nagesh project report
TRANSCRIPT
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I would like to thank Mr. S.C. Khajuria who allowed
me to enter the factory and introduced me to everyone
in the factory. He is a very cooperative person and his
cooperative attitude helped me to complete our project
in a very efficient way. Lastly, I am also obliged to
Mrs. Sukhpal Kaur for providing me valuable
suggestions.
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COMPANY PROFILE
NAME OF THE COMPANY: Star Suiting
ADDRESS: PhaseVII, Focal Point, Near Surindera Paper Mills, Ludhiana
FACTORY AREA: 1,75,000 Sq. feet
Established in 2007 byMr. Karan Taluja
BUYERS: DU PAREILAU MEME, CATIMINI,
KENZO, G.S.A,
OXBOW, SARL WAM.
PRODUCTIONCAPACITY: 8000
Pieces per day. (Fine
knit / coarse knits).
With the capacity of3600 Spindles
Manufacturing 2500 kg of various Wool/Acrylic/Silk/Viscose blends Total earnings 50 CRORE, where 40 CRORE from exports. Certified with ISO 9001:2000 for quality system management. Company has own show room at Civil Lines, Ludhiana FOR RETAIL SALE. For buyers STAR SUITINGS (INDIA) KNITWEAR has a SHOW ROOM.
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WORKFORCE:
Employee detail male female
Supervisor/Manager 15 -Administrative staff 28 -
Q.C 4 -
Engineer staff 2 -
Workers 1201 112
1250 112
This unit has a production capacity of approximately. 12 lakh pieces annually for coarse and fine
knits each .This company in Northern part of India is a composite unit for producing all types of
sweaters & T-shirts.
Most of the Fabrics are made in house like Single as well as Double Jacquard, Fleece, Velour,
Terry, Flat bed Rib, Auto Striper, Lycra, Waffles, Thermals, Mesh, Shinny, Fabrics, Lurex, P.
Knit, Honey Combed, Pique, Self Jacquards, Anti Pilling, Polar Fleece, Boukley, Brushed
Fabrics, & Ribs etc.
The company was adjudged biggest exporter of the Year in 1968 of woollen garments.Consecutively for two years.
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THE PROCESS : MERCHANDISISNG
Firstly I discuss about the merchandising process the points to be followed by a
merchandiser are as follows:-
ENQUIRY/PRESENTATION PLANNING INTERMEDIATION SHIPMENT
First order is received from the buying house then Costing per piece and its initial fits are done,
Enquiry is made from the old order and Instructions in the enquiry are given like Advertisement
Sample, Hang Tag, Hangers, and Packaging Instruction etc.
To attract a new BUYER, A Request to various buying houses is sent. All the products are
shown to them and they are provided with all the necessary information.
FABRIC COST: (actual cost of the fabric)
BASIC TRIM: (cost of accessories like Zipper, button, Hangtag, Hanger, Label, Size Label, LD
bag, wash label etc)
ADDITIONAL TRIM: embroidery, satin ribbon, dory, beads, and lasses etc
FABRICATION: tailoring cost for the production of per piece
PROFIT: depends upon company policy and its reputation
There is usually a Mediator between the buying house and the firm. To get approvals for the size
set, advertisement sample and pre production samples are Sent to them. Daily production charts,
finishing reports are also sent. Then if approved a call is made for a pilot run from initial hundred
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to two hundred pieces . Then initial, middle, pre final and subsequently final inspection request is
offered.
Lastly, final nod from the counter part (i.e. quality assurance man from the buying house) is
made and then he requires packaging list and in-voice.
Merchandising department
Star Suitings (India) has two units one is at PhaseVII, Focal, Point, NEAR Surindra Paper
Mills, Ludhiana. It comprises of all the departments spinning, knitting, dyeing and printing. One
of the main departments is merchandising department which is in Focal Point. It contains 10-12
merchandisers. I was under Mr. CHAMAN LAL (Head Merchandiser). He guided us throughout
the project.
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Organizational Structure
Chief head Mr. Karan Taluja
Sampling manager Mr. Durga Dass
Assistant sampling manager Mr. Ibrahim khan
Senior merchandisers Mr. RAMAN
Assistant merchandisers Mr.Vijay, Mr.Mandeep
Workers
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General workflow of Merchandising
Department
Vendor first receives the purchase order (P.O) from the buyer.
Then DCPO (Distribution center purchase order) is received.
Fabric is referred with the sample and sent for approval.
When fabric is approved it goes through:-
FPT (Fabric package test)
& GPT (Garment package test)
After samples of FPT & GPT are approved Proto sample is sent for approval
First bulk sent for approval
Comments received for first bulk
Fit sample is sent after first bulk
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After approval of fit sample seal sample is sent. This includes (specs, measurements,
construction, seams etc.)
Add sample is sent if requirement from buyer
Pre-production sample is sent
TOP (Top of production) sample is sent for approval
Pre- production meeting is held with all the managers. If faults observed is corrected there and
then.
