183-185 Springvale Road

Nunawading Victoria 3131Phone (03)

9877 5342

Fax (03) 9804 4048

Email: information@birdobservers.org.au

www.boca.org.au

www.boca.org.au

Nest-boxes for Australian Birds

Inspection of Boxes Resist the temptation to open nest-boxes to constantly

examine the contents—you can follow the progress by

watching from a distance. Any inspections should be

planned in advance, so that as little disturbance as

possible is caused. Careless inspection could cause a

bird to desert. Remember that other creatures may use

the boxes, so be prepared for birds, possums, bats,

spiders, bees and other animals. If a bird is sitting

tightly, do not disturb it or attempt to feel the eggs.

Several species have

more than one brood per

season; for example,

Owlet-nightjars have

raised two clutches and

Striated Pardalotes three

clutches in artificial nest-

sites.

Please advise BOCA of

the results of the nest-

box use, so that your

experience can help

others.

Bird Observation & Conservation Australia

Bird Observation & Conservation Australia

Revised 2011

Bird

Height

Depth

Suggested

entrance h

ole

diameter a

nd positio

n

Shape

Rosella

40cm

15cm

30cm

7-12cm: to

p of h

eight

Vertical

Straited

Pard

alote

15cm

28cm

15cm

2.5—3.5cm

; at end of w

idth

Hortizo

ntal o

r Vertical

Laughing Kookaburra

18cm

15cm

40+cm

8-12cm

Hortizo

ntal

Red-ru

mped Parro

t 10-15cm

20cm

40cm

7cm

Preferab

ly Horizo

ntal

Treecreep

er 10-15cm

9-15cm

15cm

5-8cm

Owlet-N

ightjar

30cm

15cm

15cm

7-12cm; to

p of h

eight

Can be taller

Grey Teal*

*

45cm

35cm

35cm

8-10cm

Flex

ible ab

out size

Chestn

ut T

eal**

45cm

35cm

35cm

8-10cm

Flex

ible ab

out size

Pacific B

lack Duck**

45cm

45cm

45cm

12cm

Flex

ible ab

out size

Pink-eared

Duck**

45cm

45cm

45cm

12cm

Platfo

rm

Width

** For d

ucks d

rill well-sp

aced 5mm drain

age h

oles in

base

Bird Observation & Conservation Australia and Birds Bird Observation & Conservation Australia and Birds Bird Observation & Conservation Australia and Birds Bird Observation & Conservation Australia and Birds

Australia are merging to form a new organisation Australia are merging to form a new organisation Australia are merging to form a new organisation Australia are merging to form a new organisation

called BirdLife Australia, to be launched in 2012.called BirdLife Australia, to be launched in 2012.called BirdLife Australia, to be launched in 2012.called BirdLife Australia, to be launched in 2012.

Australian Owlet Nightjar

Photo: J. Hand

Nest-boxes for Australian birds

Parrots, such as Red-rumped Parrots and lorikeets, util-

ize horizontal and vertical nest-sites. Remember that

fledglings will eventually need to climb up out of the

box, so a rough inner surface, a ‘ladder’ of a few hori-

zontal sticks or small holed wire mesh should be at-

tached to the inside of the front wall.

Entrance Hole

Boxes with entrance holes near the top ensures darkness

inside and seem to be most successful. In general, birds

prefer almost the smallest hole they can fit into. The

hole can be off-centre, and can be round, square or oval.

Other Features of the Boxes

A hinged panel (either roof, side or front) enables in-

spection and cleaning after use. Leather straps can be

used for the hinges. Make sure that the panel cannot be

accidentally knocked open.

A short overhang or ‘verandah’ may be useful in reduc-

ing light and weather. The roof should slope slightly to

allow rain to run off. To avoid heat stress in the nest, a

double roof can be made for extra insulation.

A box should be durable enough to last several seasons,

so weatherproof it using creosote or weatherproof non-

toxic paint. A few small drainage holes in the floor may

be useful. Chaulking compound can be used to block

cracks that let in too much air or light. The inner sur-

faces of the box should preferably be a dark colour.

Some parrots, pardalotes and other birds use a perch

near the entrance but it is not necessary. A perch does

not necessarily have to be built on to the box. Sparrows

and Starlings seem to prefer entrance perches, so it may

be better to omit them. Cover the floor of the box with a

handful of decayed wood, peat moss, wood shavings or

similar material. Although many species bring their

own material, there are a few which will not normally

nest unless some is already present. Natural hollows

have decayed wood, so try to imitate these conditions.

Placement of the Boxes

Avoid positions that allow entry of cold and rain, and

also consider direct hot sun. The direction which the

entrance faces is probably not important in evenly

shaded and sheltered situations, although some leaf

cover above the box may be beneficial. Do not tilt the

box backwards as this allows weather and light to

enter more easily.

A number of boxes may be placed in an area. They

can be sited in parks and on farms if permission is

received. Deeper boxes attached to fenceposts may

be used by Rosellas, but remember that Starlings will

often get there first. Low boxes are easily vandalized,

so try to place them three metres or more above the

ground. Ducks vary in their nesting requirements, but

ideally place the box in a tree near the water, prefera-

bly within cover.

A wide metal strip can be placed around the tree

trunk, below the box, to stop predators. Whether you

use strapping, wire or nails, it is essential that the box

is firmly positioned. Avoid use of nails if the tree is

one day likely to be sawn, and remember that trunks

and branches will grow, perhaps breaking a strap or

wire.

Many native Australian birds use tree hollows for nest-

ing. Amongst the better know species are cockatoos,

parrots and kookaburras, but pardalotes, treecreepers,

owls, some ducks and other species need holes in trunks

and hollow branches for nest-sites. These birds have

successfully used artificial nest-boxes and many have

returned year after year to the same box.

Artificial Sites

Wooden nest-boxes and hollow logs and branches are

usually used. Pipes of concrete, ceramic and bamboo ,

have all been successful, placed vertically or horizonally

depending on the species to be attracted. If using logs,

do not take them from a site where they are already be-

ing used by wildlife. Wooden boxes are not difficult to

make (the birds do not mind rough carpentry, as long as

it is weatherproof) and they are easier to handle than

hollow log boxes. Remember that thin-walled boxes can

become hot if exposed to the sun. Birds prefer hollows

that are cosy but not too restricting.

Size and Shape of Box

This can be varied according to target species. Kooka-

burras need a horizontal box about 40cm long and 15cm

wide but not very deep. Their entrance hole needs to be

not too far above the floor of the box because the chicks

excrete from the nest and therefore need access to the

entrance. Rosellas use both horizontal and vertical boxes,

but seem to prefer vertical ones about 40cm deep and 10-

15cm wide. Straited Pardalotes also use horizontal and

vertical boxes. They build their bark nests 20cm or more

in from the entrance hole.

Pest Birds

Unfortunately sparrows, Common Starlings and Common

Mynas become nuisances in many areas by dominating nest-

boxes at the expense of native species. The nesting material

must be removed before the eggs are laid. Starlings can fill

two or three holes with nesting material before choosing one

as a nest. Construction of the boxes can assist with discour-

agement of these species. Sparrows and Starlings seem to

prefer perches near boxes so do not provide them or build a

drop-down cover, from the overhanging roof, to cover the

front of the hole so they can not fly straight in. Entrance hole

sizes to deter pests are as follows: 70mm prevents Brush-

tailed Possums, 45mm prevents Common Mynas, 35mm

prevents Starlings, 28mm prevents House Sparrows and

26mm Tree Sparrows.