national geographic - january 1939-

THE NATIONALGEOGRAPHICMAGAZİNE

JANUARY, 1939

The Transformation of TurkeyWith 26 Illustrations and Map DOUGLAS CHANDLER

Old Pattern and New in Turkey23 Natural Color Photographs BERNARD F. ROGERS, JR.

The Texas Delta of an American NileWith 27 Illustrations and Map McFALL KERBEY

Rio Grande Cornucopia Under a Winter Sun24 Natural Color Photographs B. ANTHONY STEWART

I Kept House in a JungleWith 29 Illustrations

Modern Venezuelan Vignettes9 Illustrations

ANNE R A I N E Y LANGLEY

THIRTY-TWO PAGES OF ILLUSTRATİONS İN FULL COLOR

PUBLISHED BY THE

NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC SOCIETVHUBBARD MEMORIAL HALL

WASHiNGTON, D.C.

VOL. LXX\', Xo. l \VASHIXGTOX JANUARY, 1939

THE TRANSFORMATION OF TURKEY

New Hats and New Alphabet arc the Surface Symbolsof the Swiftest National Changes in Modern Times

B Y DorcLAS CHANDLER

THE Orient Express runs över a steelpath leading ııp to that perpetual mys-tery catled Asia. Its branches ünite

at Belgrade and carry on as öne untilTıırkey has been reached.

Sno\v, mushy, mid-April snow, suffocatedthe landscape and slid drearily down thecompartment \vindo\v as we clumped överthe rails through Vııgoslavia and Bıılgariato\vard İstanbul.

Xext morning, when the ste\vard rousedm e before arrival in Turkey's former capi-tal, I found vvintry skies \veighing down onthe minarets, and f ru i t trees shovving onlytheir fırst bloom. I had lef t spring \velladvanced in my Potsdam garden; here. 800miles nearer the Equator. the calendar wasîagging behind.

istanbul \vas \valking to vvork. Acrossbroad Galata Bridge. its iron pontoonsfloating on the \vaters of the Golden Horn.streamed a mass of darkly garbed people.Xo bright garment, no touch of color re-lieved the monotony of westernized rai-ment (page 10).

Squeezing pîaintive sobs from his rubberbulb horn, my taxi driver threaded his wayup the t\visting ascent of bluff throughthe city's main thoroughfare, the shiningmudguards of his American-made car part-ing the pedestrian mob as a ship's bo\vpushes back sluggish. \veedy vvater.

"Come. show me the modern \vonders ofyour city," I begged a Turkish acquaint-ance.

"For modern a r c h i t e c t u r a l w o n d e r syou've come too soon," he replîed. "Wehave just started a rebuilding program,planned by European and Turkish archi-tects, which in five years will change thecity's face. At present tstanbul's moststriking feature is our emancipation fromIslamic custom.''

CHILDEEN İN THE SADDLE

\Ve found Taksim Square the scene of anational celebration. A band was playinglo regiments of children ranged around theBirth of the Republic monument, firstsculptured group erected in Turkey.

"Yon have arrived on a double holiday,"said my friendly guide. "Today is theanniversary of the opening of Turkey's firstParliament, April 23, 1920; also, it is thebeginning of Children's \Veek,"

For öne week of each year the local gov-ernment of every provînce is run by schoolchildren. Little boys with treble voicestake över the offices of governor, mayor,alderman, poliçe chief; their small sistersin black skirts and ıvhite blouses functionas high esecutives. in the background,but near enough to see that no seriousblımders occur. stand the adult incumbentsof these positions.

During the afternoon special filnıs weresho\vn for the children's entertainment.Turkey does not admit minors to run-of-stock thrillers.

Pera Avenue is a Levantine Piccadilly

THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPH1C MAGAZİNE

Photngraph by Bcrnard F. Rogers, Jr.

THE JANISSARY KETTLEDRUM \VAS A KETTLE İN \VHICH BARRACK

FARE WAS COOKF.D IPLATE IVI

in the courtyard of the Church of the Peace of God at istanbul are fournrc-blackened caldrons in which the soldiers1 rations were prepared. \Vhendanger threatened. spoons bcat on thcir iron sides. Later, drunıheads wereadded and the kettles bccame kettledrums. related to the symphonîc instrumentand those used bv the Horsc Guards at the Trooping ol the Colour in London.

with curvature of the spine. From TaksimSquare İt descends through rows of moviehouses, hotels. and stores, each announcingits offerings in Latin-letter sîgns. Only onthe \valls of mosques, green-back surfacesof one-lira banknotes, and certain alumi-num and copper coins are Arabic charactersto be found.

Beauty shops urge black-haîred femininepassers-by to acquire an "ondulasyon1' örsubmit to the electrified caress of a uper-manent" waving machine; a department

store displays itst i t l e as "Bon-marşesi"; "Va-gonli Kook1' willa r r a n g e yourtours; "Lö Jur-nal D o r y a n ' ' isLe Journal d'Ori-c n t, a l o ç a lF r en eh newspa-per. Lining theou ter 'tween-decks space off e r r y b o a t s a r eadvertisements ofsuch products as"Poker-Play" ra-zor blades, "All-Ku Fly Spray,"" J o l i Fam',""Kremi ve Pu-dr i s i , " and va-rious makes of"Radyo.''

A SECOND 1938EASTER

A visit to theprinting plant ofrara(Daybreak),popular Turkishdaily, offereS thespectacle of mid-dle-aged and eld-erly linotype op-erators with agilefıngers s e 11 i n gtype f r o m bothLatİn-scrİpt copyand intricate Ar-abic characters.*

C o n f e c t i o n -ers' windowswerefılled with an edi-ble poultry-and-rabbit s h o w of

chocolate-and-almond paste; also curiousbread loaves in the form of a large circle-with-cross, with brilliantly dyed hens' eggsprotruding from their crisp, brown surfaces.Easter in the Christian churches of westernEurope was already past, but the Greek Or-thodox celebratîon was yet to come.

*See. in the NATIONAL GEOORAPHIC MAGAZİNE,"Turkcy Goes to School," by Maynard Owen Wil-liams. January, 1929. and "Looking in on theEveryday Life of New Turkey," 12 natural-colorphotographs, April, 1932.

THE TRANSFORMATION OF TURKEY

R e p u b l i c a nTurkey has freeditself f r om thed o m i n a t i o n o fM o h a m m e d a np r i e s t h o o d andb an ne d religioıısteaching in thesehools. Al i sectsare permitted toworship in theirown fashion. OnEaster Sunday Ifound Greek Or-thodox a n d Ar-menian churchescrowded, censerssvvinging, priestsc h a n t i n g in or-nate, b e j e w e l e drobes.

The s e r v i c eended, my friendshowed me thesesame dignitariese m e r g i n g f r o mthe doors appar-eled l i k e ordî-nary c i t i z e n s .\either men norw o m e n of re-l i g î o u s o r der sare permitted toa p p e a r on thestreets in clericalgarb.

The m ü e z z i nof today may beclad in anythingfrom a hand-rne-down businesssüit to plus-fours.D u t i f u 11 y hemounts the inner spiral of the minaret tocali the Fai thfu l . The mass of îhe peoplebeneath pass on their way, unheeding, ap-parently oblİvious to the qııavering sııppli-cation. Yet straggling worshipers are to befound in the mosques at most hours.

THE GLORY OF BY/ANTIUM

Of that army of American and Europeancruise-ship adventurers who trııdge beneaththe soaring dome of St. Sophia (page 4),how many are able to visualize the sur-rounding area as it appeared during theheight of Byzantine glory? * On St. So-phia's south flank stretched a vast marble-

g K u r t and Margot LııbinskiT\VELVE YEARS AGO THESE FACES \VOULD HAVE BEEN VEILED

One more old-fashioned \voman shields herself with her hand-bag, and warnsa friend. Beside her, in a modish black turban and head shawl, is a youngerwoman to ıvhonı the camera is a matter-of-fact feature of parades and life.

paved square, the Augusteum. To the eastand south of the square, which some \vritersliken to Venice's Piazza San Marco, stoodthe Senate House and the Palace; from thelofîy elevation of the Kathisma the Em-peror was able to gaze down on the gorysports of the Hippodrome.

Xear the focation of the long-since van-ished Hippodrome, in the court of thePalace of Constantine the Great, founderof the Byzantine Empire, mosaics of ex-traordinary beauty have recently been

*See "Constantinople Today," by Solita Solano,in the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZİNE. J üne,1922.

Photograph by llt'rnard F. Rneers, Jr.

ST. SOPHIA, BUILT AS A CHURCH AND USED FOR CENTURIKS AS A MOSQUE, IS İSTANBUI/S PRİZE ATTRACTION

Bi'hînd the massive dome with its minarets lics thc Bosporus, separatint; Europc ( lef t) from Asia. At thc cxlrcmc right is Üsküdar (Scutarî). The formal car'len in thecenter was a barc drill ground in the days of Ihe Sultans.

i

KKMAL A T A T Ü R K S SUMMKR WHITK HOUSK AT FLORYA, NKAR İSTANBUL, W A S BUILT ON A PIKR

\c;ır Ihc saııdy shnre of ihc Sea of Marmara, tht1 fırst Turkish Presidcnt mainkıim-d this placc of rL'l;ıxalion whcre hc couhi indult;u his luvc of sca- and sı ın-h;tt l ı inR.

.^ılılı- by I f ı - ı i K i ı ı l V. R.WT-,. Jr.

ROBERT COLLKGE, OUTPOST OF AMERICAN EDLTCATION, IS FRAMED BY MOHAMMKD THE CONQUEROR'S CLASSIC WALLS

Here Darius. the Persian monarch, watchcd his soldicrs cross into Europe över a brid^o of boats, en routc to lıght the Scythians. On Sfptcmber 16, 186.*, the college,named aftcr its chicf bcncfactor, Christophcr Rhinelandcr Robert, was opcncd by its fırst prcsident, Cyrus Hamlin (page 12).

THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZİNE

"FORBIDDEN AND DANGEROUS," READS THE WARNING, BUT THEY '-HOOK A RIDE"

\Vhile a Kurdish porter plods alon£, newsboys show that they don't believe in siftns. Behind the caris the slope which climbs ironi Galata's vvharves to the shops and hotels of Beyoğlu (Pera).

unearthed by Professor Thomas \Vhitte-müre, Director ot" the Byzantine Institute,of America (Plate V ) .