Cutting
Stitching
Inspection
Finishing
Packing
Final Inspection
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Various stages in which approvals are needed
by production merchandiser
Once the sampling file is forwarded to the production merchandiser, they coordinate and
communicate with the buying agency. Production merchandiser asks for the calculation of fabric
consumption. Master Ji calculates the fabric requirement and fabric is ordered to unit for knitting
and dyeing. Knitting department is first instructed for the first bulk in actual colour, layout & any
wash or test required by the buyer. Once the first bulk is approved knitting is given go ahead and
comments are incorporated if any. Side by side bulk trims are ordered from the recommended
source. Fabric comes to production floor after going through FPT. Next step of the merchandiser
is to send fit sample, sealer, yellow tag for approval mainly for construction and measurements.
Trim cards are made for their approval. Side by side strike off for embroidery and mocks (sleeve
& rib) are crossed to the buyer for approval. First week is the lead time for awaited comments.
After this PP sample (from FOB) is send for approval. Pre production meeting is held at this
stage to match the actual material with the standards andcomments are given if any. Deadlines
are given to all the departments in order to chase shipment date. Time and action is prepared by
merchandiser, production in charge and all the queries regarding the particular style is discussed.
After pp, size set approved file is transferred to production manager. Finally the production is
geared and inspection is carried in between.
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SPINING SECTION :-
Star Suitings (India) group has own spinning mill with the capacity of 3600 Spindles
Manufacturing 2500 kg of various Wool/Acrylic/Silk/Viscose blends.
Spinning is the twisting together of fibers to form yarn (or thread, rope, or cable).
Fibers cannot be used to make clothes in their raw form. For this purpose, they must be
converted into yarns. The process used for yarn formation is spinning. Eventually, the techniques
were refined and industrial spinning started manufacturing yarn in various ways.
In the following shown picture raw fiber blend through ball head auto machine this machine raw
fiber.
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Production DepartmentWorkflow in STAR SUITINGS (INDIA).
Fabric
Fabric checking
Cutting issue
Bundle ticketing
Cutting checking
Bundle ok
Stitching
Computer data
Thread cutting
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Re-checking
Pressing
Measurement
Final checking
Packing
Price ticketing
Folding
Shipment
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KNITTING DEPARTMENT HEIARCHY
The fabric merchandiser calculates consumption of the fabric. Then they place the order for the
knitting department head. The merchandiser used a proper format which include: name of the
buyer for whom fabric is knitted, season, style no, fabric order date, fabric description (honey
comb),count, gsm, dia,fab(ready) in kgs, this format is signed by Merchandiser. .
Knitting department is equipped with 30 different circular machines with different gauge and
diameters. These machines are capable to producing all knitted structure in any required width
and weight. Machines are equipped with lycra feeders. After the yarn is inhouse, it is stored
anywhere the place available. Then the superwiser issues the yarn to the knitted department.the
master of the knitting deprtment knit the trims such as: collar, cuff, tape simultaneously.
According to the formet.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF KNITTING MACHINES USED:
Single jerky machine 24 gauge-mayar interlock machine Mayar foma interlock machine Computerized auto-stripper mini jacquard Pillotelli setting (plutch) Sunda circular knitting Well knit machine Collar flap machine Sunda circular machine(single jersey+single pk) 24 gauge single jersey machine Flat bedmachine
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STORE ROOM
It principally holds 3 types of goods:
1. Open width fabrics on rolls of cardboard.
2. Tubular fabrics.
3. Garment parts like cuff and collars for the T-shirts.
Total number of racks which are used for fabric storage as well as cuff and collar storage is 14.4
racks had 6 partitions and 10 racks had 4 partitions and mostly the highest rack had the stock
surplus.
. Before sourcing fabric inspection is to be done
Receive fabric from fabric finish department
Fabric is analyzed (GSM, shrinkage, temp. settings, other as demanded)
The stores keeps the stock of trims and accessories likethreads, labels, hand tags, buttons, etc;
packing materials likepoly bags, cartons, hand bags, etc; spares of the machines etc. the
merchandiser makes a trims card where all the trims that are to be used in the style are attached.
The trim card gives detail regarding color, style no., size, content, buyer, and vendor. The trims
are ordered keeping in mind 5% rejections subjecting to defects and wastage during use and
check. The trim department ordered the trims as given in swatch card from buyer nominatedsupplier.
After the trims are received then it is sent for buyer approval and only after their approval bulk
order for trims are placed. The trims are in house much before the production.
Swatch card is sent to the merchandiser containing all the trims which are ordered and now
checked so that they have a receiving which implies the approval from them.
PRODUCTION ISSUES
The trims are now packed and kept in racks according to style no. the trims are issued to the
production department from here only and prepre the delivery challan and keeps the challan to
ready to issue to the production.
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PATTERN MAKING GRADING DEPARTMENT
Patternmakers make the pattern according to the specification sheet. They makes the pattern on
the cardboard with seam allowances and in every sizes- S, M, XL.XXL,XXXL.
IMPORTENT POINTS IN PATTERN MAKING
Correct measurements. Proper shape Allowances for shrinkage Notches and drill marking Correct grain line.
