L) )i-ø-’ ,kaim-’

YOUR’

WHITE De Luxe ZIG-ZAG

sewingMODEL 625

HOW TO USE AND CARE FOR

machine

11

Modern in appearance and functional in design, your new White automatic

sewing machine will enable you to do zigzag stitching, embroidery and straight

sewing with equal ease because of its many improved and simplified features.

To help you become thoroughly acquainted with your machine and to assure

you of mans’ hours of trouble-free sewing, we have prepared this instruction hook.

Please read it carefully and refer to it whenever you need information on thread

ing, stitch and tension adjustments, cleaning or any of the operations listed on the

next page.

WHITE SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION

CLEAVELAND II, OHIO

White Sewing Machine Products LtdToronto 1, Ontario, Canada.

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PagePage

CONTENTS 1

NAME OF EACH PART 2

SPECIAL FEATURES 3

1. TO WIND THE BOBBIN 4-.-5

2. TO THE SET NEEDLE 5

3. TO THREAD THE BOBBIN CASE ... 6

4. TO REPLACE AND REMOVETHE BOBBIN CASE 7

5. TO CLEAN THE SHUTTLE RACE ... 8

6. TO THREAD THEMACHINE & NEEDLE 9

7. TO PREPARE FOR SEWING 10

8. TO COMMENCE SEWING 10

9. TO REMOVE THE WORK 11

10. TO REGULATE1HE THREAD TENSION ... 11-.-12

11. TO REGULATE THESTITCH LENGTH 12

12. TO REGULATE THE PRESSUREON THE PRESSER FOOT

13. TO USE THE DROP FEED

14. BUILT-IN LIGHT

15. TO OIL SEWING MACHINE

16. SOME USEFUL SEWING HINTS

17. CAUSES OF TROUBLES

18. ZIG-ZAG SEWING

19. SEWING ON BUTTONS

20. MAKING BUTTONHOLES

21. DARNING AND EMBROIDERY

22. QUILTING

23. SEWING BRAIDS

24. NARROW HEMMER

25. SEAM GUIDE & THUMB SCREW

26. NEEDLE & THREAD SIZES

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JVane q each Pwd

28\

2726

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• Automatic darnertpressure reguiator

2. Pressure release ever3. Take-up lever4. Upper arm thread guides5. Arm6. Spool pins7. Stitch length regulating dial8. Reverse stitch button9. Balance wheel0. Bobbin winder releaseI. Bobbin winder2. Bobbin winder thread guide3. Drop heed push button

14. Drop Feed release button5. Vertical arm

16. Bed-plate17. Thread tension indicator18. Check spring19. Thread guide arm20. Needle clamp21. Peed dog22. 1-linged pressure Foot23. Needle24. Slide plate25, Presser Foot thumb screw26. Needle bar27. Thread cutter28. Race plate thread guides29. Lock screw For stop 3l30. Lock screw For stop 3331. Stop For lever 3232. Zig-zag width adjusting lever33. Stop For lever 32

5 87

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2116

— 2 --

Speci %ahi-es

AUTOMATIC DARNER PRESSURE REGULATOR - enables you to select the exact pressureaccording to the kind of material you are sewing.

STITCH REGULATOR - regulates the stitch length and helps you to select the stch sizewith ease and accuracy.

AUTOMATIC REVERSE STITCH BUTTON - enables you to sew in reverse automatically.

AUTOMATIC BOBBIN WINDER - winds your bobbin and stops automatically when your bobbin isPilled.

CALIBRATED UPPER THREAD TENSION REcULAToR - allows the tension of the upperthread to be easily and accurately adjusted according to thread and material weight differences.

DROP FEED PUSI-I BUTTON - regulates the height of your feed dog for embroidering ordarning and for different weights of fabrics.

BUILT IN LIGHT - illuminates your work for better nd efficient sewing without glare. Lightbulb is easily changed.

SNAP-OUT RACE - is so constructed that cleaning and eliminating tangled threads are verysimple and quick.

