mild and gentle - essential · pdf filemild and gentle hostapon® sg – ... with...

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BU Industrial & Consumer

Specialties

Application Development Personal

Care

Dr. Peter Klug

18.10.2010

Mild and Gentle Hostapon® SG – novel amino acid surfactant for EO- and sulfate-

free rinse-off cosmetic formulations

Dr. Peter Klug, BU Industrial & Consumer Specialties, Application Development Personal Care (Copyright Clariant. All rights reserved.) Slide 2 18.10.2010

Public: Mild and Gentle

Novel Mild Surfactant in line with Clariant EcoTain Philosophy

Mildness

Efficacy

Natural based

Water saving

New opportunities

in rinse-off

New formulation

concepts



Hostapon® SG – Mild and Gentle

Hostapon® SG

– is the innovative mild surfactant based on glycine, the main amino acid of human

collagen

– opens up new formulation concepts – EO- and Sulfate-free cleansing products

with excellent rich and creamy foam, synergism with soap

– improves rinsability of formulations and helps to save water

– is significantly milder than other anionic surfactants

and gentle to skin and hair without compromising

on cleansing efficacy



Hostapon® SG – Mild and Gentle

INCI: Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

Readily biodegradable surfactant with plant based hydrophobe

Economic, liquid, salt containing form with highest possible active concentration

(approx. 25 %). Patented, economic 1 step synthesis process

Preservative-free due to high pH

Uses:

– Primary surfactant for EO-free, sulfate/sulfonate-free shampoos and body soaps

– Secondary surfactant for improved rinsing properties and soap-like skinfeel

in shampoos, shower gels and shaving preparations

– Mild facial cleansers with improved mildness and foam structure

Properties of Hostapon® SG - foam behaviour - rinsability study - mildness data - cleansing efficacy



Foam build-up: equilibrium at different pH

H+

OH-

Sodium Cocoyl

Glycinate

R = coco acyl

Cocoyl

Glycine Hostapon® SG has good

foam buildup and structure

within a broad pH range of

pH 6 to pH 10



Foaming behaviour at higher concentration

Test Method: 1.0% A.I. Hostapon® SG in soft water, 30°C, stir 2000 rpm for 1 min

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

5.5 6.5 7.5 8.5 9.5

pH value

foam

vo

lum

e/m

l

Hostapon® SG has

excellent foam within a broad

pH range

Relevant for Shampoos/

Shower gels in use after dilution



Synergistic foaming behaviour with fatty acids

Test Method: 10.0% A.I. Hostapon SG in soft water, 40°C, 1.0% fatty acid, pH=6 - 7, stir 2000 rpm for

1 min

Fatty acid increases foam

density greatly: Lauric Acid

boosts foam volume; both

Lauric Acid & Myristic Acid

can produce creamy lather

Combination of fatty

acids can improve foam

volume & creaminess

dramatically

0

50

100

150

200

250

300

350

0 1.0 lauric

acid

1.0

myristic

acid

0.3 lauric

acid+ 0.7

myristic

acid

0.7 lauric

acid+ 0.3

myristic

acid

fatty acid (%)

foam

volu

me/m

l

coarse foam volume/ml fine foam volume/mlRelevant for facial cleanser

after application with wet hands



Comparison of foam properties in surfactant mixtures

Foa

m v

olum

e (m

L)

Time

SG = Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

KB = Coco Betaine

SLES = Sodium Laureth Sulfate

APG = Coco Glucoside

Test Method: 0.01 % active surfactant mixture in deionized water, Sita-Foam Tester, 37°C, pH = 8.0

at pH > 7, the combination of Hostapon®

SG with Coco-Betaine gives identical foam

buildup compared to SLES/Coco-Betaine

Coco-Glucoside/Betaine mixtures show

only slow foam buildup

Hostapon® SG shows better speed of

lathering compared to Coco Glucoside and

improves the speed of lathering of Coco-

Glucoside/Betaine mixtures significantly

Optimum clarity is achieved at pH > 7

SLES/KB 1: 1

SG/KB 1: 1

SG/KB/APG 1: 1 : 1

KB/APG 1: 1

Time

Relevant to assess surfactant

base properties



Rinsibility study: panel test, Asian skin

-2

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

num

ber

of

pers

ons

improved rinsibility no difference worse rinsibility

20 persons, Base 1: 10 % A.I. SLES solution

Base 2: 10 % A.I. SLES + 3.0 % A.I. Hostapon® SG solution

3% A.I. Hostapon® SG

improves the skin feeling

of good rinsibility in the

formulation in a panel test

There is a significant

difference at 95 %

confidence level between

base 2 and base 1

The improved rinsability

helps to reduce water

consumption



Mildness data

RBC (Red blood cell) Test Data (pH = 7 - 8)

100

86

75

50

24

19

2

0 20 40 60 80 100

Denaturation (%)

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Coco Betaine

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

SLES-2

SLS

Low degree of Denaturation indicates excellent mildness

Hostapon® SG (Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate) is significantly milder than conventional anionic surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants



Mildness data in surfactant mixtures

RBC (Red blood cell) Test Data, Denaturation (%)

