUNCH, DINNERThe Plalace Restaurant 142 W. Palace Ave. Contemporary LUNCH505.428-0134 www.palacesantafe.com American, Italian • • • • • DINNERSanta Fe Bar & Grill 187 Paseo de Peralta Contemporary LUNCH505.982.3033 www.santafebargrill.com American • • • • • DINNERSanta Fe Bite 311 Old Santa Fe Trail New Mexican LUNCH505.982.0544 www.santafebite.com American • • • • • DINNERTia's Cocina 125 Washington Ave. Northern 505.988.4900 www.hotelchimayo.com New Mexican • • • DINNERVanessie Santa Fe 427 Water Street Contemporary LUNCH505.984.1193 www.vanessiesantafe.com American • • • • • DINNERZia Diner 326 Guadalupe Contemporary LUNCH505.988.7008 www.ziadiner.com American • • • • • DINNER

D I N I N G , C H O C O L AT E , S PA , A N D B E D & B R E A K FA S T G U I D E

Your Guide

ROOMS/SUIT

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SILVER CITYDiane’s Restaurant 510 N. Bullard St.

• • • BWLUNCH, DINNER

575.538.8722 www.dianesrestaurant.com American SUNDAY BRUNCHDiane’s Bakery & Deli 610 N. Bullard

• •BREAKFAST

575.538.8722 www.dianesrestaurant.com American LUNCHJalisco Cafe Fine Mexican LUNCH103 S. Bullard 575.388.2060 American • BW DINNERLittle Toad Creek Brewery & Distillery LUNCH111 E. College Ave. 575.534.0337 American • • • • DINNERThe Curious Kumquat Modernist Foraged LUNCH111 E. College Ave. 575.534.0337 Unique Choc. • • • BW DINNERTAOSDoc Martin’s 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte Seasonal LUNCH, DINNER575.758.1977 www.docmartinsrestaurant.com New American • • • • • SUNDAY BRUNCHZUNIChu Chu’s Restaurant New Mexican LUNCHOpen 11am-10pm 505.879-2478 Pueblo • • DINNER

SANTA FECG Higgins Confections130 Lincoln Ave. 505.983.86545 www.cghiggins.com • • • • • • •847 Ninita St. 505.820.1315 www.cghiggins.com • • • • • • •The Chocolate Smith851A Cerrillos Rd. 505.473-2111 www.chocolatesmith.com • • •On the Plaza Galleria 66 E. San Francisco St. 505.473-2111 • • •In The Shops at Farmers Market www.chocolatesmith.com • • •CoCopelli Chocolatier3482 Zafarano Dr. Suite A 505.438-CoCo www.cocosantafe.com • • • • •Kakawa Chocolate House1050 E. Paseo de Peralta 505.982.0338 www.kakawachocolates.com • • • • • •SILVER CITYChocolate Fantasia Saturday February 7, 2015Downtown Silver City 575.538-2525 www.mimbresarts.org • • •Curious Kumquat111 E. College St. 575.534-0337 www.curiouskumquat.com • • • •Diane’s Restaurant510 N. Bullard 575.538-8722 www.dianesrestaruant.com • • •Diane’s Bakery & Deli601 N. Bullard, Suite A 575.534.9229 www.dianesrestaurant.com • • •The Hester House Candy & Gifts316 N. Bullard, 575.388.1360 • • • •

CLIFF/GILACasitas de Gila50 Casitas Flats Rd (off Hooker Loop) 877.923.4827 www.casitasdegila.com 5 • •TAOSMabel Dodge Luhan House240 Morada Lane 800.846.2235 www.mabeldodgeluhan.com 19 •GRANTSCimarron Rose689 Oso Ridge Rt. 800.856.5776 www.cimarronrose.com 4 •ZUNIInn at Halona23B Pia Mesa Rd. 505.782.4547 www.halona.com 8 • •

ELEPHANT BUTTEIvory Spa Elephant Butte Inn401 Hwy. 195 744-5431 www.elephantbutteinn.com • • • • •OJO CALIENTEOjo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa50 Los Banos Drive 800.222.9162 www.ojospa.com • • • • • •

DINING, CHOCOLATE, SPA, BED & BREAKFAST GUIDE 59

THE BESTGreen ChileCheeseburgers

Word on the Rialto is that it was the explorer Coronado who first suggested that the expeditioncook put a little chopped green chile on his cheese burger. Or maybe it was Billy the Kid, duringhis reputed stint as a prep cook and dishwasher at La Fonda…Well, maybe not. But uncertain as the origin of the treat is, it is certain that it’s been around a

long time. Sixty-two years ago, in 1952, the then-fledgling Blake’s Lotaburger based inAlbuquerque announced that its patrons could get green chile added to their cheese burgers.And why not? Green chile and cheese are BFFs, and using them to top a well-grilled beef patty

is just a natural extension of an already good idea. For the latter half of the 20th century, at least,the GCCB has been the iconic fast food of New Mexico. Our soldiers get off the planes bringingthem home from overseas deployments and head straight for their favorite burger joint, mouthswatering in anticipation of their chile fix. Returning natives who’ve sojourned in foreign places likeMinnesota or Maine are likewise intent on remedying their deprivation as soon as they get home.The great thing for New Mexicans—and our visitors—is that we’re never very far from a great

Green Chile Cheese Burger. The state is speckled with small burger shops and diners and evenupscale dining establishments, each of which carries somebody’s recommendation as the bestGCCB in the world. Probably we’re all correct!

THE ICONIC NEW MEXICO FAST FOOD

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com60

WRITTEN BY KATE McGRAW I PHOTO COURTESY THE PLAZA CAFE

this page: A greatNew Mexicoinnovation is theaddition of itsfamous green chileto cheese burgersas photographedat the famousPlaza Cafe inSanta Fe.

61NEW MEXICO GREEN CHILE CHEESEBURGERS

SANTA FEPlaza CafeSanta Fe’s oldest restaurant, The Plaza

Cafe, has been in its Plaza location since1905. In 1947, Dan Razatos, a Greek immi-grant, took over and his family has been feed-ing Santa Fe ever since. The Café’s burgersare made of 100 percent New Mexico-raised,grass-fed beef, with the patties hand-formedand never frozen. They’re served on theCafé’s own fresh buns. Nick Razatos, grand-son of the founder, says the reason people loveto make a green chile cheese burger of thePlaza’s Classic Burger, is that “the combina-tion of the flavors leaves an interesting tastein the mouth and people really go for that. Ahamburger is a classic American piece offood,” Nick philosophizes, “and green chile(their green chile is from the Young GunsFarm in Hatch) and cheddar cheese add up tothe New Mexico classic food.”

Cowgirl Santa FeA contributor to the Trip Advisor put it

succinctly: “these must be what green chilecheeseburgers are like in heaven.” Now that’swhat you call a rave review, but Cowgirl BBQmanaging partner Nicolas Ballas says theCowgirl is used to them. What they call onthe menu “The Mother of all Green ChileCheeseburgers” is unbelievably stuffed withhyper deliciousness – starting with a propri-etary blend of beef, buffalo and bacon for thepatty, grilled and topped with melted Brieand truffle-infused Hatch green chile, servedwith a couple of slices of heirloom tomato ona custom-baked brioche bun with green chileand cheddar mixed into the pastry. OMG.And they serve it with truffle fries! “It’s athing of beauty, it really is,” says Nick Ballas.“We’ve taken it to an appropriate extreme.”Small wonder this extravaganza was thePeople’s Choice in the first-ever GCCBSmackdown in October 2013.

Del CharroDel Charro, the restaurant at Santa Fe’s

Inn of the Governors, has a western-saloon-like atmosphere and a reputation for yourfavorite beverages and light bar food. “Wedon’t have a green chile cheese burgerspecifically on the menu,” says manager SamGerberding, “though many of our DelCharro burgers become one after the localsget done!” The Del Charro Burger is 8ounces of New Mexico-raised, grass-fedground beef, handmade in-house. It’s grilledto order and finished with a split-top bunand your choice of sides—you can make itNew Mexico True by topping it with Hatchgreen chile and cheddar cheese. “People justlove a good hamburger, and when they enjoythe green chile cheese burger, it’s a NewMexico flavor treat,” says Sam.

SANTA FE’S OLDEST

RESTAURANTSINCE 1905

Breakfast lunch and dinner everyday.54 Lincoln Avenue. Santa Fe, NM

505-982-1664santafeplazacafe.com

Located on the historicSanta Fe Plaza youwon’t find a better viewor atmosphere whileyou enjoy an authenticNew Mexican

experience. A favoriteamong locals and visitors alike, everyonefinds what they’re looking for at the Plaza Café!

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com62

John and Bonnie Eckre proud owners of the newSanta Fe Bite.

Santa Fe BiteWe’ll try to explain without drooling. A

Green Chile Cheese Burger from Santa FeBite is definitely not fast food. Everything inthis famous institution is cooked to order.Santa Fe Bite is the new incarnation of thelegendary Bobcat Bite that used to be out onthe Old Las Vegas Highway. Out there, co-owners John and Bonnie Eckre garneredawards galore (“Top Ten Burgers in theNation”) and even praise from The FoodNetwork. Then they lost their lease. So theymoved lock, stock and cast-iron grill toGarrett’s Desert Inn, a downtown hostelry atthe End of the Old Santa Fe Trail where itmeets Alameda. They acquired more roomand a patio that is the best spot in Santa Fefor people-watching, and commenced cook-ing their famous GCCBs. There are twosecrets to the Santa Fe Bite burger: the cast-iron grill and the meat. John Eckre makes hisown grills – after 23 years he should knowhow – and they’re seasoned with flaxseed oil.After six months or so of grilling bacon andpork chops, the grill is ready for the ultimatetest: a patty of meat ground fresh daily usinglocal, grass-fed beef that is hormone- andantibiotic-free. John uses only chuck shoul-der and sirloin, and grinds the meat to an85/15 fat content. The green chile is fromHatch, mixed to a half-mild, half-hot blend.The cheese is a white Swiss blend. This, folks,is the True Bite. And it is well worth the(short) wait. OK, we’re drooling now.

JunctionYes, Virginia, artsy Santa Fe does have a gen-uine, dedicated sports bar: Junction. It has allthe accoutrements—two 9-foot regulationpool tables, plenty of TVs, free Wi-Fi, awe-some cocktails and beers and great food, fromFrito pie to baby back ribs. Oh, and burgerswith a capital B. These folks bring the Agame. The Green Chile Burger features NewMexico green chile, jack and cheddar cheese.Or choose your patty for a Classic Burger—New Mexico-raised bison, turkey or blackbean veggie. Then tell ‘em to load on somegreen chile and cheese and you’re there.

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311 Old Santa Fe Trail • Santa Fe, NM 87501 • 505.982.0544 • www.santafebite.com

Tuesday - Thursday 11-8 • Friday 11- 9 • Saturday 8-9 • Sunday 8-5 • Closed Mondays • Breakfasts Served Weekends Only

Santa Fe Dining Casual Fun Atmosphere

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Santa Fe Bar & GrillSanta Fe Bar & Grill, a kinda-upscale

restaurant in De Vargas Center, sneaks itsgreen chile cheeseburger onto the menu as“Pancho’s Chopped Steak Sandwich.”Manager Rob Day says they were selling somany burgers they felt the need to disguise ita little. It’s a fresh-grilled, half-pound ham-burger on a sourdough bun with red onion,lettuce, tomato and pickle. You can addWisconsin cheddar and a dose of New Mexicogreen chile. The restaurant uses a blend ofHatch and Chimayo chile. “We ended up inGourmet magazine with that hamburger andEsquire proclaimed us the best hamburger inSanta Fe,” Rob says. He’s not really surprised:“There’s just a flavor there that’s sort ofindigenous…it’s sort of the benchmark for aNew Mexico hamburger.” Oh, si!

Zia DinerYou’ll go back to the future at the Zia Diner,Santa Fe’s favorite hangout for folks who liketheir décor mid-1950s and their food up-to-date. An instance: Mom’s meatloaf, but refur-bished with green chiles and piñon nuts. Thefew lumps just prove the mashed potatoes arethe real thing. A full bar and authentic sodafountain are embroidery on the completelywonderful takes on a green chile cheeseburg-er: the Santa Fe burger, with green chile,asadero cheese, tomato, avocado and a friedjalapeno, or the Zia Burger, with New Mexicograss-fed, all-natural ground chuck on abrioche roll. Add your choice of cheese andtell them to bring on the chile. Yum!

SILVER CITYLittle Toad Creek Brewery & DistilleryPart of the reason the Little Toad Creek burg-ers are so delectable is in the buns—in-house-baked buns crafted of spent grains, the grainleft after their brewing process with the sugarsextracted. You see, Little Toad Creek Brewery& Distillery, located in historic downtownSilver City at the corner of Bullard Street andBroadway, serves the products of the breweryand distillery that partners Teresa Dahl-Bredine and master brewer David Crosleyestablished at Little Toad Creek Inn north-ward in the Mimbres valley. So you’re not onlyfeasting on that signature LTC burger madefrom certified grass-fed beef from the GilaRiver Ranch—with more antioxidants,omega-3's, trace minerals, and vitamins thanconventional beef—plus local micro-greens,Hatch green chile, cheddar and those spent-grain rolls. You also can enjoy their increasing-ly well-known libations: their own frothy brew,say, or a signature vodka martini or a rummojito. It’s the complete package, bar none.

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65NEW MEXICO MUSEUMS

AlamogordoNew Mexico Museum of Space HistoryHwy. 2001 • 575-437-2840nmspacemuseum.org Space age developmentsand travel on display. Oliver Lee Ranch House409 Dog Canyon Rd. • 575-437-8284 PioneerOliver Lee’s restored homestead.Toy Trains Museum & Train RideN. White Sands Blvd • 575-888-207-3564 toy-traindepot.homestead.com Trains of every size.AlbuquerqueAlbuquerque Museum of Art and History19th & Mountain Rd. NW 505-243-7255cabq.gov/museum. Traditional and contemporaryart of New Mexico and sculpture garden.Anderson-Abruzzo AlbuquerqueInternational Balloon Museum9201 Balloon Museum Dr. NE 505-880-0500balloonmuseum.com. Balloon history exhibits,educational programs, library and shop.¡explora! Science Center and Children’sMuseum of Albuquerque1701 Mountain Road NW • 505-224-8300explora.us. Hands-on interactive museum.Indian Pueblo Cultural Center2401 12th St. NW • 866-855-7902indianpueblo.org • Pueblo history blended withwork by contemporary artists and craftsmen.Lodestar Astronomy Planetarium1801 Mountain Rd NW • 505-841-2800. Digitalplanetarium, motion simulator and observatory.Maxwell Museum of Anthropology UNM1 University of New Mexico. 505-277-4405unm.edu/~maxwell. Collections focusing onsouthwest native cultures.National Museum of Nuclear Science &History 601 Eubank SE • 505-245-2137The Manhattan Project includes exhibits aboutthe atomic bomb.National Hispanic Cultural Center of NM1701 4th Street SW•505-246-2261 nhccnm.orgExhibitions, performances and research.NM Museum of Natural History & Science1801 Mt. Rd. NW• 841-2800 nmnaturalhistory.orgExperimental museum with active volcano,dinosaurs and big screen theater. Rio Grande Nature Center2901Candelaria Rd. NW • 505-344-7240rgnc.org The flora, fauna, geology and ecologyof the Rio Grande Valley.Tinkertown Museum121 Sandia Crest Rd. Sandia Park 505-281-5233 tinkertown.com. The Old West and othercollections shown in miniature.University Art Museum and Jonson Gallery UNM •1 University of New Mexico 505-277-4001 unmartmuseum.unm.edu. Collections ofworld re-nowned European and American art.Unser Racing Museum 1776 Montano Rd. NW• 505-341-1776 unserracingmuseum.com Fourgenerations of Unsers and racecars.BelenHarvey House Museum104 N. First Street • 505-861-0581. Harvey Girls,Harvey Houses; Santa Fe Railway; Valencia CountyHistory; Model Railroad Display, Monthly Exhibits.CapitanSmokey Bear Museum102 Smokey Bear Blvd • 575-354-2298 A museum devoted to Forest Service fire pre-vention campaign featuring Smokey Bear.CarlsbadCarlsbad Museum an d Art Center 418 W. Fox• 575-887-0276 cityofcarlsbadnm.comFocus on geology, history and art of the region.ChimayõChimayõ Museum13 Plaza del Cerrõ 505-376-2913chimayomuseum.org Historyand culture of Chimayó and its surround-ing communities.