FLOATING PRESSER FOOT - glides over pins.

3

1. Ta ‘JtIi1d i4e tatI

1. To wind the bobbin the balance wheel must be disconnected from the stitching mechanism. 1-bid the balance

wheel with your left hand and turn the ciotch rig. 1 toward you with your right hand. This will permit

the hand wheel to turn freely while the needle bar remains motionless. The balance wheel is now

disconnected for the bobbin winding operation.

2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin (Pig. 2).

Draw thread from spool over guides, then down

ward across machine from left to right.

3. Pass the thread through the tension discs at the

right corner of the base of the machine.

4. Now wind the end of the thread around an emptybobbin seven or eight times and place the threadedbobbin on the spindle of the bobbin winder.

5. By pressing on the bobbin winder lever, the smallrubber wheel is brought in contact with the balancewheel. To lock into position, press bobbin winderlever until a clicK Is heard. The bobbin winderrelease latch is now touching the shaft of the bobbin.It holds the bobbin in place.

—4—Fig. 1

6. Operate the foot control or knee

conrol in the same manner as far

sewing and when the pobbin is

completely Full it wil1 stop turning

automatically.

Remove bobbin from spindle. Hold

balance wheel Firmly with the left

hand and with the right hand turn

clutch away From you until it can

not be moved any Farther. The

needle bar now moves with the

tuning of the balance wheel.

BAR-——NEEOLE ,NEEDLE

NEEDLE -FLATTI4PEAD GUARD SCREW

‘NEEOLE

SURFACE

CLAMP

-NEEDLE

NEEOLEZTHREA0HOLE ih-’-—.

Fig. 3

2. To ihe Sd IVeedle

1. Turn the balance wheel toward you, raising needle ber toits highest position, and loosen the needle clamp screw.

2. Hold the needle in the left hand with the point down, andinsert the needle up into the needle clamp as far as it willgo, with its flat surface to the right then retighten theclamp screw (Pig. 3.

P. 2

—5—

3. To Th’tead the &ilt& e

Before threading the bobbin case, study Pig. 4, 5, and 6 to

get a general idea as to how it is done.

1. F-told the bobbin case with your left hand and put the bobbin into

the bobbin case with your right hand, leaving about two inches

of the thread end unwound

(Pig. 4). As the bobbin is being

inserted in the bobbin case

the thread flow is clockwise.

as before, grasp the thread end

with your right hand, and guide

it into the cross slot (Pig. 5.

3. Then pull it through under the tension spring of the

bobbin case “Pig. 5’ until it enters the delivery

eye (Pig. 6.

Fig. 6

2. While holding the bobbin case

Fig. 5

Fig.

—6—

4. Ta /?eztace azd /emo.ie

g’he J2O1LILÜi eQALe

1. Raise the presser foot by lifting the presser bar lifter.

2. Raise the needle bar to its highest point, by turning the

balance wheel toward you.

3. Pull out slide plate ‘Pig. 7

4. After threading the bobbin case, hold it by the latch with

its position finger opposite the notch at the top of the

shuttle race. Replace it on the center stud of the shuttle

(Pig. 8).

5. Then releasethe latch andpress the bobbin case inuntil the latchcatches thegroove nearthe end of thestud with a click that can be heard.

6. Allow the end of the thread to hang free about 2 to 3 inches.

7. Pull back slide plate.

To remove the bobbin case do all the above in reverse order.

Fig. 7

Fig. 8

5. Ta eIea. Sh4lle IZ’ace

When the thread is tangled in the race or dust gets into

the space between the shuttle and shuttle race, follow this

procedure

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position and take

bobbin case out.

Fig. 9

2. Release the KNOBS A

pulling them sidewise,

and the shuttle. Pig. 9, 10

3. After shuttle race and bobbin case have been cleaned, put

all of them back in reverse order.

4. Snap knobs into place as seen in Pig. 9.

II

Fig. 10

on both sides of shuttle race by

then take out the race cover “B”

—8—

6. To Thead i4e iWachiwie g J1’eedle

1. Turn the balance wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever

to its highest position.

