micro fibre dyeing by roy gordon. dyeing 1 key issues the 2 most important factors in dyeing...

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

Micro Fibre Dyeing

By Roy Gordon

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 1Key Issues

The 2 most important factors in dyeing polyester microfibres.• Build-up properties.• Washfastness.

BUILD-UP

WASHFASTNESS

1 Depth of shade 1/ fibre dpf.Finer fibres need more dye.

2 Dye buildup properties can vary with finer fibres.

DYE & AUXILIARYSELECTION

1 High dye applications needed.2 Washfastness relates to surface

dye. Microfibres have very high surface area.

DYE & AUXILIARYSELECTION

Problems Causes Remedies

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingVarious factors

POTENTIAL PROBLEMS

CAUSES REMEDIES

Dye uptake at lower temperatures. Commence dyeing at lower start temperatures.

LEVEL DYEING Faster dye uptake rate. Use slower rate of temperature rise up to top temperature.

Residues from preparation steps. Use of auxiliaries to level and protect from residues.

Poor penetration of high twist yarns on high density fabric.

Compatible dye combinations.

CREASING & Poor relaxed shrinkage in preparation. Control over the preparation process.CROWS FEET Rapid temperature rise at critical heating

and cooling phases. Use slower rate of temperature rise up to

top temperature. Use of anticrease auxiliaries.

LIGHTFASTNESS High surface area exposed to light. Careful selection of Dyes. Use of UV absorbers to reduce fading.

Microfibre mixed with conventional fibres.

Dye selection

DYE COVERAGE Flat and textured yarns combined. Dyeing process to improve leveling.Filaments of varying cross section. Use of auxiliaries to improve dyeing.

ABRASIONInadequate preparation leaving spin finish, oils, oligomer and WR residues.

Good quality preparation.

MARKS Incorrect machine type. Correct machine type usage. Dyeing lubricant to reduce abrasion.

Dyeing 2

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingMicrofibre Dyeing Process: Takes account of…

Rapid strike and exhaustion on Microfibres.Greater rate and extent of shrinkage.Lower temperature exhaustion and shrinkage,

relative to conventional fibres.

Dyeing 3.Process

Fill @ 50 oCLoad Auxiliaries and pump.Load buffer and dyes.Raise temperature - Rate 1.Raise temperature - Rate 2.Hold at Top Temperature.Cool at Rate 1.Hot rinse @ 90oC Use Rate’s 1 & 2.RC or Wash @ 90-95oC.RinseDrop cold, < 55oC.

Temp

130

110

90

70

50

90oC

70oC

50oC

130oC x 45’

70oC

2o/min

1o/min

2o/min

3o/min

2o/min1o/min

Conventional Microfibre

Rate of r

ise dep

ends o

n the m

achine

liquor i

nterch

ange and dye

type.

Tip : Plait down fabric evenly


NEARGAL HP-MF Dispersant and levelling agent.New Levels without retarding, so perfect for micofibres.

Oligomer dispersant, so minimal WR problems. Proven in yarn package dyeing. ( See later presentation.)

LUBRIFIL LAF Emulsifier, anticrease and compatibiliser. Emulsifies de dusting agents and residual oils. Enhances Heat Setting efficiency. Reduces creasing and abrasion. A problem solver.

Auxiliaries 1

Microfibre Dyeing Auxiliaries: Must take account of....Fibre variations in dpf, cross section, texturising and polymer type.Variations in dye types, helping to balance strike and migration.The inevitable carry-over of residues and contamination into the dye bath.

Dyeing 4.1


NAISTAT 1350 Oil scavenger, anticrease, lubricant, finishing agent.High affinity for polyester allows displacement ofresidual oils from polyester.Powerful lubricity to reduce abrasion and creases.Durable finish; antistat, soil release, soft andhydrophilic.

NEARCHEL TMC High Temperature stable sequesterant.Suitable for preparation and bleaching.Disaggregates dyes for penetration.Powerful metal binding, even at high temperatures.

MATEXIL LN-RD High activity levelling agent.For light or problem shades.Success over Lyogen DMF, Levenol, Sunsalt LM7.

