Snake Bite

WWD

PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO

By MARCY MEDINA

LAS VEGAS — A slew of new colors and shapes spar-kled at the Couture and JCK jewelry shows here as retailers were in a more confident mood from the re-covering economy.

At Fred Leighton and Kwiat, chief executive of-ficer Greg Kwiat characterized the business as up-beat. “Buyers have been [somewhat positive] for the last few years, but people are now really responding to the reality that business is moving forward. Each year, we look back and think, ‘We did all right’ but yet it’s as if we can’t believe it,” said Kwiat.

He noted a return to classics in the bridal and en-gagement business, a consistent driver for Kwiat, but a push toward new designs in its fashion segment. Climber earrings and “floating” diamonds in rhodi-um-plated gold were among the new looks.

Ear cuffs, jackets and climbers, plus floating styles of earrings (those with studs in the front and larger or dangling pieces attached to posts in the back) and mismatched or asymmetrical pairs were strong. So were double or triple rings and styles that climbed over or between multiple fingers, palm bracelets and hand chains. There were also more headpieces and body jewelry on display as well as convertible styles.

On the color front, blues and greens dominated (aquamarine, London blue topaz, tsavorite, tanzanite, lapis, chrysprase and turquoise were most popular), followed by mini-trends such as clear or translucent stones like white sapphire, topaz or quartz, moonstone and rock crystal, and rainbow-style combinations.

By LAUREN MCCARTHY

NEW YORK — It’s Tory time. Tory Burch has teamed with Fossil Group

to launch her first watch collection, due out in October. “It was something that we knew we wanted to do because I love watches,” said Burch. “It was a natural extension.”

An extension that will join a string of new product categories Burch will be entering over the next year to 18 months. Even as the designer continues to open her own stores around the world, Burch is plotting to break into men’s accessories in fall 2015, as well as introduce women’s activewear, perhaps as its own retail concept. These new collections come on top of her fragrance, which she launched last year with the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. The new categories are aimed at maintaining the momentum of a brand that observ-ers continually tip as the next hot label to go for an initial public offering in the wake of the runaway suc-cess of Michael Kors.

Burch, though, continues to insist an IPO isn’t on the horizon. “It’s not something we’re thinking about,” she said.

Whenever she does, watches will be a key prod-uct for her brand — the category is one of Kors’ most successful, along with handbags, sunglasses and beauty. Burch said she met with a handful of distributors before landing on Fossil, thanks largely to her connection with chief executive officer Kosta Kartsotis.“When I met with Kosta, it was such an ob-vious fit from the way he looks at business,” she said, adding that Fossil’s Swiss manufacturing was an cru-cial element. “It’s about craftsmanship and quality.”

Fossil chief strategy and marketing officer Greg McKelvey echoed the sentiment. “Never in the his-tory of our markets has there been a brand that’s a billion-dollar brand with the type of heat and global appeal that Tory has on the market,” he claimed.

SEE PAGE 6

LICENSE WITH FOSSIL

Tory Keeps Ticking:

Brand Adds Watches

As Economy Rebounds,Jewelry Firms Get Bold

SEE PAGE 8

Donatella Versace had the Sixties in mind when designing her racy Versace collection; graphic geometrics and cropped hemlines were key. Here, a cool jacket-skirt pairing done in pythonand Swarovski crystal patchwork. For more on resort, see pages 4 and 5.

MONDAY, JUNE 9, 2014 $3.00 WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY

RESORT2015

WAL-MART’S STRATEGYTHE WORLD’S LARGEST

RETAILER SAYS IT IS FOCUSING ON ITS PEOPLE AND

TECHNOLOGY. PAGE 2

MUGLER’S NEW MAN

STAR SNAPPER CATCHING UP WITH DAVID

KOMA ABOUT HIS FIRST

COLLECTION FOR THE FRENCH

FASHION HOUSE. PAGE 6

FAMED PAPARAZZI RON GALELLA IS MINING HIS EXTENSIVE ARCHIVES

AND HAS A NEW BOOK — THIS ONE ABOUT NEW YORK. PAGE 10

WWD.COM2 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 9, 2014

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AAFA Names Juanita Duggan as CEO

Wal-Mart Talks People and TechBy SHARON EDELSON

WAL-MART STORES INC. is out to invest in its peo-ple — and e-commerce.

At the retailer’s annual general meeting Friday at the Bud Walton Arena in Fayetteville, Ark., the dual themes of technology and associates were in-voked as speaker after speaker called both the fu-ture of the company.

“It will be our associates who make the differ-ence,” said Doug McMillon, president and chief executive officer of Wal-Mart Stores Inc., presiding over his first annual meeting

Not all Wal-Mart associates are content, however. As many as 20 protests by workers, including mothers seeking higher pay and better work schedules, were held around the country last week. Workers say Wal-Mart is not paying them enough to rise out of poverty and they’re demanding a base salary of $25,000 a year.

In addition, a hearing began last week in the federal government’s trial against Wal-Mart for breaking federal labor law — the National Labor Relations Act — by violating workers’ rights. The National Labor Relations Board is prosecuting the company for firing and disciplining nearly 70 work-ers for protesting and striking.

A Wal-Mart spokesman called the strikers “paid protesters not associated with Wal-Mart shipped in to simply disrupt.” A spokeswoman for the activist group Our Wal-Mart said, “Of course the striking moms work for Wal-Mart.” The organization claims Wal-Mart loses up to $3 billion a year because of stocking problems that would be alleviated with more full-time workers.

One area where the company is hiring is in glob-al e-commerce. In the last year, 1,000 technologists joined the division, which has filed more than 300 patents in the last two years.

“We’ll be at the forefront of innovation and tech-nology,” McMillon said, adding that Wal-Mart is testing tube stations in London as product pickup points; merchandise is distributed from a truck. “To do all this, we need to move fast,” he said. “That’s why we’re piloting so many things around the world. We acquired 14 companies in the last three years.”

Global e-commerce, Wal-Mart’s fastest-growing segment, last year rose 30 percent and accounted for one-third of the company’s total sales growth. Neil Ashe, president and ceo of global e-commerce, forecast $13 billion in sales this year. “Our custom-er is changing,” Ashe said. “About 65 percent of our U.S. shoppers have smartphones and 80 percent of those under 35 have” the devices. Customers who shop on different platforms spend twice as much money as in Wal-Mart stores, he said.

The company is bullish on its smaller-format Wal-Mart Express stores and Neighborhood Markets. The latter delivered a 5 percent same-store sales increase since last quarter and logged 46 consecutive quarters of comp growth, said Bill Simon, president and ceo of Wal-Mart U.S. The company will build 200 Neighborhood Markets this year and add 80 to 100 Express units. “They’ll all be digitally connected to walmart.com’s seven million product assortment,” he said.

As always, the meeting was a blend of business and entertainment. Host Harry Connick Jr. joked about the early hour — 7 a.m. local time. “The only people up right now are in China or are Justin Bieber’s lawyers,” he said to tepid applause. Robin Thicke and Sarah McLachlan each performed two songs and Brian Kelley and Tyler Hubbard of Florida Georgia Line let loose with their country

pop sound. About 14,000 associates screamed and cheered, giving the event the feel of a giant pep rally.

The first number, “Happy,” was sung by as-sociates from around the world. Then, Pharrell Williams bounded out to sing his hit and shouted, “Put your hands together for Wal-Mart, guys, they’re making the world a happier place.”

“We’re investing in new formats, products and tech-nologies,” said Simon. “We’re also investing in our peo-ple. We need to make sure you have the opportunity to grow. We’re making more flexible schedules. And we want to be clearer on what it takes to advance here.”