Shaking off the gadfty guides, I \vanderedfor hours around and within the portalsof that architectural jewel, the Sııleimanieh.ör Mosque of Soliman the Magnrfrcent(Plate XII).

The Seraglio Museum offers an almostintolerable temptation to öne who loves tototıch things of beauty. That collectionof unset gems, quite withoııt reference to itsincredible value, invites a caress.

WHITE-TIE-AND-TAILS A SYMBOL

Tn almost every public room is a por-trait ör büst of Kemal Atatürk. He standsfrowning in bronze in the lobby of the ParkHotel, tail coat, rigid bow tie, hand thrustin bosom. \Vhen the Islamic ban on re-production of the human figüre was firstremoved by the Republic, bronze, plaster,and marble \vere \vrought into incredibleparodies on art. Xow these early sculp-tured oddities are being replaced by \veli-executed statııes.

Late sunset from the Pera Palace Hotelreveals the Golden Horn turning to gün

metal; a few minutes ago it was trulygolden. Lights prick out from along thecurving waterway. Twilight İstanbul dragsat the heart, so much of human dramahas been here enacted since its founding,A. D. ,328.

NOISES OF THE NIGHT

Sleep is an elıısive jade in Constantine'sovergrown town. Roosters crow the nightthrough. There's a continuous far-off bafrk-ing from the descendants of those furtiveyellow beasts which were "hoarded'' at thetime of the island doğ purge. At brief in-tervals comes the tril l ing \vhistle of vigilantnight walchmen, answered from post topost like an echo.

I attended the annual general meeting ofthe İstanbul Service Center, new name forthe Y. W. C. A. since the legislation re-garding religious institutions was passed.The Y. M. C. A. retained its old title for atime, but now has a Turkİsh designation.

A solitary man in the midst of strangeTurkİsh and American women, I gave myattention to a very "high'' tea consisting ofhomemade devil's food cake. Lady Balti-more cake, sand tarts, walrn.it cookies,

THE TRANSFORMATION" OF TURKEY

Photograph by Bernard F. Rogers. Jr.

THE STORK. EMBLEM OF GOOD LUCK, SURVEYS KEMAL'S NEW CAPITAL FROM HİS STATUE

Pictures and statues of the "Father of the Turks" are found throup;hout the Republic (page 6). Thisequestrian figüre rose when "made-to-order" Ankara was a cheerless settlement, The boulevard ieads to theraihvay statioıı between the Ankara Palace Hotel and the Parliament Building. Beyond, as far as the eye cansee. stretches the Anatolian steppe (page 12 and Plate VIII).

THK NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZINK

THE TURKISH EEPUBLIC OCCUPIES ONLY A FIFTH THE AREA OF THE OTTOMAN EMPIREI

watching the while a program of estheticdancing performed by chunky Levantinegiriş upon a little stage.

The meeting was presided över by BayanNebahat Karaorman, philosophy depart-ment dîrector of the istanbul NormalSchool.

"You would perhaps be interested in thederivation of my name." said this charm-İng lady across the tea table. "Kara meansblack, orman is forest. My husband andI first met in the Schwarzwald of Germany.\Vhen the Turks were ordered in 1934 totake new family names, we chose this asa tribute to our happiness/1

Many of the new names were selected forsimilar reasons of sentiment. General İsmettnönü, former Premier, and recently electedto succeed Kemal Atatürk as President,took his from the decisive battle which he

won at înönü during the \Var of Tndepen-dence. Bay is Mr.; bayan both Mrs. andMiss, confıtsing in performing introduc-tions.

FROM HAREM TO COLLEGE

Bayan Karaorman opened her report byquoting from a speech of the late President:

"\Voman's primary duty is motherhood,and higher culture will be attained only bythe education of future mothers. Our na-tion has decided to be strong, and our ab-solute need today is the higher educationof our women. They shall be instructed inevery field of science and receive the sameriegrees as men. Men and \vomen will \vorktogether in ali paths of l i fe and help eachother."

Tbe Service Center is carrying on avaried program of education in Turkish

HE TKANSFORMATION OF TURKEY

"v=\serUCâPsareaMa;acaM a l a t a y â

=> -.i

A/^l^.^İjV-4 K i z i l "DEXIZ1 Adalar^

İN 30 V E A R S ITS CITIZENS HAVE ACHIEVED NATIONAL UNITV AND AMAZING PROGRESS

homes. T t includes cooking. serving ofmeals, flower arrangement, interior decora-tion, music, and other domestic subjects.it is also organizing playgrounds for chil-dren in the larger cities.

Noticing the countless hucksters stagger-ing ıınder heavily loaded baskets as theycried their wares through the streets, Ithought it strange that donkeys were notbearing these loads.

"That long-eared friend of man is legallybanished from the city linıits of İstanbul,"I was informed.

"\Vhat's his erime?" T asked.l'He is regarded as a symbol of that past

\vith \vhich \ve have broken."Ho\vever, öne of the anİnıals I did dis-

cover, peacefully munching grass in thewalled garden of a certain foreign func-tionary. it had been smuggled in, hidden

İn a moving van, to serve as playmate fortwo delighted children.

TURKEY'S MOTORLESS BERMUDA

The donkev stili hokls his own on BüyükAda, largest of the Kizil Adalar, ör PrincesIslands (Plate VII) . Here the motorcaris not allovved; horse and donkev reignsupreme. A fashionable commuting popu-lation of İstanbulers occupies the hand-some villas of this verdant isle,

I arranged an interview \vith Mrs. GeorgeL. Manning, founder of the Turkish S. P.C. A. This American lady, decorated byseveral governments, has devoted her for-tune and her life to amelİoratîng the suffer-ings of dumb animals.

''We have succeeded in outlawing cock-fights, dogfights, and camelfights," shecontinued. "But the most drama t iç battle

riıolO|!fa|)]ı lıy lîı>nı;ırd K. Ro^crs. Jr.

FROM AN IVOKY-COLORKI) TOWKK ; FIREMEN WATCIIING FOK TELLTALF, PUFFS OF SMOKE SURVEV THE ROOFS ANU DOMES OF OLD İSTANBUL

The Gcnoesc "Towfr of Christ," ör Galata Tower, flattcncd in thc bııildings across the Golden Horn (left ccntt'r) also serves as a lookout post. Bcyond the GalataBriç!{,'*: spreaıls thc Dolma Bahçe Palacc, which Kemal Atatürk abandoncd. except as a summcr rcsidcnce, after it had sürved as a home for three Sultans, Abdul Mcjid,Abdıd Aziz (Platc XIII), and Murad V. in this homc of thc Sultans thc first I'resident dicd, on Novembı-r 10, 193S, amid sccnes of garish but loncly mat-nificence.

BRUSmVOOD FUEL KACES ONCOMING \VINTER ACROSS THE ANATOLIAN STEPPE

Central Anatolia has few trces, and a permit is required before the peasants may cut their wintor's fuel. On the road from Alaca to Merzifon were sixty oxcart-^ l\vith branchcs to heat ovens and stoves durinn the lonp \vintcr. By roads. railvvays. and rcforcstation. Turkey is trying to alleviate the fucl problem.

12 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZİNE

we ever won was in combating the intro-duction of bullfighting into Turkey. Itssponsors had bııilt an arena: tickets weresold for the opening fight. Xo legal groundsfor an injunction could be found. However,at the eleventh hour it was ruled that nobull might be killed—a Portialike adjudi-cation of the issue!"

An invitation for dinner at istanbulAmerican College coincided with the onlybrilliant dav of my stay. Four years agothe administrations of Robert College andof the American College for Giriş at istan-bul were combined under öne president.Turkish Government offîcials refer to thetwo colleges as öne institution—istanbulAmerican College. The fine scholastic tra-dition established by their founders 75years ago is being continued (page 5).

A PANORAMA OF HISTORY

From my host's balcony on that superbbluff above the Bosporus,* we looked downupon the subtly smiling, current-dimpledwaters which link the Black Sea with theMarmara {Marmara Denizi). The cren-elated gray wall of Rumili Hisarı, 15th-century citadel, cut a jagged section fromour view of the strait which at thisnarrowest point is scarcely half a milewide.

Leander's Tower on the shore nıarked apopular beach where in sıımmer mixedbathers make faster records than that ofHero's lover. Other popular places areFlorya (page 5), Büyükdere, Büyük Island.Moda, and Kalamis (map, pages 8-9).

Hidden around a wide curve of shore-line lav the Dolma Bahçe Palace, whichPresident Atatürk made his summer head-quarters (page 10).

"The President, the ministers, and theentire diplomatic corps will be movingdown here in a few weeks," said the profes-sor. ('Now, before the höt days come, isthe time for you to head for the capital.Spend as much time as you can spare inAnkara; there is the esperi men t al labora-tory for this ambitious nation."

\Yith a large map spread upon a table.we sketched out a route for my journeythrough Anatolia—that Anatolia of theHiltites and Seljuks, where now dynamosand wheels have commenced their drivingwhine.f

A daily plane dashes in two hours fromistanbul to the capital. Lowering skiesand poor vis ibi l i ty made me prefer the

railroad. in my pocket was a yellow"People's Mileage Ticket." bearing a pho-tographic libel of myself and my name.vvritten "Bay Santler." This was a bargain.guaranteeing two months' continuous travelon any line for about S60.

For miles the railway line skirts the Seaof Marmara, a Turkish Riviera of compell-ing charm. At a point well toward the apexof the bay of İzmit (Nicomedia) lies theTurkish naval base, with fleet at anchor.

Eastward we moımt toward the highAnatolian plateau. Tn a jungle-grownwaste of small trees moves a herd of canıel?browsing; storks hold a plebiscite upon amarshy plain. T noted öne example of for-bidden headgear, a turban worn by anaged farmer, his white beard arched towardtbe brown earth in which he toils.

The ne\v Ankara railroad station resoundswith early-morning arrival and departure.Kscept for that of Helsinki, I know of nonemore impressive.

There is a theatrical unrealİty about thiscity when öne first glimpses its geometri-calj "little-Washington" formation, spread-ing out under the crumbling peak of theCitadel (Plate VIII) .

