moscow 6 - contents (chapter) - lonely...
TRANSCRIPT
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Moscow
THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY
Mara Vorhees,Leonid Ragozin
Plan Your Trip 1
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Moscow .......4
Moscow’s Top 10 .............6
What’s New ....................13
Need to Know ................14
First Time Moscow ........16
Getting Around ..............18
Top Itineraries .............. 20
If You Like… ................... 22
Month by Month ........... 24
With Kids ....................... 26
For Free ......................... 28
Visas ...............................30
Guided Tours .................32
Travelling to St Petersburg .....................34
Museums & Galleries ....................... 35Tour of the Metro ....... 37Eating ........................... 41Drinking & Nightlife .......................45Entertainment ............48Shopping ...................... 52
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Moscow 185
Survival Guide 227
Moscow Maps 253
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Moscow 54
Transport .................... 228
Directory A–Z ..............232
Language .....................237
Index ............................ 246
Moscow Today .............186
History ..........................188
Performing Arts ......... 206
Art & Architecture ....... 212
Literature & Cinema ... 221
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ................... 56Kremlin & Kitay Gorod ................... 58
Tverskoy & Novoslobodsky ............. 85
Presnya ....................... 100
Arbat & Khamovniki .................. 112
Zamoskvorechie ......... 131
Meshchansky & Basmanny ....................146
Day Trips from Moscow ............ 158
Sleeping ......................174
STE
PAN
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©
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TIM
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Meshchansky& Basmanny
p146
Zamoskvorechiep131
Kremlin& Kitay
Gorod p58
Tverskoy &Novoslobodsky
p85
Arbat &Khamovniki
p112
Presnyap100
Left: Russian man
Above: Moscow skyline
Right: Georgian khachapuri pastry (p43)
Top Itineraries
Day OneKremlin & Kitay Gorod (p58)
M Arrive at the Kremlin ticket office at 9.30am sharp to reserve your time to
enter the Armoury. Dedicate your morning to inspecting the ancient icons and gawking at the gold and gems in the Kremlin. After-wards, stroll through Alexander Garden and catch the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. Exiting Alexander Garden, jump right into the queue on Red Square for Lenin’s Tomb before it closes at 1pm.
Kremlin & Kitay Gorod (p58)
R Linger over lunch as long as you like, ogling the Kremlin spires and St
Basil’s domes. If you wish to see the interior of the cathedral, you can do so after lunch. Otherwise, stroll through Kitay Gorod, discovering the countless 17th-century churches.
Tverskoy (p85)
N Get tickets in advance to see a show at the world-famous Bolshoi Thea-
tre. Afterwards, enjoy a late evening drink at 3205 in Hermitage Garden.
Day TwoKhamovniki (p112)
M A beautiful 17th-century bell tower is the beacon that will guide you to
the historic fortress of Novodevichy Con-vent, which contains nearly five centuries of history. After admiring the art and archi-tecture, head next door to the eponymous cemetery, where many famous political and cultural figures are laid to rest.
Arbat (p112)
R Make your way into the Arbat district for an afternoon of art appreciation.
Peruse the collections of the world-famous Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts, or investi-gate one of the smaller niche galleries, such as whimsical Burganov House or the pro-vocative Multimedia Art Museum.
Arbat (p112)
N After dinner you can stroll along Moscow’s most famous street – the
Arbat – enjoying the talents of buskers and the atmosphere of old Moscow. If you prefer a more formal setting for your entertain-ment, catch a concert at Rhythm Blues Cafe.
Dinner Dine at a restaurant on ul Petrovka, such as Lavka-Lavka (p94).
Lunch Have lunch at Bosco Cafe (p81) or Stolovaya 57 (p81).
Dinner Sample scrumptious Georgian cuisine at Elardzhi (p127).
Lunch Indulge in a traditional lunch at Golubka (p127) or Stolle (p128).
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd20
Day ThreeZamoskvorechie (p131)
M Get an early start to beat the crowds to the Tretyakov Gallery.
Take your time inspecting the icons, ex-amining the Peredvizhniki, marvelling at the Russian Revival and ogling the avant-garde.