CimarronOld Mill Museum NM21 • 505-376-2913Collections covering the region’s history.CloudcroftSacramento Mountains Historical Museum& Pioneer Village 1000 Hwy. 82 • 575-682-2932cloudcroftmuseum.com. History of the commu-nity from the Old West era to present day.DemingDeming/Luna Mimbres Museum301 S. Silver • 575-546-2382 deminglunamimbresmuseum.comCollections of Mimbres pottery and more.EspanolaBond House Museum710 Bond St. • 505-747-8535Collections focus on art and history of the area.FarmingtonFarmington Museum3041 E. Main St • 505-599-1174farmingtonmuseum.org. Prehistory of the regionand a history of the Navajo and of Farmington.GallupRed Rock Park & Museum Red Rock Park505-722-3839 Displays of native artifacts & art.Rex Museum300 W. Historic Rt. 66 Ave. 505-863-1363History of Gallup’s railroads and mines.GrantsNM Mining Museum100 N. Iron Ave. 800-748-2142 Collections devoted to mining.La MesillaGadsden Museum1875 Boutz Rd. • 575-526-6293. Collections of Spanish and Indian artifacts.Las CrucesBranigan Cultural Center501 North Main St. • 575-541-2154las-cruces.org/museums. Museum featuresexhibits of the region’s art and history.Farm and Ranch Heritage Museum4100 Dripping Springs Rd. • 575-522-4100nmfarmandranchmuseum.org. Historical farmand ranch collections featured.Las Cruces Museum of Art491 North Main St. • 575-541-2137las-cruces.org/museums. Contemporary artexhibitions, public and educational activities.Las Cruces Museum of Natural History700 S. Telshor Blvd. • 575-522-3120las-cruces.org/museums. Southwest natural history.Las Cruces Railroad Museum351 N. Mesilla St. • 575-647-4480 las-cruces.org/museums. Local history & railroadiana.NMSU Museum Kent Hall • 575-646-3739nmsu.edu/~museumCollections of gems, fossilsand technological influences of the West.Las VegasCity of Las Vegas Museum & Rough RiderMemorial 727 Grand Ave. • 505-454-1401lasvegasmuseum.org. History of Northeast NM.LincolnHistoric Lincoln-Division of HubbardMuseum US 380 • 575-653-4025Building Tours, Billy the Kid exhibit.LordsburgLordsburg Hidalgo Museum575-542-9086 • 710 East 2nd St.. Old Westmuseum documents early history of the nearbyghost towns of Shakespeare and Steins.Los AlamosBandelier National Monument505-672-3861 • nps.gov/band. Collection ofPueblo culture from 1200 AD to present.Bradbury Science Museum15th & Central. • 505-667-4444 lanl.gov/muse-um • Science exhibits including WWII Project Y.Los Alamos Historical Museum1921 Juniper St. • 505-662-6272losalamoshistory.org. History of Los Alamos.

MadridOld Coal Mine Museum2814 Hwy 14 • 505-438-3780turquoisetrail.org/oldcoalmineIncludes an authentic coal mine shaft. MagdalenaBox Car MuseumN. Main St. • 575-854-2261Old photographs and objects of frontier life.PojoaquePoeh Cultural Center78 Cities of Gold Rd. • 505-455-3334 poehcenter.com Dedicated to the culture of theNorthern Pueblos.Poeh Museum78 Cities of Gold Rd. • 505-455-5041poehmuseum.com History, culture & heritage ofPueblo people.PortalesBlackwater Draw Museum ENMU1500 S. Ave. K • 575-562-1011 enmu.edu/services/museums. Museum focusingon archaeological finds in Blackwater Draw site.RatonThe Raton Museum108 S. Secont St. • 575-445-8979Features the history of the region. RoswellInternational UFO Museum and Research Center 114 N. Main • 800-822-3545roswellufomuseum.com UFO phenomenon.Roswell Museum and Art Center100 W. 11th St. • 575-624-6744 roswellmuseum.org Art and science exhibitsincluding Goddard collection and Hurd/Wyeth art work.RuidosoHubbard Museum of the American West841 Hwy. 70 E. • 575-378-4142hubbardmuseum.org. Devoted to history of theequine & Dave McGary sculpture.Santa FeEl Rancho de las Golondrinas334 Los Pinos Rd. • 505-471-2261 golondri-nas.org A historical physical depiction ofColonial New Mexico. The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum217 Johnson St. • 505-946-1000 okeeffemuseum.orgThe world’s largest collection of art work by leg-endary artist Georgia O’Keeffe. Museum of Spanish Colonial Art750 Camino Lejo 505-982-2226 spanishcolonial.orgShowcase of rich Spanish traditions.The Indian Arts Research Center660 Garcia St. • 505-954-7205Exhibits and collections of Indian art.Institute of American Indian Arts83 Avan Nu Po Rd. • 505-424-2300iaia.edu • Museum houses the national collec-tion of contemporary Native American art.Museum of Fine Arts107 W. Palace Ave. • 505-476-5072nmartmuseum.org • Exhibits of Southwestartists and Taos and Santa Fe Masters.Museum of Indian Arts and Culture710 Camino Lejo • 505-476-1250indianartsandculture.org Indian artifacts.Museum of International Folk Art706 Camino Lejo • 505-476-1200internationalfolkart.org. Collections and exhibitsfrom around the world.100+ countries.New Mexico History Museum120 Lincoln Ave. • 505-476-5100nmhistorymuseum.org • Grand OpeningMemorial Day Weekend 2009. A state-of-the-art, immersive interactive exhibition set tocast new light on how history can be learned.Palace of the Governors105 W. Palace Ave. • 505-476-5100palaceofthegovernors.org His toric landmarkholds the State’s history museum, library andphoto archives.

Santa Fe Children’s Museum1050 Old Pecos Trail • 505-989-8359santafechildrensmuseum.org Youth museumwith focus on the humanities and science.Wheelwright Museum of the AmericanIndian 704 Camino Lejo • 505-982-4636wheelwright.org. Collections of contemporaryand historic Indian arts and crafts.Silver CitySilver City Museum312 W. Broadway • 575-538-5921silvercitymuseum.org Victorian era and frontier collections.WNMU Museum WNMU Campus1000 W. College 575-538-6386 • History ofsouthwest New Mexico exhibiting the worlds’slargest collection of Mimbres pottery includingthe NAN Ranch collection.SocorroMineralogical Museum NM Institute ofMining and Technology 801 Leroy Place575-835-5420 Fossils & mineral specimens. TaosE.L. Blumenschein Home & Museum222 Ledoux St. • 575-758-0505The Southwest and European traditions and cultures are seen as having melded into one. Governor Bent Home & Museum117 A Bent St.• 575-758-2376. Museum andhome of New Mexico’s first territorial governor.Harwood Museum of Art 238 Ledoux St. • 575-758-9826 harwoodmuseum.org. Taos history with empha-sis on Indian pueblos and Spanish culture.Kit Carson Home & Museum113 Kit Carson Rd. • 575-758-4945kitcarsonhome.com. Mountain man Kit Carson’sartifacts and other frontier exhibits.La Hacienda De Los Martinez708 Hacienda Rd. • 575-758-0505. Tour a largehacienda which portrays Spanish colonial life.Millicent Rogers Museum1504 Millicent Rogers Rd. • 575-758-2462 millicentrogers.org. Collections include hispanicart and Indian exhibits. Also featured is theMaria Martinez collection.Taos Art Museum & Fechin House227 Paseo del Pueblo Norte • 575-758-2690taosartmuseum.org. Home of Russian artist.Furniture and folk art displayed.ToadlenaTwo Grey Hills MuseumToadlena Trading Post • 505-789-3267. Includes the most famous of the Navajo rugs.Truth or ConsequencesGeronimo Springs Museum211 Main St. • 575-894-6600geronimospringsmuseum.com. World-class collection of prehistoric Mimbres pottery,Apache, Hispanic, military, mining, exhibits.TucumcariTucumcari Historical Museum416 S. Adams St.• 575-461-4201. Communityhistory with collections of Indian artifacts.ZuniA:shiwi A:wan Museum and HeritageCenter 02E Ojo Caliente Rd. • 505-782-4403ashiwi-museum.org. Community directed Eco-Museum and Heritage Center.Ganado, AZHubbell Trading PostHwy 264 • 928-755-3475. Oldest operatingTrading Post on the Navajo Nation.Window Rock, AZThe Navajo Nation MuseumHwy 264 & Loop Rd. • 928-871-7941navajonationmuseum.org. History, Culture andexhibitions of the Four Corners Region.El Paso, TXInsights Science Museum505 N. Santa Fe • 915-534-0000insightselpaso.org Explorations in science. El Paso Museum of Art1 Arts Festival Plaza • 915-532-1707elpasoartmuseum.org. Houses a permanent collection of over 5,000 works of art.

Museums & Cultural Centers

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com66

AlbuquerqueWRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOSEPH BURGESS

67NORTHERN MOUNTAINS ALBUQUERQUE

Albuquerque is New Mexico’s largest city, evolving from a small Spanish settle-ment into a modern bastion of technology and clean industry. It is a shopping anddining paradise and supports a vibrant nightlife and the state’s largest casinos. Central Avenue – Historic Route 66 – runs the full width of Albuquerque and

is lined with shopping, dining and entertainment hot spots. Both the downtownand Nob Hill districts boast excellent ethnic restaurants, live music, dancing andtheater. Also on Central Avenue, Albuquerque’s “Old Town,” founded in 1706,features dining, galleries and native crafts. Albuquerque’s major museums arelocated in the Old Town historic district.The latest addition to Albuquerque’s upscale shopping, dining and entertain-

ment venues is ABQ Uptown. The Center includes shops not previously locatedin New Mexico and is easily accessed from Interstate 40 near the state fair grounds.Within its city limits, Albuquerque has more parkland and public open space

per person than any other community in the United States. The world’s longestaerial tramway ascends 10,000-foot Sandia Peak, providing hiking, skiing and din-ing opportunities as well as incredible vistas of the city and beyond. It is home tothe Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, the largest production of its kindfor hot air balloons.The170-acre Albuquerque Biological Park, containing an aquarium, botanical

gardens and zoo, is accessed from Central Avenue and located just blocks awayfrom Old Town. On the northwest edge of town, Petroglyph National Monumentpreserves ancient native symbols and artwork etched onto volcanic rocks.The Indian Pueblo Cultural Center and the National Hispanic Cultural Center

of New Mexico have developed into centers for the expression and preservationof the state’s earlier inhabitants. The Gathering of Nations is now the country’slargest powwow, featuring over 3000 Native American dancers and the crowningof Miss Indian World.

opposite: The renovated Kimo Theater onAlbuquerque’s Central Avenue is among the moreprominent attractions along this major segment ofHistoric Route 66. above: The world’s longesttramway and largest hot-air balloon eventcontribute to the excitement of Albuquerque.

LOCATION Albuquerque is located at the junction of I-25 andI-40, nestled between the Rio Grande and the10,700 ft. bluffs of Sandia Crest.

MORE INFORMATIONAlbuquerque Chamber of Commerce (505) 764-3700 www.abqchamber.com.Albuquerque Convention & Visitors Bureau (800) 733-9918 www.itsatrip.org.Albuquerque Hispano Chamber of Commerce (800) 754-4620 www.ahcnm.org.

EVENTSMar Fiery Foods and BBQ Show 505-873-8680

www.fiery-foods.comRio Grande Arts and Crafts Festival Spring Show505-292-7457 www.riograndefestivals.com

Apr Fiestas de Albuquerque and Founders Day Parade505-768-3556 www.albuquerqueoldtown.comSpring Indian Art Market. 866-855-7902 www.indianpueblo.orgAnnual Gathering of Nations Powwow505-836-2810 www.gatheringofnations.com

May Southwest Funnyfest. 505-768-3544 www.southwestfunnyfest.comAlbuquerque Wine Festival. 505-899-3815www.nmwine.com

Jun End of the Trail World Championship CowboyAction Shooting & Wild West Jubilee.505-843-1320 www.sassnet.comYouth National Arabian Half Arabian ChampionshipHorse Show. 303-696-4500 www.ArabianHorses.org/YNLAlbuquerque Folk Festival 505-867-1944abqfolkfest.orgNew Mexico Arts and Crafts Fair.505-884-9043 www.nmartsandcraftsfair.org

Jul Independence Day Celebration. 505-768-3556www.cabq.govMariachi Spectacular 505-255-1501 www.mariachispetacular.com

Aug The Great Southwestern Antiques Show.505-255-4054 www.greatsouthwesternantiquesshow.comSalsa Fiesta. 505-822-166 www.cabq.gov/crs

Sep New Mexico Wine Festival www.newmexicowinefestival.comNew Mexico State Fair 505-265-3976 www.exponm.comGlobalquerque! 505-232-9868 www.globalquerque.com

Oct Rio Grande Arts and Crafts Festival Balloon FiestaShow 505-292-7457 www.riograndefestivals.comFall Indian Art Market 505-843-7270 www.indianpueblo.orgAlbuquerque International Balloon Fiesta.505-821-1000 www.balloonfiesta.comNM Duke City Marathon. 505-880-1414www.dukecitymarathon.com

Nov Veterans Day Ceremony. 505-256-2042www.nmvetsmemorial.comWeems Gallery ArtFest. 505-293-6133www.weemsgallery.comRio Grande Arts and Crafts Festival Holiday Show.505-292-7457 www.riograndefestivals.com

Dec River of Lights. 505-764-6200 www.cabq.gov/bioparkTwinkle Lights Parade. 505-768-3556 www.cabq.govAnnual Holiday Shop ‘n Stroll in Nob Hill.505-255-5006.Annual Holiday Stroll in Old Town.505-842-8022 www.albuquerqueoldtown.comLuminaria Tour. 505-843-9200 www.cabq.gov/transit

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HistoricRestaurantsNEW MEXICO

Much of New Mexico’s best cuisine hales from historic locations and long standing traditions.Considering a thousand years of Native American involvement with Mother Earth’s bounty andover 400 years of European influence, it is no wonder that the flavors, presentations and locationsthat have evolved in the state have earned as much recognition as the region’s culture and beau-ty. Nationally-recognized chefs and their personal manipulation of historic influences entice visi-tors from around the world to include the state’s dining opportunities among the reasons for choos-ing New Mexico.Fresh ingredients are the hallmark of any fine-dining restaurant, but the inclusion of flavors of

Spanish or Native American origin found in both old family recipes and recent creations allowNew Mexico cuisine to be a stand-alone experience. Distinguished New Mexico wines have alsoearned a place on restaurant lists of fine wines from around the world.

