military illustrated modeller nov 2014 - superunitedkingdom

military illustrated modeller£6.50 - Nov’14 (issue 043)modellerwww.militaryillustratedmodeller.com

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Catalogue 2014 Ask your local distributor or contact: Italeri S.p.A. - via Pradazzo, 6/b 40012 - Calderara di Reno - Bologna - Italy - Phone +39 051 31 75 211 - email: [email protected]

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Contents military illustrated modellerISSUE No.043 November 2014

4 NEWS What’s happening in modelling and aviation

6 PACIFIC SPITFIRE Airfix’s 1:48 scale Spitfire Vb converted to a Vc

by Brett Green

8 PREVIEW Kinetic 1:48 Sea Harrier

20 TENSIONAL INTEGRITY Wingnut Wings 1:32 Fokker E.II/E.III (Early)

by Dirk Polchow

26 SHOW REPORT Australian Model Expo 2014

30 THE PFEIL FILE HK Models’ 1:32 Dornier Do 335 B

by James Hatch

44 SPEED DEMON Kitty Hawk 1:48 MiG-25PD ‘Foxbat’

by Kamil Feliks Sztarbala

54 THE EAGLE HAS LANDED PT.2

Eduard 1:48 Bf 109 G-6 by Brett Green

60 MIM INDEX Issues 1 to 15

65 NEXT ISSUES What’s coming up in the next issues of

Military Illustrated Modeller

66 TAILPIECE Revell 1:32 Junker Ju 88 A-1

Aircraft Edition 3

20

20

54

6

44

p 03 Contents 043B.indd 3 30/09/2014 12:01

4 Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2014

News

A t the start of 2013 Jon Plumb sent a new Airfix kit to his friend Stu Bradley in France, thereby starting the money raising project now known as “Round the World in an Airfix

Kit.” The plan was to circulate the Airfix kit around the pre-determined group of 15 modellers of varying abilities, each to complete their own part of the build and pack the kit ready to forward on to the next modeller. Jon chose the 1:48 English Electric Lightning because it was the next model he planned to make from within his existing collection. It was an ideal choice as, based on the parts included it offered an even spread of parts for each user.

This well-travelled Airfix kit has met modellers in the UK, France, Germany, Croatia, Greece, Romania, Spain, Italy, Australia, California, Illinois and Northern Ireland. “Initially we felt there was a risk of people letting the team down; only two of the team knew each other previously but regular communication helped to build a relationship and trust. Surprisingly there have been no breakages. Bryan Finch in California had to start putting the wings on so he took responsibility for the creation of a lightweight transit case. When Erica Rose sent it from Illinois to Northern Ireland, the HMRC charged us £115 import duty to release it; thankfully Chris Spalding of the Modellers’ Nook Model Shop came to the rescue!”

James May completed the final pieces on 7th August 2014. James is a long standing fan of Airfix having begun modelling kits as a child and was delighted to help this worthy cause by donating his time and additional publicity. He patiently applied tiny parts under the watchful gaze of the team. James said “I’ve been involved in the Help for Heroes cause before, they do some excellent work and I was delighted to be able to help Jonny raise money for them. I think Airfix is an important part of childhood and it’s interesting to see it develop into something more mature, when I was young it was the birthday present for all my friends, teaching us all patience! With Airfix you can have your own aviation museum on your table top.”

“The brief to the team was to treat the kit as their own using their skill and materials. The only rules were... post lots of pictures, make sure the build is done to represent XR770. If they wanted to use aftermarket and additional bits or super detailing they could. The final rule was to enjoy the build.

This was not supposed to be the best ever lightning Airfix model, but the team have produced a world class model!!!”

Jon Plumb who has been the driving force behind the project is proud to announce that the idea has already raised over a thousand pounds for Help for Heroes. The final sum will be announced after the completed model, with decorative plinth presented as a raffle prize at Scale Model World Exhibition in Telford.www.bmycharity.com/roundtheworldinanairfixkit

“I also have a remarkable admin team, of which Stu Bradley, Alan Hooker and Mark Davey. Over the project we’ve become a real team, really supportive of the aims of the project.” said Jonny “We chose Help4Heroes as it’s multi service and our project aims, by its very nature, to be inclusive of all.

We raised additional money by getting companies to donate modelling kits and

supplies, and selling raffle tickets and anyone who would like to get involved can donate via our charity giving page.”

Thanks to Hornby Hobbies Limited for the information and images www.hornby.com •

James May with the team and a very well-travelled Lightning kit.

The Airfix Lighting working on James May!

ROUND THE WORLD IN AN AIRFIX KIT

James May working on the Airfix Lightning.

p 04 News 043.indd 4 30/09/2014 12:48

IPMS(UK)

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PACIFIC SPITFIRESPITFIRE

FEATURE ARTICLE: AIRFIX 1:48 SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE MK.VB. • Kit No. A05125


p 06-17 Spitfire k vb 043B.indd 6 26/09/2014 13:30

PACIFIC SPITFIRE

Aircraft Edition 7

The Editor transforms the new Airfix 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.Vb into a Mk.Vc using Alley Cat’s resin conversion.

T he 1990s saw the peak of Airfix excellence with their 1:48 scale English Electric Lightning, Seafire Mk. 46/47 and Spitfire Mk.22/24 kits. These were the equal of anything coming

out of Japan at the time, and they have remained the pinnacle of Airfix quality until now.

Airfix picked up the baton again in 2007 and have been busy releasing new 1:48 scale Spitfire and Seafire kits ever since. The first of this new generation was, appropriately, the Mk.I. That kit was generally nice but had a number of weaknesses including thick wings, chunky clear parts, decals with visible dot-screen effect, and a fuselage that was based on the 1970s-vintage Spitfire Mk.Vb kit. After a short shuffle backwards with their Mk.IXc, Airfix picked up their game significantly with a Spitfire Mk.XII and Seafire Mk.XVII during 2011. These were all-new kits with improved surface features and clever engineering.

Even so, they still hadn’t reached the standard of the Spitfire Mk.24, especially in terms of surface finesse and detail.

Airfix released a 1:48 scale Spitfire PR.XIX in late 2012. This was a brand new kit, and a definite improvement over the previous year’s Mk.XII and Mk.XVII, with finer panel lines and better detail. At last, Airfix had matched, or even slightly bettered, the standard of their 1990s Spitfire Mk.24 and Seafire 46.

THE NEW AIRFIX SPITFIRE MK.VC IN THE BOXThe new Airfix 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.Vb comprises 123 parts in light grey plastic, 17 parts in clear and markings for two aircraft.

This is an all-new kit with absolutely no parts in common with any previous Airfix Spitfire release. In my opinion, this kit is even better than 2012’s Spitfire Mk.XIX.

Moulding quality is very good. The plastic is smooth, and moulding imperfections are few. The most obvious is a faint vertical line on the mid-fuselage at the location of the rear cockpit bulkhead, but this may disappear under a coat of paint.

Surface detail is by way of recessed panel lines. These are finer than those seen on any of Airfix’s latest generation of 1:48 scale Spitfires. Fabric texture on the elevators and rudder is subtle.

As good as the Spitfire XIX was, this cockpit is the best effort yet in any Airfix Spitfire. It features the correct bottomless floor, with separate parts for the various bulkheads, the seat and an instrument panel with simple but effective raised bezels. I particularly like the separate lower cockpit halves, which are moulded with crisp raised detail. All you really need is a set of harness straps, although even that won’t be required if you choose to use the supplied pilot figure. You may wish to drill out the lightening holes in the seat bulkhead though. A separate pilot’s entry door with moulded-on crowbar is also included.

The exhausts are one piece for each side. The outlets are solid, so a little time with the sharp end of a hobby knife will be required to hollow them out. Three styles of exhaust are offered.

Two propeller and spinner options are included – Rotol and de Havilland.

The wings are moulded as a full-span lower section plus separate upper wing halves. The various bulges are all moulded in place. The only insert is in the leading edges for the Hispano cannon barrels. Strengthening strakes are moulded onto the upper wings. Check your references carefully as these were not universally fitted to the Spitfire Vb.

Control surfaces are all supplied separately except the flaps, which are moulded closed. This is appropriate, as the the flaps were generally not seen deployed except on approach and while landing. The port and starboard elevators are moulded as a single part so you can’t accidentally pose them out of alignment.

The main wheels are bulged and flattened, and keyed to the axles of the undercarriage legs to ensure they sit flat on the ground. A second set of unflattened wheels are supplied for raised undercarriage. The wheel hubs are five-spoke.

The kit features two styles of separate “saddle” insert on the front fuselage decking for alternative windscreens. A one-piece mid and rear canopy piece is supplied for the closed option. If you want to pose the canopy open, Airfix has supplied separate overlapping parts.

Other options include Vokes tropical filter, alternative oil cooler housings, poseable radiator flap, a large slipper tank, two 250 lb bombs and racks, clipped wing tips (supplied as separate parts in both clear and grey plastic) and two styles of aerial mast.

Parts breakdown is conventional, with locating pins and other devices that make this model perfectly appropriate for even less experienced modellers.

STARTING AT THE FRONT OFFICE Construction gets underway in the well-appointed cockpit. The instructions are typical Airfix fare with colour callouts (Humbrol numbers only) along the way, but the painting suggestion in Steps 1 and 2 appear to be incorrect. The Interior Green colour




(Humbrol 78) should extend one station further back before the silver starts. Indeed, it is possible that the entire fuselage interior was painted Interior Green, with silver not being used until later in the war.

I decided to follow the paint instructions though, and found that it did not make much difference as the seat and the bulkhead largely hid the demarcation line once the cockpit was installed.

The cockpit parts were built up as sub-assemblies and separated into groups depending on whether they would be painted Interior Green or black. The fuselage interior was painted while the fuselage halves were still attached to the sprues. I used Tamiya acrylic XF-71 Cockpit Green for the RAF Interior Green parts, and Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver straight from the spray can for the relevant silver fuselage and cockpit interior sections.

Weathering was applied using a mix of Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black, tap water and Future

floor polish as a wash. This mixture settles in the recesses and edges, leaving a subtle impression of shadows and perhaps just a little grime.

The instrument panel features raised bezels and switches. Airfix supplies a single decal sheet to apply over the textured plastic part. I was a bit dubious about how this would work but, with copious quantities of decal setting solution, the decal finally sat down onto the panel. It looked quite good in the end, but next time I will use my favourite Airscale instrument and placard decals.

The only aftermarket item used on the entire kit was a photo-etched harness that I borrowed from an Eduard set for a 1:48 scale Sea Hurricane.

With the sub-assemblies painted, I started to test-fit the cockpit components. I found that some of the locating slots were too tight, so I removed some fine flash using the tip of a new hobby knife blade. The instrument panel, floor/rudder pedal assembly and what I think is the gust lock (Part

C20) are effectively sandwiched between the two cockpit halves to form a tub. This step took a bit of fiddling, but a good pair of tweezers and a little patience did the trick.

The locating slots for the two rear cockpit bulkheads needed to be cleaned out too.

GETTING IT TOGETHERThe completed cockpit tub was glued onto the starboard fuselage side per the instructions, then the two halves were brought together. The fit was perfect.

At this stage, the upper fuselage cowl insert was added. The fit had been so good to this point that I did not even test fit, but it soon became clear that the fit was not good. In fact, it was pretty rotten. I had to cut out the closed cockpit door to improve the fit at the back of the insert, but even after lots of fiddling and adjustment I was left with a noticeable step at the top front of the insert.

Airfix supplies a “B” wing with reinforcement strakes on the upper surface, plus the small inboard bulges to accommodate the wheels.

Both Rotol and de Havilland propeller assemblies are provided. Many options are offered, including the large slipper tank.

The big clear sprue includes early and late style canopies, and different parts for open and closed canopies.

The cockpit is very well detailed straight from the box. Note the moulded detail on the sidewalls.

Markings are supplied for two aircraft.

The cockpit bulkheads and “bottomless floor” parts.

The seat is made up from six parts, but you’ll have to bring your own harness if you don’t plan to install the pilot.

The fuselage interior was sprayed with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver straight from the can. The mating surfaces were masked with Tamiya tape before painting.


Aircraft Edition 9

The fuselage interior was then masked and the cockpit area sprayed Tamiya acrylic XF-71 Cockpit Green.

Smaller parts were built in sub-assemblies then grouped by colour. They were then attached to small boxes using Blu-Tack, which makes them easier to handle and faster to paint.

The painted sub-assemblies ready to be fitted.

Fit of the bulkheads is tight, so make sure you clean up any flash prior to assembly.

The control column and rudder pedal assemblies have been added here.

The cockpit is built as a tub before installing in the fuselage.

The completed seat, along with a colour photo-etched harness from Eduard.

The seat and rear bulkheads have been fitted to the cockpit here.

The cockpit tub has been glued to the starboard fuselage side and is being held in place with a clamp while the cement sets.



FEATURE ARTICLE: AIRFIX 1:48 SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE MK.VB. • Kit No. A05125 AIRFIX 1:48 SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE MK.VB. • Kit No. A05125

Fit of the cockpit parts is very good, but make sure that everything is snugly in place. This rheostat was thin enough to apply

pressure on the forward cockpit where it meets the fuselage interior.

Although fit until this point had been close to perfect, the saddle insert for the windscreen / cowl area was very poor, even after tight taping.

The problem area after some sanding. Next time, I will radically trim the forward bulkhead, sand the insert and keep test-fitting until the fit is better than it was here.

The view from below. The fuselage landing light protrudes into the bottom of the cockpit, hence the hole.

Alley Cat’s conversion provides a replacement wing with the correct large C Wing bulge and panel lines.

The bottom of the wing includes the revised shell ejection chutes and panel arrangement, but the “K” shaped reinforcement on the roof of the wheel well should be replaced with two parallel strips.

Alley Cat also provides new cannon fairings for all four positions, plus stubs for the more common two-cannon configuration.

After laying the resin wing over the kit’s lower wing, I used a Post-It Note as a template to draw cutting lines on the plastic.

The pencil line before cutting.


Aircraft Edition 11

‘This is an all-new kit with absolutely no parts in common with any previous Airfix Spitfire release. In my opinion, this kit is even better than 2012’s

Spitfire Mk.XIX.’

The pencil line before cutting.

A strip of self-adhesvive Dymo tape was used as a guide to a new Olfa knife blade to cut the plastic. Rather than one deep cut, try applying multiple light passes of the knife.

One half of the cutting has been finished here! Don’t forget to drill holes for the slipper tank before fitting the wing to the fuselage.

The mounts for the landing gear are quite authentic, but in scale and in plastic they are fiddly and delicate. They don’t offer any positive location for the rake or splay of the landing gear legs either.

The resin Alley Cat wing sections were secured to the remains of the plastic lower wing with super glue. They were clamped until they had set.

Clamps are a very handy tool to have on your modelling bench.

The port wing before any filling or sanding. Note that there is a slight overlap of the plastic leading edge. This was later corrected with Milliput and a sanding stick.

The wing was attached to the fuselage. Fit was generally good, although there were gaps at the wing root that would need filling later on.




Dear reader, do not do what I have done! Next time, I will probably cut off the top of the front cockpit bulkhead then test-fit and trim the insert until I achieve the best possible fit. It may even be possible to assemble the fuselage halves and the insert before gluing the cockpit in place.

ALLEY CAT CONVERSIONBy happy chance, just as I was sealing up my kit’s fuselage, A2Zee Models announced a new 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.Vc resin conversion in their Alley Cat range.

Ali kindly sent me one of the first castings even before the instructions had been printed.

The conversion comprises two large resin wing castings incorporating the entire top wing and the unique panel and shell ejection arrangement of the “C” wing, plus four cannon barrels, two stubs and new bulged undercarriage doors.

The lack of instructions was not really an impediment. I used the resin wing as a template, then drew the cutting lines on the kit lower wing using a Post-It Note. The lines were cut with a

new hobby blade and self-adhesive Dymo tape as a guide, making many light passes in case of slip-ups.

After I posted some photos of my conversion on the Internet, it was pointed out that the wheel well roof of the Mk.Vc did not have the “K” shaped reinforcements of the Mk.Vb, but instead two simple parallel strips. This is the same as the arrangement on the Mk.IX Spitfire. This information was too late for me, but you can make this simple modification if you wish.

The resin wing sections were fixed to the plastic remnant of lower wing using super glue. Fit was pretty good, but there was a gap at each of the wing roots once the wing was glued to the fuselage. These were filled with Milliput White two-part epoxy putty.

PAINTING AND MARKINGSFor this project, I used Mr Color lacquers in my Testor Aztek A470 airbrush. I love the way these paints spray.

This particular aircraft was delivered in the

desert colours of Dark Earth and Middle Stone upper surface with Azure Blue below. Upon arrival, the Middle Stone was overpainted with RAAF Foliage Green. For the purpose of this exercise, I used Mr Colour 123 RLM 83 Dark Green as a reasonable match.

Markings were sourced from Aero Imageworks Decals Item No. A014807 – RAAF Supermarine Spitfires in the Pacific War Part 1. These are limited run decals that come with a small booklet with reference and marking information.

I have had these in my collection for years and never really been game to use them as I was worried that the ALPS-printed decals may be translucent. In the end though, I thought that the scheme was so interesting that I would take a chance.

As it turned out, the decals performed beautifully. I cut the markings out – the carrier film cover the small decal sheets – and then simply applied them after dipping in warm water. The decals were not noticeably more delicate than standard screen-printed markings, and even

• Kit No. A05125

Control surfaces are separate and may be posed to taste, including the paired elevators.

Parts for the tropical Vokes filter and the large slipper tank.Clamps come in all shapes and sizes! This one is being used to squeeze the slipper tank while the glue sets.

One of the wing root gaps. The surrounding areas were masked with Tamiya tape before the wing root gaps were filled with Milliput.

The joins at the bottom of the wings received the same treatment.

The model after filling with Milliput and a topping of Tamiya Surfacer. The cannon fairings and the wing leading edges were drilled and pinned with copper wire reinforcement.

Lower surface filling complete.


Aircraft Edition 13

The entire model was sprayed with Tamiya’s Fine White Primer. The port-side wing root gap kept cracking open, so I re-filled it with a mixture of super glue and talcum powder.

RAAF aircraft in the Pacific Theatre wore while tail and leading edge markings in line with US Fifth Air Force instructions. The tail and leading edges were masked off with Tamiya tape.