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FLOW CHART FOR PATTERN MAKING PROCCEDURE
START
Receive specification
Receiving pattern from pattern
Pattern grading
Pattern correction, and send for the
Cut ratio planning
Marker planning according to the cut ratio
Send to cutting room for
Send to GM for costing
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CUTTING ROOM
The cutting department at Star Suitings (India). is sub divided into four departments:
CAD Spreading Cutting Bundling
FLOW CHART FOR CUTTING PROCCEDURE
START
Sampling
CAD
Fabric issue
Cut planning
Relaxation
Spreading
Ticketing
Cutting
Bundling
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The base pattern which prepare on sampling stage graded the help of CAD and then the marker
planning and making was done as this a solid i.e. Plain color and the fabric were efficiently
utilized.
CUTTING
Knit fabric usually comes in tubular form, so the first step is always to cut it open. The cutting
process for striped fabric is very difficult. Unlike solids dyed fabrics, the striped fabric lay
requires the plies to be constantly matched for alignment of stripes within the spread, after every
step to eliminate out any inter ply shift and subsequent inaccurate cutting.
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager.
They used a proper format which includes following detail:
Color Style Purchase order Measurement sheet.
Accurate cutting facilities sewing and improves garment quality. In Star Suitings (India). For
normal scissors are used to avoid any mismatch. Cutting efficiency is calculated by CAD Lab.
The mini marker is used for the minimization of fabric 17 to 20%.
Bundle ticket
After the pieces are sorted the bundle card is generated which contains the information
like the name of the buyer , style, shade, size, number of pieces etc. and the bundle card is
attached to the respective bundles.
A bundle consists of all the pieces of the same size. Even if in a layer there are 2 fronts of small size then the bundle no for both changes.
Dispatch
Inspection
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For 1 particular garment all the pieces have same ticket no. The bundle no is decided by the operator. Once the ticketing is done then an operator looks for the strings that are put during the
spreading time so that no defective pieces go to sewing room.
The cut parts are then issued to the PRINTING department or EMBROIDERY department. Cut
parts are given from cutting department to the sewing room as and when need arises.
EMBROIDERY
Once the cutting has been finished then they are sent to the embroidery department. The
merchandiser after getting the sample done, they bring the original sample that will be sent to the
merchants by the buyer and they will also get the sample done in the factory and then they show
the both sample and specification.
PROCESS FLOW
Receipt of instruction sheet Receipt of pattern Receipt of cut panels/Receipt of ready garments Temporary storage Receipt of trims from stores Marking check panels Cutting and marking as per placement given instruction sheet Framing check panel size & segregation panels of one size Load framing with canvas/fusing Floppy transfer to embroidery to machine Loading/unloading of the machine, load the machine with framed panels Carry out embroidery operation Thread cutting Thread/canvas/fusing cutting checking
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Check measurement quality of the design Spotting on marking & ring mark Issue embroidery ready pieces (bundle entry mark chalan)
SEWING
Proper planning the line and the correct no. of person and machine, employed is the key
objective in this stage. The production system was followed by the Shobhagia Export Ltd. For
stitching is switch track system.
Operation breaks down for CHAPS style no. # 14016RH
PRESSING
In Star Suitings (India) pressing of the garment garments is done after washing that just a mild
one to reduce creases that have come due to wash. The equipment used for the pressing is design
to control the heat moisture and the pressing applied during the pressing operation.
INICIAL CHEAKING
Here the garment fully inspected by the workers from inside and outside to check for any defect
if occurring. Defect if arising they marked with a white color sticker to depict where the fault is.
If the garments are to repaired then they are put into tub for the repairing section and if any
mending arises it is rectified there and then.
Defect that occur during initial checking
Oil stain
Extra thread
Open/ skipped stitch
FINAL CHECK
Here the workers just have the outside garment checking. When though garment is passed
though the final inspection then they folded and price tickets are attached to the neck tape with
the help of machine.
DESPATCH DEPARTMENT
The dispatch department is the final department through which a product passes before being
shipped off.
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The department gets the data from PURCHASE ORDER; which includes the schedule for the
whole month & has details like
Order number
Details of the order
Buyer name
Number of pieces
Date of despatch
The department also gets the data from the PO for the various specifications of the
packaging for the particular order like:
TYPE OF PACKINGRegular packing
Hanger packing
o The tape to be used is also specified by the buyer.Number of tags
o The number of tags is also specified by the buyer and this has to be strictly.
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CONCLUSION
While undertaking study I have understood the working of various departments which are
involve product development process, in whole process, there is lack of coordination between
departments especially with sampling departments limits their responsibility with respect only to
develop sample.
Improper sampling room layout also hampers much of sample development process as it is
totally disorganized and one find it difficulties to track any samples on time, racks are not
properly organized, all these creates fuzz in speeding the sample development process.
On the whole company have many of activities in-house needed for product development like
knitting department, dyeing department, printing department, finishing department, and has
developed many formats to ensure that product development should match buyer standard, but
the fact is that company lack in the proper implementation.