That ankyra is the Greek word meaning"anchor" is significant, for it is here thatthe passionate spirit of nationalism has at-tached itself, radiating out \vard, fanvvise,to the provinces.

EMERALD CITY ON A GRAY STEPPE

Atatürk Boulevard, broader than Broad-way but not so wayward. will shortly beeligible to contend for first place in a Green-est Streets Olympic of \vorld capitals. AI-ready parks line its sides from midtownto the President's mansion, built on theshoulder of Çankaya slope. Hose-and-bucket bearers water the roots of scoresof thousands of fast-growing acacias.

A law passed last spring requires thatevery citizen in the rural districts shall.between the last week in February and thefirst week İn March, plant a tree, and çarefor İt for öne year.

*See "Beside the Bosporus, Divider of Conti-nents," by Maynard Owen \Villiams, in the NA-TIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZİNİ:. October, 1929.

t See "Change Comes to Bible Lands." by Fred-erick Simpich. in tbe NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAG-AZİNE. December, 1938, and the supplement. "Mapol Bible Lands and the Cradle of \Vestern Civiliza-tion"; also, "Crossing Asia Mİnor," by Maj. RobertU'lıitney Imbrie, October, 1924. and "East of Con-stantinople," by Melville Chater. May, 1923.

THK TRANSFORMATION OF TURKEY 13

© Kurt and Marpot L u h î n » k iFROM VEILED \VOMEN TO LIFE CLASSES \VITH NÜDE MODELS

Such scenes would shock many of Turkey's farmers even today, but not 50 students at themodern Academy of Art in istanbul. Art, which Moslem tradition formerly restricted to exquisitehandıvriting and gcometrical design, now includes undraped figures.

There are no streetcars. Single-deckergreen and white autobuses congregateevery quarter-hour at the city's center bythe equestrian statue of Kemal Atatürkipage 7), then trundle off on their variousruns to the tüne of ten cents a ride.

Ankara's smoolh avenues have madebicycling popular. On bright-colored bikes\vith oversize tîres groups of black-eyedboys and giriş dodge between buses andscurrying taxis.

Up near the Diplomatic Quarter areawning-covered sidevvalk cafes, filled atnoon and late afternoon \vith Governmentemployees returning from their bureaus.

Eleven ancient mosques thrust theirnıinarets into the clear air. But in ali thecity there is not a church. The French andTtalian Embassies have chapels wherethose who wish to attend Mass are welcome.

There is little attempt to display waresin the windows of the small, one-storyshops of the retail center. There are threebookstores in öne short block. I observedamong titles of books in their windowsmany ponderoııs tomes in German andFrench on scientifıc subjects.

FASHION SHOWS ATTRACT CROWDS

Opposite my room in the Ankara PalaceHotel I heard a great buzz öne afternoon.Peeping through a half-opened door into areception hail across the corridor, I sawa crowd of a hundred ör more womenengrossed in a fashion show.

"These are ali wives and daughters ofTurkish officials.' ' explained the hail porter."The foreign diplomatic ladies mostly im-port their clothes from their own countries.And to think that less than ten years ago

14 THE XATIOXAL GEOGRAPHIC MAGAZİNE

c K u r t and Margot Lubin:-ki

FAITHFULLY HE WASHES HİS FEET BEFORE ENTERING MOSQUE

Ablutions play an important part in Islarn. in a desert they may be performed\vith sand. Having laid aside the hat of ne\v Turkey. this man retains the close-İitting skulkap which is worn under turbans frora the Meditcrranean to theGobi. The heels of his slippers are turned dovvn so that when he enters mosqucör home he may casily lav aside the street-soiled footwear (Plate XI).

our Turkish women were ali veiled. and pro-hibited by custom from going intü anypublic pîace!" (Pages 3 and 13.)

Ankara has no theaters as yet, nor any op-era. Several movie palaces present slightlystale films.

For music lovers there is the twice-weekly concert in the hail of the MusicConservatory, by an extraordinarily fineorchestra composed entirelv of Turkish in-strumentalists and now led by a Turkishconductor. I heard öne concert. with musicbv Paul Dukas and Bach.

Golf h a s notyet arrived, buttennis is popular.The great wintersport is s k i i n g ,and on f r o z e nponds within thet o w n ' s l i m i t sfancy skaters cutt hei r rhythmicf i g u r e s. Finehorses are avail-able f o r riding,and the treelessl a n d ofîers ex-c İ t i n g ö p e ns t r e t c h e s f o rcross - countrygalİops.

A n invitation1o a formal ballgiven by öne ofthe ministers int h e mansion o fthe Ghazi Farmp r o v i d e d a re-markable e x a m -ple of the innatef r i e n d l i n e s s o fthe Türk.

P r o c e e d i n gsomewhat b e l a t -edly t o p u t onwhite-t ie-and-tails in rny hotelroom, I discov-ered that I hadn e g l e c t e d t obring s t u d s andcollar buttons. It e l e p h o n e d tovarious acquaint-ances.

Desperate , Is ighted in the

lobby of my hotel a member of the TurkishParliament, retired army general, whom Iknew well by reputation but had never met.Last resort! I approached him with a sim-ttlated serio-tragic face. uMonsieur" (in-troducing myself in French), "I am in arİiplomatic quandary. Minister's party—haberdashery lack—"

"Well, well! We must do somethingabout this. Let's see. The studs I canfurnish you, as I am not attending the ball.But unfortunately I have only the collarbuttons I am wearing."

THE TRANSFORMATION OF TURKEY 15

© Douelas Chandlfr

HORSE POWER TO\VS IX UPHILL TO FLY \VITHOUT A MOTOR

in nine güder schools, boys and giriş are given free training. Here at the İnönü School 550 girişand 550 boys are taught. The barren slopes of central Anatolia are free from the hazards of trees.The GHder Department of the Aeronautical League is kno\vn as ''The Turkish Bird" (page 16).

_ ı h b y E. Ouellelle

BY "HORSE AND BÜGGY" THE BALLOT BOX IS TAKEN FROM TOWN TO TO\VN OXTURKEY'S ELECTION DAV

Judges accornpany the big receptacle, vvhich is fastened behind the \vagon. Ghazi Mustafa KemalPasha was unanimously re-elected every four years from 1923 until 1935. He was given the nameAtatürk (Father ol the Turks) in 1934. Voting is fostered as a training in democracy.

16 THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHTC MAGAZİNE

He deliberated a moment, then seized myarm and led me intü his bedroom. BeforeT could grasp his intention, he had whiskedoff coat and shirt. Removing the two col-lar buttons, he went to his dresser and,sprinkling cologne in his hands, brisklyrubbed the buttons between his palms.Then he took the studs from an embossedsilver box and presented me with my neces-sary equipment.

"Go to your party, my friend," he saidwith a flourish. "A sport shirt will sııfficefor my quiet evening of bridge."

A Pasha. distinguished officer of theTıırkish Revolution—I, a stranger!

\Vith the departure of the more formi-dable officials about midnight, waltzes andone-steps gave way to a frolicsome dance,originally imported from izmir (Smyrna).

SHAKESPEARE İN TURKISH

Ankara University İs under construction,though certain portions of it are alreadyfunctioning. Primary and secondaryschools for boys and giriş are modern. Ofthe institutions of specialized instruction,I devoted my attention to the College ofAgriculture, the Music Conservatory, theNormal College, and the ConstructionSchool, ali but the latter co-educational.

Under the guidance of a fruit specialistof the Agricultural Institute I sampledgrade-A dried fruits produced underGovernment supervision. "Our soil pro-duces both tropic and \Vestern fruits,' 'he explained. "Turkey has 52 genericspecies, with 3.500 varieties of those differ-ent kinds; 70 kinds of apples alone; fiftykinds of pears. Of vegetables we have 54separate species. and 750 kinds of grapes!"

Two trips to the Music Conservatorywere not enough; I want to go back. Iheard a young baritone from the plains ofAdana (Turkey's cotton patch) singBrahms, Dvorak, and Faure. I wantto hear again those students from theprovinces, brought ııp as children in theold Türk tradition of music, yet now per-forming Western compositions.

in the Dramatic Art department I sawan act from Romeo and Jullct and a scenefrom Schiller's Dic Raubcr presented \vith-out costume in Tıırkish. Not a word didI ımderstand, but did that matter? I re-acted with bated breath and goose fleshin ali the proper places. Turks are bornactors.

The Ghazi Institute (Normal School)

had last year an enrollment of 244 boys and64 giriş. The State provides free board,lodging, books, clothing, and an allo\vanceof pocket money. \Yhile girl teachers arenot prohibited from marrying, it is requiredthat they give a minimum of eight years'service in the field.

The boys in the Construction School wereerecting an addition to their own schoolbuilding. Every branch of the buildingtrade is taııght.

A MICROBE HUNTER AT HOİIF

Dining in the home of the RockefellerFoundation anti-malaria chief of operationşfor Turkey, I learned of the progress madein cıırbing this malady, long öne of theworst scourges of Asia Minör. \Vithswamp drainage and hygienic educationamong the peasants, the jittering yello\ysickness is gradually losing some of itsterrors. Quinine stili is handed out yearlythrough Government health stations.

My hostess \vas voluble in praise of house-keeping advantages in this land. "Straw-berries are solid honey, and no straw. Thewhite mulberries are a special treat; alsoa small pıırple plum, fit for Hittite kings.Grapefruit from Jaffa have appeared thisyear for the first time. I do most of mymarketing at the Çiftlik stores, outlet forthe products of the Ghazi Model Farm.Meat, dated eggs, pasteurized milk andcream come from the same source.''

There are certain restaurants in Ankaraoperated by the Çif t l ik organization, whichis nonprofit and patterned somewhat onthe co-operative plan. The Ghazi ModelFarm, a couple of miles outside the city,is öpen to the public as an object lessonin modern agricultural methods. Adjoiningthe farm is a public park with the nucleusof a zoological garden and the Sea of Mar-mara and the Black Sea copied to scale inminiatııre.

BLUEBIRD İN THE SKY

"'Those three looping birds up there inthe clouds are girl students taking testsfor pilot Hcenses," said the pretty youngsecretary from the press attache's office.\\*e were standing on the landing field ofthe Bluebird, Aeronautical League of Tur-key. "\Vithin a few days now they willbe commissİoned as officers in the Reserve."