2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin.

3. Lead the thread through the arm thread-guides (lig. 1).

4. Pun the thread down through the thread-guide to the tension

discs and around them From right to left and up.

Draw the thread up through the check spring and thread

guide arm.

5. Then pass the thread through the eye of the thread take-up

lever from right to left.

6. Now run the thread down through the face plate guides

and then through the loop of the needle bar guide from

the back.

7. Finally, run the end of the thread through the eye of the

needle FROM LEFT TO RlGl-lT, drawing it through aboui

3 or 4 inches.Fg. 11

—9-.--

7. Ta /‘ejzae ja. Sewui

1. l-old the end of the upper thread with the left hand, leaving

it slack from the hand to the needle.

2. Turn the balance wheel toward you as the needle goes

down and rises to its highest position.

3. Pull the thread you are holding, and lower-thread will be

brought up with it through the hole in the needle-plate, as

shown (Fig. 12.4. Place both ends of the upper and lower thread behind the

presser foot Fig. 13

8. Ta eie Seui#z9

1. Place the fabric to be sewn beneath the presser foot.

2. Lower the presser fcot, by lowering the presser bar lifter

Fig. 11).3. Commence sewing by slowly turning the balance wheel

towards you while gradually pressing the lever of the foot

or knee control.

Always turn balance wheel toward you and not away from you.

Fig. 12

Fig. 13

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9. Ta /emaue he ‘k/a’zh

1 Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the balance

wheel toward you.

2. Raise the pressere foot by lifting the presser bar lifter.

3. Move the fabric back to the left and cut off the thread by passing

it over the thread-cutter above the presser foot.

4. Leave both ends of the thread a few inches long, under and to the

back of the presser foot.

For ordinary stitching the tension of the upper and

lower threads should be equal so as to lock both

threads in the center of the material Pig. 1 4 . If one

tension is stronger than the other, imperfect stitchingwill result. Fine materials require a light tension,while heavy materials require more tension to obtain

a perfect stitch.To INCREASE the tension, turn the thread tensionindecator ‘Fig. 15 clockwise.TO LESSEN the tension, turn the thread tensionindicator in the opposite direction. When regulating

tension always have the presser foot down/.

Fig. 4 Correct Stich

10. Ta /e9uIate 4e Th’iead Tesa.

Needle Thread Tensicn too strong

Needle Thread Tension too weak

Fig. 15

—11—

Tension regulating screw

As all machines are correctly adjusted before leaving the factory the lower tension seldomneeds to be altered, but, if this be comes necessary, tighten the screw in the tension springon the outside of the bobbin case for more tension, or loosen the screw slightly for lessertension ig 16

NOTE : Do not turn screw in either direction more than about one-quarter turn at a time.Then check for results.

If. Ta /e9uIcde ifhe Süich .J?e#i94

The length of the stitch can be changed by turning thestitch length regulating dial “L”. pig. 1 7

When the number 0, appears under the pointer the

material is not being fed through the machine.

To change stitch turn the dial clcckwise gradually to

feed material forward and to lengthen stitch. The

longest stitch is at 5, the shortest near 0.

To sew backward, push the Button R”, and material

will be fed backward automatically.

When you take your finger off the button, the machine

will again sew forward.

Pig. 16

— 12 —

12 Ia I?e€1a1e he P’i&isu’ze o 44e P’sesse- 42&

To regulate the pressure for darning and embroidering, press latch down thereby releasing pressure Pig. 18

Place a finger on the DARNER to cushion the sudden rise of this cap when it is released *

Allow the DARNER to rise all the way siowly ‘Pig. 19

Por ordinary sewing, push automatic darner back down ‘Pig. 18.

When little pressure is required for thin fabrics, push darner only pert way down.

