ISSUE #29

March 2011 / 03

CONTENTSCEO’s Letter / 05

Fiona Jenvey, Mudpie’s CEO

MPD Sources: South Korean Up & Comers / 06

New designers from South Korea

MPD Meets: Marian Kihogo / 08Blogger, consultant and stylist catches up with MPDClick

MPD Meets: Heather Moore / 12South African textile designer and founder of Skinny LaMinx

MPD Hotspot: Paris / 14Paris Fashion Week special

MPD OneToWatch: Brightly Coloured Korea / 20

Mi-Zo, Hyesoo You & Kyungsun Byun

MPD Focus: Kaleidoscope / 24Middle Eastern tiling becomes a strong design influence

MPD Look: Spirit Warrior / 28Looking to ethereal and layered styles for inspiration

MPD Highlight: London Fashion Week / 30

Behind the scenes at LFW

MPD Highlight: Best of Street / 32

Hottest looks from around the shows

MPD Highlight: The Season’s Key Looks / 34

The very best from the season’s runways so far

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14

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For further information on our products and services please visit www.mudpie.co.uk, email us at enquire@mudpie.co.uk or call us on +44 1794 344040

Why not follow us on twitter: @mudpietrends, facebook: mpdclick street trends and linked in

March 2011 / 05

Today we live in interesting times. As change sweeps through the Middle East, is it still business as usual for the fashion world? It certainly seems so; following New York Fashion Week the Arab world have also just concluded their own fashion

week, with exhibits by emerging designers from Lebanon, Saudi Arabia and Dubai with no mention of the unrest in the region. This was not the case in New York, where the Fashion Week coincided with the resignation of the president of Egypt. According to Sally Singer, editor-in-chief of the New York Times Style Magazine; people will want to mark the changes in the Middle East by dressing differently. On the day that Hosni Mubarak resigned there was huge excitement buzzing around the designers at New York Fashion Week; the Middle East will be the next big thing. The fashion industry has challenges to face in the supply chain, however; widespread worker unrest has been reported in textile mills across Egypt and Turkey, while a surge in international cotton prices of almost 45% between the start of the year and mid-February has dealt another blow.Appropriately this edition of mpdinsight is a creative bazaar, combining a myriad of influences curated from almost every continent. On the eve of Paris Fashion Week we identify Paris as this issue’s Hotspot. Closer to home, following news that this year at London Fashion Week 33% of press accreditations were given to bloggers, compared with last year’s 22%, we interview Marian Kihogo to find her view on the blogging phenomenon – her eponymous blog, mariankihogo.com, is one of fashion’s most influential. Continuing with influences for autumn, we interview the South African illustrator Heather

CEO’S LETTER

Fiona Jenvey, CEO of Mudpie, considers the impact that recent protests in the Middle East will have on the region’s design and textile output, as well as the other articles in this month’s issue.

Moore speaks to mpdclick about her work. Heather’s brand, Skinny LaMinx, is stocked worldwide and is influenced by the craft like aesthetic normally associated with Scandinavia. Looking forward to A/W 12/13, we cite South Korea as an influence for Synthesise, our technology trend. In fashion terms we are influenced by the K-Pop movement, and the graphic artist Minori Murakami, however it is innovation that is Korea’s most exciting export and our article on South Korea’s finest exports identifies the nation as the world’s most advanced region for emerging creativity. Northern Europe influences the latest A/W 11 Spirit Warrior look which has sent maxi lengths and fluid draped fabrics sweeping down the worlds runways we look at the American designer Mara Hoffman for inspiration in our article Spirit Warrior which confirms the Primal trend which we forecast for AW 11/12. A trend which sits perfectly with fashions reawakening affinity with nature.

Fiona Jenvey, CEO

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GROUNDWAVE

AFTER CAUSING A STIR AT SEOUL FASHION WEEK WITH THEIR ASYMMETRIC CUTS AND DRAPED SILHOUETTES, KIM SUN HO AND PARK JUNG EUN CONTINUE TO INSPIRE WITH THEIR GROUNDWAVE LINE. THE DUO’S SPRING/SUMMER 11 COLLECTION PROVES PARTICULARLY RELEVANT TO MPDCLICK’S UPCOMING TECHNOLOGY-DRIVEN TREND WITH A FUSION OF CONTRASTING FABRICS INCLUDING TRADITIONAL WITH ARTIFICIAL, PUSHING AN INDUSTRIAL HI-TECH AESTHETIC. A SELECTIVE NEUTRAL COLOUR PALETTE ALLOWED THE DYNAMIC FABRIC USE TAKE CENTRE STAGE. GROUNDWAVE PROVIDE INSPIRATION THROUGH THEIR IMMACULATE ATTENTION TO DETAIL AND MODERN CASUAL TAILORING, WHICH HAS BEEN ADMIRED THROUGHOUT THEIR SHOWS IN BOTH ITALY AND PARIS.

GENERAL IDEA

BUMSUK CHOI, THE FACE BEHIND GENERAL IDEA BECAME THE YOUNGEST DESIGNER TO JOIN SEOUL FASHION WEEK IN 2004 AT THE TENDER AGE OF 24. HE HAS SINCE BUILT UP AN INTERNATIONAL BRAND AND GONE ON TO SHOW AT THE PRESTIGIOUS NEW YORK FASHION WEEK. THE CONCEPT BEHIND HIS BRAND CELEBRATES AVANT-GARDE DESIGN WITH AN URBAN EDGE, ENSURING HIS CLOTHING RETAINS COMMERCIAL APPEAL. CHOI HAS WRITTEN TWO BOOKS SPURRED BY HIS PASSION FOR DESIGN, INTRODUCING HIS INSPIRATIONS & INFLUENCES AND CHRONICLING HIS JOURNEY TO INTERNATIONALLY DISTINGUISH HIS BRAND.