Auxiliaries 2

Dyeing 4.2

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingAuxiliary Solutions

Dyeing 4.3

Problems

Rapid dye uptake rate. (Actually ~ x 4)

Residues from spinning and preparation.

Poor penetration.

Crease problems.

Varying filament dye uptake.

Auxiliary Solutions

Levelling Auxiliary NEARGAL HP-MF NewNEARGAL SD-PE

Emulsifier and Scavenger LUBRIFIL LAFNAISTAT 1350

Oligomer Dispersant NEARGAL HP-MF NewPenetration aid LUBRIFIL LAF

NAISTAT 1350Dye Dispersant NEARGAL DN

Anticrease agent LUBRIFIL LAFNAISTAT 1350

Levelling Auxiliary NEARGAL SD-PENEARGAL HP-MF New

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingAuxiliaries 3

Some Recipes

Basic (For blends or 100% polyester.)

NEARGAL DN 0.5 – 1 g/lLUBRIFIL LAF 2 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE 1 g/l

Problem shades (For 100% polyester.)

NEARGAL DN 0.5 – 1 g/lNEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/lLUBRIFIL LAF 2 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l

Problem fabrics (For 100% polyester.)

NEARGAL DN 0.5 – 1 g/lNAISTAT 1350 2 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE 1.5 g/l

Problem fabrics and shades (For 100% polyester.)

NEARGAL DN 0.5 - 1 g/lNEARGAL HP-MF New 1.5 g/lNAISTAT 1350 2 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l

Dyeing 4.4

Tip : Use high fabric rope speeds (@ 260 m/m)


Microfibre Dye Selection: Must take account of....Compatibility and suitability for the application.

The wash fastness requirements on medium to heavy shades.The rapid buildup and levelling problems on fine fibres.The mixture of fibre type in many microfibres.

Dyeing 5.1Dyes : General

Pales shades B class dyes give :…- the best levelness and coverage.- compatibility in trichromatic shades.

Medium / Heavy C class dyes give :…- good levelness and coverage.- good general compatibility.- all round fastness properties.

All dye variations or incompatibilities are exaggerated when dyeing Microfibres.

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 5.2Buildup

Colour Build-up “rule of thumb” : fine filaments dye light, course filaments dye dark.

Fothergills equation.(in 1944)

C1 W2C2 W1

C1 & C2 = % dye applied. W1 & W2 = DPF of fibrils.

=

Disperse Blue 56 Build-up

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

0% 1% 2% 3% 4% 5% 6% 7%% dye applied

Re

leti

ve

Str

en

gth

5.6 dpf

1.4 dpf

0.57 dpf

This equation does not take account of delustering agents, fibre cross section, orientation or crystallinity, texturing, or finishing agents.

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 5.3

Fastness

Light Fastness “rule of thumb” : reductions of 0.5 to 1.5 point for Micro vs regular fibre.

The high surface area exposes more dye to UV light, thus reducing light fastness.

Testing : Xenotest vs wool standards.ISO 105 B02 InternationalBS 1006 B02 BritishDIN 54004 German

This may restrict dye selection, especially for sportswear.Trevira Finesse Specified @ 5Trevira Micronesse Specified @ 4-5Coolmax Specified @ ??

UV absorbers can be added to the disperse dyebath for the highest standards.


Fastness

Wash Fastness : a constant problem.THE CAUSES ?

• High surface area, means a greater amount of surface dye present.• Weight Reduced fibres have oligomer residues that can reduce fastness.• Weight Reduced fibres have a rough surface that can act as a store for

oligomer and surface dye. • WR on delusted fibres leave pores, that act as reservoirs of surface dye.• Spandex Microfibre may have silicone residues that reduce fastness.

THE REMEDIES ?

• A very effective wash after Weight Reduction is essential.• A very effective high temperature Reduction Clear and wash is essential.• A double Reduction Clear may be required.• Use of wetting, penetrating and dispersing auxiliaries in both WR wash

and RC.


NEARGAL DN High performance dispersing agent for Oligomer and Dye. Proven performance as a machine cleaner and dispersant.