\Vhen ten minutes later they had aliexecuted perfect three-point landings, Iwas presented. Charming and noticeably

OLD PATTERN A N D XE\V IX T U R K K Y

National Geograııhic Society l-'iıılay Photograph b y l'crnarıl F. Rogers, Jr.

r.OLD-BRAIDED " L Ü L A L t O L O K " \ V I L L SOOX DE A MEMORY BESİDE TIIE lîOSPORUSVisitors buy such glittering costunıes tor faııcy-dress balls, picturing harem l i f e a la .Irahiıın A^'/C/.Î.

Tıırkey's \vomen have turned f rom Turkish troıısers to ski pants, sport shorts, and backless bathingsuits—from the seclusion of the Seraglio and haremlik to a f u l l slıare in world l i fe .

THE NATIONAL GEOGRAPHTC M A G A Z İ N E

ISernard F. Kogers. Jr.National ( îeograı ıhTURK1SH COLLECE r.IRLS COMPETE \VITH MODERN" M A C I I I N ' E K Y M Y .MANUAL SKILL

in the Agricnltural College at Ankara this student uses the age-old Ghiordea (Gördes) knot, tiedby hand. Rug weavers, prolıtbited by Mohammedaııism from using pictures, foîlowed geometricalpattems such as those at the left. As each knot is tied, the tııft is pulled down so t hat \vhen the rug isrinished it \vill have t\vo tones, the lîglıter öne caused by the sheen on the side of the yanı and thedarker by the ends ot' the tuîts. Designs önce local are nowwidely copied. Bokhara patterns beingwoven in China, and Afghaıı in Anatolia.

II

© Natkm;d Geographîc Sociely Finlay l 'hotoyraplı l ı y l î t rnan] F. Knıu'r

ANflEN'T İ1OSA1CS, l î L ' K I E D U U K I N C CKN'TURTES OF CUANT.K, NOW COMlî TO L I K K l ' N D I - I R TIII-: C L E A X I X G TOOLS UF A TUKK1SII A R T 1 S A NConstanünople was built upon pagan foundations. some of which ante<late recorded history. Kemal Atatürk rctıamcd t l ı i s first Christiaıı city İstanbul,

but ıııoved his capital to Ankara. Tlıis fin J İs in the grounds of the Great Palace, a nıatclıless royaİ site dating back to Byzantiııe days.


W

IX lîURSA'S GREEN TURBEII SLEEI'S A "GREAT C,EXTLEMAN"\Vith a royal turban surmounting the headstone and Koran verses decorating his catafaîque, Hes

the Çelebi Mobammed I (Plate X). This fifth Oîtoman sultan re-established the Empire A. D. 1413.after Tamerlaııe's savage raids. Smaller tombs are those of his sons.

© National (icographic Society Finlay I'hotographs by l îernar ı i F. Rogers, Jr.

İ11SS T L ' R K I C V TAKES HER EASE IX THE SULTANS' K1OSK, ÖR P A V I L I O XThe original "Divan" was a coııncil of empire. composed of four viziers and military. legal, and

religious ftınctionaries. in ne\v Tıırkey it is a lo\v coııclı on which öne lies to read. This secluded spotin the Grand Palace gardens is now öpen to the public.

VI

OLD PATTERN AND NFAV IX TURKEY

t mf.tr.

£tl K.

=r j -—- <

fil

_—

• >nT *

• r •© National Gcographic Society F ı n l a y I'hotograph by Kernard F. Rogers. Jr.

SLENDER MINARETS FRAME THE SPOT \YIIERE BOSI'ORL'S MEETS GOLDEN HORX

At the extreme l e f t . vi l las line the Asiatic shore where Floreııce Night ingale helped comiort thesick. in the distance the Princes Islands (Kiz i l Adalar) rloat iıı the Sea of [Marmara. At the right,green terraces descend from the Palace of the Sııltans to Seraglio Point. The Nousretîyeh (Victoriotıs)Mosque commemorates.the exterminatioıı of the Jaııi.ssaries in 1826 (Plate IV). Betıveen îts donıe aııdthe parked terraces of istanbul, ships lie anchored at the entrance of the Golden Horn. Napoleoncalled this former capital "the Empire of the World." The late Kemal Atatürk moved the governmentto Ankara to escape Etıropean politics.

VII

THE X A T I O X A L GEOGRAPIIIC MAGAZİNE

© National GeOgTBphİC ."İD

TOIL-WONPhotonrapb l*y Bemard F. Ko^ers, Jr.

\\ 'ATER S.MILES DEFIANCE TO ANATOLIA'S A R I D PLATEAL'in the early dav s of his Presidency Kemal Atatürk urged t l ıat not öne drop of Anatolian water reach

the sea. Flowers, trees, and pools of \vater no\v grace the capital. Beyond the sports neld the newAnkara sıatioıı rises in the ııpper le f t , terminus of the railroad l i n e to İstanbul.

VIII

THE TRANSFORMATION" OF TURKEV 25

shy they appeared, these intrepid, white-uniformed young women. T felt a pang ofşympathy for tlıeir best beaux, doomed towait five years before marriage \vhile theirm -rcthearts serve the State as instructors.

The laughing-eyed director of Bluebird.af ter showing us the hangars and rows ofdainty practice planes. jumped into öne andcircled över our heads as our automobileheaded for Canip İnönü, a dozen miles3way. Upon arrival, he was \vaiting to re-ceive us. From a barren dome, star-and-crescent-marked gliders sprang into briefimmalion (page 15).

Turkey has nine glider schools. Fivehundred and fifty giriş and 550 boys tookthe three months' course last year. Para-chute jumping is inclııded. The mostcapable are selected for training in the Avia-tion School.

A FEMININE LEGISLATOR

"I am only the tail to our domestic kitenowadays," lamented the husband of a chicand witty congresswoman wîth mocksolemnity. "After practicing my profes-sion for nearly twenty years in öne of ourcoastal citİes, I arrive home öne evening tonnd that my \vife has been elected to Parlia-ment. And T have to pack up, move to thecapital and begin life anew! Isn't that ananomaly for Turkey?"

Archeological vvork now going on in Tur-key should yield important contributions tohistorical knowledge. A number of expedi-tions have been digging in various portionsof the land: American, Fren eh. Swedish,English, German, and Turkish (page 27).

I spent many interesting hours with Dr.H. H. von der Osten, German archeologist,now active on the staff of Ankara Univer-sity, whose Researckes in Anatolia, andothcr archeological material on this region,have been published by the Oriental Insti-tute of the Unîversity of Chicago.

Together we tramped up to the summitof the Citadel, \vith its be\vildering mixtureof civilizations. Five mİnutes after pass-ing the People's House,* perched on amound above Atatürk Boulevard, öneplunges from today into the Turkey of for-mer centuries.

We mount through the street of the arti-sans. Coppersmiths whack at their ruddywares \vith staccato hammer stroke; iron-\vorkers' anvils yield a glowing harvest ofplowshares. The fezmakers of former dayshave found other jobs.

There is garlic-breathed haggling, barter-ing, in the grain market. Hand-in-handin pairs wander lonely-eyed hillsmen, shodwith rawhide, oblivious to the changestaking place in the new city at their feet.

Storks, with feather brakes set, wheelslo\vly in search of an evening meal. Offto the south stretches a range of hills.trademarked as Turkish with gleamingcrescents where ıınmelted snow hides incurving scars of their purple sides.

MARATHONS OF DISCOURSE

\Yhether it be the stimulation of Ankara's\vinelike air ör an aversion to wasting timein sleep, I cannot guess, but this city likesto s tay up ali night.

"I have sat as President Atatürk's dinnerguest from nine in the evening until sevennext morning, with hardly a break in theconversation,v a foreign ambassador toldme.

"\Vere you not exhausted?" I inquired,incredulous of such a feat.

"Xot at ali! The magnetism of that ex-traordinary man was such that he coııldanimate a whole tableful of guests to mara-thons of discourse."

The Karpiç Restaurant is a şort of un-official department of the State. Highofficials stage many of their dinners here.

White-aproned, a sardonic smile on hisclever, handsome old face, Karpiç circulatesaboııt the hail, seeing ali, hearing ali,knovving every whim of his guests. in themidst of a course arrives a waiter withsome delicious and extravagant item notprinted on the menu.

"T am not content with the dish you areeating," announces Karpiç. Plates arewhisked away and the new concoction takesits place. No additional charge! So over-generous is he that at intervals come eco-nomic difficultİes; but new capital fromsome mysterious source rescııes him andhe carries on anew.

I saw a characteristic gesture of this be-loved buffoon. The room was höt. Agroup in the corner wished the multipanedwindow by their table opened. Waiterscould not budge it. Karpiç floated into thepicture, wrapped a large napkin about his

*The People's Houses, establi^bed ali över Tur-key by the People's Republican Party, are culturalestablishments designed to supplcmcnt the \vork ofthe schools. They are centers of activity forsports, rural \velfare. fine arts, theatrical pcrform-ances and concerts. libraries and museums, andstudies in various fields of knovvledge.


Kurt and Margot Lubİnski

WEARING A TIME-HONORED HEADDRESS, HE TEACHES THE NEWTURKISH ALPHABET

in many localities it was the young who taught the old. Children, reading themodern script, mystified their parents. But night schools and use of Latincharacters in pcriodİcals rapîdly increased reading.

fist, and, nıounting a chair, pımched out alithe offending panes with stiff right jabs.Bowing with his gallant grin, he declaimed,''Gentlemen, you now have your fresh air! "

\Yith genııine regret I bade good-byeto cheerful Ankara and stepped aboardthe Taurus Express f ör the next lap ofmy journey.

INTO THE LAND OF CAVE DWELLERS

Early rising is the lot of the wayfarer toKayseri (Caesarea Mazaca). At daybreakI set foot on the junction platform ofBoğazköprü. Even at a later hour the name

defies pronuncia-tion.

A few miles ofpuffing d o w n aside spur broughtustomygoal . As"Mozaki'' it wasönce the çap i t alcity of Cappado-cian kings.