DOII LEE

LONDON’S CENTRAL ST MARTINS GRADUATE DOII LEE’S IMPRESSIVE CV BOASTS PLACEMENTS WITH BOTH JOHN GALLIANO AND THE CHRISTIAN DIOR TEAM. LEE WAS THEN PERSONALLY HEADHUNTED BY ANTONIO MARRASS TO WORK AT KENZO. HER EXPERIENCE WORKING WITH THESE ESTABLISHED DESIGNERS, AND THE PASSION SHE DISCOVERED, LED TO THE LAUNCH OF HER OWN LABEL; DOII PARIS IN 2005.HER SUCCESSFUL LINE HAS AN ULTRA FEMININE TOUCH, AIMED AT INDEPENDENT WOMEN WHO ARE DEFINED AS BEING “SEXY AND FUN WITH A FEMININE EDGE.”LEE HAS SHOWN IN HER HOMELAND OF SOUTH KOREA, AS WELL AS PRESENTING HER COLLECTION TWICE A YEAR AT PARIS FASHION WEEK.

THE CENTAUR

YE RANJI, FOUNDER OF THE CENTAUR, IS KNOWN FOR CREATING UNIQUE MULTIMEDIA EXPERIENCES WITH COLLECTIONS AND EXHIBITIONS THAT COMBINE FASHION DESIGN, FILM-MAKING AND PHOTOGRAPHY. ONCE A PART OF THE GENERATION NEXT SHOWCASE FOR EMERGING TALENT IN SOUTH KOREA, YE RANJI FIRMLY BELIEVES THAT UP & COMING DESIGNERS LIKE HERSELF SHOULD OFFER A THRILLING SENSATION. CREDITED WITH CREATING “ONLY IDEALISTICALLY DRIVEN COLLECTIONS”, THE YOUNG DESIGNER AIMS TO DISCOVER WHAT MUST BE SAID AND WHAT MUST BE KEPT SECRET FOR EACH WOMAN.RANJI’ S MAIN FOCUS IS TO CREATE A NARRATIVE THROUGH HER WORK, ADDING AN INNOVATIVE AND INTERESTING PERSPECTIVE TO HER PIECES.

JUUN J

SHOWCASING HIS COLLECTIONS IN PARIS SINCE 2007, SOUTH KOREAN CREATIVE JUUN J’S INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION AS A MENSWEAR DESIGNER CONTINUES TO FLOURISH. THE DESIGNER LAUNCHED HIS OWN LINE IN 1999 UNDER THE NAME LONE COSTUME, CHANGING IT SIMPLY TO JUUN J IN 2006. HIS SIGNATURE STYLE INCLUDES A STRONG MILITARY AESTHETIC, OFTEN FEATURING STRAPS, STRUCTURED SHOULDERS AND TRENCH COATS, REFLECTIVE OF HIS COMPULSORY MILITARY SERVICE IN SOUTH KOREA. JUUN J CONTINUES TO PROVIDE INSPIRATION THROUGH HIS UNIQUE JUXTAPOSITION OF RIGID STRUCTURING & SOFT SHAPES, SHARP CUTS & LOOSE DRAPING.

YOUNG LI LEE

LONDON COLLEGE OF FASHION GRADUATE YOUNG LI LEE IS ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING NEW TALENTS TO EMERGE FROM SOUTH KOREA. THE YOUNG DESIGNER WAS AWARDED THE HIGHLY COMMENDED AWARD AT LCF’S 2010 FINAL MA SHOW FOR HER WOMENSWEAR COLLECTION. THE WAVE OF A WOMAN’S HAIR COMBINED WITH A FRENCH ROPE SCULPTING TECHNIQUE WAS USED TO CREATE PATTERNS, GIVING THE GARMENTS A VOLUMINOUS STRUCTURE. THE OVERRIDING MOOD PUSHED A SENSE OF SOPHISTICATED ELEGANCE WITH A MODERN LADY-LIKE AESTHETIC, WITH SPECIAL MENTION GIVEN FOR HER EXQUISITE DRESSES THAT INCLUDED INTRICATELY PLEATED APPLIQUÉS.

SOUTH KOREA’S UP AND COMERSWith Seoul Fashion Week continually growing, South Korea is quickly becoming recognised as an emerging fashion capital, alongside the likes of London, New York, Paris or Milan. New fashion talents are constantly emerging from the country, gaining global attention with many showcasing their collections worldwide. Mpdclick pick six of our favourite up & coming designers.

Words by Amy Trayford

Sources

GROUNDWAVE

B1 546-24,SINSA-SONG

GANGNAM-GU,135-880 SEOULSOUTH KOREA

TEL: +82 25 1765 90

DOII PARIS/SEOUL

1F, 525-23 SINSA-DONG,

GANGNAM-GU,SEOUL,

SOUTH KOREATEL: +82 2 555 1012

WWW.DOIIPARIS.COM

GENERAL IDEA

663-4 5F SINSA-DONG,GANGNAM-GU,SEOUL 135-897, SOUTH KOREATEL: +82 2546 6414

WWW.GENERALIDEA.COM.KR

YOUNG LI LEE

STOCKED AT SELFRIDGES 400 OXFORD ST

LONDONW1A 1AB

TEL: +44 0800 123 400

WWW.SELFRIDGES.COM

THE CENTAUR

401 BY 1F #15,DOSAN TOWER,EULJIRO 6 GA JUNG-GUSEOUL SOUTH KOREATEL : +82 23 398 5760

WWW.THECENTAUR.CO.UK.KR

JUUN J

3F RAEMIAN BUILDING524-17,

SINSA-DONG,GANGNAM-GU,

135-888 SEOUL,SOUTH KOREA

TEL +82 2515 0351/0343

WWW.JUUNJ.COM

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“Marian’s expert & eloquent editorial, social media prowess and valued connection with her readers sets her apart from her contemporaries”

With the much anticipated London Fashion Week setting the British capital abuzz this week, I caught up with one of the event’s most influential attendees, Marian Kihogo. As some of the world’s elite designers, editors and a welcome spate of rather colourful trends jet in, droves of readers (both industry professionals and enthusiasts alike) access her website daily for the latest news fresh off London’s runways. As a stylist to the stars, contributing editor to PUSH IT magazine and creative consultant helping brands to increase their online presence, Marian’s website far exceeds the traditional realms of blogging. With interactive polls on fashion’s latest looks, reader competitions and a behind the scenes peek at top industry events, Marian is passionate about sharing her experiences, insider knowledge and designer lustings with her readers.

