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Module: 10

Understanding false eyelashes and eyelash extensions

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10.1 Introduction False eyelashes were first used in Hollywood in 1916, commissioned by film director DW Griffith

who wanted one of his actresses to wear exaggerated eye lashes. He asked a manufacturer of

natural hair wigs to make human eyelashes.

However, they didn’t become popular among the public until the 1960s. Today, they are widely

used, there are many varieties available and you can even buy them in supermarkets.

10.2 Types of false eyelashes There is now such an exciting range of false eyelashes available that you can create many

different looks, from demure to dramatic.

Individual eyelashes

They are the least commonly used type of false eye lashes. Each lash is separate and needs to

be applied separately. They are used to give more depth to poor eye lashes. The effect is very

natural and they’re ideal when you want a very discreet result.

Cluster lashes

These little groups of lashes come in various lengths. They are also very comfortable and

natural and provide greater thickness than individual lashes. This type is widely used in bridal

makeup.

Strip lashes

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These are the most commonly used type of false eye lashes. They extend from the tear duct to

the end of the natural lash line. They come in many lengths and thicknesses. One disadvantage

to these is that if your eye becomes wet or itchy, you may rub off the strip without noticing.

Middle eyelid lashes

These lashes are placed on the outer half of the eye. They create a feline effect and help the

eyes appear more open.

Fantasy eyelashes

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These lashes are colourful, an exaggerated size and incorporate long crystals, glitter and many

other fun effects. They are used with fantasy make up, for carnivals, for theatre and with certain

fashions.

10.3 Practical use of false eyelashes Various types of false eyelashes are a must-have in your makeup kit. The ones you will mostly

use will probably be cluster lashes for making up brides. These can also be cut and used as

individual eye lashes.

False lashes are typically used for important events, special occasions, night time party

makeovers and in the world of entertainment and fashion.

Eyelashes come with a glue stick. This can either be white, which turns transparent when dry, or

black which blends with the colour of the mascara and lashes.

Tips:

If you want to reuse false eyelashes, once they are removed from the eyes, immerse in a glass

with ethyl alcohol to dissolve the residue of glue. Then save them in their original container so

that they retain their shape.

If the wearer is likely to cry a lot, don’t use strip or cluster lashes as they are likely to fall off.

Avoid creams and oils on the eyelids so that the lashes don’t rub off easily.

10.4 Attaching false eyelashes Firstly, choose the most suitable type of lashes depending on the look you want to create.

Remove the wrapping gently, starting with the eyelashes for the left eye. They’re very delicate –

take extra care!

When using strip lashes, hold the lashes in front of your client’s eye to check if they are the

same size. If they are wider than her eye, cut them so that they fit perfectly.

Use a tweezers to hold the lashes and use the applicator to spread the glue along the base.

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Ask your client to close her eyes. Gently pull up the skin on the eyelid so that you can clearly

see the line of the natural lashes.

Stick on the false lashes by pressing them on the roots of the natural lashes. Use your fingers or

a round tipped tweezers.

Once the false lashes are glued on, ask your client to wait for a minute before opening her eyes

to ensure that they are securely attached

How to apply false eyelashes

Instructions

Carefully remove the lashes from the packaging so that they don’t break.

Hold the lashes with a tweezers and apply the adhesive all the way along the edge. You have

30 seconds before the glue starts to set.

With one hand, stretch the eyelid to see the natural roots of the lashes.

Next, stick the false eyelash along the natural line of lashes. Use the tweezers to help join the

false lashes to the natural ones.

When the glue is dry the eyes can be opened slowly.

10.5 Removing false eyelashes Prepare a bowl with warm water, sponges and cleanser.

Wet the sponges and squeeze out well. Place them on closed eyes. This will soften the glue

and is gentle on the eyes.

With cotton pads soaked in waterproof eye makeup remover, rub the eyelids downwards gently

until the lashes begin to lift off.

Once the false lashes begin to come away, pull gently to fully remove them.

Finish cleansing the eyes and the rest of the face as usual.

How to remove false eyelashes Instructions

To remove false eyelashes, you need:

A bowl with warm water, make up remover sponges, tissues, cotton pads and an oil based or

waterproof eye make up remover.