The CompoundRestaurant’sbeautiful seasonaloutdoor diningroom is located onCanyon Road inSanta Fe.

WRITTEN BY JOSEPH BURGESS, PHOTO COURTESY THE COMPOUND RESTAURANT

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com70

SANTA FEThe CompoundOriginally the centerpiece of the McComb

Compound, the building was among a groupof houses on Canyon Road serving as asecluded getaway in the early 1900s formovie stars, industrialists and socialists. In1966, Will and Barbara Houghton retaineddesigner Alexander Girard, generous donorto Santa Fe’s International Folk ArtMuseum, to give the main house a distinctivelook that became the Compound Restaurantmanaged and later owned by Victor Seguere.Acclaimed fashion designer Tom Ford was abus boy there while attending Santa Fe High.After 35 years of operation, Chef Mark

Kiffin purchased and revitalized the restau-rant. Kiffin was awarded the James BeardBest Chef of the Southwest Award and TheCompound continues its legacy of outstand-ing service, wine and fine Santa Fe dining.

GeronimoOriginally part of a 35-acre tract of farm-

land sold to Geronimo Lopez for 52 pesos,the home was built in 1756 for his wife and12 children. Lopez’s survivors sold the houseto Geronimo Gonzalez who in 1839 sold it tothe Borregos, a prominent New Mexico fam-ily. They added the large front room and gavethe house its current Territorial look beforeselling it in 1900. Mrs. Charles H. Dietrich restored the

house in 1928, winning the Cyrus McCormicprize for Best Restoration. By 1969 theBorrego House had been added to the SantaFe registry of Historic Buildings for itslongevity, classic adobe style and earlyTerritorial architecture.In 1990 Executive Chef/Partner Eric

DiStefano opened Geronimo restaurant,named after the original owners, and contin-ues to create culinary history with NewMexico’s only AAA Four Diamond andMobil/Forbes 4 Star restaurant. See ad onpage 1.

Coyote Cafe Since its inception in 1987 by celebrity

Chef Mark Miller, The Coyote Café quicklybecame a Santa Fe institution. He helpedestablish and popularize modern southwest-ern cuisine in the City Different.In January of 2008 the restaurant was pur-

chased by its General Manager Tori Mendes,sommelier Quinn Stephenson, and Chef EricDiStefano. Chef DiStefano has brought afresh perspective to the Coyote Café. His sig-nature Elk Tenderloin and Fiery Hot and

(575) 388-2060 • 103 South Bullard Street • Silver City, N.M. 88061

• Steaks • Dine-In Or Carry Out • Children’s Menu

71NEW MEXICO HISTORIC RESTAURANTS

Sweet Mexican White Prawns have becomeclassics, accompanied by memorable desertsand a global wine list.Located a block from the historic square,

the Rooftop Cantina has been a great outdoorgathering spot in the warmer months with alively social scene where cool cocktails and abar menu are served. See ad on page 5.

Vanessie Santa FeNamed for the original owner’s wife, Vicky

Liberte, Vanessie was designed by architectRon Robles to be something different forSanta Fe. Its large mission doors opening intoa spacious dining area with 16-foot ceilingscontrasts with the small traditional rooms ofmost other restaurants. Incorporated intoVanessie’s 1983 construction was an adobehome built in the late 1890s that now servesprimarily as the entrance.General Manager Hideko Amasaki has

guided the restaurant for the past 21 years.For 10 of those years, Chef Augustine (Tino)has delighted customers with his Americangrill selections that include seafood, elk andNew Zealand lamb, and Doug Montgomerycelebrates 31 years of entertaining inVanessie’s lounge. The surrounding buildingshave been transformed into Vanessie’s bou-tique inn by owner, Dr. Ron Bulard.

Joe’s DiningWith a passion for a sustainable, local food

supply, Joe’s Dining in Santa Fe offers grass-fin-ished New Mexico lamb, bison and SweetgrassCo-op ground beef. It utilizes New Mexico-grown organic flour and house-made mozzarel-la–many items are made from scratch. Theunpretentious atmosphere is for those demand-ing uncompromising quality of ingredients.

TAOSDoc Martin’s RestaurantThe restaurant occupies an 1800s adobe

house purchased as the home and clinic ofthe county’s first physician, Dr. ThomasMartin. Over time, Martin purchased theremaining houses around the courtyard andwell. Following his death in 1936, his wife,Helen, turned the compound into an inn.The historic facility has a bright and colorfulinterior setting and is within easy walking dis-tance to the plaza and numerous galleries,shops and museums.Executive Chef Zippy White prepares his

new American fare and the 400+ wine selec-tions have earned Wine Spectator’s “Best Of”Award of Excellence for 25 consecutive years.

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SANTA FEThe Palace RestaurantLocated near the Santa Fe Plaza, the Palace Restaurant and Saloon

reflects the Spanish Colonial aesthetic of New Mexico in the wild westof the 1850s. The red, flocked velvet wallpaper in the saloon recalls theera of Doña María Gertrudis Barceló, called "La Doña Tules," and thegambling halls and saloons of yesteryear. A master gambler and shrewdbusinesswoman, she is said to have had close ties to Manuel Armillo,the last governor of New Mexico under the Mexican Republic, andArchbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy. The Palace offers Italian Entrees,lunch and saloon menus, and a diverse wine list.

ALBUQUERQUEZacatecas Tacos + TequilaAcclaimed Santa Fe restaurateur Mark Kiffin opened a second restau-

rant, Zacatecas Tacos + Tequilla, in Albuquerque’s Knob Hill District.Renovating a historic Route 66 service station, Kiffin’s menu leans towardCentral Mexico’s classic, cross-cultural blend of foods and recipes. Themargarita bar also features tequilas, mescal and Mexican beer.

SILVER CITYJalisco CafeFour generations of Mesa family ownership make Jalisco Café a

Silver City staple. The red brick building that has been the restau-rant’s location since 1984 has served a number of enterprises in thehistoric downtown district, including a Civilian Conservation Corpsinfirmary ward. Originally occupying just one room, Jalisco Caféquickly expanded into the whole building. It offers a full menu, spe-cializing in outstanding Mexican and American food.

Sopapillas, a pastry often filled with honey at Rancho de Chimayo Restaurante.

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CHIMAYORancho de Chimayó RestauranteThe restaurant is the ancestral home of the Jaramillo family who

arrived in New Mexico as Spanish colonists in1693. The lush canyonproperty was purchased in the early 1700s and the current adobestructures were built by two Jaramillo brothers in the 1800s. In 1965,the Jaramillo home became Restaurante Rancho de Chimayó.Fireplaces, cozy rooms and family photos create a warm and roman-tic interior ambiance while a spacious terraced patio entices outdoordining. Owner/manager Florence Jaramillo has served on and beenhonored by both the national and state Restaurant Associationboards. Her menu focuses on native New Mexican cuisine.

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this page: A curtain formationat Carlsbad Caverns NationalPark highlights both the varietyand intricate detail of nature’sunderground artwork.

BITTER LAKE NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGEEstablished in 1937 on the Pecos River, the 25,000-acrehabitat supports unique wildlife in a harsh desert envi-ronment. 575-622-6755

CARLSBAD CAVERNS NATIONAL PARKOne of nature’s marvels, the park consists of over 100 cavesincluding the deepest in the U.S. at 1,567 feet. Tours avail-able. 575-785-2232

FORT SELDEN HISTORIC SITEAn 1800s cavalry fort that was utilized by the BuffaloSoldiers. A year-round visitor center and living historydemonstrations on weekends May through September.Nineteenth century military encampments secondSaturdays monthly year-round. 575-526-8911

FORT STANTON STATE MONUMENTEstablished as a military fort in 1855, it also served as atuberculosis hospital and WWII internment camp forGerman seamen. 888-667-2757

INTERNATIONAL UFO MUSEUM AND RESEARCH CENTERLocation of the 1947 Roswell Incident, this is the place togo for anything of an alien nature. 800-822-3545

JOHN SIMPSON CHISUM MONUMENTBronze statue in Roswell representing the legendary cattle-man, the largest cattle producer in the nation during the mid1870s. 575-624-6860

LINCOLN HISTORIC DISTRICT AND STATE MONUMENTThe most visited state monument includes 17 structuresrepresentative of the 1870s-1880s Lincoln County War andescape of Billy the Kid. 888-667-2757

ROSWELL ZOO AND BIRD SANCTUARYThe 34-acre Spring River parkland includes 5 primaryzoo areas, a 1921 wooden horse carousel and miniaturetrain. 575-624-6760

SIERRA BLANCA AND WHITEMOUNTAIN WILDERNESSAt 12,000 feet (8,000 feet above the adjacent valley), itincludes the nation’s southernmost major ski area. 575-464-3600

SMOKEY BEAR HISTORICAL PARKLocated in Capitan, the park and visitor center honor thebear cub that became the icon of forest fire prevention.888-667-2757

THREE RIVERS PETROGLYPH SITE (BLM)Over 21,000 glyphs are scattered over 50 acres datingback to between 900 and 1400 AD. 575-525-4300

VALLEY OF FIRES RECREATION AREA (BLM) The 5,000-year old, 125-square mile lava flow includesvisitor center, campsites and trails. 575-648-2241

WHITE SANDS NATIONAL MONUMENTThe 275 square miles of desert that include the world’slargest gypsum dunefield are a great place for a familyromp or a full-moon music concert. 575-479-6124

SOUTHEAST

Southern New Mexico has such incredible weather that just about any day is a goodday to hit the road and see what the area has to offer. White Sands National Monument is otherworldly in its beauty. Gypsum crystals pro-

vide the unique landscape, which makes up the largest gypsum sand dunes area on theentire planet. Rockhounding abounds in Southern New Mexico. The City of Rocks State Park offers

camping, picnic sites and a city of huge boulders to climb and ponder. Rockhound StatePark near Deming will delight the rockhounder in anyone.Journey inside the earth at Carlsbad Caverns National Park and enter a world of

nature's making that will astound you. There are various areas in the region for successful bird watching but one of the most

spectacular spots is the Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge near Socorro wheretens of thousands of birds migrate.Southern New Mexico’s Elephant Butte Lake State Park offers a full range of water

sports including water skiing, swimming, kayaking, sailing, jet skiing and parasailing. The Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument outside of Silver City will take you back

to another time when the Mogollon culture enjoyed the Gila Wilderness.The Silver City Museum and Western New Mexico University Museum are not to be

missed. The WNMU Museum now houses the NAN Ranch collection of prehistoric arti-facts, which is the largest Mimbres display in the country. So if you’ve always held the notion that Southern New Mexico is just a vast desert with

a small population and lots of jackrabbits hopping around, just two words for you –rethink it!

PARKS & MONUMENTS SOUTHEAST NEW MEXICO 75

LOCATION Alamogordo is located at the junction ofUS70 and US84, between Las Cruces and Ruidoso.

MORE INFORMATIONAlamogordo Visitors Center (575) 437-6120or (800) 826-0294 www.alamogordo.com.City of Alamogordohttp://ci.alamogordo.nm.us/site4.aspx.

Alamogordo&"Gypsum dunes and Space-age Technology."

ATTRACTIONSAlameda Park and Zoo. Oldest zoo in the south-west with exotic and indigenous animals. 100-yearold Toy Train Depot. 1321 N. White Sands Blvd.575-439-4290 www.alamogordo.com.Founders Park. Honoring the people and cul-tures involved in establishing the City ofAlamogordo. 10th St. and White Sands Blvd. New Mexico Museum of Space History.Model 2001 space station, Clyde W. TombaughSpace Theater with a 40-foot wrap-aroundOMNIMAX screen and audio system and the JohnP. Stapp Air and Space Park collection of historicspace items. Hwy 2001 off of Scenic Drive. 877-333-6589 www.nmspacemuseum.org.Oliver Lee Memorial State Park. Rebuilt and authentically furnished 19th-century ranchhouse, recreational trail, developed picnic/camp-sites with panoramic view of the Tularosa Basin.409 Dog Canyon Rd. 575-437-8284www.nmparks.com.Three Rivers Petroglyph Site and RecreationArea. One of the largest, over 21,000 petroglyphs,and most interesting sites in the desert southwestscattered over 50 acres. 575-585-3458.White Sands National Monument. Nearly 300-sq. miles of glistening white gypsum sanddunes. US70 between the Las Cruces andAlamogordo. 575-679-2599 or 575-479-6124.www.white-sands-new-mexico.com

EVENTSApr Trinity Site Tour. 575-678-1134 May National Astronomy Day NM Museum of Space

History 877-333-6589 www.nmspacemuseum.orgHeritage Preservation Day. Oliver Lee MemorialState Park. 575-437-8284

Jun Shuttle Camp begins. 877-333-6589www.nmspacemuseum.org

Aug Otero County Fair. 575-437-6120Sep Tularosa Basin Wine & Music Festival

800-826-0294Cottonwood Festival 800-826-0294Oasis Star Party. Oliver Lee Memorial StatePark. 575-356-5331White Sands Balloon Invitational. 800-826-0294White Sands International Filmwww.s\wsiff.com 575-522-1232

Oct Trinity Site Tour. 575-678-1134Dec Deck the Hall Holiday Music Fest.

877-333-6589 www.nmspacemuseum.org

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com76

Serving as the access hub for a host of intriguing geologic formations, outdoor recre-ation, prehistoric artistry and advanced technology, Alamogordo also offers its ownenticements for visitors to pull off the freeways. There is nothing more exciting toyoungsters and grownups alike than the New Mexico Museum of Space History, with itsOMNIMAX screen and planetarium, hands-on space displays and rockets. The com-munity is also home to the Southwest’s oldest zoo and a toy train depot with ridesthrough the park. Coupled with its downtown historic district, complete with galleriesand coffee shops, Alamogordo should be on your local day-trip itinerary as a destinationfrom El Paso and Las Cruces.From your Alamogordo base, visit the Oliver Lee Memorial State Park south of town

with its desert mountain hiking trails, White Sands National Monument to the westand the high mountain village of Cloudcroft to the east. North of town lie the Valley ofFires National Recreation Area, a craggy old lava flow area, and the Three RiversPetroglyph National Recreation Site with thousands of the ancient rock carvings andaccess to hiking trails into the White Mountain Wilderness below 12,000-foot SierraBlanca. Las Vegas style gambling and scheduled entertainment are just up the hill onthe Mescalero Indian Reservation.Technology pervades the region with the Sunspot solar observatories perched on the

9000-foot ridge overlooking Alamogordo, the world’s most advanced fighter jets sta-tioned next door at Holloman Air Force Base and the nation’s largest military base atWhite Sands Missile Range. The White Sands base also features a museum and rocketdisplay. See ad on back cover.

this page: Miles ofgypsum dunes create anintriguing study area andplayground. inset: TheMuseum of Space Historyin Alamogordo displaysspace artifacts, rockets andearly manned capsules.