Blogging, or rather blogging etiquette, is also rather a timely debate as the ready-to-wear shows are upon us, and a subject close to Marian. A post last year on mariankihgog.com highlighted difference between the hoards of new, often unqualified attendees and an industry professional that just happens to blog, “Do they

know how to properly review a collection? Are they using the right lingo and technical language?” she questions. Recently, The Times published an article stating “last February, 22 per cent of the total press accreditations granted by the British Fashion Council to LFW were given to bloggers. This year, the number has increased to 33 per cent.”

As the blogger debate rages on, Marian’s expert combination of sartorially eloquent editorial, social media prowess and valued connection with her readers sets her apart from her contemporaries.

Hi Marian, what have you been doing today?

I have been covering fall winter 2011 shows at New York Fashion Week. I just saw the Nanette Lepore show and will be seeing the Milly by Millicent Smith and Elie Tahari show later today. This morning I attended the Daisy Eau So Fresh perfume by Marc Jacobs breakfast launch as hosted by face of the fragrance, Hannah Holman.

OPPOSITE: MARIAN KIHOGO & SCREENSHOT FROM MARIANKIHOGO.COMABOVE: MORE FROM MARIANKIHOGO.COM

Meets

MARIAN KIHOGOThis season, one of the main talking points at London Fashion Week is the explosion in the number of bloggers in attendance. To find out more about this phenomenon we caught up with stylist, blogger and consultant Marian Kihogo.

Interview by Sarah Wade, Managing Editor

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Meets

What was your NYFW highlight?

Thakoon! His mix of prim Victorian structure meets nomadic East African Maasai was thought provoking!

From what you’ve seen so far, how does the mood for autumn/winter 11 feel?

It is enthusiastic! What with the brights with neon acids, I lost track of the number of shows with bold colour. The embellishment and use of lace, fringing, embroidery, gold and detail signify a continued move from the pared back austerity that recession influenced.

London Fashion Week has a reputation for its street style, with many commenting that the fashion is as good off the runways as on. What’s your opinion on this?

I am a big believer in the power of street style. I think street style and the runway has an incredible symbiotic relationship. They

In between shows, I have been liaising with PR with reference to garments for clients to wear to London Fashion Week. When it is not fashion month, no two days for me are the same.

Being a stylist, creative consultant and contributing online editor I am constantly juggling a mix of duties. Everything from styling appointments, meetings with clients with reference to creative consulting, PR appointments etc.

As we’re right at the crux of ready-to-wear season, are there any trends or designers you’ve been excited to see this season?

Being a huge fan of the 1970’s palette and luxe glam aesthetic, I am excited to see that this trend will continue on from spring summer 2011 into fall winter 2011-2012.

Beauty wise, I have been fascinated by the use of gold and other metallics on brows at Jen Kao, or on hair as we saw at Betsey Johnson and Jason Wu.

“Traditional media can come across as dictatorial. Its format does not allow for much interaction”

Marian Kihogo

ABOVE: MARIAN, COURTESY OF LUCKY MAGAZINE/TOMMY AGRIODIMASOPPOSITE: PHOTO BY MICHELLE BOBB-PARRIS;AT LONDON FASHION WEEK WITH MPDCLICK MANAGING EDITOR SARAH WADE

feed off of each other. We see trends like McQueen’s bumster look that started on the street that get reinterpreted for the catwalk. In that same vein, catwalk trends are translated and personalised by individuals on the street. So fashion off the runway is important; is it as good as the runway? I think that would depend on perspective. Street style could never replace the need for the runway but they work hand in hand.

When did an online platform become an important addition for you, and why?

I started personal styling in high school, 14 years ago. This developed into styling for editorial while at college. Over time I got into editing fashion online. Online became an important platform for me when I realised that I was intrigued by the interaction it allowed for. The power of print media will never be surpassed but for me digital is a truly incredible tool.

On your website, mariankihogo.com, your informed content gives readers behind-the-scenes glimpse at the

fashion industry. For budding bloggers and enthusiasts out there, which kind of posts would you say garner the largest reception?

That is an interesting question. The record of my personal style and the reasoning behind it as documented in my ‘Style Diary’ always creates conversation. It is also always interesting to hear the thoughts and views on catwalk trends in the ‘What Say Thou’ trend poll segments. I think blog readers like to be given the chance to weigh in on fashion, beauty and culture issues.

You combine reporting with interactive polls where readers can rate products and trends. To you, how important is this interactivity?

Oh it is everything! To me the interaction is truly everything. Blogs allow for that immediate response from ones readership. In my opinion, this is the edge they have over traditional media.It is a wonderful thing to able to interact and converse over what is happening with readers.

There is always more than one perspective and if someone living in the middle of nowhere, with no access to fashion can provide a new perspective to something old that for me is Mariankihogo.com’s reason for being.

How do you feel about the current blogging ‘phenomenon’?

Personally I think it is a wonderful thing. Off course with every phenomenon there is the good and bad but the chaff is always blown away. Blogging might have its gimmicks but I believe that blogging will continue to grow as a medium. I think it fills the gap that traditional media can have. Traditional media can come across as dictatorial. Its format does not allow for much interaction. So when done well, blogging can fill that gap.

Do you have any favourite fashion bloggers?

Yes I do! I like Michelle Bobb-Parris, whose Who is Bobb-Parris street style blog always inspires. I love Emily Weiss’s Into the Gloss site; the beauty blog is simply wonderful. I check into Sea of Shoes when I can. I think Jane is extremely intelligent and has an interesting point of view.

In your role as a stylist, is there a trusted source that you always turn to for inspiration?

What a wonderful question! So many! If I had to choose one it would have to be people as a whole. Even when I was as young as six, I’d ask my Mother to take me to the roadside to watch people go by. The inspiration people give me is infinite. From the way someone passing by might have worn their hat, the punk meets preppy girl wearing a Peter Pan collar with pink hair, the bag lady whose bags might give me something new to ponder on, right through to the guy selling sandwiches on the street. My main inspiration has always been people.

What’s inspiring you today?

The collar like silver necklace by Maria Francesca Pepe that I am wearing today. Maria’s work is incredible. My pink lipstick (think Barbie pink) and all the acid green hair I keep spotting here at New York Fashion Week!

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Meets

Forecasting trends for autumn/winter 2011/12, Mpdclick predicts an energetic blend of inspirations that centre on the growing connection between the countries within Africa and rising superpower China. This issue of MpdInsight focuses on this relationship’s effect on creative inspiration, citing South African Heather Moore’s textile and product designs as a rich source of stimulation. I caught up with Heather to find out a little more about her brand Skinny laMinx and get her thoughts on this burgeoning collaborative trend.