Firstly, wet the sponges in the warm water, squeeze out well and place them on the eyelids to

soften the adhesive.

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Next, take the eye make up remover and cotton pads.

Place some remover on the cotton pad, start above the eyelid and rub downwards.

Repeat this until you can easily peel away the false eyelash. The sides usually come away first

and, gradually, the centre.

Finish by cleansing the entire face as usual.

10.6 Introduction to eyelash extensions Eyelash extensions are a novel service and are in high demand.

It’s a traditional beauty treatment that requires a steady hand and also very delicate

movements.

Magazine images and red carpet looks of celebrities such as Naomi Campbell, Eva Longoria

and Beyonce have popularised their use.

They are commonly used in advertising to boost the effects of mascara and eyelashes.

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Module 10: False eyelashes and eyelash extensions

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There are three types of extensions.

Synthetic - made of plastic. They come in various thicknesses and the choice depends on the

effect you want to create.

Natural - usually made of silk or mink. This type gives a more natural effect.

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Coloured eyelashes - for fantasy looks or to create colour contrast with the eyes.

Measurements:

The length of lashes varies from 6mm to 17mm. Combining lengths creates different effects.

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Finish:

From more natural looking lashes to dramatic or tricolored.

IMPORTANT:

Always remember that you are working on a face and particularly the very delicate area of the

eyes.

Be careful not to put pressure on the eyes, not to pull on the eyelashes and to keep glue or

solvent from entering the eyes.

Before starting work, disinfect surfaces and working materials. Contagious conjunctivitis is

common - sanitise everything between each client.

If you have a cold, use a mask to avoid possible infection.

Ask your client to notify you if she feels any discomfort such as stinging or itching.

10.7 Kit needed for eyelash extensions Tweezers for eyelash extensions, straight or curved.

Disinfectant for tools.

Make up remover and water.

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Tissues.

Extensions glue (usually black).

Protectors for the eye contour.

Eyelash extensions of various lengths.

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Solvent for extensions glue.

Eyelash brush.

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Dryer for eyelashes.

10.8 Attaching extensions, step by step

Remove any make-up on eyelashes with a cotton ball soaked in water.

- Dry the lashes with a tissue.

- Apply the adhesive protector specifically for working with eyelash extensions, or place paper

tape in the area of the eyecup, covering the lower lashes to prevent them sticking to the upper.

- Squeeze some glue into a glass container.

- Select the extensions you want to place and put them on the eyelash sponge.

- Take an extension with the tweezers.

- Dip half of the extension in the glue.

- Apply the extension to the natural lash, 1 mm from the root and wait until it adheres.

- If you want the glue to dry more quickly you can use a dryer for extensions.

- Apply extensions alternately on every 5th natural lash.

- Some clients just want extensions on the outer half of the eye.

- In these cases, alternate extensions on every 3 natural lashes.

- When you’re finished your work, check that the result is uniform and comb lashes with an

eyebrow comb or spiral eyelash brush.

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- After the placement of extensions, remove the protective tape very gently.

- You may have to moisten this with water and cotton so it detaches more easily.

- Bring a mirror to show your client the end result.

Placing eyelash extensions Instructions

Before you start to work with a customer, prepare your tools and materials.

Disinfect tools with a specific solution.

If your customer is wearing make-up, remove this with a product that does not contain oil and

dry with a tissue.

Before starting work, it’s vital that you consider the delicacy of the eyes and the surrounding

area.

Pay close attention - be careful not to put pressure on the eyes and don’t allow any products to

get into them.

Apply adhesive protector specifically for eyelash extensions, or apply paper tape on the eyecup

area, covering the lower lashes to prevent them sticking to the upper.

In a glass container, place some glue.

Select the eyelashes you want to place and put them on the eyelash sponge.

Using an eyelash tweezers, take an eyelash extension.

Dip half of the extension in the glue.

Place the extension on the natural lash, about 1mm from the roots and wait for it to adhere.

If you want the glue to dry before moving on, you can use an eyelash extension blower.

As you see, we apply the extensions alternating every 5 lashes.

Some clients just want extensions on the outer half of the eye.

In that case, alternate extensions on every third eyelash.