Zamoskvorechie (p131)
R After lunch, stroll along the Krym-skaya naberezhnaya, where you
can frolic in fountains and explore the outdoor art gallery at Art Muzeon. Then head across the street to Gorky Park for an afternoon of bicycle riding or boat pad-dling. Stay into the evening for outdoor
cinema, sundowners, and drinking and dancing under the stars.
Zamoskvorechie (p131)
N It’s easy to wile away a summer evening in Gorky Park. But if you’re
up for something more, the former Red October factory is now the city’s hottest nightlife spot, jam-packed with eating, drinking and entertainment venues. Let yourself wander, stopping here for dessert, there for drinks, and somewhere else for dancing. Explore the galleries. Rock the bar scene. Have fun.
Day FourIzmailovo (p150)
M Reserve the morning for shop-ping at the Izmaylovsky Market,
crammed with souvenir stalls selling everything from silver samovars to Soviet propaganda posters to modern pop-culture matryoshki.
Basmanny (p146)
R On your way back to the centre, make a stop at Flakon or Winza-
vod Center for Contemporary Art and nearby ArtPlay to see what’s happening in Moscow’s former industrial spaces. These contemporary art centres now undertake a different kind of production – art, fashion
and design – where you can continue your souvenir shopping.
Presnya (p100)
N Dinner at the Café Pushkin is a multicourse medley of old-
fashioned Russian cuisine (accompanied by plenty of vodka shots). If you’re still standing afterwards, head to Jagger (p110) or Manon Club (p110) for sunset drinks and dancing the night away.
Dinner Dine at a summer cafe, such as AC/DC in Tbilisi (p140).
Lunch Grab lunch at Produkty (p140) or Mizandari (p140) at Red October.
Dinner Reserve your table for an haute-russe feast at Café Pushkin (p107).
Lunch Izmaylovsky market is famous for the grilled shashlyk (kebabs).
DA
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Tomb of the Unknown Soldier (p74)
21PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
OP
ITIn
ER
AR
IES
Walking Tour detourWalking Tour
Path/Walking Trail
BankEmbassy/ConsulateHospital/MedicalInternetPolicePost OfficeTelephoneToiletTourist InformationOther Information
AirportBorder crossingBus
CyclingFerry
U-Bahn/Underground station
MonorailParking
Metro station
Petrol stationS-Bahn/Subway stationTaxi
Train station/RailwayTram
Other Transport
LighthouseHut/ShelterBeach
LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall
River, CreekIntermittent River
Swamp/Mangrove
Reef
Canal
Water
Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake
Glacier
Beach/Desert
Airport/Runway
Cemetery (Christian)
Cemetery (Other)
Park/Forest
Mudflat
Sportsground
Sight (Building)
International
DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall
Capital (National)Capital (State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village
State/Province
LaneTertiary
TollwayFreewayPrimary
StepsPlaza/Mall
Pedestrian overpass
Secondary
Unsealed roadRoad under construction
Tunnel
Cable car/Funicular
BeachBird SanctuaryBuddhistCastle/PalaceChristianConfucianHinduIslamicJainJewishMonumentMuseum/Gallery/Historic BuildingRuinSento Hot Baths/OnsenShintoSikhTaoistWinery/VineyardZoo/Wildlife SanctuaryOther Sight
DivingBodysurfing
Sleeping
Eating
Entertainment
Shopping
Drinking & NightlifeCafe
Camping
Canoeing/KayakingCourse/TourSkiingSnorkellingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity
Tube station
Information Routes
Boundaries
Hydrography
Areas
Geographic
Population
Transport
Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
T-bane/Tunnelbana station
Moscow Maps
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 253
MAP
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Khamovniki...............................................D2 ý Entertainment (p129) 3 Moscow Museum........................................ D1 13 Luzhniki Stadium........................................ A4 4 Novodevichy Cemetery .............................A3
5 Tolstoy Estate-Museum ............................ C1 þ Shopping (p130) 14 Chapurin Boutique......................................B1 ú Eating (p127)
6 Black Market ...............................................C2 ÿ Sleeping (p180) 7 Golubka ........................................................A2 15 Blues Hotel.................................................. B3 8 Pane & Olio .................................................. D1
9 Stolle.............................................................B2 ï Transport (p230) 16 Krymsky Most Landing..............................D2
262
PRESNYA
PRESNYA Map on p264
æ Top Sights (p105) 27 Cafe Receptor ................F5 58 Sixteen Tons..................B4 1 Moscow Planetarium ... D5 28 Cafe Sindbad................. F6 59 Tchaikovsky Concert Cool Kulinariya .... (see 72) Hall ................................F3 æ Sights (p102) 29 Corner Burger ............... E2