S. Robson Walton, chairman of the board, had suc-cession on his mind. He announced that the company named Greg Penner as vice chairman. Penner, who is Walton’s son-in-law, has served on the board since 2008, and has deep experience in technology and e-commerce, Robson said.

Wal-Mart is under scrutiny from the financial com-munity. Sales have declined for the past five quarters and comp-store sales have fallen for six quarters in a row. Wal-Mart is catering to working-class customers who are not yet enjoying the economic recovery that’s benefited wealthier shoppers. “Last year was not a typical Wal-Mart year and we all felt it,” said Charles Holley, cfo. “In spite of a difficult year, you’re working for a very strong company.”

Simon said the company is “continuing to look for ways to grow same-store sales.”

Holley touted Wal-Mart’s financial achievements, such as reaching $473 billion in sales. Profits at Wal-Mart this year reached $28 billion and the company has generated earnings per share of $5.11 over the last five years. Wal-Mart U.S. is a $279 billion busi-ness, while international did $137 billion in sales last year and Sam’s Club had sales of $57 billion.

But that hasn’t been enough to satisfy Wal-Mart’s critics. Institutional Shareholder Services, advis-ers to institutional investors, said last week that it opposes Wal-Mart chairman S. Robson Walton and former ceo Mike Duke’s reelection to the board and criticized the board for doing little to rectify possible violations of probes in Mexico and other countries. Wal-Mart is being investigated by the Securities and Exchange Commission and the U.S. Department of Justice regarding the Foreign Corrupt Practices Act, while the company itself is looking into its operations in Brazil, India, China and Mexico. Wal-Mart said it’s spent $439 million in cooperating with the govern-ment and upgrading its compliance program.

Charmaine Givens-Thomas, a Wal-Mart employ-ee, introduced a shareholder proposal calling for an independent chairman. “Something is wrong when the richest family in America pays hundreds of thousands of workers so little that they cannot survive without public assistance,” she said.

UAW Retiree Medical Benefits Trust and the Illinois State Board of Investment, leading a global investor coalition, proposed that Wal-Mart’s board disclose annually whether or not the company clawed back or recouped incentive compensation from any senior executive for misconduct that exposes the com-pany to serious financial, legal and reputational risks.

The shareholder proposals failed.Meanwhile, actor Tracy Morgan on Sunday re-

mained hospitalized after a Wal-Mart tractor trailer slammed into a limo bus he was riding in, killing an-other passenger. The accident on the New Jersey Turnpike left at least three others seriously injured. Simon said in a statement: “We can’t change what hap-pened, but we will do what’s right for the family of the victim and the survivors in the days and weeks ahead.”

WASHINGTON — The American Apparel & Footwear Association on Friday named veteran lobbyist Juanita D. Duggan president and chief executive officer.

Duggan, who will take the helm of the AAFA on July 1, was most recently policy director at Washington lobbying firm Brownstein, Hyatt, Farber, Schreck LLP, where she handled a diverse set of clients, including retailers. She also brings to the job more than 25 years of experience on Capitol Hill and in the White House.

Duggan succeeds Kevin Burke, who left the as-sociation in January after 13 years to become presi-dent and ceo of the Airports Council International — North America.

“Juanita has demonstrated time and again her relentlessness and dedication to succeed for her clients,” said Rick Helfenbein, chairman of AAFA and president of Luen Thai USA. “Her ability to lead organizations, develop coalitions and success-fully manage complex lobbying efforts and public affairs campaigns is quite impressive.”

Duggan said, “This is a great opportunity to up the association’s game in an era of fast-paced change in the industry and the policy world. The apparel and footwear industry is a key driver of economic growth in the U.S. and globally. I can’t wait to tell their story.”

Duggan was special assistant for cabinet affairs to President George H.W. Bush from 1989 to 1990 and also assistant for domestic policy and public liaison to President Ronald Reagan from 1987 to 1989.

She will lead AAFA during a resurgence in Made in the USA. She will also lead the AAFA at a time when brands are seeking to diversify and expand their global sourcing.

One key priority for the AAFA has been the ongo-ing negotiation of the Trans-Pacific Partnership pact between the U.S. and 11 other countries that has sig-nificant ramifications for the industry. Vietnam, the second-largest apparel supplier to the U.S., is taking part in the talks on TPP, which is said to hold potential for importers and pitfalls for domestic textile makers.

— KRISTI ELLIS

ON WWD.COM

THE BRIEFING BOXIN TODAY’S WWD

Tory Burch has teamed with Fossil Group to launch her first watch collection, due out in October. PAGE 1 A slew of new colors and shapes sparkled at the Couture and JCK jewelry shows in Las Vegas as retailers were in a more confident mood from the recovering economy. PAGE 1 Designing his first Mugler collection, David Koma said he resisted the tug of the French firm’s vast archive, preferring to follow his instincts. PAGE 6 Private equity firm Sycamore Partners has acquired the intellectual property assets of bankrupt women’s specialty retailer Coldwater Creek. PAGE 6 Kelly Wearstler is expanding into fine jewelry with a 60-piece collection that will launch in her Melrose Avenue store in Los Angeles and Forty Five Ten in Dallas. PAGE 8 Diane Gilman is celebrating her 20th year on HSN and her DG2 collection, which did $11 million in sales during the month of May, is poised to hit $100 million this year. PAGE 9 Buccellati has found a new home in New York, where it will introduce an updated store concept by October. PAGE 9 Photographer Ron Galella discusses the process of choosing images from his vast archives for his collection of books, including the latest one on New York. PAGE 10 Givenchy is to hold its resort presentation and showroom in Paris later this month instead of New York. PAGE 11 Redbook promoted Meredith Rollins to editor in chief, where she succeeds Jill Herzig, who was named editor in chief of Dr. Oz The Good Life in mid-May. PAGE 11

The scene at Stella McCartney’s resort

show. For more, see WWD.com.

EYE: The cast of characters populating Stella McCartney’s resort show was diverse — and all part of the McCartney club of friends and fans. For more, see WWD.com.

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Versace: Donatella Versace nodded to the Sixties with her strong collection that picked up on the house’s graphic proclivities with a series of chic geometrics and fabrics that were manipulated to striking effect. Versace showed several short A-line dress silhouettes and a few suits, including a chic jacket-skirt pairing done in a python and Swarovski crystal patchwork for a look that evoked a Julie Christie circa Swinging London vibe. A sleeveless shift emblazoned with a bold print that combined Medusa, polka dots and herringbone added to the mood.

Sporty parkas were rendered in a shimmering technical fabric that appeared wet, and there were also some great knits, i.e., a sexy body-con dress in a performance yarn that Versace worked into a twist knit.

Hardware was treated like jewelry, especially with the evening looks. On a slinky black silk cady gown, zippers were prominently placed down the side slit and encrusted in crystals.

Stella McCartney: Stella McCartney’s annual resort garden party, this year held at the Elizabeth Street Garden in New York, was an Instagrammer’s paradise. Cliques of models gulping Champagne milled around the sculptures and human statues. There was a band, a booze truck and superheroes — Stellasuperheroes, to be clear. One of McCartney’s four vignettes was a group of clothes and accessories emblazoned with colorful characters she worked up with an illustrator. “I was inspired to bring the humor back to the collection,” said McCartney of the superheroes, which she hasn’t named, but plans to.

The whole lineup captured that free spirit with feminine tailoring, such as a purple tunic with cutouts and a pretty range of scarf dresses done in mixed prints with handkerchief hemlines and sexy halter tops. McCartney said she was looking at her mother’s wardrobe from the Seventies for inspiration but also wanted to “show some flesh and encourage women to be themselves. Fashion has been a little oppressive of late.”