50

19

55

22

33

11

35

26

0 20 40 60

SLES/CAPB

SG/CAPB

SLES/KB

SG/KB

Ratio 50 / 50

Ratio 70 / 30

Anionic /Amphoteric blends based on Hostapon® SG are significantly milder than blends based on SLES

SG = Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

KB = Coco Betaine

SLES = Sodium Laureth Sulfate

CAPB = Cocamidopropyl Betaine



Cleansing efficacy

Cleansing Efficacy in Linitest Apparatus (Tissue with Sebum Dirt, 4

g/L surfactant, 30 min, 40 °C, deionized water)

58

12

56

10

0

20

40

60

80

Remission value (after washing) Remission Difference

SLES-2

Hostapon SG

Hostapon® SG shows similar cleansing efficacy compared to SLES-2

Shampoo & Bodywash



Formulation of EO- and sulfate-free shampoos and shower gels with Hostapon® SG

Hostapon® SG is the ideal surfactant for EO- and sulfate-free shampoos

Combination with Coco-Betaine or Cocamidopropyl Betaine gives improved mildness

compared to SLES based systems

Foam buildup is comparable to SLES-2/Betaine at pH above 7, foam creaminess is

significantly better

Optimal clarity is achievd at pH > 7.5

Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate thickens significantly better than Sodium Lauroyl

Sarcosinate or Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, thickening is possible by addition of

Cocamide MEA, Velsan® SC, biopolymers or associative thickeners like Genapol®

DAT 100

The hair feel is significantly “cleaner” compared to Betaine/APG systems



Mild shampoo for sensitive scalp EO- and sulfate-free, 15 % active surfactant BI 1164 A Hostapon® SG (Clariant) 30.00 %


Genagen® KB (Clariant) 25.00 % Coco-Betaine

Genagen® CME (Clariant) 1.00 %

Cocamide MEA

Velsan® SC (Clariant) 2.10 %

Sorbitan Caprylate

Water ad 100 %

B Benzyl Alcohol 0.60 %

Fragrance q.s.

C Citric Acid 25 % 0.70 %

Procedure

I Mix phase A while heating to

70 °C.

II Cool down to 30 °C

and add the components of B

while stirring.

III Finally adjust the pH with C

Properties:

pH = 7.00

Viscosity (Brookfield DV-I+):

2900 mPas

(T-D, 20 rpm, 20 °C)

Hostapon® SG is significantly easier to thicken than Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate

EO-free surfactant formulations may be thickened with Cocamide MEA and/or

Sorbitan Caprylate

Preserved with Sorbitan Caprylate and Benzyl Alcohol



Mild shampoo base EO- and sulfate-free, 15 % active surfactant BI 1165 A Hostapon® SG (Clariant) 30.00 %


Genagen® KB (Clariant) 25.00 % Coco-Betaine

Genagen® CME (Clariant) 2.00 %

Cocamide MEA

Water ad 100 %

B Nipaguard® DMDMH (Clariant) q.s.

DMDM Hydantoin

Fragrance q.s.

C Citric Acid 25 % 0.70 %

Procedure

I Mix phase A while heating

to 70 °C.

II Cool down to 30 °C

and add the components of

B while stirring.

III Finally adjust the pH with C

Properties:

pH = 7.00


2800 mPas

(T-D, 20 rpm, 20 °C)

Economic EO- and sulfate-free formulation with Hostapon® SG and incredible foam

No deposition of SLES on skin



Ultra-Mild Shampoo EO- and sulfate-free, 15 % active surfactant BI 1168 A Hostapon® SG (Clariant) 30.00 %


Fragrance 0.30 %

B Water ad 100 %

C Genagen® KB (Clariant) 15.00 % Coco-Betaine

Plantacare® 818 UP 5.77 %

Coco Glucoside

D Comperlan® 100 1.50 %

Cocamide MEA

E Citric Acid 25 % approx. 1.6 %

F Preservative q.s

Procedure

I Mix the components of A

II Add B to I

III Add C to II and stir until

homogenious

IV Add D to III and heat up, until

solution is clear, cool down

V Adjust pH to 7.0-7.2

VI Add F to V

Properties:

pH = 7.12


7150 mPas

(T-D, 20 rpm, 20 °C) Mild EO- and sulfate-free formulation with sugar surfactant

for increased mildness



Mild Effect Shower Gel EO- and sulfate-free, 11,8 % active surfactant AI 8191 A Water ad 100 %

B Genuvisco® CG 131 0.30 %

-Carrageenan

C Hostapon® SG (Clariant) 30.00 %


Hostapon® CCG (Clariant) 5.00 %

Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

Genagen® CAB 818 (Clariant) 3.33 %

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

Plantacare® 2000 UP 2.36 %

Decyl Glucoside

D Aristoflex® TAC (Clariant) 1.50 %

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Carboxyethyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