The poliçe readthrough my six-line Tıırkish let-ter of c r e d e n -tial, by d in t of\vrinkled b r o w sand w h i s p e r e dc o n f e r e n c e s , ins o m e t h i n g lesst h a n half a nhour, aspeed rec-o r d c o m p a r e dwith some of mylater experiences.

Installed in ah a c k pulled byn e r vou s l itt lehorses, I saw mybaggage dash offin charge of an-other driver. Pro-t e s t s d i d n o tavail. I sat in ahotel hail, drankt h i m b l e f u l s o fbitter-sweet cof-fee. and threaten-ed war in severall a n g u a g e s untilm y v a n i s h e dproperty f i n a l l yreappeared.

Almost everyhotel in Turkey

calls itself "Palas." This öne made troglo-dyte lairs seem like home sweet home.Xext year there will be a really proper"Yeni (new) Palas." I set out in a rattle-trap taxi for the American College (formermission school). nine miles away.

The Xilson family. sisteen years direct-ing genius of the college, made an extraplace at their breakfast table.

Aftervvard I addressed a ha l l fu l of earnestpeasant students. Mr. N'ilson pointed \vitha stick to a wall map. They \vanted to hearabout the Baltic and Xorway's coast;seemed to think that whale meat woııld be

THE TRAXSFORMATIOX OF TURKEY 27

betler food thanbulgur ör pek-mez.

Bulgur is thenational cereal ,homemade, un-advertised. it iswheat, c r a c k e du p, d r i e d onthe roo f , againcracked, toastedin the öven, andfma]ly u s e d asthe basis for sun-dry dishes, aftert h e fashion o fItaly's ever-pres-ent polcnta. Pek-mez is syrup ofthe grape, boileddown to a stickyresidual e s s e n c eand smeared onbread ör m a d einto sauce (page3 2 ) . C h i l d r e nthrive on it; theold grow younger.

COLLEGE EOVS

BRING THEIROWN BEDDING

AND FOOD

One g r o u p ofb o y s in t h i sschool bring theirnwn beddİng andfood. The Turk-ish Governmentf u r n i s h e s tui-tion, öne süi t ofc l o t h e s , a n dbooks. The Statea l s o pays f o röne teacher and a cook. So there are twocooks in the N'ilsons' kitchen, öne for thefamily, the other to prepare the bulgur andother products brought by these studentsi'rom their fathers' steep acres. For theother students who pay, tuition costs $40a year; board is S165.

Kayseri is being rebuilt to nıatch its newindustrial plants, a cotton mili and an air-plane factory. Modern concrete buildingsand paved streets already are appearingamong the time-eroded ruins.

Here at the foot of majestic ErciyasDağı (Mount Argaeus), capped, in Turkey,

I'hutograph by Maynard thven \Vil l iaı ı ıs

THE HITTITE ANCESTOR OF THE COIN EAGLE HAD TWO HEADS

Carved in the bull-headed Sphinx at Hüyük (Euyuk), a spread eaglc has becnstanding on two rabbits for 3,500 years. Russia and Austria. inheriting ıhı-Hittite rcligious emblem, kept the two heads, but en route to the quarter andhalf-dollar. öne head was lost.

by Ararat, where Xoah beached, and afew other peaks. wave after wave of ag-gressive might has hurled its strength:Romans tınder Tiberius, Tigranes (Dik-ran), of Armenia, Shapur (Sapor) the Per-sian, and Justinian, whose building maniacaused it to be revamped as a fortress.

"Our simple agricultural folk are learningnew living standards through the establish-ment of industries," remarked the Governorof the province. "The purpose of the Gov-ernment in industrializing these isolatedcenters is to provide an outlet for nativeproducts of the soil and to spread culture."


-. V. ", . '*• •-»•' *„ .,-v '*• *- •-- Jt— :-2

© Douglas Chandler

NEW DAM AND LAKE GIVE ANKARA \VATER AND COAX THE DESERT INTO BLOOM

Eight mîles from the capital, at Çubuk. Turkish ctiinneers completed the huge reservoir İn 1935.Favored by three and a halt" years of pleasant climate and encouraged by constant watering. thousandsof acacia saplings flourish on the once-barren slopes around the lake and below the dam. On hillsidesholcs were blasted out of solid rock and filled \vith dirt to support the roots of the young trees. Sopopular is the project with visitors that the restaurant (right center) has been outgrown and anaddition soon \vill be erected. The basin at the foot of the dam \vill be the swimming pool.

•••••illiT Ü R K İ Y EBÜYÜK MİLLET MECLİSİ

K u r t and Margot Lubİnski

TU HELP HIM THINK LIKE A EUROPEAN, THE TÜRK DRESSES LIKE ONE

Even at a morning function in Ankara, ful l dress and a silk hat are ofncial, but black vests areworn in daytime. Turkish deputîes here leave the Grand National Assembly after an al'ternoonreccption.


Those graceful airplanes I had seen stunt-ing at Bluebird headquarters (page 1 6 ) ,were fabricated in the Kayseri plant.

Thirty-two thousand spindles \vhirl in theRussian-built cotton plant; 1.024 loomsturn the baled bolls of Adana's höt plaininto almost 32 million yards of goods peryear.

Up from the mines of Zonguldak, onthe Black Sea, from Amasya, Kütahya,Gemerek, and Soma crawl trains of ligniteand soft coal. which, mixed together, poıırat the rate of 40 tons a day into hungryfurnace mouths to supply po\ver for thisfactory. Of the 2,500 employees, a largeproportion are recruited from the localpcasantry. The plant is keyed for 4.000workers.

I;THE TERRIBLE TÜRK" GRO\VS HOMESICKFOR GEORGIA, U. S. A.

I was shown the works by a young Izmir-born Turkish textile engineer. "\Yhere didyou get your Southern accent?" I inquired."Oh, three yeahs in NVth Ca'lina Uni-versity and another three in Geo'gia Tech.They usedta cali me 'the Terrible Türk'down theah. Ah'm homesick right now forsome good Geo'gia cavvn liquor. And, ohboy, those Atlanta gals!"

Occasional devout Mohammedan workersknelt on their prayer rugs in corners of themili rooms, seemingly unconscious of theclalter and movement about them.

To be housed as guest in the visitors'quarter of the Kayseri mili was a novel andpleasant experience. Every comfort wasprovided. Bath water gushed steamingfrom a heater. The beds were \vithoııt theKeti, that wedge-shaped backbone benderof extra mattress imported from centralEurope, prevalent in rnost Turkish hotels.

The company restaurant rang with cheerycommercial voices of dye salesmen fromEngland and Germany. The Balkan repre-sentative of an American reckoning machinecompany was settling the problems of theworld.

M y Turkish Georgia cracker swallows hisnostalgia with his soup and talks shop."The new labor board \vent into effect thisyear. it works as friendly intermediarybetween employer and employee, straight-ening out snags. Strikes are prohİbited inthis man's land. We recently reduced workhours from ten to eight. \Vhat do yousuppose the effect on production has been?An İncrease of 25 per cent!"

Under a midnight f u l l moon we strolledthroııgh the company grounds. Yibrationof looms and acrid cotton-mill smell seemedfantastic anachronisms in this Cappadocianair, chilled by dovvndrafts from MountErciyas" glaciers and snow crests.

Had T arrived t\vo weeks earlier, I couldhave felt the effect of Jovian wrath uponthe puny earth. Kayseri Hes only 100 milesfrom the center of the earthquake of April,1938, which took some scores of lives. Thatmighty tremor left a crack in the earth esti-mated to be forty mİIes long, öne yard wide,and in places a mile deep. An hour's jour-ney from Kayseri entire cliffs plunged frommountainsides into valleys.

A sweet soup, cucumbers stuffed wİthrice, tongue-pricking goulash smotheredunder a \vhitecap of yoghurt—these werejust a few of the light-lunch dishes placedbefore us at midday.

in the forenoon we had visited the school,\vhere 1,300 boys and 100 giriş were in-tensively studying the three R's, Turkish(the new-old speech, chemically purified bythe Language Commission), biology, his-tory, nature, civics, drawing, handwork,music, gymnastics, and domestic science.\Ve had heard "do, re, mi, fa," sung byyoungsters whose ears must be trained to anew musical scale, and individual readingaloııd of \Yestern classics, a striking con-trast to the mechanical babbling of Korangroup intoning, which obtained in the Cali-phate days.

"The parents of these children—-teli meof them. Are they keeping step with theyoungsters?'' I asked.

"They have many lectures and access tothe reading rooms of the People's House,"replied the superintendent. "The older onesare stili clinging to some of their standpattraditions. But in the main they are march-ing with the times. You have seen that aliwear modern dress."

To my sorrow as photographer, I hadobserved it!

"How did they take to the dress reformin inner Anatolia?" I inquired.

"The fez was snatched overnight from ourheads. The vetl went out by gradual de-grees. First the officers' and the schoolteachers1 wives set the example; finally azero hour was set beyond which no veilcould be worn. The die-hards went into athree vveeks' hîding to habituate themselvesto the dreadful ordeal of showing nakedfaces on the street."

30 THE NATIONAT. GEOGRAPHTC MAGAZİNE

PhotOKraph by Bernard F. Rogers. Jr.

GIRLS AND BOYS OF XE\V TüRKEY PERFGRM MASSED GYMNASTICS IX THE STADIUM

Athletics have been fully accepted by the Turks. Favorite joke of old-timers is that in \vhichan effendi, seeinp gentlemen playing tennis, asked. "Can't they hire someone to do that lor them?"Promİnent feature of Ankara is this well-equipped stadium in which sports events are frequentlyheld and Turkey's youth parades. in the forepround, the flaps of Turkey and the People's Party hangside by side. in the distance is the Citadel, rock-founded nucleus for a city datîng back to thePhrvfiians and the Gauls (page 49).

Again at earliest light after my Cappa-docian sojourn I found myself at Boğaz-köprü. At noon, after a spectacular climböver the sugar-crystal angles of the Taurusilountains (Toros Dağlan), and descent tosea level \vhere tropic warmth prevailed, wecame to Adana.