Hi Heather, can you explain a little more about what you do?

I’m a self-taught illustrator turned self-taught surface designer. Over the past four or five years, I’ve been coming up with designs, screenprinting them onto fabric and making them up into homewares like tea towels, cushions and aprons under my label Skinny laMinx. More recently, I’ve begun producing running metres of my fabrics available for home furnishing use. My products and fabrics are available for sale in Cape Town, South

Africa where I live, as well as from my online store, and in stores all over the world who buy wholesale from me.

Do you have any plans to expand internationally?

I sell a lot of things to individuals through my Etsy shop, who come from everywhere, from Alaska to Adelaide. I also sell wholesale to a lot of stores all over the world. There are a number of stores stocking Skinny laMinx in Australia, a couple in the far East, one in Stockholm, and quite a number in the US and in Canada too. My biggest stockist is Heath Ceramics in Sausalito, California. I’m a huge fan of their strong mid-century aesthetic and commitment to running an ethical and innovative family-owned business.

Comparisons have been drawn between your ranges and those of Scandinavian companies Marimekko and Ikea. Is the ‘African-Swedish aesthetic’ label a fair one, do you think?

Hmm, it’s an interesting one. My mom’s best friend is the daughter of Swedish missionaries, and although she also grew up in South Africa, her home is wholly Swedish in style, and I think I soaked this up, possibly as an antidote to the rather culturally bleak South Africanness that was my own heritage.

Most pertinent to the African-Swedish idea is my textile range called Sevilla Rock: For a while I worked on some books with a

“The interest in vintage seems to indicate an interest in the story behind the object, rather than as a marker of status”

Heather Moore

friend who is very knowledgeable about the ancient San Rock paintings in the caves of Sevilla in the Cederberg mountains. Previously I regarded them as part of the dusty, bleak, sunbaked South Africa that I didn’t like being part of as a child.

Now, however, I could see how sensitively observed and executed many of these ancient drawings were; I had the idea of taking them out of their context as archaeological artefacts, and combining them with my enjoyment of clean, simple Scandinavian style, to create a range of contemporary homeware textiles.

I hoped this change of context might perhaps alert other people to the artistry of ancient San artists; someone once said I should call the range “San-dinavian” designs!

The other African-Swedish link is a bit of an amusing one. We don’t have IKEA in South Africa, and as far as I’m concerned, it leaves a huge gap in our homewares market, as there’s no place to buy well-designed, affordable furniture here. Somebody sent me an IKEA catalogue, and after being somewhat overwhelmed by the sheer choice therein, I decided to draw all the things I would buy if we did have IKEA.

I then turned these drawings into a tea towel design called ‘I Wish we had IKEA’. It seemed to strike a chord with people even outside of South Africa, and even ended up on a museum exhibition in Hamburg last year called Phenomen IKEA.

How do you think people’s attitudes towards homeware design has changed over the past few years?

It seems to me that the interest in all things vintage and handmade seems to indicate an interest in the story behind the objects in a home, rather than simply an object’s value as a marker of status, values, aspiration or style. When we visited New York last year, it was amusing and perplexing for me to see Urban Outfitters selling horrible faux vintage flea market tat, and I’m still a bit confused by that. I suppose the people who bought that were investing more in the ‘ironic’ value of their purchase than in the story behind where they found it and why they like it. Is it important for you to imbue your pieces with a sense of your own personality?

Because I’m self-taught and learning a great deal about what I do all the time, and because the popularity of my designs grew at the same time as I was blogging about my work, I find it difficult to imagine making a new design just to fit a style or fashion or a gap in the market. I get so much feedback via my blog and online shop from people who have bought my things and really love them that I feel quite close to my customers, probably because I have similar relationships with designer/makers who I admire.

Although my business is growing quite quickly, I relate best to businesses that express the heartfelt involvement of the person behind it, and I’d like Skinny laMinx to continue to make textiles

that are both well-designed and attractive, as well as full of enthusiasm and story.

The ‘cutout’ element of your work reminds us slightly of origami and the Far East - is the Orient a particular influence on you also?

I’m pretty much in awe of Japan, and would love to visit one day, although I expect to be totally overwhelmed. I think my clean line and simple style and use of flat planes do have a bit of a graphic Asian feel, but it’s possibly just a coincidence of the way I use materials.

The mounting relationship, both creatively and economically, between the countries within the African continent and the rising China provide a key focus for Mpdclick’s trend for AW12/13: ‘Remix’. With South-South expansion of trade business opportunities said to be expected to bring in $2.6 trillion annual revenues by 2020; indicators show this to be a potentially profitable venture, both financially and creatively. What are your thoughts on this idea?

It’s such an interesting idea, and I kind of went ‘oh, duh’ when I read this as a trend you’ve identified. But that’s not because I’ve seen any evidence of it emerging in my environment, but just because it seems so very inevitable sometime in the future.

HEATHER MOORESouth Africa-based Heather’s blog and website, skinnylaminx.com, is one of the industry’s most prolific print resources.

Interview by Sarah Wade, Managing Editor

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PARISParis is officially the world’s most visited city; each year millions of tourists travel to the French capital, widely considered to be the lovers’ capital of the world. The Paris they seek is one of drama, intrigue and romance, yet it is also a global hotspot of art, fashion, cuisine and culture. To coincide with the beginning of Paris Fashion Week we bring you a selection of things to see and do around the city.