E Citric Acid 25 % approx. 1.25 %

F Nipaguard® DMDMH q.s

DMDM Hydantoin

Procedure

I Dissolve B in A while stirring

and heating to 40 °C

II Add the components of C and

stir until completely dissolved

III Slowly add D while stirring

until homogenious

IV Adjust pH with E to approx. 7

V Re-heat the formulation to 50

°C in case white flakes are

occuring after pH adjustment

VI Add F at room temperature

Properties:

pH = 7.00


2180 mPas

(T-D, 20 rpm, 20 °C) Mild EO- and sulfate-free formulation with sugar surfactant

for increased mildness and Aristoflex® TAC for stabilizing air bubbles

Facial Cleansers



Formulation of pasty facial cleansers with Hostapon® SG

The synergism with fatty acids and the excellent rinsability makes Hostapon® SG the

ideal surfactant for facial cleansers

Pasty facial cleansers are semi-crystalline masses with intense foam

The melting point of the facial cleanser is influenced

by pH, amount of moisturizer and type of moisturizer

(glycerin, sorbitol)

A melting point > 40-45 °C is ideal for the stability

of the facial cleanser



Facial cleanser Formulation tip I

Test Base: 15 % A.I. Hostapon® SG water solution, add different dosage Citric Acid

The crystallizing point

increases with decline of

pH (with adding citric acid )

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

6,9 6,55 6,04

pH value

cry

sta

llizin

g p

oin

t/°C

Crystalizing Point/°C



Test Base: 15 % A.I. Hostapon® SG with different levels of Glycerin at pH around 6

The crystallizing point

increases with the addition

of Glycerin at pH around 6

Facial cleanser Formulation tip II

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50

10 20 30

glycerin (%)

cry

sta

llizin

g p

oin

t/°C



0 10 20 30 40 50 60

Glycerin

Sorbitol

PEG 400

crystallizing point/°C

Test Base: 15 % A.I. Hostapon® SG with different kinds of humectants, fix the level of

humectant at 20 % and pH around 6

Although PEG 400 has the

highest crystallizing point, the

system does not form a stable

base, even at room temp.

Glycerin and Sorbitol form

a stable base, Glycerin has

the higher crystallizing point

Facial cleanser Formulation tip III



Mild facial cleanser CI 080707

A Water 25.00 %

Glycerin 20.00 %

Structure® 2001 2.00 %

Acrylates/Steareth-20 Itaconate Copolymer

B Hostapon® SG (Clariant) 34.00 % Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

Lauric Acid 1.00 %

Myristic Acid 0.25 %

Stearic Acid 0.25 %

C Citric Acid 0.70 %

Water 6.80 %

D Genagen® CAB (Clariant) 10.00 % Cocamidopropyl Betaine

E Nipaguard® DMDMH (Clariant) q.s.

DMDM Hydantoin

Fragrance q.s.

Procedure

I Mix phase A and put it into

water bath and heat to

80 °C.

II Add components of phase

B one by one and keep

stirring at 80 °C.

III Pre-mix phase C and put

into II.

IV Cool down to 60 C and add

phase D.

V Add phase E when

temperature is below

40 °C.

Properties:

pH = 6.45


150000-180000 cps

(T-D, 10 rpm, 25 °C, 24 h)



Mild facial cleanser CI 080723

A Hostapon® SCI 85 (Clariant) 12.00 % Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate

Water 48.00 %

B Genapol® DAT 100 (Clariant) 0.40 % PEG-150 Polyglyceryl-2 Tristearate

Lauric Acid 2.00 %

Stearic Acid 1.00 %

C Hostapon® SG (Clariant) 10.00 % Sodium Cocoyl Glycinate

Genagen® CAB (Clariant) 7.00 % Cocamidopropyl Betaine

D Xanthan Gum 0.30 %

Glycerin 5.00 %

E Carbomer® Aqua SF-1 4.00 %

Acrylates Copolymer

Water 10.30 %

F Nipaguard® DMDMH (Clariant) q.s.

DMDM Hydantoin

Fragrance q.s.

Procedure

I Mix phase A and put it into

water bath and heat to 80

°C.

II Add components of phase

B one by one and keep

stirring at 80 °C.

III Add components of phase

C and cool down to 60 °C

IV Pre-mix phase D and add it

into III

V Pre-mix phase E and add it

into IV, keep strong stirring.

VI Add phase F when

temperature is below

40 °C.

Properties:

pH = 6.05

Viscosity (Brookfield DV-I+)

80000-90000 cps

(T-D, 10 rpm, 25 °C,

24 h)

Mild and Gentle Summary



Summary

Hostapon® SG…

– is the ideal surfactant for EO-free, sulfate-/sulfonate-free formulations

– is used as primary surfactant in facial cleansers or as primary or secondary

surfactant in mild shampoos, body soaps and shaving preparations

– delivers excellent flash foam and rich and creamy foam within a wide pH range

– is one of the mildest anionic surfactants

– is free of preservatives

– is a Clariant EcoTain product

Backup



Foaming behaviour at different pH

The foam volume

increases with increasing

pH Foa

m v

olum

e (m

L)

Test Method: 0.01 % A.I. Hostapon® SG in deionized water, Sita-Foam Tester, 37°C, variable pH

Relevant to assess surfactant

base properties

pH = 7

pH = 8

pH = 9

Time

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