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The spectacle of marine giants surgingout of the depths with hungry openmouths is something you will neverforget, writes Roderick Eime

Monster rays of sunshine

BLUE WATERS: Exploring the islanddepths on an excursion from theSafari Explorer.

THE stage is set. Dazzling, luminouscolumns penetrate into the depthsfrom floating banks of floodlights.LED beams focus upward, searching,seeking, as if for alien craft. It could besome high-security submarinepenitentiary or the prelude to a BonJovi concert underwater.

Instead, a dozen or more of us areclinging to urchin-infested coral

outcrops at a depth of about 10m,craning upward, while a second groupfloats on the surface, eyes peeled. Wewait knowing that, like clockwork,they’ll arrive, drawn by our floatingbeacons. Already the water isthickening with microscopic animals.A mist of planktonmakes a kind ofwriggly soup above us as we hang onagainst the intermittent surges that

want to roll us around on the bottomand impale us on the nasty urchinsspread out like anti-personnel mines.

Wait, what was that? A dark shadowon the fringe of my vision. In aninstant it’s gone but then another, andanother. I wave my torch and catch aglimpse of the mighty animalswooping in like a stealth fighter, giantmouth agape, gathering theabundance of food and doubling backon itself for another pass.

Then, like a bomber caught insearchlights, it loops and rollsgracefully while the rest of thesquadron follows suit. Before long,there are six or seven performing avariety of manoeuvres, all designedto swallow as much of the planktonas possible.

Here at the so-calledManta Village,100m from the waterfront KeauhouBay hotel on Hawaii’s Big Island, giantmanta rays come in to dine everynight. Unflustered by the presence ofdivers and snorkellers, they gorge onthe tiny animals while executing amesmerising ballet.

They come in so close, I’m forcedto duck to avoid contact as thefearless monster ray passes overme like something from a sciencefictionmovie.

The mantas started coming heremore than 20 years ago, when thehotel put floodlights on the surf forguests’ enjoyment, says Kirk, myguide aboard expedition cruiseship Safari Explorer. People noticedand started snorkelling and divingwith the animals and now it is amajor attraction.

Continued Page 24

22 Escape.com.au

Cruise Hawaii

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*All prices are per person, twin share based on travel ex SYD. From prices shown are valid for travel dates as specifi ed above, prices and inclusions will vary for all other travel dates. Book & pay by 28Feb13. Additional local taxes, levies & charges may apply. Package prices are correct as at 15Jan13 but are subject to change at anytime without notice due to but not limited to changes in currency and taxes. All travel is subject to availability at the time of booking. Hotel conditions: Kurumba Maldives – Superior Room; Vivanta by Taj Coral Reef Resort – Charm Beach Villa and free dinner only valid on paid nights; Hilton Iru Fushi Island Resort & Spa – Beach Villa and Singapore stopover staying at the Peninsular Excelsior in a Superior Room (compulsory due to fl ight schedule); Taj Exotica Resort & Spa – Lagoon Villa and free dinner only valid on paid nights. Singapore Airlines booked in Q class; Min stay nil, Max stay 90 days. Q class fares accrue 50% KrisFlyer points but not valid for redemption upgrade. ^Savings shown are per couple and based on the difference between the promotional package and the year round package. Singapore Airlines Holidays reserves the right to change or withdraw any offer or package shown above. Credit card payments will incur a service charge, details on application. For full terms and conditions, please contact Singapore Airlines Holidays reservations. Operated by Pinpoint Travel Group Pty Ltd 2TA002974. PIN1127

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24 Escape.com.au

Cruise Hawaii

Go2HAWAIIGetting thereHawaiian Airlines and Qantasfly direct from Sydney toHonolulu. Inter-island flightsare operated by HawaiianAirlines. See hawaiianairlines.com.au or qantas.com

Doing thereAmerican Safari Cruises offersseven-night cruises from theBig Island toMaui betweenOctober andMay. Priced from$4995 a person, twin share,the fare includes groundtransfers, taxes, meals, wineand spirits, guides, ship-basedactivities, yoga and amassage. Seeinnerseadiscoveries.comA second vessel is planned forthis year. Contact UltimateCruising on 1300 662 943 orsee ultimatecruising.com.au

Staying thereMauna Lani Bay Hotel andBungalows on the KohalaCoast, seemaunalani.comFour Seasons Resort Lanai atManele Bay, seefourseasons.com/manelebayHyatt RegencyMaui, seehyattregencymaui.com

ALL ABOARD: (clockwise from above)Passengers embark via tender for anexcursion; the Safari Explorer; and amagnificent manta ray.