Words by James Samuel-Camps

Hotspots

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Hotspots

3_THE DESIGNERPEDRO LOURENCO

The roster at Paris Fashion Week reads like a who’s-who of international fashion; with the likes of Balmain, Christian Dior, Givenchy and Yves Saint Laurent exhibiting, it can be somewhat daunting to join the line-up as a newcomer. Luckily, Pedro Lourenço has managed to pass the test with his last two collections. The 19-year-old Brazilian focuses heavily on architectural and futuristic interpretations of fashion; his glossy fabrics, clean-cut geometrics and transparencies combine to create a bold, extruded look raved about by critics, cementing his place as one-to-watch. Image: mpdclick.com

4_THE ARCHITECTURECITE DE LA MODE ET DU DESIGN

Designed by Dominique Jakob and Brendan MacFarlane, the Cité was inspired by ‘the various flows of the site, the Seine and promenades along the river banks’. In a revamp of the Magasins Généraux, a group of industrial buildings on the Left Bank, much of the original structure has remained, adorned with a long, fluid swathe of digitalised green that now houses the Institut Francais de la Mode as well as various design ateliers, shops, cafes and exhibition spaces. Image: flickr.com_ollografik

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1_THE ACCOMMODATIONHOTEL SEZZ

A stylish boutique hotel with 26 rooms spread across 7 floors. Attention to detail is exquisite - chairs and stools in swept chrome by Driade, beds specially made by Artelano in sumptuous tones of burgundy and chocolate brown and a myriad of gadgets all add up to a ‘bachelor pad’ experience at Sezz. Design comes courtesy of Christophe Pillet; once a protégé of Philippe Starck, Pillet’s aesthetic leaves Sezz with a subtly masculine feel. Image: komingup.com

2_THE STORECOLETTE

Virtually a Parisian institution, Colette is a must visit for fashionistas, no excuses. Adorning the shelves, you will find high-end brands such as Comme des Garcons, Moncler and Lanvin alongside premium streetwear brands, as well as lifestyle items such as albums, cameras, books and even art supplies. Add in a restaurant with a continually-changing menu that stocks over 100 kinds of water and it becomes clear that Colette is a tourist destination in itself that is perfect for hipper-than-thou consumers. Image: limitedhype.com

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Hotspots

5_THE DISTRICTMONTMARTRE

Montmartre is the name of a hill in the north of the city that gives its name to the surrounding district. As well as having the Sacré-Coeur basilica atop its summit, Montmartre is host to numerous nightspots, concert halls and music stores; in the 19th Century it was outside the city limits and free of taxes, making it a popular area for nightlife. Two of the more famous examples of entertainment venues are Moulin Rouge and Le Chat Noir, popular cabarets of the time who could count classic artists Vincent van Gogh, Henri de Toulouse-Latrec and Pierre-Auguste Renoir among their patrons. Nowadays, the area maintains that typical bohemian feel and is an ideal place to go to be inspired. Image: flickr.com_bruxelles5

6_THE EVENTPARIS FASHION WEEK

Paris Fashion Week is one of the most important regular events that occurs in the city. Many of the world’s top designers converge on the capital for 9 days of ready-to-wear shows – this season the show runs from 1-9 March in some of the city’s most venerable settings. From Chanel in the Grand Palais (Tuesday 8 March) to Lanvin in the Jardin du Tuileries (Friday 4 March) Paris Fashion Week is, to many, the highlight of the Big Four and as it closes the fashion season, is arguably the most anticipated. Image: mpdclick.com

7_THE MUSEUMPALAIS DE TOKYO

This museum of modern & contemporary art is located near the Trocadéro in the 16th arrondissement. In the eastern wing lies the Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris, while the Palais de Tokyo resides in the western wing. The museum also publishes a magazine, Palais, three times a year, centred on a specific artistic theme. In 2011 the museum is undergoing a renovation, due for a general re-opening in spring 2012; in the meantime, the museum is making use of new spaces around the premises. Image: paris-pictures.net

8_THE BLOGEASY FASHION PARIS

This 3-year-old street fashion blog is the brainchild of Fred Vielcanet, a Paris-based photographer normally frequenting the Les Halles and Le Marais districts, looking for stylish individuals to photograph. the site not only shows Fred’s keen eye for a stylish outfit, but does so with some truly gorgeous photography. To so many, words like composition, depth of field and lighting mean nothing, but Easy Fashion’s photos are so sharp and clean you could cut your finger on one. In Fred’s words: “the Parisian’s girl style is, for me, a perpetual and never ending quest. Paris is like all bright-lights big cities; very eclectic in styles with all kind of interesting looks, although not always successful.” Images: easyfashion.blogspot.com

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COMMITTED TO COLOURSouth Korea is increasingly regarded as a central focus for design and innovation. Mpdclick highlights its most exciting exports, from photographers and emerging fine artists to the latest lifestyle enhancing technology soon to be inspiring our own design aesthetic.

Words by Heather Tuck

OnesToWatch

First, we look at a creative duo that caught our attention through a wealth of coverage among influential design blogs such as Trendland and Beautiful Decay. Producing fashion editorials, advertisements as well as artwork, Mi-Zo, aka photographer Zoren Gold and graphic artist Minori Murakami revel in a palette of synthetic blends including vibrant turquoise, magenta tones and iced metallics that instantly catch the eye.

The bold lines of composition, proportion play and texture give their work a hi-tech overtone, a key factor aligning Mi-Zo with Mpdclick’s Synthesise trend. One particular piece of artwork uses layered segments of a photograph to play with transparencies, detail and gradient, while illustrated graphic overlay upon many pieces of their work show further dimensions this trend can take, juxtaposing sleek hi-tech aesthetics with a fun, playful edge for an endless source of garment and homeware design inspiration.

The current ‘4482’ exhibition at the Bargehouse in London has driven our focus to two South Korean fine artists; Hyesoo You and Kyungsoo Byun. You, whose work reflects a soft, K-Pop

enthusiasm, presents a series of sculptures entitled ‘Future of the Past’. One notable piece combines the structure of Korea’s architectural heritage in bold sharp lines with softer, contemporary and multi-coloured airbrushed sections that represent the nation’s flourishing creativity and sub-cultures. Byun, whose resumé is drenched in the classic K-Pop aesthetic and colour palette, takes everyday objects such as motorbikes, cars and wineglasses and saturates them in high octane hues, outlined with a sense of hi-tech motion. This motion depicts the continuing developments of technology within his homeland while the bold colours pay homage to the vibrant pop culture of the country.