2 Art4.ru ............................G6 30 Correa's..........................D4 þ Shopping (p111) 3 Bulgakov House- 31 Correa's.......................... E3 60 Bolshe............................. F4 Museum ...................... E4 32 Dolkabar......................... E4 61 Chocolate Salon............ E6 4 Central House of 33 Favorite .......................... E5 62 Dom Farfora .................. E2 Writers (CDL) ............. E6 34 Jean-Jacques .................F7 63 Dom Knigi........................F7 5 Chekhov House- 35 Khachapuri ....................G5 64 Mostok............................ E3 Museum ...................... D5 36 Mari Vanna......................F5 65 Trekhgornaya 6 Church of the Grand 37 Nedalny Vostok..............F5 Manufacturing Ascension ....................F6 38 Pavilion........................... E5 Factory Outlet ............ B6 7 Church of the Pushkin 66 Vassa & Co......................F7 Resurrection............... G5 Konditerskaya .. (see 25)
8 Church of the Small 39 Ragout ............................ E2 Ø Sports & Activities (p111) Ascension ...................G6 40 Scandinavia ...................G4 67 Krasnopresnkiye 9 Gogol House ...................F7 41 Shinok............................. A7 Bany.............................B4 10 House of Friendship 42 Soup Cafe ......................D2 68 Patriarshy Dom with Peoples of 43 Stolle............................... E4 Tours ........................... E5 Foreign Countries ...... G7 44 Twenty-Two....................E7
11 Lyubavicheskaya Ugolyok ................ (see 76) ÿ Sleeping (p179) Synagogue...................F5 45 Uilliam's...........................F5 69 Arbat House Hotel ........ F6 12 Moscow Museum of Upside Down Cake 70 Bear Hostel on Modern Art Co....................... (see 29) Arbatskaya...................E7 Tverskoy ......................F6 46 Volkonsky....................... E4 71 Bear Hostel on 13 Moscow Museum of Mayakovskaya............ E4 Modern Art û Drinking & Nightlife (p109) 72 Element Hotel................G6 Yermolaevsky............. E4 47 Art Lebedev Cafe 73 Fresh Hostel Arbat........ F6 14 Moscow Zoo ..................C4 Studio .......................... F6 74 Hotel de Paris ................G4 15 Museum of Oriental Bar Klava.............. (see 60) 75 Marco Polo Presnja........F5 Art .................................F6 Cafe Margarita .... (see 60) 76 Nikitskaya Hotel............G6 16 Narkomfin......................D6 48 Coffee Mania .................G6 77 Peking Hotel ...................F3 17 Patriarch's Ponds ......... E4 49 Conversation ................. F6
18 Ryabushinsky Mansion.F6 50 Jagger............................. A6 ï Information (p232) 19 Tsereteli Studio- 51 Kvartira 44 .....................G6 78 Central Telegraph.........H6 Museum ......................C4 52 Manon Club.................... A7 79 European Medical 20 White House .................. C7 53 Mayak .............................G6 Centre.......................... E5 Radio City..............(see 77) 80 Mongolian Embassy ......E7 ú Eating (p104) 54 Red.................................. D5 81 Netherlands 21 Anderson for Pop.......... C4 55 Ryumochnaya ...............G6 Embassy......................G6 22 As Eat Is...........................F4 Time-Out Bar........(see 77) 82 Ukrainian Embassy....... G5 23 Barashka........................ A6 56 Vintage ........................... E4 83 US Embassy ..................D6 24 Botanika......................... D2
Bulka..................... (see 39) ý Entertainment (p110) ï Transport (p231) 25 Café Pushkin .................G4 57 Moscow Tchaikovsky 84 Hertz............................... E2 26 Cafe Receptor ...............G6 Conservatory..............G6
263
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æ Top Sights (p133) 30 Lebedinoe Ozero ........................................ A7 1 Gorky Park ...................................................B5 31 Progressive Daddy & Daddy's Terrace ... C3 2 Tretyakov Gallery........................................E3 32 Rolling Stone...............................................C3 33 WT4 ..............................................................C3 æ Sights (p137)
3 Art Muzeon & Krymskaya ý Entertainment (p145) Naberezhnaya..........................................C4 34 Moscow International House of Music....H4 4 Bakhrushin Theatre Museum ...................G5 35 Stas Namin Theatre................................... A7 5 Bolotnaya Ploshchad .................................D2 36 Strelka Institute for Architecture, 6 Church of St John the Warrior..................C5 Media & Design........................................ C2 Church of St Nicholas in