From Page 22

For me, the manta ray encounter isthe undisputed highlight of AmericanSafari Cruises’ eight-day HawaiianSeascapes itinerary around the lesservisited islands. Launched 15 years ago,the company specialises in small-ship,low-impact adventures for travellers.Focusing primarily on Alaska, but

also offering expedition-style trips inBritish Columbia, Mexico andWashington State, the companyreorganised in 2011 and became asubsidiary of a newly formed cruiseline InnerSea Discoveries. Theoperation now has seven vessels.Hawaii is the domain of Safari

Explorer, a sturdy, upscale36-passenger vessel. Equipped withkayaks, snorkelling kit, paddleboardsandmotorised tenders, we hug thesheer cliffs and duck in and out ofsecluded coves around the Big Island,Lanai, Molokai, Maui, Kahoolawe andtinyMolokini. Dining is healthy in theconvivial saloon, plus wine, spirits andmassages are included.It seems we have our own spinner

dolphin escort, too, accompanying the

little ship with regular aerial displays.While we spend a lot of time gettingwet, there’s plenty of time ashore, too,from the tourist towns of Kailua-Kona, to the sleepy village ofKaunakakai onMolokai, which willnever see a cruise ship of regularproportions if the adamant locals gettheir way. In contrast to the rampanttourism onOahu, where loud shirtsand Elvis Presley souvenirs set thescene, these islands still retain theremote, romantic allure that soattracted the first tourists.The island of Molokai is a case in

point. With fewer than 8000 residents,it is a kind of frangipani fortress fortraditional Hawaiian culture. ASC hadto submit to complex cultural scrutinyby the local community before thecruises were allowed to proceed.

‘‘We are grateful to the wonderfulpeople ofMolokai for their true alohaspirit and hold tremendous respect fortheir unwavering desire to preservetheir traditional lifestyle for futuregenerations,’’ ASC chief executiveDan Blanchard noted after reachinghis landmark agreement. ‘‘We aredelighted to be able to shareMolokai’s

beauty and honest and untaintedHawaiian spirit with our guests.’’From the lushHalawa Valley,

where we visit elder Lawrence Aki, tothe (optional) mule ride or hike to theabode of Father Damien and histragically renown 19th-century lepercolony as portrayed by Aussie actorDavidWenham in the filmMolokai,we learn that the island is anything butthe stereotypical brochure fantasy.Besides the comprehensive

activities offered as part of thestandard itinerary, guests can extendtheir experience with optional add-onssuch as scuba diving, horse riding andgolf on the nearby resort island ofLanai. The plush Four Seasons Resortserves as a junction for cruise guestsand is a perfect wind-up or wind-downfor those looking to add a few days totheir mid-Pacific break.While Hawaii deserves its

reputation as a fantasy island escape,ASC reconnects with the fundamentalHawaiian culture and natural beautyat the core of this kingdom.

The writer was a guest of AmericanSafari Cruises.

*Conditions apply. Prices correct as of 16 January 2013. A limited number of specials are available on all itineraries. Limited staterooms/seats on set departures and subject to availability. Offers may be withdrawn at anytime. EUROPE: Prices based on EUTCR15: 15 August 2013 (Category D) and EUTCRPP21: 12 August (Category D) departures. FLY FREE: including taxes (up to the value of $800 per person) is available for tours departing between May and September for all tours 21 days or longer. Only one special per person applies and cannot be combined with any other offer. FLY FREE JUST PAY TAXES is available on tours between 15 – 20 days. Air Taxes of approximately $800 per person at guests own expense. Flights are in economy class with Singapore Airlines or an airline of Travelmarvel’s choosing and subject to availability. Flights ex SYD/BNE/MEL/PER/ADL. Once class sold out surcharges apply. Flights must be booked by Travelmarvel. A non-refundable deposit of $3,000 per person is due within 7 days of booking. Final payment is due 100 days prior to departure. Book by 28 February 2013. VIETNAM: Prices based on VTM12 22 June, VTML22 26 June 2013, All based on cabin Category C. Offers are subject to availability, are not combinable, are available on new bookings only and may be withdrawn at any time. Fly Free offers are subject to availability of airline and booking class. Once booking class sold out surcharges apply. Flight must be booked by Travelmarvel. A non-refundable deposit of $2,000 per person is due within 7 days. Final Payment is due 100 days prior to departure. Credit card payments may incur a surcharge. FLY FREE: Includes air taxes to the value of $500 per person. Book by 31 March 2013. Offer valid on all tours of 12 days or longer departures between June 2013 and April 2014. Flights are in economy class with Singapore Airlines (or an airline of Travelmarvel’s choosing). Airfares are valid departing ex MEL/SYD/DRW/BNE/ADL/PER. Singapore stopover allowed in one direction. Australian Pacifi c Touring Pty Ltd ABN 44 004 684 619 Lic. No. 30112 TM0769_ST

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