RuidosoValley of Fires National Recreation Area, Smokey BearHistorical Park, Lincoln State Monument & Historic District&Three Rivers Petroglyph Park

"A mountain high playground.”

ATTRACTIONSHubbard Museum of the American West.Exhibits on the West and the Western Horse.US70 near racetrack. 575-378-4142 www.hubbardmuseum.org.Smokey Bear Historical Park and Museum.Depicts the history of this famous bear in thearea where he was found as a small cub. 102Smokey Bear Blvd. 575-354-2298.www.smokeybear.org

LOCATION Ruidoso is located below 12,000 foot SierraBlanca, 19 miles northeast of Mescalero atthe junction of US70 and NM48.

TOUR Return on US70 west 12 miles, turn south 29 miles on NM244 and one mile west onUS82 to Cloudcroft.

MORE INFORMATION Ruidoso Convention Center 877-700-5445 www.ruidosoconventioncenter.com.Ruidoso Valley Chamber of Commerce800-253-2255 www.ruidosonow.com.

this page: Over 20,000 petroglyphs crowdthe rocks at Three Rivers PetroglyphsNational Recreation Site at the base of theWhite Mountain Wilderness north ofAlamogordo. below: Sculptures of wildhorses enhance the entrance to theHubbard Museum of the American West.

Rising high above the surrounding desert regions, Ruidoso is the playground for SouthernNew Mexico and West Texas. Touting unique shops and fine-art galleries, horse racing, casi-no gambling and the Spencer Theater for the performing arts, entertainment and recreationare what Ruidoso does best. The cuisine is first rate and the music scene sizzles. On the shoulder of 12,000-foot Sierra Blanca, Ski Apache is the nation’s southern most

major ski area. Pristine streams, picnic spots, camping areas and Grindstone Lake lie adja-cent to the downtown district. Cross-country horseback riding provides opportunities forthe area's population of equestrian lovers. Ruidoso hosts several of New Mexico’s premiere destination hotels, including The Inn of

the Mountain Gods, offering swimming, golfing, fishing, hiking, mountain biking, riding sta-bles and stunning Alpine vistas.Billy the Kid and Pat Garrett are among the participants of the 1870s Lincoln County War,

highlighted in the nearby Lincoln Historic District, and Ruidoso Downs’ Hubbard Museumof the American West keeps the legacy of the Old West alive for future generations.

RUIDOSO SOUTHEAST NEW MEXICO 77

Made famous by a 1947 intergalactic event, Roswell is regionally recognized for its museums andgreen parks, with miles of hike and bike trails and a zoo that includes a miniature train and wood-en-horse carousel. A plethora of cultural activities includes the Anderson Museum of ContemporaryArt featuring a wide collection of modern art forms, while the Roswell Museum and Art Centerhouses the Rogers Aston Indian Gallery and collections of paintings by Peter Hurd, HenrietteWyeth, and Georgia O'Keefe. The Historical Center for Southwest New Mexico, in the stately JamesPhelps White home, is filled with antiques, artifacts, and changing exhibits. The General Douglas L.McBride Museum displays military armaments on the campus of New Mexico Military Institute. Theintriguing International UFO Museum and Research Center, featuring UFO phenomenon exhibitsand The Alien Caffeine Espresso Bar, provides a totally unforgettable experience.Once the Native American hunting grounds of the Mescalero Apache and Comanche, cattle

ranching became prominant with the opening of the Goodnight-Loving Trail and those of JohnChisum in the 1860s-1870s. In 1870, Van Smith established the town of Roswell at the confluenceof the Spring, Hondo and Pecos Rivers. Located along the Pecos River are Bitter Lakes NationalWildlife Refuge and Bottomless Lakes State Park. See ad page15.

LOCATION Roswell is located on the Pecos River 73miles east of Ruidoso at the junction ofUS70, US285 and US380.

MORE INFORMATION Roswell Convention & Visitors Bureau 575-624-7704

ATTRACTIONSAnderson Museum of Contemporary Art. 409 E. College Blvd. 575-623-5600.Bitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge. 575-622-6755.www.southwest.fws.gov/refuges.newmex/bitter.htmil. Bottomless Lakes State Park. Fishing, hiking, swim-ming, wakeless boating, camping. 575-624-6058.International UFO Museum and Research Center.114 N. Main. UFOs and exhibit on 1947incident. 800-822-3545. www.iufomrc.com. Roswell Museum and Art Center. 100 W. 11th. PeterHurd collection, science exhibits and GoddardPlanetarium. 575-624-6744. www.roswellmuseum.org.Spring River Park & Zoo. 1306 E. College Blvd.Carousel, miniature train ride, kids' fishing lake. 575-624-6760.

EVENTS Feb Ann. Pecos Valley Stampede. 575-420-0355Apr Ann. Old Timers Balloon Rally. 575-622-9892May Valley Vintage Car Show. 575-627-8292Jul Ann. UFO Festival. 575-624-6700Sep Ann. Chile Cheese Festival. 575-420-5718Oct Eastern N.M. State Fair. 575-623-9411Dec Electric Light Christmas Parade. 575-420-5718

this page: A sculpture depictinglocal cattle drives by the likes ofcattle baron John Chisum formsthe centerpiece of a downtownpark in Roswell.

RoswellBitter Lake National Wildlife Refuge, The Chisum Trails

Bottomless Lakes State Park,& International UFO Museumand Research Center

"A city of mystery and wonder.”

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com78

79LAS CRUCES SOUTHERN NEW MEXICO

this page: Fort Selden on thebanks of the Rio Grande servedU.S. infantry and cavalry units,including Buffalo Soldiers (inset). Itwas home to a young Douglas MacArthur while his father was postcommander in the late 1880s.

LasCrucesFort Selden National Historic Site, LeesburgDam State Park&New Mexico Farm & Ranch

Heritage Museum"A strategic business and retirement choice."

Las Cruces is one of the nation’s top communities for business and retirement because of itsinfrastructure, climate, a business-oriented New Mexico State University and proximity to strate-gic military bases and the El Paso international border complex. Visitor opportunities include

museums, galleries, new and restored performing arts venues, a revitalized downtown mainstreet district, a river walk ending at Mesilla Valley Bosque State Park and scenic hikingtrails on both sides of the rugged Organ Mountains. The New Mexico Farm and RanchHeritage Museum is an especially educational complex.

Bordering Las Cruces, the Town of Mesilla offers an escape from daily stress with a tra-ditional Mexican plaza surrounded by Spanish territorial architecture and the towersof San Albino Basilica. The village provides excellent dining and one-of-a-kind shops

and galleries. There are weekly performances of mariachi and ballet folklorico groupsin the plaza during summer months. Mesilla was the regional headquarters for theButterfield Stage and the site where Billy the Kid was sentenced to hang.Area attractions include Fort Seldon State Monument and visitor cen-

ter, White Sands National Monument, Aguirre SpringNational Recreational Area, the White SandsMissile Park and Museum and DrippingSprings Natural Area.

ATTRACTIONSBranigan Cultural Center & Art Museum. Historyexhibits, art & culture. 500 N. Water St. 575-541-2155.www.las-cruces.org/museums Chihuahuan Desert Nature Park. Geological forma-tions, desert flora, hiking trail and archaeology. 575-524-3334. www.cdnp.org Fort Selden. An 1800s cavalry fort that was utilizedby the Buffalo Soldiers. Visitor center and living histo-ry demonstrations. 575-526-8911Leasburg Dam State Park. Fishing, campsites andswimming. 19 miles northwest of Las Cruces. 575-524-4068Mesilla Mercado. Local produce & crafts. EveryThurs. & Sun. on Mesilla Plaza. 524-3262New Mexico Farm & Ranch Heritage Museum.3000 years of New Mexico agricultural history. 4100Dripping Springs Rd. 575-522-4100 www.frhm.org San Albino Basilica. Mission church built 1907. OldMesilla Plaza. 575-526-9349

DONA ANA COUNTY EVENTS Apr Annual Border Book Festival.

575-523-3988 www.borderbookfestival.orgMay Cinco de Mayo Fiesta in Mesilla.

www.mesillanm.gov 575-522-4100 Aug New Mexico Wine Harvest Festival.

www.wineharvestfestival.com 575-522-1232Hatch Chile Festival. 575-267-5050www.hatchchilefest.com

Sep Diez y Seis de Septiembre Fiesta in Mesilla. 575-524-3262 www.mesillanm.org The Whole Enchilada Fiesta.www.enchiladafiesta.com 575-526-1938

Oct So. New Mexico State Fair & Rodeo575-524-8602 www.snmstatefairgrounds.netDia de los Muertos at the Plaza 575-647-2639 www.mesillanm.gov

Nov Renaissance Artsfaire. 575-523-6403 www.las-cruces-arts.org Int’l Mariachi Conference & Concert. 575-525-1735 www.lascrucesmariachi.org

Dec Christmas Carols & Luminarias on the Plaza in Mesilla. 575-524-3262www.mesillanm.gov

LOCATION Las Cruces and Old Mesilla straddle the RioGrande at the junction of I-10 and I-25, 46miles north of El Paso.

MORE INFORMATION Las Cruces Convention and Visitors Bureau 575-541-2444 www.las-cruces-new-mexico.org

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com80

Index of AdvertisersAccommodationsBear Creek Motel & Cabins . .www.bearcreekcabins.com . .S21Casitas de Gila Guesthouses www.casitasdegila.com . . . . . . .S15 Elephant Butte Inn & Spa www.elephantbutteinn.com . . . .59,S6Holiday Inn Express-Silver City . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.hiexpress.com/silvercitynm .S12,S14Hotel Albuquerque at Old Townwww.hotelabq.com . . . . . . . .2,59Hotel Chimayó de Santa Fe www.hotelchimayo.com . . . . . . .2,59Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces www.hotelencanto.com . . . . . .2,59Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . .37,59Nativo Lodge . . . . . . . . . . . www.nativolodge.com . . . . . . .2,59Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .wwwojospa.com . . . . . . . .40,59Quality Inn-Deming . . . . www.qualityinndeming.com . . .,59,S8The Lodge at Santa Fe . . . www.lodgeatsantafe.com . . . . . .2,59Whitewater Motel . . . . . .www.whitewatermotel.com . . . . . .S20

Accommodations - HistoricHistoric Taos Inn . . . . . . . . . . www.taosinn.com . . . . .46,59,70Hotel St. Francis . . . . . . . . www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . . .3,59Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . .37,59Mabel Dodge Luhan House . www.mabeldodgeluhan.com .45,59Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . .40,59Palace Hotel, The . . . . .www.silvercitypalacehotel.com . .47,S14Rancho de Chimayo Hacienda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ranchodechimayo.com . . . .46,59

AirportsEl Paso Int’l. Airport . . . . . . .www.flyelpaso.com . . . . . . . . . . . .S23

Art Galleries & StudiosAnthony Howell Studio . . .www.anthonyhowell.com . . . . . . .S17Beeman Jewelry Design . . www.johnbeeman.com . .C2,17,28,C3Casa Nova by Natalie . . . .www.casanovagallery.com . . . . . . . .19Casitas de Gila Art Gallery . .www.casitasdegila.com . . . . . .S15Chiricahua Desert Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.chiricahuadesertmuseum.com . . . .14Fierro Canyon Gallery . .www.fierrocanyongallery.com . . . . .S18JW Art Gallery . . . . . . . . . .www.jwartgallery.com . . . . . .14,S18Leyba & Ingalls Arts . . . . .www.leybaingallsarts.com . . . . . . .S18Lloyd Studios . . . . . . . . . . .www.lloydstudios.com . . . . . . . .S17Lois Duffy Studio . . . . . . . . . .www.loisduffy.com . . . . . . . . .S16Manitou Galleries . . . . . . .www.manitougalleries.com . . . . . . .18Mimbres Region Arts Council Gallery . . . .www.mimbresarts.org . .S14Molly Ramolla Gallery . . . . . .www.ramollaart.com . . . . . . . . .S16Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . .40,59The Raven’s Nest . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S16Seedboat Center for the Arts . .www.seedboatgallery.com . . .S17Tatiana Maria Fine Art & Furniture . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S17The Torres Gallery . . . . . . . www.torresgallery.com . . . . . . .3,16Turquoise Village . . . . . . .www.turquoisevillage.com . . . . . . . .37Ursa Minor Eccentricities .www.ursaminorgallery.com . . . . . .S16Victoria Chick . . . . . . . . . . .www.victoriachick.com . . . . . . . .S18

ArtistAaron Anderson . . . . . . . . .www.johnbeeman.com . . . . .C2,17,28Lester James . . . . . . . . . . .www.johnbeeman.com . . . . . .C2,28Robert Rivera . . . . . . . . . . www.torresgallery.com . . . . . . .3,16

Attractions/EventsA:Shiwi A:Wan Museum and Heritage Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . . . . . . .35Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.socorronm.gov . . . . . . . . . .S4Chaco Canyon National Historical Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.thegallupchamber.com . . . . . . .29Chocolate Fantasia . . . . . . . . . .www.mimbresarts.org . . . . . . .54City of Rocks State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.southwestnewmexico.org 11,S8El Camino Real Int’l. Heritage Center . . .www.socorronm.gov . . . . .S4Elephant Butte Lake State Park . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.elephantbuttechamberofcommerce.com . .S6Gallup Inter-Tribal Ceremonial . . . . www.theceremonial.com . . . . .31

Gallup Outdoor Murals . . . www.thegallupchamber.com . . . . . . . .29Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.southwestnewmexico.org . . . . . . .10,S7,S24Gila National Forest . . .www.southwestnewmexico.org . . . .S21Great American Duck Race . .www.demingduckrace.com . . . . .S8Karl G. Jansky Very Large Array (VLA) www.socorronm.gov . .S4New Mexico Museum of Space History www.alamogordo.com .76,C4Old Zuni MIssion . . . . . . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . . . . . . .35Pancho Villa State Park . . www.demingchamber.com . . . . . .S8Red Rock Balloon Rally . www.redrockballoonrally.com . . . . . .30Rockhound State Park . . www.demingchamber.com . . . . . .S8Shakespeare Ghost Town . .www.lordsburghidalgocounty.net . S9Tour of the Gila . . . . . . . . .www.tourofthegila.com . . . . . . . .S15Trail of the Mountain Spirits National Scenic Byway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.southwestnewmexico.org . . . .S21

Bar/Saloon/LoungeAdobe Bar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www. taosinn.com . . . . .46,59,70Azul Nightclub & Lounge . . www.hotelencanto.com . . . . . . .2,59Del Charro Saloon . . . . .www.innofthegovernors.com . . . .59,62Ivory Tusk Tavern & Restaurant .www.elephantbutteinn.com .59,S6Little Toad Creek Brewery & Distillery www.littletoadcreek.com .59,64Nativo Lobby Bar . . . . . . . . . www.nativolodge.com . . . . . . . .2,59QBar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.hotelabq.com . . . . . . . .2,59Santa Fe Low'n Slow Lowrider Bar . .www.hotelchimayo.com .2,59Secreto Bar & Loggia . . . .www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . . .2,59The Lodge at Santa Fe Hilltop Bar .www.lodgeatsantafe.com .2,59The Palace Restaurant & Saloon .www.palacesantafe.com .59,73Tortilla Flats Bar & Grill . . . . www.flyelpaso.com . . . . . .59,S23