ÖVER THE TAURUS RANGE AND DO\VN

TO THE COTTON PATCH

T had expected to fınd in this city, fourthlargest in Turkey, a generous sprinklingof Eastern atmosphere. Alas, there waslittle to differentiate it from any Balkan örLevantİne tovvn. \Vhere were the camelswhich I had read were to be seen lurchingthrough the streets? \Vhat of the peddlers?To be sure, here was the donkey, not ostra-

cized as in İstanbul (page 9). The caferadios blared forth the wild Turkish melo-dies which are no longer forbidden as theywere in the earlier days of the Kemal regime.But I felt that Adana had somehow let medown.

"Justinian is supposed to have bııilt partof this bridge," my hotel oracle informedme as our auto rolled över the many-archedstone structurewhichspans the Seyhan River.

in ten minutes we drew up before theCotton Institute in its green setting of trees.Since 1931 the director has been ernployedby the Turkish Government to irnprove thequality of its cotton.

"\Vhen I arrived, about 90 per cent of thecotton raised was Yerli, a closed-boll typevvhich legend says was brought here by Aİex-

THE TRAXSFORMATIOX OF TURKEY 31

lüHraph from "Fotoğrafta Türkiye"

JASON'S ARGONAUTS PASSED ÇORUH SEEKING THE GOLDEN FLEECE

Because colonİsts from the lonian cities lonR preccded the Ottomans, Greek is the history ofthis Black Sea coast. Xear by is Trabzon, \vhere Xenophon. Greek soldîer and travel writer, reachedthe Black Sea. Beyond lav Colchis, where the crew of the Argo secured the prize. Some scholarsthink it \vas not a fleece but a fertilizing rain cloud brought back from Batumi's rainy shores to sun-parched Hellas. ör Greece.

ander the Great. The renıaining 10 percent was a mistııre of degenerated öpen bollimported a few score years ago from Egyptand America.

UA Government-üperated farm of 3,200acres was established here. Pıırpose? Toproduce püre open-boll seed for distribu-tion to the farmers. On it we planted avariety called 'Cleveland.1 imported fromSouth Carolina. Our program called for aminimum of 1.000 tons of the new plantingseed per year. But by 1938 the increasein production of the new variety had be-come so great that 6,000 additional acreswere planted by private farmers under oıırcontrol to fiil the pure-seed demand.

"Yerli, though of short fiber, fills a defi-nite need in the spinning industry, and, asit does not cross-pollinate with the open-

boll variety, its production is continued."Here was a man whose snıiling face had

reason to shine with zest of accomplishment.We drove to some of the small, İndividualfarms where primitive methods of cultiva-tion stili prevail; saw land being plowed\vith a moldboard plow and later stirred\vith a steel-shod wooden plow pulled byoxen. "These chaps will gradually learnto improve their methods by the esampleand education offered at our model farm,''predicted the cotton chief.

Driving back into the city, he pointedout groups of pleasure seekers in a grove.Some had brought gramophones and werelistenin^ to Turkish records. ''That is anovel sight for Turkey. Family picnics\vere unheard of under the old regime. XowMr. and Mrs., children, and assorted rela-


Photoeraph by Her ma n H. Kreider

HE SKIMS OFF IMPURITIES İN GRAPE-JUICE MOLASSES

A thick syrup made from grapes is common svveetcning amone Turkish peas-ants. First the grapes are treaded down in a wine press. From long woodentrousrhs the juice draİns through holes at different levels to hold back the dregs.The syrup maker then skims off the scum from the boiling liquid (page 27).

tives swarm över the countryside on holi-days, for ali the world like a nature-lovingAmerican family.''

BY RAIL TO ST. PAUI/S TARSUS

F rom Adana a branch railroad line takesyou fifty miles över the teeming Adanafiatland throııgh St. Paul's Tarsus to theport town of Elersin, Much of the cottonwhich was formerly shipped from İts shal-low harbor now climbs över the snowyTaurus Mountains to Kayseri and Konya.

I Hngered only long enough, before re-turning to Tarsus, to visit the To\ver of the

Virgin, a ruin ona rocky islet nearthe coast; to eatmy fiil of fresh-p i c k e d oranges,and to attend alectııre on "TheD u t i e s of X a -tionalism1' at thePeople's House .

in St. P a u l ' sdav the CydnıısRiver (now Tar-sus ) flowed intoa l a g o o n fromthe M e d i t e r r a -nean. Cleopatracame h e r e tovisit M a r k An-tony. Justinianc h a n g e d thec o u r s e of theCydnus to avoidflooding the cîtywhen t h e rainscame down.

Until the\Vorld\ V a r ali over-land traffic camethrough Tarsus.X'ow it is a for-gotten patch ofgreen with relicsof dead civiliza-tions rubbing el-bows w i t h newschools and pub-l i c b u i l d i n g s .T w o workshopsfabricate hand-made felt mate-rials, the i r pro-prietors assertingd e s c e n t from

tentmakers of Paul's dav.On the campus of Tarsus American Col-

lege are remains of Attic, Doric, and loniccolumns: in the cellar is a cubicle known as''St. Paul's room," authenticity doubtful.St. Paul's Gate, at the edge of the town, isanother quite harmless concession to visi-tors' demands for historical relics.

Tarsus Park is the show place of the en-tire district. î sat with a young Swissteacher from the American College. Mid-day sun could scarcely penetrate the thickshade of the orange and grapefruit trees.About us flocked wild doves. A waiter

THE TRANSFORMATKJN OF TURKEY 33

broııght g la s sesof airan, a thirstquencher pecul-iar to this region,c o n s i s t i n g o fy o g h u r t (thickfermented mi lk)a n d w a t e r .c h t ı r n e d to afrothy head andsalted.

The grape-fruit from thesetrees, the first tobe grown in Tur-key, were sent toPresidentAtatürkas a gİft. Peoplecome f r o m aliöver the countryto see the park.

I spent a nightas gues t in theA m e r i c a n Col-lege and gleanedmuch f r o m thedirector.

Census dav inTurkey is a davof rest. Every-b o d y b u t t b ecensııs takers isreqııired by lawto spend the en-tire day at home!There is the in-ciclent of a Tar-sus man who satin his d o o r w a ywith his feet onthe p a v e m e n t .Poliçe made himpull t hem in, onthe theory that he was technically on thestreet!

Hygiene regulations h a ve their anomalies.Ali meatshops are legally required to bescreened. Duty-conscious, the butcherwiremeshes his front door, but the backdoor and ali \vindows are left öpen to thevagaries of flying things.

The Red Crescent, which is Turkev's RedCross, has just celebrated its 61st birth-day. it derives its revenue from themonopoly of mineral \vaters and from thatof certain imported drugs. holds tag days.and selis stamps—öne vveek per year everyletter sent through the post must carry a

OLD BROADCASTING AND NEW

I'huiugraph by Herman H. KreiderRECKPTION ON A MINARET

The local Teachers' Club has anchored its \vireless aerial to this spirc atAkşehir. "Twelve o'clock; courtesy of Ankara Broadcasting Station," says theradio. "Noon. Come to prayer," cries the müezzin.

Red Crescent stamp. Tt afso raises fundsby benefit balls and entertainments.

"What of superstitions? \Vhat of theEvil Eve?" T asked my hoşt. ''Look at thehorses and donkeys," he answered. "Arethey not wearing, as of old, blue beads andbits of red cloth on their bridles? Religionsmay come and go, but superstition remainswith us."

Traveling from Tarsus to Konya, AfyonKarahisar. and İzmir, öne remoıınts theTaurus Mountains. At a junctİon on thestımmit the western line leads off from theAnkara-İstanbul line. The plain of Konya,intensively cultivated in wheat, coııld feed

34 THE NATIONAL (İEOGRAPHIC MAGAZİNE

Photügraph by Maynard O\ven \Vil l iams

LIKE A PIPE DRKA1I IS THE HIGH ACROPOLIS OF BLACK OPIUM CASTLE

When raîlway followed road f rom istanbul to Konya, its rails led, as the \vagon ruts had, to the bazaarbelow this rock-p'erched medieval Turkish fortress. Afyon Karahisar formerly had a large Armenian popula-tion and a group of dancîng dervishes. Local residents speak of the toıvn as Afyon (opium). omittine theKara (black) and Hisar (castle). (Page 39.)


an entire country. As yet it is the domainof vast herds of cattle and sheep tendedby shepherds in sheepskin capes.

Their rangy, cream-colored dogs, wear-ing long-spiked, wolfproof collars, playa daily game with the traİn. Briefly leav-ing their woolly charges, they race madlyon a parallel course until the last car hasûutdistanced t hem. Then, acknowledgingdefeat with optimistle tail, as much as tosay, "Next trip I'll beat you," they returnto the job.

RAILROADS NOW ALL-TURKISH

The express trains on this line carry noregular diner, but ha ve a "Vagon Büfe," re-modeled from a \vooden boxcar with a şortof caboose lookout at the rear.

This crude conning tower, reached by ashort inside stairway, is fitted with a small:able and two seats. I was permitted tomake it my special eyrie throughout thetrip. The smoke from the laboring engine,5treaming back in dense clouds against theforward window, lent mystery to the•zlimpses of backward-rushing rock, cliff,and rolling steppe.

An inspector of the railroad, chance com-panion över this route, cheerfully furnishedme with details of the development ofTurkish rail systems under the Republic.

"At the time of the Lausanne Treaty wehad no roads of our own. There was a totalof about 2,000 miles of detached lines be-longing to France, England, and Germanv.Över these we ran our trains. Many wereshort stretches leading from ports intonear-by agrictıltural regİons, without con-nection from öne to the other.

"After the Republic. our Governmentbought ali lines from their original owners.Today there is. İn ali Turkey, not öne milein foreign hands. We have built since then,\vith Turkish materials and Turkish engi-neers, about 2,500 miles of railroad. \Vorkis stili going on. \Yhen another 2.000 mileshave been added, the country will have acompletely adequate network."

Xear villages and towns the fields werebeing cultivated. Peasant women wearingbaagy trousers of brightly printed cotton:' >th worked beside their men; babiesz>iayed contentedly on the ground under the

:e of an occasional bush. \Vater buffalo,5waying on clumsy splayfeet, pulled prirnî-tive handmade plows through stubborn

rth.Third-class compartments of the train

were jammed by passengers without visiblesign of baggage, migrating westward tosections of seasonal occupatİon. One wasthe ovvner of a crooked-necked lu te;his stubby fingers flew över the strings,providing a jangling accompaninıent tohigh-pitched singing. At every stop aliswarmed out like grasshoppers and drankwater at the public fountains.