Mr Colour lacquer C370 Azure Blue was sprayed on the lower surfaces.

The lower fuselage, bottom of the Vokes filter and the bottom of the horizontal tail surfaces were masked off with Tamiya tape.

Aero Imageworks’ decal instructions were scanned, scaled up to 1:48, printed and cut into camouflage masks.

The paper camouflage masks were attached with small blobs of Blu-Tack and masking tape.

This Australian Spitfire had its factory applied Middle Stone coat repainted in RAAF Foliage Green. I chose Mr Color 123 RLM 83 Dark Green as a fair match for this colour.




‘By happy chance, just as I was sealing up my kit’s fuselage, A2Zee Models announced a new 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.Vc resin conversion in

their Alley Cat range.’

• Kit No. A05125

‘By happy chance, just as I was sealing up my kit’s fuselage, A2Zee Models announced a new 1:48 scale Spitfire Mk.Vc resin conversion in

their Alley Cat range.’

Military Illustrated Modeller - November 2014

The finish looks a little stark when all the masks are removed.

Aero Imageworks decals were applied over a few glossy coats of Future Floor Polish.

A thin wash of Tamiya X-18 Semi-Gloss Black mixed with water and Future Floor Polish was flowed into panel lines with the tip of a fine brush.

Further post-shading was applied with heavily thinned lines of a XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 mixture applied with the Testor’s Aztek A470 airbrush.


Aircraft Edition 15 Aircraft Edition

MODELSPEC

Airfix 1:48 Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Vb. Kit No. A05125

Accessories Used:

Alley Cat Item No. AC48050C - Supermarine Spitfire Mk.Vc Early Style Full Span Wing Conversion (Airfix Mk.Vb)Aero Imageworks Decals Item No. A014807 – RAAF Supermarine Spitfires in the Pacific War Part 1Eduard 1:48 scale photo-etched Sutton Harnesss

Tools & Modelling Products Used:

Tamiya Extra Thin CementRevell Contacta CementSelley’s Super GlueZip Kicker (super glue accelerator)Tamiya Masking TapeIrwin Clamps

Paints & Finishing Products Used:

Tamiya Spray Cans: Grey Primer; Fine White Primer; AS-12 Bare Metal Silver; TS-34 Camel YellowTamiya (acrylic): X-18 Semi-Gloss Black; XF-1 Flat Black; XF-2 Flat White; XF-3 Flat Yellow; XF-10 Flat Brown; XF-14 J.A. Grey; XF-57 Buff; XF-69 NATO Black; XF-71 Cockpit Green.Tamiya Weathering Master - Weathering Pastels Parts A.Mr Color lacquer paints: 123 RLM 83 Dark Green; 135 Flat Russian Green (1); C369 Dark Earth; C370 Azure Blue; Mr Hobby Mr Color Leveling Thinner 400.Vallejo Model Color (acrylic): 919 Foundation White; 70891 Intermediate Green; 70953 Flat Yellow; 70957 Flat RedTestor’s Model Master Flat Clear Lacquer FinishSolvaset decal setting solutionFuture Floor PolishWinsor & Newton Oil Paints: Raw Umber

High level of detail; restrained surface textures including recessed panel lines and cowl fasteners; generally clever engineering; lots of useful options.

Poor fitting cowl saddle; no positive location for main landing gear legs. RATING: 9 out of 10

Kit was purchased online from Hannants www.hannants.co.uk

Thanks to A2Zee Models for the Spitfire Mk.Vc Conversion www.a2zeemodels.co.uk

The propeller blades were primed with white, followed by a coat of Tamiya TS-34 Camel Yellow before the tips were masked and the blades painted a dark black-brown shade.

The bright spinner is painted with Mr Color 135 Flat Russian Green (1).

Canopy parts were masked with Tamiya tape then mounted on a paint brush handle before painting.

The canopy frames were sprayed with Tamiya acrylic XF-71

Cockpit Green prior to their camouflage coat.

Smaller exterior parts were sorted by colour and attached to boxes for painting.



FEATURE ARTICLE: AIRFIX 1:48 SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE MK.VB. • Kit No. A05125 FEATURE ARTICLE: AIRFIX 1:48 SUPERMARINE SPITFIRE MK.VB. • Kit No. A05125

Undercarriage parts, separate pilot’s entry door, pitot tube and aerial mast ready for final assembly.

The exhausts received a dusting of Tamiya Weathering Pastels to suggest lean exhaust staining.

Propeller blades were “chipped” with the tip of a silver pencil.

The same silver pencil was used to add chipping to the wing root area. Typically heavy exhaust streaks and oil stains were sprayed onto the lower surfaces.


Aircraft Edition 17

the whites were perfectly opaque. They also responded well to Solvaset setting solution.

This particular set is out of print at the moment, but the Aero Imageworks website is still active.

The only real downside is that their products are eye-wateringly expensive for what you get. Still, value is very much in the eye of the beholder.

FINISHING TOUCHESFinishing off the model was very straightforward with only one exception. The main landing gear legs have no positive locating positions at all.

They are simply butted up against the staggered mount protruding from the undercarriage bays. The legs are quite narrow, and the staggered join makes drilling and pinning a bit problematic too. I wound up using super glue and Zip Kicker accelerator to snap freeze the legs in place.

The final touches included the wheels and exhausts (this aircraft had flat covers on the wheels and the heater pipe removed from the exhausts), the open pilot’s entry door, the gunsight, canopy, antenna mast and pitot tube.

CONCLUSIONThis is an excellent kit. Not only is it certainly Airfix’s best Spitfire kit to date, I would rate it the best Spitfire Mk.V currently available in any scale.

Detail is well done, surface textures are crisp and restrained, many useful options are included, and fit is generally very good.

Roll on Airfix! •

the whites were perfectly opaque. They also responded well to Solvaset setting solution.

This particular set is out of print at the moment,

They are simply butted up against the staggered mount protruding from the undercarriage bays. The legs are quite narrow, and the

CONCLUSIONThis is an excellent kit. Not only is it certainly Airfix’s best Spitfire kit to date, I would rate

The top coat is a light application of Testor’s Model Master Flat Clear Lacquer Finish, leaving a slight sheen.

This was an interesting and an enjoyable project.


The British Aerospace Sea Harrier is a naval short take-off and vertical-landing/vertical take-off and landing jet fighter, reconnaissance and attack aircraft, a

development of the Hawker Siddeley Harrier. It first entered service with the Royal Navy in April 1980 as the Sea Harrier FRS1 and became informally known as the “SHAR”.

Unusual in an era in which most naval and land-based air superiority fighters were large and supersonic, the principal role of the subsonic Sea Harrier was to provide air defence of the fleet from Royal Navy aircraft carriers.

The Sea Harrier served in the Falklands War, both of the Gulf Wars, and the Balkans conflicts; on all occasions it mainly operated from aircraft carriers positioned within the conflict zone. Its usage in the Falklands War was its most high profile and important success, where it was the only fixed-wing fighter available to protect the British Task Force. The Sea Harriers shot down 20 enemy aircraft during the conflict with one lost to enemy ground fire. They were also used to launch ground attacks in the same manner as the Harriers operated by the Royal Air Force.

The Sea Harrier was marketed for sales abroad, but by 1983 India was the only operator other than Britain after sales to Argentina and Australia were unsuccessful. A second, updated version for the Royal Navy was made in 1993 as the Sea Harrier FA2, improving its air to air abilities and weapons compatibilities, along with a more powerful engine; this version continued manufacture until 1998.

The aircraft was withdrawn early from Royal Navy service in March 2006 and replaced in the short term by the Harrier GR9, now itself retired, although the intended long term replacement is Lockheed Martin’s F-35 Lightning II. *

Kinetic continues its commitment to modern jet-age aircraft with its second British subject - a 1:48 scale Sea Harrier FA2.

This is only the second Sea Harrier FA2 available in 1:48 scale, the first being an Airfix kit released in 1997, which was itself based on the early 1980s-vintage Sea Harrier FRS.1.

This brand new kit from Kinetic comprises 243 parts in light grey plastic, 16 parts in clear and a small photo-etched fret. Markings for 28 aircraft are included.

Surface detail looks very nice,

with recessed panel lines, vents and rivets over the airframe.

Moulding quality is high, with minimal ejector pin circles, seam lines or sink marks. Some of the moulding is really clever too, notably the one-piece nozzles. All four nozzles are connected by a mechanism that should, if installed carefully, make them all rotate to the same angle simultaneously.

Cockpit detail is nice straight from the box, with raised detail on the side consoles and instrument panels; and excellent moulding on the sides of the ejector seat. You’ll need to BYO harness straps though.

The canopy is split into windscreen and opening section. The latter features the prominent detonation chords moulded into the top.

The stressed metal effect on the nozzle blast shields looks great.

Optional parts are provided for open or closed auxiliary blow in doors; open or closed air brakes; and the control surfaces and flaps are all offered as separate parts, allowing them to be posed to taste. Landing gear doors may be fixed open or closed too.

The modest photo-etched fret provides additional detail parts including scale thickness wing fences.

Of the 243 grey plastic parts, 104 are dedicated to ordnance.

On the two ordnance sprues you will find AIM-120 AMRAAM, AIM-9L Sidewinder and Sea Eagle missiles plus pylons and tanks of various sizes.

Decals are designed by Crossdelta and luxuriously printed by Cartograf. The decal sheet is big and colourful, with two commemorative schemes plus 26 aircraft depicted at disbandment in 2004 and 2006.

Colour callouts are offered for Vallejo and GSI Creos (I believe this is Gunze-Sangyo acrylic) paints.

CONCLUSIONThis is another really nice modern subject from Kinetic. It simply blows away the hybrid 1:48 scale Airfix Sea Harrier FA2 from 1997.

Kinetic’s all-new 1:48 scale SHAR is well detailed, offers many useful options and alternative position parts, and provides a wealth of ordnance. Engineering appears straightforward and it should not be a difficult build.

I look forward to starting mine! •

* Historical information from Wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Aerospace_Sea_Harrier

Thanks to Lucky Model for the sample www.luckymodel.com


KIT PREVIEW: KINETIC MODEL KITS 1:48 SEA HARRIER FA2 • ITEM NO. K48041

HOVERING FIST

The Editor takes an early look at Kinetic’s all-new 1:48 scale Sea Harrier FA2.

The kit features nice surface textures.

The seat detail looks great.

Excellent stressed metal effect on the blast shields.

The large colourful decal sheet.

Clear parts.

A photo-etched fret is also included.

HOVERING FIST

This brand new

small photo-etched fret. Markings for 28 aircraft are included.

looks very nice,

p 18 Harrier Pre 043B.indd 18 26/09/2014 13:33

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Revell 1:32 Spitfire Mk.IIa book

HOW TO BUILD... REVELL 1:32 SPITFIRE MK.IIAThe name Spitfi re has now become synonymous with an entire island people, and their battle to maintain their freedom in the shadow of the Nazi jackboot. The very shape and sound of the Spitfi re seems to still invoke and embody the usually reserved pride of the British person.It is probably true to say that Reginald Mitchell’s beautiful aircraft design is one of the most easily recognised and much-loved shapes that ever took to the skies. When actual mass production of the Spitfi re ceased in 1948, over 20,000 machines had been built, and operated by over thirty countries around the world.This iconic series saw service with the RAF right up until the mid-1950s. It also saw service with the Irish Air Corps as late as 1961; a full 26yrs after the fl ight of the prototype K5054. Revell has now released an all-new 1:32 scale Supermarine Spitfi re Mk.IIa. With some minor modifi cations, this model may also be built as a Mk.I or a Mk.Va.Over the course of fi ve Chapters, James Hatch examines the kit contents in detail, describes construction of the model with lavish illustrations, and points out the areas of the kit that may be improved and corrected.This new book features an exhaustive step-by-step guide to construction; plus a painting and weathering tutorial. A number of essential reference resources are also included.More than 200 photos, a reference guide, and photos of the kit sprues are all included - a must have before you build the model!

Only£9.95plus p&p

p 19 Spitfire Book 043.indd 8 25/09/2014 17:17

FEATURE ARTICLE: WINGNUT WINGS 1:32 FOKKER E.II/E.III (EARLY) • Kit No. 32018

Dirk Polchow builds Wingnut Wings 1:32 scale Fokker E.III Early Version


The Fokker Eindecker E.II entered service in July 1915 and was built at the same time as the E.I version. Both monoplanes were based on the Morane-Saulnier design and were fitted

with an innovative steel tube framework. The E.II was equipped with the more powerful

100hp Oberursel engine, a copy of the French Gnome Monosoupape. This single valve rotary engine had the best power to weight ratio of all German engines during WW I. The E.II also had a larger fuel capacity and was equipped with a reliable Spandau IMG 08.

The E.II and the later E.III and IV variants guaranteed sovereignty over western airspace for at least one year. The undoubtedly most important advantage that lead to its superiority was the achievement of the ability to fire through the propeller. The development of a synchronization mechanism, based on the patented interrupter gear from Hans Schneider, lead to perpetual judicial disputes as Richard Alexander points out in his introduction to the Wingnuts Fokker E.II booklet.

p 20-25 Fokker e iii 043B.indd 20 26/09/2014 13:33

Aircraft Edition 21

TENSIONAL INTEGRITY



FEATURE ARTICLE: WINGNUT WINGS 1:32 FOKKER E.II/E.III (EARLY) • Kit No. 32018

INTRODUCTION

After my last build, Wingnut Wings’ RE.8 “Harry Tate” (see MIM issue 031), I was looking for a less time consuming but interesting project. Early on, Wingnuts’ Fokker E.II/E.III awoke my particular interest for the following challenging features. First, wartime photos clearly show squiggles as the result of the forming and polishing process of the cowlings. What techniques are suitable to reproduce those unique “turned” metal cowlings? Lots of early Fokker monoplanes show a silk matte “Fokker Beige” over clear-doped linen. Subtle shading and weathering techniques will be necessary to get this fuselage to life in a convincing manner.

It was also my intention to use self-made masks for the fuselage bands and large crosses. Self-painted insignias have the advantage that weathering and colour-fading techniques can be used in a realistic manner. This article will therefore highlight the steps involved that have been a new experience for me.

The last feature was the overall rigging and especially the rigging of the cabane struts and landing gear. With its large wingspan this monoplane model definitely requires structural rigging to prevent the wings from hanging down. What material can be used and in what order can the rigging process forge ahead to an overall tensional integrity?

By the way: Tensional integrity or Buckminster Fuller’s term “Tensegrity”, is structural principle based on the use of isolated components in compression inside a net of continuous tension” (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tensegrity). So that’s what rigging is all about, isn’t it?

One of the first and most challenging steps was painting the inner sides of the metal cowling. The sheer number of squiggles that had to be reproduced led me to search for economical methods. I tried different materials like structured foils or textiles that I wanted to use as a template by spraying the aluminum coat with my airbrush. I even used different materials such as stamps. In the end the easiest method, advised by Wingnuts “Hints and Tips” showed good results. As a base coat I used Alclad Semi matt aluminum. Afterwards I sealed the coat with Vallejo Gloss Varnish. The squiggles were hand-painted by using Vallejo Aluminum acrylics. Lots of patience and in my case the help of a magnifying glass lead to a convincing outcome. (Image 1)

I used the same method for the outer sites of the cowlings and was able to increase the contrast of the squiggles by rubbing some MIG Metal Pigments into the surface after the painting process. The work on the cockpit coaming and the cowlings took about six hours. (Images 2, 3)

The instrument panel has been painted with Tamiya XF 78, sealed with semi-gloss varnish from Vallejo. The wood grain has been brushed with sienna and umbra oil-paints. The detail on the pulsameter has been added by a heat stretched transparent sprue and the wiring was done by using .2 mm copper wire. The instrument

INSIDE THE OFFICEINSIDE THE OFFICE

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AircraftEdition 23

EnginE Works

The Oberursel U.I rotary engine was a licence- built Gnome Delta. In fact Wingnut Wings uses the same engine sprue as the AMV DH.2. Oil must have spread out in large quantities and the overall look must have been quite greasy throughout the cylinders, the inner side of the cowlings and on the bottom of the fuselage. To reproduce the different materials used on the engine, Alclad paints proved, in my view, to have the best results. The lacquer can be added without any primer. For shiny colours like polished aluminum or chrome a black base coat can increase the brightness and helps to give some variation. So keeping this in mind, I first painted the engine block and the cylinders in XF-1 Flat Black. (Images 7, 8)

The next step was to paint the cylinder block in Alclad Chrome by using a template. The coat was polished and treated with MIG Metal Pigments later on. Agama Burnt Metal paste was added to the base/mounting of the cylinders for some contrast. After studying pictures of the E.II at the Science Museum, London, I had the idea to simulate the burned coloured and greasy effect on the cylinders by using yellow and

red oil paints. To create a more subtle effect, the paints were blended by using white spirit later on. I added ignition cables by using 0.05 copper wire. The last step was to add the decal and to wash, using with a highly diluted mix of black and brown oil paints. (Image 9)

glasses were made by using Micro Kristal Klear. Especially the metal elements on the decals for the switches came out very realistically. (Image 4)

The cockpit floor received some weathering with pigments and different oil-painted wood grains for the two covers. The wiring of the control cables and especially for the rudder bar was quite challenging. The cables popped away in the final stage of using oil-paint. I guess that the solvent (white spirit) softened the plastic and cause it to break. Finally I fixed the cables directly onto the rudder bar. The control column got some extra wiring for the MG switch. All black parts were treated with metal pigments. The structural wiring of the frame was done by using 0.12 mm fishing line. The turnbuckles were made with 0.4 mm Albion tubes. To simulate the winding the monofilament was wrapped with 0.05 mm copper

wire. (Image 5)The cockpit was far more complex than I

expected when I looked at that small instrument panel at the beginning. Especially the bracing

wires and the wires under the oil pump caused some fitting problems when the fuel tank was positioned together with the instrument panel between the side frames. (Image 6)

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ThE “gErmania” and ThE “garuda”-TypE propEllEr

9

I made two types of propeller - one Garuda-type “Feldpropeller” and one “Germania Propeller”. While the Germania-type was suitable for my EII 69/15 Kurt von Crailsheim, the Garuda -type was more challenging because pictures of the original propeller showed two very dark red-brownish types of tropical wood (Mahogany and another type) used for the lamination process.

