Nearshore Wave Prediction Along the Oregon Coast

H. Tuba Özkan-Haller (COAS) Peter Ruggiero (Geosciences)

The nearshore ocean is fun

…….. beautiful

…….. keeps us fed

Pelamis

OPT

Wavegen

…….. energetic

…….. vulnerable

…….. vulnerable

…….. vulnerable

Ruggiero, Allan, and Komar, 2010; after Allan and Komar, 2000; 2006

Nearshore Wave Predictions

Why?

• local storm surge and flood predictions

• navigational planning

• siting of wave energy devices

• forecasts for recreational users

Who?

• general public

• coastal decision makers

• mariners

• researchers

Nearshore Wave Predictions

Nearshore wave predictions – OR forecast system

Wave modifications over the OR shelf

Nearshore wave predictions – California CDIP forecasts

In OR and WA: • NOAA Coastal Storms initiative –

select inlets

Predicted wave heights • at 10m depth• at 100-200m alongshore resolution

Nearshore wave predictions – OR forecasts system

Scientific Objectives:

• Implement a prediction system

• Validate system using hindcasts

• begin to assess local vulnerability

Outreach and Engagement Objectives: (Pat Corcoran)• conduct two workshops to

→ engage agency scientists, use planners and ocean users→ task some to use system and report reliability

• publicize system

• given deep water wave conditions at NOAA buoy locations → predict wave characteristics nearshore

Bathymetry •Sea from NW •Swell from W •Swell from SWWave height predictions for:

Shadowing from Cape Blanco

Nearshore wave predictions – OR forecasts system

Nearshore wave predictions – OR forecasts system

Objectives:

• Implement a prediction system

•Validate system using hindcasts

• begin to assess local vulnerability

Outcome:

• a validated coastal wave prediction systemtransitioned to the NWS

Uses:

• local storm surge and flood predictions

• navigational planning

• siting of wave energy devices

• forecasts for recreational users