Bed & BreakfastCasitas de Gila Guesthouses www.casitasdegila.com . . . . . . S15Cimarron Rose . . . . . . . . www.cimarronrose.com . . . . . .35,59Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . .37,59Mabel Dodge Luhan House . www.mabeldodgeluhan.com .59,45Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . .40,59Rancho de Chimayo Hacienda www.ranchodechimayo.com 46,59

CarvingsZuni Craftsmen Cooperative . . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . . .35

ChocolatiersChocolate Smith, The . . . .www.chocolatesmith.com . . . . .52,59CG Higgins Confections . . . .www.cghiggins.com . . . . . . .51,59Cocopelli Chocolatier . . . .www.cocopellisantafe.com . . . . .54,59Curious Kumquat . . . . . . .www.curiouskumquat.com . . . . .55,59Diane’s Bakery & Deli .www.dianesrestaurant.com .55,58,59,S15Hester House Candy & Gifts, The . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55,59Kakawa Chocolate House . www.kakawachocolates.com . .53,59

Cities, Chambers & CountiesCity of Alamogordo . . . . . .www.alamorgordo.com . . . . . .C4,76Gallup McKinley Chamber/CVB .www.thegallupchamber.com .29City of Socorro . . . . . . . . . . www.socorronm.gov . . . . . . . . .S5Grant County Tourism .www.southwestnewmexico.org C1,10,S24Lordsburg-Hidalgo Co.Chamber . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.lordsburghidalgocounty.net . . . . .S9Silver City Tourism . . . . . . . www.silvercitytourism.org. . . . .11,S13

ContractorMule Creek Adobe . . . . . .www.mulecreekadobe.com . . . . . .S14Tres Amigos Enterprises . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S20

Convention & Meeting CentersHotel Albuquerque at Old Town . . www.hotelabq.com . . . . .2,59Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces . . . www.hotelencanto.com . . .2,59Hotel St. Francis . . . . . . . . www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . . .2,59Mabel Dodge Luhan House .www.mabeldodgeluhan.com 44,45,59The Lodge at Santa Fe . . . www.lodgeatsantafe.com . . . . . .2,59Dead PawnEllis Tanner Trading Company . . . www.etanner.com . . . . . . .23

EducationWestern New Mexico Universitywww.wnmu.edu . . . . . . .C1,8,13

EntertainmentGallup Inter-Tribal Ceremonial . . . . www.theceremonial.com . . . . .31

Historic Taos Inn . . . . . . . . . . www.taosinn.com . . . . .46,59,70Mimbres Region Arts Council. . .www.mimbresarts.org . . . .S14Red Rock Balloon Rally . . . .ww.redrockballoonrally.com . . . . .30FetishesTurquoise Village . . . . . . .www.turquoisevillage.com . . . . . . . .37GiftsBeeman Jewelry Design . . www.johnbeeman.com . .C2,17,28,C3Casa Nova By Natalie . . . .www.casanovagallery.com . . . . . . . .19Casitas de Gila Guesthouses . . .www.casitasdegila.com . . . .S15Chiricahua Desert Museum .www.chiricahuadesertmuseum.com 14Hester House Candy & Gifts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55,59Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa www.ojospa.com 40,59Pandora . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.pandorasantafe.com . . . . . . . .19Silver City Museum Store www.silvercitymuseum.org . . .13,S12Super Salve . . . . . . . . . . . . www.supersalve.com . . . . . . .S20The Torres Gallery . . . . . . . www.torresgallery.com . . . . . . .3,16GolfButterfield Trail . . . . . . . .www.butterfieldtrailgolf.com . . . . .S23Holiday Inn Express Silver City Golf Packages . . . . . . . . . . . .S12Taos Country Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43Home Health ServicesAngelwings Coordinated Care . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S20Home ProductsCasa Nova By Natalie . . . .www.casanovagallery.com . . . . . . . .19Mule Creek Adobe . . . . . .www.mulecreekadobe.com . . . . . .S14Pandora . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.pandorasantafe.com . . . . . . . .19

JewelryBeeman Jewelry Design . . www.johnbeeman.com . .C2,17,28,C3Casitas de Gila Guesthouses www.casitasdegila.com . . . . . . S15Chiricahua Desert Museumwww.chiricahuadesertmuseum.com .14Ellis Tanner Trading Company www.etanner.com . . . . . . .18,23Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . .37,59Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. . www.joemilo.com .17,22,23,33Richardson’s Trading & Cash Pawn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.richardsontrading.com . .16,24-25The Palace Jewelers at Manitou Galleries www.manitougalleries.com .18The Torres Gallery . . . . . . . www.torresgallery.com . . . . . . .3,16Turquoise Village . . . . . . .www.turquoisevillage.com . . . . . . . .37Zuni Craftsmen Cooperative www.zunitourism.com . . . . . . . . .35

MuseumsAnderson Museum of Contemporary Art . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.roswellamoca.org 15Chiricahua Desert Museum www.chiricahuadesertmuseum.com .14Deming Luna Mimbres Museum . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.lunacountyhistoricalsociety.com . . .15Lordsburg-Hidalgo County Museum. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.lordsburghidalgocounty.net . . . . S9Mineralogical Museum . . . . .www.socorronm.gov . . . . . . . . .S5New Mexico Museum of Space History www.alamogordo.com .76,C4Rex Museum . . . . . . . . . www.thegallupchamber.com . . . . . .29Silver City Museum . . . . www.silvercitymuseum.org . . .13,S12Zuni Visitor and Arts Center . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . . . .35WNMU Museum . . . .www.wnmumuseum.org . . . . .C1,8,13,S24

National Scenic BywaysTrail of the Mountain Spirits National Scenic Byway . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.southwestnewmexico.org . . . . S21

PhotographyLight Language Studio . . . www.lightlanguagestudio.com . . . . . . .16

PotteryEllis Tanner Trading Company .www.etanner.com . . . . . . . .18,23Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. . www.joemilo.com .17,22,23,33Richardson’s Trading & Cash Pawn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.richardsontrading.com . .16,24-25Turquoise Village . . . . . . .www.turquoisevillage.com . . . . . . . .37

Pueblo/TribePueblo of Zuni . . . . . . . . . . www.zunitourism.com . . . . . . . . .35

Real Estate/DevelopmentsButterfield Trail . . . . . . . . www.butterfieldtrailgolf.com . . . . .S23United Country Mimbres Realty . .www.mimbresrealty.com . .11XYZ Ranch Estates . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .S2

RestaurantsArtisan Restaurant . . . . . . . . . www.ojospa.com . . . . .59,40-41Cafe Plazuela & Cantina . . . . www.hotelabq.com . . . . . . . .2,59Carlos & Mickey’s . . . . . . . . www.flyelpaso.com . . . . . .59,S23Chu Chu’s Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37Cowgirl BBQ . . . . . . . . . . .www.cowgirlsantafe.com . . . . . .59,61Coyote Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . .www.coyotecafe.com . . . . . . . .5,59Cristobal’s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.hotelabq.com . . . . . . . .2,59Curious Kumquat . . . . . . .www.curiouskumquat.com . . . . .55.59Del Charro Saloon . . . . .www.innofthegovernors.com . . . .59,62Diane’s Bakery & Deli .www.dianesrestaurant.com . .55.58,59,S15Diane’s Restaurant . . .www.dianesrestaurant.com . .55,58,59,S15Doc Martin's . . . . . . . . www.docmartinsrestaurant.com 46,59,70El Paso Vineyards . . . . . . . www.flyelpaso.com . . . . . . .59,S23Gardunos Restaurant & Cantina . . www.hotelencanto.com . . . .2,59Geronimo Restaurant . . .www.geronimosrestaurant.com . . . . .1,59Ivory Tusk Tavern & Restaurant .www.elephantbutteinn.com . .59,S6Jalsico Cafe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .59,70Joe’s Dining . . . . . . . . . . . .www.joesdining.com . . . . . . .59,70Junction . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.junctionsantafe.com . . . . .59,62Lazy Lizard Bar & Grill . . www.qualityinndeming.com . . . .59,S8Little Toad Creek Brewery & Distillerywww.littletoadcreek.com .59,64Los Cuates New Mexican Restaurant .www.lodgeatsantafe.com .2,59Osteria D’Assisi . . . . . . . . . . . . www.osteriadassisi.com . . . . . . . .57,59Pizzeria Da Lino . . . . . . . . . . . www.pizzeriadalino.com . . . . . . . .57,59Pizzaria Espiritu . . . . . . . . . . .www.pizzeriaespiritu.com . . . . . . .58,59Rancho de Chimayo . . . . www.ranchodechimayo.com . . . .59,72Santa Fe Bar & Grill . . . . . .www.santafebargrill.com . . . . . .59,64Santa Fe Bite . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.santafebite.com . . . . . . . .59,63Spirit Wind Café . . . . . . . . . www.nativolodge.com . . . . . . .2,59Tabla de Los Santos . . . . . www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . . .2,59Tia’s Cocina . . . . . . . . . . . www.hotelchimayo.com . . . . . . .2,59The Compound Restaurant . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.thecompountrestaurant.com . . . .59,68-69The Palace Restaurant & Saloon . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.palacesantafe.com . .59,73Plaza Cafe . . . . . . . . www.santafeplazacafe.com . . . .59,60-61Tortilla Flats Bar & Grill . . . . . . . www.flyelpaso.com . . . . . . .59,S23Vanessie Santa Fe . . . . . . . . .www.vanessiesantafe.com . . . . . . .59,71Zacatecas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . www.zacatecastacos.com . . . . . .59,69Zia Diner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ziadiner.com . . . . . . . . . .59,64

Rugs & WeavingEllis Tanner Trading Company . . . www.etanner.com . . . . .18,23Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. www.joemilo.com . . .17,23,33Richardson’s Trading & Cash Pawn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.richardsontrading.com .16,24-25

RV Parks & CampingRed Rock Park . . . . . . . www.thegallupchamber.com . . . . . .29

Spas & SalonsIvory Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . www.elephantbutteinn.com . . . .59,S6Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs Resort & Spa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.ojospa.com . . . . . . . . . . . .40-41,59

Trading CompanyEllis Tanner Trading Company www.etanner.com . . . . . . .18,23Inn at Halona . . . . . . . . . . . . www.halona.com . . . . . . . .37,59Joe Milo’s White Water Trading Co. www.joemilo.com . . .17,23,33Richardson’s Trading & Cash Pawn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.richardsontrading.com . .16,24-25Turquoise Village . . . . . . .www.turquoisevillage.com . . . . . . . .37

Visitor & Travel CenterDeming Visitor Center . . .www.demingchamber.com . . . . . . .S8Gallup Visitors & Information Center . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .www.thegallupchamber.com . . . . . . .29Silver City Visitor Center . .www.silvercitytourism.org. . . . . . . .S13Socorro Heritage & Visitor Center . .www.socorronm.gov. . . . .S5Zuni Visitor and Arts Center www.zunitourism.com . . . . . . .17,35

WeddingsHotel Albuquerque . . . . . . . . www.hotelabq.com . . . . . . . .2,59Hotel Encanto de Las Cruces . .www.hotelencanto.com . . . .2,59Hotel St. Francis . . . . . . . . www.hotelstfrancis.com . . . . . . .2,59The Lodge at Santa Fe . . .www.lodgeatsantafe.com . . . . . .2,59

Southwest New Mexico and El Paso Texas

Parks andMonuments

FAMOUS WARRIORSOUTLAWS AND

LAWMEN

SHOPPINGDININGGALLERIES&MUSEUMS

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com82

Manufactured Home Subdivision 5 Acre Lots with Roads and PowerHighway 180 East off XYZ Ranch Road • Silver City, New Mexico • 575-388-1951

83

SOUTHWESTNewMexicoTHE COMMUNITIES,

FAMOUS OUTLAWS, SHOPPING, DINING,GALLERIES&MUSEUMS

Southwest New Mexico, to include its adopted city of El Paso, is a rugged region packed full of history,beauty, wildlife, renewable energy and space age industry. From border cities and meandering rivers to pinecovered wilderness peaks, the diverse area is crisscrossed with visitor opportunities that attract people fromevery segment of the population.Encompassing Southwest New Mexico and far west Texas, the region includes the mountain commu-

nities of Silver City, Glenwood and Reserve, the Interstate-25 communities of Socorro, Truth orConsequences and Elephant Butte, and the Interstate-10 communities of Lordsburg, Deming, Las Crucesand El Paso.Any of these locations can serve as your base for exploration – it’s just a matter of pinpointing the niche

that best serves your vacation priorities. The articles that follow will help you make that determination.Or you can simply drive a loop that covers the entire region – that will be the most memorable trip of all.

this page: Spaceport America with itsiconic architecture is the spot wheresuborbital passenger space flights will belaunched. It’s 45 miles north of Las Cruces.Tours available. 575-373-6110

OUR COVERSouthwest New Mexico has an alluring mixof rugged wilderness vistas and a challengingarray of water sports, acclaimed bird sanctu-aries and thought-provoking artifacts fromancient cultures, historic forts and missionsand a cast of unsavory old west characters,space-age ports and deep space telescopes,eclectic shops and mouth-watering eateries.You will encounter delightful and intriguingexperiences in every corner of the region thatshould include browsing through galleries inhistoric Silver City (cover photo).

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2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com84

Socorro continues to gain international prominence with its Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge,the center for the National Radio Astronomy Observatory (NRAO) and San Miguel Parish built on El CaminoReal National Historic Trail in 1615. A notable destination for golfers, rockhounds, nature photographers,campers and hikers, the town offers unique experiences found within an hour’s drive in any direction.At the center of town, the plaza offers a relaxing venue for shoppers. The historic San Miguel church is only

a block away and a few blocks further on the campus of New Mexico Institute of Mining and Technology, amuseum houses an impressive mineral collection dubbed Coronado’s Treasure Chest.From Socorro, visitors travel west through historic Magdalena to the high Plains of San Augustin and the

Very Large Array that coordinates large dish antennas to form a radio telescope 22 miles in diameter. Travelingsouth from Socorro, visitors cross the 57,000-acre Bosque del Apache refuge, where thousands of migratingbirds pause daily for food and rest during late fall. Continuing south, the ruins of Fort Craig can be exploredand El Camino Real International Heritage Center can be toured. The Salinas Pueblo Missions NationalMonument lies to the northeast of Socorro – impressive remnants of Spanish colonization.

this page: Migrating waterfowl recuperate at Bosquedel Apache NationalWildlife Refuge. opposite:A radio telescope, one of 27at the Very Large Array,maps deep space andsearches for life.