Sonia Rykiel: A Seventies boyish attitude was the leitmotiv for the Sonia Rykiel resort collection, Geraldo Da Conceicao’s last effort before leaving the house (Julie de Libran will take the creative reins beginning with the spring 2015 collection). Da Conceicao said “a young Jack Nicholson” was one of his main inspirations, thus the clothes had a tongue-in-cheek attitude. With odes to the Rykiel signature, bold sporty stripes came on knits, such as with the cardigan-and-dress twinset. Men’s tie motifs were worked on a satin jacquard shirt and matching cropped pants, and in a more technical vein, pink and red lace was bonded on a translucent water-repellent fabric for trenchcoats and skirts.

Mulberry: A feminine mood breezed through Mulberry’s resort collection. The design team looked to the lush foliage and ornate Victorian glass houses of London’s Kew Gardens for inspiration, resulting in prints that ran from fine, hand-drawn leaves to a geometric design that resembled wicker. Those patterns were worked onto fluid, relaxed silhouettes with a Seventies feel — highlights included a chiffon, drop-waisted shirtdress in a green-and-white wicker print and a tailored, midthigh coat in a yellow wool silk.

The decade also came through in

the new Darcie bag, a small leather shoulder piece inspired by vintage camera cases.

Pringle of Scotland: Head of design Massimo Nicosia mixed knits with wovens for this elegant Pringle of Scotland collection that was partly inspired by the natural world — and full of texture. Printed tops took their cue from Victorian-era découpage techniques with cutout fabric flowers bonded to their surface. A honeycomblike material resembling a knit worked its way onto dresses and A-line skirts, while a floral design was knit as a detail onto the front of a silk dress. Outerwear, too, was inspired by nature as in a double crepe coat the color of a peppermint leaf.

Alice + Olivia: Stacey Bendet took resort

inspiration from “One Special Summer,” Jackie and Lee Bouvier’s charming book that chronicles the young sisters’ summer sojourn in Europe in 1951. Bendet drew on its illustrations for Alice + Olivia’s poppy colors and looked to the era for many key shapes. A shift dress had a trompe l’oeil illustration woven into its fabric while there were numerous “sets,” including a crop top-and-skirt combo in a striped knit and a coat and dress in leather.

On a separate note, Bendet said a luxe cashmere capsule collection is in the works. Meant for lounging and travel, it will be sold exclusively in Alice + Olivia stores come fall.

Rebecca Taylor: “For me, resort is about destination travel and the realities of what you’ll need,” said Rebecca Taylor. She first looked to chilly locales,

offering a comfortable cargo coat lined with jersey and a myriad of fuzzy sweater options in sweet pink and eclectic Mexican stripes. Taylor then switched gears for warmer climates with lightweight options including chiffon dresses in a splashy floral print, delicate handkerchief-hem numbers in solids and a series of slouchy trousers and culottes that would do double-climate duty just fine.

A.L.C.: Devoid of bells and whistles, Andrea Lieberman’s latest A.L.C. collection had something cool for everyone. There was a biker jacket in silver leather for rocker types, tennis sweaters and lace skirts for the ladylike and mannish bomber jackets and wrap-front midi skirts spoke to the minimalist set. Lieberman’s restraint in design and details made it all work seamlessly.

Resort 2015 FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE

WWD.com/runway.

Versace Stella McCartney

WWD.COM5WWD MONDAY, JUNE 9, 2014

Trina Turk: The winter solstice is the shortest day of the year and for Trina Turk it marks the ascent toward spring, not to mention a time to revel in California modern in the middle of winter.

A festive confetti grid print, one of several within the collection, was a nod to the solstice celebrations and looked great on a topcoat and A-line skirt while a heavily textured red cotton with frayed edges was used for a fun top and shorts set. Turk wisely kept all of her shapes minimal, whether a jumpsuit, a maxidress or a bandeau bikini, to allow the prints and fabrics to really stand out.

Hervé Léger by Max Azria: Lubov Azria took the party to Carnivale in Brazil this season and the heady textures and embellishment added a wow factor to the always sexy Hervé Léger by Max Azria lineup. Looped fringe followed

the lines of the body on one dress while it was left long at the hem of another. A batik floral print looked fresh as a top, skirt and leggings combo, while mixed techniques of braiding, crochet and mesh added textural interest to cropped tops and tank dresses.

Sally LaPointe: For her first resort collection, Sally LaPointe looked to a grounded girl and utilized elements found in a terrarium as inspiration. Tropical colors such as peach, bark and papaya offered a canvas for an easy pebbled crepe coat and a croc-embossed jacquard jersey dress that hugged the body, shown in both knee-length and gown versions. The designer also added a panel of fox fur down the front of a cropped sweater and used python-printed leather for a bomber jacket.

Derek Lam 10 Crosby: By “refocusing on a silhouette that felt modern and feminine,” Derek Lam 10 Crosby design director Elizabeth Giardina created a collection that emphasized the waist while still appearing effortless. For example, a salmon-colored knit top was layered over a white shirt and orange skirt and finished off with a black ribbon belt, while a black leather T-shirt featured a drawstring tie. Giardina also looked to head-to-toe pairings like a white silk pajama-inspired set to complete the easy aesthetic.

Tse: For her Tse collection, Tina Lutz was inspired, down to the smallest detail, by the oceanic creatures of BBC’s “Blue Planet” series. Coral shapes were mirrored in lace dresses and silk prints, while jellyfish were interpreted in spotted, layered organza pants as well as in tiny dot

trims. The double-faced cashmere jackets and pants are classics for the brand, but the newest look — a pink cardigan, boldly trimmed in knit — made it clear that Lutz can make it by sea or land.

SB47: “Night and Day.” It’s a song and also the cornerstone of the re-branded contemporary line, SB47, from Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia. Embroidery and embellishment played a role in their resort collection, primarily as accents on both sleek and sporty shapes. Cable-knit sweaters, for example, featured silk mesh upper sleeves or had coated bouclé peeking out from zippered sides, paired with leather leggings. Dresses, meanwhile, came both boxy in brushed sequins and in a more feminine, flared shape with a silver-and-black pattern that was loosely interpreted from cobblestone.

Sonia Rykiel

Mulberry Pringle of Scotland

Alice + Olivia

Rebecca Taylor

A.L.C.

Trina Turk

Hervé Léger by Max Azria

Sally LaPointe

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By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Designing his first Mugler collection, David Koma said he resist-ed the tug of the French firm’s vast archive, pre-ferring to follow his “in-stincts and how I see the modern Mugler woman.”

Sharp tailoring, loose trousers and body-conscious dresses — toughened with elastic straps and rows of metal buckles — are what the London-based designer of Georgian descent turned out for the resort season ahead of a return to the Paris runway this fall.

While it was Thierry Mugler’s otherworldly, sometimes outré styles from the Eighties that flabber-gasted a 12-year-old Koma and propelled him into a fashion career, the designer insisted that the founder’s anatomical silhouettes, immaculate cutting and use of innovative materials re-main powerful guideposts.

“Everyone knows cinched waists and big shoulders, but there’s so much more than that,” he said in an in-terview. “Anything that makes a woman look strong and beautiful, elegant and sexy — they’re all relevant.”

“The whole point is to create a new vision that will represent Mugler,” he explained. “It’s so important to concentrate on what’s fresh now and challenge your-self to create a new story.”

Koma referenced Lyrical Abstraction, a midcentury art movement, in the zigzag motifs he worked into dresses and tops via thermal bonding, printing or as insets. Sleek and graphic, the collection spans strong-shouldered coats, pantsuits, clinging T-shirt dresses and evening columns.

The designer said his aim is to build a wardrobe, and called resort a “first step for the new Mugler journey.”

Virginie Courtin-Clarins, director of development, marketing and communi-cations at Mugler Fashion, agreed that the brand’s legacy must be cast into the future “with new codes and ways of interpretation.

