NECESSARIES:TWO HUNDRED YEARS OF

FASHION ACCESSORIES

DANIEL DELIS HILL

Preface // ix-xii

Chapter 1 Neoclassicism to Romanticism 1800–1840 // 1–38

The Industrial Revolution and Social Transformation 1800–1840 // 1Neoclassicism in Art and Women’s Fashion 1804–1820 // 2Romanticism in Art and Women’s Fashion 1820–1840 // 5Women’s Fashion Accessories: Purpose and Meaning in the Nineteenth Century // 6Women’s Hats 1800–1840 // 9Women’s Footwear 1800–1840 // 10Women’s Handbags 1800–1840 // 11Women’s Jewelry 1800–1840 // 13Women’s Gloves 1800–1840 // 14Women’s Parasols 1800–1840 // 15Women’s Fans 1800–1840 // 16Women’s Neckwear 1800–1840 // 17Women’s Belts and Sashes 1800–1840 // 19Women’s Handkerchiefs 1800–1840 // 20Women’s Eyewear 1800–1840 // 21Women’s Hosiery 1800–1840 // 21Men’s Fashion Accessories: Purpose and Meaning in the Nineteenth Century // 21Neoclassicism in Men’s Fashion 1800–1820 // 22Romanticism in Men’s Fashion 1820–1840 // 23Men’s Hats 1800–1840 // 25Men’s Shoes 1800–1840 // 25Men’s Neckwear 1800–1840 // 27Men’s Jewelry 1800–1840 // 29Men’s Gloves 1800–1840 // 31Men’s Walking Sticks 1800–1840 // 31Men’s Suspenders 1800–1840 // 32Men’s Handkerchiefs 1800–1840 // 32Men’s Hosiery 1800–1840 // 33Men’s Spectacles 1800–1840 // 33Men’s Small Leather Goods 1800–1840 // 34Men’s Snuff Boxes 1800–1840 // 34Men’s Umbrellas 1800–1840 // 35Conclusion // 36

Chapter 2 Victorian through the Fin de Siècle 1840–1900 // 39–86

Victorian Culture and Society 1840–1900 // 39Nationalism and the Second Industrial Revolution 1840–1900 // 40 The Development of Ready-to-Wear and Couture 1840–1900 // 41

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Contents

Women’s Fashions 1840–1900 // 42Women’s Hats 1840–1900 // 44Women’s Footwear 1840–1900 // 47Women’s Handbags and Small Leather Goods 1840–1900 // 51Women’s Jewelry 1840–1900 // 53Women’s Gloves 1840–1900 // 56Women’s Parasols 1840–1900 // 57Women’s Fans 1840–1900 // 59Women’s Neckwear 1840–1900 // 60Women’s Belts and Sashes 1840–1900 // 64Women’s Handkerchiefs 1840–1900 // 64Women’s Eyewear 1840–1900 // 65Women’s Hosiery 1840–1900 // 66Victorian Men’s Fashion 1840–1900 // 67Men’s Hats 1840–1900 // 68Men’s Shoes 1840–1900 // 70Men’s Neckwear 1840–1900 // 72Men’s Jewelry 1840–1900 // 75Men’s Gloves 1840–1900 // 78Men’s Walking Sticks 1840–1900 // 78Men’s Belts and Suspenders 1840–1900 // 79Men’s Handkerchiefs 1840–1900 // 80Men’s Hosiery 1840–1900 // 80Men’s Eyewear 1840–1900 // 81Men’s Small Leather Goods 1840–1900 // 82Men’s Umbrellas 1840–1900 // 83Conclusion // 84

Chapter 3 The Edwardian Era 1900–1914 // 87–116

The Edwardian Era 1900–1914 // 87Women’s Fashions 1900–1914 // 88Women’s Hats 1900–1914 // 89Women’s Footwear 1900–1914 // 92Women’s Handbags and Small Leather Goods 1900–1914 // 94Women’s Jewelry 1900–1914 // 95Women’s Gloves 1900–1914 // 96Women’s Parasols 1900–1914 // 98Women’s Fans 1900–1914 // 98Women’s Neckwear 1900–1914 // 99Women’s Belts and Sashes 1900–1914 // 101Women’s Handkerchiefs 1900–1914 // 101Women’s Eyewear 1900–1914 // 102Women’s Hosiery 1900–1914 // 102Edwardian Men’s Fashions 1900–1914 // 104Men’s Hats 1900–1914 // 104Men’s Footwear 1900–1914 // 105Men’s Neckwear 1900–1914 // 107Men’s Jewelry 1900–1914 // 109Men’s Gloves 1900–1914 // 110Men’s Walking Sticks 1900–1914 // 110Men’s Belts and Suspenders 1900–1914 // 110

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Men’s Handkerchiefs 1900–1914 // 112Men’s Hosiery 1900–1914 // 112Men’s Eyewear 1900–1914 // 113Men’s Small Leather Goods 1900–1914 // 114Men’s Umbrellas 1900–1914 // 114Conclusion // 114