Anatolian railroad stations are a welterof life at train time. Small children laborunder baskets of eggs, which they profferin grubby hands to perspiring travelers inthe windows. Yendors seli spring waterfrom bright ceramic jars. milk, peanuts,hazelnuts, figs, bottles of raki (potent aperi-tif), neat squares of white cheese, breadrings studded with sesame seed, olive-woodtrays, boxes, porcelain wares, and greatplatters of baked lambs' heads, crisp, brown,and repulsive.

Obsequious mongrel dogs, apparentlyknowing the schedule to the minute, meeteach train. The conductor opens a news-paper parcel and feeds them with admirableEmpartiality.

A SIX-POUND TAX FOR A ONE-POUNDSQUIRREL

At öne stop I had been sorely tempted tobuy a tame squirrel \vith a wee leather col-lar and aluminum chain, ali for the bargain-counter price of 80 cents (öne Turkishpound). Another passenger acquired thebeguiling creature. Upon arrival of the con-ductor, the unfortunate owner learned thathe would have to pay a $5 tax for trans-porting an uncaged wild animal in the trainör abandon his purchase. At the next halthe detached collar and chain, ruefullypocketed them, and consigned his pet toliberty.

The cotton milis of Konya and Ereğliwere running on dav and night shifts. Likeevery Anatolian town I visited, these twohad their new schools, People's House, andverdant parks watched över by a bronzestatue of the Ghazi. in vain I searchedfor scenes reminiscent of the picturesqueOttoman Turkey.

Today no dervishes in pointed hats whirlin fanatic ecstasy. Since the disbandingof their sects, some have been absorbed intouseful occupations; others live as harmlessmendicants.

Lying between Konya (the Iconium ofthe ancients) and Ankara is the great saltlake of Tuz, near Koçhısar. it has a sıırface

MJ" 'SiaSuN ' .[

'j JII p.la1ll| ,IA|ı.|l..||l> V"!> p.l"| lııılllîln l| ,|'.i| ı . l ., M

ijb.»|Uo.>j .14) ju s.\\IKUI; \ıs .ıi|| .IIMIJ -.[.ııj|<ı .mı\ (it.ı I-..M ı puı

Î1IV.-I 'n-NOI.IV-VMMlNI S.VN'MAIVS ÎIOIAO A'I,-I '\I\'1IHH QXV L-I.)

Fhotograph l>y Ki>cnstaedt f ronı l'isTHE CITY IS NOW CAT.LKD İZMİR, BUT THK FRUITS ARE STILL SMVRNA FIGS

Mctropolis of Anatolia, izmir has lont; bccn a busy port for fip:s, raisins. tobacco, opium. and carpcts. it is the "eve of Asia Minör," famous as the hnme of the sweetand tender Levantine fifts (page 40). The white headcloth \vorn by thc sorters is not counted as a veil, but can. when modesty ör confusion demands, be used as öne.Outside thc cities sııch headdrcşs, sometimes colorcd ör black, is almost ıınivcrsal.


Phutouraph by Maynard Üıven Wil l iam=

VOLCANO AND RIVER, RAİN AND \VIND, SHAPED THIS TROGLODYTE STOREHOUSE

First Mount Argaeus erupted. covering the region with lava and pumice. Then the Kizil River erodedthe valley floor, leaving isolated coluınns \vith capstones ol hard lava. \Vhen thesc protecting capstones droppcdfrom the pinnaclcs. rain and \vind pointed the cones. Then the Cappadocian troglodytes (hole creepers ör cavemen) carved out living rooms, storerooms. and chapels, now partly displaced by above-ground buildings. Noman knows the age of this cone at Matşan. near Ürgüp, stili used t'or storage.


PhotoRraph by Eisenstaedt f rom PisCIGARETTE GIRLS İN SMYRNA PREPARE TOBACCO RATHER THAN SELL ÎT

Small-leaf Turkİsh tobacco is the Republic's chief export, 65.000 tons in a good year. Thcseneat, agile handvvorkers are paid on a piece\vork basis and for a day's work earn about as much asthree meals cost in a popular restaurant. The princİpaİ tobacco district now remaining to Turkey ison the humid slopes along the Black Sea. Although unveiled, the giriş do not üke to sho\v theirfaces before a camera (Plates XV and X V I ) .

of a thousand square miles—yet a greatestdepth in \vinter of about sixty inches! insummer it evaporates, leaving a layer ofsalt a few inches thick. Very primitive isthe present exploitation. Just as they ha vedone for centuries, laborers scrape up theresidue and place it in sacks. Thus to themarket it goes on camel back. Present pro-duction is some 30.000,000 pounds per year;modern equipment will shortly be installed.

So the camel stili has a job in Anatolia.His price. hovvever. has dropped sincethe advent of the railroad. Actually, in alimy thoıısands of miles of Turkish travel.I saw but öne caravan, and only twicenoticed camels grazing in small herds. Tnvain T looked for those solid-wheeled. groan-ing carts described by Melville Chater inhis article "East of Constantinople." *

Pressure of time forbade my visiting thetomb of Xasr-ed-Din Hodja. Turkish equiv-alent of Germany's rustic 14th-centuryjester, Tyll Eulenspiegel. Nasr-ed-Dinlived fi ve hundred years ago; his whimsical

*See NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC MAOAZISE. May,1923.

anecdotes are stili to be heard \vherevermerry tales are told. Before his tomb atAkşehir stands a high gate. heavily pad-locked. There is no fence ör wall about thegrave, and the gate stands detached anduseless. a burial jest for the undying jester.

A BLACK TO\VER İN WHITE POPPY FIELDS

Afyon Karahisar is the principal centerof Turkey's opium production. Roundabout the town are fields white with poppies.Karahisar, "the black tower/' was in oldendays added to Afyon's name (meaning "opi-um") in order to distinguish it from anotherAfyon. Its black tower is a bold, Gibraltar-shaped pinnacle of rock surmounted by anancient fortress (page 34).

Famous for ages have been the healingwaters of Afyon. Bottled, they are sold astable water throughout ali Turkey. ToAfyon's modern sanatoriums come healthseekers from Mediterranean and Black Seatowns.

"Telegram for you, sir." A boy pokeda folded slip of paper into my hand as Isat in öne of izmir's movie palaces. it was


my first introductîon to the yilderim tele-gram of Turkey. Yilderim means "light-ning," and well cleserved is the name, formessages are usually delivered in about tenminutes from their point of origin. Ali linesare cleared. The cost is five times that ofregular service.

LlHow did yon find me here?'' I asked."Oh, your hotel clerk gave the hint. Some-îimes it's not so simple, but we kave to lo-cate the recipient if humanly possible."

Turkey's post knows no special deliveryfor letters, and its big centers have no pneu-matic telegraph, as do Paris and some othercities.

For three days I scoured İzmir and itssurrounding country with a guide assignedme by the governor because of his com-mand of French, a comnıand \vhich prob-ably encompassed ali of a hundred words!Like many men of few words, he used themoften.

it was not the season for activity in thelarge fig-packing estabüshments. I re-gretted that I could not see this sight andhear the mild bickerings and chatter of thethousands of men, women, and giriş whoperform the work.

Tn from the Bİg and Little Menderes Val-leys come the figs, sun-dried, packed incamel's-hair sacks. At the Bourse they arebought by the exporting houses and takento the packing plants. Here they are fıımi-gated, hand-graded accordİng to size andquality, and manipıılated into foıır classes:lokums. pulled, fayers, and natural. Lo-kums are worked into cubes. The pulledare pulled out and rounded into plump fru i tshape. Layers are split, opened in crescentform, and packed in boxes. Naturals aresimply packed in linen bags (page 37).

\Vorkers are obliged to wear spotlesswhite overalls and to cover the hair withlinen caps. Thorough hand-vvashing withpermanganate of potash solution is com-pulsory before handling the figs—a com-forting thoııght to the ultimate consumer.

Plants are today equipped with loud-speakers; between radio programs. gossipdrones locustlike through the busy rooms.Tales of Xasr-ed-Din Hodja are retold asthey have been for half a thousand years.

Thoııgh the fig-growing valleys lie fiftymiles ör more from İzmir, the figs are com-mercially known by the name of the portfrom which they are shipped.

Cııttings from Aydın trees, planted inSan Joaquin Valley, California. produce

figs sold in America under the name '"Cali-myrna."

Sun-dried raisins, the famous Smyrnasultanas, are, like the figs, sold at theBourse and taken to the packing plants.l"p-to-date macbinery does the cleaning, re-moval of stalks. bleaching, and packing. Atthe end of August the season starts: the fin-ished product is svvallowed by the ironmavvs of freighters which plow with salt-caked smokestacks through the Seven Seasto the vrorld's markets. Phylloxera hasdone much damage to the Tıırkish crop.

Turkey has not until now produced wîneintensively. The wine, under Governmentmonopoly, is of good quality, but lackingin variety of types. Plants for increasingthe output are now being built at Manisaand İzmir.

İzmir's \vater-front area, destroyed byfire in 1922, is now growing İnto a newmodel city. Here is situated the permanentshow groıınd of the yearly InternationalFair (page 36). As in Ankara, there is atower for parachute-jumping practice.

A COLLECTOR OF KUGS TUENSBOAR HUNTER

T had a rendezvous with an amateurcollector of rugs. He expatiated ruefullyon the decline and fail of Tıırkish handi-craft under the impact of machine-agementality.

"Aniline dyes, mixîng their harsh pig-ments \vith the new philosophy, have kil ledthis industry pro tem. Connoisseurs havecleaned the markets of treasures dyed \vithvegetable colors. \vhich were woven in Kula.Gördes, Bergama, Lâdik, and Konya acentury ör more past. Those of mixedvegetable and aniline colors, made a gen-eration ago, are not uncommon.

"The chemically pignıented articles com-ing from the village weavers of today wouldcause their great-grandfathers to weep.\\i\\ they take the time and trouble tosearch the forests and fields for the hiddenplants? Xo. Forty years ago the PersianShah ordained that anyone using anythingbut vegetable dyes should suffer severe pen-alties (Plate II).