SocorroBosque del Apache National Wildlife Preserve&Karl G. Jansky Very Large Array (VLA)

"Intriguing locale for astronomers and birders"

85PARKS & MONUMENTS SOCORRO

SOCORRO COUNTY EVENTSApr Karl G. Jansky Very Large

Array Open House. 575-835-7243

Jun Socorro Open Golf Tournament. 575-835-5335

Oct SocorroFest Music Festival. Historic Plaza 575-835-8927 www.socorrofest.com

Enchanted Skies Star Party. 575-835-8927Karl G. Jansky Very Large Array OpenHouse. 575-835-7243Nov Festival of the Cranes, Bosque

del Apache NWR. 575-835-1828www.friendsofthebosque.org/craneDec Luminarias on the Plaza.575-835-ARTS

For more information on any of theabove events please call theSocorro Visitors Center at 575-835-8927 or visitwww.socorronm.gov.

ATTRACTIONSBosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge.Visitor center, auto tour, hiking and year-round birding.16 miles south of Socorro. 575-835-1282 www.friendsofthebosque.org Cibola National Forest–Magdalena Dist. Made upof the largest collection of historic ranchlands in NewMexico. 575-854-2281El Camino Real International Heritage Center.575-854-3600 www.elcaminoreal.orgMineral Museum.More than 15,000 specimens. 575-835-5420 www.geoinfo.nmt.edu/museums NM Institute of Mining and Technology. 801 LeroyPl., on campus, 1-800-428-8324 www.nmt.eduNew Mexico Tech Performing Arts Series. Call forschedule. 575-835-5688 www.nmtpas.org

Plains of San Agustin. The largest and highestgrasslands in North America. 866-854-3217

Old Kelly Mine. Mine ruins and many wonderfulspecimens for rockhounds. 3 miles south ofMagdalena. 866-854-3217 www.magdalena-nm.comTrinity Site. Site of world’s first atomic bomb explosion.Open on first Saturday in April. www.wsmr.army.milThe Box Car Museum. Local history, artifacts of WildWest, mining, cattle drives, circa 1885-1930. Locatednext to AT&SF Railroad Depot. 108 N. Main St.Magdalena 575-854-2261 www.magdalena-nm.comKarl G. Jansky Very Large Array-National RadioAstronomy Observatory. Visitor center, self-guidedtours, world’s largest radio-telescope array on thePlains of San Agustin. 575-835-7243. www.nrao.edu

LOCATION Socorro is located at the junction of I-25 andUS60, the rest stop for historic travelers andmigratory birds. Magdalena is located on US60between Socorro and the Karl G. Jansky VeryLarge Array.

MORE INFORMATIONSocorro Heritage and Visitors Center(575) 835-8927 tourism@socorronm.govwww.Facebook.com/SocorroNM (VisitSocorro, New Mexico)

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ExperienceBird & Wildlife Refuges

Hiking, Biking & Riding Trails

Historic Re-enactments

Walking Tours

Outdoor Recreation Areas

ExploreForts & Ghost Towns

Gem & MineralMuseum

Observatories & Star Parties

Ancient Ruins

Historic Sites

EnjoyBEST Green Chile

Southwest Gifts

NM Tech Golf Course

Performance Arts

Fine Art Galleries

Year-round Events

575-835-8927 • www.socorronm.org

Elephant Butte Lake with nearly 200 miles of shoreline is the state’s premier water sports destination, attractingalmost a million visitors annually. The clean, sandy beaches are ideal for swimming and camping and the lake offersall manner of boating, water skiing, scuba diving, jet skiing and parasailing. For anglers, the waters are stocked withmany species of game fish including largemouth and smallmouth black bass, white bass, striper, crappie, perch, wall-eye, catfish, sunfish and bluegill. Other activities around the lake include hiking, birding and special events includ-ing a hot air balloon regatta, skydiving and drag boat events.Resort facilities, restaurants and the City of Elephant Butte, spread across a hillside overlooking this desert phenom-

enon. Guide services, marinas and watercraft rentals are offered year round.

Elephant Butte LakeState Park

TRUTH OR CONSEQUENCES

"New Mexico's premiere boating destination"

ELEPHANT BUTTE EVENTSJul Independence Day Fireworks

Display 877-744-4900Aug American Bass Tournament

575-740-7320Sep Annual Celebration

877-744-4900 Balloon Regatta 877-744-4900

Oct Casino Night 575-744-4708Dec Luminaria Beach Walk and

Floating Light Parade877-744-4900

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com86

estled in the midst of the pristine desert of New Mexico, the Elephant Butte Innand Spa overlooks picturesque Elephant Butte Lake, New Mexico's largest lake.We offer AAA, AARP, and have government, military and corporate rates. Aftera busy day, relax in our outdoor heated swimming pool.

We are a pick-up point for Spaceport America tours. Contact us for current tour schedules. Whether for a retreat, banquet, reunion, wedding, reception, or a business meeting, let uscater to your every need. Elephant Butte: “A Diamond in the Desert”.

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Elephant Butte Inn & Spa“An Enchanting Retreat from the Ordinary”

THE IVORY SPAThe Ivory Spa provides services in an intimate two room setting with anemphasis on your personal attention.Our staff consists of highly qualified individuals including an in-house esthetician, and massage therapist. Our organic facial and body skin care lines used in treatments can be purchased in our Gift Store. Spa packages available.

LOCATION 401 Highway 195 • Elephant Butte, NMPick-Up Point for Spaceport America Tours

MORE INFORMATION575.744.5431 • www.ElephantButteInn.comGolf packages available.

BOSQUE DEL APACHE NATIONALWILDLIFE REFUGEYear-round birding. Visitor center, auto tour and hik-ing. 16 miles south of Socorro. 575-838-2120.

CITY OF ROCKS STATE PARKA city of giant monoliths protruding unexpectedlyfrom the desert floor is located halfway between SilverCity and Deming, 5 miles east of US180. The park hasa visitor center, hiking trails, and a night sky observato-ry. Call for the observatory schedule. 575-536-9461.

ELEPHANT BUTTE LAKE STATE PARKNew Mexico’s largest lake offers opportunities forboating, fishing, and swimming. Landlovers can findhiking trails, birding, and year-round events. Historybuffs will love the views of the 1916 dam and historicdistrict at Dam Site Recreation Area. 575-744-5421.

FORT SELDENAn 1800s cavalry fort that was utilized by the BuffaloSoldiers. A year-round visitor center and living historydemonstrations on weekends May throughSeptember. Nineteenth century military encampmentssecond Saturdays monthly year-round. 575-526-8911GILA CLIFF DWELLINGS NAT’L MON.Follow the “Trail of the Mountain Spirits NationalScenic Byway” north from Silver City along NM15 orNM35 to the national monument visitor center.Printed matter and a movie provide information aboutthe 13th century inhabitants of this pristine area. TheCliff Dwellings are accessible by a short, well-main-tained trail. 575-536-9344.OLD MESILLAA picturesque and historic Mexican/Old West plazais surrounded by a stately church and 1800s build-ings filled with fabulous shopping and diningopportunities. Additional shopping plazas with acharm all their own are continuing to expand alongAvenida de Mesilla. 575-524-3262THE RIO GRANDENew Mexico’s lifeline flows through the Old Westcommunities of Socorro, T or C and Las Cruces. Itcontributed water and food for early traders alongEl Camino Real and now supports industry, agricul-ture, recreation and individual needs for NewMexico’s central corridor. Visit the El Camino RealInternational Heritage Center off I-25 at exit 115.ROCKHOUND STATE PARKRock specimens scattered across the slopes of theFlorida (Flor-eeda) Mountains simply offer a greatexcuse to explore the area. Rockhounds meet regularly in the area southeast of Deming fordemonstrations, sales and trading. 575-546-6782.PANCHO VILLA STATE PARKExtensive historical exhibits depicting GeneralPancho Villa’s raid on Columbus, New Mexico in1916 and his pursuit by General “Black Jack”Pershing. It was the first use of motorized vehiclesand airplanes for military purposes. 575-531-2711VERY LARGE ARRAY RADIO TELESCOPETwenty-seven dish-shaped antennas are spreadacross three 13-mile tracks, one of which crosses US60between Socorro and Reserve. A visitor center explainsthe mission of the project sponsored by the NationalRadio Astronomy Observatory. 575-388-8201.

Parks&Monuments

87PARKS & MONUMENTS GILA CLIFF DWELLINGS NAT’L MONUMENT

LOCATION The Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument islocated 44 miles north of Silver City on NM15.

MORE INFORMATIONThe Gila Cliff Dwellings Visitor Center (575) 536-9461 www.nps.gov/gicl.Murray Ryan Visitor Center (575) 538-5555www.southwestnewmexico.orgGrant County Business and Conference Center(575) 574-0070 • www.grantcountynm.com

A lush, secluded canyon marks the path. A shady brook runs year round from theheart of a vast mountain wilderness, once called home by an ancient people. It is hereat the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument that visitors can trace the footsteps ofthe Mogollon culture that lived in the high sheltered dwellings nearly 700 years ago.Their lives were consumed by making tools and pottery, farming, gathering nuts andberries, hunting and fishing.Though the Mogollon people had lived in the surrounding area for many centuries,

the cliff dwellings themselves were built in the late 13th century. Within 10 years, thetribe had constructed 42 rooms inside six natural caves. Some rooms served ceremoni-al purposes, while others were used as living and storage spaces.The national monument, which includes a visitor center, campgrounds, and a small

interpretive center, is located at the northern end of a 100 mile paved loop road thatsplits the nation’s first wilderness area.

Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument

SILVER CITY, DEMING & TRUTH OR CONSEQUENCES

"Home to an ancient culture"

Deming and Luna County have bragging rights to mild weather and lots of sun-shine. Outdoor enthusiasts enjoy a list of activities that includes golf, hiking, rock

hounding, birding and the Great American Duck Race. As the region with thenation’s most abundant sunlight, the county has also become a showplace for

renewable energy – solar, wind and an impressive algae farm for produc-ing the next generation of fuel oil.Savvy gem and mineral collectors are well aware of Rockhound State

Park, the local rock shops and relatedevents. The park offers a visitor center and a wide

range of amenities for campers, hikers and birders as wellas a botanical and native pollinator garden. SpringCanyon, a secluded day use area where the birding issaid to be especially good, is an extension of

Rockhound. Two other popular state parks include his-toric Pancho Villa State Park near the Mexican borderand City of Rocks, a short drive north.Visitors can tour New Mexico’s largest vineyards and

premier wineries in Deming, and enjoy low-impact aero-bic activity on a walking tour of the historic downtowndistrict filled with galleries, antique shops, coffee shops,an impressive museum and friendly people.

DemingCity of Rocks , Rockhound & Pancho Villa State Parks

"Plentiful sunshine and gorgeous geodes"

this page: City of Rocks State Park north of Deming includes camp and picnicsites. Inset: Statue of Pancho Villa in Palomas, Mexico commemorates therevolutionary general’s raid on Columbus, New Mexico south of Deming.

LUNA COUNTY EVENTS Mar Camp Furlong Day at Pancho Villa

State Park in Columbus. 575-531-2711 Rockhound Roundup. 575-543-8915

Aug Great American Duck Race.888-345-1125 www.demingduckrace.com

Oct St. Clair Wine Festival. 575-546-1179www.StClairVineyards.com

Dec Christmas Light Parade in downtown Deming. 575-546-2674 Holiday Lights at Rockhound State Park.575-546-6182

ATTRACTIONSCity of Rocks State Park. Rock formationsformed over 34 million years ago during a vol-canic eruption. Overnight campsites; visitor cen-ter; botanical garden; wildlife; hiking; and more.Located 30 miles NW of Deming on US 180 andNM 61. 575-536-2800Deming Luna Mimbres Museum. Minerals,gems, frontier military history and Mimbresexhibits. 301 S. Silver. 575-546-2382.www.DemingLunaMimbresMuseum.comLuna Rossa Winery. 575-544-1160.www.LunaRossaWinery.comRockhound State Park. Collect up to 15 lbs ofrocks. The 250-acre park has picnic facilities;over-night camping; hiking trails; wildlife; andexhibits on local history of Buffalo Soldiers,Apache Indians and more. 14 miles southeast ofDeming. 575-546-6182Spring Canyon State Park. Realize a serenebeauty and complete sense of isolation.Picnicking facilities. Ibex, wild goats from Iran,may be encountered. 575-546-6182www.cityofdeming.orgSt. Clair Winery & Visitor Center. 575-546-1179 www.stclairvineyards.comPancho Villa State Park. Located on the siteof old Camp Furlong where Villa raided the U.S.This 61-acre park offers a massive desertbotanical garden, camping and museum/visitorcenter. 575-531-2711U.S. and Mexico Port of Entry. 24-hourcrossing Columbus/Palomas. 3 mi. south ofColumbus. 575-531-2686Publisher’s Note: Documents are required for returningto the United States. Check with U.S. Customs beforeleaving the U.S. All items purchased in Mexico must be declared when returning tothe U.S. and Mexican law strictly forbids carrying gunsor ammunition into Mexico.

LOCATION Deming is located at the junction ofInterstate 10, US180 and NM11, next toRockhound State Park and 34 milesnorth of the U.S. border with Mexico.

MORE INFORMATION Deming Visitor Center575-567-1962www.exploredeming.comdemingvisitor@gmail.com

Best Hotels in New Mexico

RATED ONE

OF THE

4600 E. Pine St.Deming, NM 88030

Off I-10 @ Exit 85

www.QualityInn.com

575-546-2661

• Free Breakfast Buffet• Completely renovated withall new Serta Perfect Beds

• Relax in the largest andnicest courtyard in town

• Outdoor swimming pool• Kids 12 and under stayand eat free

• Pet friendly • Suites with large jacuzzi tubs

• Free High Speed Internet• Exterior room entrances

Lazy Lizard Bar & GrillServing a tasteful selection ofgreat food in our comfortabledining room. Relax and watch thegame on three TVs while enjoyingyour favorite cocktail in the bar.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com88

89PARKS & MONUMENTS LORDSBURG

LordsburgShakespeare National Historic Site"Gunslingers, museums and rare birds"

Offering remnants of the old west, theLordsburg Hidalgo County Museum captures

the city’s beginnings as a railroad, agri-culture and mining town, highlights thelanding of Charles Lindbergh during his

cross-county flight and displays a nationally-recognized collection of prisoner of war memo-rabilia from a nearby World War II POW camp.

Just two miles south of town sitsShakespeare ghost town, a National HistoricSite once roamed by the likes of Billy theKid, Curly Bill Brocius, Russian Bill, JohnRingo, Sandy King, Jim Hughes and theClantons. The 1800s mining camp and

Butterfield Trail stage stop boldly clingsto its rip-roaring past.

Southwest of Lordsburg in the heart ofNew Mexico’s boot heel, TheChiricahua Desert Museum featuresone of the largest collections of liveendangered reptiles in existence,

Tell Hicks Wildlife prints, artifacts and NativeAmerican jewelry, as well as their own ECO herpeto-logical books and clothing. The village of Rodeo show-cases the work of local artisans at McKasson’sStudio/Gallery and the Chiricahua Guild and ArtGallery in the old mission church. North of Lordsburg, the Lower Gila Box Wilderness

Study Area provides access to petroglyphs and some170 species of birds.

HIDALGO COUNTYEVENTSJan Annual Quilt Show.