Chapter 4 World War I Through the Great Euphoria 1915–1929 // 117–154

The End of Innocence 1915–1929 // 117 Women’s Fashions 1915–1929 // 119Women’s Hats 1915–1929 // 121Women’s Footwear 1915–1929 // 121Women’s Handbags and Small Leathers 1915–1929 // 123Women’s Jewelry 1915–1929 // 125Women’s Gloves 1915–1929 // 128Women’s Parasols 1915–1929 // 129Women’s Fans 1915–1929 // 130Women’s Neckwear 1915–1929 // 130Women’s Belts and Sashes 1915–1929 // 133Women’s Handkerchiefs 1915–1929 // 133Women’s Eyewear 1915–1929 // 134Women’s Hosiery 1915–1929 // 135Jazz Age Men’s Fashions 1915–1929 // 137Men’s Hats 1915–1929 // 138Men’s Footwear 1915–1929 // 139Men’s Neckwear 1915–1929 // 141Men’s Jewelry 1915–1929 // 142Men’s Gloves 1915–1929 // 144Men’s Walking Sticks 1915–1929 // 145Men’s Belts and Suspenders 1915–1929 // 145Men’s Handkerchiefs 1915–1929 // 147Men’s Hosiery 1915–1929 // 147Men’s Eyewear 1915–1929 // 148Men’s Small Leather Goods 1915–1929 // 150Men’s Umbrellas 1915–1929 // 151Conclusion // 152

Chapter 5 The Great Depression and World War II 1930–1945 // 155–190

The Great Depression 1930–1940 // 155World War II 1939–1945 // 156Women’s Fashions 1930–1945 // 156Women’s Hats 1930–1945 // 157Women’s Footwear 1930–1945 // 160Women’s Handbags and Small Leather Goods 1930–1945 // 162Women’s Jewelry 1930–1945 // 162Women’s Gloves 1930–1945 // 166Women’s Neckwear 1930–1945 // 168Women’s Belts and Sashes 1930–1945 // 169Women’s Handkerchiefs 1930–1945 // 171

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Women’s Eyewear 1930–1945 // 172Women’s Hosiery 1930–1945 // 174Men’s Fashions 1930–1945 // 175Men’s Hats 1930–1945 // 176Men’s Footwear 1930–1945 // 179Men’s Neckwear 1930–1945 // 179Men’s Jewelry 1930–1945 // 181Men’s Gloves 1930–1945 // 183Men’s Belts and Suspenders 1930–1945 // 184Men’s Handkerchiefs 1930–1945 // 185Men’s Hosiery 1930–1945 // 186Men’s Eyewear 1930–1945 // 187Men’s Small Leather Goods 1930–1945 // 187Conclusion // 188

Chapter 6 The New Look Era 1946–1959 // 191–220

The Cold War and Consumerism 1946–1959 // 191Women’s Fashions 1946–1959 // 192Women’s Hats 1946–1959 // 192Women’s Footwear 1946–1959 // 194Women’s Handbags and Small Leather Goods 1946–1959 // 197Women’s Jewelry 1946–1959 // 198Women’s Gloves 1946–1959 // 200Women’s Neckwear 1946–1959 // 201Women’s Belts and Sashes 1946–1959 // 203Women’s Eyewear 1946–1959 // 205Women’s Hosiery 1946–1959 // 205Postwar Men’s Fashions 1946–1959 // 207Men’s Hats 1946–1959 // 208Men’s Footwear 1946–1959 // 210Men’s Neckwear 1946–1959 // 211Men’s Jewelry 1946–1959 // 212Men’s Belts and Suspenders 1946–1959 // 214Men’s Handkerchiefs 1946–1959 // 215Men’s Hosiery 1946–1959 // 216Men’s Eyewear 1946–1959 // 217Men’s Small Leather Goods 1946–1959 // 218Conclusion // 219

Chapter 7 Camelot to Disco 1960–1979 // 221–258Rebellion and Revolution 1960–1979 // 221Women’s Fashions 1960–1979 // 222Women’s Hats 1960–1979 // 223Women’s Footwear 1960–1979 // 225Women’s Handbags and Small Leather Goods 1960–1979 // 227Women’s Jewelry 1960–1979 // 229Women’s Gloves 1960–1979 // 232Women’s Neckwear 1960–1979 // 233Women’s Belts and Sashes 1960–1979 // 234

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Women’s Eyewear 1960–1979 // 235Women’s Hosiery 1960–1979 // 237Peacock Men’s Fashions 1960–1979 // 239Men’s Hats 1960–1979 // 240Men’s Footwear 1960–1979 // 242Men’s Neckwear 1960–1979 // 244Men’s Jewelry 1960–1979 // 247Men’s Belts and Suspenders 1960–1979 // 249Men’s Handkerchiefs 1960–1979 // 251Men’s Hosiery 1960–1979 // 253Men’s Eyewear 1960–1979 // 253Men’s Small Leather Goods 1960–1979 // 255Conclusion // 256

Chapter 8 Millennial Pluralism 1980–2010s // 259–302Millennial Globalism 1980–2010s // 259The Fashion Industry 1980–2010s // 260Women’s Fashions 1980–2010s // 260Women’s Hats 1980–2010s // 264Women’s Footwear 1980–2010s // 267Women’s Handbags and Small Leather Goods 1980–2010s // 268Women’s Jewelry 1980–2010s // 271Women’s Gloves 1980–2010s // 274Women’s Neckwear 1980–2010s // 275Women’s Belts 1980–2010s // 277Women’s Eyewear 1980–2010s // 278Women’s Hosiery 1980–2010s // 280Men’s Fashions 1980–2010s // 281Men’s Hats 1980–2010s // 283Men’s Footwear 1980–2010s // 285Men’s Neckwear 1980–2010s // 287Men’s Jewelry 1980–2010s // 289Men’s Belts and Suspenders 1980–2010s // 291 Men’s Handkerchiefs 1980–2010s // 294Men’s Hosiery 1980–2010s // 294Men’s Eyewear 1980–2010s // 296Men’s Small Leather Goods 1980–2010s // 298Conclusion // 300

Notes // 303–318Bibliography // 319–325Index // 326–330

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