Tolmachi ........................................... (see 2) þ Shopping (p145) 7 Church of the Resurrection at Kadashi ...E2 37 Bookhunter ..................................................F3 8 Dom na Naberezhnoy Museum................C2 38 Central House of Artists (TsDKh)............B4 9 Engineer's Building.....................................E3 39 RotFront .......................................................F5 10 Garage Museum of Contemporary Art....B6
11 Lumiere Brothers Photography Ø Sports & Activities (p145) Centre........................................................C3 40 Bersenevskiye Bany................................... C2 12 New Tretyakov Gallery...............................C4 41 Gorky Park Skating Rink............................B6 13 Red October ................................................C2 42 Olive Beach ................................................. A7 43 Oliver Bikes .................................................. F1 ú Eating (p140)
14 AC/DC in Tbilisi...........................................B7 ÿ Sleeping (p183) 15 Chugunny most........................................... F2 44 Alrosa on Kazachy...................................... E4 16 Correa's........................................................E4 45 Hotel Baltschug Kempinski........................E1 17 Grably ........................................................... F3 46 IBIS Bakhrushina........................................G4 18 Marukame.................................................... F3 47 Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya ...............G4 19 Mizandari .....................................................C3 48 Ozerkovskaya Hotel...................................G4 20 Nasha Cheburechnaya ..............................E3 49 Park Inn Sadu..............................................D3 21 Ochen Domashneye Kafe.......................... F2 50 Swissôtel Krasnye Holmy .........................H5 Produkty ............................................ (see 19) 51 Three Penguins............................................F3 22 Sok................................................................E2 52 Warsaw Hotel..............................................C6 23 Starlite Diner ...............................................D2 53 Weekend Inn Apartments ..........................F2
û Drinking & Nightlife (p142) ï Information (p232) Bar Strelka .........................................(see 36) 54 36.6 Zamoskvorechie.................................F3 24 Coffee Bean................................................. F2 55 French Embassy......................................... D5 25 Gipsy.............................................................C3
26 Hub ...............................................................E5 ï Transport (p231) 27 Karlson .........................................................G2 Avis..................................................... (see 56) 28 Kvartira 44...................................................D4 56 Europcar...................................................... D7 29 Le Boule .......................................................B7
268
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271
Mara VorheesCoordinating author, Kremlin & Kitay Gorod, Presnya, Arbat & Khamo-vniki, Day Trips Mara’s first visit to Moscow was in 1990, when the lines inside GUM were dwarfed only by the lines outside Lenin’s Tomb. She witnessed the postcommunist transition from her vantage point in the Urals. During those years in the Wild East, the capital was a frequent destination for ‘recovery trips’ – which often required a recovery afterward. The pen-wielding traveller
has worked on dozens of Lonely Planet titles, including Russia and Trans-Siberian Railway. Her stories about Russia have appeared in magazines and newspapers around the world. Nowadays, she often travels with her worldly twins (who celebrated their 4th birthday in Moscow). Follow their adventures at www.havetwinswilltravel.com.
Leonid RagozinTverskoy & Novoslobodsky, Zamoskvorechie, Meshchansky & Basmanny, Day Trips Leonid studied beach dynamics at the Moscow State University, but for want of decent beaches in Russia he switched to journalism and spent 12 years voyaging through different parts of the BBC, with a break for a four-year stint as a foreign correspondent for Russian Newsweek. Leonid is currently a freelance journalist, largely focusing on the war in Ukraine.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reason-able care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maxi-mum extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use.
Published by Lonely Planet Publications Pty LtdABN 36 005 607 9836th edition – March 2015ISBN 978 1 74220 998 2© Lonely Planet 2015 Photographs © as indicated 201510 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1Printed in ChinaAll rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip.
Our Writers
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.
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