When you’re finishing your work, check that the result is even and harmonious, combing lashes

with an eyebrow comb or spiral eyelash brush.

When you’ve finished placing the extensions, remove the protective tape very gently.

You may need to moisten with water and cotton so it detaches easily.

To show your client the end result, bring a mirror.

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Outline the maintenance tips that you studied in the theory of the course. You can also find

these in your ebook.

10.9 Customer Tips

During the first session with a client it’s very important to talk to her and give some advice.

We recommend that you print out a sheet listing these maintenance tips to give to each client

and make a follow up appointment:

During the 24 hours following extensions attachment, avoid:

Wetting the eyes.

Steam from the shower, kitchen or sauna.

Rubbing the eyes or combing the lashes.

After the first 24 hours:

We suggest daily combing of lashes using a specific transparent gel.

Do not use greasy or oily products as they may cause the glue to release.

Do not use cotton for cleansing as it can catch on the extensions.

Never pull the extensions, even when they are lifting off.

Do not use eyelash curlers.

Do not rub the eyes.

Avoid sleeping on your stomach.

10.10 Maintenance sessions

Eyelash extensions need maintenance every 15 to 30 days. This maintenance is to remove the

extensions that have loosened and replace those that have fallen off.

These sessions tend to be less expensive than applying a full set as you’ll use less materials

and take less time.

Step by step maintenance session:

- Firstly, remove make up from the eyelashes if necessary. Remember not to use products that

contain oil.

- Dry the lashes well prior to placing extensions.

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- Place paper tape or specific protector for eyelash extensions. Work in the area of the eyecup,

covering the lower lashes to prevent them sticking to the upper.

- With an eyebrow brush or spiral brush, comb the lashes to see where there are little gaps or if

there are lashes that are about to come off.

- With the help of the special solvent for extensions glue, remove all extensions that are not fully

adhered.

- Place extensions one by one on each natural eyelash where needed.

- When you finish your work, remove the protective tape very gently.

- Remind your client to avoid getting her eyelash extensions wet within 24 hours and of other

maintenance tips.

- Book a time and date for your next session and call your client a day beforehand to remind

her.

How to care for and maintain eyelash extensions.

Instructions

The natural lashes grow, fall out and regrow.

Extensions that are stuck to the natural eyelashes, then, are altered by this growth.

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Every 15 or 30 days, depending on the needs of your client, a maintenance session will be

necessary.

Firstly, remove any makeup on the lashes if necessary. Remember, you cannot use products

that contain oil.

Dry the lashes well prior to placing extensions.

Place your paper tape or specific protector for eyelash extensions on the area of the eyecup,

covering the lower lashes to prevent sticking to the upper.

With an eyebrow brush or spiral brush, comb the lashes to see where there are little gaps or if

there are lashes that are about to fall out.

With the help of special extension glue solvent, remove all extensions that are not fully adhered.

Place extensions, one by one, on each natural eyelash where they are missing.

When you finish your work, remove the protective tape very gently.

Remind your client to avoid getting her eyelash extensions wet within 24 hours and of other

maintenance tips.

Book the date and time for your next maintenance appointment and call your client a day

beforehand to remind her.

Exercise1

Buy a range of eyelashes in different types and different styles – individual, cluster and strip

lashes in different fashion effects and glue them on. Notice the different moods and looks they

achieve, which ones suit your eye shape and if you need to cut them to create a better fit. This

practice will help you to better advise clients on selections that suit them and their events.

Exercise 2

Prepare a bowl of warm water, sponges and eye make up remover. Practice removing false

lashes which have been glued on according to the guidelines in the course content. Notice how

long the sponges need to soak so that they come away with gentle rubbing. This will help you to

do this with clients confidently.

Exercise 3

In which decade did false eyelashes first become popular among the public?

A ) In the 1960s

B ) In the 1970s

C ) In the 1920s

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D ) In the 1860s

Exercises

Exercise 4

Which is the least commonly used type of false eyelashes?

A ) Individual lashes

B ) Fantasy lashes

C ) Strip lashes

Ask a few friends to come to your make up station. Notice their eye shapes and try different

fashion lashes on them so that you get used to how to enhance individual shapes and avoid

using types or shapes that don’t look well. This will give you invaluable practice before you start

working with clients.