Morocco: 21-28 February 2017 A bird trip report by Bob Swann

This was a spur of the moment trip organised by myself in conjunction with Bill Bailey. Although we wanted some

general birding we were also keen to see two target species that had eluded us in the past: Pied Crow and Kelp Gull.

We booked flights with Ryanair from Stanstead to Agadir. Car hire was arranged through Economy Car rental with

Dollar. We got a good deal with the car, but on return we were asked to go to a nearby service station to get it

cleaned! We booked accommodation for the first two nights, then just found places to stay enroute.

21st February. Arrived Agadir airport early evening and as we collected the car we heard Stone Curlews calling

near the carpark. Eventually, after getting a bit lost, managed to find Hotel Ibis Budget Agadir on the N1 and

checked in.

22nd February. Woke to find it was raining! After breakfast headed east up the Sous valley. Enroute lots of roadside

Collared Dove, Magpie, Spotless Starling, Blackbird, White Wagtail, Common Bulbul, with a few Crested

Lark, Song Thrush, Chaffinch and Serin. Many Barn Swallow and a Common Swift moving north. We

continued up to Tazenakht and turned off on the road to Agdez. Although the rain had eased we could see very dark

ominous clouds just to the south of us. As we approached Talount, just east of Tazenakht we realised that a flash

flood had resulted in the road across the oued being closed. The police indicated it might open within two hours so

we decided to have a lunch stop and just wait. We walked down through some orchards on the west back of the

swollen river. Here we had our first Southern Grey Shrike and in the orchard Hoopoe, a few Black Redstart, two

White-spotted Bluethroat, lots of Chiffchaffs and an early migrant Grasshopper Warbler. After just over an hour

the water level had dropped enough to let us cross the ford.

We continued east through spectacular rocky desert scenery to Agdz, where we had a pair of Trumpeter Finch on

the roadside wires. Then drove SE down Oued Daraa arriving eventually at M’hamid in late afternoon to be met

with a very heavy downpour of rain after our long 550km drive. A quick look round the village revealed little bar

White-crowned Black Wheatears, House Sparrows and House Buntings. Checked in to Hotel Kasbah Sahara

Services conveniently located on the edge of town by the main road. Here we had a nice meal and a beer listening

under a starry sky to distant thunder claps

23rd February. Out just after first light to find it was nice and bright. We stood on a bit of raised ground just next to

the hotel as lots of Brown-necked Raven flew out from a roost down near the palms and headed out over the hotel

towards the desert. Eventually after about an hour I spotted the Pied Crow flying out over the village from the

palms. We walked round the northern outskirts of the village and eventually located the crow on some open ground

just beyond the military base. Unfortunately it was disturbed by a villager and we lost sight of it. Delighted by our

success we walked back to the hotel getting good views of Maghreb Larks en route. After breakfast we walked

back round the northern outskirts of the village and relocated the Pied Crow feeding in open areas beyond the base

where there was a bit of a dump. Got good views and photos.

Pied Crow Maghreb Lark

Delighted with this success we decided to start the long journey back to the coast. As we drove north to Zargora we

had a nice Long-legged Buzzard perched on a hill top next to the road, a pair of Desert Lark and a pair of

Trumpeter Finch. Stopped in Zargora by the bridge over Oued Daraa. Here we had a couple of Moorhen on the

river, a Little Egret, a Common Sandpiper and a Kingfisher. From here we turned west and headed out through a

broad flat valley, bounded by escarpments. To begin with there were some cultivated areas that held Black

Redstart, Stonechat and a Northern Wheatear. Eventually as it became more arid we came across displaying

Hoopoe Lark and our first Desert Wheatear.

55km before Bar Rimal the road intersected a small vegetated dry oued. The habitat looked good so we got out for a

walk to stretch our legs. This small area held quite a few birds: a group of c10 Bar-tailed Larks, with three

Maghreb Larks and some Trumpeter Finch, whilst the scrub held Spectacled Warbler and Sub-alpine Warbler.

Just as we were leaving a pair of Barbary Falcon flew close by chasing each other. Continued on our way and at El

Mhamid had a pair of Barbary Partridge cross the road in front of us and some Laughing Doves in the palms. As

we approached Tissinte, we came across a flock of c30 Red-rumped Swallow. The light was starting to fade so we

decided to stop 9km west of the village by the river, where we spent the night in the car.