This proved to be difficult to replicate because of the minimum of contrast between the wooden tones. I tried my best with Vallejo paints, giving the propeller a base coat with a mix of Vallejo 036 Mahogany and 033 ochre. For the masking I used Tamiya masking tape, cut into strips of 0.5 – 1.0mm. The stripes marked the outer regions of the darker wood and the space in between was filled with more tape. For the lighter type of wood I used the same Vallejo mix of colours but more 033 ochre. Slight height differences between the

10



FEATURE ARTICLE: Wingnut Wings 1:32 Fokker e.ii/e.iii (early) • Kit No. 32018

The PainTwork on The Fuselage

For the fuselage and the wings I planned to use a bottom layer of XF-55 linen to be covered with the requested dark yellow. Similar to my PC10 work on the Harry Tate I wanted to sand down the paint to its base, the linen. So after applying XF-55 this first coat was sealed with Vallejo Satin Varnish. My next step was to mask the wing rips and the metal tubing frame under the linen. Some light pre-shading was followed by a brownish coat along the masks. It was not easy to tone down this contrast. While PC 10 has shown great saturation, XF-60 on my German fighter wasn’t that handsome. Various steps of spraying translucent layers and sanding followed. At last the wings responded well to the final layers and resulted in a nice subtle variation of the coat. (Image 13)

On historical photos the fuselage seems to differ between shades of more or less lighter or darker regions, analogous to canvas that has been painted with a monochrome colour and has then been rubbed and scratched so that the underlying base coat comes through. I decided to get that effect by using the “Sponge technique”. I used a

mixture of XF-55, white and XF-60, heavily diluted with water and applied it with a sponge. Again the surface was sanded down with 5000 mesh to get a more homogeneous finish.

The next step was to add some brown to the fuselage and repeat the process near the engine and the cockpit where most of the dirt appears. Tamiya smoke was used for grease on the base tubing of the cockpit shining through the linen. A coat of highly diluted “Fokker Beige” was sprayed to make the overall effect more subtle. In sum, Tamiya smoke was extremely useful for the grease on the base tubing of the cockpit shining through the linen from inside. Before spraying Tamiya Smoke, the structure of the frame was masked again. Finally the masks were taken off and another light coat of smoke was sprayed on. The technique was repeated on the wings, especially on the wing root section. Diluted Tamiya Smoke was also used to simulate smoke from the engine on the linen und around the metal plates. More weathering by us. (Image 14)

PainTing The insignia

I decided to spray the insignias and stripes on my Fokker E.II 69/15 with self-made masks instead of using the decals. The reason was to get some slight variations on the colour of the stripes and to add some weathering by sanding down the coat on the stripes. (Image 15)

So the first step was to mask the overall region. I used the decals as templates and marked the places for the outer masks. Tamiya XF-2 Flat White was sprayed on the white and yellow regions. Afterwards the white coat was sanded down and sealed with future. The next step was to mix the proper colour for the yellow -beige stripe. I used a basic mix of Tamiya Flat Yellow (XF-3) and Tamiya XF-10 Flat Brown. Small amounts of XF-7 Flat Red enriched the lacquer to a warmer tone. The coat was sprayed in various intensities and the edges of the stripe were given some Tamiya Smoke. After a final coat of future and two hours of waiting, the yellow region was masked. Again I used the decals as templates and measured the varying widths of the upper, down and side decals. A coat of Tamiya Flat Black was sprayed on, taking care that the saturation of the coat varies. For the crosses I used masking tape that will fit the four ellipses that are

needed to spray the crosses.The radius is easy to find: The cross decals on

Wingnuts sheet are arranged in a four square pattern. Between the four decals are the numbers of the decals, positioned in a circle. The middle of the circle is the centre point for the circle that will touch both, the left and the right hand decal. The tape around the ellipses marks the outer four square border of the white base for the crosses. The ellipses were cut out by using an Olfa-Cutter. Tamiya XF-2 Flat White was sprayed, sanded down and sealed with future. The cross itself was painted by using XF-69 Nato Black. XF-1 follows in inconsistent saturation and irregular patterns. (Image 16)

For the rudder I added some turnbuckles, made by 0.6/0.3 mm Albion tube and 0.15 mm copper wire. For the locating pin to the fuselage I used Albion tube of the same size. The rudder was sprayed by using Tamiya XF-60 as “Fokker Beige”. I used the “hairspray method” and sprayed a layer of XF-2 Flat White over the coat of hairspray. By using a wet brush, the underlying beige comes out on specific, heavy exposed areas, especially towards the outer parts of the rudder. (Image 17, 18)

two colours due to the different numbers of layers lead to a very convincing representation of the real lamination process. After a coat of Vallejo Gloss Varnish, oil paints were used for the wooden grain. The umbra oil paint was applied undiluted with a sponge. After waiting for about ten minutes the grain was worked into the oil paint by using a brush moistened with white spirit. Some black grain was applied using the same method.

After a drying time of three days, the propeller was sealed with Vallejo semi-gloss varnish. The propeller hub was detailed by drilling a few wholes around the hub. These drillings for weight reduction are documented on the windsock file vol. 28. (Images 10, 11, 12)

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Aircraft Edition 25

MODELSPEC

Wingnut Wings 1:32 Fokker E.II/E.III (Early). Kit No. 32018

Accessories Used:

Gaspatch „Type A“ bucklesTectan Fluorcarbon Fishing Line 0,012mm/0,004in

Tools & Materials Used:

Tamiya Extra Fine CementRevell Contacta Professional CementUHU Cyanacrylat Super GlueHarder and Steinbeck Evolution AirbrushDremel Multi-ToolBrass rod and drills from 0,3mm to 1,2mmTamiya 10mm Masking TapeIsopropyl AlcoholFuture Floor Finish / KlearCopper wire, 0,20mm, 0,15mm, 0,05mm; tin-lead solder 0,5mm


Tamiya Acrylics as listed in instructions paint calloutsTamiya X-20 ThinnerAlclad II Lacquers: Alc-104 Pale Burnt Metal, ALC-105 Polished Aluminium, ALC-111 Magnesium, ALC-112 Steel, ALC-108 Pale Gold, ALC-110 Copper, ALC-103 Dark AluminiumNorma Professional Oil paints: 680 translucent redbrown, 624 burnt umber,792 ivory/black, 610 burnt Sienna, 681 English red light, 114 titanium white, blueSchminke 50038 “Medium 1” turpentineValleyo Model Air acrylics: 71058 Gloss Varnish, 085 Italian Red, 71057 Black, 062 AluminumValleyo 100% Acrylic Resin: 70522 Satin Varnish, 70520 Matt VarnishMIG-Pigments: P034 Russian Earth, P23 Gun Metal, P033 Dark MudMicroscale Products: Micro Sol, Micro Set, Micro Kristal Klear

References Used:

Windsock Worldwide Vol.28

Acknowledgements:

Many thanks to the forum members on ww1aircraftmodels.com for their supportPostscript: My Fokker E II came 1st on Euro Model Expo in Heiden, Germany 2014

TENSIONAL INTEGRITY

After finishing and painting all the sub-assemblies my plan was to use structural rigging. With its large wingspan, this monoplane model definitely requires structural rigging to prevent the wings from hanging down. While building Wingnut’s FE2.b I experienced that different tension of the cables easiliy result in an unbalanced overall tension that will cause some cables to hang down. So its highly recommended to plan the stages of rigging, moving from the inner wiring to the outer. Especially the rigging of the

cabane struts and its counterpart, the landing gear, require some enhancement to deal with the overall high tension that will focus on those parts. I cut off the kit turnbuckles and replaced them with the Gaspatch Type A metal buckles. 0.4 mm holes were drilled into the cabane struts and the turnbuckles were fixed with Cyanoacrylate. 0.05 copper wire was wrapped around the junction between the buckles and the struts to minimize the difference between the struts and the turnbuckle’s diameter.

The control cable pulley is scratch-built by using bent 0.5 mmm Albion Alloy tube and two disks made of evergreen sheets. The junction between the

discs will bear the cables. After studying Scott’s scale drawing of the Fokker EIII at Windsock Worldwide, I decided to create my own, more narrow type of turnbuckle for the undercarriage. I used 0.12 mm fisherman’s Fluorocarbon Monofilament for more stability. One eyelet made of .15 copper was put into 0.5 mm Albion tube while the monofilament was fixed to the other side. Copper wire, bent around a 0.3mm drill that was used to simulate the winding.

The rigging was done by using the 0.5mm

Albion tube to fix the monofilament on the eyelets of undercarriage and the turnbuckles. (Image 19)

The monofilament was glued to the points near the cockpit. Again 0.05 copper wire and Albion tubes were used for the turnbuckles. The buckles were pre-painted in their colour code (right-wing in red, left-wing in green, center-struts in blue) while the rest of the turnbuckles were painted after the rigging was done. The monofilament was led through the corresponding turnbuckle of the landing gear and was fixed in the outer hole of the wing. I tensioned the monofilament by using a heavy soldering tweezers. The turnbuckles were secured with superglue.

All this was a very time consuming process and I hoped that the later structural rigging on the upper side of the wing would correspond to the tension on the downside.

It was very important to plan the stages of rigging because, after completing the top side rigging, the plane can’t be laid on its back anymore. First I added the control cables for the rudder and the elevators by fiddling a piece of bended copper wire through the whole and fixing the monofilament on the end of the wire with Cyanoacrylate. (Image 20)

After the plane was turned on its carriage, the monofilament went down a little bit due to the

weight of the wings. For the rigging of the upper side, the tips of the wings were placed on acrylic paint pots. The fuselage and landing gear had no contact with the workbench. This caused the wings to bend upwards and let the bottom monofilament gets its tension back. The upper rigging was prefixed and clamps with some extra weight kept the monofilament tight. All upper monofilaments were fixed with Cyanoacrylate step by step. After the Fokker was put back on its carriage again, the tension was evenly spread throughout the under and upper side of the wing. (Image 21, 22, 23) •

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Extraordinary’ is the only way to describe this years Australian Model Expo, which was held over the weekend of the 7 – 9 June, 2014.

The competition attracted a record breaking 718 entries from 247 competitors, 61 of whom were first timers. These figures are the highest ever recorded in the event’s 31 year history. The general consensus was that there were a lot of great models on show this year, which clearly demonstrates that the hobby of plastic scale modelling is alive and well.

A greater number of clubs also attend this year, 31 in total, which pushed the number of models on display to well over 2000.

Because of the large number of competition

entries some of the categories were almost bursting at the seams, with Large Scale Aircraft, Gundam & Mecha, Sci-fi and Dioramas being the standouts.

Mark Carlisle won the ‘Best of Show’ award for ‘The Khastripede’, a much admired and superb piece of work, which caused a real stir amongst the Gundam/Mecha boys.

Saying that the 2014 Australian Model Expo was a huge success would be an understatement, and is a real testament to the hard working volunteers who make this show happen each year.

For more photos and information go to www.modelexpo.com.au •


SHOW REPORT: THE AUSTRALIAN MODEL EXPO 2014

AUSTRALIAN MODEL EXPO 2014-09-14Rene de Koning presents an illustrated report on the varied winners at this year’s Australian Model Expo.

Jason Hudson. Stunning 1:48 scale US Navvy HH-60 Rescue Hawk secured him a 1st place in the Rotary Wing Aircraft category.

‘ entries some of the categories were almost bursting at the seams, with Large Scale Aircraft, Gundam & Mecha, Sci-fi and

Mark Carlisle won the ‘Best of Show’ award for ‘The Khastripede’, a much admired and superb piece of work, which caused a real stir amongst

Saying that the 2014 Australian Model Expo was a huge success would be an understatement, and is a real testament to the hard working volunteers who make this show happen each year.

For more photos and information go to

AUSTRALIAN MODEL EXPO 2014-09-14Rene de Koning presents an illustrated report on the varied winners at this year’s Australian

Mark Carlisle produced this magnificent looking Sgt Connor figure which took out 1st place in the Sci-fi, Movie, Fantasy-Single Figure, Bust or Creature category.

p 26-28 Australian Model Expo 043B.indd 26 26/09/2014 13:35

Aircraft Edition 27 Aircraft Edition 27

Stuart Coleman. Impressive 1:72 Airfix Short Stirling placed 1st in the Small Scale Aircraft-Modified category and also won the Best Airfix award.

Jason Steinwedel. Fine example of the 1:48 Airfix Gloster Javelin FAW 912 won 1st place in the Medium Scale Aircraft-Jet or Rocket Propelled category.

Mark Carlisle. Beautifully painted Templar Knight won him a 1st in the Historical Figures-Small category.

Fazz James. Produced this stunning 1:24 ‘Buck Baker’ 1956 Chrysler 300B which won 1st in the Cars Medium-Competition category, the Best Mobeus award as well as the ‘Bill Hamer Automotive Modelling Excellence’ award.

Dan Moore. Incredibly good looking 1:35 Bronco Sdkfz 6/3 ‘Diana’ won 1st in the Vehicles & Equipment-Large category.

Shane Richmond. Klingon Bird of Prey deservedly placed 1st in the hotly contested Sci-fi, Movie, Fantasy-Vehicles & Equipment category.

Ray Thorpe. 1:48 Tamiya Tiger 1 Early secured him 1st in the AFVs, Vehicles & Equipment-Medium category.


SHOW REPORT: THE AUSTRALIAN MODEL EXPO 2014

A life size modeller’s work in progress - a B-17 stripped down to its aluminium skin and disassembled awaiting reconstruction and perhaps flight once more.

Kosta Heristanidis. 28mm Afghan Guerrilla Army won 1st in the Wargaming Armies category.

Patrick Navascues. Built this great looking Tom ‘Mongoose’ McEwen’s dragster which placed 1st in the Cars Large-Including Competition Cars category.

Jason Woollett. Beautifully finished Bedford OSB Recovery Truck placed 1st in the Trucks & Commercial Vehicles over 3 Tonne category.

Graham Davies. Built this amazing Ebony 1927 Ford Model T and it was a well deserved 1st place winner in the Scratchbuilt category.

Callum MacDonald. Great looking RAN Harbour diorama won him a 1st in the Military Dioramas category.



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Airfix 1:24 Typhoon book

HOW TO BUILD THE AIRFIX 1:24 HAWKER TYPHOON MK.IBThe latest addition to this popular series of modelling titles offers the enthusiast plenty of inspirational modelling hints, tips and techniques to enjoy. The complete guide to building the amazing Airfi x 1:24 scale Hawker Typhoon, written by Brett Green of HyperScale and Model Military fame.

This new book features an exhaustive step-by-step guide to construction with modelling contributions by Brett, Marcus Nicholls and Chris Wauchop.

Detailed analysis of the 1:72 Airfi x Typhoon and 1:48 scale kits on the market is also included.

Hundreds of construction photos, reference images, a museum walk around, and how to get the very best from your big Typhoon kit – a must have before you build the model!

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p 29 Typhoon Book 043.indd 8 25/09/2014 17:17

FEATURE ARTICLE: HK MODELS 1:32 DORNIER DO 335B-2 • Kit No. 01E07

PFEIL FILETHE


p 30-43 Dornier 335b 043B.indd 30 26/09/2014 13:36

Aircraft Edition 31

HK Models 1:32 Dornier Do 335B-2 test shot lands at MIM, and James Hatch gets stuck straight into it.

Was there any aircraft as unorthodox and unconventional in appearance as the Dornier Do 335? Of course there was, but the Do 335 was to be a mass-

produced fighter-bomber aircraft that would have entered regular service. What made this aircraft an interesting proposition was its configuration. This was indeed a two-engine design, but of course was of push-pull design. That in itself may make the aircraft sound like a non-starter, but the Do 335 was arguably one of, or THE fastest piston-engine aircraft that ever saw service as the layout eliminated the traditional drag element from a two –engine aircraft.

A NEW MACHINEIt was also highly versatile. Conceived from the outset as a multirole machine, this adaptable design could be used as a straight fighter aircraft, and also as a night-fighter, complete with a second, tandem crew position that gave the Do

335 its distinctive hump back appearance for this specific version. Bombs could be carried in an internal bay, and if you required a heavy-fighter, then this was possible by mounting two Rheinmetall-Borsig MK103 cannon in pods protruding from the wing leading edge. To compensate for the removal of wing fuel tanks, an auxiliary tank could be fitted into the bomb bay. The possibilities seemed quite endless.

The Dornier Do 335 was also a robust and highly manoeuvrable machine, and one that could still cope with a rear engine failure. It was also one of the few aircraft with an ejection seat that saw service in World War Two. If this was to be activated, the rear propeller and upper vertical fin would be ejected by means of explosive bolts, followed by the canopy itself and, with any luck, the pilot! Another unusual feature of the Do 335 was the cruciform tail layout. A downward pointing fin was included which would hopefully negate any rear propeller damage that might result in an awkward take-off or landing.

First flown in 1943, the project itself wasn’t without its problems. Whilst the aircraft was

inherently stable on both the ground and in the air due to the rear engine resting not too far behind the centre of gravity (with the prop being driven by a long, extended shaft), it did suffer from some technical problems which were never to be overcome. The rather substantial looking undercarriage was one Achilles Heel, with a weakness that was to cause numerous accidents. After test flights had been finalised, and the aircraft ordered into general production, no more than 37 of them were finished by the end of the war. Destruction of factories was a serious factor in the lack of finished machines, and also Ernst Heinkel ignoring orders to produce the Do 335, by cancelling his own He 219. After the war, captured examples of the Pfeil were whisked away by the Allies, with the French actively using a number for themselves. Today, only one machine survives and is on display at the NASM, USA.

HIGH HOPESNow and again, there is a subject that is tackled by a model company, and it immediately starts flurries of discussion across the various online modelling forums. Earlier this year, one such buzz was started by the news that HK Models were going to tackle one of the modeller’s veritable Holy Grail subjects. This of course was the muscular and menacing-looking Dornier Do 335 ‘Pfeil’ (Arrow). Until now, the only large scale option for the builder was a vac-form kit, and if you didn’t want that, there was always the 1:48 Tamiya version. As excellent as it is, it’s certainly not going to bang on the doors of the large scale guys and gals.

My build of this model is from a test shot. That needs to be remembered as we progress through this project. As I’m in regular contact with HK, I managed to source the corrected canopy sprue that we’ll see much later on. Some things that you will see me tackle may not necessarily be applicable to the final release. That aside, this was just too tempting not to build. My test shot was packed into a Gloster Meteor box. Yes, the sprues do fit in there, but it’s a tight fit, and the final release will have a box slightly bigger than this, and also a small fret of photo etch parts.