Emerging technologies from South Korea are already revolutionising security around the world. Surveillance robots are the latest innovation to receive critical acclaim; already up and running in a crude oil storage facility in Korea, a robot developed under the New Growth Engine Smart Project incorporates CCTV, voice recognition and alarms within one single machine. This security innovation pushes a concept first developed in autumn/winter 11/12’s Primal trend, holding survival and protection as

OPPOSITE: SHOT FROM A MI-ZO PHOTOSHOOT THAT REALLY DISPLAYS THEIR COMMITMENT TO COLOUR. ABOVE: KYUNGSUN BYUN; MI-ZO

“The composition, proportion play and texture that give Mi-Zo’s work a hi-tech overtone is a key factor aligning them with Mpdclick’s Synthesise trend”

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“One notable piece combines the structure of Korea’s architectural heritage in bold sharp lines with softer, contemporary and multi-coloured airbrushed sections”

ABOVE: HYESOO YOU; HYUNGSUN BYUNOPPOSITE: IMAGES BY MI-ZO

a key visual in future trends. A robotic theme becomes apparent with precise cut layers, bindings wrapping around the body’s core, quilting and wire emulated fastenings and decoration.

Mpdclick cite Mi-Zo as a versatile source of inspiration as they continue to push their signature aesthetic using the latest digital advancements demonstrating the highest realms of creativity through 2D visuals, while the possibilities in 3D are unlimited.

Hyesoo You exemplifies how to combine heritage and contemporary culture while Kyungsoo Byun shows narrative through the simple technique of motion and colour. The exciting developments of robotic technology reinforce South Korea’s position as the benchmark for innovation; Mpdclick cite this advanced region as an oasis of emerging creativity of which we shall be tracking.

OnesToWatch

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“Many of the designs are taken from ancient Islamic architecture; minarets, domes of mosques, palaces, shrines”

Monir Sharhoudy Farmanfarmaian

OPPOSITE: GONÇALO MABUNDA, ‘THE HOPE THRONE’ (2008)THIS PAGE: A FENDI CUSHION THAT PERFECTLY ILLUSTRATES THE EMERGING STYLE; CLOSEUPS TRULY REVEAL HOW INTRICATE THESE WORKS ARE

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KALEIDOSCOPE: MIDDLE EASTERN DESIGNThe beautiful intricacy of Middle Eastern tile work is fast becoming an increasingly popular means of fascination and inspiration within the fashion and design world, and as interest in the Middle East continues to grow, the inventive use of geometrics is sure to follow suit, becoming key inspiration for fashion and homewares. Mpdclick looks to key artists currently influenced by Middle Eastern-infused geometrics and consider how these awe-inspiring patterns will evolve and influence in the coming seasons.

Words by Kiah Tulloch

The beautiful intricacy of Middle Eastern tile work is fast becoming a major source of fascination and inspiration for the creative industries. These elaborate kaleidoscopes of geometric patterns exude the exoticism of the region, conveying their interwoven history with the cultural traditions of the countries in which they have flourished. Renowned fashion designers have used such visuals as inspiration for graphics, embellishments and silhouettes, while in home & interiors, the patterns have inspired intricate laser-cut details and striking prints.

As interest in the Middle East continues to grow – especially in light of recent protests in the region – the inventive use of geometrics is sure to escalate. Mpdclick looks to key artists who are currently influenced by Middle Eastern-infused geometrics and consider how these awe-inspiring patterns will evolve and influence in the coming seasons. With talent that speaks for itself and a prestigious career spanning more than five decades, it isn’t difficult to understand why Monir Sharhoudy Farmanfarmaian is regarded as one of Iran’s most inspiring artists; her work has already become a means of inspiration for the fashion world.

For their spring/summer 10 womenswear collection, London label Qasimi was influenced by Farmanfarmaian’s mosaics, integrating bold geometry into the collection in the form of striking mirror embellishment and strong angular shapes in rich gold and sumptuous colours reminiscent of her work. The 87-year-old artist’s work conveys a deep-rooted connection with her home country and a great interest in the history of Iranian reverse glass through her cut-glass mosaics. Drawing on a number of other Middle Eastern elements including Muslim mosques and Persian art, Farmanfarmaian creates remarkable mirror mosaics, often accented with the traditional blue and green of Islamic tile work.

“I’ve done a lot of travelling, particularly in the Islamic world,” she says. “Many of the designs are taken from ancient architecture in Cairo, Damascus, Tehran - minarets, domes of mosques, palaces, shrines. And I did a lot of travelling inside Iran, studying the architecture at Isfahan, Shiraz and Tabriz. The Shah Cheraq shrine in Tabriz and the palace of Golestan were major influences.” Monir Shahroudy Farmanfarmaian’s distinct approach to fusing traditional Iranian craft and Islamic patterns is stylistically

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“For their S/S 10 womenswear collection, Qasimi integrated bold geometry, striking mirror embellishment and strong angular shapes”

ABOVE: ALL IMAGES FROM QASIMI, SS10OPPOSITE: CLOCKWISE FROM TOP - MONIR SHARHOUDY FARMANFARMAIAN; ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH, A/W 10/11; SPIRAL DESIGNS BY ZARAH HUSSAIN

Focus

exceptional; she is the only contemporary artist to explore mirrored mosaics, geometric patterns and the union of traditional and contemporary in such a unique way.

From January 27th 2011 to March 3rd 2011, The Third Line* art gallery in Dubai is playing host to ‘Kaleidoscope’, an exhibition of some of Farmanfarmaian’s most recent mirror mosaics. The exhibition explores her ornate works as well as her recent elevation of interaction resulting in mosaics that ‘can be physically arranged in multiple variations’, according to The Third Line.

Much like Farmanfarmaiain, Middle Eastern artists Zarah Hussain and Halima Cassell also draw their inspiration from traditional Islamic geometric patterns. Hussain’s canvas paintings and animations are influenced by the intense beauty of geometry. Her delicately painted oils and watercolours are a contemporary representation of this ancient and sacred form of artistic expression. Her ‘Submission’ projection – recently shown at the Breathing Space exhibition at the Turnpike Gallery in Leigh, U.K. – is a contemporary take on the Islamic design rule of infinite

shape and pattern repetition, adding dimension with ongoing movement, shifting position as well as morphing in and out of each other. Halima Cassell works in clay, stone and wood, producing strong geometric sculptures influenced by recurrent Middle Eastern patterns and a passion for architectural geometry. She fuses her Middle Eastern heritage with her upbringing in the United Kingdom as well as her interest in African pattern work.

From the skillful mirror work of Farmanfarmaian to the paintings, installations and sculptures of Hussain and Cassell, Middle Eastern geometrics are saturating the contemporary creative landscape. The fusion of traditional Middle Eastern design, an avant-garde edge and influences from other cultures takes this burgeoning geometrics trend to another level and provides crucial inspiration for a wide range of products for coming seasons.