24th February. After a reasonable sleep woke at first light. On the river a pair of Little Ringed Plover and three

Little Grebe. We heard sandgrouse, but none came in to drink. Probably due to the recent rains there were lots of

alternative drinking sites. Small groups of Sand Martin, House Martin and a few Common Swift were moving up

the valley and we had six Ruddy Shelduck fly by. We waited till 0900 and resumed our journey east, observing

another Long-legged Buzzard as we entered Tissinte. Drove on to Tata, seeing another Desert Lark and just west

of the town had a Fulvous Babbler in a small patch of acacia by the road.

34km west of Tata stopped at a nice oued with a line of acacia on the north side of the road. The habitat again

looked good and worthy of a walk. In the bushes had a small group of Spanish Sparrow, a Common Redstart,

another Sub-alpine Warbler, but best of all a female Tristram’s Warbler which gave excellent views as it fed on

caterpillars and a berry! Drove on through Akka along a large flat sandy plain, where at 36km to Foum Elhissa we

had a superb adult Lanner perched on a roadside pylon. At Tagmoute we followed a minor road towards

Goulimine. In the barren rocky hills around Fask we came across Thekla Larks by the roadside. Drove round

Goulmine on the new bypass. We had been very impressed by the major road improvements that we had seen on our

journey so far. 70km south of Goulmine in an area of cereal cultivation we had two hunting Marsh Harriers.

Continued south through Tantan, picking up Red-rumped Wheatears enroute and eventually arrived at Akhfenir at

1840 and checked in to the very pleasant and fairly new Hotel Sahara Beach. It had been a very long (and at the end,

tiring) journey – 880km from M’hamid to Akhfenir.

25th February. We were down at the beach just south of Akhfenir by 0830. Lots of roosting gulls, mainly Lesser

Black-backed Gulls, with a few Audouin’s Gulls and Yellow-legged Gulls. Also on beach Sandwich Terns,

Sanderling and Turnstone. Checked the dump on the opposite side of the road, where amongst the Lesser Black-

backed Gulls we picked up a 2nd winter Kelp Gull and then a pair of adult Kelp Gull. We drove close to the loafing

flock and got very good views of the Kelp Gull pair. Often when the other gulls spooked the Kelp Gulls would just

stay on the ground. They acted like a pair and there were occasional bits of what appeared to be courtship behaviour.

Kelp Gull pair Lanner

Delighted by our success we headed south to Khnifiss Lagoon (signposted Lac Naila). The tide was rapidly rising as

we arrived at the car park above the cliff. Waders were being pushed towards high tide roosts: Dunlin, Ringed

Plover, Kentish Plover, Grey Plover, Sanderling, Knot, Bar-tailed Godwit with a few Oystercatcher, Curlew,

Whimbrel, Redshank and a Common Sandpiper. Also out in the lagoon many Great Cormorants (mostly

Moroccan race), Grey Heron, Little Egret, a few Spoonbill and Greater Flamingo. Out on the island were at least

two pairs Great Black-backed Gull, whilst dotted about the lagoon were some Slender-billed Gull, several

Sandwich Tern, two Gull-billed Tern and a Caspian Tern. Raptors comprised two Osprey, a Marsh Harrier and

Common Kestrel. We then checked the scrub above the cliff top. Several Black Wheatear, a Desert Wheatear, a

few Red-rumped Wheatear, a Hoopoe Lark and many Thekla Lark. There were several White Wagtails, an

iberiae Yellow Wagtail, a few Meadow Pipit and at least two Red-throated Pipit.

After lunch headed back to Akhfenir to recheck the gulls. Lots were roosting on the beach, but we could not relocate

the kelp gulls. Offshore there was a large raft of 3000+ Common Scoter, also on the sea many Gannets moving

north and a Great Skua.

26th February. Packed and on our way north by 0800. Stopped at first oued north of Akhfenir. A small flock of

Greater Flamingo on the lagoon, plus a Black-necked Grebe. There was very little on the second oued, but the

most northerly one (before El Ouatia) held many birds. Waders comprised Grey Plover, Sanderling, Dunlin, Bar-

tailed Godwit and at least 3 Greenshank. Several moroccan Great Cormorants, a few Spoonbill and 5 Caspian

Tern.

Continued on through some boring flat featureless desert scenery through Tantan. At 76km south of Goulmine we

stopped in an obviously greener area, which had been cultivated in the past. Walked across it – both sides of the

road. Several Temminck’s Lark, Short-toed Lark, Thekla Lark and a singing Hoopoe Lark. Also a few Tawny

Pipit, Spectacled Warbler and Red-rumped Wheatears. Came across numerous Fat Sand Rats. Next stop was

35km south of Goumine (the Tantan 100km site, though the road marker has disappeared). Another walk out onto

east side of road revealed more Temminck’s and Short-toed Larks and close to the pylon line a fine Thick-billed

Lark.