My kit also initially lacked decals and instructions, although I did work from a printed PDF that did show assembly, albeit without part numbers anywhere! Decals arrived late in construction and the option I build is therefore one of the schemes. This mightily impressive model comprises of fourteen plastic sprues and hundreds of parts. It does appear that HK Models have been sponsored to produce as many slide-moulded parts as they can. Again, we’ll look at those as we progress with construction.

IN THE FLESHTypically, work starts in the cockpit, and I have to say that this looks very impressive straight out of box. I can only imagine what the likes of Eduard may do for this release. The cockpit is based around a tub which has a missing

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rear wall. That wall is actually sloped, and is moulded with integral ejection seat rails and other detail. My first job was to remove all of the parts pertaining to the cockpit. Remember, parts numbers don’t matter here, so the plastic is at my mercy. I decided first glue should be directed at the pilot’s ejector seat. HK Models have moulded the armrests in the stowed position (folded back). This looked a little odd to me, and I wanted them in the deployed position. Using my RB Productions razor saw, the arms were sawn from the chair and the mating surfaces cleaned up. They were then reinstated in the new position, using a drop of CA for extra strength.

This ejector seat had bracing frames attached for the pilot to sit his feet on, in case of needing a quick escape. Despite the instructions showing a horizontal foot bar between the frames, it wasn’t on the plastic parts. I used a little Albion Alloys aluminium tube for this. This also very

much reinforces this area. I fitted the headrest and bracket, but decided to leave the cushion until later in the painting stage.

I found the rudder pedals in this kit are almost verging on 1:48 scale, so I decided to replace them with photo etch parts, and to support them on a couple of short lengths of plastic rod. For the pedals, I used some Eduard spares that I had left over from another kit. These would be attached to the cockpit later. There’s not too much assembly needed within the cockpit. A small trim wheel is fitted to the sidewall and a small button/box unit is fitted to the opposing side console. Moulded detail is excellent throughout, with no soft detail. Photographs of the Dornier cockpit seemed to show some sort of lifting handle on the starboard console. I made this from a little plasticard and wire, and then painted it bright Vallejo red.

One area that did concern me was the space to the rear of the instrument panel. On the real

aircraft, you would see the back of the instruments, and their wiring. All my test show supplied was the actual panel, with what looks like an insert for a film or PE detail sheet. My first task was to paint the instrument panel. Colour photos show this as RLM66, the same as the cockpit interior. I decided to follow suit here and do the same and then seal things with a brush coating of Klear. Details were then applied with both Vallejo and Tamiya paints, using a 5x0 brush and a toothpick. At this point, I also assembled the two-part control column, and progressed to paint the entire cockpit in Gunze RLM66. This applies to the forward interior area of the fuselage halves. This was one cockpit that wouldn’t really benefit from any colour modulation techniques, solely due to layout and very little real estate in terms of open space. I would give a little depth to this later, using pastels. After painting the cockpit, it was given a couple of glossy coats of Klear. I prefer to paint small detail after a Klear

The model fits together so beautifully without glue that I just couldn’t resist a quick test fit of the main fuselage parts and internals.

Detail extends all the way through the rear fuselage, and straight on through to the rear propeller bearing housing.

No foot bars were moulded onto my test shot, so I used a little aluminium tube from Albion Alloys. Surprisingly, I cut them to the correct length first time!

I wasn’t a fan of the included foot pedals. They seemed almost 1:48 in scale. I opted to use some spare PE parts from an Eduard set that I had. These were mounted on 1mm ABS rod from E.T. Models.

The RLM66 colour was brought to life with a few Luftwaffe placards from Airscale.

RLM66 was used to paint the remainder of the interior. Things look pretty dark here at the moment.

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Aircraft Edition 33

coat as any accidental excess can be removed with a cocktail stick if you are very quick.

At this point, I painted the detail on the side consoles and internal fuselage wall, using a combination of Vallejo and Gunze/Metallic paints. Anyone who knows will most certainly know that I love the Airscale series of cockpit decals. To this end, I applied the numerous instruments to the instrument panel (punching them out first), and also sprinkled a number of placards and other detail decals over the interior and instrument panel. With all this complete, a final misting of Klear was applied and when dry, Mig Productions Dark Wash was added to the detail, as a pin-wash.

SET THE CONTROLS…..Now to tackle that instrument panel rear area. My first task here was to make a plasticard insert which was the same shape as the recess to the

rear of the IP. After a coat of RLM66 and some Klear to give it a glossy finish, the insert was glued to the rear of the instrument panel. With this cut out, it was then airbrushed with RLM66 and then sealed with Klear. Using the excellent Airscale range of instrument decals, I carefully applied each one to the plasticard, making sure it lined up with the hole in the instrument panel. Once I had painted the various gauge bezels on the front, using Vallejo paints, I fitted the instrument face I had just made. Short lengths of ABS plastic rod from ET Modeller, were now attached to the rear of the panel, to simulate the backs of the instruments themselves. I drilled a small hole into each one and then inserted lengths of lead wire into them to represent the cabling. With all this complete, this area was also airbrushed in RLM66.

One area that needed attention was the switch box on the port fuselage wall. Whilst the

production kit has detail moulded here, the test shot does not. Using an RP Toolz Punch & Die set, I made around 20 small styrene discs that I added to the switch box. This would then be painted black, and Airscale decals used to create the stencil data above the switches.

Thankfully, HK Models don’t mould seatbelts to their kits. I think that approach generally looks awful. They do supply a PE fret with the harness straps, however, my test shot didn’t have those parts, so I opted to use the excellent HGW Late Luftwaffe set. This laser-cut approach with PE buckles is probably the most realistic way to replicate this focal point of the cockpit. I also decided not to use the standard beige set, but the green Orlon belts that started to creep in at the war’s end. If nothing else, it offered a little variety. Once assembled, these were installed with CA and then given a gloss varnish coat before a

I’m a huge fan of the laser-cut HGW seatbelts, so I needed no encouragement to use a set in this build. I opted for the ‘Late’ type that replicate the green Orlon material that was occasionally seen around this time.

If you scrunch up the seat belt material, you can manipulate it easier and make it look far more natural when you position the belts.

As the rear of the instrument panel is easily seen when the model is built, I added short pieces of ABS rod and lead wire to replicate the rear of the instruments themselves. A little time consuming, but well worth the effort.

Using Vallejo paint, thinned with a little water, the interior of the cockpit is now brought vividly to life. It pays to use a small brush and a lot of patience here.

With the cockpit now airbrushed in flat varnish, a little Tamiya Weathering Pastel was carefully brushed to soften the appearance of the larger expanses of RLM66 paint.

With the MK108 cannon added to the forward bulkhead, the instrument panel was also final positioned.

Although you don’t really see much wiring when the model is complete, the engine bay wiring was painted in Vallejo Black, and Mr Metal Color Brass was used for the connectors.

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wash was applied to them. Any excess was then removed with a cotton bud.

PAINT BOXThe entire cockpit was then airbrushed with Gunze acrylic H20 Flat Clear, thinned with Mr Levelling Thinner. This imparts a very slight sheen to the model, without a dull, monotone finish. When dry, Vallejo Sky Grey was dry-brushed over the interior before it was finally assembled. As I wasn’t going to display the fuselage fuel tanks, I left the one that I had connected to the rear of the pilot’s seat bulkhead, unpainted. This also applied to the main fuel tank that would sit in that same chamber.

There’s no denying that this model is seriously detailed. The great news is that you don’t have to wrestle with a ridiculous parts-count to achieve this though. A good example of this is the nose wheel bay. This is basically built as a box (four sides and a floor) with just four compressed gas tanks that fit onto the rearmost bulkhead. If you are a detail freak, then your paintbrush will be very busy here!

I airbrushed the interior walls of the gear well in Gunze H79 RLM02, and then added shade and

light with the colour-modulation technique. A final, thin coat of RLM02 was misted over the parts in order to blend the shades together, followed by a protective coat of Klear. Using a combination of Vallejo paints, thinned with water, and Mr Metal Color 218 Aluminium.219 Brass, the interior detail was brought to life. You will need a very fine brush when working in this area. I made my own mix of blue for the compressed gas tanks and then airbrushed the aluminium straps onto them, and the red identification band. It pays to take your time in this area.

The first real indicator of just how big this model will become is when you plug the rear engine/fuel tank deck onto the part that forms the nose wheel well. There’s no doubt that the Do 335 was certainly a large aircraft. That deck also forms the ceiling of what is a very reasonably detailed bomb bay. Of course, the B-2 variant didn’t carry a bomb, so this bay was used to house an auxiliary fuel tank, making up for the tank space lost in the wings, so they could accommodate the MK103 cannon. My first task was to paint the engine bay and bomb bay parts (including

bulkheads) in RLM02 and colour modulate them as I did with the nose wheel well. To do this, you simply darken the base colour and shade the edges and corners of the part, as well as around raised detail. You follow this by lightening the base colour and misting this over the open and raised areas. Finally, a thin coat of RLM02 is airbrushed over these to make it look more natural to the eye.

OUTSIDE THE WALLSome detail that represented pipework on the bomb bay walls, was moulded ‘flat’, so I added lead wire to these and made them look more 3D. It’s possible these will be changed in the final release. Using masking tape, cleats were added to the pipework. Apart from the main, moulded pipe that was paint-ed in Vallejo Black, the new pipework was hand-brushed with Vallejo Grey Green, with the cleats painted in Mr Metal Color Aluminium.

I did find painting the very fine pipe on the bay ceiling to be very difficult, so I cheated. Here, I used lead wire, fixed with CA. Vallejo Sky Grey was used to paint the plumbing which sits

As this was a test shot, the side console wasn’t yet moulded with switches. I added these using plasticard and my trusty RP Toolz Punch & Die set.

Many bay areas on Luftwaffe machines were painted in RLM02. The Do 335 was no exception. Here, the nose wheel bay gets to sample the solvent.

….applying pastels to accentuate the open and raised areas within the nose bay.

The completed nose wheel bay shows an incredible depth of detail. You really shouldn’t have to add anything else in this area.

Numerous interior parts were painted using the colour modulation technique. Here you see the parts during that process.

For the detail painter, this model is a dream. It really pays to take your time and detail every last wire and pipe in this area. I mostly used Vallejo paint, with a Tamiya homebrew mix used for the compressed gas bottles. A little last paintwork and assembly before…

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Aircraft Edition 35

under the fuel tank rack. HK also moulded some superb hydraulic detail on the forward bomb bay bulkhead, and this was painted in Aluminium. Using Mr Metal Color Brass, the various connectors on the pipework were now painted, and the whole interior area was sealed with Klear. Following this, I applied a pin wash to the various detail areas, using Mig Dark Wash. I also did this in the forward nose wheel well too, and left to thoroughly dry before remove any excess with a cotton bud.

With the main paintwork complete, all interior parts were airbrushed with Gunze H20 Flat Clear. Before I assembled anything, I used Tamiya Weathering Pastels and applied a little light sand pigment to the open areas of both bomb and nose wheel bays. Never use the wand applicator in these sets. They are poor. Instead, use a nice soft, flat brush and gently apply the pigment. I find this really brings everything to life and adds real visual interest.

Assembly time! Both the nose wheel bay and bomb bay were now finally assembled using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, and the cockpit tub was fitted to the upper side of the nose wheel bay. I also

connected the rear bomb bay floor to the forward nose wheel module, using the rather nifty Lego block style connection point. Onto that location also now fits the stubby, but robust wing spar. My test shot varies from the production kit, as I needed to be careful which way round this was fitted due to curvature of the fuselage. The final kit has two different-sized plugs, so problem solved!

The main fuel tank comprises just two parts. I assembled this simply to show the detail supplied in this kit. As I was going to glue the spine, no paint was used here. As I mentioned, the bomb bay of this aircraft was taken over with a compensatory fuel tank. This is again another two-piece assembly and once I had glued it and removed the seams, it was given a coat of Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black, which properly mimics the colour that this fuel ‘bladder’ would have been. Once dry, I masked off the tank and airbrushed the straps in Mr Metal Color Aluminium. A coat of Klear was used to seal everything, prior to a pin wash of Mig Dark Wash. H20 Flat Clear was finally airbrushed over the tank, and the tank seated into the bomb bay.

INTERSTELLAR OVERDRIVE The Do 335 layout was very unusual for a fighter plane. Twin-engine aircraft, by their very nature, are prone to parasitic drag due to the wing mounted nacelle layout. Not the Do 335 though. Both engines were arranged inline, in a push-pull format, and were beautifully enclosed in that fuselage which ran from slender at the front, to quite deep near the tail. Of course, HK Models provide not one, but two fully detailed Daimler-Benz DB603 engines for this release, which may be displayed through open cowls. I opted to open one cowl on each side of my model, so I would need to paint and detail both engines in full.

Unsurprisingly, there are two engine sprues in this release, and a single accessory sprue that contains pipework and engine bearers etc. Both engines themselves are almost identical, apart from the gear reduction housing at the front, and some pipework. The forward engine has a thick pin that protrudes from the reduction housing, and plugs into the cowl radiator area. Pipework on the underside also runs to this same place. Engine construction was very straightforward, and most

‘My build of this model is from a test shot. That needs to be remembered as

we progress through this project.’

Test fitting the forward bulkhead and instrument panel highlights more click-fit perfection.

Gun breeches are added to the upper weapons bay, with these and the associated hardware being painted in Dark Iron, and then buffed to a sheen.

The completed module. Here you see the cockpit now sat atop the nose wheel bay.

RLM02 painting continues in the aircraft’s bomb bay. Again, colour modulation was used to highlight and contrast the various moulded elements.

Bulkhead detail painting was done with Mr Metal Color Brass and Aluminum, and a pin wash of Mig Dark Wash was then applied.

Lead wire was used to add the various lengths of plumbing in the bomb bay. I followed the lines of the flat moulded detail. Cleats were added using masking tape.

Vallejo and Aluminium paint was used to detail most of the additional work, with Brass used for various connectors. When complete, pastels were used to add light to the final matt finish parts.

Here you can see the assembled bomb bay, with this module now connected to the forward cockpit/nose wheel section. I have also added the wing spar part too.

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Both fuel tanks are very simple to build, but offer the modeller a lot of detail.

Despite not building the model so you will see the fuel tanks for the purpose of this build, I have added them so you can see how things will generally look in this area. After painting the bomb bay fuel tank in Rubber Black, it was masked

and then the securing strips airbrushed with Mr Metal Color Aluminium.

The finished result. Simple, but effective.

As my kit had no PE parts, I used a small piece of Eduard’s mesh on the face of the rear engine intake area. The rear intake was then assembled and connected to

the rearmost fuselage bulkhead.RLM02 was used to paint the whole assembly. As you really can’t see much in this area when complete, I didn’t bother with any shading or weathering.

Not one, but TWO engines! The only real difference between the base units is that the forward one was filled with dust-shot lead, so as to prevent this model being a tail-sitter.

Both engines are now basically complete. The only difference that you can see is that the engine furthest from camera has a protrusion on the gear-reduction housing. This is to fit the nose cowl ring and radiator.

Both engines are given a base coat of Tamiya Semi Gloss Black, before being sealed with Klear to protect the paintwork.

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Aircraft Edition 37

things snapped cleanly into place without any glue, but of course, it was added! Being a test shot, I never received the cast nose weights, as they simply weren’t available. Instead I opted to fill my forward engine with lead shot. This stuff, better known as ‘dust shot’ is very fine, and I poured this into the top of the engine and then sealed it in by adding the upper lid.

With the engines built, they were given a good, dense coat of Tamiya X-18 Semi Gloss Black, and then a protective coat of Klear. I find Tamiya paints a little fragile without something to seal it, and of course, I like to apply a gloss coat before I paint details. Detail painting was done with Mr Metal Color paints, and the engine bearers were painted in RLM02, as was pretty much standard at that time. With the engines themselves complete, they were given a light coat of Klear, and a pin wash of Mig Dark Wash. H20 Flat Clear was then very finely misted over the engines before they were dry-brushed with Vallejo Sky Grey. The side oil tanks were then airbrushed in Aluminium, sealed with Klear, placard decals applied, and then finally a pin wash of Mig Dark Wash was added. I had a little trouble mounting these to the engines, as the connecting pins weren’t on this test shot. The engine bearers were given a coat of Klear also, before a wash was applied, and they were fitted to the engines.

Whilst I couldn’t yet fit the nose engine, I did need to fit the rear one to the engine bay deck. With the engine in situ, the various pieces of plumbing were added, connecting the engine to both the deck and the rear bulkhead. I airbrushed the rear engine prop shaft transmission rod in Alclad Magnesium, and shaded it with Alclad Airframe Aluminium. This was also then sealed with Klear before being given a dark pin wash. The Do 335 has a rear under-fuselage intake, rather like the P-51 Mustang, and now this was also assembled. I opted to use some Eduard photo etch mesh on one of the grilles. The kit, however, will come with a PE part of its own. These were painted in RLM02 and given no further treatment as you can barely see anything in here when this section is installed.

The time had come to seal the interior sections in between those large fuselage halves. This went without any trouble whatsoever. One side of the interior module has locating pins that seat into the fuselage. Once installed and lined up, the other side just pops on with no problem. I still took my time here, ensuring all glued joints were cured before I progressed. You also need to install the rear prop shaft at this point, as it runs through several bulkheads and does actually protrude at the rear. Before I could close the fuse, I wanted to add a little more lead shot into the cavity in front of the cockpit/behind the engine bulkhead. Firstly, I sealed up the outside of the bulkhead with Blu-Tack, around the protruding MK108 nose cannon, and then I poured more lead shot into here. Closing the fuselage was a breeze. This was done in stages, using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. When fully cured, any seams were removed with sanding sticks and sponges. I had to reinstate a little scribed/rivet detail on the underside of the intake scoop. With the nose of the model pointing upwards, I removed the Blu-Tack seal from around the cannon, and dribbled a little epoxy in there, and left it to set.

The whole model was about to take on more of its characteristic shape now as I attached the single piece spine. Care was taken here, and gluing done in stages. It actually fit superbly, with

Oil tanks and engine bearers are now fitted to the engines, as well as other small sections of pipework.

The first engine to be installed to the Do 335 is the rear engine, which is then also plumbed-in with additional lengths of pipe.