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DARNER

ia

Fig. 18

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13. To ‘Use he o71z 4leed

By using the drop feed buttons you may adjust the feed dog for sewing different types of materials

and for embroidering or darning Pig. 20

1. or sewing very light fabrics, push the drop Feed button “DOWN” half-way; for heavier cloth push the

button marked “UP” to return feed to highest level.

2. When the drop Feed button “DOWN” is pushed down completely, the feed will be lowered below

the surface of the needle plate.

This is for embroidering and darn

ing, and you wili be able to move

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your work freely about in any

direction ycu choose.

3. Por embroidering and darning, first

remove pressure on presser foot

(Page 19).

DROP FEED PUSH BUTTON DROP FEED RELEASE BUITON

p

— 14 —

14. i2ad1- &çhi’

The lamp housing is enclosed in the lower side of

the arm Pig. 21 . Turn switch right Knob clockwise

to light, and do the same to turn it off.

Pull down left knob to replace n burned out bulbwith a new one.

To have your mchino aways in smocth running conditionyou must keep it oiled at all times.

No grease is necessary. Just a drop of oil is sufficientat each time. Oiling points are iliustrated in Pig. 22. Tiltthe machine over to get oiling points underneath the bed.

After oiling, run the machine at high speed for a fewminutes to get oil to penetrate to all parts.

Lu

Fig. 21

Fig. 22

/5• To I 4e Sew jWach.#ze

— 15

/6. So.ne ‘Us44’ Sewu A1üds

TO TURN CORNERS:

1. Stop the machine while the needle is still in the material.

2. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric using the needle as a pivot.

3. Lower the presser foot and resume sewing.

TO SEW ELASTIC FABRICS:

In sewing such elastic materials as jerseys, bias Cut cloth, etc., it is advisable to sew them with reduced

upper thread tension. otherwise the thread will break when the sewn materials are stretched.

TO SEW VERY THIN CLOTH:

When sewing very thin cloth which tends to gather as you sew, place a sheet of newspaper or any other

thin paper underneath the material and sew with the shortest stitch possible. This will keep your work

from gathering.

BASTIN&:

1. Reduce the tension of the upper thread and employ the longest stitch possible.

2. The stitches may then be easily removed by pulling the lower thread.

TO KEEP YOUR MACHINE IN PERFECT CONDITION:

1. Keep all moving parts of the machine constantly oiled and clean.

2. Always turn balance wheel toward you, even when by hand.

3. Do not run machine without fabric under the presser foot.

4. When sewing, do not pull the material because you will bend the needle. The machine is designed

to feed the material automatically.

5. Do not operate machine when the presser bar lifter is raised.

—. 16 —

17 eause o/ Ttoa41e

BREAKING OF THE UPPER THREAD:

1. Incorrect threading. 2. Upper thread tension too tight.3. Defective needle, or needle set incorrectly.

4. Needle rubbing against presser foot or other attachments.

5. Needle eye too small for thread used. 6. Imperfections in sewing thread.

7. 1-lole in needle plate damaged and rough.

BREAKING OF THE LOWER THREAD:

1. Incorrect threading of the bobbin case. 2. Lower thread tension too tight.3. Bobbin being wound too fully.

BREAKING OF THE NEEDLE:

1. Pulling the fabric while machine is sewing thus causing the needle to strike the needle plate.2. Using bent needle.

SKIPPING STITCHES:

1. Using bent or blunt needles. 2. Needle inserted incorrectly.

3. Needle threaded improperly. 4. Using wrong size needle.5. Pressure on presser foot insufficient, especially when sewing heavy material.

UNEVEN STITCHES:

1. Presser foot not resting evenly on material. 2. Peed dog not adjusted high enough.

3. Too short stitches used. 4. Pulling the cloth while the machine is sewing.

5. Needle too fine for material or thread too coarse.

— 17 —

6. a Sewu9

Your zig-zag sewing machine, by virtue of its deiign, permits

you to do many kinds of work. The Controls for the zigzag

stitch are located on the arm of the machine, as may be seen

on Fig. 23. Notice lever “B” which adjusts the width of the

zigzag seam. For ordinary straight sewing this lever must be

set to the left, at ‘0’ on the indicator. By moving this lever

gradually to the right toward “5” the machine will sew a zigzag

seam of increasing width, depending on the position of the

ever. To return to a previously used width of zigzag stitch

after having done some straight sewing, or for special types of

work such as sewing buttons or making bar tacks, stop “A” will

be found useful. This serves as a stop for lever “B”. To

set stop “A”, loosen lock screw “D”, turning it to the left.