Temminck’s Lark Thick-billed Lark

Continued north till about 10km south of Goulmine, where a bridge crossed the oued just south of the water

treatment works. Checked out the scrub on east side of road and found at least 3 theresae Scrub Warblers and a

pair of Little Ringed Plover. Then checked out the water treatment works viewing the lagoons from the road. There

were masses of duck – mainly Marbled Duck (we estimated 1,200 many sitting up on the bunds between the

lagoons in dense packs). Also c100 Ruddy Shelduck, c10 Shoveler, a Pintail, a Gadwall and a few Common

Coot. On the edges of the lagoons some Common Sandpipers and 6 Green Sandpipers, whilst overhead we had a

Little Swift. This is a really nice site that is bound to turn up something really good in the future. Continued our

journey north and checked in to Hotel Kaba (room only) in the centre of Tantan.

27th February. An early start and to begin with it was quite foggy. We turned off the main road at the first road sign

for Massa. This infact took us down to Tassila. We parked on the south edge of the village and walked out along the

tracks through the fields. Almost immediately we heard the fluty song of a Black-crowned Tchagra, and got good

views of the bird. We later came across a pair. The field edges also held two White-spotted Bluethroat, several

Mousier’s Redstart, Stonechat, lots of Sardinian Warbler, Chiffchaff, a few Blackcap, lots of Serin with some

Greenfinch and Goldfinch. Out in the fields were a pair of Stone Curlew, many Cattle Egret, calling Common

Quail, lots of Zitting Cisticola, Crested Lark, White Wagtail, a few Yellow Wagtail and Meadow Pipit, Corn

Bunting, Spanish and House Sparrows. Also had a pair of Black-shouldered Kite which were showing a lot of

interest in a large palm tree. In reedier areas we heard Reed Warbler singing and heard and saw some Cetti’s

Warblers. Amongst the bushes we had Laughing Dove, Common Bulbul, Blackbird, a Robin but best was a

Western Olivaceous Warbler in full song. We eventually got down to the oued and walked west. On the river a

few Mallard, 26 Tufted Duck, a few Common Coot and some sinensis Great Cormorant. In the riverside scrub a

pair of Great Tit and flushed a Sparrow Hawk. Over the adjacent fields a single Brown-throated Martin.

Returned to the car and drove west through Massa till we got to the entrance of the national park. We followed the

track towards the mouth. The river was surprisingly birdless. One flock of c60 Glossy Ibis and an Osprey being the

highlights. The carpet of flowers by the track provided more interest and held three Linnet. Returned to the car and

followed the road over towards Sidi Rbat. Enroute a few singing Lesser Short-toed Larks and more Thekla Larks.

Headed back north to Agadir in late afternoon and checked back in to the Hotel Ibis Budget Agadir.

28th February. A late start as once again it was quite foggy. We eventually made our way down to the Sous Estuary.

Out on the mud were the usual variety of waders with hundreds of Ringed Plover and smaller numbers of

Oystercatcher, Redshank, Greenshank, Sanderling, Dunlin, Curlew, Bar-tailed Godwit as well as 20+ Black-

winged Stilts and 30+ Black-tailed Godwit. There were c35 Sandwich Terns, lots of Black-headed Gulls, a

Slender-billed Gull and a couple of Audouin’s Gulls amongst the Lesser Black-backed Gulls. We then tried to

check out the woods by the palace seeing lots of Magpies, Wood Pigeons and our first African Blue Tits before we

were encouraged by the palace guards to move on.

We drove east following the new bypass round Inezgane, seeing 30+ White Stork. The bypass came to an abrupt

end and we then had to navigate our way through a massive street market/ car boot/donkey cart sale. Eventually

emerged on the N1 and drove south till the turn off for Tifnit. Continued down to the shore but didn’t see very

much. On our way back drove out through a very heavily grazed open stoney area which we then walked over.

Flushed four Little Owl and had more Lesser Short-toed Larks and Thekla Larks. Eventually headed to Agadir

airport to return the car having done c2000km.

The trip was very successful with superb views of the two target birds. Overall we saw a respectable 134 species.

Bob Swann robert.swann@homecall.co.uk