575-542-9646Feb Cowboy Poetry

Fiesta.575-542-9258

Jul LordsburgJuly 4thActivities &5K Run.575-542-3421Rodeo 4th of JulyCelebration.575-557-2295

Aug Hidalgo County Fair,Rancho De Hidalgo,Parade & Carnival.575-542-9291

Sep St Joseph's ChurchBazaar. 575-542-3268

Oct Discover Hidalgo.575-542-9864

Nov Hidalgo LibraryFestival & Book Sale.575-542-9646Rodeo Mixed Nuts Arts& Crafts Show.575-557-2336

Dec Lordsburg LightParade 575-542-9864Moonlight Madness575-542-8844

Contact the Lordsburg - Hidalgo CountyChamber to check on events and dates, aschanges may occur throughout the year.575-542-9864 • Fx: 575-542-9059 email:lordsburgcoc@aznex.netwww.lordsburghidalgocounty.net •www.hidalgocounty.org

ATTRACTIONSLordsburg Hidalgo Museum. This OldWest museum documents the early historyin which the nearby ghost towns took root.M-F 1-5 PM. 710 E 2nd St. 575-542-9086.Rodeo. On the NM-AZ border in southernHidalgo Co., Rodeo is a small art center withthe Chiricahua Guild & Gallery located in anold Mission Church, and the ChiricahuaDesert Museum with live reptile displays, agift shop and gallery. The area offers facili-ties for travelers. Redrock Wildlife Area. Located on theGila River and is operated by the NM Game& Fish Dept. All animals are protected withinthe refuge even during hunting seasons. Themain project at the reserve is the breedingand growth of the Desert Big-Horn Sheep.Shakespeare Ghost Town. 2.5 milessouthwest of Lordsburg. Open monthly forguided tours. Call for schedule. www.shake-speareghostown.com 575-542-9034 Peloncillo Mountains Wilderness. Raggedand rugged, the historic Butterfield StageRoute forms the southern boundary.

LOCATIONLordsburg is located at the junction of I-10, US70 and NM90 near the ButterfieldTrail stage stop of Shakespeare.

MORE INFORMATION Lordsburg Hidalgo County Chamber ofCommerce (575) 542-9864www.LordsburgHidalgoCounty.netemail: lordsburgcoc@aznex.net

this page: Periodic tours,reenactments and blacksmithdemonstrations are highlightsof Shakespeare ghost townby Lordsburg.

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• Beautiful Landscapes

• Gorgeous Weather

• Historic Ghost Towns

• Art Communities

• Year-Round Activities

• Photo Opportunities

• Birding Habitats

For more information, contact:

Lordsburg - Hidalgo County

Chamber of Commerce

575-542-9864

lordsburgcoc@aznex.net

206 Main Street, Lordsburg, NM 88045

LordsburgHidalgoCounty.net

90SECTION COMMUNITY

Shopping,Dining & GalleriesMuseumsSouthwestern New Mexico isn’t just the old west anymore. The area is rich in history but

also in fabulous new art, culinary adventures and award-winning restaurants.Art has a long and exciting history beginning with the amazing black and white designs on

Mimbreno pottery. Petroglyphs can be found throughout the hills and valleys and provide ahistory of day-to-day activity of early residents. Flash forward to today. Artists from around the country have discovered

southern New Mexico’s great weather and sumptuous light and have madethis area their home. They have opened galleries and offer every thing frompaintings; fine photography to hand-made jewelry, pottery, and fashions. Award winning restaurants dot the culinary landscape. The “real

food” movement being embraced by southwestern New Mexicorestaurants is surprising and delighting locals and visitors alike. Many

WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH STEWART l PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPH BURGESS

Southwest New Mexico Traveler ispublished annually by ZiaPublishing Corp. 116 McKinneyRoad, P.O. Box 1248, Silver City, NM88062, 575-388-4444, info@ziapub-lishing.com, www.ziapublishing.com.President & Managing Director, TerriMenges Vice President & PhotoJournalist, Joseph Burgess StaffAccountant, Arlyn Cooley Designers,Debra Sutton, Terri Menges Writing,Joseph Burgess except where noted.Photography, Joseph Burgess, exceptwhere noted. Contributing Photogra-phers, Lynn Janes, LeAnne Knudsen,Debra Sutton, Judy Wuthrich. CourtesyPhotos, Advertising Sales, LeAnneKnudsen Distribution, LeAnne Knudsen.Southwest New Mexico Traveler is a supplement to NewMexico Traveler and is manufactured and printed in theUnited States of America. ©Zia Publishing Corp., 2014.All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part with-out permission of the publisher is prohibited. All submis-sions of editorial or photography are only accepted with-out risk to the publisher for loss or damage. Every effortwas made to ensure accuracy in the information provid-ed. The publisher assumes no responsibility or liabilityfor errors, changes or omissions.

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com90

91SHOPPING, DINING, GALLERIES & MUSEUMS

this page: The works of modernpotters grace galleries and shops inevery Southwest New Mexicocommunity, while collections ofintriguing pottery and artifactsfrom the ancient Mimbres andCasas Grandes cultures drawvisitors to museums throughoutthe region. A leisurely trip thatincludes the coffee shops andaward-winning restaurantscreates a vacation worthy ofsharing with friends.

restaurants are providing a slow dining experience where the food preparedis purchased from farm and ranches within the area.

The local Mexican and New Mexican cuisine is still a delicious staplebut you still have to choose -- red or green?

The coming together of Native American, Mexican and the Anglotraditions creates a very special shopping experience. The fun andadventure of shopping Southwestern New Mexico really comes alivewhen you explore the plethora of galleries, small specialty stores and

museum shops throughout the area.

Crossing the state’s southwest corner on Interstate 10, one would be hardpressed to imagine that just up the road lies a historic mining com-munity packed with museums, galleries, coffee shops, nick-knacksand a back door accessing three million acres of national forest.

Silver City has so much to offer, one almost overlooks its pri-mary qualities – a friendly, small-town atmosphere withgreat weather.The buildings and homes reflect its copper, silver and

gold mining heritage as do the nearby head frames and alarge open pit where mining began over 200 years ago.The Silver City Museum and gift shop in the historicH.B. Ailman home and the JW Art Gallery and Museum

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.comS12

Silver City& "Home of the NAN Ranch Collection"

SILVER CITY 93

this page: The Silver CityMuseum is housed in the H.B. Ailman home built in thelate 1800s.

Holiday Inn Express - Silver City1103�Superior�St.Silver�City,�NM�88061(575)�538-2525�•�1-800-HOLIDAYwww.hiexpress.com

Book a Silver City

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One round of 18 holes and rental of onegolf cart for two people with room.

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2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com94

in Hurley breathe life into the rough andtumble eras at the turn of the last century.Equally intriguing are the prehistoric peo-

ples who occupied the area in pit-housecommunities and cliff dwellings. WesternNew Mexico University Museum displaysincredible collections of artifacts and finely-painted pottery and serves as a research cen-ter for the Mimbres Culture. Almost totallysurrounded by the nation’s first designatedwilderness, the Gila Cliff Dwellings NationalMonument and Visitor Center allow visitorsto experience the rugged region that sup-ported these early inhabitants.Silver City hosts its own hiking and biking

trails with hundreds of miles of trails criss-crossing the forested regions. Camp sites aremanaged by the forest service near the cliffdwellings, the Gila River, Lake Roberts andnear mountain brooks. Wildlife and birdingopportunities are plentiful.In addition to historic lodging and a vari-

ety of restaurant fares that contribute to apositive experience, the city hosts eventsthat draw national attention. The five-dayTour of the Gila bicycle stage race attractsinternational racers. The Silver City BluesFestival and the Pickamania Blue GrassFestival include big-name bands and theWild, Wild West Pro Rodeo touts a largepurse. Add to those a HummingbirdFestival, Gila River Festival, Clay Festival,Mariachi Workshop, Fort BayardCelebration, Gem and Mineral Show mar-kets and tours… well, there you have it – agreat little place to have a great big time!

LOCATION Silver City is located at the junction of US180and NM90, on the Continental Divide and thesouthern edge of the Gila National Forest.

MORE INFORMATION Murray Ryan Visitor Center(575) 538-5555 • www.silvercitytourism.orgMimbres Region Arts Council (575) 538-25051(888) 758-7289 www.mimbresarts.orgGrant County Business and Conference Center(575) 574-0070 • www.grantcountynm.com

CONVENIENCE &COMFORT

Combined withPremium Amenities

Your ideal homebase in beautiful, culturally diverse Silver City for both vacation

and business trips.• FREE hot breakfast bar

• 100% non-smoking hotel

• Wired/Wireless High-speed internet

• Fitness center

• Golf packages • Pets allowed in select rooms

NEW FOR 2014• HEAD-TO-TOE RENOVATION • OUTDOOR SWIMMING POOL

1103 Superior St. • Silver City NM 88061

575.538.2525 • 1-800-HOLIDAYwww.hiexpress.com

Celebrating 114 Years

Located in the downtown historic district.

106 W. Broadway • Silver City, NM 88061575-388-1811 • www.silvercitypalacehotel.com

Visit Ol West Gallery & Mercantile next door.

Reminiscent of a small hotelin the European Tradition.Reminiscent of a small hotelin the European Tradition.

• Affordable Rate • 18 Rooms & Suites• Continental Breakfast • Free Wi-Fi • Cable TV• Special Meeting & Event Room

...the building block used to create a comfortable, time-tested,beautiful, southwestern home or patio. Cool in summer, warm

in winter, rounded walls naturally embrace your lifelike no other building material.

Adobe is the perfect passivesolar partner.

Stop by our new showroom at

258 Old Arenas Valley Road, Arenas Valley, NM (just south of Silver City on Hwy. 180 East).

Or call to arrange a visit to our production yard in Mule Creek.

547 Highway 78, Mule Creek, NM

95SILVER CITY

ATTRACTIONSAldo Leopold Vista. Picnic and wilderness interpretive site, 6miles north of Buckhorn. Big Ditch Park. Formed when flood lowered Main St. 55 feet. Bill Evans Lake. Fishing & primitive camping, 12 mi. south of Cliff.Fort Cobre. A � scale replica erected in Pinos Altos of an1804 fort that protected the Santa Rita copper mine.Fort Bayard. U.S. Infantry post built in 1863. HousedBuffalo Soldiers. 10 miles east of Silver City.Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument. Cliff dwelling ruinsfrom the 13th century. 44 miles north of Silver City. 575-536-9461Gila National Forest/Silver City Ranger District. 3005 E.Camino del Bosque. 575-388-8201. www.fs.fed.us/r3/gila.

Hearst Church. Seasonal museum and art gallery. Built in1898 with Hearst newspaper empire money. In Pinos Altos, 6miles north of Silver City.Kneeling Nun. Natural monolith resembling a praying nun. 15mi. E. of Silver City at Santa Rita mine.Lake Roberts. Camping, trout fishing, hummingbird banding,birding and stargazing. 28 miles north of Silver City. 575-536-3206

Lightfeather Hot Spring. Near Gila Cliff Dwellings VisitorCenter. 30 minute walk includes 2 river crossings. 575-536-9461

Mimbres Region Arts Council. Scheduled events heldthroughout the year. 575-758-7289. www.mimbresarts.org

Old Hurley Company Store. One of the first buildings inHurley - supplied miners and their families, housed the ChinoMine payroll office and later served as a department store.Pinos Altos Melodrama Theater. Adjacent to the BuckhornSaloon in the Pinos Altos Opera House. Great fun! Originalmelodramas. Call for schedule. 575-388-3848Royal Scepter Mineral Museum. Rock shop, jewelry andgifts. 1805 Little Walnut. 575-538-9001. www.RoyalScepter.comSan Vicente Art Walks. Self-guided gallery and studio tourwithin walking distance in downtown Silver City. Call for map.1-800-548-9378Silver City Museum. Area history, Indian artifacts, miningexhibits and Victorian furnishings. 312 W. Broadway. 575-388-5721. www.silvercitymuseum.orgTrail of the Mountain Spirits National Scenic Byway.Loops north on NM15 to Gila Cliff Dwellings Nat’l. Monument,southeast on NM35, and west on NM152 and US180.Turkey Creek. Primitive trout stream northeast of Gila, NM.Western New Mexico University Museum. Local and natu-ral history including the Eisele Collection of PrehistoricSouthwestern Pottery and Artifacts, the world’s largest perma-nent exhibit of Mimbres pottery. 1000 W. College. 575-538-6386. www.wnmu.edu/univ/ museum.html

GRANT COUNTY EVENTSJan MRAC Indie Folk Series 575-538-2505Feb Chocolate Fantasia 575-538-2505Mar MRAC Indie Folk Series 575-538-2505Apr Historic Ft. Bayard Walking Tour.

575-956-3294May Tour of the Gila 575-590-2612

www.tourofthegila.comDowntown Expo 575-534-1700www.silvercitymainstreet.comSilver City Blues Festival 575-538-2505www.mimbresarts.org

Jun Wild, Wild West Pro Rodeo. 575-538-5560www.silvercityprorodeo.com

Jul Independence Day Festivities. 575-538-3785 SC Museum Ice Cream Social. 575-538-5921Big Ditch Day. 575-534-1700

Aug The Silver City CLAY Festival. 575-538-5560www.clayfestival.comRun to Copper Country Car Show. 575-538-5560www.coppercountrycruisers.comSignal Peak Challenge Mountain Bike Race. 575-388-3222

Sep San Vicente Artists Art Fair. 575-534-4269artfair@silvercityartists.orgGem & MIneral Show. 575-538-5560Cliff, Gila Grant County Fair. 575-538-3785 Pickamania!575-538-2505 www.mimbresarts.orgGila River Festival 575-538-8078www.gilaconservation.orgFort Bayard Days. 575-388-4477 www.fortbayard.orgRed Hot Children’s Fiesta 575-388-1198Southwest Festival of the Written Wordwww.swwordfiesta.org

Oct RED DOT Studio & Gallery Walk.575-313-9631 www.silvercitygalleries.com

Nov Annual Lighted Christmas Parade.575-534-1700 www.silvercitymainstreet.com Fiber Arts Festival. 575-538-5733 www.fiberartscollective.org

Dec Tamal Fiesta y Más. 575-538-1337www.tamalfiestaymas.orgVictorian Christmas Evening. 575-538-5921

above: Tour of the GilaDowntown Criterium inhistoric Silver City.below: BootlegProphets performat Silver City’sPicamania!

Fine Dinin�Live Entertainment

Fine Wine • Beer • Steaks • Seafood

Special EventsSee our Website

Tues - Fri 11am-10pmSat & Sun 9am -10pm

510 N. BULLARD575.538.8722

DianesRestaurant.comdianesrestaurant@gmail.com

find us on facebook

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com96

Desert Ambianceby Molly RamollaWax casein temperaon canvas.Molly Ramolla’s galleryhouses her unique one-of-a-kind imaginary creations.

Molly Ramolla Gallery & Custom Framing307 N. Texas St.Silver City, NM 88061575.538.5538ramollaart.com

Harvest Shamanby Mark Bowen

Patinated steel plate64"h x 15"w

Mark Bowen’s metalsculptures along withfine art, jewelry andaccessories, pottery,art tiles, and ethnic apparel are featuredat The Raven’s Nest

on Yankie Street.

The Raven’s Nest106 W. Yankie St.