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for mass fashion consumption offering Goddess-like layers and fluid drapes and folds with an ultra-modern tribal edge.

Diaphanous semi-sheer kaftans and voluminous a-line maxi dresses boast abstract tribal designs and magical feather and dream-catcher motifs along with radial and geometric prints evocative of pagan symbolism. Deep hoods, braided belts and heavy gold plate jewellery enhance a ‘high-priestess’ identity offering a juxtaposition of strength and heavenly beauty.

Further pushing a ‘celestial goddess’ aesthetic is the exclusive 2011 Pirelli calendar ‘Mythology’ shot by fashion heavyweight Karl Lagerfeld. The publication’s striking black and white semi-nude shots feature a host of a-list actresses and top models posing as Gods, heroes and mythological characters. Amongst the most poignant shots is an image of Italian beauty, model Elisa Sednaoui as Flora the Goddess of flowers and the season of spring. The mythical pagan idol stands as a perfect ambassador for the trend sporting blossoming flora and fauna garlands and gauzy maxi-length robes.

As the autumn collections hit the stores expect a tirade of Goddess and Earth mother looks to provide the heavily layered season with a refreshing feminine identity. Billowing tunics and kaftans in spun-gold, raspberry and stratosphere blue come adorned with mesmerising radial patterns and should be styled with sweeping full length skirts’ boasting sheer layers or soft pleats. Demi-capes and kimono jackets in bronze and gold devorè ensure a classical touch while daisy chain headbands and raw stone jewellery provide a contemporary finish and highlight the trend’s natural roots.

Mother immortal or fearless warrior, fashion’s celebration of the archetypal woman has adopted many guises. In January 2010 Mpdclick’s autumn/winter 11/12 fashion forecast considered the dawn of a new consumer age, where reality would be faced and the consequences of fast fashion realised, resulting in a deep affinity with the natural world.

Words & Styling by Jen Cox

As the trend starts to take shape, the predicted rejection of frivolity and mass consumption begins to occur and aesthetically the trend adopts a celestial slant as fashion forward females embody the divine spirit of Gaia, the Goddess of Earth and nature.

Our initial trend research highlighted an emanating magnetism to pagan ideals as the need for environmental change began to escalate. To accompany this pantheist mind-set entered a dreamy bohemian look characterised by androgynous maxi lengths, fluid draped fabrics and a jubilant festival colour palette. As the autumn/winter season draws closer the trend is set against a mystical terrain and the female identity evolves from that of nature’s boho disciple to Earth’s mythical goddess.

American designer Mara Hoffman’s latest collection showcased at February’s New York Fashion Week tunes in to this empyrean mood. The ethereal range was inspired by her husband and muse, artist Javier Pinon whose recent exhibition ‘O Babalon’ explored ideas of ‘Goddess worship and nature centred spiritualism’. Through collage, Pinon creates obscure idealised landscapes, lush mythological environments for his ‘mystical cult of Earth mothers’ to reside. Hoffman’s autumn/winter 11/12 collection redresses her husband’s Earth mothers

PENDANT FROM MAX & CHLOE. PRINTED SHAWL FROM ALEXANDER MCQUEEN. VEST FROM J CREW. PRINT TOP FROM TIBI. MAXI SKIRT FROM TOPSHOP. HEADBAND FROM TOPSHOP. SOCKS FROM FOREVER 21. SHOES FROM CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN. RING FROM MAX & CHLOE. SCARF FROM ALL SAINTS.

SPIRITWARRIOR

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LONDON FASHION WEEK: BEHIND THE SCENESHere we present a selection of behind-the-scenes images from the Bryce Aime, Charlie le Mindu, Georgina Hardinge, Hasan Hejazi and Topshop shows we attended during London Fashion Week.

Photographs by Sarah Wade, Managing Editor

Bryce Aime

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Hasan Hejazi

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A / W 11/12 FASHION WEEKS:

BEST OF STREET FASHION

Every week MPDClick brings you the very best street fashion images from around the world. With the current season almost at a close,

we are proud to present this street style retrospective, featuring our favourite styles from the three main fashion weeks so far - London,

New York and Milan.

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THIS SEASON’S KEY LOOKS

Our Runway area provides unrivalled analysis of all the top looks to be found on the world’s runways each season. Here, we present just a taste of the must-have styles that we have seen at London, New

York and Milan’s A/W 11/12 Fashion Weeks.

LONDON: EXCEPTIONAL OUTERWEAR

SEEN AT: BURBERRY

MILAN: PAINTED HUES

SEEN AT: FENDI

NEW YORK: CRAFTED KUDOS

SEEN AT: PROENZA SCHOULER

For more information please visit www.mpdclick.com or contact your nearest agent

Mpdclick’s Trends area provides in-depth analysis of real-time and emerging fashion, product and lifestyle trends. Our essential trend forecast for the fashion and home & interiors markets feature the latest colours, textile & graphic inspirations and garment & accessory range plans.

The Colour area is an essential start to the season, providing key colour information from leading organisations and respected trade fairs. Inspirational colour palettes, all with Pantone® references, and galleries of images are available for fashion, homewares and sports markets as early as two years in advance.

Mpdclick’s Trade Fair area keeps you up-to-date with our extensive coverage of the most important international trade shows and exhibitions; providing comprehensive coverage and interpretation from a diverse range of fashion, sportswear, fabric, design and lifestyle shows, and insightful seasonal trade fair trend overviews.

The Retail area provides a look into buying trends from cities across the world at a shop-floor level; providing extensive photo reports and trend analysis of garments and accessories in addition to specialised reports for sportswear, intimates, home & interiors, seasonal ranges and visual merchandising.

The Runway area provides thousands of images each season from the best international shows; including New York, London, Milan, Paris, Sao Paulo, Sydney and Tokyo. Our comprehensive Runway trend overviews offer insightful analysis of the key shapes, details and themes from all the major ready-to-wear fashion weeks.

Keep up-to-date with an ever expanding collection of fully vectorised and editable inspirational graphics, prints, trend related garment shapes and clip art covering all ages and genders available for download in CDR, EPS and AI formats.

The Business area provides authoritative and valuable intelligence on consumer behaviours, business trends, financial insights and apparel sourcing developments, covering both influential and emerging economies from across the globe. Our News area is an essential tool to keep professionals on the pulse of the fashion industry.