A view of the engine, alongside the rest of the interior of this model. You get a lot of model and detail for your money.

Having fit the port side fuselage, I sealed the gap around the protruding cannon, and then proceeded to fill the forward chamber with lead-shot. You will get two cast weights in the production kit. Epoxy was used to seal the lead in, and also behind the Blu-Tak, once it had been removed.

Both fuselage sides are now fitted. Overall, this was a very easy task, with no problems encountered. Just glue section by section to ensure everything lines up.

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only a small gap in one area at the rear. I put this down to not quite aligning things properly at the tail section. With the spine now located, it was time to give the Pfeil its nose. Before I decided to fit this, the engine cowl ring parts had their interior and radiator parts painted and then assembled before progressing further. I decided to use the flap set which was moulding in the open position. The engine glued in perfectly. There are three central locating points which are quote heavy duty, and the more petite mounting points for the engine bearers. With the weight here being at the forefront of my mind, I decided to leave the nose to cure overnight. This was my first visual on just how large this model really was.

To say this model has been thoughtfully designed, and with clever engineering, is something of an understatement. The wings are another perfect of example of this. To accommodate the stubby fuselage wing spar, the first thing I need to do here is to fit a locating box into the upper panel of each wing. These fit with a squeak…..

it really is that perfect, and the numerous stand offs/pins place the box into the optimum position without you needing to test fit to the fuselage. With the wheel bays constructed, I spray these with RLM02, and again modulate the colour here as I did in the nose wheel and bomb bays. A little detail in these areas needs a splash of Mr Metal Color Aluminium, and after a coat of Klear, a dark pin wash is added to all raised detail.

At this stage I also painted the various undercarriage parts after partially assembling them. For this I used RLM02, with Metal Color Aluminium for the compression strut and hydraulic cylinder. Again, a dark wash was used to highlight the detail here. Once everything had been given a coat of Flat Clear, Tamiya Weathering Pastels were again used to accentuate the raised and open areas of both the undercarriage and wheel bays. I also took the opportunity to paint, modulate and apply pastel to the remaining parts which required this, such as the inside of the wheel bay doors and bomb bay doors. Alclad Airframe Aluminium was used to

paint to the interior of the engine bay cowls. Some careful shading was lightly applied using Tamiya Smoke, with all paintwork being sealed with Klear.

HK Models has designed this kit so there are no join lines to eradicate along the leading edge of the wing. Yes, there is a faint mould seam line, but the actual forward connecting point of the wing lies to the rear of the underside first panel line. Genius! Of course, there are no rear joints to remove because that’s where the landing flap and aileron sit. What about the wing tip, I hear you ask. No joins there either, as this part is entirely slide moulded. This kit provides an extended wingtip for the M13 version, but I’m using the shorter, M14 type. I had to thin the protruding tab at the end of the wing a little and then the tip fit perfectly all the way around, with zero gap or putty needed.

THE GUNNER’S DREAMNow those wing leading edge inserts could have caused all sorts of problems if they weren’t properly designed, but they fit beautifully after

Before I could fit the forward engine, I needed to paint the interior of the cowl, cowl flap area and also the radiator.

A simple click fit installed the owl ring to the radiator. The forward engine was now installed and left to thoroughly dry.

Things really start to take shape when the upper spine and both rudders are installed. Again, you can see how good the fit of this model really is.

The main gear wheel bays don’t require much construction, and here you also see the wing-spar boxes in situ. These are a push-click fit.

The main gear wheel bays don’t require much construction, and here you also see the wing-spar boxes in situ. These are a push-click fit.

In order to maximise mould use, HL designed the leading edge of the model, complete with cannon housings, as separate parts.

Wheel bays are colour modulated using RLM 02…… ….as are the interior of the various bay doors and undercarriage parts.

Mig Dark Wash was used here due to its depth of colour.

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about 30 seconds of fettling with a sanding stick. Being a test shot, there was a small amount of plastic I needed to remove from a corner. This was just a result of the tool not being ‘absolute’. Once done, the inserts fit exactly, with all joints being hidden as panel lines. Did I say how much I love this kit? Those inserts are also slide moulded, to incorporate those massive pods to house the MK103 cannon. Before I added those, I installed the cannon within them. You don’t see these at all when assembled, so I opted to paint the cannon barrels after the main painting stage.

As the painting stage approached, I added various small parts such as the underside intake scoop, upper forward engine cowl and starboard cowl, and also the port side rear engine cowl. Both upper and lower rudders and elevators were now assembled. In the spirit of the slide-moulding fest that this model is, the elevators were moulded as single piece, hollow parts, as were the ailerons and landing flaps. These are then capped with a forward, curved strip. Again, no

glue seams to remove. Remarkable. These new assemblies were now fitted to the model. You’ll notice I haven’t actually glued on the wings. Nor will I. These plug with 100% positivity to the fuselage. There are no gaps to fill and the fit is totally secure. I opted to apply the pre-shading to the model without these attached, as it surely makes things easier to handle.

With all the smaller parts fitted to the model, the canopy was attached and masked off, and all orifices filled with a combination of masking tape, and soft grey foam from Eduard’s resin releases. As I was to use the revised canopy with integral blisters, the redundant test part was tacked into place with Micro Crystal Clear. This would simply protect the interior during the painting phase. No primer here at all. Instead I spray Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black over all panel lines and key structural joints. Before I forget, now is the time to spray RLM66 over the canopy areas, so the interior frame colour will match the cockpit.

GREEN IS THE COLOURAs I had no instructions or scheme sheet, the camouflage pattern was referenced online, and I based my own layout on the excellent 1:48 model built by Chris Wauchop about 10 years ago. This is to be seen on Hyperscale. There is also some debate as to exactly what colours were used on the Do 335 camouflage, be it RLM70/71, or perhaps RLM81/82, RLM81/83, or even RLM82/83. The first set of colours can be totally discredited, and information that had been researched by a Dornier employee seems to categorically show that that the colours were RLM81 and RLM82, with an underside of RLM76. The Gunze shades do seem to pretty much confirm this when you look at the restored example at the NASM.

My first job is to apply Gunze H417 RLM76 to the underside areas. I thin this 50:50 with Mr Levelling Thinner and ensure I apply this evenly. Towards the end of spraying, I thin this further and concentrate on making sure that the pre-shade starts to look more organic, and less prescribed.

about 30 seconds of fettling with a sanding stick. Being a test shot, there was a small amount of plastic I needed to remove from a corner. This was just a result of the tool not being ‘absolute’.

glue seams to remove. Remarkable. These new assemblies were now fitted to the model. You’ll notice I haven’t actually glued on the wings. Nor will I. These plug with 100% positivity to the

GREEN IS THE COLOURAs I had no instructions or scheme sheet, the camouflage pattern was referenced online, and I based my own layout on the excellent 1:48 model

A final pass with Tamiya Weathering Pastels, and the gear bays now come to life.

Many things on this model are click fit, including the superbly fitting stabilisers and elevators. The tip part is attached once the elevator is in place.

Clever use of slide mould technology means that there won’t be any pesky seams to remove. Just add the leading edge strip, and you’re ready to go!

Despite the muzzle being moulded ‘open’, the other holes on this part needed opening out. I used a 1mm drill bit.

I wanted to give the interior of the engine bay doors a slightly different look, so for this I used a combination of Alclad Airframe Aluminium and Jet Exhaust. Having no instructions meant that sorting the

exhausts into their respective place took some hours. Here they are ready to receive their base coat.

p 30-43 Dornier 335b 043B.indd 39 26/09/2014 13:37



It must blend subtly into the surrounding paint, and at the same time, not look even. It’s all a matter of practice, but I find that scribbling the last application in a random manner does give a very reasonable result.

I used a combination of masking tape and thinly rolled Blu-Tack to mask off the lower surfaces of the model. Using a medium pencil, I gently marked the rough positions of the camouflage demarcation, and then proceeded to apply the lighter colour first. In this case, it was Gunze H422 RLM82. This was applied again so that just the correct level of pre-shade was still visible, adjusting the finish with misted coats at the end of this stage. Once dry, masking tape was used to mask off the hard-edged scheme, with Blu-Tack used for upper and lower surface demarcation. Gunze H421 RLM81 was then used to complete the basic scheme. During the main painting phase, I took pains to ensure that all separate engine panels, bay doors etc. were all completed in the correct scheme colours. I hate finishing a scheme, only to find I need to fire the airbrush up again and spray more scheme colours that I missed. It was here that I also airbrushed the starboard side front engine panel in Alclad Airframe Aluminium. This was done to replicate some of the field-repairs you see in some late war Luftwaffe photos. Whilst not absolutely authentic to the machine I was later to model, I allowed myself this little bit of artistic licence. A mask made from a punched post-it note was used to protect the cannon fairings whilst I airbrushed the protruding barrels in Gunze 214 Dark Iron. When dry, this was buffed to a metallic sheen. As an aside note here, before I added the muzzles to the barrels, I opened up the various holes in the side of them with a 1mm micro drill bit. This adds quite a lot to the overall appearance.

Whilst waiting for paint to dry, I assembled the prop/spinner sections. Normally, you would need to remember that you have a pusher prop here, and not to mix them up, but HK have designed this so you really can’t mix and match the prop/spinner parts. Once assembled, Gunze H65 RLM70 Black Green was used airbrush everything on show. Now, Klear was used to spray the entire airframe and the other smaller, schemed parts.

SHEEPI was planning to use masks on this model, and perhaps go with something a little unusual, but as the Klear was literally drying, the postman delivered a production standard Do 335 directly from HKM. Inside was not one, but TWO decal sheets! That was fortuitous. HK are now using Cartograf to produce their decals, and as a result, these are far nicer than sets we’ve seen in previous releases. A full set of stencils is also provided. It was now I more of less decided to follow the flock and apply a very well-trodden scheme instead. To apply the decals, I used Mr Mark Setter. Rivet detail and some panel lines are very refined, so I had to ensure the decals properly conformed. I needn’t have had any worries in that respect, as they behaved beautifully. Whilst HKM provided the underside decals in parts so as to make the codes easier around the wheel bays, the same can’t be said for the rear fuselage codes and crosses. These had to be carefully measured against the separate engine panels and fuselage, and cut accordingly. It was time-consuming and a little frustrating, but it worked.

The decals were left overnight to properly

HK MODELS 1:32 DORNIER DO 335B-2 • Kit No. 01E07

It must blend subtly into the surrounding paint,

matter of practice, but I find that scribbling the last application in a random manner does give a

surfaces of the model. Using a medium pencil,

camouflage demarcation, and then proceeded to apply the lighter colour first. In this case, it was

so that just the correct level of pre-shade was still visible, adjusting the finish with misted coats at

with Blu-Tack used for upper and lower surface demarcation. Gunze H421 RLM81 was then used to complete the basic scheme. During the main

Wing assembly is straightforward. These are seriously solid when built.

The landing flaps are set to be slightly dropped. Here you can see the main gear bays, sans undercarriage.

After a coat of Airframe Aluminium, a lightly misted coat of Tamiya Hull Red is applied.

The Do 335’s cruciform tail is clearly seen here. Fit is excellent. The small sliver of plasticard is stopping the elevator drooping while I ensured the tail angles were correct. As I was going to use the production kit main hood, only the forward

windscreen was permanently secured, then masked before spraying. The test shot hood was then temporarily tacked into place with Crystal Clear.

Almost forgot! After masking the surrounding area, the wing leading edge light was airbrushed in Airframe Aluminium.

A combination of soft grey foam and masking tape was used to protect the pre-painted areas from the next stages.

p 30-43 Dornier 335b 043B.indd 40 26/09/2014 13:40

Aircraft Edition 41

MODELSPEC

HK Models 1:32 Dornier Do 335B-2. Kit No. 01E07 (test shot)

Accessories Used:

Airscale Placard decalsAirscale Luftwaffe Instrument decalsHGW Late War Luftwaffe Seatbelt (Green)

Tools & Modelling Products Used:

Swann Morton Scalpel with blades 11 & 15Iwata HP-C Plus AirbrushRB Productions Razor SawRB Productions Rivet-RTesa Masking TapeMicro Drill SetLindstrom Electronics Side CuttersSix Inch Steel RuleWilder modelling TweezersTamiya Extra Thin CementScotch CAMr Mark SetterMicro Kristal KlearLead wire, various thicknessesEvergreen plasticardAlbion Alloys stick sandersMDC sponge sanders


Mr Metal Color 218 Aluminium, 219 Brass, 214 Dark IronGunze H12 Flat Black, H343 Soot, H11 Flat White H20 Flat Clear, H417 RLM76, H421 RLM81, H422 RLM82, H65 RLM70Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black, XF-52 Flat Earth, XF-85 Rubber Black, X-19 Smoke, XF-8 Hull RedMr Levelling ThinnerAlclad Airframe Aluminium, MagnesiumVallejo Black, Yellow, Red, Brown, Sky GreyMig Dark WashJohnson’s KlearTamiya Weathering PastelsPrismacolour silver pencilUschi van der Roste Dark Iron pigmentAK-Interactive Dark Brown Wash (AK045)Mig Productions Dark Wash

References Used:

Camouflage of the Do 335: A Critical Re-evaluation, by Michael Ullmann (Hyperscale)Dornier 335, 435, 635 by Manfred GriehlDornier Do 335 ‘Pfeil’, Schiffer Military History, by Heinz J. Nowarra(ed. note – and inspiration from Pink Floyd!)

Superb detail; excellent surface textures; good fit.

Nothing worth mentioning! RATING: 9.5 out of 10

Thanks to HK Models for the test shot sample

HK Models 1:32 Dornier Do 335B-2. Kit No. 01E07 (test shot)

Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black was now airbrushed around the various panel lines, corners, and main raised detail.

RLM76 is the first colour to be applied. The first coats are light, and thinned 50:50. Later coats are much thinner and allow for control of the final visual effect.

I used a pencil to lightly mark the camouflage areas, then free-handed RLM82 into the appropriate place. Care is again taken to leave the correct amount of pre-shade still showing.

This particular Luftwaffe camouflage is hard-edged, so for this, masking tape was applied directly to the model’s surface.

I wanted to add a little something unusual to an otherwise austere scheme. Alclad Airframe Aluminium was airbrushed onto one of the engine cowls, to represent a later, replaced part.

The only tricky area to decal was the rear engine cover. A sharp scalpel was needed to carefully dissect the decals, and of course, precise measurement was required.

p 30-43 Dornier 335b 043B.indd 41 26/09/2014 13:40



conform, and the next day, I sealed them with Klear before later applying a panel line wash of AK-Interactive’s Dark Brown Wash for Green Vehicles (AK045). This colour was less stark than the Mig Dark Brown wash that I normally use. I still wanted to retain the austere aspect of the scheme carried by this bird, and not break it up with anything too harsh. The AK wash was perfect, and was applied on both upper and lower sides. I also gave a semi-liberal coat to the centre of panels and not just panel lines. When dry, the excess was removed with cotton buds, and the wash on the panel areas acted as a sort of filter, creating a much more pleasing appearance to the two colours used. The wash also randomly stained the rivets too, creating another subtle change in the overall appearance.

I added a little weathering to the underside of the model and the various doors, using heavily thinned Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth. I used a fairly low pressure here too, allowing for more overall control. On the upper surfaces, I used a fairly well diluted Tamiya X-19 Smoke, accentuating key panels slightly, and adding some shadows.

One weak part of the kit are the moulded, solid barrels for the forward cowl guns. These were replaced with Albion Alloys aluminium tubing, and then slid through the cowl and into

the weapons chamber. There’s no need to worry about the strength

of the undercarriage, even on this heavy model. These were now located into their very tight sockets and a drip of Tamiya cement allowed to wick around the connection. All undercarriage doors were now fitted. For the wheels, I used Tamiya XF-85 Rubber Black. Using a compass cutter to make my own masks, I masked off the wheel, leaving only the hubs exposed. Instead of airbrushing a different colour, I opted to use the paint as a base for applying some Uschi van der Rosten Dark Iron metallic pigment. This gave an excellent appearance, and applying it with a cotton bud created areas of shine and shade. With a little Vallejo red paint, I brushed the tyre-movement marks on the junction between tyre and hub. The wheels were then attached to the undercarriage.

My favourite overall varnish if Gunze H20 Flat Clear. Thinned with Levelling Thinner, it gives an excellent finish to the whole model, with a very slight sheen being imparted. It’s now that the panel shading etc. can properly be seen. If you’ve never tried a Prismacolor silver pencil for your chipping effects, you really should. They are excellent. I use the pencil to create a little weathering in key areas, such as pilot walkway,

access plates, fasteners, and a little around the corners of some removable sections such as engine panels etc. I also create a faint, random fleck over the airframe, which resembles small scratches.

THE LAST FEW BRICKSBefore final assembly of the model, I need to add the exhaust staining. For this, I use a base of Tamiya XF-52 Flat Earth, heavily thinned, and then I continue with Gunze H343 Soot. I extend this to the edges of the brown area, without totally eliminating it. There aren’t too many examples of how Do 335 exhaust stains actually looked, so I went mostly with my own imagination.

Final assembly is simply plugging the wings to the fuselage and adding the engine panels in their open position. These are held up with metal poles, which I painted in Gunze 218 Aluminium. The pitot and radio loop were airbrushed in RLM81. For the loop itself, I used copper wire, fastened to the base of the kit part. The part itself was short-shot and required this simple fix.

My sincere thanks to HK Models for the test shot, and also to Arrow Wolf Models for the seatbelts. Thanks also to Uschi van der Rosten for sending the metal pigments out for evaluation. •

conform, and the next day, I sealed them with conform, and the next day, I sealed them with Klear before later applying a panel line wash Klear before later applying a panel line wash of AK-Interactive’s Dark Brown Wash for Green of AK-Interactive’s Dark Brown Wash for Green

the weapons chamber. There’s no need to worry about the strength

of the undercarriage, even on this heavy model.

access plates, fasteners, and a little around the corners of some removable sections such as engine panels etc. I also create a faint, random

A Post-It note was used to mask the cannon pod, allowing for safe airbrushing of the barrel with Dark Iron. This was then buffed to a metallic shine.

As well as adding wash to the panel lines, it was also applied randomly to the panel areas too. The aim here is to partially stain the remainder of detail, and create a filtered effect on the scheme. Excess was removed with a cotton bud.