You then will be able to slide it sideways which, moves

stop “A” to the desired marking. Tighten lock screw “D” by

turning it to the right. The lock screw also tightens stop “E”.

The purpose of this stop is to make possible a second setting

of zig-zag width. Thus, when you want to alternate between

>

Li

— 18

a narrow and a wide zigzag stitch, you use both stops “A” and “E”. Por example, set stop “A’ at 4 and

‘E” at 1, tightening the lock screws, “C” and “D”. This will assure you oF being able to always revert

to the same size zigzag seams. You will find this feature especially covenient when making buttonholes.

(Refer to chapter on making buttonholes;.

19. Seuu az

Turn balance wheel toward you to raise needle to its highest position. Raise

presser bar and remove regular presser foot. Attach button sewing foot

shown in Pig. 25. Drop the feed as required for darning and embroidery.

Upper end lower thread tensions remain the same as for ordinary sewing.

Place material or garment with button under the presser foot, so that

holes in button line up with oblong opening in presser foot.

With zigzag stitch knob “N” (Pig. 23( adjust width of zig zag stitch to

permit needle to pass through center of holes in button. Before sewing

with power, turn balance wheel by hand (toward you) making one stitch

into each hole in the button, to be sure that needle clears. Then sew

five to six stitches to attach button. Move zigzag stitch knob “N” Pig.

23 to 0 and take two or three stitches through the same hole to lock

machine and snip threads.

When attaching four-hole buttons, follow above procedure twice.

thread. Remove garment from

F;g. 25

- 19 -

.20. ,Yahi &dhoIes

1. Set the zigzag stitch locking dial “S” Rig. 23 at 2.

2. Raise presser foot and turn balance wheel toward you to bring needle to its highest position. Remove regular

presser Foot From presser bar by loosening thumb screw, and attatch special buttonhole foot shown in

fig. 26. Tighten thumb screw.

3. Set stitch length regulator knob “L” to obtain closely spaced Forward stitches. Best length of stitch for

buttonholes is when the knob “L” (rig. 17) is placed between 0 and 1. Adjust length of stitch, if

necessary, to get best possible appearance of buttonhole.

4. Slightly tighten needle thread tension, turning tension

regulator to the right. IF appearance of buttonhole

should not prove satiscactory, slightly vary tension

until the desired results are obtained.

NOTE: It is suggested that you make one or two sample

buttonholes on a scrap of your garment fabric, to test )adjustments of machine and to make corrections, if

needed. Also mark with pencil or chalk the position

and exact length of buttonhole on garment. Fig. 26

To sew buttonhole, place garment under the button

hole presser foot with the start of pencil or chalk

marking showing in center of presser foot opening.

— 20 —

pencil or chalk marking showing in senter of presser foot opening. Stitch left side of buttonhole to end

of marking. Stop machine with needle to the right of stitching. Leave needle in fabric, raise presser foot

and turn garment half-way around in clockwise direction. Let presser foot down, raise needle and push

zigzag stitch lever ig. 23 to the right as far as it can be moved. Sew four or five stitches to make

the bar at one end of the bottonhole. Return zigzag stitch lever to the left position at 2 and sew the

other side of buttonhole. When arriving at end of buttonhole, again move zigzag stitch lever to the right

for making second bar with four to Five stitches. Remove garment from machine and open button

hole with cutter or buttonhole scissors. Be careful to avoid cutting the buttonhole stitching. To

make reinforced buttonholes introduce gimp of proper size into the small hole at the front of the button

hole foot. Sew over gimp as machine makes buttonhole seams. Por flat buttonholes leave thread tension

pretty much the same as for ordinary sewing. Pearl stitch buttonholes require a tight tension of the needle

thread, Por better appearance, use needle thread of the next heavier size.