Silver City, NM 88061575.534.9323

Yellow Brick Roadby Lois DuffyAcrylic on canvas cubes32"h x 25"w x 9"dLois Duffy’s studio isopen to visitors on Saturdays when the public has the opportunity to see herlarge thought provoking surrealist and realist contemporary paintings.

Lois Duffy Studio211-C N. Texas St.Silver City, NM 88061575.313.9631loisduffy@live.comloisduffy.com

Storm Over the Tuckamoresby Carlene Roters, Oil on canvas, 36"h x 36"w

Ursa Minor Gallery and Blue Dome’s contemporary art and fine craftartists are known for their unique style and excellent craftsmanship.

Blue Dome’s, of Bear Mountain Lodge, Ursa Minor GalleryThe Little Blue Box of Eccentricities

303 N. Texas St., Silver City, NM 88061575.534.8671 • ursaminorgallery.com • bluedomegallery.com

SILVER CITY

Exclusively

97EXCLUSIVELY SILVER CITY

Pottery Vessel Hand thrown and sculpted by Miles Roberts

Alabaster Pinto Horse Carvingby Harold Davidson, NavajoTatiana Maria Fine Art features an enchanting collection ofregional art, jewelry, and home furnishings.

Tatiana Maria Fine Art & Southwest Furniture305 & 307 N. Bullard St. • Silver City, NM 88061575.388.4426 • tmkgallery3@gmail.com

Cougar Canyon Ladder Ranchby Elli Sorensen , Oil on canvas, 30"h x 40"wSeedboat Gallery represents respected and

renowned US artists and craftsmen.

Seedboat Center for the Arts214 W. Yankie St. • Silver City, NM 88061

575.534.1136 • seedboatgallery.com

The Three Amigosby William Lloyd

Carved moose antlerOriginal hand carvedantler art, sculpture,custom knife work

and Damascus knivesand swords by Williamand Elizabeth Lloyd.

Lloyd Studios306 W. Broadway

Silver City, NM 88061303.378.0926

lloydstudios.com

Ancient Marks: Archaic Pictographs, New Mexico - 120613.2by Anthony Howell, Fine Art PhotographyAnthony Howell's photographic images document the prehistory of New Mexico, often dating to circa 8,000 B.C.

Anthony Howell Studio200 W. Market St. • Silver City, NM 88061By appointment • 575.574.2827 • anthonyhowell.com

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com98

A Convocation ofPolitic Crowsby Phillip ParottiWoodcut print 1/15,9"h x 9"wLeyba & Ingalls ARTScarries the finest in art supplies, framing,and art for the discriminating collec-tor.

Leyba & Ingalls ARTS315 N. Bullard St.Silver City, NM 88061575.388.5725leybaingallsarts.com

Turquoise Trailby Joseph WadeOil on canvas, 48"h x 60"wJoseph Wade is owner, custom picture framer, and featured painter at JWArt Gallery known for its fine art, bronze and wooden sculptures, andmonoprints.

JW Art Gallery99 Cortez Ave. • Hurley, NM 88043575.537.0300 • gallery@jwartgallery.com • jwartgallery.com

Mogollonby Victoria ChickAcrylic on canvas, 78"h x 51"wVictoria Chick is a contemporary painter focusedon southwest landscapes and animal subjects.

Victoria ChickBy appointment • Silver City Area760.533.1897 • victoriachick.com

Juniper Cracksby Christopher SaxmanFine Art PhotographyThe Fierro Canyon

Gallery, located in theHistoric Mining District,focuses on fine art andAbstract Photography.

Fierro Canyon GalleryPO Box 87

Hanover, NM 88041575.537.4924

fierrocanyongallery.com

SILVER CITY

Exclusively

Billy the Kid was a bad boy whose life ended by the age of 19 or 20. The Kid’smother, Catherine, married William Antrim in Santa Fe and the couple, with Billyand his brother Joseph, then settled in Silver City in 1873. The Kid was first arrested

in Silver City for stealing laundry in 1875 but escaped jail and began the life of a fugitive. Acabin donated by Ron Howard sits near the site of the Antrim home in Silver City.Following the Lincoln County War, Billy the Kid was tried for murder in Mesilla in 1881.

The first trial for the killing of Buckshot Roberts was dismissed due to a technicality. He wasfound guilty for the murder of Sheriff Brady during his second trial. The Kid was to be hung May13 in Lincoln but once again escaped in late April. He died at the hands of Sheriff Pat Garrettin Fort Sumner a month and half later.

BillytheKidMESILLA &SILVER CITY

"An ill-fated outlaw"

WARRIORS&WRITTEN BY ELIZABETH STEWART l PHOTOGRAPHY BY JOSEPH BURGESS

LAWMEN

WARRIERS, OUTLAWS & LAWMEN, 99

Outlaws are as big a part of Southern New Mexico as the grand vistas, great weather, andblack and white pottery. If you grew up in the 50’s and watched westerns, you are no stranger to Billy the Kid and the

towns Silver City and Lordsburg.Curly Bill Brocious and Russian Bill, John Ringo, Sandy King, Jim Hughes, Fred Waite, andHenry Newton Brown and the Clantons raised havoc in Southern New Mexico too.

The only deterrent to lawlessness was the unwritten law that “if you killed some one youhad to dig the grave.”

Outlaws

this page: Numerous buildingsremain in this high mountainghost town that was a livelygold-mining camp accessedfrom Glenwood or Reserve.inset: The statue of lawmanElfego Baca in the county seat ofReserve highlights an 1800sevent of epic heroism.

In the county seat of Reserve, a bronze statue commemorates lawman Elfego Baca, who endured a 33-hour shootout in 1884against incredible odds. The lawman emerged unscathed, earninghimself a reputation as a force of reckoning. Disney released a miniseries in1957 entitled The Nine Lives of Elfego Baca and later it was edited into amovie called Elfego Baca: Six Gun Law.The nearby ghost town of Mogollon is a picturesque turn-of-the-last-cen-

tury mining camp with a transient population of three to six thousand min-ers. Due to its isolation, it had a reputation as one of the wildest miningtowns in the west. A few buildings remain with a beautiful mountain setting.My Name is Nobody, starring Henry Fonda, was filmed there.Three national forests share borders within this sparsely populated land of moun-

tain lakes, hiking trails and campsites. Snow Lake on the north edge of the GilaWilderness and Quemado Lake just south of US60 are excellent trout waters whereonly electric boat motors are allowed.

Elfego BacaRESERVE, GLENWOOD& MOGOLLON

"Bigger than life reputations"

ATTRACTIONSClairmont. Ghost town 19 miles northeastof Glenwood. 575-533-6922Cooney’s Tomb. Alma, 7 miles north ofGlenwood. Burial of soldiers killed in a conflict with Apaches.Mogollon. Ghost town 13 miles northeastof Glenwood.Snow Lake. In the Gila National Forest.Camping and fishing. 47 miles northeastof Glenwood.Quemado Lake. Camping, fishing 11 milessouth of Quemado.Whitewater Canyon. 5 miles east ofGlenwood. 575-539-2711

EVENTSMar Dutch Oven Cook Off in Glenwood

Park. 575-539-2321 Jul July 4th Celebration in Glenwood.

575-539-2711July 4th Celebration in Quemadoand Reserve. 575-533-6968

Jul Frisco CowBelles’ Ann. WesternArt Auction. Dance and Barbeque inGlenwood. 575-539-2711Luna Pioneer Days & Rodeo. 575-533-6968

Aug Catron County Fair and Rodeo inReserve. 575-533-6968

Sep Pie Town Pie Festival. 575-772-2525

LOCATION Reserve is located at the junction ofNM 12 and the San Francisco River.Glenwood is located on US180 37miles south of Reserve and 60miles northwest of Silver City.

Serving Catron and Grant Counties.Homemaker Services.

Glenwood Off ice: 575.539.2227Silver City Off ice: 575.534.0311

Angelwings Coordinated Care LLC.& Angelwings Home Care

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com100

Whitewater Motel

New Construction • Adobe Homes • Metal Roofing

Kenny Sutton, Licensed Contractor

Glenwood, New Mexico575.539. 2584 • 505.469. 156 1

t re s am i gos@wi l d b l u e . n e t

Tres Amigos Enterprises Inc.

Relax and enjoy vacationingin the heart of Glenw ood.

Surrounded by rugged mountains and forests. • Dish Network • Air Conditioning • Free Wi-Fi

• Fantastic Views • Spacious Backyard

PO Box 158 • Glenwood, NM 88039575.539. 2581 • www.wh i t ewa t e rmo t e l . com

101WARRIORS, OUTLAWS & LAWMEN PINOS ALTOS

Geronimo, an Apache medicine man, was a fierce warrior hunted by the armies of both Mexico andthe United States. A monument recognizing his birth near the headwaters of the Gila River north ofSilver City was erected at the Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument Visitor Center. Anotherdescribes his final surrender at Skeleton Canyon in New Mexico’s boot heel west of Rodeo.The Trail of the Mountain Spirits National Scenic Byway winds through rugged mountain forests,

crisscrossing the Continental Divide where Geronimo undoubtedly honed his skills for hunting andavoiding capture. It skirts Lake Roberts, crosses the Gila and Mimbres Rivers and passes missionchurches, a large open pit mine and Fort Bayard Historic District and National Cemetery that oncesupported Buffalo soldiers that protected against the illusive Indians.At 7,000 feet, the byway passes through the quaint village of Pinos Altos, once a rip-roaring gold-

mining camp and county seat, while just beyond, the peaceful Mimbres River Valley supportsorchards and remnants of prehistoric cultures.

GeronimoTrailof the Mountain Spirits National Scenic By-Way

SILVER CITY, PINOS ALTOS, LAKE ROBERTS & THE MIMBRES VALLEY

"Rugged warrior in a rugged land"

LOCATION Starting and finishing in Silver City, the trail loopheads north on NM15, east and south onNM35, west on NM152 and north on US180.

MORE INFORMATION Murray Ryan Visitor Center (575) 538-5555www.southwestnewmexico.orgGrant County Business and Conference Center(575) 574-0070 • www.grantcountynm.com

this page: The Gila River tumblesthrough the nation’s first designatedwilderness area and the birthplace ofthe notorious Apache, Geronimo.

Fabulous getaway nestled in the tall pinesof Pinos Altos.

• Crackling Fireplaces• Secluded Balconies• Relaxing Porches• Telephone• Satellite TV• Barbeque Grill• Hot Tub in Cabana• Meeting Room• Cabins with kitchens are available.

Conveniently locatedjust 7 miles northof Silver City onNM Hwy. 15.

575.388.4501888.388.4515

Make reservations & view availability online

www.BearCreekCabins.com88 Main Street • Pinos Altos, NM 88053

2014 NEW MEXICO TRAVELER www.travelernm.com102

this page: Museums, performing artstheaters and outdoor art vie for spacein downtown El Paso. Horse racing,casino gambling and Sun Bowlfootball compete for visitor attention.

EVENTSJan Annual El Paso Chamber Music Festival.

915-833-9400 www.visitelpaso.comFeb El Paso Marathon. 915-487-6775

www.elpasomarathon.orgMar Annual Siglo de Oro Drama Festival

915-532-7273 www.visitelpaso.comSunland Derby.575-874-5200 www.sunland-park.comFranklin Mountain Poppies Celebration.915-755-4332 www.visitelpaso.com

May KLAQ International Balloonfest. 915-544-8864www.klaq.com

Jun Viva! El Paso. 915-588-7054 www.viva-ep.orgAug Plaza Classic Film Festival. 915-534-0600

www.plazaclassic.comSep Fiesta de las Flores 915-533-3730

fiestadelasflores.orgChihuahuan Desert Fiesta. 915-217-4233 www.celebmtns.org

Oct Amigo Airsho. 915-562-3910 www.amigoairsho.orgHueco Tanks Interpretive Fair. 915-857-1135

Dec Luminarias By The Lake 915-584-0563Sun Bowl and Fan Fiesta. 915-533-4416 www.sunbowl.org

May-Aug Alfresco! Fridays. 915-541-4481Jun-Aug Music Under the Stars. Sundays

915-541-4481 www.nps.gov/cham

ATTRACTIONSThe Border Jumper. One Civic Center Plaza. ElPaso-Juarez Trolley Company shuttles back and forthbetween these twin cities. 915-544-0062.El Paso Zoo. 5-acre zoo with more than 700 animals in nat-ural settings. 915-544-1928.Fort Bliss Museum. A reproduction of the 1854 forthouses the museum.Living history displays & Civil Warartifacts. 915-568-4518.EI Paso Museum of Art. One Arts Festival Plaza.Galleries, educational exhibits, museum store. 915-532-1707.Wyler Aerial Tramway. Alabama to McKinley Ave.View two countries and three states from the south-ern end of the Franklin Mountains. 915-566-6622.

LOCATIONEl Paso is located on I-10 at the internationalgateway to the Old West.

MORE INFORMATIONEl Paso Convention & Visitors Bureau (800) 351-6024 www.visitelpaso.com.El Paso Hispanic Chamber of Commerce (915) 566-4066 www.ephcc.org.The Greater El Paso Chamber of Commerce(915) 534-0500 www.elpaso.org.

Despite its high-intensity industrial status, the international metropolis of El Paso,Texas/Juárez, Chihuahua still cradles its heritage as the site where Spanish colonizers firstentered the Southwest in 1598, the home of buffalo soldiers at old Fort Bliss, the keeperof tales and graves of the old west gunslingers that earned El Paso the reputation as the“Six Shooter Capital,” and the trail of active historic missions built by pueblo Indians whomaintain their native beliefs and ceremonies to this day. El Paso protects its legends and pioneer spirit through its museums, reenactments and

performances including the outdoor summer month’s spectacle, “Viva El Paso,” on stageat the McKelligon Canyon Amphitheatre. The revitalized downtown district offers anincredible array of international culture, shopping and entertainment. Horseracing andcasino gaming at Sunland Park Race Track, Sunbowl football and a packed schedule offiestas and concerts keep the city hopping year-round. Specialty shops, Mexican arts andcrafts and western boot outlets are enticing and plentiful.Hiking trails and picnic sites are available in the Franklin Mountains State Park and

there are arts and music performances throughout the year at Chamizal NationalMemorial, major downtown venues and on the intriguingly beautiful University of TexasEl Paso campus.

ElPasoInternational metropolis

"A major confluence of history, culture and the arts"

103EL PASO, TX

Western New MexicoUniversity Museum—

Home of The NANRanch CollectionPottery Photograph Courtesy of Western NewMexico University Museum—The NAN Ranch

Collection. Photo by Anthony Howell ©2013WNMU Museum.

Gila Cliff Dwellings National MonumentA visitor center, museum andshort hike to the CliffDwellingsoffer a glimpse into the homesand lives of the ancientMogollon People.

Youradventures inSouthwestNew Mexicobegin inSilver City

EnjoyClean Mountain Air,Museums, Restaurants,Galleries, Shopping, Hiking, Bird Watching,Dark Skies, Scenic Drives

Trail of theMountain SpiritsNational Scenic Byway

3.3 Million-AcreGila National Forest

877.927.6737 • 505.726.9100beemanjewelrydesign.com

B E E M A NJ E W E L R Y D E S I G N

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Bali Sterling Beads with Baroque Pearls and Rock Crystal

www.alamogordo.com