SAREES OF MADHYA PRADESH

By :Aditi GoyalPreeti Roy

MAHESHWARI SAREES

MAHESHWARI SAREES

The saree was started by Ahilya Bai Holkar.These sarees were woven in pure cotton with pure zari border and some resham in borderThe colors of these sarees were dark and contrasting such as magenta, deep red and pink.The borders were as typical ‘Rui Phool’ design in white color and ‘Muthda’ in golden and silver zari.Once patronised by the royal house of the region , the magnificent Maheshwari was worn by the queens and the princesses along with Tussar and Chanderi sarees.

RAW MATERIALS:

Raw materials used are the yarns such as cotton,silk,art silk and golden and silver thread.

These yarns are also called resham and zari.

LOOMS USED: Fly shuttle looms are used for

making simple dress material. Throw shuttle looms are used for

making Pallu or Buti designs.

STEPS INVOLVED IN MAKING MAHESHWARI SAREES:

PREPARATION OF YARNS: winding,warping,denting,drawing

WEAVING: shedding,picking,beating are done on handlooms.

BORDER WEAVING PALLU WEAVING: Talla technique

is used to make pallu and butis. PROCESSING:

bleaching,dyeing,embroidery. FINISHING: Folding and pressing

known as ‘Ghadi’ is done.

COLOUR AND DESIGN MOTIFS The language of the Maheshwari sari

evokes images of serene fruitful nature.

The hues and shades of the fabric are referred to in the vernacular as Angoori (grape green),Dalimbi (deep pink), Gul Bakhshi (magenta), Rani (deep mauve pink), Kaasni (light violet), Jaamla (purple), Dhaani (green), Chintamani (peacock blue), Aamrak (golden), Tapkeeree (deep brown).

Motifs like Guldasta, Aambuta, Ghunggroo, Chatai kinar, Bel phool, Jai phool, Hansa, Mayur, Baila Ankhi, Ambi Buti and Chandtara are made.

PRICE

An original Maheswari saree can cost anywhere between Rs. 1500 to Rs. 5000

CHANDERI SAREES

CHANDERI SAREES

The Chanderi saree from Madhya Pradesh is light and meant for Indian summers. It is made in silk or fine cotton with patterns taken from the Chanderi temples. 

Chanderi sarees are the traditional Indian saree and since decades the sarees have been remainin in practice of the weaver.

Chanderi in MP is the most famous center of creating chanderi sarees.

Chanderi is also famous for weaving and extremely fine zari band (patti) right up to the selvedge edge, known as Piping kinar.

RAW MATERIALS

Chanderi weaves today are produced using three raw materials: cotton, silk thread, and zari, or gold thread. None of there materials are available locally, and need to be imported from other Indian states, as well as from China, Japan, and Korea. 

DESIGN AND MOTIFS Great attention is paid to the Buti or

Motif in the body which enriches the design vocabulary.

 Motifs are inspired by nature and by the stunning temples of Chanderi town, Madhya Pradesh, where this weaving style is practiced.

Chanderi motifs are usually drawn from the earth and sky. Swans (hamsa), gold coins (asharfi), trees, fruits, flowers and heavenly bodies, all found their way into the idiom of motifs in Chanderi.

Meenakari or inlay in the Motif and the Addedar Patela in which the band is woven to jewelled cut-work effect are latest additions.

Kalgi is another typical Chanderi Motif that runs along the edge of the border. The use of the fine echoing lines called Baccha is also a Chanderi characteristic.

COLOURS

Mostly pastel colors are used. The Chanderi colours always show

a preference for harmony between the borders and the body of the sarees.

However, there are some typical contrasting combinations like black against red and Ganga - Jamuna sarees, with green on one border and red or Kumkum on the other with a natural offwhite body.

PRICE

Sarees are available at a price range of INR 350 to INR 20,000+. Costly sarees spot real “jaree” work (original gold / silver woven border)