NEARCLEAR VL Powerful wetter, dispersant, emulsifier and detergent. Proven performance in Reduction Clear Lifts surface dye and disperses residues.

Reduction Clear

@ 920C x 20’ NEARGAL DN 0.5 g/lNEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/l

(& when ready to give up, add ..) NEARPON KR 0.3 g/l

The WR process creates a rough semi-porous fibre surface, which can trap large amounts of surface dye. The high surface area alone

creates wash fastness problems for microfibres.


Dyes :

The best dyes to use on polyester are :

Those with Identical Exhaustion RatesEasy clearing dyes : eg

Diester dyes Azo-Thiophene dyes

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingDyeing 6Conjugates :

With certain types of conjugate filament….

The compliment or core polymer fibrils may “grin” throughthe shade, creating a streaky, speckled and uneven look.This mainly occurs where :- the compliment fibril is only shocked (by swelling or physical

cracking) rather than dissolving.- the complimentary fibril is a major part.- the conjugate microfibre is a major component of the fabric.- the nylon component is not structurally covered by polyester.

Regain solidity of shade by overdyeing with acid dyes.

NEARGAL LS-PA with acid dyes.

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingExample 1Light Weight Silk

Pre-steam if possible.Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2% Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 30”.Wash and scour with

NEARFIL FAC 0.3 g/lNEARPON KR 1 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/l

Rinse, and refill.Weight Reduce to calculated %WR.Use accelerant. ~ 1 g/lRinse @ 90 C, then wash @ 95C with

NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/lHot rinse again until neutral.Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/l

NEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE levelling problems.

RC as for WR Washing.

Finish by padding @ 60% PUNEARFINISH M88 20 g/l

Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40”.

Heat Set improverOil Scorch Protector

Silicone & Set oil Scour system

Dispersing and Washing system.

Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering.

Bodied Finish Softener

Desize / Scour & Relax

Pre Heat Set

Weight Reduce

Dye

Finish with Dry Mild Set

Simple Process

Wash off

RC

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingExample 2

Sports Wear - Spandex

Wash, scour and relax withNEARFIL FAC 0.2 g/l NEARPON KR 1 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lLUBRIFIL LAF 1.5 g/l

Rinse, and refill.Pad NAISTAT 1350 @ 2% Dry @ 120oC then Set at 195oC x 1’.

Dye with NEARGAL DN 1 g/lNEARCHEL TMC 0.5 g/lNEARGAL SD-PE leveling problems.

Rinse @ 90 C, then RC @ 90 C with

NEARCLEAR VL 0.5 g/lHot rinse againFinish by exhaust @ 80oC

NAISTAT 1350 4% owf

Dry @ 120oC then Set at 160oC x 40’.

Heat Set improverOil Scorch Protector

Silicone & Set oil Scour system

Dispersing and Washing system.

Dispersing, Levelling and Sequestering.

Soft hydrophIlic, soil releaseantistatic finish.

Desize / Scour & Relax

Pre Heat Set

Dye

Finish with Dry Mild Set

Normal Process

RC

Micro Fibre DyeingMicro Fibre DyeingThe Products The Process The AdvantageNEARFIL FAC Deaeration No foam wetting. LUBRIFIL LAF Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch

Scour & Dye Scour-Dye & Anticrease

NEARPON KR Scour Efficient Cleaning NEARCHEL TMC Scour Removal of soaps

Dyeing Disaggregator NEARCAND LT 75 Setting & Finish Reduce scorching

Bleach White nylonNEARGAL DN Dyeing Dispersant and cleaner.NEARGAL SD-PE Dyeing Dispersant & Leveller NAISTAT 1350 Heat Setting Efficient & Antiscorch

Finishing Hydrophilic, soil release

NEARFINISH CF 511 Finishing Hydrophilic, elastic NEARSOPHT BF100 Finishing Full body cationic. NEARFINISH M88 Finishing Bodied effect.


Thank you

micro fibre dyeing by roy gordon. dyeing 1 key issues the 2 most important factors in dyeing...

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