“The way of express-ing it is no longer the big shoulders or very tight hips like we used to see in the past. She has to be more urban, an active woman,” she explained, defining the Mugler customer as “strong, independent, glamorous.”

Koma succeeded Nicola Formichetti, who exit-ed Mugler last year and joined Diesel as artistic director. After graduating from Central Saint Martins fashion school in 2009, Koma launched a signa-ture fashion house and im-mediately demonstrated a fascination with architec-tural shapes and spectacu-lar embellishments.

He is to continue to show that label in London alongside his work for Mugler.

The Mugler fashion house, controlled by beauty giant Groupe Clarins, is pursuing a wholesale strategy, aiming to be in the “best boutiques and department stores worldwide,” Courtin-Clarins said.

The towering blonde insisted she is not the muse for the house or for Koma, though it is plain she relates to its fashions strongly, having worn his first Mugler de-sign to the Sidaction gala in Paris earlier this year.

She revealed that Koma made a Mugler dress for her civil wedding last week, ahead of the church cer-emony, which took place on Saturday.

“I didn’t want to bother David’s work asking him to make my dress but he did it anyway as a surprise,” she said. “I was very touched; it was the best wedding present I could expect.”

While that statement would ap-pear to overlook Burch’s competi-tor Kors, McKelvey has some inside knowledge of the two brands, since Fossil also makes watches for Kors. Fossil also produces timepieces for Burberry, Emporio Armani, Marc by Marc Jacobs, DKNY, Diesel, A|X Armani Exchange, Adidas Originals, Michele, Zodiac and Relic, as well as its own branded line. Overall sales for Fossil Group are split evenly be-tween the two categories, according to McKelvey.

Burch and Fossil first inked the deal in February 2013, and over the past 15 months have worked together to shape the debut collection. The final selection features nine models done in multiple colorways, and will be unveiled to press on Wednesday. Styles include the Tory watch, a clas-sic chain-link design with a round face done in various colors; the Buddy, a thin leather strap model with a simple rectangular face, and the Izzie, a graphic style featuring a square Lucite frame around the face.

For those looking for a recogniz-able design, Burch has included the Reva, which features the signature Tory Burch emblem that accents the brand’s best-selling flats of the same name. Two limited-edition pieces will also be available: Sawyer, a gold cuff inspired by an old bracelet of Burch’s grandmother, and Robinson, a gold bangle with blue lapis around the face frame. Only 50 units of the Robinson will be produced. The limited-edition pieces are the most expensive offerings in the collection, priced at $895 and $995, respectively.

The rest of the collection ranges in price from $350 to $695.

The price point places Burch high-er than watches by Kors (which retail from $140 to $550) and Marc by Marc Jacobs (priced from $150 to $350).

“Hopefully what we’re doing is something a bit unique,” said Burch. “There was an open space in this price point.”

McKelvey described the open space as a “sweet spot” when it comes to targeting the proper customers.“Tory is about a billion dollars with global growth opportuni-ties,” he said. “The strength of the brand is going to play exceptionally well at this $395-plus price point. It’s an accessible price point but still a strong lifestyle and luxury point of view. [The price point] is not going to be a hurdle for consumers.

“If you look at the watch market globally, over half of the category is above $1,000,” he added. “It’s a $60 billion market with over half of the revenue base above $1,000. For us, this is just a white-space op-portunity to bring our brands, led by Tory Burch, Burberry and Armani, up into a market of Swiss-made watches at higher price points.”

Both Burch and McKelvey believe the price range will attract the brand’s current ready-to-wear and accessories cus-tomers, which the designer described as “women of all ages,” with the po-tential to expand beyond that core

base. “It will be interesting,” she said. “Footwear brought in a younger custom-er. Originally, when I started the compa-ny, [the age range] was 30 to 45, but now it is really all ages. We’re dressing teens, college age and then afters.”

In terms of location demograph-ics, Fossil estimates its overall revenue is split evenly between domestic and international sales, with European and Asian busi-nesses growing at more than 20 percent year-over-year and the

U.S. growing in the midsingle-digit range. The Tory Burch di-vision is expected to follow suit.

Both Burch and McKelvey declined to provide sales projections, but McKelvey an-

ticipates that the brand will eventually become one of Fossil’s top three licensees. “It can be very big and very

successful, but how quickly is the question,” he said.

Kors is currently Fossil’s best-selling license, making up 22.4 percent of the Texas-based company’s 2013 sales. “We’ve worked and helped build the

Michael Kors brand for over a decade,” said McKelvey. “It took awhile to get to the point of size and success that it is today.”

Distribution is also a key part of Fossil’s strategy to build the Tory Burch watch division. The initial collection will be avail-able exclusively at Nordstrom, as well as at Tory Burch stores

and on toryburch.com. “We want to make sure that we incubate this business be-fore we really start to push or start a much bigger business,” said McKelvey.

Koma Channels the Modern Woman at Mugler Sycamore Partners Buys Coldwater Creek IP Assets

Burch Extends Brand Into Watches

’’’’

Hopefully what we’re doing is something a bit

unique. There was an open space in this price point.

— TORY BURCH

{Continued from page one}

Tory Burch’s Buddy watch.

Resort looks from Mugler.

PHOT

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ACCO

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By VICKI M. YOUNG

PRIVATE EQUITY FIRM Sycamore Partners has ac-quired the intellectual property assets of bankrupt wom-en’s specialty retailer Coldwater Creek.

The purchase, which included customer lists, was through a Sycamore affiliate, CWC Direct LLC, last month at a bankruptcy court auction in Delaware. A Delaware bankruptcy court has already approved the acquisition.

A source familiar with Sycamore’s plans said the fi-nancial firm intends to reestablish the business in the future. The entity would operate as a separate company under Sycamore’s growing portfolio that now includes Talbots, Hot Topic and the former Jones Group brands.

As for specifics on what direction that relaunch may take, whether retail stores or just online, that hasn’t been determined yet, this individual said.

Coldwater Creek filed its bankruptcy petition in April, and is still in wind-down mode. The specialty chain began going-out-of-business sales last month. Two criticisms that have surfaced on why the retailer had been struggling were connected to the fashion content of its merchandise and to the square footage of many of its stores, largely double or more the size of a typical Chico’s or Talbots store, its two main competitors.

While not uncommon among brand management firms, the purchase of distressed IP assets is a more re-cent trend among financial investors looking for invest-ments that can be built up and later monetized.

An example earlier this year was the January acquisi-tion of Loehmann’s IP assets, also in a bankruptcy court auction, by hedge fund Esopus Creek Value Series Fund LP. Showing some mettle that it knows what to do with the investment, Loehmann’s was back online last month for a soft launch less than three months after going-out-of-business sales were completed. Esopus also hired Charles Koppelman of brand development and advisory firm CAK Entertainment Inc. to help with the relaunch of the brand. The Loehmann’s site is still being tweaked and is expected to do a hard launch midsummer.

In the case of Coldwater Creek, sources familiar with Sycamore’s thinking said the private equity firm be-lieves the specialty chain still has strong brand recogni-tion. One individual said the brand continues to have “deep support from its loyal customer base.”

8 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 9, 2014

KELLY WEARSTLER is ex-panding her design empire into fine jewelry with a 60-piece collection that will launch in her Melrose Avenue store in Los Angeles and Forty Five Ten in Dallas.

The mostly one-off pieces consist of mixed metals such as 14-karat and 18-karat yel-low and rose gold vermeil and blackened sterling silver with diamonds, gemstones and min-erals ranging from $1,100 to $8,000 at retail.

Inspired by Wearstler’s pop-ular bauble boxes, metal table-

top objects with lids inlaid with large gemstones, the col-lection has a more refined look than her costume jewelry line. “We have such a voice in the luxury market that it felt natu-ral to go into fine jewelry. I’m constantly shopping for stones all over the world and always looking for details and delicate textures,” she said.