Our comprehensive fabric reports provide you with the latest in textile and surface design, from the world’s leading textile shows. With fabric shows a season ahead of the fashion sector, our PANTONE® colour referenced reports are an essential tool for designing future collections.

Mpdclick’s in-depth coverage of the premier design, homewares and interiors shows across the globe will keep you up-to-date with cutting edge designs of the future. Mpdclick provides valuable insight into everything from innovative product to colour, textile and print developments in addition to extensive architecture trend reviews.

trends

colour

trade fair

retail

runway

graphics

business intelligence & news

fabric

home & interiors

Korea - International Textile Design Co Ltd www.itdco.come: itdco@korea.com t: +82 2-562-1250

Mexico - Moda Información S.A. de C.V.e: modeinformation@gmail.com t: +52 55 5280-5970

Netherlands - Appletizer Forecast, Colour and Information Centrewww.appletizer.nle: info@appletizer.nl t: +31 20 530 5380

Poland - Moda I Wiedza www.modaiwiedza.com.pl e: moda@modaiwiedza.com.pl t: +48-22-7294156

Portugal - Fatima Leite e: fatimaleite@netc.ptt: +351 22 996 1499

Russia - Troyka Press Ltd e: troyka-press@mtu-net.rut: +7 495 6891313

Singapore - Leng Peng Asia Pte Ltdwww.lengpeng.come: info@lengpeng.comt: +65 6746 2057

South Africa - Mudpie South Africae: kendall.hatfield@mudpie.co.ukt: +27(0) 72 427 1161

Spain - G.V. Lines Espacio de Tendencias e: gv-lines2g@telefonica.net t: +34 93 2651491

Sweden - Colourhouse ABwww.colourhouse.se e: info@colourhouse.se t: +46 31 124456

Taiwan - Linktrends International Inc e: cynthialin@linktrends.com.twt: +886 2 25585100

Thailand - Mode Publicity Asia Co. Ltd.mode...information Thailande: modethailand@gmail.com t: +66 2 651 4501

Turkey - Ahu Barut - Neva Tekstil e: ahuilbuldu@superonline.comt: +90 542 232 06 33

UK - Mudpie Ltdwww.mudpie.co.uke: sales@mudpie.co.ukt: +44 (0)1794 344048

USA - East Coast OPR Incwww.oprny.com e: sales@oprny.comt: +1 212 564 3954

USA - West CoastThe Fashion Book Storewww.thefashionbookstore.comt: +1 213 622 5663

distributors For distribution or more information on any of Mudpie’s products please contact your nearest agent, or alternatively, email Mudpie enquire@mudpie.co.uk or call +44 1794 344040

Argentina - International Textile Consultants www.textileconsultants.com.are: info@textileconsultants.com.art: +54 11 4704-6618

Australia - Ginger Trend Consulting(New Zealand)www.gingertc.com.aue: info@gingertc.com.au t: +61 412841 105

Belgium - mode...information Belgium bvbawww.modeinfo.bee: info@modeinfo.bet: +32 9 2244387

Brazil - Guelfi Representacoes Ltdae: guelfirevistas@uol.com.brt: +55 11 2909 2348

Canada - Info-Marque e: info@letrendsource.comt: +1 514 731 1011

China - China Textile Information Centrewww.cncs-pantone.com.cne: wangting@ctic.org.cnt: +86 10 64 168245 / +86 10 852291007

China - Guangzhou ChinaTex Info Servicee: wenpeihui@51pantone.comt: +86 20 38852337

China - Sixty Four S.r.le: nicola@sixtyfour.itt: +39 0587 466150

China - Fashion Consultant Ltd www.fchk.come: service@fchk.comt: +852 2576 1737

China - Creative Trends Servicese: michael.leow@creativetrends.com.hkt: +852 9378 5869

China - Je Corporate Shanghaie: webmaster@iecorporate.comt: +21 65433207 / +21 55067263

Colombia - Jairo Abril Y Cia Ltda(Bolivia, Ecuador, Panama, Peru & Venezuela) www.jairoabril.come: abrilimport@jairoabril.comt: +571 6120149

Denmark - pej gruppen ApS(Norway)www.pejgruppen.dke: forlag@pejgruppen.dkt: +45 97 118900

Finland - Oy Urban View Ltdmode... information Finland www.urbanview.nete: info@urbanview.nett: +358 400 242 079

France - mode...information S.A.S.www.modeinfo.come: librairie@modeinfo.comt: +33 1 40 138150

Germany - mode...information GmbH(Austria & Switzerland)www.modeinfo.come: sales@modeinfo.comt: +49 2206 6007 770

Greece - Manos Komninos EE(Cyprus)Interfashion Express e: m.komninos@ifashionexpress.grt: +30 210 3639443

India - The Bombay Subscription Agencywww.bsatrends.co.ine: rajesh@saremals.comt: +91 22 2381 9640

Italy - Campaniaideedaprodurrewww.ideedaprodurre.come: info@ideedaprodurre.comt: +39 081 3952823

Italy - Emilia RomagnaEliotecnica Stermieri srl www.eliotecnicastermieri.come: info@eliotecnicastermieri.comt: +39 059 691468

Italy - LombardiaMede S.r.l e: info@medesrl.itt: +39 049 9801451

Italy - LazioE’stile s.r.lwww.estileroma.ite: info@estileroma.itt: +39 06 8555337

Italy - MarchePaola Tidei S.r.l.e: p.tidei@tiscali.itt: +39 0733 817514

Italy - PugliaFashion Roomwww.fashionroom.ite: infotoscana@fashionroom.itt: +39 55 213270

Italy - Toscana - FirenzeFashion Roomwww.fashionroom.ite: infotoscana@fashionroom.itt: +39 055 213270

Italy - Toscana - PratoView on Trends S.r.l. www.viewontrends.ite: info@viewontrends.itt: +39 0574 623112

Italy - VenetoMede S.r.l. e: info@medesrl.itt: +39 049 9801451

Israel - Mudpie Israele: liat.mudpie@gmail.comt: +972544358002

Japan - Taiyo Trading Co Ltd www.next-eye.nete: infopro@next-eye.net t: +81 3 3406 7221 Mudpie branded sales office

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