2016 KCRF Costume Guidelines | page 19

Middling Men

Required costume pieces:chemise/shirt/smocksocksshoesknee length breeches or long pantsdoublet with sleevesjerkinhatOptional pieces:gown or great coatbeltpouchjewelry by statusleather gloveswooden or pewter cupwooden or pewter plate or bowlprops applicable to trade

Fabrics to use:

Wool or cotton with some texture. (broad russet)

High-quality, light weight wool. (worsted)

High-quality cotton or wool - not modern-day broadcloth or quilting material. (broadcloth)

Brushed cotton or cotton moleskin. (fustian)

Moiréd taffeta blend or grosgrain - get a swatch as this can be a tricky one. (grosgrain)

Cotton satin in a furnishings weight. Possibly heavy cotton sateen, depending on the quality and look. (Satin de Bruges)

Leather

Satin- for doublets, foreparts or undersleeves only

Damask- for doublets, foreparts and undersleeves only unless you have a character need and we can talk

Plain white linen or 100% cotton for underthings.

Trims of the same materials, grosgrain, basic gimps and braids.

Refer to the color chart on page 6 for color options.

No prints or plaids or zippers.

Specifics about certain pieces The middle class man would be gentry with his own house and lands, a rich merchant or a servant in a nobleman’s household. He might have servants to see to his clothing and personal appearance. You should dress as well as your character can afford, including paying the sumptuary tax on some item so that you can be even more richly dressed. Your hat may be simply decorated with trim, cord or metal stampings or pins.

The shirts are made of fine linen or cotton and could have some black-work embroidery on the collar and cuffs. The doublet and jerkin are the same cut as nobility, but with slightly less rich fabric (non-metallic, one-color brocades, fine wool or linen) and trim with less ornate decoration. Men of this class would either be clean-shaven or sport a well-trimmed beard and moustache. Shoes should be newer and clean and might come in a variety of styles.

All of your clothing should be well fitted to your body and tidy.

Trims should be colorful and add contrast. Consider piping most seams in a matching color or black. Fastenings may be buttons of metal, bone or covered, frogs, hooks and eyes or ties.

In cold weather, layer thermal or silk underwear under your costume. You may add a caul under your hat. Since your costume has several interesting things to look at, try not to cover it up when weather turns cold.