Wearstler likes to juxtapose the refinement of diamonds with the rawness of materials like fluorite, labradorite, zebra sapphire, smoky quartz and druzy. While some stones are

custom-cut, others have raw edges. “You can dress them up or down, as I do with all my pieces,” she said. As a fin-ishing touch, Wearstler makes a leather and fur bag for each piece of jewelry.

Wearstler’s home accesso-ries and costume jewelry re-tail in about 40 doors globally and she plans to expand the fine jewelry distribution slow-ly. This fall, she is launching new rug, fine china and fabric lines and designs for two new hotels in San Francisco, as well as one in Los Angeles in spring 2016.

— MARCY MEDINA

Metals were mixed freely and the black-and-white contrast look was among leading trends. Designers were also using technology to craft inno-vative textures, such as Yossi Harari’s 18-karat yellow gold Lace collec-tion, which used CAD techniques to create a woven basketlike tex-ture, which was also less weighty and expen-sive than 22-karat gold.

The bevy of choices excited buyers on the lookout for new, who were also bolstered by increas-ing confidence in a recov-ering economy.

“Designs had stagnated over the last few years and this year I’m seeing a burst of new creativity and we bought deep into several new collections, including Fernando Jorge and Melanie Georgacopoulos,” said Andrea Riso, owner of Talisman Collection in El Dorado, Calif., which carries more than 40 collections. “I also buy a lot of Stephen Webster, Paula Crevoshay and Atelier Minyon.”

Riso said she has placed large orders at the Couture show since opening her store in 2012, and has only considered the con-signment model in the last six months. “I invest a lot in each designer with advertising and overhead, and I was buying a lot of showstopper pieces when gold was $1,800 an ounce. But financing designers can make you cash poor. I bring in a line for 90 days, and if it sells, then I buy into it significantly.” Riso said she spends anywhere from $50,000 to the low six figures on each designer she carries.

Andrea Hansen, founder of the fine jewelry show-

room and brand consultancy Luxe Intelligence, stirred the pot at both the JCK and Couture shows when she posted an open letter to the industry calling for brands, manufacturers and re-tailers to take a more proactive approach to help nurture inde-pendent designers, rather than impose huge open-to-buys and space requirements on retail-ers, which can put the squeeze on their budgets and floor space

for new lines. “If a store feels they have

to buy the same five big brands then every store starts to look the same, not to mention

they’re forced to discount to com-pete, which doesn’t help anyone. We as an industry should be more

supportive of new talent and help their businesses grow,”

Hansen said. Net-a-porter is anoth-

er retailer that supports independent brands, and buying manager Sasha Sarokin called the Couture show “a

healthy and holistic view of what the industry has to offer of brands large and small. I saw some

new brands I wouldn’t have otherwise and met with existing vendors.”

Fine jewelry is a growing category at Net-a-porter, whose customers can spend more than 1,000 pounds, or $1,600 at

current exchange, on a delicate diamond necklace or a dress. “Jewelry growth has outstripped fashion because the customer understands it’s an investment. We are seeing women invest in pieces more timeless and more casual that they can wear every day,” she said, adding that there are still markets around the world where women want state-ment pieces as well. “We recent-ly sold a 20,000 pound [$32,000] Anita Ko necklace but there are also a lot of women who buy her 300 pound [$480] studs.” Among Net-a-porter’s popu-lar designers are

Ippolita, Kimberly McDonald and Ileana Makri, and other labels Sarokin has her eye on are Andrea Fohrman, Yossi Harari and Jemma Wynne.

Other designers known for their use of color include Irene Neuwirth, who moved away from boulder opals into alternative stones such as black opals, tourmaline, aquamarine, tsavorite, Kingman turquoise and rubies. “After 10 years in the business, I’m at the point where I can really nur-ture my stores’ business,” said Neuwirth, who last week won the Swarovski Award for acces-

sories. “They are ready to step it up and more willing to buy a one-off piece. At the same time, I’m starting to

focus on pricing strategy. This is the first time the collection is really well-rounded and we have something for everyone, from $3,500 to $250,000.”

Neuwirth called her cus-tomer’s buying habits “a men-tal adjustment, for a woman to want a $100,000 necklace that didn’t really look like a $100,000 neck-lace. Now clients have faith in the brand and stores take the risk.” The diamond col-lection she launched at Barneys New York last year has been picked up by other stores and is “selling out the door.”

Nam Cho, who tradi-tionally works in diamonds, was also conscious of being able to sell to customers with smaller budgets. She offered several of her all-diamond baguette pieces in white sap-phire for one-quarter of the price, for example a sapphire band was $3,000 wholesale.

Other trends included open-work or negative space pieces made from thin pavé bands in either swirling or geometric shapes, as seen at Alberto Parada, Joelle Jewellery, Sara Weinstock and Gabriel & Co.

There were also sev-eral one-of-a-kind show-

stoppers on display, such as a $160,000 sacred heart locket from Arman Sarkisyan made from sapphires, rose-cut dia-monds, rubelite and cyanite. Such a piece takes three to four months to engrave and a year to complete. At Coomi, the one-off floating diamond and emerald or ruby necklaces take almost a year to make as well.

“Buyers seemed much more responsive this year. We feel in part that is because of the suc-

cess our retail partners have had with the col-

lection in the past year. At first we were uncertain on how cus-

tomers would respond to having a $400,000 Colombian emerald set inside an opal sur-rounded by rose-cut dia-monds, but the reaction and sales results have been great,” said Coomi Bhasin, adding, “We still find most of our business

coming from our gold and an-tiquities collections. Our retail partners have been supportive and we have doubled the num-ber of doors since this time last year. We plan on doubling our business again this year.”

In other news, Le Vian, Hearts on Fire and Alexis Bittar showed off new store concepts in their booths; Boulder, Colo.-based jeweler Todd Reed will open a Los Angeles store in September on Abbot Kinney Boulevard in Venice Beach, and Forevermark unveiled its new “The Promise” ad directed by Benjamin Millepied, which fo-cuses on core bridal pieces.

{Continued from page one}

Kelly Wearstler to Launch Fine Jewelry

New Styles Excite Buyers at Showsaccessories

Yossi Harari

Ileana Makri

Le Vian

Ivanka Trump

Stephen Webster

Monica Rich Kosann

Coomi

Jude FrancesGemfields by Marina B

Pieces from the Kelly Wearstler line.

WWD.COM9WWD MONDAY, JUNE 9, 2014

By SHARON EDELSON

DENIM HAS DONE A LOT for Diane Gilman. It’s given her a successful ca-reer, financial freedom and a sense of purpose — and turned her brand, which was launched in 2005, into HSN’s leading apparel label.

Gilman, 68, who is celebrating her 20th year on HSN, is still setting records. DG2, the collection she launched nine years ago, did $11 million in sales dur-ing the month of May. The brand, which did $6 million in sales in its first year, is poised to hit $100 million this year.

“That tells you the power of one great idea,” she said. “That’s how I got to write my book and how I’ll get to write the next one.”

“Good Jeans: 10 Simple Truths About Feeling Great, Staying Sexy and Aging Agelessly,” published by Running Press in April 2013, is Gilman’s personal prim-er to health, happiness, beauty and sex in your 60s. For her next book, she’d like to curate the experiences of others who’ve successfully reinvented them-selves after age 50.

DG2 jeans resonate with women “of a certain age.” They flatter the figure because the back of the jeans is raised and shaped to give a boost to the derri-ère, said Gilman, who sold silk separates when she signed on to HSN in 1994. “I liked what I did, but it didn’t have that strong a connection for me. I saw the cus-tomer from a distance.”