"I have given up rug hunting now andemploy my spare time in the more escitingsport of shooting wild boar. These beasts,fieet and tusky. are so common hereaboutsîhat, after they are killed, we merely cutoff the hams and leave the rest of thebody. They are also plentiful around Bursa

OLD PATTERN AXD X KW IX TL'RKEV

.1 l ieugraı ıhic Suciely Fİnlay Photograph by Bcrnard F. Rogcrs, J r.

UE FEEL AS F K E E İN MY MOSQTE AS IF OUT OF DOORS," SAID MI11RIMA TO HERFATHER'S "11ICHELANGELO"

. the Armenian mos(|iıe bui lder, carried out the wishes of Soliman the Magnificent'a daughter±j Mihrima mosque, noted for its many \vmdo\vs and flood ot light. it stands on the highest h i l l.~;anbul. near the Adrianople Gate, through which Mohammed the Coıi(|iıeror's troops entered ther. Pointing to ilecca. the prayer niche bet\veen the candlesticks occupies the site of a Christ ian mon-

7. From the pulpit, ör mimbar (right), İluslem leaders recite the profession of Faİth each Friday.

IX

[•'inhy Pbotosraoh l .y Bernard F. RotNational Geocraph, Tin \ A.S ULl M l ' l

LieııUemaıı (P at« \ r l ) . 'l iUnder the whıtc domc ol tlıc < ın-ı-n "l nrhcl ı fleıt). surroımded l > v lustrous Kütahya

Unaer ı ı ı u \ \ L L L L C

For cetıtııries Turkey îay under the speîl of "k i smet," ör fate. Suchsuperstitîons are now discouraged. but as an amusement tlıîs bird is stiliallınved to choose from Imndreds of slips of paper an omen tor clıildren.

inlay PhotOg;raph3 l ı y Jlı-rtıard F. Kogcrs, J r.

CI.ÜC.S, KASILY KEMOVKD, X EV İÜ 14 KXTER IIÜMK ÖR MOSQUE

\\'oodeıı slıoes are worn in the Turkish bat l ı , during religiöflS abllltions,and on muddy days. Tlıis Bursa cubblcr, Haj j i Baba, makes tlıe soles ofhis sabots uf \vood. the straps uf leatlıer.

uıojj auıj uı ijıi3j aı SB.Uıvü d\v 's'KioıiH ':-i(ivîrj

rı:-ii[ ,ı.\' \'vıvnos .-10 S:-II>IOJ,DIA :-ıııı OHNHVK ÎIKOM nrıfisoıv sır-u. .ınu 'mnv 'ivıı.iT\

Tnı>ı.L v J,O

c Societ? Fİnlay Pbotograph l ı y Ilernanî F. Iloeers, Jr.

FI,O\YKKS A N D FRÜIT l î R K U I T H N A STREET İN 11URSA, TIIE FIRST C A l ' I T A T , OF T I I I - : O'I'TOMAN'S

This hi l ls ide rcsurt is famed for its silk culture and thernıal l>aths. Despite chil l winds f ru ı ı ı the Black Sea and sııuwy Olympus, tlıe ski fıelds of\ v h i r l i hrinp: ı u \ v l i f e i n l l n - :ılj;tııdoııed i T i p i l a l . many ı>f i ts hoııses are f l imsy, ı ınlîke Ankara's ultramodern aparlnıcnts. Bursa resisted a ten-year siejie

AX

S. Ö

.

THE N A T I O N A L GEOGRAPHIC M A G A Z İ N E

U L T R A M U 1 ) K R \ A N K A R A , DRV \VEEUS HEAT l ' K I M I T I V E OVENSTlıis Turkish wotnan, \vhose family bad resided in Bulgaria for generations. has returned to Anatol ia

and settled at Etimesut. Sbe wears trousers, abandoned in most of the republic.

National (Icogruplı îc Socîcty Finlay PhotogrBpfel f ı y l ît-rnarJ F. Rogers, Jr.NOONDAY AP.LUTJONS, FOSTEUED J İ V R K L I G I O N , XOW SERVE A N INDUSTRIAL AGE

Before eating î l ıeir lutıclıes, wotnen factory \vorkers are washing their haııds at a basili in thefactory courtyard, whîch resembles the fountains in the moscjues. Althoııgh the veil is discoııraged, the\vhite headcloth can be used to hide the face.

X V I


ir--} through the wild country of the Darda-" - .tr~.

Because Moslems won't eat wîld boar, it~ a cheap and common food among the

Christians of istanbul.Having spent interesting hours in the

-.ne new schools of izmir, I set off acrossthe gulf (Nice's Bay of Angels is no more_-_ıCİous in its theatrical blııe curve) to visit:he Xormal College.

The sun vras setting back of the garden•s-all. After photographing groııps of black--yed maîdens, we held a soiree there in the-•t-en garden, the kind, elderly director aid-. me to interview the giriş about their

hupes and pıırposes in the profession for^•hich they were preparing.

"Marriage? Xo. not for at least the nexteisht years. Turkey needs teachers. \VeVe, ' t to carry on the battle for enlightenrnentamong the poor. backward people İn ourprovincial areas."

"Vou are invited to stay with us tosupper," the director announced.

in the large dining hail, he and I were:wo masculine islands in a sea of brownfemininity. When the omelet. yoghurt, andcompote were finished. the 180 young ladiessave a concert. They sang ancient andmodern Turkish folk songs, ending \viththe Hymn of Youth and the RepublicanXatİonal Anthem.

A TRIP \VITH TOBACCO BUYERS

From izmir I journeyed by rail ten hoursto Bandırma in a compartment with fourTurkish tobacco buyers. At evening theyopened hampers and spread out, on an im-provised buffet of suİtcases, a cold supperof baked chicken. salads, hard-boiled eggs,long-shaped heads of sweet green lettuce,and the inevitable bottles of potent raki\vhich, when mixed with water, turnsmilky-\vhite.

The night boat from Bandırma, Sea ofMarmara outlet for the products of the richvalleys of this region, was a floating sheeppen, chicken crate, and cow stall. Deckswere piled high with ribby, red sides of beef.Everything that had not göne the way ofbarnyard flesh was bleating, cackling,crowing ör mooing. Other available deckspace was littered with spravvling familiesof handsorne Anatolian peasants.

Two weeks after I made this run, a newship, to take the place of this ancient craft,was brought into service. German ship-yards are just completing two more passen-

ger boats for delivery to Turkey. The jour-ney between istanbul and Bandırma maynovv be made in comfort.

A second stay in istanbul, and I was offagain to the hinterland, by way of Bursa,Turkey's first capital unti l Murad I re-moved the government to Edirne f Adrîan-ople). ( and Plates VI, X, andXIV.)

Today these Bursa uplands are the play-grotınd of \vinter-sports enthusiasts from alithe eastern Mediterranean regions.

Silkworms toil in mulberry trees throughBursa's hmrriant countryside. A recentlyestablished artificial-silk factorv offers com-petition to Bursa's silk milis.

Ailing emperors and commoners of Bi-thynian, Byzantine, and Ottoman epochsknew the thermal springs of Bursa. Todaymodernly equipped, Iuxurious baths serveTürk and Balkan visitors.

FEATS OF STRENGTH İN THE STADIUM

To see the May 19th celebration, I mademy way from Bursa by autobus, six hoursof dust-choked bumping, to a jıınction, andthence by rail önce more to the capital.

This yearly athletic meet in the stadiumof Ankara commemorates Kemal Atatürk'sdeparture from İstanbul to Anatolia in1919, first step toward the freeing ofTurkey from its Caliphate shackles.

Upon the circular sports field several thou-sand well-trained athletes of both sexes wentthrough a program of drills and contests(page 30). The Bluebird chief (page 16)spiraled and looped in the sky above. Asııdden lul l in the midst of the esercises,followed by prolonged cheering, announcedthe appearance of Kemal Atatürk.

An afternoon at Çubuk Dam and thegreat artificial reservoir completed in 1935(page 28), a farewell dinner at Karpiç's,and my Anatolian adventures were ended.Returning to istanbul, T bade adieu to itsslender spires and re-entered Europe byautobus through Thrace to Edirne, nearthe Bulgarian frontier.

From early morning to midafternoon welumbered över a treeless, uninviting ex-panse of rolling hills. Avoiding the road.of t en too deeply rutted for use, we rana haphazard course along the edges ofvast fields of wheat and tobacco. Wholehamlets of peasantry worked shoulder toshoulder at their planting—men, women.and half-grown children together.

On a straightaway stretch came a sudden


tfraph by Bernard F, Koaers, Jr.

THE SOUND OF RUNNING WATF.R MINGLES WITH MOSLEM PRAYERS AT BURSA

Fish svvİm in the basin as sun and rain come through the öpen roof of the Great Mo*que.

tvvisting, grating lurch of our crowded vehi-cle, and merrily uff thruugh a \vheattieldraced our two left rear wheels.

An hour's sweltering pause for repairsplunged me into friendly discourse withan inspector of the Tobacco Monopoly.

Together we visited öne of the new modelvillages in which the Turkish Governmentis resettling colonies of its people. Since1923, some 712,000 such Turks have beenre-established within the boundaries of theRepublic and put to self-sustaining work(Plates XV and X V I ) .

in the factory of the Tobacco Monopoly.cigarettes were being spewed out of ma-

chines with uncanny speed. Samsun andİzmir are the two chief centers of tobaccogrowing. The United States imports mil-lions of pounds of the Turkish crop (page39 and Plate X V ) .

"\Vill you come back and visit us again?"called an acquaintance from the platformas the train rolled out shortly before dawn.

"Of course!" I shouted back. "Elbette!"—-echoing the most-repeated word I hadheard in this fonvard-marching land. Cansuch a thing be done? Can we win in thiscomplicated game of l ife? Of course!

in my memories of Atatürk's republic Iinscribe it beside the star-and-crescent.

INDEX FOR JULY-DECEMBER. 1938. VOLUME RE AD Y

Index for Volume LXXI\ - (July-Uecember. 1938) of the NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC M.AGA/INK wi l l bemailed upon request to members who bind their copies as works of reference.

national geographic - january 1939-

Documents

r c h i t e c t u r

n e y langleythirty

childeen n

w o n d e r syouve

pages of illustratons

stevard rousedm e

lef t spring

t trees shovving onlytheir