21. .aiüz azd L’mL’wide

Push the drop feed button “DOWN’ all the way down to permit the fabric to be moved in any direction.

Remove presser foot and release pressure as shown in Pig. 18.

Embroidery is most successful when fabric is stretched in a hoop. old hoop on machine bed with both

hands, operating machine at a fairly high speed while moving the work slowly. Slightly increase the

bobbin thread tension to prevent the lower thread being pulled up.

— 21 —

2a1h4

The quilting attachment Pig. 26 will enable you to sew evenly spaced

lines on padded fabrics without marking them in advance.

To attach the quilter to the presser bar of the machine, First pull long

curved bar out of horse-shoe shaped clamp. Place the clamp on tne

presser bar above presser foot, and push the bar through holes in

clamp.

Adjust curved end of bar to desired distance from needle so that it

presses into fabric, Then tighten thumb screw to lock quilter attach

ment into place. When sewing, quilter bar should follow preceding

line of stitching.

same as straight stitch quilting with

23. Sewüi9 &aids

Remove regular presser Foot from the machine and attach braiding foot,

as shown in Pig. 27. Thread braid through small hole at Front of foot.

Adjust width of zigzag seam and length of stitch to obtain a covering of

the braid which appears most desirable for the material you are sewing.

Using needle thread of a contrasting color will enhance the beauty of

your braiding.

C

1

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Fig, 26

Zigzag stitch quilting is done the

the zigzag stitch lever set for any desired width.

22

.24. j4a44ow d/enine-z

NOTE : Do not crowd material into scroll and do not leave scroll only partly fifled by material. Feed justenough material into the hemmer foot to fill out the scroll.Instead of a straight stitch, you can also use a zigzag stitch for this hemming operation.however, to adjust the width of the zigzag stitch to the width of the hem. Using a veryand tight tensions will produce a shell stitch.

Fig. 28

Turn balance wheel toward you until needle reaches its highest

point. Raise presser bar and remove regular presser foot.

Attach hemmer foot (Fig. 28). Now handle material as

follows

1. Fold over edge of material approximately ‘“ then fold

it over again for about 2”. Insert this folded end intospiral formed opening (scrolL of hemmer foot.

Move material back and forth until the hem forms itself

in the scroll.

2. Pull material toward you until the beginning of the hem is

just below the needle.

Guide material into hemmer foot while proceeding with work3. Lower presser foot and begin to sew.Fig. 28

Be sure,

long stitch

—23 —

25. Sea#n Qude & Sc4ew

This is an attachment designed as a guide for straight stitching

when making wide hems, deep tucks, or seam width which are

greater than presser foot allows. ‘lig. 31

It is attached to machine as illustrated...a very simple operation.

Fig. 31

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25. NEEDLE - THREAD - FABRIC - STITCHIN6 3UIDE

Machineabric Needle No. I Stitches Cotton Mercerized Silk or

Thread Thread Nylonper lncn

Extremely heavy-tarpaulin, sacking, 6 104 to to Heavy Duty —

canvas, duck, etc.8 30

Heavy-unholstery Fabric, ticking, 8 30. 3 to to Heavy Duty —

denim, leatherett, etc.10 40

Medium-heavy drapery fabric, velveteen, 10 40. 2 to to Heavy Duty

—

suiting, felt, terry, etc.12 60

Medium-broadclote, percale, gingham,12 60linen, chintz, taffeta, sheer wool, 1 to to 50 A

shuntung, etc. 14 80

Sheer-voile, lawn, dimity, cgepe, 12 to 14 80handkerchief linen, plastic film, etc.

0 (PJticPiIm 50 A

Very sheer-chiffon, batiste, lace, 16 100. 00 to to 50 Aorgandy, ninon, net, marquisette, etc. 20 150

— 25 —