When Mindy Grossman joined HSN,

the chief executive officer asked Gilman what she really wanted to do. “Design jeans,” Gilman said. “I was ready for a fight. I expected her to say old women don’t wear jeans. [HSN]

could not be a better platform for ex-plaining your invention.”

Bill Brand, HSN’s chief marketing and business development officer, calls Gilman “a force. She’s so inspiring and empowering. She has that connection with women. She’s honest. She’ll show before-and-after pictures of herself.

She’s sharing stories and talking to [viewers] as if they’re girlfriends.”

Gilman’s “aha” moment came when she couldn’t find a pair of jeans that vaguely fit her. So, she designed a jean

that she and her Baby Boomer cohorts could wear. “Honestly, I thought, ‘I’ve really got some-thing here,’” she said. “I did it for myself initially. Then, I re-alized this was fashion for an

entire generation. We were to-tally overlooked.”

DG2 was designed for Gilman’s body, not the body of a young fit model. She said

wearing the jeans was transformative. “That jean was such a revelation to wear,” said Gilman, who sometimes makes it sound like jeans could save the world. “It was interesting how dif-ferent people treated me. I love it be-cause it’s purpose-driven and solution-driven clothing.”

When Gilman designed the jeans, she was in need of a solution. Her husband had died after a seven-year battle with cancer. His death left Gilman bereft. She did what many unhappy people do: She ate. By the time she was fin-ished, her doctor told her she was half a pound shy of obesity.

“I had rolls in my midriff,” she said. “When I sat, I could barely breathe. I was 59, I wasn’t happy, I didn’t date and I

looked like an old woman. I had made food my husband. Once I understood that I’m an emotion-al eater I could start working on the problem.”

Gilman had other motiva-tion — her fans. She was gain-ing weight on TV and viewers weren’t always kind. “I had to [lose weight] to keep my validity,” she said. “Television is a tough taskmaster. I was getting hate mail. People said, ‘You’re too fat to wear that outfit.’”

Now, Gilman and her custom-ers wear skinny jeggings, boot-cut jeans and stretch denim flares. Soon, there will be the dressier Forever Black col-lection. She is also working on a project that involves putting the lyrics of clas-sic Sixties songs on jeans.. “We’re doing the Rolling Stones’ lyrics” on jeans, she said. “My generation broke out in the Sixties. One of the great battle cries of the Sixties was girls wearing jeans. If I could capture that Baby Boomer audi-ence, there’s a million golden memories in every pant leg.”

Buccellati to Unveil New Store Concept

Diane Gilman selling on-air.

By LUISA ZARGANI

MILAN — Buccellati has found a new home in New York, where it will introduce an updated store concept by the end of October.

Positioned in a five-floor townhouse in a premium lo-cation on Madison Avenue, among such brands as David Yurman, Graff, Chopard and Girard-Perregaux, the venue will cover a total of 6,480 square feet, of which 3,240 square feet will be dedi-cated to commercial space. Haute joaillerie, the bridal engagement and silver col-lections, bespoke watches and a VIP area will be avail-able over three floors. The fourth level will house a showroom, and the top story will be a space dedicated to parties and events.

The new concept has been designed by Vudafieri Saverino Partners. Architects Tiziano Vudafieri and Claudio Saverino are known in fashion circles for creating concept stores for brands including Tod’s, Roger Vivier, Moschino, Emilio Pucci and Jimmy Choo, in addition to restaurants in Milan such as Pisacco.

“It’s the perfect location,” said chief executive officer Thierry Andretta, explaining that the prime positioning “accelerated” the decision-making. The new store will also allow the brand to ex-pand, as the current space, also on Madison Avenue, at 1,404 square feet, is too small, he noted.

“America is the most impor-tant market in terms of noto-

riety, visibility and affection,” said Andretta. “There has al-ways been a particular atten-tion to us.” The brand has been available in the U.S. since 1952 and today the U.S. accounts for just less than 40 percent of total sales — for which a figure was not provided.

Americans are also among the main customers in Europe, along with shoppers from Russia, Japan, China and the Middle East.

Retail accounts for more than 50 percent of the com-pany’s sales and Andretta said there are no plans to change this balance, continuing to highly select distribution. “Our development passes through highly identified and personalized stores. The po-sitioning is so high that the brand needs to be explained and described,” said the ex-ecutive, citing as an example how the engraving of a ring takes from eight to 28 hours.

The new store concept blends tradition and moder-nity, said Vudafieri, and “tells

with subliminal messages” Buccellati’s history. For this reason, the architects main-tained a number of “signs” from the previous concepts, such as traditional panels in damask fabric and the classic golden glass showcases, while bringing the brand forward.

The combination of tradi-tion and contemporary design, said Vudafieri, includes a dark oak wood floor set in a classic Versailles pattern, vertically striped walls in smoked mol-ten glass alternated with strips of brushed oak and new “su-perminimal” display cases on which classic Buccellati golden bronze capitals are mounted. The furniture, chairs and sofas are from storied Italian furni-ture and design firm Giorgetti.

Andretta said the store will be associated with the arts. The first artist select-ed is contemporary artist Riccardo Beretta, incidentally also chosen by Fondazione Prada for its latest exhibition at the Venice Biennale. For Buccellati, Beretta is creating

panels worked as paintings in inlaid and chiseled wood to be displayed on the ground floor of the boutique and in its VIP room. “It’s a very sophisti-cated concept with an equally sophisticated artisanal qual-ity,” said Vudafieri, noting the closeness to Buccellati’s own craftsmanship.

Andretta said the idea is to create “a warm welcoming space, such as a home.”

The company is set to open a second store in Bal Harbour, Fla., covering al-most 7,000 square feet. “It’s very important as an access to South American custom-ers,” explained Andretta of the location. Coming up soon: a space at Neiman Marcus in Palm Beach, which will grant “visibility to tourists.”

There are two existing stores in London, and units in Milan, Paris and the luxu-ry resort town Cala di Volpe in Sardinia. In the U.S., there are venues in New York, Chicago, Aspen and Beverly Hills. Gradually, each store will be revamped. The New York blueprint will not neces-sarily be replicated globally. Andretta said the company is looking for “the right” loca-tion in Hong Kong, given its “strong growth.”

Private equity firm Clessidra SGR acquired a majority stake in Buccellati last year, with the name-sake family still maintaining shares in the firm. As part of its new course, the brand is also launching a new, mod-ernized logo. Creative di-rector Andrea Buccellati is now flanked by his designer daughter, Lucrezia.

It’s in the Jeans: Gilman Celebrates 20 Years on HSN

Inside Buccellati.

By MILES SOCHA

PARIS — Gérald Asaria, a former chief executive officer of Lanvin and Condé Nast France, died on May 31 after a long battle with cancer. He was 72.

His death notice was published in Saturday’s edition of Le Monde by APREC, a cancer research charity that Asaria supported for more than 30 years.

Brigitte Bury, a former colleague, said services took place Thursday at the Notre-Dame de Grâce de Passy church here in the presence of many figures from fashion and publishing, includ-ing Jonathan Newhouse, chairman and ceo of Condé Nast International, and L’Oréal’s former honorary chairman Sir Lindsay Owen-Jones.

Asaria is survived by his wife, Fabienne, and two children, Raphael and Pauline, Bury said.

Asaria started his career as a re-porter for such titles as Paris Match and Marie Claire. He launched Vogue Hommes in 1976 and also worked at Automobiles Classiques magazine.

Asaria ultimately became chairman of Condé Nast SA in France for seven years, until 1994. During his tenure at the French magazine publisher, he launched French Glamour, which in 1995 merged into French Vogue and was then re-launched in 2004.