To create subtle chipping effects that you can gradually build up, a silver Prismacolor pencil is a perfect solution.

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Aircraft Edition 43

‘The Dornier Do 335 was also a robust and highly manoeuvrable machine, and one that could still cope with a rear engine failure.’

Uschi van der Rosten Dark pigment was applied over the Rubber Black paint that I applied to the tyre hub areas. This gives a nice, subtle shine to the hubs.

I wanted more realism for the 335’s upper gun deck barrels. I replaced the kit parts with aluminium tubing from Albion Alloys.

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FEATURE ARTICLE: KITTY HAWK 1:48 MIG-25PD ‘FOXBAT’. • Kit No. 80119


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Aircraft Edition 45

SPEED DEMONKamil Feliks Sztarbala wrestles with the new Kitty Hawk 1:48 scale MiG-25PD ‘Foxbat’.

W ithout doubt, the MiG-25 deserves to be hailed as one of the symbols of the Cold War. Therefore, it’s hard to understand why the simplified Foxbat kit from Revell

was the only game in town in 1:48 scale, for almost 40 years. However, this had changed in the autumn of 2013, when Kitty Hawk released the long awaited model of this famous Soviet interceptor. Did the Chinese designers rise to the challenge?

FIRST LOOKThe large box is tightly packed with grey plastic sprues. Interestingly, even though the size of rear fuselage halves may be a hint, you will certainly be surprised how huge the finished kit actually is.

On the face of it, the kit looked like it should have been a pleasure to build. Unfortunately, it wasn’t. •




At first sight, the parts look promising. The surface detail is crisp and rich. The exhaust nozzles also make a good first impression.

• Kit No. 80119

The photo-etched fret basically includes all of what you would expect from a ‘Zoom’ sheet of the type which Eduard would release. Worth noting is that since the main landing gear legs are rather fragile, considering the weight of the completed kit, the manufacturer provides us with two steel rods which will reinforce the entire sub-assembly. The latter are correctly bent, and supplied in two different colours, so as to prevent any mistakes during construction. Another welcome addition is a large ball bearing intended for weighting down the kit nose. If we forget about this, our ‘Foxbat’ will certainly end up being a tail-sitter.

ASSEMBLY

good first impression.

ASSEMBLY

Construction began with the cockpit. I decided to improve it with Quickboost’s resin ejection seat and a pilot figure. Although the latter was said to be designed for the Kitty Hawk kit, it required quite a lot of adjustment to make it fit correctly.

The assembled cockpit was mounted within the fuselage unit, together with the nose wheel bay. These went together without any problems.

The section which attaches to the front of the cockpit tub, is the one which needs to carry the ballast. As I was worried that the ball bearing would eventually fall out if I simply glued it with C.A. adhesive, I fixed it within a rack, made from a piece of kit sprue and lengths of vinyl masking tape.

I then focused on the rear part of the fuselage. A number of clamps had to be used to fit the main landing gear bays properly.

To attach the air brake in the closed position, I had to fill the resulting gaps with thin strips, cut from 0.25 mm styrene sheet.

I also drilled the mounting hole for starboard horizontal stabilizer, as this had been blocked up in my kit. I’m not sure whether this defect was accidentally created during the moulding of my specific kit, or whether it is a common issue of all ‘Foxbat’ kits from Kitty Hawk; possibly caused by bad design of the mould.

To put the fuselage halves together, I firstly had to deal with the engines. Sadly, they’re a rather weak point of this model. Although they look very nice at first glance, they aren’t free of errors, the biggest being that the exhaust nozzles are not suitable for the MiG-25 variants depicted by this kit. Regardless of whether we want to correct all of the designer’s mistakes or not, first we have to fit the exhaust tubes to the fuselage. This required removing small wedges of plastic from their ends.


Aircraft Edition 47

The exhaust tubes were also way too long, so I reduced their size by nearly half.

This forced me to slightly modify the afterburner rings and engine turbine blades, adjusting them to the reworked exhaust tubes and fuselage interior. The engine turbine blades and inner surfaces of the exhaust tube were

sprayed with Mr.Metal Color MC214 Dark Iron…

…whilst the afterburner rings were given a layer of Mr.Color C66 Bright Green, mixed with a little MC214 Dark Iron.

Next, I airbrushed a mist of Mr.Color C321 Light Brown over the interior of the exhaust tubes, in order to reproduce their distinctive discolouration.

To emphasize the construction and shape of the inner sides of the exhaust tubes, I applied AK-Interactive AK045 ‘Dark Brown Wash’, and later dry brushed the edges with Vallejo 70.883 Silvergrey.

Since the enamel wash would damage the surface which was painted with metalizer, the engine turbine blades were washed with waterbased Lifecolor Tensocrom TSC208 Smoke.

The nozzles also required some surgery. I began by cutting off parts of the inner nozzle petals.

Afterwards, each one was trimmed and glued together. The wedge which I had made from a piece of styrene sheet, visible on the photo, turned out to be redundant. I later removed it.

The outer nozzle petals had to be assembled prior to any adjustment being made, as this area had been divided into a number of parts by the kit’s designers.

I then reduced their length, using a rotary tool.




To ensure that the nozzle petals would fit the exhaust tubes correctly, I slightly modified their connecting point. Once I’d attached the rings which I made from 1 mm tin wire, to the

ends of exhaust tubes, the nozzles were ready for further assembly.

The large rear fuselage halves had rather thin walls, and were slightly warped. Therefore, I glued a few strips of styrene sheet into the lower half, which would make alignment and connection of both of sides easier.

Despite this, I had to use clamps, physical force and a lot C.A. adhesive to complete the rear fuselage. The C.A. glue was also employed as putty.

The modification of the nozzles made it necessary to correct the shape of the fairing for the parachute housing. I used Magic Sculp two-part epoxy putty for this purpose.

The biggest number of errors in this kit centred around the air intakes. According to Kitty Hawk, the variable intake ramp should work as a protective intake cover, as with the MiG-29 and a few other Soviet aircraft. This is not actually true. The kit designers forgot about reproducing the intake trunking too. My first step on the road to dealing with these issues was to correct the profile of the front parts of the intakes. For this, I used accurately cut pieces of 0.5 mm styrene sheet.

Next, I put the intakes together, and dry-fitted them to the forward fuselage. The instructions suggested to glue the intakes to the latter…

…but it turned out that it was more convenient to attach them to the rear fuselage. The entire process required using only a little filler, and a few minor adjustments with a file.

The resulting large gaps between the forward fuselage unit and the intakes were easy to deal with. I only had to glue a few styrene strips to each side of the forward fuselage, and sand them to the proper thickness.

The small gap on the spine was also filled with a thin piece of styrene sheet.


Aircraft Edition 49

As I had changed the width of the intakes, I had to adapt the intake ramp parts accordingly.

‘On the face of it, the kit looked like it should have been a pleasure to build. Unfortunately, it wasn’t.’

As I had changed the width of the intakes, I had

Next, I glued them in accordance with the reference photos, ignoring the incorrect assembly guide…

…and produced the final shape of the front parts of the inner intake roofs, using pieces of 0.25 mm styrene sheet.

To hide the lack of intake trunking, I had to scratch build the FOD covers. These were built from pieces of 1 mm styrene sheet, lengths of profile strip, and brass wire.

The wing assembly also didn’t go very smoothly, due to rather strange breakdown of parts. What’s even worse, the separate wingtips were of a different thickness to the main wing section. Firstly, I glued them together and filled all the gaps with plenty of C.A. adhesive.

The surface around the joint area was thinned with coarse sandpaper and smoothed with polishing sponges. During this process I progressively switched to higher grade grits, beginning with 80 and finishing with 220.

Afterwards, I had to recreate the surface detail. To smooth the edges of rescribed panel lines and dissolve the remaining plastic dust, I ‘painted’ them with a little Tamiya Extra Thin glue.

The rivet lines were rescribed with the Rivet-R tool from RB Productions.

I also improved the simplified aileron actuators…




…shortened the fences which were slightly too long…

…and removed the redundant bulges from the both sides of the starboard fin bases.

Construction of the fins was almost trouble-free, although the rather average part fit resulted in wide gaps Unfortunately, once I’d attached the fins and fin root fillets, wide gaps still existed at both joints.

I decided to fill the gaps with Magic Sculp. I formed a few rolls of the putty, and embedded them into the gaps, using a metal spatula.

Before it cured, I’d removed the redundant putty with a cotton bud, dampened with water.

The wiring and hydraulic lines on the landing gear legs were reproduced with lengths of tin wire of various thicknesses.

The huge main wheels are another distinctive feature of the MiG-25. As you may expect, the Kitty Hawk designers designed these badly too, providing us with tires with voids on the sides, instead of recreating the characteristic raised radial ribs on the sidewalls. To correct this, I glued lengths of 0.2 mm tin wire into the voids.

Since the pitot tube supplied with the kit was too thick, and suitable only for the early MiG-25P, I scratch built its replacement from Griffon Model’s brass tubing.

Meanwhile, I also completed the external stores and other sub-assemblies. The kit was ready to receive some paint.


Aircraft Edition 51

PAINTING

Firstly, I had to deal with the cockpit. I began by spraying an even layer of Mr.Color C72 Intermediate Blue. Next, I airbrushed a mist of heavily diluted Mr.Hobby H41 Pale Green in such way that the previously applied blue colour still showed through it, especially in the recesses and corners. The details were brought out by applying a wash of AK-Interactive AK071 ‘Blue Filter for Panzer Grey’. To finish the instrument dials, I applied dense Van Dyke’s Brown oil paint over the relevant panels, and removed the excess with a paper towel.

I then mounted the ejection seat with pilot and other remaining details, which had been separately painted.

Of course, I didn’t forget to paint the inner side frames of the canopy, which would be clearly visible after closing the cockpit.

Once I’d masked off the clear parts, I primed the kit with Mr.Color C8 Silver. My ainting style requires quite complex pre-shading and pre-lighting. Panel lines and chosen detail demarcation were darkened with heavily diluted Tamiya XF-63 German Grey, whilst white paint was mostly airbushed along the rivet lines.

Some chosen areas received a transparent layer of Zinc Chromate Yellow from Mr.Color range. This worked as the base for the discolouration that I will recreate during the next stages.

The afterburner area, and a large adjacent area on the underside of the rear fuselage, should wear a natural metal finish. I advise you to check some reference photos before painting this, because the scheme included in the kit is wrong in this respect. To alter these surfaces, I applied a filter made from heavily diluted Mr.Color C8 Silver. The final touch was to apply Chrome Polishing Powder from Uschi van der Rosten.

Next, I masked off the NMF surfaces, and finished the pre-shading stage by emphasizing some chosen areas with Mr.Hobby H94 Clear Green and Tamiya X-23 Clear Blue, both heavily diluted. I also added some streaks which were mostly applied in accordance with the direction of the airflow. The discolouration effect of the base camouflage colour was achieved by airbrushing transparent layers of Mr.Color C334 Barley Grey and C69 Off White. I sprayed irregular, meandering lines and small patches of both paints, subsequently switching from one to another.

I then painted the landing gear bays, stripes on the fin edges and anti-glare panel, using Tamiya tape for masking the adjacent areas. Worth noting is that both the fin stripes and anti-glare panel should be given a dark gray colour, although the instructions suggest painting them green. The landing gear bays were gray on the real aircraft.

The decals required a lot of Microscale setting solution, and a few hours to conform to the recesses of the model surface.

To accentuate the details and darken the panel lines of the camouflaged areas, I applied a wash of AK071 ‘Blue Filter for Panzer Grey’…




…whilst the NMF surfaces were washed with Van Dyke Brown oil paint. The FOD covers were painted red, given a wash, and mounted within the air intakes.

Afterwards, I focused on the exhaust nozzles. My first step was to prime them black. Next, I airbrushed a mist of heavily diluted green paint over the inner nozzle petals. The outer petals were rubbed with Steel Polishing Powder from Uschi van der Rosten. This allowed me to attach them to the exhaust tubes.

The tyres were painted with Lifecolor UA733 Tire Black. I then reproduced some subtle scratches and damage of the paint layer on the edges of chosen panels and hatches with a fine brush.

ADDITIONAL WEATHERING AND FINISHING TOUCHES

Far Left: The overall dirt applied to the whole airframe was recreated by airbrushing mists of heavily diluted AK082 ‘Engine Grime’ and AK074 ‘Rainmarks for NATO Tanks’ enamels. The excess enamel was removed, or distributed by rolling a cotton bud, slightly dampened with white spirit, over the surface. To add more volume to the effect, I sprayed another mist of AK082 ‘Engine Grime’ over chosen areas. Next, I reproduced the vertical streaks on the fuselage sides, using AK093 ‘Interior Wash’ and a long bristle brush.

Left: The rich staining on the underside of the rear fuselage was developed quite spontaneously. I progressively applied AK084 ‘Engine Oil’, AK045 ‘Dark Brown Wash’ and AK2039 ‘Kerosene Leaks’ over surfaces that were dry, or previously dampened with white spirit, and then formed the shape of the stains with a brush. Once the enamels had dried, I removed their excess from some chosen areas with a cotton bud, dampened with white spirit.

Far Left: Additional stains and streaks were painted with a very fine brush with long bristles. For this purpose, I mixed AK025 ‘Fuel Stains’ with AK075 ‘Wash for NATO vehicles’ and AK045 ‘Dark Brown Wash’ in different ratios.

Left: Tamiya Weathering Sticks, mixed with a little water, were used to recreate the mud on the wheels. By blowing the mixture off a brush, I added some dirt to the fuselage areas near the landing gear.



I then discoloured the exhaust nozzles using blue and gold pastels from Tamiya’s Weathering Master sets. Afterwards, I airbrushed a little AK075 ‘Wash for NATO vehicles’ inside the nozzles.

The underbelly fuel tank was misted with heavily diluted AK017 ‘Earth Effects’ and AK082 ‘Engine Grime’.

Once they had dried, I created numerous streaks with a long bristled brush, dampened with AK2039 ‘Kerosene Leaks’.

The completed model. The weathered and heat-effected bare metal tail end really adds interest.

Kitty Hawk’s Foxbat is not without its challenges, but all that extra work is worthwhile.

Lower surfaces showing off all that ordnance!

A view from the top.



TECH GUIDE: Eduard 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 8268 Eduard 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 8268

THE EAGLE HAS LANDEDPART TWO - PAINTING LUFTWAFFE CAMOUFLAGE

I built Eduard’s 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 when it was first released

earlier this year. Although it suffers from a number of dimensional and detail

accuracy problems, it is a pleasure to build.

Eduard has stated that it will issue a revised tooling of this kit taking into

account some of the criticism levelled at the time of its release.

In the meantime though, I was left with a model that, especially when viewed

in isolation, looked very much like a Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6, and furthermore

featured gorgeously crisp and fine surface features and a high level of detail.

I decided to go ahead and paint the model.

In fact, I thought that the Eduard Gustav would make the ideal canvas for a

step-by-step guide to painting mid to late-war Luftwaffe camouflage.

The Editor offers a step-by-step

guide to painting mid and late-war

Luftwaffe camouflage using Eduard’s

new 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf

109 G-6 as the canvas.

I

The Editor offers a step-by-step

guide to painting mid and late-war

Luftwaffe camouflage using Eduard’s guide to painting mid and late-war

Luftwaffe camouflage using Eduard’s guide to painting mid and late-war

new 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf Luftwaffe camouflage using Eduard’s

new 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf Luftwaffe camouflage using Eduard’s

109 G-6 as the canvas.

p 54-59 BF109 043B.indd 54 26/09/2014 13:48

Aircraft Edition 55

Anders takes up the story of how he constructed this attractive profile based on a partial photograph showing the fuselage from the canopy forward:

“The photo of Black 253 shows a JG 53 Ace of Spades emblem on the nose but the JG 53 never used that kind of three digit numerals, which is typical of a training unit. That leaves two options - either an aircraft delivered to a training unit had received a replacement engine cowling from a JG 53 aircraft or a JG 53 aircraft was passed on to training unit. The profile was created with the latter assumption in mind, retaining the black fuselage band of JG53 and a presumably a painted out tactical number. The camouflage and detail of the rest of the aircraft is based on a late Erla built Bf 109 G-14.”

I was happy to draw further inspiration from Anders’ very attractive profile, so I was ready to go.

Several decades ago, I obtained a War Eagle decal sheet with eight marking options for Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-14s. This was my source of inspiration for the paint job.

There has been much research since the decal sheet was released in 1990, and the presentation is not up to the standard that we would expect today. Even so, some of the subjects were very interesting to me, in particular the aircraft “Black 253”. I was intrigued by the unusual three-digit number in combination with JG 53’s “Pik-As” badge; and by the instructions’ suggestion that this aircraft was finished in RLM 81 Brown Violet and RLM 83 Dark Green. I happened to be chatting to artist Anders Hjortsberg, about this aircraft and I agreed with his conclusion that it was really most likely painted in the standard mid-war colours of RLM 74 Grey Green and RLM 75 Grey Violet on the upper surfaces.

STEP 1 – INSPIRATION Every project has to start with inspiration.

“Luftwaffe camouflage can be one

of the most complex painting tasks

for any modeller, but it can also be

one of the most satisfying...”

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TECH GUIDE: Eduard 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 8268

STEP 2 – PREPARATION

STEP 3 – BASE COLOURS

STEP 4 – MOTTLING

After the model is built, it is well worthwhile to spend a few minutes checking for any gaps, seam lines, sink marks or other imperfections. I have filled a slight step at the bottom of the fuselage where it meets the wing with Milliput White Two-Part Epoxy Putty.

You can see a few smears of putty at the wing root and where I gouged out some plastic on the spine. The cockpit was masked with Tamiya tape before painting got underway.

STEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURSSTEP 3 – BASE COLOURS


A. All paints were applied with my Testor’s Aztek A470 airbrsh. Normally, I would start with a primer coat, but this time I was using Mr Hobby lacquer paints, so I thought that this durable coat could double as the base. The entire model was sprayed with Mr Hobby’s Mr Color 117 RLM 76 Light Blue, thinned with around 70% Mr Colour Leveling Thinner 400. This thin mixture sprayed beautifully smooth and dried very quickly to a tough finish. The bottom of the tail planes and the fin/rudder were masked with Tamiya tape before the upper surface coat of Mr Color 37 RLM 75 Grey Violet.