Asaria joined Jeanne Lanvin SA as managing director in 1995 when it was then a subsidiary of the beauty giant L’Oréal.

When a group of investors led by Taiwanese publishing magnate Shaw-Lan Wang acquired Lanvin, Asaria left the fashion house and joined Shu Uemura, part of L’Oréal’s luxury products division.

An avid sportsman, Asaria loved ski-ing at Val d’Isère as well as golf, and was passionate about cars and football, Bury said.

OBITUARY

Gérald Asaria, 72

’’

’’

[Gilman’s] sharing stories and talking to [viewers] as if they’re

girlfriends.— BILL BRAND, HSN

10 WWD MONDAY, JUNE 9, 2014

ON THURSDAY AFTERNOON, Stella McCartney took over the Elizabeth Street Garden in Manhattan’s Little Italy to present her resort collection. With its wild

vegetation and abandoned stone statues, the garden, between Spring and Prince Streets, is a popular spot in the neighborhood that already looks enchanted

most days of the week.But McCartney added

her own touches — human statues, a bossa nova band, spritelike models frolicking between the ferns in her designs. It all seemed ripped from the set of Disney’s “Maleficent,” if only they served Veuve Clicquot Champagne and vegan appetizers from food trucks in the Enchanted Forest.

“It’s one of those really magical gardens in New York City,” Liya Kebede said. “You don’t imagine it’s here in the middle of the city.”

The model was a regular here some years ago when she was part of a community garden and she was pleased to be back. “It’s giving us that, ‘OK, summer is here’ feeling,” she said.

McCartney’s garden parties for resort have become a tradition — last year’s was at

Jefferson Market Garden. This year’s fairy-tale vibe seemed, if vaguely,

informed by the designer’s recent collaboration with Disney on a children’s capsule collection inspired by “Maleficent.” There was even for a second a rumor going about that Angelina Jolie herself would turn up. Alas, she didn’t — not even at the last minute like Madonna last year.

But the cast of characters populating

McCartney’s fantasy was diverse — and all part of the McCartney club of friends and fans: Liv Tyler, Maggie Gyllenhaal, Amber Heard, Lucy Liu, Jessica Seinfeld and Cara Delevingne but also “Saturday Night Live” impresario Lorne Michaels; the artists

Kara Walker and Jeff Koons; the photographers Nan Goldin, Peter Beard and Marilyn Minter, and the musician

Aluna Francis of the band AlunaGeorge.

“I feel like there’s hidden gems to see, shoes hidden in secret places or something. That’s what it feels like,” said Francis, who was in town to play the Governors Ball festival on Sunday.

“It’s very Greek goddess in the garden. Or fairies and sprites,” said Alison Brie, who suddenly felt very short in the presence of some Amazonian models. “I’m like, ‘Maybe I shouldn’t have worn flats?’” she said.

The actress is moving on from “Mad Men” as it wraps up its run. She’s working on a film that’s far removed from the world of fantasy, a romantic comedy from the director of “Bachelorette,” Leslye Headland, that’s called “Sleeping With Other People.”

“Jason Sudeikis and I play a serial womanizer and a sex addict, respectively, who become friends to help each other form regular relationships and end up falling in love. Spoiler!” she said. Ah, a fairy-tale ending after all.

— E.M.

Call of the Wild

ONE OF THE oldest photographers shooting arrivals at the Costume Institute gala this year was surely Ron Galella, 83.

He doesn’t shoot paparazzo style anymore — he can’t, not with his cane and clunky orthopedic shoes. He was just stationed by the TV crews and waited for all the stars to promenade in front of him. “It’s easy shooting,” he says. “My favorites are Taylor Swift, Nicole Kidman. She’s going to be Grace Kelly, you know?”

The gala is the only event Galella works anymore, but he is not retired. This month, he’s publishing a new book, his 15th, again culling the old, by now familiar, images from his archives and categorized under a particular theme. New York is the subject of the latest one and it will be followed up with tomes tentatively titled “Sexy Fashion” and “Nudes.” You can guess what those are about.

Galella spends his day poring over his vast archives searching for some picture he overlooked, some gem buried in his contacts. “Mining the gold in my files,” as he says. He’s not another old guy reminiscing about his heyday — or not just. Nostalgia is a big business for him, the engine that keeps him living in the style of Tony Soprano, in a palatial home in a tony neighborhood of New Jersey — Montville, in his case. Interest in all his pictures from back when he was still the undefeated don of the paparazzi — of Jackie, Liz and Brando — keeps him in circulation in fine art galleries around the world. An 8-by-10 print might easily fetch $2,500, and he distributes scores of them to galleries daily.

“That’s where I make my money, really. It’s the gallery prints. The books are a good showcase, but I don’t make much money for them,” he says. “I’m reaping the benefits of a long career.”

Galella was speaking from the home he’s shared with his wife Betty for more than two decades. It is covered top to bottom in pictures — a Jackie over the fireplace, a Liz by the staircase, an Andy Warhol etched onto the back of a chair — and fistfuls of porcelain rabbits — his

and Betty’s favorite animal. Boxes of film are scattered all over the place — “Mick Jagger Alone,” “Elvis Presley with others.” The negatives of his most

famous pictures — “Windblown Jackie” and a shot of Galella in a football helmet trailing Marlon Brando — are also here, stored away in a safe.

He’s on a couch, with all his books displayed in front of him, flipping through the pages of “New York,” the new book from

Damiani and Row NYC that features images extending from 1968 to 1992, all the way from Warhol’s prime to his memorial service luncheon.

There’s Madonna and Sean Penn in 1986 walking into a restaurant. Galella recalls his nephew got into a fight with the actor.

“Madonna was yelling, ‘Stop, stop! Come in!’” he says. “Sean stopped, then turned around and socked [a paparazzo]

in the nose. He didn’t pick on me because I’m bigger. Sean Penn is kinda puny.”

In those days, he drove to Manhattan from the Bronx, where he lived in his father’s basement, in a 1970 Pontiac Firebird, bright yellow and orange. “They always knew when I was coming,” he says.

There’s Warhol and Keith Haring at Tunnel in 1986.

“Andy liked me a lot, I think, because we liked the same celebrities and because I had the chutzpah and he was shy and he didn’t get the pictures I got,” he says. “We had the same social

disease. We want to be everywhere and we want to cover everything.”

There’s Diane von Furstenberg in 1978 at Studio 54, all legs and high cheekbones.

“At the Met gala, she came up to me and kissed me,” he says. “She’s the only celebrity that came over and kissed me.”

It makes sense that von Furstenberg would be the only personality to appreciate him — she came of age in the public eye in a time before TMZ, Kim Kardashian and Instagram

overshares, before image management was a key element of celebrity stagecraft.

“Today, the celebrities have changed. They’re more aware of the cameras,” Galella says, disappointed. “I like stars being themselves instead of posing where you get a phony expression. I keep my distance. I’m not an insider like Patrick McMullan. He gets all the stars posing together. I don’t like that style.”

He’ll still shoot the Costume Institute gala again next year, if only just to stay in practice. But nothing else. He has books to publish yet, one a year if he keeps up his pace. “I have no time,” he says. “I’m 83.”

— ERIK MAZA

At Home With the Don

eye

Ron Galella

Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Polly Mellen and Christy Turlington, 1989.

Jerry Hall

and Mick

Jagger,

1984.

Andy Warhol and Keith Haring, 1986.

Sean Penn and

Madonna, 1986.

Amber Heard in Stella McCartney.

PHOT

OS B

Y ST

EVE

EICH

NER

PHOT

O BY

STE

VE E

ICHN

ER

FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE

WWD.com/eye.Aluna

Francis

Maggie Gyllenhaal in Stella McCartney

with the designer.

WWD.COM11WWD MONDAY, JUNE 9, 2014

FRENCH ACCENT: Givenchy is to hold its resort presentation and showroom in Paris later this month instead of New York. The shift comes as the fast-growing French fashion house becomes more retail focused, and increasingly centers its operations and sales effort in Paris, chief executive officer Sebastian Suhl told WWD. Details on the format and timing of its press event are still being finalized. — MILES SOCHA

BECKHAM ON THE ROAD: The David Beckham collection for Belstaff will finally make its debut on Tuesday. The former soccer star, who is also the face of Belstaff ’s 2014 global ad campaign, designed a capsule collection of 10 motorbiking pieces that will be sold on belstaff.com. “Deciding to work with Belstaff was the easiest decision to make, as I already have a few vintage Belstaff classic jackets in my wardrobe. That, coupled with the fact I’m a biker,

made it a perfect fit,” Beckham said. “My moto capsule collection is a reflection of what I wear day to day when I’m biking or relaxing. I buy a lot of vintage pieces and my collection reflects that feel. It all fits together and I wear every item in it.” Retail prices range from $95 for a T-shirt and $395 for pants to $695 for boots and $1,950 for a leather jacket. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

BEYOND JUICY: “We called our noncompete ‘fashion jail,’ and when we got out of fashion jail, we just went crazy,” said Gela Nash-Taylor who, along with her business partner Pamela Skaist-Levy, founded Juicy Couture and launched Pam & Gela, a new casual luxury line. The Los Angeles designers have written a book, “The Glitter Plan: How We Started Juicy Couture for $200 and Turned it Into a Global Brand,” which is part memoir-part story of their intense friendship and love of fashion. They were interviewed Thursday night at Bloomingdale’s Manhattan flagship by Glenda Bailey, editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar, and later signed copies of their book in their Pam & Gela in-store shop.

The designers spoke about Juicy’s sale to the former Liz Claiborne Inc., and recalled an initial meeting when Paul Charron, former Claiborne chief executive officer, asked the designers about their IT platform. “I thought it was a shoe,” said Skaist-Levy.

Asked whether “big is the killer of cool,” Nash-Taylor replied, “Juicy got so big, and it does become the killer of cool.

When you’re outside and you’re small and you’re edgy, you’re cool, but when it becomes so mainstream, it’s hard to keep cool.” The women admitted that they tried to buy Juicy Couture back and declined comment on Juicy Couture’s sale to Authentic Brands Group for $196

million and its new home at Kohl’s. “I don’t want to speculate. I want to stay in the positive,” said Skaist-Levy.

— LISA LOCKWOOD

DRIP, DRIP, DRIP: Starbucks is partnering with Los Angeles-based clothing label Band of Outsiders for a collection of two exclusive mugs. The Band of Outsiders for Starbucks Limited Edition Designer Ceramic Mugs (12 oz.) feature a design that pays tribute to founder and creative director Scott Sternberg’s favorite slang word for coffee, “drip.” The mugs feature black or multicolor paint dripping down Starbucks’ signature coffee

cups. The mugs retail for $14.95 in the U.S., and $16.95 in Canada. They will be available from Tuesday.

Sternberg said the deal came through Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the Council of Fashion Designers of America. “You get these phone calls from Steven a couple of times a year and he usually prefaces it ‘You’re going to say no,’ but I sort of surprised him and instinctually and immediately jumped on it,” said Sternberg. The Band of Outsiders for Starbucks mugs will go into 9,000 doors.

This is Starbucks’ fifth designer collaboration. Previous collaborations have been with Jonathan Adler, Rodarte, Charlotte Ronson and Stacey Bendet of Alice + Olivia. — L.L.

REDBOOK’S FAMILIAR FACE: Redbook on Friday said that it promoted Meredith Rollins to editor in chief. Rollins succeeds Jill Herzig, who was named editor in chief of Hearst sister publication Dr. Oz The Good Life in mid-May.

Rollins, who has held the role of executive editor since 2010, also served as executive editor of Condé Nast’s Lucky. Prior to that, she was articles director at W.

“Meredith brings continuity and experience, making her the perfect choice for this role,” said Hearst Magazines president David Carey.

Rollins added: “Redbook is the only magazine that’s a truly all-access pass to great style. I have loved being part of the Redbook team and helping the brand evolve to where it is today.”

The appointment of Rollins to editor in chief dispels rumors in the halls of Hearst that Redbook and Woman’s Day might merge as one magazine. When asked about that, Carey told WWD that both titles would continue to have separate editors in chief, but that across the organization’s “midrange” magazines, “sharing resources” would continue to occur. “Many of our brands will share. More people in the organization will work on one brand. They can touch more than one business,” he said. “Magazines sharing resources — you will see that across Hearst.”

But this isn’t new, Carey said, pointing to Esquire and Popular Mechanics, which have overlapping editorial staff, as well as to Car and Driver and Road & Track, as examples. Carey said the company’s top talent would be “spread” around that way.

But he didn’t mention the other rationale for such consolidation: cost-cutting. — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD

VANITY FAIR’S FUNNY MAN: Michael Carl, Vanity Fair’s fashion market director, has capitalized on his witty social media presence, translating it to video. Produced by Condé Nast Entertainment, Carl’s new series, which appears on YouTube, is basically his Twitter handle, @CarlsCrush, come to life, he told WWD.

“It was a joint collaboration between me and CNE, and it kind of started off inspired by my love affair with sports,” Carl said, explaining that he originally wanted to appear at an anchor’s desk and report the news à la ESPN — only the news would be irreverent and fashion-centric. Carl, who has filmed five two-and-a-half

minute episodes thus far, humorously explains his world — one of clichéd largess and extravagant personalities — to the non-fashion insider.

“Everyone at Vanity Fair is very nervous because I really don’t know where the line is,” he said, referring to the line where pumping up the bravado becomes unattractive. “That fine line — I’m very confused where that line is.”

That’s doubtful.The editor quickly pivoted and

explained that he’s going to film a self-deprecating video, which pokes fun at his social media alter ego.

And capturing that fabulous, fashion-boy persona on camera hasn’t been easy, he admitted. “Looking into the camera was hard at first. It took a full day to come up with one episode and then I had several media trainings soon after,” he said, as he offered his newly discovered method for calming his nerves. “I pretend I’m talking to my brother,” he said. — A.S.

EXITING: Hugo Boss U.S. has been hit by another departure. On Friday, Ward Simmons, vice president of marketing and public relations for the Americas, left the German brand after six-and-a-half years. His resignation follows that of Mark Brashear, who stepped down last week as chairman and chief executive officer of the U.S. arm of the company. In an e-mail, Simmons said despite “a lot of change in upper management at Hugo Boss” recently, his departure had been brewing for the past several months as he has “some family personal issues to deal with.” He could not be reached for further comment.

According to industry sources, neither resignation is related to poor quarterly performance or a major realignment of the American business, but come as a result of centralizing the corporation at its Metzingen, Germany headquarters, leaving executives who had previously enjoyed some autonomy with more direct oversight. — JEAN E. PALMIERI

NEW TO TEEN VOGUE: Teen Vogue said it filled the void left from the departures of fashion director Gloria Baume and online editorial director Naomi Nevitt. The magazine tapped Style.com’s market director Marina Larroude for Baume’s old post, and Dan Koday, who comes from Latina.com as executive content director, as its new digital director. Prior to Latina.com, Koday served as deputy editor at Alloy Digital. According to Teen Vogue, Larroude will start at the new gig on July 7, and Koday will start his new job on June 30. — A.S.

MEMO PAD

FASHION SCOOPS

FOR MORE SCOOPS, SEE

WWD.com.

The cover of “The Glitter Plan.”

A Band of Outsiders

coffee mug.

A look from David Beckham’s collection for Belstaff.

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