B. The first coat of the RLM 75 upper surface colour. Demarcation lines have been sprayed freehand.

C. The Mr Color RLM 75 was mixed with RLM 76 Light Blue to obtain a paler shade, which was used for disruptive weathering mottles and patches.

D. The same process was used when applying the darker upper surface colour – Mr Colour 36, RLM 74 Grey Green. Once again the demarcation was sprayed without masks, and a paler version of the colour was sprayed over the neat shade – in this case a mix or RLM 75 Grey Violet and RLM 74 Grey Green. The fuselage sides have also received a fresh coat of RLM 76 Light Blue, with some unfortunate overspray!of RLM 76 Light Blue, with some unfortunate overspray!

STEP 4 – MOTTLINGSTEP 4 – MOTTLINGSTEP 4 – MOTTLING

B. The first coat of the RLM 75 upper surface colour. Demarcation lines have been sprayed freehand.

mixed with RLM 76 Light Blue to obtain a paler shade, which was used for disruptive weathering mottles and patches.

D. The same process was used when D. The same process was used when applying the darker upper surface colour – Mr Colour 36, RLM 74 Grey Green. Once again the demarcation was sprayed without masks, and a paler version of the colour was sprayed over the neat shade – in this case a mix or RLM 75 Grey Violet and RLM 74 Grey Green. The fuselage sides have also received a fresh coat

A. The pale RLM 75 mix was used to add the first layer of mottling and streaks to the fuselage sides and vertical tail planes. The key to a convincing mottle is layers. Never be afraid to spray, overspray and respray!

B. Next, a mottle of the mid-mix of RLM 74 and 75 was sprayed over the top of the first layer. It does not look too convincing yet.

C. RLM 76 Light Blue was now sprayed over the initial mottle, especially around the middle strip of the rear fuselage. Once again, the RLM 76 has left a very fine mist of overspray on the darker colours of the fuselage spine.

D. A fresh batch of pale RLM 74 and 75 were sprayed along the demarcation lines to eliminate the light blue overspray.

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STEP 5 – SPECIAL MARKINGS

A. The overpainted fuselage number was represented by a patch of RLM 74 Grey Green. The fuselage band was marked out with a thin strip of Tamiya tape on each side.

B. The thin boundary was supplemented with broader strips of paint to protect the surrounding camouflage from the black coat to come. Note that the mottle on the fin and rudder has been oversprayed and refined here too.

C. Black is black? Well, not always. Pure black would be very stark in this scale, so Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black was mixed with Dark Grey to take the edge off.

STEP 6 – DECALS

D. With the masking tape removed, the overall scheme starts to reveal itself. Now we are ready for decals.

The old War Eagle decals performed perfectly over three thin coats of glossy Future floor polish. National markings and stencils are from the Eduard kit. They were totally trouble free in application and responded well to Solvaset decal setting solution, but both the upper wing crosses and the fuselage crosses are slightly oversized.

An EagleCal decal was used for the spinner spiral. I used LOTS of setting solution to get this to settle down. I find this one of the scariest jobs in modelling, but if you hold your nerve you should come up with a good result.

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TECH GUIDE: Eduard 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 • Kit No. 8268


STEP 7 - FINISHING TOUCHES

The canopy and aerial mast were drilled and pinned with copper wire to reinforce this potentially fragile join. The canopy has been masked with the sheet included in the Eduard Royal Class Bf 109 G release.

The canopy parts were masked from the inside too (to avoid overspray) before receiving a coat of Tamiya XF-63 German Grey, representing the RLM 66 Black Grey canopy framing.

Eduard’s wheels are thoughtfully split into inner and outer hubs with separate plastic tyres. This makes painting much easier.

The fit of the wheel parts is perfect, and the gear legs fit well too.

The model received an overall flat coat but some silvering remained between the arms of the wing and fuselage crosses. This was probably as a result of my own haste rather than any fault of the decals.

After a few unsuccessful attempts at slicing and adding spots of decal solvent, I eventually bit the bullet and resprayed the offending areas.

At this stage I also added a thin panel line wash, and sprayed a very thin mix of Tamiya XF-1 Flat Black and XF-64 Red Brown on the main surface features as well as in horizontal streaks.

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Aircraft Edition 59

EDUARD’S GUSTAV - ONE VIEWPOINTRegardless of the detail and dimensional concerns mentioned earlier, I think that Eduard’s 1:48 scale Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 is still a very nice kit.

It simply blows the opposition away in terms of surface textures, level of detail and included options. The Cartograf decals are also a cut above the rest of the pack. Engineering is sensible, and I can confirm that the model is a fast build with excellent fit. In these respects, Eduard’s Gustav is every bit as good as their recent Spitfires.

Yes, there are a number of detail accuracy issues and the kit does appear to be oversized. These issues will be a game-breaker for some, and irrelevant to others. It really is up to the individual modeller to make up his or her own mind.

I do know that I will be building a bunch of them!

Thanks to Eduard for the sample www.eduard.com

STEP 8 – COMPLETE!

MODELSPEC

Eduard 1:48 Messerschmitt Bf 109 G-6 Kit No. 8268

Paints and Finishing Products Used:

Testor Aztek A470 AirbrushMr Hobby Lacquer Paints - Mr Colour 36 RLM 74 Grey Green; 37 RLM 75 Grey Violet; 117 RLM 76 Light Blue.Tamiya Acrylic Paints – XF-1 Flat Black; XF-64 Red Brown; X-25 Clear Green; X-27 Clear Red.Future Floor Polish

Excellent detail and fit; fine, crisp surface features.

Dimensional and detail accuracy problems. Main landing gear legs need to be raked forward a few more degrees.

Rating: 8 out of 10

Thanks to Eduard for the sample www.eduard.com

Detail parts and sub-assemblies such as the canopy, the propeller and the landing gear were added to complete the model.

Much of the mottling is hidden by the markings, but we all know the work that has gone into the paint job!

Luftwaffe camouflage can be one of the most complex painting tasks for any modeller, but it can also be one of the most satisfying.

The grainy and high contrast photo seems to be the only image of this aircrat that is available. Anders extrapolated other features that were typical of late-war Erla-built Gustavs.

•

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MILITARY ILLUSTRATED MODELLER INDEXISSUES 1 – 15

A detailed listing of all the articles in the Military and Aircraft Editions of Military Illustrated Modeller, compiled by Dominic O’Donnell.

AIRCRAFT EDITION

Subject Article Nationality Manufacturer Scale Type Author Issue Date PageAlbatros D.II Esebeck’s Albatros German Eduard 1/48 Build Gary Edmundson 15.08 Jul-12 44Avro Lancaster Models A Night Flight Down Memory Lane British Tamiya 1/48 Review Brett Green 15.15 Jul-12 66BAe Hawk Red Arrows Hawk British Revell 1/32 Preview MiM 1.04 May-11 22Cessna A-37 Dragonfly Super Tweet Revisited USA Encore Models 1/48 Preview Brett Green 7.10 Nov-11 47Dassault Mirage 2000B/N/D Mirage In Blue French Kinetic 1/48 Build Mick Evans 3.09 Jul-11 48Dassault Mirage IIIO Delta Down Under Australian High Plains 1/72 Build Mick Evans/Glen Porter 15.10 Jul-12 50De Havilland Sea Venom FAW.21 Sea Venom FAW.21 British Cyber-Hobby 1/72 Preview MiM 15.13 Jul-12 57Douglas SBD-3 Dauntless Midway Dive Bomber USA Accurate Miniatures 1/48 Build Gary Edmundson 9.09 Jan-12 50Fiat G.91Y Yankee A Yankee in Mediterranean Colours Italian ADV Models 1/48 Preview Brett Green 15.09 Jul-12 49Fieseler Fi 103 Re4 Failure is not an Option German Bronco 1/35 Technique Brett Green 13.14 May-12 66Flakpanzer IV Wirbelwind Reap the Whirlwind German Dragon 1/35 Build Roman Volchenkov 14.01 Jun-12 6Focke-Wulf 189 A-1 Nachtjager Twin Boom Night Fighter German Great Wall Hobbies 1/48 Preview Luke Pitt 5.11 Sep-11 63Focke-Wulf Fw 190 D Big Tail Dora German Eduard Profipac 1/48 Preview Brett Green 3.08 Jul-11 46Focke-Wulf Fw 190 D-9 Derelict Dora German Tamiya 1/48 Build James Davies 11.11 Mar-12 46Focke-Wulf Ta 152 C End of the Line German Pacific Coast Models 1/32 Build Brett Green 7.04 Nov-11 26Focke-Wulf Ta 152 C-0 Focke-Wulf Fighter Finale German HobbyBoss 1/48 Preview Brett Green 7.05 Nov-11 34Focke-Wulf Ta 152 H “JG301 “”Wild Sau””” German na na Profile Virgil O’ Neill 5.03 Sep-11 16Focke-Wulf Ta 152 H-1 High Flyer German Zoukei-Mura 1/32 Build Chris Wauchop 5.02 Sep-11 8General Dynamics F-111C New Pig on the Block Australian HobbyBoss 1/48 Build Mick Evans 9.07 Jan-12 40General Dynamics F-16C (block 25/32) Look at Me USA Tamiya 1/48 Build Dave Aungst 13.10 May-12 48Gloster Gladiator Winter Gladiator Finnish Silver Wings 1/32 Build Harvey Low 13.09 May-12 42Gotha G.IV The White Ghost German Wingnut Wings 1/32 Build Jeroen Veen 9.08 Jan-12 42Grumman A-6E Intruder SWIP Intruder USA Kinetic 1/48 Preview Brett Green 11.08 Mar-12 39Grumman C-2 Greyhound The Greyhound & Me USA na na Reference Rodger Kelly 15.01 Jul-12 6Grumman C-2A Greyhound Slingshot Cargo Truck USA Kinetic 1/48 Preview Brett Green 9.05 Jan-12 26Grumman C-2A Greyhound Gargantuan Greyhound USA Kinetic 1/48 Build Mick Evans 15.02 Jul-12 12Grumman F-14A Tomcat Seventy Second Tomcat USA HobbyBoss 1/72 Preview Phil Parsons 15.05 Jul-12 33Grumman F6F-3 Hellcat That Hellcat Grin USA Eduard Profipac 1/72 Preview Brett Green 7.08 Nov-11 40Grumman F6F-3 Hellcat Helluva Cat ! Building Eduard’d Itty Bitty Kitty USA Eduard 1/72 Build Rafe Morrissey 11.09 Mar-12 40Grumman S-2E/S-2G Tracker Mainstream Stoof USA Kinetic 1/48 Preview Brett Green 3.01 Jul-11 6Grumman S-2E/S-2G Tracker Eyes of the Fleet USA Kinetic 1/48 Build Jeroen Veen 13.02 May-12 10Grumman S-2G Tracker S-2G Tracker Walk Around Australian na na Reference Brett Green 13.01 May-12 6“Handley Page Halifax B. Mk.I/II, GR.II” Magic Halifax Part One - Construction British Revell 1/72 Build Brett Green 11.05 Mar-12 18“Handley Page Halifax B. Mk.I/II, GR.II” “Magic Halifax Part Two - Completion, Painting & Markings” British Revell 1/72 Build Brett Green 13.13 May-12 54Hawker Hurricane Mk.1 One of The Few - Part 1 British Pacific Coast Models 1/32 Build Brett Green 3.06 Jul-11 32Hawker Hurricane Mk.1 Battle of Britain Stalwart British Italeri 1/48 Preview MiM 9.00 Jan-12 4Hawker Hurricane Mk.1 One of The Few - Part 2 - Earning My Wings British Pacific Coast Models 1/32 Build Brett Green 9.04 Jan-12 16Hawker Sea Fury Dutch Frankenfury Dutch Hobbycraft/Trumpeter 1/48 Build Ian Robertson 5.04 Sep-11 18Hawker Seahawk Cold War Seahawk British HobbyBoss 1/72 Preview Glen Porter 5.01 Sep-11 6Heinkel He 111 P-1 Big Blitz Bomber German Revell 1/32 Preview Brett Green 7.01 Nov-11 6Heinkel He 162 A-2/Ford Staff Car “Behind the Hanger Door- Somewhere in Germany, April-May 1945” USA Tamiya 1/48 Build Joaquin Garcia Gazquez 9.06 Jan-12 28

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Aircraft Edition 61

Heinkel He-219 Uhu A Night Owl Dressed in Green German Tamiya 1/48 Build Ian Robertson 1.05 May-11 24HH-60H Rescue Hawk Rescue From Behind Enemy Lines USA Skunkmodels Workshop 1/48 Build Mick Evans 5.08 Sep-11 48Il-2 Shturmovic Stalin’s Arrow - Part One - Building the Test Shot Russian Tamiya 1/48 Build Brett Green 15.03 Jul-12 17J-20 Mighty Dragon “Any Colour you want, as Long as it’s Black” Chinese Trumpeter 1/72 Preview Phil Parsons 13.11 May-12 52Junkers Ju 88 A-4 Junkers Gem German Revell 1/32 Preview Brett Green 11.10 Mar-12 45Kawasaki Ki-61 Hein Turning Japanese Japanese Hasegawa 1/32 Build Chris Wauchop 3.04 Jul-11 18McDonnell F3H-2 Demon Top Demon USA HobbyBoss 1/48 Preview Brett Green 13.12 May-12 53MD Helicopters MH-6 Tow Missile Defender USA Academy/Hasagawa 1/48 Build Dave Aungst 7.13 Nov-11 58Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-1 First Emil German Eduard 1/48 Build Brett Green 13.03 May-12 16Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-4 Emil Four German Eduard 1/32 Preview Brad Fallon 13.08 May-12 41Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-4/B Blitz Jabo - Part One - Construction German Eduard 1/32 Build Brett Green 9.10 Jan-12 54Messerschmitt Bf 109 E-4/B Blitz Jabo - Part Two - Painting & Markings German Eduard 1/32 Build Brett Green 15.14 Jul-12 58Messerschmitt Bf 109 F Defending Fortress Europe German Revell 1/32 Build Chris Wauchop 11.06 Mar-12 28Messerschmitt Bf 109 F-4/Trop The Star Of Africa German Hasegawa 1/32 Build Chris Wauchop 1.07 May-11 36Messerschmitt Bf 109 F-4/Trop Colour Profile German na 1/48 Profile Richard J. Caruana 1.08 May-11 46Messerschmitt Bf 110 G-4 Nocturnal Nemesis German Eduard 1/48 Build Ian Robertson 3.02 Jul-11 8Messerschmitt Bf 110 G-4 Colour Profile German na na Profile Virgil O’ Neill 3.03 Jul-11 16MiG-21BIS Cold War Fighter Various Eduard 1/48 Preview Brett Green 11.02 Mar-12 5MIG-21MF The Last Word Various Eduard 1/48 Preview Jennings Heilig 1.01 May-11 6MIG-21MF Mikoyen’s Masterpiece East German Eduard 1/48 Build Brett Green 1.02 May-11 10misc The Next Big Thing misc misc 1/32 Comment Brett Green 5.12 Sep-11 66Mitsubishi A6M3/3a Zero Solomons Zero Japanese Tamiya 1/48 Build Joaquin Garcia Gazquez 7.12 Nov-11 52Mitsubishi A6M5 Zero From Zero to Hero Japanese Tamiya 1/72 Preview Brett Green 13.04 May-12 28na Stars & Bars USA na na Reference Jennings Heilig 15.06 Jul-12 34Nakajima Ki-44-II Tojo Tachiarai Tojo Japanese Hasegawa 1/32 Build Ian Robertson 13.05 May-12 30North American B-25J Mitchell Big Beautiful Bomber USA Wingscale 1/32 Preview Jeroen Veen 1.10 May-11 50North American B-25J Mitchell B-25J Mitchell Walk Around USA na na Reference Brett Green 9.02 Jan-12 8North American B-25J Mitchell B-25J Mitchell Walk Around USA Hasegawa 1/72 Build Ian Robertson 9.03 Jan-12 10North American FJ-4 Fury Triple Fury USA HobbyBoss 1/48 Build Mike Robertson 11.07 Mar-12 36North American P-51-D Mustang Mustang Magic USA Tamiya 1/32 Preview Brett Green 5.07 Sep-11 40North American P-51D Mustang Dallas Pony USA Tamiya 1/32 Build Chris Wauchop 15.07 Jul-12 36Northrop F-5E Tiger II Agressor Snake USA AFV Club 1/48 Build Dave Aungst 3.07 Jul-11 40Northrop P-61 Black Widow P-61 Black Widow USA na na Reference Brett Green 7.02 Nov-11 8Northrop P-61 Black Widow Nocturnal Nemesis - Part One - Construction USA Great Wall Hobbies 1/48 Build Brett Green 7.03 Nov-11 12Northrop P-61 Black Widow Nocturnal Nemesis - Part Two - Painting & Detailing USA Great Wall Hobbies 1/48 Build Brett Green 11.12 Mar-12 56Northrop P-61A Black Widow Glass Nose Widow USA Great Wall Hobby 1/48 Preview MiM 15.12 Jul-12 56Pfalz D.XII XII O’ Clock High German Wingnut Wings 1/32 Preview Brett Green 7.07 Nov-11 38Polikarpov I-16 A Rat on Skis Russian Eduard weekend 1/48 Build Werner Scheibling 7.09 Nov-11 42Propellers Props for Props: 10 Steps to a Beautifully Weathered Propeller misc misc misc Technique Rafe Morrissey 5.05 Sep-11 26Propellers Props for Props Part 2: World War One Wooden Propellers misc misc misc Technique Dave Johnson 7.06 Nov-11 36R.A.F. FE2b Masterton FE.2b British na na Reference Dave Johnson 11.03 Mar-12 6R.A.F. FE2b The Fighting Fee British Wingnut Wings 1/32 Build Dave Johnson 11.04 Mar-12 8Republic F-84E Thunderjet Big Thunderjet USA HobbyBoss 1/32 Preview Brett Green 9.01 Jan-12 6Republic P-47 Thunderbolt Thunderbolts of the Hell Hawks USA na na “Review, Book” MiM 15.11 Jul-12 54Roland D.Via Confessions of a Biplane Naif Part 1 German Wingnut Wings 1/32 Build Brett Green 1.11 May-11 54Roland D.Via Lozenge & Struts & Rigging- Oh My Part 2 German Wingnut Wings 1/32 Build Brett Green 3.10 Jul-11 52RQ-4B Global Hawk Global By Remote USA Skunkmodels Workshop 1/48 Build Mick Evans 1.06 May-11 34Rumpler C.IV Two Seats Fit for a Kaiser German Wingnut Wings 1/32 Preview Rob Baumgartner 11.01 Mar-12 4SAAB 32 Lansen Northern Cold War Warrior Swedish Tarangus 1/48 Preview Brett Green 13.06 May-12 37Shorts Tucano T.1 Black to Basics British Alley Cat 1/48 Build Marcus Nicholls 5.09 Sep-11 52Sukhoi Su-24M Fencer D Eastern Block Swinger Russian Trumpeter 1/48 Build Mick Evans 13.07 May-12 38Sukhoi Su-25 Frogfoot A A Wolf in Frog’s Clothing Czech Trumpeter 1/32 Build Mick Evans 7.11 Nov-11 48Supermarine Spitfire The Best Laid Plans British misc 1/48 Preview Brett Green 3.11 Jul-11 66Supermarine Spitfire Mk.XII Griffin Spitfire British Airfix 1/48 Preview MiM 1.03 May-11 20Supermarine Spitfire Mk.XVI Sweet Kiwi Sixteen New Zealand Tamiya 1/32 Build Dave Johnson 5.06 Sep-11 28Supermarine Spitfire Mk.XVIe Low Back Spitfire British Tamiya 1/32 Preview Brett Green 1.09 May-11 48TBD-1 Devestator Stop Press - Great Wall Hobby’s 1:48 TBD-1 Devestator USA Great Wall Hobbies 1/48 Preview Brett Green 11.13 Mar-12 66Vickers Valiant The First of the Vees British Airfix 1/72 Preview Brett Green 5.10 Sep-11 62Vought F4U-1 & F4U-1a Corsair Modelling The Black Sheep VMF-214 USA Tamiya 1/48 Build Rafe Morrissey 3.05 Jul-11 26Yokosuka MXY-7 Model 11 Ohka Cherry Blossom Japanese FineMolds 1/48 Build Tony Bell 15.04 Jul-12 28

AFV EDITION Subject Article Nationality Manufacturer Scale Type Author Issue Date PageAAV-7 A1 RAM/RS Amtrac Recovery USA na na Reference Mike Mummey 6.07 Oct-11 36AFVs Euro Militaire 2011 UK misc misc Show MiM-AFV 8.01 Dec-11 6AFVs Scale Modelworld 2011 UK misc misc Show MiM-AFV 10.01 Feb-12 6AFVs Nuremberg Toy Fair 2012 Germany misc misc Show MiM-AFV 12.01 Apr-12 6Behind the Scenes Maintenance Dioramas You Must Build Before You Die misc na na Reference Marcus Nicholls 12.10 Apr-12 66BMP APC Chips with Everything Iraqi na na Reference MiM 6.09 Oct-11 52BRDM-3 Identity Crisis Iraqi/USMC Dragon 1/35 Build Fran Vazquez 8.05 Dec-11 24Brummbar Sd.Kfz.166 Getting Grizzly with It German Dragon 1/35 Build Gary Kwan 12.09 Apr-12 58

Subject Article Nationality Manufacturer Scale Type Author Issue Date Page

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MILITARY ILLUSTRATED MODELLER INDEXISSUES 1 – 15

BT-42 Finnish Fill-In Part.1 Finnish Tamiya 1/35 Build Marcus Nicholls 6.06 Oct-11 30BT-42 Finnish Fill-In Part.2 Finnish Tamiya 1/35 Build Marcus Nicholls 8.06 Dec-11 30Buffalo MPCV Buffalo Soldier; General Dynamics‘ Awesome ‘Mine Protected Clearance Vehicle’ USA Bronco 1/35 Preview Marcus Nicholls 14.02 Jun-12 12Centurion Mk.11R Canadian Club Canadian AFV Club 1/35 Build Jason Bobrowich 14.06 Jun-12 40Challenger 2 ‘Up-Armoured Sand Blasted Challenger British Trumpeter 1/35 Build Zachary Sex/David Coyne 10.02 Feb-12 10Churchill Mk.III Mr Churchill’s Tank British AFV Club 1/35 Build Eelke Warrink 2.07 Jun-11 46Cruiser Tank A13 A Cruiser Tank At The Eastern Front German Bronco 1/35 Build Lars Richter 10.10 Feb-12 56Cruiser Tank A34 Comet Comet Loses Its Sparkle British Bronco 1/35 Build Jari Hemila 10.05 Feb-12 24Dealing with Photo-etch DVD Review- Reference & Technique Guide na na na Review Adam Wilder 8.11 Dec-11 64Detailing Basic Training Part 5 misc various na Technique MiM 10.03 Feb-12 16Dioramas A Little Touch of Humanity misc misc misc Reference MiM 6.12 Oct-11 62Dioramas Dioramas You Must Build Before You Die misc na na Reference Marcus Nicholls 8.12 Dec-11 66Dioramas Dioramas You Must Build Before You Die misc na na Reference Marcus Nicholls 10.12 Feb-12 66Exhausts/Rust One Shot Weathering misc misc na Technique Marcus Nicholls 4.01 Aug-11 6FlaK Panther Panther’s Rare Breed German Cyber-Hobby 1/35 Build Andy Gulden 10.06 Feb-12 30GAZ 69 Gorkovsky Automobilny Zavod - The GAZ 69 East German Bronco 1/35 Build Lars Richter 4.09 Aug-11 46General Motors DUKW Like a DUKW to Water USA na na Reference MiM 8.10 Dec-11 62Getting & Finishing parts off sprues Basic Training Part 1 misc various na Technique MiM 2.03 Jun-11 18Hetzer/Officer Vignette “Oop! Stuck In the Mud, Budapest 1945“ German Darius Miniatures/Alpine Miniatures 1/35 Build Carl Startin 14.04 Jun-12 22IDF M1 Sherman Israeli M4A1 76MM(W) M1‘ Super Sherman’ Israeli na na Reference Zachary Sex 8.08 Dec-11 52IDF M50 Super Sherman Show your Colours; a Harlequin Sherma at Metula Israeli Dragon 1/35 Build Zoltan Csome/Peter Horvath 14.05 Jun-12 30Installation of Photo-etched Parts Basic Training Part 3 misc various na Technique MiM 6.03 Oct-11 16Jackal 1 APC Day of the (MWMIK) Jackal British Accurate Armour 1/35 Build Marcus Nicholls 4.08 Aug-11 32Jagdpanther Normandy Jagdpanther German Dragon 1/35 Build Angus Creighton 6.04 Oct-11 18Jagdpanzer IV Jagdpanzer IV L70 Disk-Camo German Dragon 1/35 Build Angus Creighton 8.04 Dec-11 18Jagdtiger The Little Red Devil German Tamiya 1/48 Build Pat Johnson 2.06 Jun-11 34JS-2 “Tamiya’s 1:48 JS-2, A Recipe For Stress Free Modelling” Polish Tamiya 1/48 Build Marcus Nicholls 14.08 Jun-12 52King Tiger All Hail the King German Tamiya 1/16 Build Staf Snyers 8.02 Dec-11 8Laffy 80AM Automitrailleuse Tres Elegant French DES 1/35 Build Stan Spooner 2.05 Jun-11 28M3 Scout Car Scout’s Honour Swedish Dragon/Revell 1/35 Build Sven Young 6.02 Oct-11 8M4A2 Sherman “Medium, Well Done” USA Dragon 1/35 Build Rob Ferreira 6.05 Oct-11 24Maz 537 / T55 Maz Hysteria Serbian Trumpeter 1/35 Build Zachary Sex 4.03 Aug-11 10Military Fork Truck Buiding a Resin Kit Pt.1- Waste Resin Cleanup USA Verlinden Productions 1/35 Technique MiM 2.10 Jun-11 60Military Fork Truck Buiding a Resin Kit Pt.2- Straightening & Assembly USA Verlinden Productions 1/35 Technique MiM 4.11 Aug-11 60Military Fork Truck Buiding a Resin Kit Pt.3- Painting Time USA Verlinden Productions 1/35 Technique MiM 6.11 Oct-11 60misc Boneyard Bonanza German misc na Reference MiM 10.09 Feb-12 52misc Behind the Front Lines- Scenes From Post D-Day Normandy misc na na Reference MiM 14.07 Jun-12 46Mud One-Shot Weathering misc misc misc Technique Marcus Nicholls 6.01 Oct-11 6Nashorn Sd.Kfz.164 Resplendent Rhinoceros German Dragon 1/35 Build Kristof Pulinckx 12.06 Apr-12 30Paint Chipping with sponge Sponge? It’s a Piece of Cake misc misc misc Technique Marcus Nicholls 10.11 Feb-12 62Painting Tracks with ‘Blacken It’ The Perfect Tracks na Friumodel/Blacken-it na Technique Marcus Nicholls 8.09 Dec-11 56Panther G Late Production Green & Brown or Green & Brown German Dragon 1/35 Build Angus Creighton 12.04 Apr-12 18Panzer IV The ‘Four At War German na na Reference MiM 4.02 Aug-11 8Panzer IV ausf. D Universal Panzer German Tristar 1/35 Build Angus Creighton 10.04 Feb-12 18Panzer IV Ausf. D ‘Up-gunned’ I Could Do It with a ‘D German Dragon 1/35 Build Mike Kirchoff 6.10 Oct-11 54Polish Army WZT-SU “If It’s Russian & Ugly, Build It” Polish Dragon/Scratch 1/35 Build Marcel Jussen 2.09 Jun-11 54Preparation for Photoetched Parts Basic Training Part 2 misc various na Technique MiM 4.04 Aug-11 18Rheinmetall ‘Neubaufahrzeug’ New Production Vehcle German Cyber-Hobby 1/35 Build Takahiro Sumitomo 2.11 Jun-11 62Russian Scrounger with Panzerfaust …at the Fall of the Reich Russian Mig Productions 1/35 Build Mario Eens 12.08 Apr-12 52Rust One-Shot Weathering misc misc misc Technique MiM 2.12 Jun-11 64Sd.Kfz.7/1 Flakvierling Roll Out the Barrels German Dragon 1/35 Build Angus Creighton 2.04 Jun-11 20ShkH DANA vz.77 DANA International Czech HobbyBoss 1/35 Build Marcus Nicholls 2.02 Jun-11 10Somua MCG Mortar This Than Meets The Eye German Brach Models 1/35 Build Marcus Nicholls 10.08 Feb-12 42SPz Marder 1 A5 Dial M for Marder German Revell 1/35 Preview MiM 4.06 Aug-11 24StulG 33b Sturminfanteriegeschutz at Stalingrad German Dragon 1/35 Build Angus Creighton 14.03 Jun-12 16Sturer Emil Stubborn Emil German Trumpeter 1/35 Build Angus Creighton 4.05 Aug-11 20T-34/85 UTZ Mod.1944 Wilder at Heart Russian Dragon 1/35 Build Adam Wilder 6.08 Oct-11 42T-55 Enigma Variation on a Theme Iraqi Tamiya 1/35 Build Marcus Nicholls 12.07 Apr-12 40T-69 (conversion) Iraqi Army Type-69 II Iraqi Verlinden/Tamiya 1/35 Reference MiM 10.07 Feb-12 38T26E4 Super Pershing Pershing the Edge of the Envelope USA Tamiya 1/35 Preview MiM 2.01 Jun-11 6T26E4 Super Pershing A Challenger for the King Tigers’s Throne USA HobbyBoss 1/35 Build Martin Kovac 12.05 Apr-12 24T55 Enigma Riddle of the Sands Iraqi na na Reference MiM 4.12 Aug-11 62Texturing & Photo-etched Details Basic Training Part 4 misc various na Technique MiM 8.03 Dec-11 16Tiger 1 Paws for Thought German AFV Club 1/48 Build Lester Plaskitt 4.07 Aug-11 26VK.1602 ‘Leopard’ Lil Baby Panther German HobbyBoss 1/35 Build Mig Jiminez 8.07 Dec-11 42Voroshilovetz The Mighty One Russian Trumpeter 1/35 Build Lars Richter 12.02 Apr-12 10Welcoming the Liberators Dioramas You Must Build Before You Die misc na na Reference Marcus Nicholls 14.09 Jun-12 66Weld Seams On AFVs Weld-Done Effects misc misc na Technique MiM 12.03 Apr-12 16Wiesel 2 LeFlaSys ‘Ozelot’ Bundersweher’s Dwarf Leopard German Revell 1/35 Build Marcus Nicholls 4.10 Aug-11 52You Just Can’t Live Without 25 Armour Modelling Items misc Various na Technique Marcus Nicholls 2.08 Jun-11 52

Subject Article Nationality Manufacturer Scale Type Author Issue Date Page

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p 63 PocketmagsNEW 043.indd 8 25/09/2014 17:20

For the serious Modeller

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Aircraft Edition 65

Next IssuesEditors; Aircraft Edition - Brett Green AFV Edition - Marcus NichollsPublisher; Alan Harman Graphic Design; Alex Hall, Colin TrundleAdvertising Manager; Gareth LiddiattAdvertising Assistant; Joe BrownOffice Manager; Paula GrayAdministration Manager; Hannah McLaurieMIM Website; ADH Web Team

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military illustrated modeller

© ADH Publishing 2014

ISSUE No.043 November 2014

...AND MORE!

LOCKHEED’S FLYING COFFIN PT.2Marcus Nicholls paints and weathers the new 1:32 scale F-104 G Starfighter from Italeri.

Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 45 - Aircraft Edition on sale 18 December, 2014

SPITFIRE REFRESHEDBrett Green builds and improves the brand new 1:32 scale Revell Spitfire Mk.IIa.

MEET THE FOKKERSThree 1:32 scale Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VIIs by Leo Stevenson

LOCKHEED’S FLYING COFFIN PT.2

Military Illustrated Modeller Military Illustrated Modeller

MEET THE FOKKERSThree 1:32 scale Wingnut Wings Fokker D.VIIs by Leo Stevenson

GREEN ZEKEAirfix’s 1:72 A6M2 Zero by Tomasz R. Lubczy ski.

n

Military Illustrated Modeller Issue 44 - AFV Edition on sale 20 November, 2014

VAMPIRES ON THE NIGHT SHIFTWW2 infrared operations in 1:35

STUKA ZU FUSS, HOTCHKISS STYLE!Trumpeter’s 1:35 German 28cm Wurfgerät

40 Auf G.W H39 in detail

S CLUB HEAVEN!An early Trumpeter 1:35 kit, the Swedish S103 ‘S Tank’, gets some detail upgrades

VAMPIRES ON THE NIGHT SHIFT

An early Trumpeter 1:35 kit, the Swedish S103 ‘S Tank’, gets some detail upgrades

p 65 NextIssues 043B.indd 65 26/09/2014 13:51


BLAST FROM THE PASTTailpiece

REVELL’S 1:32 JUNKERS JU 88 A-1

I built Revell’s 1:32 scale Junkers Ju 88 A-1 as soon as it was available in late 2008. The kit comprises around 255 parts in pale blue-grey plastic, 26 parts in clear and markings for three aircraft.The quality of the mouldings is excellent. Texture

of the plastic is satin. Surface detail is by way of fine and crisply recessed panel lines with selected rivets and raised features as appropriate. All the surface detail is consistently rendered with no fading or soft lines in evidence. A number of dials on the instrument panel suffer from fairly prominent sink marks but these are the only moulding imperfections that I found on visible surfaces.

The cockpit area is wonderfully fitted out. Nearly half of the total kit parts make up the front office - around 125 pieces in all. The seats, their mounts, radios, instruments, quadrants, guns, ammunition, oxygen bottles, sidewalls and rudder pedals are all realistically detailed. The pilot’s seat assembly alone comprises 12 parts. Revell even supplies an optional flare pistol to place on one of the seats if desired. The only omissions are the seat harnesses. In this large scale you really will need to add these. The dedicated superdetailer may also wish to add cable bundles to the rear of the instrument panel too.

The dials on the instrument panel are represented by flat disks.

The rear cockpit bulkhead extends well beyond the fuselage sides to form the front of a stout wing spar. The mid-fuselage bulkhead completes this spar. The wings fit securely with the dihedral firmly set thanks to this thoughtful piece of engineering.

The horizontal tailplanes are also mounted on two sturdy spars.

Exterior detail is as well executed as the cockpit. All control surfaces, including the flaps, are separate.

The mounts for the flaps, ailerons and dive brakes need some minor surgery before repositioning.

The unique early-style tailplanes and wing tips are separate parts too, hinting at the later Ju 88 A-4 that followed.

The rear of the cockpit gondola may also be posed open.

Engine nacelles are simply broken down into two halves. Cowl flaps are moulded closed as part of each cowling half. Each exhaust section is supplied as a single strip. This simplifies assembly. The ends of the exhaust stacks are solid. In this large scale it would be worth spending a little extra time drilling these out. Engine instruments are supplied for the inboard half of each nacelle, along with the clear covers.

Surprisingly, the kit does not include the wing-mounted ETC bomb racks that were almost universally fitted.

Clear parts are beautifully presented. They are crisp, thin and clear. Canopy framing is suitably fine. The main canopy comprises six clear parts, so some care was needed to avoid smudging these parts with adhesive.

Decals are in regsiter and colours look good. Full stencil markings are also provided.

As is the case with all Revell GmbH models, Hazenkreuze decals are not supplied. These will have to be sourced from the spares box or from after-market decal sheets.

The model was a pleasure to build and very impressive when finished. Revell’s 1:32 scale Junkers Ju 88 A-1 remains one of the best large-scale Luftwaffe offerings that we have seen to date.

This model features in two detailed articles across Tamiya Model Magazine Issues 162 and 163. •

Can it really be nearly six years? The Editor takes a glance back at his 2008 build of Revell’s impressive 1:32 scale Junkers Ju 88 A-1.

Revell’s 1:32 scale Ju 88 A-1 alongside Eduard’s 1:32 scale Bf 109 E-1.

Cockpit components awaiting assembly. Everything here is straight from the box except the handles for the ammo bins and the harness and toe straps.

Lots of masking!

p 66 Tailpiece 043.indd 66 26/09/2014 13:52


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HOW TO BUILD... AIRCRAFT


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Aircraft book

‘How To Build… Tamiya’s Aircraft’, is the latest addition to this popular series of modelling titles and as such, offers the enthusiast plenty of inspirational builds, hints, tips and techniques to enjoy.

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